1989 FORD FIESTA wheel size

fitted with three piston rings: two
compression rings and an oil control ring.
After manufacture, the cylinder bores and
piston skirts are measured and classified into
three grades, which must be carefully
matched together, to ensure the correct
piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are
available to permit reboring.The inlet and exhaust valves are each
closed by coil springs; they operate in guides
which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head,
as are the valve seat inserts. Both camshafts are driven by the same
toothed timing belt, each operating eight
valves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets,
thus eliminating the need for routine checking
and adjustment of the valve clearances. Each
camshaft rotates in five bearings that are line-
bored directly in the cylinder head and the
(bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the
bearing caps are not available separately from
the cylinder head, and must not be
interchanged with caps from another engine. The water pump is bolted to the right-hand
end of the cylinder block, inboard of the
timing belt, and is driven with the power
steering pump and alternator by a flat
“polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from the
crankshaft pulley.
When working on this engine, note that
Torx-type (both male and female heads) and
hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are
widely used; a good selection of bits, with the
necessary adapters, will be required, so that
these can be unscrewed without damage and,
on reassembly, tightened to the torque
wrench settings specified. Lubrication is by means of an eccentric-
rotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted on
the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil
through a strainer located in the sump. The
pump forces oil through an externally-
mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on
some versions of the engine, an oil cooler is
fitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oil
entering the engine’s galleries is cooled by the
main engine cooling system.
Repair operations possible with
the engine in the car
The following work can be carried out with
the engine in the car:
a) Compression pressure - testing.
b) Cylinder head cover - removal and
refitting.
c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.
d) Timing belt - renewal.
e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting.
f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal.
g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal and refitting.
h) Cylinder head - removal and refitting.
i) Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonising.
j) Sump - removal and refitting.
k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.
l) Oil pump - removal and refitting. m)
Flywheel/driveplate - removal and
refitting.
n) Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting.
Note: It is possible to remove the pistons and
connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head and sump) without removing the engine.
However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly
completed with the engine on the bench, as
described in Chapter 2D.
2 Compression test -
description and interpretation
2
Refer to Section 2 in Part A of this Chapter.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
2
1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
on the compression stroke for No 1 piston is
used. No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of
the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the right-hand roadwheel.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulley
and timing marks.
5 Fit a spanner onto the crankshaft pulley
bolt, and turn the crankshaft in its normal
direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from
the pulley end). 6
Note the two pairs of notches in the inner
and outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In the
normal direction of crankshaft rotation the first
pair of notches are irrelevant to the vehicles
covered in this manual, while the second pair
indicate TDC when aligned with the rear edge
of the raised mark on the sump. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise until the second pair of
notches align with the edge of the sump mark;
use a straight edge extended out from the
sump if greater accuracy is required (see
illustrations) .
7 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC, one
of them on the compression stroke. Remove
the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinder exhaust cam
lobe is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and
slightly downwards, it is No 1 cylinder that is
correctly positioned. If the lobe is pointing
horizontally forwards, rotate the crankshaft
one full turn (360º) clockwise until the pulley
notches align again, and the lobe is pointing
to the rear and slightly down. No 1 cylinder
will then be at TDC on the compression
stroke.
8 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180º at a
time and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
9 With the engine set at No 1 piston on TDC
compression, refit the drivebelt cover and the
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle and refit the
spark plugs.
4 Cylinder head cover -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air inlet components as
necessary for access as described in the
Chapter 4D.
3 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
4 On models equipped with power steering,
release the high pressure fluid pipe from the
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•3
3.6b . . . use a straight edge extended out from the sump (arrowed) if greater
accuracy is required3.6a Do not use crankshaft pulley’s first
pair of notches “A” - align second pair of
notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .
2C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.
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7Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wear
or damage, and renew if necessary; if either
rotor, the pump body, or its cover plate are
scored or damaged, the complete oil pump
assembly must be renewed.
8 The oil pressure relief valve can be
dismantled, if required, without disturbing the
pump. Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front right-hand roadwheel and auxiliary
drivebelt cover (see Chapter 1) to provide
access to the valve.
