1989 FORD FIESTA gas type

connections - remake the connections or
renew the leads if a fault is found. Use the
same techniques to ensure that all earth
points in the engine compartment provide
good electrical contact through clean, metal-
to-metal joints, and that all are securely
fastened. (In addition to the earth connection
at the engine lifting eye, and that from the
transmission to the body/battery, there are
others in various places, so check carefully).
8Refer to Section 21 for details of spark plug
(HT) lead checks.
7 Valve clearance adjustment
2
Refer to Chapter 2, Part A.
8 Manual transmission oil level check
1
1The manual transmission does not have a
dipstick. To check the oil level, raise the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands,
making sure that the vehicle is level. On the
lower front side of the transmission housing,
you will see the filler/level plug. Unscrew and
remove it - an Allen key or bit will probably be
required (see illustration) .
2 With the plug removed, check the oil level.
To do this accurately, make up an oil level
check dipstick from a short length of welding
rod or similar material. Make a 90º bend in the
rod, then mark the downward leg in 5 mm
increments. The dipstick is then inserted
through the filler plug orifice so that the
unmarked leg rests flat on the plug orifice
threads, with the marked leg dipped in the oil.
Withdraw the dipstick and read off the level of
oil.
3 The oil level must be maintained between 0
and 5 mm below the lower edge of the
filler/level plug hole. Top up (if necessary),
using fresh transmission oil of the specified
type and using a syringe, or a plastic bottle
and tube. Refit and tighten the filler/level plug
to the specified torque on completion. 4
The need for regular topping-up can only
be due to a leak, which should be found and
rectified without delay.
5 Regular oil changing is not specified by the
manufacturer’s, but the oil can be drained, if
required, by removing the selector shaft cap
nut and locking assembly.
9 Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment
4
General
1Many of the engines fitted to Fiesta models
are equipped with fuel injection systems of
one sort or another which are entirely
controlled by the engine management system.
On most of these vehicles, it isn’t possible to
make any adjustments to the idle speed or the
mixture settings without specialist test
equipment of a type usually only found at a
Ford dealer or fuel injection specialist.
However, the very nature of these highly-
sophisticated systems means they don’t go
out of tune very often (if ever), so that it’s one
less maintenance operation to worry about.
2 On carburettor engines and 1.6 litre EFi fuel
injection engines, certain checks and
adjustments are necessary as part of the
service requirements, and these are described
below.
Idle speed and mixture check
and adjustment - carburettor
engines
Note: Later carburettors are fitted with
tamperproof mixture adjusting screws,
consisting of a hexagon-shaped socket with a
pin in the centre. Such screws require the use
of Ford service tool 23-032 to alter their
settings; if this tool (or a suitable equivalent) is
not available, the CO level will have to be
checked, and any necessary adjustment will
have to be made, by a Ford dealer.
3 Before carrying out the following checks
and adjustments, ensure that the spark plugs
are in good condition and correctly gapped
(Section 21). To carry out the checks/adjustments, an accurate tachometer
and an exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will
be required.
4
Make sure that all electrical components
are switched off during the following
procedures.
5 Connect a tachometer to the engine in
accordance with its manufacturer’s
instructions, and insert the probe of an
exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) into the
exhaust tailpipe. As previously mentioned,
these items are essential in obtaining an
accurate setting. If they are not available, an
approximate check/adjustment can be made
as a temporary measure, providing they are
further checked out as soon as is possible
using a tachometer and a CO meter (or by a
Ford dealer).
6 Run the engine at a fast idle speed until it
reaches its normal operating temperature and
the radiator cooling fan cuts in. Turn the
engine off, then disconnect the radiator
cooling fan lead at the thermostatic switch
connector. Now connect a temporary wire to
the fan switch multi-plug, as shown (see
illustration) to enable the fan to operate
continuously during the following checks and
adjustments (if this is specified). Take care to
keep clear of the fan during the following
operations when working in the engine
compartment.
7 Where fitted, disconnect the throttle kicker
vacuum pipe, and plug the end. To identify
the throttle kicker unit, refer to Chapter 4A.
8 Check that the vehicle lighting and other
electrical loadings (apart from the radiator
cooling fan) are switched off, then restart the
engine. Increase the engine speed to 3000 rpm
for 30 seconds, and repeat this at three-minute
intervals during the check/adjustment
procedures. This will ensure that any excess
fuel is cleared from the inlet manifold.
