1989 FORD FIESTA warning light

filter; if the additional working clearance is
required, remove also the auxiliary drivebelt
cover.
7Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust
components, place the drain pan under the
drain plug, and unscrew the plug (see
illustrations) . If possible, try to keep the plug
pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by
hand the last couple of turns.
8 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
Check the condition of the plug’s sealing
washer and renew it if worn or damaged.
When the oil has completely drained, wipe
clean the drain plug and its threads in the
sump and refit the plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting.
9 Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter
then, using a suitable filter removal tool, unscrew the oil filter from the cylinder block,
oil pump or oil filter adaptor, as applicable; be
prepared for some oil spillage
(see
illustration) . Check the old filter to make sure
that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the
engine; if it has, carefully remove it. Withdraw
the filter through the wheel arch, taking care
to spill as little oil as possible.
10 Using a clean, lint-free rag, wipe clean the
cylinder block around the filter mounting. If
there are no specific instructions supplied
with it, fit a new oil filter as follows. Apply a
light coating of clean engine oil to the filter’s
sealing ring (see illustration) . Screw the filter
into position until it seats, then tighten it
through a further half- to three-quarters of a
turn only (see illustration) . Tighten the filter
by hand only - do not use any tools.
11 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the vehicle, refit the roadwheel, and
lower the vehicle to the ground.
12 Refill the engine with oil, using the correct
grade and type of oil, as given in “Lubricants,
fluids and tyre pressures” . Pour in half the
specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few
minutes for the oil to run to the sump.
Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time,
until the level is up to the lower notch on the dipstick. Adding approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre
(depending on model) will raise the level to the
dipstick’s upper notch.
13
Start the engine. The oil pressure warning
light will take a few seconds to go out while
the new filter fills with oil; do not race the
engine while the light is on. Run the engine for
a few minutes, while checking for leaks
around the oil filter seal and the drain plug.
14 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
now completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
15 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures” in
the Reference Sections of this manual.
1•10Every 5000 miles or 6 months
3.10b Fitting the new oil filter on the Zetec engine 3.10a Lubricate the filter’s sealing ring with clean engine oil before installing the filter on the engine
3.9 Removing the oil filter on the CVHengine using a strap wrench3.7b Removing the engine oil drain plug on the Zetec engine3.7a Engine oil drain plug location in thesump on HCS, CVH and PTE engines
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.
As the drain plug releases
from the threads, move it
away sharply, so the stream
of oil issuing from the sump
runs into the pan, not up
your sleeve!
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squeezed (see illustration) . If you are using
non-Ford specification antifreeze, and so
have to renew the coolant every two years or
so, it’s a good idea to renew the hoses at that
time, regardless of their apparent condition.
3 Make sure that all hose connections are
tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits
on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring
clamps that are used to secure the hoses in
this system appear to be slackening, they
should be renewed to prevent the possibility
of leaks.
4 Some other hoses are secured to their
fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used,
check to be sure they haven’t lost their
tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps
aren’t used, make sure the hose has not
expanded and/or hardened where it slips over
the fitting, allowing it to leak.
5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain
plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs
of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake
hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering
fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the
same place, close inspection of the ground
underneath it will soon show any leaks. As
soon as a leak is detected, its source must
be traced and rectified. Where oil has been
leaking for some time, it is usually necessary
to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or
similar, to clean away the accumulated
dirt, so that (when the engine is run again)
the exact source of the leak can be
identified.
Vacuum hoses
6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to be
colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems
require hoses with different wall thicknesses,
collapse resistance and temperature
resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the
new ones are made of the same material.
7
Often the only effective way to check a
hose is to remove it completely from the
vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be
sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
correct installation.
8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to
include any plastic T-fittings in the check.
Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the
hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion,
which could cause leakage.
9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch
inside diameter) can be used as a
stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold
one end of the hose to your ear, and probe
around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening
for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a
vacuum leak. Warning: When probing with the
vacuum-hose stethoscope, be
very careful not to come into
contact with moving engine
components such as the auxiliary
drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.
Fuel hoses
Warning: There are certain
precautions which must be
taken when inspecting or
servicing fuel system
components. Work in a well-ventilated
area, and do not allow open flames
(cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or
bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop
up any spills immediately, and do not store
fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and
chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas
where the hose bends, and also just before
fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the
fuel filter.
11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by
the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the
hose, should be used for fuel line renewal.
Never, under any circumstances, use
unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing
or water hose for fuel lines.