9 Unscrew the threaded plug, and recover
the valve spring and plunger (see
illustrations) . If the plug’s sealing O-ring is
worn or damaged, a new one must be
obtained, to be fitted on reassembly.
10 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure; ensure the spring and
valve are refitted the correct way round, and
tighten the threaded plug securely.
Refitting
11
The oil pump must be primed on
installation, by pouring clean engine oil into it,
and rotating its inner rotor a few turns.
12 Using grease to stick the new gasket in
place on the cylinder block/crankcase, and
rotating the pump’s inner rotor to align with
the flats on the crankshaft, refit the pump and
insert the bolts, tightening them lightly at first
(see illustration) .
13 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler
gauges, check that the pump is both centred
exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned
squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is
exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and
0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder
block/crankcase on each side of the
crankshaft (see illustration) . Being careful
not to disturb the gasket, move the pump into
the correct position, and tighten its bolts
to the specified torque wrench setting.
14 Check that the pump is correctly located;
if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the
full procedure to ensure that the pump is
correctly aligned.
15 Fit a new crankshaft right-hand oil seal
(see Section 15).
16 Using grease to stick the gasket in place
on the pump, refit the pick-up/strainer pipe,
tightening its screws and nut to their specified
torque wrench settings (see illustration).17
The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.15 Crankshaft oil seals -
renewal
4
Note: Don’t try to prise these seals out without
removing the oil pump or seal carrier - the
seals are too soft, and the amount of space
available is too small, for this to be possible
without considerable risk of damage to the seal
housing and/or the crankshaft journal. Follow
exactly the procedure given below.
Right-hand seal
1 Remove the oil pump (see Section 14).
2 Drive the oil seal out of the pump from
behind (see illustration) .
3 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,
polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place.
4 Refit the oil pump (see Section 14). Grease
the lips and periphery of the new seal, to ease
installation.
5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use
of their service tool 21-093A, with the
crankshaft pulley bolt, to draw the seal into
place; an alternative can be arranged using a
socket of suitable size, with a washer to
match the crankshaft pulley bolt (see
illustration) .
2C•14Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
15.5 Socket of correct size can be used to
replace Ford service tool, drawing new
seal into place as described15.2 Driving out crankshaft right-hand oil seal14.16 Use new gasket when refitting oilpick-up pipe to pump
14.13 Oil pump must be positioned accurately
14.12 Use new gasket when refitting oil pump14.9b . . . to withdraw oil pressure reliefvalve spring and plunger14.9a Unscrew threaded plug - seenthrough right-hand wheel arch . . .
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engine is dismantled for full overhaul (see
illustrations) .
2 Remove all oil gallery plugs (where fitted).
The plugs are usually very tight - they may
have to be drilled out, and the holes re-
tapped. Use new plugs when the engine is
reassembled. Drill a small hole in the centre of
each core plug, and pull them out with a car
bodywork dent puller.
Caution: The core plugs (also known as
freeze or soft plugs) may be difficult or
impossible to retrieve if they are driven
into the block coolant passages.
3 If any of the castings are extremely dirty, all
should be steam-cleaned.
4 After the castings are returned from steam-
cleaning, clean all oil holes and oil galleries
one more time. Flush all internal passages
with warm water until the water runs clear,
then dry thoroughly, and apply a light film of
oil to all machined surfaces, to prevent
rusting. If you have access to compressed air,
use it to speed the drying process, and to
blow out all the oil holes and galleries.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
5 If the castings are not very dirty, you can do
an adequate cleaning job with hot soapy
water (as hot as you can stand!) and a stiff
brush. Take plenty of time, and do a thorough
job. Regardless of the cleaning method used,
be sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very thoroughly, and to dry all components
completely; protect the machined surfaces as
described above, to prevent rusting.
