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7-11
Oil Pan Removal
1. If the engine is already out of the vehicle, go to step 18.
2. Raise the vehicle on the lift.
3. Drain the engine oil (see page 8-10).
4. Remove the front wheels.
5. Remove the splash shield (see step 25 on page 5-5).
6. Separate the stabilizer links (see page 18-25).
7. Separate the knuckles from the lower arms (see step 6 on page 18-21).
8. Remove the steering gearbox bracket. Remove the steering gearbox mounting bolt, the stiffener
mounting bolt, and the stiffener (see step 36 on
page 5-6).
9. Remove the steering gearbox mounting bolt, the stiffener mounting bolt, and the stiffener. Remove
the harness clamp from the front subframe (see
step 38 on page 5-6).
10. A/T model: Remove the bolt securing the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) filter.
11. Install the front leg assembly, the hook, and the wing nut to an A and Reds engine support hanger
(AAR-T1256) onto the 2006 Civic engine hanger
(VSB02C000025). Carefully position the engine
hanger on the vehicle, and attach the hook to the
slotted hole in the support eyelet. Tighten the wing
nut by hand to lift and support the engine/
transmission (see step 47 on page 5-8). 12. Remove the lower torque rod (see step 49 on page
5-8).
13. M/T model: Remove the front mount mounting bolt (see step 50 on page 5-9).
14. Make the appropriate reference line at both sides of the front subframe that line up with the edges on
the body (see step 51 on page 5-9).
15. Loosen the mid-stiffener mounting bolts on both sides(seestep52onpage5-9).
16. Attach the front subframe adapter (VSB02C000016) to the front subframe, and hang the belt of the front
subframe adapter over the front of the subframe.
Secure the belt with its stop, then tighten the wing
nut (see step 53 on page 5-9).
17. Remove the front subframe (see step 55 on page 5-10).
18. Remove the lower torque rod bracket.
(cont’d)
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Page 226 of 2893
7-12Engine Block
Oil Pan Removal (cont’d)
B
A
19. A/T model: Remove the shift cable cover.
20. K20Z2 engine: Remove the torque converter cover/clutch cover. 21. K20Z3 engine: Remove the clutch cover (A) and the
transmission mounting bolts (B).
22. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.
23. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan from the lower block in the places shown.
24. Remove the oil pan.
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Page 227 of 2893
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7-13
Crankshaft and Piston Removal
1. Remove the engine/transmission (see page 5-3).
2. Remove the transmission: Manual transmission (see page 13-7)
Automatic transmission (see page 14-233)
3. M/T model: Remove the pressure plate (see page 12-19), the clutch disc (see page 12-20), and the
flywheel (see page 12-21).
4. A/T model: Remove the drive plate (see page 14-242).
5. Remove the oil pan (see page 7-11).
6. Remove the oil pump (see page 8-16).
7. Remove the cylinder head (see page 6-38).
8. Remove the baffle plates. 9. Remove the 8 mm bolts in sequence.
10. Remove the bearing cap bolts. To prevent warpage, loosen the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time;
repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
(cont’d)
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Page 228 of 2893

7-14Engine Block
Crankshaft and Piston Removal (cont’d)
A
A
B
11. Remove the lower block and the bearings. Keep all the bearings in order.
12. Remove the connecting rod caps/bearing halves. Keep all connecting rod caps/bearing halves in
order.
13. Lift the crankshaft out of the engine. Be careful not to damage the journals.
14. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside with their
respective caps. 15. If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon
around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a
ridge reamer (A). Follow the reamer manufacturer’s
instructions. If the ridge is not removed, it may
damage the pistons as they are pushed out.
16. Use the wooden handle of a hammer (A) to drive out the piston/connecting rod assembly (B).
17. Reinstall the lower block and the bearings on the engine in the proper order.
18. Reinstall the connecting rod bearings and the caps after removing each piston/connecting rod
assembly.
19. Mark each piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number to make sure they are reused in
the original order.
NOTE: The existing number on the connecting rod
does not indicate its position in the engine, it
indicates the rod bore size.
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Page 229 of 2893

Î
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Out-of-Round and Taper
Journal Out-of-Round
Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 in.) max.
Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.)
Journal Taper
Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 in.) max.
Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.) Straightness
Crankshaft Total Runout
Standard (New): 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.) max.
Service Limit: 0.04 mm (0.0016 in.)
7-15
Crankshaft Inspection
1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block(see page 7-13).
2. Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe cleaners or suitable brush.
3. Clean the keyway and the threads, and check for damage.
4. Measure the out-of-round at the middle of each rod and main journal in two places. The difference
between measurements on each journal must not
be more than the service limit.
5. Measure the taper at the edges of each rod and the main journal. The difference between
measurement on each journal must not be more
than the service limit. 6. Place the V-blocks on a flat surface.
7. Check the total runout with the crankshaft
supported on V-blo cks.
8. Measure the runout on all main journals. Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions. The
difference between measurements on each journal
must not be more than the service limit.
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Page 230 of 2893