9 Ensure that the throttle is fully released, allow
the meters to stabilise for a period of 5 to
30 seconds is normally sufficient, then check
the idle speed against that specified. If adjust-
ment is necessary, turn the idle speed
adjusting screw until the engine is idling at the
specified speed (see illustrations) . Any checks
and adjustments must be completed within
30 seconds of the meters stabilising.
1•14Every 10 000 miles or 12 months
9.9a Idle speed adjusting screw (A) and
mixture adjusting screw (B) (Weber TLM
carburettor)9.6 Cooling fan thermostatic switch multi-plug with temporary bridging wire
connected8.1 Manual transmission oil level/filler
plug (A), and selector shaft cap nut (B)
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point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where
unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is
not available, raise and support the vehicle on
axle stands.
2Check the pipes and connections for
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
rubber mountings are in good condition, and
tight; if any of the mountings are to be
renewed, ensure that the replacements are of
the correct type (see illustration) . Leakage at
any of the joints or in other parts of the system
will usually show up as a black sooty stain in
the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants
should not be used on any part of the exhaust
system upstream of the catalytic converter -
even if the sealant does not contain additives
harmful to the converter, pieces of it may
break off and foul the element, causing local
overheating.
3 At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc, which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4 Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
rubber mountings. Try to move the system,
silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any
components can touch the body or
suspension parts, secure the exhaust system
with new mountings.
5 Check the running condition of the engine
by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe;
the exhaust deposits here are an indication
of the engine’s state of tune. The inside of the
tailpipe should be dry, and should vary in
colour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if it
is black and sooty, or coated with white
deposits, the engine is in need of a thorough
fuel system inspection.
13 Underbody and fuel/brake line check
1
1With the vehicle raised and supported on
axle stands or over an inspection pit,
thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel
arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In
particular, examine the bottom of the side
sills, and any concealed areas where mud can
collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident,
press and tap firmly on the panel with a
screwdriver, and check for any serious
corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If
the panel is not seriously corroded, clean
away the rust, and apply a new coating of
underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more
details of body repairs.
2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coated
lower body panels for stone damage and
general condition.
3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the
underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and
leakage. Also make sure that they are correctly supported in their clips. Where
applicable, check the PVC coating on the
lines for damage.
14 Brake check
2
Note:
For detailed photographs of the brake
system, refer to Chapter 9.
1 The work described in this Section should
be carried out at the specified intervals, or
whenever a defect is suspected in the braking
system. Any of the following symptoms could
indicate a potential brake system defect:
a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the brake pedal is depressed.
b) The brakes make scraping or dragging
noises when applied.
c) Brake pedal travel is excessive.
d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-
up.
2 A thorough inspection should be made to
confirm the thickness of the linings, as
follows.
Front brakes
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
4 For better access to the brake calipers,
remove the wheels.
5 Look through the inspection window in the
caliper, and check that the thickness of the
friction lining material on each of the pads is
not less than the recommended minimum
thickness given in the Specifications. Note:
Bear in mind that the lining material is normally
bonded to a metal backing plate.
6 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all
concerned about the condition of the pads,
then remove them from the calipers for further
inspection (refer to Chapter 9).
7 Check the remaining brake caliper in the
same way.
8 If any one of the brake pads has worn down to, or below, the specified limit,
all fourpads
must be renewed as a set.
9 Measure the thickness of the discs with a
micrometer, if available, to make sure that they
still have service life remaining. If any disc is
thinner than the specified minimum thickness,
renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any case,
check the general condition of the discs. Look
for excessive scoring and discolouration
caused by overheating. If these conditions
exist, remove the relevant disc and have it
resurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9).
10 Before refitting the wheels and lowering
the car, check all brake lines and hoses (refer
to Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexible
hoses in the vicinity of the calipers, where
they are subjected to most movement. Bend
them between the fingers (but do not actually
bend them double, or the casing may be
damaged) and check that this does not reveal
previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits.
Rear brakes
11 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
12 For better access, remove the rear
wheels.
13 To check the brake shoe lining thickness
without removing the brake drums, prise the
rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an
electric torch and mirror to inspect the linings
of the leading brake shoes. Check that the
thickness of the lining material on the brake
shoes is not less than the recommendation
given in the Specifications.
14 If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the brake shoe linings, or if you
are at all concerned about the condition of the
shoes, then remove the rear drums for a more
comprehensive inspection (refer to Chap-
ter 9).
