Page 1425 of 2889

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(3) Remove the clutch cover and disc (if manual
transmission equipped) (Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/
CLUTCH DISC - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
(5) Drill holes 180É apart into the seal. Be careful
not to contact the drill against the crankshaft.
(6) Install #10 sheet metal screws in the drilled
holes and remove the rear seal with a slide hammer
(Fig. 108).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
(1) Clean the crankshaft journal with a suitable
solvent and dry with a clean shop towel or com-
pressed air. Wipe the inside bore of the crankshaft
seal retainer with a clean shop towel.
(2) Inspect the crankshaft journal for gouges,
nicks, or other imperfections. If the seal groove in the
crankshaft is excessively deep, install the new seal
1/8º deeper into the retainer bore, or obtain a crank-shaft wear sleeve that is available in the aftermar-
ket.
(3) Install the seal pilot, provided in the replace-
ment kit, onto the crankshaft.
(4) Using the provided alignment/installation tool,
start the seal over the pilot and into the retainer by
hand.
(5) Using a ball peen hammer, strike the tool at
the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions until the align-
ment tool bottoms out on the retainer (Fig. 109).
(6) Remove the seal pilot.
(7) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten the bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect battery negative cables.
(12) Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
(13) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
Fig. 108 Crankshaft Rear Seal Removal
1 - NO. 10 SCREW
2 - REAR SEAL
3 - CRANKSHAFT
4 - SLIDE HAMMER
Fig. 109 Seal Installation Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
9 - 278 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELBR/BE
Page 1426 of 2889

(3) Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil. Re-install plug and torque to 60 N´m (44
ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
(5) Remove flywheel or torque converter drive
plate.
(6) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(8) Disconnect cables from starter motor.
(9) Remove the eight flywheel housing to block
bolts and remove housing and starter motor as an
assembly.
(10) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(11) Remove oil pan and suction tube (Fig. 110)
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL).
(12) Remove the six (6) retainer-to-block bolts (Fig.
111).
(13) Remove the rear seal retainer and gasket
(Fig. 111).
(14) Support the seal retainer and drive out the
crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
(1) If using the old seal retainer, it is recom-
mended that the crankshaft seal is replaced. Support
the seal retainer and drive out the old seal.
(2) Using the retainer alignment/seal installation
tool provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block (Fig. 112), using a new gasket. Tighten the six
(6) mounting bolts by hand.
(3) Starting with the center two bolts, tighten the
retainer in a circular pattern to 9 N´m (80 in. lbs.).
Remove the alignment tool.
Fig. 110 Oil Pan, Suction Tube and Gasket
1 - GASKET
2 - SUCTION TUBE
3 - OIL PAN
Fig. 111 Crankshaft Rear Seal Retainer and Gasket
1 - RETAINER
2 - GASKET
3 - BOLT
Fig. 112 Aligning Seal Retainer with Alignment/
Installation Tool
1 - ALIGNMENT / INSTALLATION TOOL
2 - SEAL RETAINER
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 279
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)
Page 1427 of 2889

CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on outside
diameter of seal to ease assembly.
(4) Make sure the provided seal pilot is installed
into the new crankshaft seal. Use the alignment/in-
stallation tool and press the seal onto the crankshaft
(Fig. 113). Alternately drive the seal at the 12, 3, 6
and 9 o'clock positions.
(5) Remove the alignment tool and trim the
retainer gasket even with the oil pan mounting sur-
face (Fig. 114).
(6) Remove the seal pilot.
(7) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the oil pan rail T-joints.
(8) Install the oil pan, suction tube and gaskets
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Tighten
the bolts to 60 N´m (44 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10)
Install the starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.)
(12) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(13) Lower vehicle.
(14) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(15) Connect the battery negative cables.
(16) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
SOLID LIFTERS/TAPPETS
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure requires use of Miller Tool
8502 Tappet Replacement Kit, or Cummins Tool Kit
#3822513.
(1) Remove camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK) - REMOVAL).
(2) Insert the trough (provided with tool kit) the
full length of the camshaft bore (Fig. 115). Make sure
the cap end goes in first and the open side faces up
(towards tappets).
Fig. 115 Inserting the Trough
1 - TROUGH
Fig. 113 Installing Seal Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 114 Trimming Excess Gasket Material
1 - GASKET
9 - 280 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELBR/BE
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)
Page 1428 of 2889

