1989 FORD FIESTA Service Repair Manual

Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul , and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance and minor repair
tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
M Combination spanners: 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13,
14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 21, 22, 24 & 26 mm
M Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)
M Engine sump/gearbox drain plug key
(where applicable)
M Set of feeler gauges
M Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert)
M Spark plug gap adjustment tool
M Brake bleed nipple spanner
M Screwdrivers: Flat blade and cross blade –
approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
M Combination pliers
M Hacksaw (junior)
M Tyre pump
M Tyre pressure gauge
M Grease gun
M Oil can
M Oil filter removal tool
M Fine emery cloth
M Wire brush (small)
M Funnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repair list.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you
cannot afford a socket set, even bought
piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box
spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need
to be supplemented by tools from the Special
list:
M Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)
M Reversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets) (see illustration)
M Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
M Universal joint (for use with sockets)
M Torque wrench (for use with sockets)
M Self-locking grips
M Ball pein hammer
M Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
M Screwdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
M Pliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
M Cold chisel - 25 mm
M Scriber
M Scraper
M Centre-punch
M Pin punch
M Hacksaw
M Brake hose clamp
M Brake bleeding kit
M Selection of twist drills M
Steel rule/straight-edge
M Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (see
illustrations)
M Selection of files
M Wire brush
M Axle stands
M Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
M Light with extension lead
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates. The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references
to these manufacturers’ special tools in the
text of this manual. Generally, an alternative
method of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a franchised
garage.
M Valve spring compressor (see illustration)
M Valve grinding tool
M Piston ring compressor (see illustration)
M Piston ring removal/installation tool (see
illustration)
M Cylinder bore hone (see illustration)
M Balljoint separator
M Coil spring compressors (where applicable)
M Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller
(see illustration)
Sockets and reversible ratchet driveSpline bit set
Tools and working facilities REF•7
REF
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Spline key setValve spring compressor Piston ring compressor
Compression testing gauge Clutch plate alignment setBrake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
Piston ring removal/installation tool
Cylinder bore honeThree-legged hub and bearing puller
Micrometer set
Vernier calipersDial test indicator and magnetic stand
1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
REF•8Tools and working facilities
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MImpact screwdriver
M Micrometer and/or vernier calipers (see
illustrations)
M Dial gauge (see illustration)
M Universal electrical multi-meter
M Cylinder compression gauge
(see illustration)
M Clutch plate alignment set (see
illustration)
M Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
(see illustration)
M Bush and bearing removal/installation set
(see illustration)
M Stud extractors (see illustration)
M Tap and die set (see illustration)
M Lifting tackle
M Trolley jack
Buying tools
For practically all tools, a tool factor is the
best source, since he will have a very
comprehensive range compared with the
average garage or accessory shop. Having
said that, accessory shops often offer
excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it
pays to shop around. Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to
purchase items which meet the relevant
national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the
proprietor or manager of the shop for advice
before making a purchase.
Care and maintenance of tools
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked,
and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good serviceable
finish.
Working facilities
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out,
some form of suitable working area becomes
essential.
It is appreciated that many an owner-
mechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice; one with a
jaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for most
jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean
dry storage space is also required for tools, as
well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids,
touch-up paints and so on, which become
necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Last, but not least, always keep a supply of
old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.
Bush and bearing removal/installation set Stud extractor setTap and die set
1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
Tools and working facilitiesREF•9
REF
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
REF•10MOT test checks
This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.
Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standar d as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
befor e submitting the vehicle for the test.
Wher e a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester
has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discr etion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.
It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements her e,
based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards ar e becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Hay\
nes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).
An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.
The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:
HandbrakeM Test the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorr ect brake or cable adjustment.
M Check that the handbrake cannot be
r eleased by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.
Footbrake
M Depr ess the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
r esistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary . If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
r emoved by bleeding. M
Check that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
M Check the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.
Steering wheel and column
M Examine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.
M Move the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right.
M Check that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormal movement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or
couplings.
W
indscreen and mirrors
M The windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secur e, intact, and capable of being adjusted.
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT
1Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
MOT test checksREF•11
REF
Seat belts and seats
Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
M Examine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
fr om inside the vehicle.