15 With the drum removed, check the shoe
return and hold-down springs for correct
installation, and check the wheel cylinders for
leakage of brake fluid. Check the friction
surface of the brake drums for scoring and
discoloration. If excessive, the drum should
be resurfaced or renewed.
16 Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). On
completion, apply the handbrake and check
that the rear wheels are locked. The
handbrake also requires periodic adjustment,
and if its travel seems excessive, refer to
Section 27.
15 Roadwheel nut tightness check
1
1Apply the handbrake.
2 Remove the wheel covers, using the flat
end of the wheelbrace supplied in the tool kit
(on some models it will be necessary to
unscrew the retaining bolts with a special
key).
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months1•17
12.2 Ensure that the exhaust system
rubber mountings replacements are of the correct type - their colour is a good guide. Those nearest to the catalytic converterare more heat-resistant than the others
1
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the corrosion which would otherwise occur
as the corrosion inhibitors become progress-
ively less effective. Always use an ethylene
glycol-based antifreeze which is suitable for
use in mixed-metal cooling systems.
20If the antifreeze used is to Ford’s
specification, the levels of protection it affords
are indicated in the Specifications Section of
this Chapter. To give the recommended
standard mixture ratio for this antifreeze, 40%
(by volume) of antifreeze must be mixed with
60% of clean, soft water; if you are using any
other type of antifreeze, follow its
manufacturer’s instructions to achieve the
correct ratio. It is best to make up slightly
more than the system’s specified capacity, so
that a supply is available for subsequent
topping-up.
21 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for
condition and security. As noted earlier, fresh
antifreeze will rapidly find any weaknesses in
the system.
22 After filling with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank, stating the
type and concentration of antifreeze used,
and the date installed. Any subsequent
topping-up should be made with the same
type and concentration of antifreeze. If
topping-up using antifreeze to Ford’s
specification, note that a 50/50 mixture is
permissible, purely for convenience.
23 Do not use engine antifreeze in the
windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will
damage the vehicle’s paintwork. A
screenwash additive should be added to the
washer system in its maker’s recommended
quantities.
Antifreeze - notes on renewal
24 Ford state that, where antifreeze to Ford
specification ESD-M97B-49-A is used, it will
last the lifetime of the vehicle. This is subject
to it being used in the recommended
concentration, unmixed with any other type of
antifreeze or additive, and topped-up when
necessary using only that antifreeze mixed 50/50 with clean water. If any other type of
antifreeze is added, the lifetime guarantee no
longer applies; to restore the lifetime
protection, the system must be drained and
thoroughly reverse-flushed before fresh
coolant mixture is poured in.
25
If the vehicle’s history (and therefore the
quality of the antifreeze in it) is unknown,
owners who wish to follow Ford’s
recommendations are advised to drain and
thoroughly reverse-flush the system before
refilling with fresh coolant mixture. If the
appropriate quality of antifreeze is used, the
coolant can then be left for the life of the
vehicle.
26 If any antifreeze other than Ford’s is to be
used, the coolant must be renewed at regular
intervals to provide an equivalent degree of
protection; the conventional recommendation
is to renew the coolant every two or three
years.
27 The above assumes the use of a mixture
(in exactly the specified concentration) of
clean, soft water and of antifreeze to Ford’s
specification or equivalent. It is also assumed
that the cooling system is maintained in a
scrupulously-clean condition, by ensuring that
only clean coolant is added on topping-up,
and by thorough reverse-flushing whenever
the coolant is drained.
General cooling system checks
28 The engine should be cold for the cooling
system checks, so perform the following
procedure before driving the vehicle, or
after it has been shut off for at least three
hours.
29 Remove the expansion tank filler cap, and
clean it thoroughly inside and out with a rag.
Also clean the filler neck on the expansion
tank. The presence of rust or corrosion in the
filler neck indicates that the coolant should be
changed. The coolant inside the expansion
tank should be relatively clean and
transparent. If it is rust-coloured, drain and
flush the system, and refill with a fresh coolant
mixture.
30 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length; renew
any hose which is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated (see Section 5).
31
Inspect all other cooling system
components (joint faces, etc.) for leaks. A leak
in the cooling system will usually show up as
white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area
adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this
nature are found on system components,
renew the component or gasket with
reference to Chapter 3.
32 Clean the front of the radiator with a soft
brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc,
embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not
to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers
on them.