(3)Remove only one tappet at a time.Remove
rubber band from one cylinder pair and attach tappet
dowel not being removed to the next cylinder pair
(Fig. 116).
(4) Raise dowel rod (disengage from tappet) and
allow tappet to fall into trough (Fig. 117).
(5) Carefully remove trough(do not rotate)and
tappet. If the tappet is not being replaced, mark it so
it can be installed in its original location.
(6) Re-install trough and repeat procedure on
remaining tappets.
CLEANING
Clean tappet with a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot
water and blow dry with a clean shop rag or com-
pressed air.
INSPECTION
(1) Visually inspect the tappet the tappet socket,
stem, and face for excessive wear, cracks, or obvious
damage (Fig. 118).
(2) Measure the tappet stem diameter. Replace the
tappet if it falls below the minimum size (Fig. 118).
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert the trough the full length of the cam-
shaft bore (Fig. 115). Again, make sure the cap end
goes in first and the open side faces up (towards tap-
pets).
(2) Lower the tappet installation tool through the
push rod hole (Fig. 119) and into the trough.
(3) Retrieve the tappet installation tool using the
hooked rod provided with the tool kit (Fig. 120).
(4) Lubricate the tappet with clean engine oil or
suitable equivalent and install the tappet to the
installation tool (Fig. 121).
(5) Pull the tappet up and into position (Fig. 121).
If difficulty is experienced getting the tappet to make
the turn into the tappet bore, wiggle the trough
whilegentlypulling up on the tappet.
(6) With the tappet in place, rotate the trough one
half turn so the open side is down (toward crank-
shaft) (Fig. 122).
Fig. 116 Secure Dowel/Tappet to Adjacent Cylinder
Fig. 117 Lift Dowel Rod to Disengage from Tappet
Fig. 118 Tappet Inspection
TAPPET STEM DIAMETER
15.925 mm (0.627 in.) MIN.
15.977 mm (0.629 in.) MAX.
Fig. 119 Insert Installation Tool through Push Rod
Hole
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 281
SOLID LIFTERS/TAPPETS (Continued)
Page 1429 of 2889

(7) Remove the tappet installation tool from the
tappet.
(8) Re-install a dowel rod and secure the rod with
a rubber band.
(9) Rotate the trough one half turn and repeat the
procedure for the remaining tappets.
(10) Install the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK) - INSTALLATION).
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
The piston (Fig. 123) is constructed of aluminum
and is gravity cast, free floating design. The piston
incorporates a centrally located high swirl combus-
tion bowl, and utilizes a ªkeystoneº style top com-
pression ring (Fig. 124), and a ªTapered Faceº
intermediate ring (Fig. 124), for superior cylinder
wall scraping. Piston cooling nozzles cool the pistonand pin with engine oil supplied by the crankshaft
main journals.
The connecting rods (Fig. 125) are a split angle
design constructed of micro alloy. The rods have a
pressed in place wrist pin bushing which is lubri-
cated by the piston cooling nozzle oil spray.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐPISTON GRADING
²When rebuilding an engine with the original cylin-
der block, crankshaft and pistons, make sure the pis-
tons are installed in their original cylinder.
²If replacing the piston(s), make sure the replace-
ment piston(s) are the same grade as the one being
replaced.
Fig. 120 Retrieve Tappet Installation Tool through
Cam Bore
Fig. 121 Insert Tool and Pull Tappet Into Place
Fig. 122 Rotate Trough One Half Turn (180É)
Fig. 123 Piston
9 - 282 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELBR/BE
SOLID LIFTERS/TAPPETS (Continued)
Page 1430 of 2889