6
All threaded holes must be clean and dry,
to ensure accurate torque readings during
reassembly; now is also a good time to clean
and check the threads of all principal bolts -
however, note that some, such as the cylinder
head and flywheel/driveplate bolts, are to be
renewed as a matter of course whenever they
are disturbed. Run the proper-size tap into
each of the holes, to remove rust, corrosion,
thread sealant or sludge, and to restore
damaged threads (see illustration). If
possible, use compressed air to clear the
holes of debris produced by this operation; a
good alternative is to inject aerosol-applied
water-dispersant lubricant into each hole,
using the long spout usually supplied. Warning: Wear eye protection
when cleaning out these holes
in this way, and be sure to dry
out any excess liquid left in the
holes.
7 When all inspection and repair procedures
are complete (see below) and the block is
ready for reassembly, apply suitable sealant
to the new oil gallery plugs, and insert them
into the holes in the block. Tighten them
securely. After coating the sealing surfaces of
the new core plugs with suitable sealant,
install them in the cylinder block/crankcase.
Make sure they are driven in straight and seated properly, or leakage could result.
Special tools are available for this purpose,
but a large socket with an outside diameter
that will just slip into the core plug, used with
an extension and hammer, will work just as
well.
8
On Zetec engines, refit the blanking plugs
or (new) piston-cooling oil jets (as applicable),
tightening their Torx screws to the torque
wrench setting specified. On all engines, refit
all other external components removed,
referring to the relevant Chapter of this
manual for further details where required.
Refit the main bearing caps, and tighten the
bolts finger-tight.
9 If the engine is not going to be reassembled
right away, cover it with a large plastic bag to
keep it clean; protect the machined surfaces
as described above, to prevent rusting.
Inspection
10 Visually check the castings for cracks and
corrosion. Look for stripped threads in the
threaded holes. If there has been any history
of internal coolant leakage, it may be
worthwhile having an engine overhaul
specialist check the cylinder block/crankcase
for cracks with special equipment. If defects
are found, have them repaired, if possible, or
renew the assembly.
11 Check each cylinder bore for scuffing and
scoring.
12 The cylinder bores must be measured
with all the crankshaft main bearing caps
bolted in place (without the crankshaft and
bearing shells), and tightened to the specified
torque wrench settings. Measure the diameter
of each cylinder at the top (just under the
ridge area), centre and bottom of the cylinder
bore, parallel to the crankshaft axis. Next,
measure each cylinder’s diameter at the same
three locations across the crankshaft axis
(see illustration) . Note the measurements
obtained.
13 Measure the piston diameter at right-
angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just above the
bottom of the skirt; again, note the results
(see illustration) .
14 If it is wished to obtain the piston-to-bore
clearance, measure the bore and piston skirt
as described above, and subtract the skirt
2D•20 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
13.13 Measure the piston skirt diameter at
right-angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just
above the base of the skirt13.12 Measure the diameter of each
cylinder just under the wear ridge (A), at
the centre (B) and at the bottom (C)
13.6 All bolt holes in the block should be cleaned and restored with a tap13.1b . . . but note that piston-cooling oiljets (where fitted) must be renewed
whenever engine is overhauled - Zetec engines13.1a Unbolt blanking plugs (where fitted)to clean out oilways . . .
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necessary for reassembly of the engine are at
hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, jointing and thread locking
compound will be needed during engine
reassembly. For general-purpose applications,
it is recommended that Loctite 275 setting
sealer or Hylomar PL32M non-setting sealer
be used for joints where required, and
Loctite 270 for stud and bolt thread-locking.
For specific applications on Zetec engines,
Hylosil 102 for the cylinder block/crankcase-
to-sump/oil pump/oil seal carrier joints, and
Loctite 518 for the camshaft right-hand
bearing caps should be used. These are
recommended by, and obtained from, Ford
dealers. In all other cases, provided the
relevant mating surfaces are clean and flat,
new gaskets will be sufficient to ensure joints
are oil-tight. Do notuse any kind of silicone-
based sealant on any part of the fuel system or
inlet manifold, and neveruse exhaust sealants
upstream of the catalytic converter.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be carried out in the
following order (as applicable).
a) Engine ventilation cap (CVH and PTE engines).
b) Tappets and camshaft (HCS engines).
c) Crankshaft and main bearings.
d) Pistons and connecting rods.
e) Oil pump.
f) Sump.
g) Flywheel/driveplate.
h) Cylinder head.
i) Timing sprockets and chain/belt.
j) Engine external components.