24 Air cleaner element renewal
1
1 The air cleaner filter element is located in
the air cleaner assembly mounted either on
top of the carburettor or CFi unit, or on the
left-hand or right-hand side of the engine
compartment at the front. Remove the air
cleaner lid as follows according to type.
Carburettor and CFi fuel
injection models
2 Undo the two or three retaining screws on
the top of the air cleaner lid (see illustration).
3 Release the clips, and lift off the air cleaner
cover (see illustration) .
EFi fuel injection models
4If the idle speed control valve is
mounted on the air cleaner, disconnect the
multi-plug and the air bypass hose from the
valve.
5 Disconnect the flexible hose between the
air cleaner lid and the air inlet duct or
turbocharger air intake.
6 Release the retaining clips and lift off the air
cleaner lid (see illustration) .
1•22Every 30 000 miles or three years
24.6 On EFi fuel injection engines, release
the retaining clips and lift off the air
cleaner lid24.3 . . . then spring back the clips and lift of the lid24.2 On carburettor and CFi fuel injectionengines, undo the air cleaner lid retaining
screws . . .
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engine idling, the hot-air inlet is open to allow
warm air from the exhaust manifold area to
enter the air cleaner. If the flap operates as
described, it is functioning correctly (see
illustration) .
21 If the flap fails to operate as described,
check the condition of the vacuum pipe and
its connections, and check that the flap valve
has not seized. If these are in order, either the
temperature sensor or vacuum actuator is
faulty, and a new air cleaner assembly must
be obtained. Refit the main air duct on
completion.
25 Emission control system
check
1
General
1Of the emission control systems that may
be fitted, only the crankcase ventilation
system and the evaporative emission control
systems require regular checking, and even
then, the components of these systems
require minimal attention.
2 Should it be felt that the other systems are
not functioning correctly, the advice of a
dealer should be sought.
Crankcase ventilation system
3 The function of the crankcase ventilation
system is to reduce the emission of unburned
hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to
minimise the formation of oil sludge. By
ensuring that a depression is created in the
crankcase under most operating conditions,
particularly at idle, and by positively inducing
fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and
“blow-by” gases collected in the crankcase
are drawn from the crankcase, through the air
cleaner or oil separator, into the inlet tract, to
be burned by the engine during normal
combustion.
4 On HCS engines, the system consists of a
vented oil filler cap (with an integral mesh
filter) and a hose connecting it to the oil
separator/engine breather valve connector on
the underside of the air cleaner housing. A further hose leads from the adapter/filter to
the inlet manifold.
5
On CVH engines, a closed-circuit type
crankcase ventilation system is used, the
function of which is basically the same as that
described for the HCS engine types, but the
breather hose connects directly to the rocker
cover. A separate filter is fitted in the hose to
the rocker cover in certain applications (see
illustration) .
6 The system fitted to the PTE engines is
similar to that used on the earlier (CVH)
engines on which these engines are based,
but with revisions to the hose arrangement to
suit the remotely sited air cleaner and fuel
injection system layout.
7 On Zetec engines, the crankcase ventilation
system main components are the oil
separator mounted on the front (radiator) side
of the cylinder block/crankcase, and the
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve set
in a rubber grommet in the separator’s left-
hand upper end. The associated pipework
consists of a crankcase breather pipe and two
flexible hoses connecting the PCV valve to a
union on the left-hand end of the inlet
manifold, and a crankcase breather hose
connecting the cylinder head cover to the air
cleaner assembly. A small foam filter in the
air cleaner prevents dirt from being drawn
directly into the engine.
8 Check that all components of the system
are securely fastened, correctly routed (with
no kinks or sharp bends to restrict flow) and in
sound condition; renew any worn or damaged
components.
9 On HCS engines, remove and inspect the
oil filler cap to ensure that it is in good
condition, and not blocked up with sludge.
10 Disconnect the hoses at the cap, and
clean the cap if necessary by brushing the
inner mesh filter with petrol, and blowing
through with light pressure from an air line.
Renew the cap if it is badly congested.
11 If oil leakage is noted, disconnect the
various hoses and pipes, and check that all
are clear and unblocked. Remove the air
cleaner lid, and check that the hose from the
cylinder head cover to the air cleaner housing
is clear and undamaged. 12
Where fitted, the PCV valve is designed to
allow gases to flow out of the crankcase only,
so that a depression is created in the
crankcase under most operating conditions,
particularly at idle. Therefore, if either the oil
separator or the PCV valve are thought to be
blocked, they must be renewed (see Chap-
ter 4E). In such a case, however, there is
nothing to be lost by attempting to flush out
the blockage using a suitable solvent. The
PCV valve should rattle when shaken.