M The front seats themselves must be
secur ely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
M Both front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
V ehicle identification
M Number plates must be in good condition,
secur e and legible, with letters and numbers
corr ectly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).
M The VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.
Electrical equipment
M Switch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
M Check the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.
M Check the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
M Check the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
M Switch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
war ning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
r ear light cluster.
M Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
Footbrake
M Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corr osion or other damage.
M The fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper ( A) and
lower ( B) markings. M
Inspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber . Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
Steering and suspension
M Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
fr om side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
M Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
mor e vigorously in each direction, so that the
r oadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
M Check that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
M Depr ess each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
REF•12MOT test checks
Exhaust system
MStart the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entir e system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering mechanism
M Have your assistant turn the steering fr om
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly , and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
M Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stif fness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings
M Starting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
fr ee play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
M Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
r oughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.
M If excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
r etaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).
M Carry out all the above checks at the other
fr ont wheel, and then at both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
M Examine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
M If coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
M If leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles. M
The same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensur e that all mountings and attachments are
secur e, that there are no signs of excessive
wear , corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that ther e are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
M Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
M Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Braking system
M If possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively , (A) and that the discs are not
fractur ed, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
M Examine all the rigid brake pipes
under neath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
M Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
r enew leaking components.
M Slowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN
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1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
MOT test checksREF•13
REF
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
M It is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check that the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
M Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free fr om
leaks.
M Examine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
M Examine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and pr
operly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
M Check that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressur es
ar e correct.
M Check the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
fr ont wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
M Check the condition of the entire vehicle
structur e for signs of corrosion in load-bearing
ar eas. (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
pr ofessional repairs are likely to be needed.
M Damage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
M Have the engine at normal operating
temperatur e, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
M Befor e any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow the engine speed to return to idle, and watch
for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unbur nt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carbur ettor or fuel system fault).
M An exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydr ocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
M At the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
Fr om January 1996 a much tighter limit
(ar ound 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
pr oblem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsM With the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;
if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this
counts as a pass.
M Excessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
M The only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density . The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM
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The vehicle owner who does his or her own
maintenance according to the recommended
service schedules should not have to use this
section of the manual very often. Modern
component reliability is such that, provided
those items subject to wear or deterioration
are inspected or renewed at the specified
intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of
sudden failure, but develop over a period of
time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic
symptoms over hundreds or even thousands
of miles. Those components which do
occasionally fail without warning are often
small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to
decide where to begin investigations.
Sometimes this is obvious, but on other
occasions, a little detective work will be
necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in curing a
fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the
wiser if the fault recurs, and ultimately may
have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will
be found to be more satisfactory in the long
run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been
noticed in the period preceding the fault -
power loss, high or low gauge readings,
unusual smells, etc - and remember that
Engine
m
m
Engine backfires
m
m Engine difficult to start when cold
m
m Engine difficult to start when hot
m
m Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m
m Engine hesitates on acceleration
m
m Engine idles erratically
m
m Engine lacks power
m
m Engine misfires at idle speed
m
m Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m
m Engine noises
m
m Engine rotates, but will not start
m
m Engine runs-on after switching off
m
m Engine stalls
m
m Engine starts, but stops immediately
m
m Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m
m Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
Cooling system
m
mCorrosion
m
m External coolant leakage
m
m Internal coolant leakage
m
m Overcooling
m
m Overheating
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m
m Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
m
m Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
Clutch
m
mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m
m Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m m Judder as clutch is engaged
m
m Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
m
m Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
Manual transmission
m
mJumps out of gear
m
m Lubricant leaks
m
m Noisy in neutral with engine running
m
m Noisy in one particular gear
m
m Vibration
Automatic transmission
m
mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m m Fluid leakage
m
m General gear selection problems
m
m Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m
m Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
m m Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m
m Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m
m Brakes binding
m
m Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m
m Excessive brake pedal travel
m
m Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m
m Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m
m Rear wheels locking under normal braking
m
m Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m m Excessive play in steering
m
m Excessively-stiff steering
m
m Lack of power assistance
m
m Tyre wear excessive
m
m Vehicle pulls to one side
m
m Wandering or general instability
m
m Wheel wobble and vibration
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m
m Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m
m Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m
m Ignition warning light fails to come on
m
m Ignition warning light remains illuminated with engine running
m
m Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m
m Lights inoperative
m
m Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m m Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
REF•14Fault finding
1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
Introduction
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