3 Ensure that everything is clean prior to
reassembly. As mentioned previously, dirt and
metal particles can quickly destroy bearings
and result in major engine damage. Use clean
engine oil to lubricate during reassembly.
16 Piston rings - refitting
2
1Before installing new piston rings, check
the end gaps. Lay out each piston set with a
piston/connecting rod assembly, and keep them together as a matched set from now on.
2
Insert the top compression ring into the first
cylinder, and square it up with the cylinder
walls by pushing it in with the top of the
piston. The ring should be near the bottom of
the cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel.
3 To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges
between the ends of the ring, until a gauge
equal to the gap width is found. The feeler
gauge should slide between the ring ends
with a slight amount of drag. Compare the
measurement to the value given in the
Specifications in this Chapter; if the gap is
larger or smaller than specified, double-check to make sure you have the correct rings
before proceeding. If you are assessing the
condition of used rings, have the cylinder
bores checked and measured by a Ford
dealer or similar engine reconditioning
specialist, so that you can be sure of exactly
which component is worn, and seek advice as
to the best course of action to take.
4 If the end gap is still too small, it must be
opened up by careful filing of the ring ends
using a fine file. If it is too large, this is not as
serious, unless the specified limit is exceeded,
in which case very careful checking is
required of the dimensions of all components,
as well as of the new parts.
5 Repeat the procedure for each ring that will
be installed in the first cylinder, and for each
ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to
keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
6 Refit the piston rings as follows. Where the
original rings are being refitted, use the marks
or notes made on removal, to ensure that
each ring is refitted to its original groove and
the same way up. New rings generally have
their top surfaces identified by markings
(often an indication of size, such as “STD”, or
the word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted with
such markings uppermost (see illustration) .
Note: Always follow the instructions printed
on the ring package or box - different
manufacturers may require different
approaches. Do not mix up the top and
second compression rings, as they usually
have different cross-sections.
7 The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is usually installed first. It is composed
of three separate elements. Slip the
spacer/expander into the groove. If an
anti- rotation tang is used, make sure it is
inserted into the drilled hole in the ring groove.
Next, install the lower side rail. Don’t use a
piston ring installation tool on the oil ring side
rails, as they may be damaged. Instead, place
one end of the side rail into the groove
between the spacer/expander and the ring
land, hold it firmly in place, and slide a finger
around the piston while pushing the rail into
the groove. Next, install the upper side rail in
the same manner.
8 After the three oil ring components have
been installed, check that both the upper and
lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the
ring groove.
9 The second compression (middle) ring is installed next, followed by the top
compression ring - ensure their marks are
uppermost, and be careful not to confuse
them. Don’t expand either ring any more than
necessary to slide it over the top of the piston.
10
On HCS engines, when all of the rings are
fitted to each piston, arrange them so that the
gaps are positioned as described in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter.
11 On the CVH and PTE engines, when all of
the rings are fitted to each piston, arrange
them so that the gaps are spaced at 120º
intervals, with no gaps positioned above the
gudgeon pin hole.
12 On Zetec engines, when all the rings are
fitted to each piston, space the ring gaps
(including the elements of the oil control ring)
uniformly around the piston at 120º intervals.
17 Crankshaft - refitting and
main bearing running
clearance check
4
1 It is assumed at this point that the cylinder
block/crankcase and crankshaft have been
cleaned, inspected and repaired or
reconditioned as necessary. Position the
engine upside-down.
2 Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and lift
out the caps. Lay the caps out in the proper
order, to ensure correct installation.
3 If they’re still in place, remove the old
bearing shells from the block and the main
bearing caps. Wipe the bearing recesses of
the block and caps with a clean, lint-free
cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!
Main bearing running clearance
check
HCS engines
4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase.