13 While the air filter element is removed (see
Section 24), wipe out the housing, and on
Zetec engines, withdraw the small foam filter
from its location in the rear right-hand corner
of the housing (see illustration) . If the foam is
badly clogged with dirt or oil, it must be
cleaned by soaking it in a suitable solvent,
and allowed to dry before being refitted.
Evaporative emission control
systems
14 Refer to the checks contained in Chap-
ter 4E.
26 Automatic transmission fluid renewal
1
1The automatic transmission fluid should
only be changed when the transmission is
cold.
2 Position the vehicle over an inspection pit,
on vehicle ramps, or jack it up and securely
support it on axle stands, but make sure that
it is level.
3 Place a suitable container beneath the drain
plug on the transmission sump pan. Remove
the transmission fluid dipstick to speed up the
draining operation.
4 Thoroughly clean the area around the drain
plug in the transmission sump pan, then
unscrew the plug and allow the fluid to drain
into the container.
5 When all the fluid has drained (this may take
quite some time) clean the drain plug, then
refit it together with a new seal and tighten it
securely.
6 Place a funnel with a fine mesh screen in
the dipstick tube, and fill the transmission with
1•24Every 30 000 miles or three years
25.13 The crankcase ventilation system foam filter is located in the air cleaner housing on Zetec engines25.5 Crankcase ventilation system filter on CVH engines
24.20 Air cleaner inlet and flap valve onthe CVH engine
A Flap open (cool air inlet closed)
B Warm air inlet
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the specified type of fluid. It is essential that
no dirt is introduced into the transmission
during this operation.
7Depending on the extent to which the fluid
was allowed to drain, it is possible that the
amount of fluid required when filling the
transmission may be more than the specified
amount (see “Lubricants, fluids and tyre
pressures” ). However, due to fluid remaining in
the system, it is more likely that less than the
specified amount will be required. Add about
half the specified amount, then run the engine
up to its normal operating temperature and
check the level on the dipstick. When the level
approaches the maximum mark, proceed as
detailed in Section 20 to check the level and
complete the final topping-up as described.
27 Handbrake adjustment
3
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Fully
release the handbrake.
2 Check that the handbrake cables are
correctly routed and secured by the retaining
clips at the appropriate points under the vehicle.
3 The handbrake is checked for adjustment
by measuring the amount of movement
possible in the handbrake adjuster plungers.
These are located on the inside face of each
rear brake backplate (see illustration) . Thetotal movement of the two plungers combined
should be between 0.5 and 2.0 mm. If the
movement measured is outside of this
tolerance, the handbrake is in need of
adjustment. Adjustment is made altering the
position of the in-line cable adjuster sleeve.
4
When adjustment to the handbrake is
necessary, a new adjustment sleeve locking
pin will be required, and this must therefore
be obtained before making the adjustment.
5 To adjust the handbrake, first ensure that it
is fully released, then firmly apply the
footbrake a few times to ensure that the rear
brake adjustment is taken up by the automatic
adjusters. Extract the locking pin from
the adjuster sleeve (see illustration), then
turn the sleeve to set the combined move-
ment of the plungers within the tolerance range specified (0.5 to 2.0 mm). Turn the
locking nut by hand as tight as is possible
(two clicks) against the adjustment sleeve.
Now grip the locknut with a suitable wrench,
and turn it a further two clicks (maximum).
6
Secure the adjustment by inserting the new
lock pin.
7 Check that the operation of the handbrake
is satisfactory, then lower the vehicle to the
ground, apply the handbrake and remove the
chocks from the front wheels.
28 Front wheel alignment check
4
Refer to Chapter 10, Section 29.
Every 30 000 miles or three years1•25
27.5 Handbrake cable adjuster locking
pin (A), locknut (B) and adjuster sleeve (C)27.3 Handbrake adjustment plunger
located on the inside face of each rear brake backplate
1
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Every 40 000 miles
29 Timing belt renewal
4
Refer to Chapter 2, Part B or C as
applicable.
Every 60 000 miles
30 Fuel filter renewal
1
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so extra precautions
must be taken when working on
any part of the fuel system. Do
not smoke, or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs, near the work area. Also, do
not work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present.
While performing any work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses, and have a
suitable (Class B) fire extinguisher on
hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin,
rinse it off immediately with soap and
water.