Î
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µ
µ
µ µ
µµ µ
µ
µ µ
µµ
Piston Skirt Diameter
Standard (New):
No Letter (or A): 85.980 85.990 mm
(3.3850 3.3854 in.)
B: 85.970 85.980 mm (3.3846 3.3850 in.)
Service Limit:
No Letter (or A): 85.930 mm (3.3831 in.)
B: 85.920 mm (3.3827 in.)
Oversize Piston Skirt Diameter
0.25: 86.230 86.240 mm (3.3949 3.3953 in.) Cylinder Bore Size
Standard (New):
A or I: 86.010 86.020 mm
(3.3862 3.3866 in.)
B or II: 86.000 86.010 mm (3.3858 3.3862 in.)
Service Limit: 86.070 mm (3.3886 in.)
Oversize Bore
0.25: 86.250 86.260 mm (3.3957 3.3961 in.)
Reboring Limit: 0.25 mm (0.01 in.) max.
Bore Taper
Limit: (Difference between first and third measurement) 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
7-16Engine Block
Block and Piston Inspection
PISTON SKIRT DIAMETER
11 mm
(0.4 in.) 6mm(0.2in.)
6mm(0.2in.)
X
Y No. 4
No. 1
First Measurement
Second Measurement
Third Measurement
1. Remove the crankshaft and the pistons (see page
7-13).
2. Check the piston for distortion or cracks.
3. Measure the piston skirt diameter at a point 11 mm (0.4 in.) from the bottom of the skirt. There are two
standard-size pistons (No Letter or A, and B). The
letter is stamped on the top of the piston. Letters
are also stamped on the engine block as the
cylinder bore sizes. 4. Measure the wear and taper in direction X and Y at
three levels inside each cylinder as shown. If the
measurements in any cylinder are beyond the
Oversize Bore Service Limit, replace the engine
block. If the engine block is being rebored, refer to
step 7 after reboring.
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Page 231 of 2893
µ
µ
Engine Block Warpage
Standard (New): 0.07 mm (0.003 in.) max.
Service Limit: 0.10 mm (0.004 in.) Piston-to-Cylinder Bore Clearance
Standard (New): 0.020 0.040 mm
(0.0008 0.0016 in.)
Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
7-17
PRECISION STRAIGHT EDGE SERVICE LIMIT
0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
5. Scored or scratched cylinder bores must be honed.
6. Check the top of the engine block for warpage.
Measure along the edges, and across the center as
shown. 7. Calculate the difference between the cylinder bore
diameter and the piston diameter. If the clearance
is near, or exceeds the service limit, inspect the
piston and the cylinder bore for excessive wear.
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Disassembly
7-187-18 Engine Block
Cylinder Bore Honing
Piston, Pin, and Connecting Rod
Replacement
A
60 ° A
B
A
Only a scored or scratched cylinder bore must be honed. 1. Measure the cylinder bores (see page 7-16). If the engine block is to be reused, hone the
cylinders, and remeasure the bores.
2. K20Z3 engine: Remove the oil jets (see page 8-13).
3. Hone the cylinder bores with honing oil and a fine (400 grit) stone in a 60 degree cross-hatch pattern
(A). Use only a rigid hone with 400 grit or finer
stone such as Sunnen, Ammco, or equivalent. Do
not use stones that are worn or broken.
4. When honing is complete, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal particles. Wash the
cylinder bores with hot soapy water, then dry and
oil them immediately to prevent rusting. Never use
solvent, it will only redistribute the grit on the
cylinder walls.
5. If scoring or scratches are still present in the cylinder bores after honing the engine block to the
service limit, rebore the engine block. Some light
vertical scoring and scratching is acceptable if it is
not deep enough to catch your fingernail, and does
not run the full length of the bore.
6. K20Z3 engine: Install the oil jets (see page 8-13). 1. Remove the piston from the engine block (see page
7-13).
2. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings (A), and turn them in the ring grooves until the end
gaps are lined up with the cutouts in the piston pin
bores (B).
NOTE: Take care not to damage the ring grooves.
3. Remove both snap rings (A). Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings
carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear
eye protection.
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