Note that the upper shells have grooves in
them (the lower shells are plain, and have a
wider location lug). Where the old main
bearings are being refitted, ensure that they
are located in their original positions. Make
sure that the tab on each bearing shell fits into
the notch in the block or cap.
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
faces. No lubrication should be used at
this time.
5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into
position in the crankcase, so that their oil
grooves are facing outwards (away from the
central web) (see illustration) .
CVH and PTE engines
6Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase.
Note that with the exception of the front main
bearing, the upper shells have grooves in
2D•22 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
16.6 Look for etched markings (“STD” -
indicating a standard-sized ring - shown
here) identifying piston ring top surface
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9Detach the automatic brake adjuster
cam in a similar manner to that described
in the previous paragraph, noting its
orientation.
10 Clean the adjuster strut and its associated
components.
11 Clean the backplate, then apply a little
high-melting-point grease to the shoe contact
points on the backplate and the lower anchor
plate (see illustration) . On models so
equipped, refit the anti-rattle shims to the
brake shoe lower pivot on the backplate
ensuring that they are securely located.
12 Fit the handbrake operating lever to the
trailing shoe, using a new spring clip.
13 Fit the automatic brake adjuster cam to
the leading shoe, using a new spring clip.
14 Apply a small amount of high-melting-
point grease to the automatic brake adjuster
cam and pawl contact faces, and where
the cam and handbrake operating lever
sweep across their respective brake shoes.
Do not over-apply, as this may result in lining
contamination in use - a thin smear will
suffice. Take care not to allow any grease to
contact the brake linings.
15 Fit the adjuster strut to the trailing shoe,
securing with its spring, then connect the free
end of the strut to the automatic brake
adjuster cam. Fit the upper pull-off spring
between the tops of the two brake shoes.
16 Reconnect the handbrake cable to its
operating lever.
17 Position the brake shoes onto the
backplate so that their upper leading edges
rest against the wheel cylinder pistons, and
their lower leading edges engage either side
of the lower pivot. Fit the lower pull-off spring
into its locating slots at the bottom end of
each brake shoe.
18 Insert the brake shoe locking pins through
the rear of the backplate, then relocate the
springs and cups. Depress and turn the cups
through 90° to secure.
19 Check that the brake shoes and their
associated components are correctly refitted,
then refit the brake drum with reference to
Section 5.
20 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
rear brake.
7 Rear wheel cylinder -
removal, overhaul and refitting
3
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
warning at the beginning of Section 13
concerning the dangers of hydraulic fluid.
Removal
1 Remove the brake drum as described in
Section 5.
2 Using a suitable hose clamp, isolate the
relevant rear brake unit by clamping its
flexible brake hose.
3 Disconnect the brake pipe at the wheel
cylinder union, and fit a blanking plug to the
brake pipe to prevent dirt ingress.
4 On all models except Courier, drill out the
pop-rivets securing the brake backplate to the
axle flange, and withdraw the backplate
assembly with the brake shoes in situ. Note
that it is not possible to remove the backplate
completely as the handbrake cable will still be
attached to the brake shoes.
5 Expand the brake shoes by pulling their
tops away from the wheel cylinder. The
automatic brake adjuster will hold the shoes
clear of the wheel cylinder for ease of
removal.
6 Remove the single bolt securing the wheel
cylinder to the brake backplate, and withdraw
the wheel cylinder (see illustration).
Overhaul
7Clean any heavy dirt or grease deposits
from the external surfaces of the wheel
cylinder, then pull off the dust-excluding
covers (see illustration) .
8 The pistons and seals will probably shake
out. If they do not, apply air pressure from a
foot-operated tyre pump to the brake pipe
connection to eject them.
9 Examine the surfaces of the pistons and the
cylinder bores for scoring or signs of metal-to-
metal rubbing. If evident, renew the complete
cylinder assembly.
10 If the cylinder is to be renewed, note that three sizes are used across the Fiesta range,
dependent on specification. Ensure that the
new cylinder obtained is of the correct size to
maintain the rear braking balance.