²If a new cylinder block and/or crankshaft is used,
the piston grading procedureMUST
be performed to
determine the proper piston grade for each cylinder.
(1) Install any of the original connecting rod and
piston assemblies into the No.1 cylinder. DO NOT
install the piston rings.
(2) Install the upper bearing shell in the connect-
ing rod with the tang of the bearing in the slot of the
connecting rod. The connecting rod bearing shell
must be installed in the original connecting rod and
cap. Use clean lubricating oil to coat the inside diam-
eter of the connecting rod bearing shell.
(3) Install the bearing shell in the connecting rod
cap with the tang of the bearing in the slot to the
cap. Use clean lubricating oil to coat the inside diam-
eter of the bearing shell.(4) The four digit number stamped on the connect-
ing rod and cap at the parting line must match and
be installed on the oil cooler side of the engine.
Install the connecting rod cap and cap screws.
Tighten the cap screws to 35 N´m (26 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Use a fine grit stone to remove any burrs from
the cylinder block head deck. Zero the dial indicator
to the cylinder block head deck.
(6) Move the dial indicator directly over the piston
pin to eliminate any side-to-side movement.
(7) Rotate the crankshaft to top dead center
(TDC). Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and counter-
clockwise to find the highest dial indicator reading.
Record the reading.
(8)
Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly
from the No.1 cylinder and install the assembly into the
No.2 cylinder. Repeat the procedure for every cylinder
using the same piston and connecting rod assembly.
(9)Determine the grade of the piston being used by
referring to the Piston Protrusion Chart below. Four
digits on top of the piston can be cross referenced to a
DaimlerChrysler part number for replacement (Fig.
126). If the number on the piston cannot be seen, mea-
sure from the top of the piston to the top of the piston
pin to see what grade piston is used (Fig. 127).
NOTE: NEVER INTERMIX PISTONS FROM ONE
ENGINE APPLICATION TO ANOTHER ENGINE
APPLICATION. SEVER DRIVEABILITY CONCERNS
MAY RESULT.
Fig. 124 Piston Ring Identification
Fig. 125 Connecting RodFig. 126 Piston Grading Number Location
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 283
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)
Page 1431 of 2889
PISTON PROTRUSION CHART
IF MEASURING PISTON IS AND USE
GRADING #: PROTRUSION IS GRADE:
245 HP 235 HP
6050 61530.609-0.711 mm
A
(0.024-0.028 in.)
6050 61530.508-0.609mm
B
(0.020-0.024 in.)
6050 61530.406-0.508 mm
C
(0.016-0.020 in.)
6051 61540.711-0.813 mm
A
(0.028-0.032 in.)
6051 61540.609-0.711 mm
B
(0.024-0.028 in.)
6051 61540.508-0.609 mm
C
(0.020-0.024 in.)
6052 61550.813-0.914 mm
A
(0.032-0.036 in.)
6052 61550.711-0.813 mm
B
(0.028-0.032 in.)
6052 61550.609-0.711 mm
C
(0.024-0.028 in.)
NOTE: Use the table below when piston grading
numbers are missing or not legible.
ALTERNATIVE GRADE IDENTIFICATION METHOD
DIMENSION(A(REF. NUMBER GRADE
235 HP 245 HP
51.554-51.607 mm
6153 6050 A
(2.029-2.031 in.)
51.654-51.707 mm
6154 6051 B
(2.033-2.035 in.)
51.754-51.807 mm
6155 6052 C
(2.037-2.039 in.)
9 - 284 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELBR/BE
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)
Page 1432 of 2889

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery cables.
(2) Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pan and suction tube (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(4) Using Miller Tool 7471-B crankshaft barring
tool, rotate the crankshaft so all of the pistons are
below TDC.
(5) Before removing the piston(s) from the bore(s):
(a) Remove any carbon ridge formations or
deposits at the top of the bore with a dull scraper
or soft wire brush.
(b) If cylinder bore wear ridges are found, use a
ridge reamer to cut the ridge from the bore. DO
NOT remove more metal than necessary to remove
the ridge.
NOTE: If cylinders have ridges, the cylinders are
oversize and will more than likely need boring.
(6) Using a hammer and steel stamp, identify the
front of the piston by stamping the cylinder number
in each piston to be removed at the top of the piston
toward the front of the engine. DO NOT stamp in the
outside 5 mm (.197 in.) of the piston diameter.(7) Mark the connecting rod and cap with the cor-
responding cylinder numbers.
(8) Remove the connecting rod bolts and rod caps.
Use care so the cylinder bores and connecting rods
are not damaged.
(9) Use a hammer handle or similar object to push
the piston and connecting rod through the cylinder
bore.
(10) Store the piston/rod assemblies in a rack.
(11) If a piston must be replaced, replace with the
same part number (grading) that was removed.
CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use bead blast to clean the pis-
tons. DO NOT clean the pistons and rods in an acid
tank.
Clean the pistons and pins in a suitable solvent,
rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air.
Soaking the pistons over night will loosen most of the
carbon build up. De-carbon the ring grooves with a
broken piston ring and again clean the pistons in sol-
vent. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with com-
pressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect the pistons for damage and excessive wear.
Check top of the piston, ring grooves, skirt and pin
bore. Measure the piston skirt diameter (Fig. 128). If
the piston is out of limits, replace the piston.
The upper groove only needs to be inspected for
damage. Use a new piston ring to measure the clear-
ance in the intermediate ring groove (Fig. 129). If the
clearance of the intermediate ring exceeds 0.095 mm
(0.0038 inch), replace the piston.
Use a new oil ring to measure the clearance in the
oil groove (Fig. 129). If the clearance exceeds 0.085
mm (0.0034 inch), replace the piston.
Measure the pin bore (Fig. 130). The maximum
diameter is 40.012 mm (1.5753 inch). If the bore is
over limits, replace the piston.
Inspect the piston pin for nicks, gouges and exces-
sive wear. Measure the pin diameter (Fig. 131). The
minimum diameter is 39.990 mm (1.5744 inch). If the
diameter is out of limits, replace the pin.
Fig. 127 Piston Grading Measurement
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 285
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)