1
On fuel injection engines, an in-line fuel
filter is provided in the fuel pump outlet line.
The filter is located in the engine compartment
either below and behind the battery, or on the
left-hand side of the engine compartment
bulkhead. The renewal procedure is the same
for both locations. The filter performs a vital
role in keeping dirt and other foreign matter
out of the fuel system, and so must be renewed at regular intervals, or whenever you
have reason to suspect that it may be
clogged. It is always unpleasant working
under a vehicle - pressure-washing or hosing
clean the underbody in the filter’s vicinity will
make working conditions more tolerable, and
will reduce the risk of getting dirt into the fuel
system.
2
Depressurise the fuel system as described
in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1), then position
a suitable container beneath the fuel filter to
catch escaping fuel. Have a rag handy to soak
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connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head and sump) without removing the engine.
However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly
completed with the engine on the bench, as
described in Chapter 2D.
2 Compression test-
description and interpretation
2
1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the oil level
must be correct and the battery must be fully
charged. The aid of an assistant will also be
required.
3 On fuel injection engines, refer to Chap-
ter 12 and remove the fuel pump fuse from the
fusebox. Now start the engine and allow it to
run until it stalls.
4 Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the multi-plug from the DIS or
E-DIS ignition coil. Remove all the spark plugs
with reference to Chapter 1 if necessary.
5 Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
6 Arrange for an assistant to hold the
accelerator pedal fully depressed to the floor,
while at the same time cranking the engine
over for several seconds on the starter motor.
Observe the compression gauge reading. The
compression will build up fairly quickly in a
healthy engine. Low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually-increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression on the
first stroke which does not rise on successive
strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown
head gasket (a cracked cylinder head could
also be the cause). Deposits on the underside
of the valve heads can also cause low
compression. Record the highest gauge
reading obtained, then repeat the procedure
for the remaining cylinders.
7 Due to the variety of testers available, and
the fluctuation in starter motor speed when
cranking the engine, different readings
are often obtained when carrying out
the compression test. For this reason, actual
compression pressure figures are not quoted
by Ford. However, the most important factor
is that the compression pressures are uniform
in all cylinders, and that is what this test is
mainly concerned with.
8 Add some engine oil (about three squirts
from a plunger type oil can) to each cylinder
through the spark plug holes, and then repeat
the test. 9
If the compression increases after the oil is
added, it is indicative that the piston rings are
definitely worn. If the compression does not
increase significantly, the leakage is occurring
at the valves or the head gasket. Leakage
past the valves may be caused by burned
valve seats and/or faces, or warped, cracked
or bent valves.
10 If two adjacent cylinders have equally low
compressions, it is most likely that the head
gasket has blown between them. The
appearance of coolant in the combustion
chambers or on the engine oil dipstick would
verify this condition.
11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the other, and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn lobe on the camshaft could
be the cause.
12 On completion of the checks, refit the
spark plugs and reconnect the HT leads and
the ignition coil plug. Refit the fuel pump fuse
to the fusebox.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
2
1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
at the end of the compression stroke for No 1
piston is used. On the HCS engine, No 1
cylinder is at the crankshaft pulley/timing
chain end of the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Ensure that the ignition is switched off.
Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs,
then unscrew and remove the plugs as
described in Chapter 1.
3 Turn the engine over by hand (using a
spanner on the crankshaft pulley) to the point
where the timing mark on the crankshaft
pulley aligns with the TDC (0) mark or TDC
reference pointer on the timing cover (see
illustration) . As the pulley mark nears the
timing mark, the No 1 piston is simultaneously
approaching the top of its cylinder. To ensure
that it is on its compression stroke, place a
finger over the No 1 cylinder plug hole, and feel to ensure that air pressure exits from the
cylinder as the piston reaches the top of its
stroke.
4
A further check to ensure that the piston is
on its compression stroke can be made by
first removing the air cleaner (refer to the
relevant Part of Chapter 4), then unbolting and
removing the rocker cover, so that the
movement of the valves and rockers can be
observed.
5 With the TDC timing marks on the
crankshaft pulley and timing cover in
alignment, rock the crankshaft back and forth
a few degrees each side of this position, and
observe the action of the valves and rockers
for No 1 cylinder. When No 1 piston is at the
TDC firing position, the inlet and exhaust valve
of No 1 cylinder will be fully closed, but the
corresponding valves of No 4 cylinder will be
seen to rock open and closed.