11
Where the pistons and cylinder bores are
in good condition, discard the rubber
seals and dust excluders and obtain a repair
kit.
12 Any cleaning of the components should
be done using clean hydraulic fluid or
methylated spirit - nothing else.
13 Reassemble by dipping the first piston in
clean hydraulic fluid, then manipulate its seal
into position using fingers only. Ensure that
the seal is fitted correctly with its raised lip
facing away from the brake shoe bearing face
of the piston.
14 Insert the first piston into the wheel
cylinder from the opposite end of the cylinder
body. With it located in position, fit a dust-
excluding cover to it.
15 Fit the seal to the second piston, as
described in paragraph 13, then insert the
spring to the wheel cylinder, followed by the
second piston. Take care not to damage the
lip of the seal when fitting to the wheel
cylinder - additional lubrication with clean
hydraulic fluid and a slight twisting action
may help. Once again, only fingers should be
used.
16 Fit the dust excluding cover to the second
piston.
Refitting
17 Refitting is the reverse sequence to
removal. When refitting the backplate, locate
it in position and temporarily insert the
hub/drum retaining bolts to ensure correct
alignment. Now secure the brake backplate
using new pop rivets. Release the automatic
brake adjuster so that the brake shoes are
brought into contact with the wheel cylinder,
before refitting the hub/drum assembly as
described in Section 5.
18 On completion, bleed the brake hydraulic
system as described in Section 13 or 14 (as
applicable).
9•6 Braking system
7 .7 Exploded view of rear wheel cylinder
components
A Dust cap E Piston
B Bleed screw F Seal
C Wheel cylinder G Spring
D Dust-excluding cover7.6 Rear view of brake backplate
A Wheel cylinder-to-brake backplate retaining bolt
B Wheel cylinder brake pipe connection
C Bleed screw
6.11 Brake shoe contact points on brake backplate (arrowed)
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Roadwheels
Wheel types and sizes (dependent on model):Steel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 x 4.5, 13 x 5, 13 x 5.5
Alloy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 x 5.5, 14 x 5.5
Tyres
Tyre sizes (dependent on model) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 R 13, 145 R 13, 155/70 R 13, 165/55 R 13, 165/65 R 13, 175/60 R 13, 185/55 R 14 or 185/60 R 13
Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . See “Weekly Checks”
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Front suspension
Hub/driveshaft retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 to 235 151 to 173
Lower arm balljoint-to-spindle carrier pinch bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 to 60 35 to 44
Front suspension strut to spindle carrier pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 to 90 59 to 66
Anti-roll bar link to front suspension strut nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Anti-roll bar link to anti-roll bar nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Anti-roll bar retaining clamp bolts to lower arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 to 28 15 to 21
Front suspension strut top-mount retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 52 30 to 38
Front suspension strut spring retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 to 65 38 to 48
Front suspension crossmember bolts (XR2i only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 to 90 59 to 66
Lower arm to lower arm mounting bracket bolts (using torque-to-yield
method with vehicle standing on its wheels): Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 5037
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Slacken completely
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 5037
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Tighten through a further 90°
Rear suspension (all models except Courier)
Rear hub bearing retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 to 290 184 to 214
Rear drum/hub to axle flange bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 to 76 41 to 56
Rear axle to body mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Rear axle trailing arm bush bolt* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58
Rear strut top-mount retaining nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 to 40 20 to 30
Rear strut-to-axle mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102
Rear strut spring retaining through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 42
Anti-roll bar front mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 42
Anti-roll bar rear mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 to 113 65 to 83
Load-apportioning valve operating link to axle beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 28 15 to 21
*Torque to be measured from the bolt head (not the nut)
Rear suspension (Courier models)
Rear hub bearing retaining nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 to 290 184 to 214
Shock absorber upper mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102
Shock absorber lower mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 52 to 72
Rear suspension mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 52 to 72
Manual steering
Steering gear to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 97 57 to 72
Track rod end balljoint to spindle carrier steering arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 30 18 to 22
Track rod locknut to track rod end balljoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 to 68 42 to 50
Steering wheel to column shaft bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 55 33 to 40
Steering column mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 to 14 7 to 10
Steering column universal joint pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 to 56 33 to 41
Power steering
Steering wheel to column shaft bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5037
Steering gear to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8462
Steering gear fluid pipe unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3123
Steering gear flexible coupling pinch-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5138
Track rod end balljoint to spindle carrier steering arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2619
Track rod locknut to track rod end balljoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6346
Steering pump mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2518
Steering pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2518
High pressure fluid pipe to pump union . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6548
High pressure fluid pipe coupling joint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1713
Steering column mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Roadwheel nuts
All models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 110 52 to 74
10•2 Suspension and steering
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positioning of the voids. Install the bush on
the other side in the same way.