6 If the inlet and exhaust valves of No 1
cylinder are seen to rock whilst those of
No 4 cylinder are shut, the crankshaft will
need to be turned one full rotation to bring
No 1 piston up to the top of its cylinder on the
compression stroke.
7 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise (in its
normal direction of rotation), 180º at a time,
and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
4 Cylinder head rocker cover -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Where necessary for access, remove the air
cleaner as described in the relevant Part of
Chapter 4.
2 Detach the HT leads from the spark plugs.
Pull on the connector of each lead (not the
lead itself), and note the order of fitting.
3 Remove the engine oil filler cap and
breather hose (where fitted).
4 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the
rocker cover clear of the cylinder head.
Remove the gasket.
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3
3.3 Timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligned with the TDC (0) mar\
k on the timing cover
2A
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Refitting
5Thoroughly clean the rocker cover, and
scrape away any traces of old gasket
remaining on the cover and cylinder head
mating surfaces.
6 Fit a new gasket to the rocker cover, then
refit the rocker cover (see illustrations).
Tighten the cover retaining bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting, in a diagonal
sequence.
7 Reconnect the HT leads, and refit the air
cleaner as described in Chapter 4.
5 Valve clearances -
checking and adjustment
2
Note: The valve clearances must be checked
and adjusted only when the engine is cold.
1 The importance of having the valve
clearances correctly adjusted cannot be
overstressed, as they vitally affect the
performance of the engine. If the clearances
are too big, the engine will be noisy
(characteristic rattling or tapping noises) and
engine efficiency will be reduced, as the
valves open too late and close too early. A
more serious problem arises if the clearances
are too small, however. If this is the case, the
valves may not close fully when the engine is
hot, resulting in serious damage to the engine
(eg. burnt valve seats and/or cylinder head
warping/cracking). The clearances are
checked and adjusted as follows.
2 Set the engine to TDC for No 1 piston, as
described in Section 3.
3 Remove the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
4 Starting from the thermostat end of the
cylinder head, the valves are numbered as
follows: Valve No Cylinder No
1 - Exhaust 1
2 - Inlet 1
3 - Exhaust 2
4 - Inlet 2
5 - Inlet 3
6 - Exhaust 3
7 - Inlet 4
8 - Exhaust 4 5
Adjust the valve clearances following the
sequence given in the following table. Turn
the crankshaft pulley 180º (half a turn) after
adjusting each pair of valve clearances.
Valves “rocking” Valves to adjust
7 and 8 1 (exhaust), 2 (inlet)
5 and 6 3 (exhaust), 4 (inlet)
1 and 2 8 (exhaust), 7 (inlet)
3 and 4 6 (exhaust), 5 (inlet)
6 The clearances for the inlet and exhaust
valves differ (refer to the Specifications). Use a
feeler gauge of the appropriate thickness to
check each clearance between the end of the
valve stem and the rocker arm (see
illustration) . The gauge should be a firm
sliding fit between the valve and rocker arm.
Where adjustment is necessary, turn the
adjuster bolt as required with a ring spanner
to set the clearance to that specified. The
adjuster bolts are of stiff-thread type, and
require no locking nut.
7 On completion, refit the rocker cover as
described in Section 4.
6 Cylinder head rocker gear -
removal, inspection and
refitting
2
Removal
1 Remove the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
2 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the
rocker gear assembly from the cylinder head.
As the assembly is withdrawn, ensure that the
pushrods remain seated in their positions in
the engine.
Inspection
3 To dismantle the rocker shaft assembly,
extract the split pin from one end of the shaft,
then withdraw the spring and plain washers
from the shaft.
4 Slide off the rocker arms, the support
pedestals and coil springs from the shaft, but take care to keep them in their original order
of fitting
(see illustration) .
5 Clean the respective components, and
inspect them for signs of excessive wear or
damage. Check that the oil lubrication holes in
the shaft are clear.
6 Check the rocker shaft and arm pads which
bear on the valve stem end faces for wear and
scoring, and check each rocker arm on the
shaft for excessive wear. Renew any
components as necessary.
Refitting
7 Apply clean engine oil to the rocker shaft
prior to reassembling.
2A•4 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
6.4 Rocker shaft partially dismantled for inspection
5.6 Adjusting the valve clearances4.6b Refitting the rocker cover4.6a Engage tags of rocker cover gasketinto the cut-outs in the cover
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.
If the pushrods are to be removed,
keep them in the correct order of fitting
by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from
the thermostat end of the cylinder
head, or locate them in a card.