9With the new bushes in position, refit the
body mounting brackets loosely to the trailing
arms - do not fully tighten the pivot bolts at
this stage. Final tightening is carried out with
the vehicle standing on its roadwheels.
10 Raise the axle assembly so that the
conical locating pegs on the body mounting
brackets engage in their body locations. Refit
the body mounting bracket bolts and tighten
to the specified torque.
11 On ABS equipped models, reconnect the
load-apportioning valve operating links to the
rear axle beam
12 If the flexible brake hoses were
disconnected during this operation, reconnect
them and bleed the brake hydraulic system
(see Chapter 9).
13 Lower the vehicle to the ground.
14 Fully tighten the bush pivot bolt nuts to
the specified torque.
April 1990 models onward
15 As mentioned in the note at the start of
this Section, all later models are fitted with
revised bushes which use 12 mm (thread size)
pivot bolts. If the later type bushes are to be
fitted to a pre-April 1990 model, two
corresponding bolts and nuts must be
obtained at the same time, and either the
body mounting brackets must be replaced by
the corresponding modified items, or the
holes in the original brackets must be opened
out (to 12.5 mm) to suit the new bolts.
16 Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 1 to 4 above.
17 Using a steel tube of suitable diameter,
various flat washers and a long bolt and nut,
draw the bush out of its location in the axle
trailing arm.
18 Clean the bush eye in the trailing arm;
lubricate it, and the new bush, with a soapy
solution (washing-up liquid, for example) prior
to installation.
19 Locate the new bush in position, together
with the steel tube, washers, bolt and nut as
used for removal. Ensure that the bush flange
is positioned on the outside, then draw the
bush fully into position so that its lip is
engaged (see illustration) .
20 Raise the axle to reposition the bush pin bores in line with the bolt holes in the
mounting brackets, then insert the pivot bolts.
Screw the retaining nuts into position on the
pivot bolts, but do not fully tighten them at
this stage.
21
Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 11 to 14 above.
14 Rear suspension anti-roll bar (all models except Courier) -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
2 Undo the front clamp bolt from each end of
the bar, then support the bar and undo the
rear bolt at each end; withdraw the bar (see
illustration) .
3 Prise open the clamps to release the rubber
bushes, if required. Fit the new bushes using
soapy water as a lubricant.
Refitting
4 On refitting, offer up the bar and align first
the front clamp on each side, refitting the
bolts loosely.
5 Align and refit the rear clamp on each side;
again, tighten the bolts only loosely. 6
Lower the vehicle to the ground, rock it to
settle the suspension, then tighten the clamp
bolts to the specified torque settings.
15 Rear suspension components (Courier
models) - general
Although it is possible to remove the rear
suspension torsion bars and stabiliser bar
independently of the complete rear axle
assembly, it is essential to have certain
special tools available to complete the work
successfully.
Due to the complexity of the tasks, and the
requirement for special tools to accurately set
the suspension geometry and vehicle ride
height on refitting, the removal and refitting of
individual rear suspension components is
considered to be beyond the scope of DIY
work and should be entrusted to a Ford
dealer. Procedures for removal and refitting of the
rear shock absorbers, and the complete rear
suspension assembly are given in Sections 16
and 17 respectively.
16 Rear shock absorber (Courier models) - removal,
examination and refitting
1
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
2 Support the relevant trailing arm of the
suspension assembly and unscrew the upper
mounting bolt and nut, followed by the lower
bolt. Withdraw the shock absorber from under
the vehicle (see illustrations) .
Examination
3Examine the shock absorber body for signs
of fluid leakage or damage and check the
Suspension and steering 10•11
14.2 Rear suspension anti-roll bar
1 Rear suspension strut
2 Anti-roll bar
3 Inset showing (front) mounting clamp13.19 Pivot bush renewal (April 1990
models onwards) - correct engagement of bush lip on rear axle
A New bush, installed correctly
B New bush, installed incorrectly
16.2b . . . and lower mounting on Courier models16.2a Removing a shock absorber uppermounting . . .
10
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Door belt weatherseal moulding
Removal
12Remove the exterior mirror, as described
in Section 18 then, using a screwdriver,
carefully prise up the moulding and remove it
(see illustration) . Do not bend or kink the
moulding, as this will permanently deform it.
Refitting
13 To refit, align the moulding to its rearward
location (latch end of the door), then carefully
tap it into position by hand.
14 Refit the mirror as described in Sec-
tion 18.
11 Door aperture weatherstrip -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 To remove, pull the weatherstrip off the
door aperture flange, starting with one end of
the joint and working around to the other end.
Refitting
2 To refit, roughly align the weatherstrip joint
so that it lies in the centre of the bottom (sill
panel) flange.
3 Loop the weatherstrip into the corners of
the door aperture (see illustration).
4 With all the corners roughly in position,
work around the aperture from one end of the
weatherstrip, pressing the seal fully home. Ensure that it follows the contours of the
corners without wrinkling, and that it sits over
any interior trim edgings.
5
Seal the weatherstrip joint with a little
caulking compound applied to the body
flange, to prevent water entering by capillary
action.
6 Check that the door closes properly,
without excessive effort being required. If the
door requires excessive effort to close,
the door striker plate may be adjusted as
necessary.
12 Sill extension moulding -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Open the door and prise out the four
retaining studs from the upper surface of the
moulding.
2 From underneath, drill out the five securing
rivets then remove the moulding from the
vehicle.
Refitting
3 To refit, first align the moulding to its
location, centring it between the two
wheelarch mouldings, then refit the four
retaining studs to secure.
4 Insert the rivets to secure the moulding
from underneath.
13 Wheelarch liners -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support” ). Remove
the relevant front roadwheel.
2 Release the fasteners securing the
wheelarch liner in position (see illustration),
then remove the liner from the vehicle,
manoeuvring it to clear obstructions as
necessary.
Refitting
3 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, tightening the roadwheel nuts to
the specified torque (see Chapter 10).
14 Wheelarch mouldings -
removal and refitting
2
Front
Removal
1 Remove the wheelarch liner, as described
in Section 13.
2 From underneath the wheelarch, remove
the four fixing nuts securing the upper part of
the moulding.
3 Remove the plastic stud from the lower
edge of the wheelarch flange.
4 Remove the forward jacking position cover
from the sill extension moulding, by pulling
the lower section of the cover, then using a
suitably-sized drill, remove the rivet
securing the rear edge of the wheelarch
moulding.
5 Carefully detach the wheelarch moulding
from the vehicle, sliding its rear out from
under the sill extension moulding.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, adjusting alignment as necessary
before riveting the rear of the moulding.
Rear
Removal
7 Remove the sill extension moulding, as
described in Section 12.
8 Drill out the rivet securing the forward end
of the wheelarch moulding (see illustration).
9 Remove the plastic stud from the lower
edge of the wheelarch flange.
10 From underneath the wheelarch, remove
the four fixing nuts securing the upper part of
the moulding.
11 Carefully pull the wheelarch moulding
away from the body, disengage it from the
clamp, and remove.
11•6 Bodywork and fittings
14.8 Rear wheelarch moulding fixings (clamp cutaway arrowed)13.2 Front wheelarch liner fixings
A Locating lug at top of wheelarch11.3 Loop the weatherstrip into the door aperture
10.12 Removing a door belt weathersealmoulding
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