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8Reassemble in the reverse order of
dismantling. Make sure that the “flat” on the
rear end of the rocker shaft is to the same side
as the rocker arm adjusting screws (closest to
the thermostat end of the cylinder head when
fitted) (see illustration) . This is essential for
the correct lubrication of the cylinder head
components.
9 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is
fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws
engage with their corresponding pushrods.
10 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts,
hand-tighten them and then tighten them to
the specified torque wrench setting. As they
are tightened, some of the rocker arms will
apply pressure to the ends of the valve stems,
and some of the rocker pedestals will not
initially be in contact with the cylinder head -
these should pull down as the bolts are
tightened to their specified torque. If for any
reason they do not, avoid the temptation to
overtighten in order to pull them into position;
loosen off the bolts, and check the cause of
the problem. It may be that the rocker adjuster
screws require loosening off in order to allow
the assembly to be tightened down as
required.
11 Adjust the valve clearances as described
in Section 5.
7 Cylinder head -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Note: The following procedure describes
removal and refitting of the cylinder head
complete with inlet and exhaust manifolds. If
wished, the manifolds may be removed first,
as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4,
and the cylinder head then removed on its
own.
1 On fuel injection engines, depressurise the
fuel system as described in Chapter 4, Part B.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable
and remove the air cleaner.
4 Refer to Section 4 and remove the rocker
cover. 5
Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system.
6 Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat
housing.
7 Disconnect the heater (coolant) hoses from
the inlet manifold and CFi unit, where
applicable.
8 Disconnect the accelerator and choke
cables as applicable (see Chapter 4A or 4B).
9 Disconnect the vacuum and breather hoses
from the carburettor/CFi unit, and inlet
manifold as applicable.
10 Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines
at the carburettor, or at the quick-release
couplings, then unclip the fuel hoses from the
inlet manifold; use rag to soak up any spilt
fuel.
11 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and the support bracket. Unscrew and
remove the spark plugs.
12 Disconnect the electrical leads from the
temperature gauge sender, radiator cooling
fan, the engine coolant temperature sender,
and the anti-run-on (anti-dieselling) valve at
the carburettor.
13 Disconnect the remaining wiring multi-
plugs from the engine sensors at the inlet
manifold and from the oxygen sensor (where
fitted) in the exhaust manifold or downpipe.
14 On vehicles equipped with a pulse-air
system, remove the pulse-air piping and filter
assembly as described in Chapter 4E.
15 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
16 Undo the retaining nuts and bolts, and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. Remove the flange gasket. (Note
that both the gasket and the joint self-locking
nuts must be renewed.) To prevent the
exhaust system from being strained, tie the
downpipe up using strong wire or a length of
cord to support it. Lower the vehicle.
17 Undo the four retaining bolts and lift clear
the rocker gear assembly from the cylinder
head.
18 Lift out the pushrods. Keep them in order
of fitting by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from
the thermostat end of the cylinder head.
Alternatively, push them through a piece of
card in their fitted sequence.
19 Progressively unscrew and loosen off the
cylinder head retaining bolts in the reverse
sequence to that shown for tightening (see
illustration 7.27a). When they are all loosened off, remove the bolts, then lift the
cylinder head clear and remove the gasket. If
it is stuck, tap it upwards using a hammer and
block of wood. Do not try to turn it, as it is
located by dowels; make no attempt
whatsoever to prise it free using a screwdriver
inserted between the block and head faces.
The gasket must always be renewed; it should
be noted that the cylinder head retaining bolts
may be re-used, but only once. They should
be marked accordingly with a punch or paint
mark. If there is any doubt as to how many
times the bolts have been used, they must be
renewed.
20
To dismantle/overhaul the cylinder head,
refer to Part D of this Chapter. It is normal for
the cylinder head to be decarbonised and the
valves to be reground whenever the head is
removed.
Preparation for refitting
21 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
22 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
23 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
24 Clean the threads of the cylinder head
bolts or fit new ones (as applicable) and clean
out the bolt holes in the block. Screwing a bolt
into an oil-filled hole can (in extreme cases)
cause the block to fracture, due to the
hydraulic pressure.
Refitting
25 Check that the new cylinder head gasket
is the same type as the original, and that the
“TOP” (or “OBEN”) marking is facing
upwards. Locate the new cylinder head
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5
6.8 Flat on the rocker shaft (arrowed) to
same side as rocker arm adjusting screws
2A
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
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