12 Spring- type clamps are commonly used
on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their
tension over a period of time, and can be
“sprung” during removal. Replace all
spring- type clamps with screw clamps
whenever a hose is replaced.
Metal lines
13 Sections of metal piping are often used
for fuel line between the fuel filter and the
engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping
has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks
have not started in the line.
14 If a section of metal fuel line must be
renewed, only seamless steel piping should
be used, since copper and aluminium piping
don’t have the strength necessary to
withstand normal engine vibration. 15
Check the metal brake lines where they
enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic
unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose
fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls
for an immediate and thorough inspection of
the brake system.
6 Engine compartment wiring check
1
1With the vehicle parked on level ground,
apply the handbrake firmly and open the
bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small
electric torch, check all visible wiring within
and beneath the engine compartment.
2 What you are looking for is wiring that is
obviously damaged by chafing against sharp
edges, or against moving suspension/
transmission components and/or the auxiliary
drivebelt, by being trapped or crushed
between carelessly-refitted components, or
melted by being forced into contact with the
hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In
almost all cases, damage of this sort is
caused in the first instance by incorrect
routing on reassembly, after previous work
has been carried out.
3 Depending on the extent of the problem,
damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoining
the break or splicing-in a new length of wire,
using solder to ensure a good connection,
and remaking the insulation with adhesive
insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as
appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given
the implications for the vehicle’s future
reliability, the best long-term answer may well
be to renew that entire section of the loom,
however expensive this may appear.
4 When the actual damage has been
repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is re-
routed correctly, so that it is clear of other
components, and not stretched or kinked, and
is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic
clips, guides and ties provided.
5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring
that they are clean, securely fastened, and
that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire
clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows
external signs of corrosion (accumulations of
white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”),
or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be
unplugged and cleaned using electrical
contact cleaner. If the connector pins are
severely corroded, the connector must be
renewed; note that this may mean the renewal
of that entire section of the loom - see your
local Ford dealer for details.
6 If the cleaner completely removes the
corrosion to leave the connector in a
satisfactory condition, it would be wise to
pack the connector with a suitable material
which will exclude dirt and moisture,
preventing the corrosion from occurring
again; a Ford dealer may be able to
recommend a suitable product.
7 Check the condition of the battery
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months1•13
5.2 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of
failing at the worst possible time - to
prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them
carefully as shown here
1
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21 Spark plug renewal and HTcomponent check
1
Note: Spark plug renewal at this service
interval is only necessary on the HCS, CVH
and PTE engines. On Zetec engines, the
recommended interval for spark plug renewal
is every 30 000 miles or three years.
Spark plug check and renewal
1 It is vital for the correct running, full
performance and proper economy of the engine
that the spark plugs perform with maximum
efficiency. The most important factor in ensuring
this is that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the
engine. The suitable type is given in the
Specifications Section at the beginning of this
Chapter, on the Vehicle Emissions Control
Information (VECI) label located on the
underside of the bonnet (only on models sold in
some areas) or in the vehicle’s Owner’s
Handbook. If the correct type is used and the
engine is in good condition, the spark plugs
should not need attention between scheduled
renewal intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely
necessary, and should not be attempted unless
specialised equipment is available, as damage
can easily be caused to the firing ends.
2 Spark plug removal and refitting requires a
spark plug socket, with an extension which can
be turned by a ratchet handle or similar. This
socket is lined with a rubber sleeve, to protect
the porcelain insulator of the spark plug, and to
hold the plug while you insert it into the spark
plug hole. You will also need a set of feeler
gauges, to check the spark plug electrode gap,
and a torque wrench to tighten the new plugs
to the specified torque (see illustration).
3 To remove the spark plugs, first open the
bonnet; the plugs are easily reached at the
top of the engine. Note how the spark plug
(HT) leads are routed and secured by clips,
and on some engines, how they’re positioned
along the channel in the cylinder head cover.
To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark
plug (HT) leads, it is a good idea to try to work
on one spark plug at a time.
4 If the marks on the original-equipment spark
plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads
1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead
serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt/chain
end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs
by gripping the rubber boot, not the lead,
otherwise the lead connection may be fractured.
5 It is advisable to soak up any liquid in the
spark plug recesses with a rag, and to remove
any dirt from them using a clean brush,
vacuum cleaner or compressed air before
removing the plugs, to prevent any dirt or
water from dropping into the cylinders. Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
6 Unscrew the spark plugs, ensuring that the
socket is kept in alignment with each plug - if
the socket is forcibly moved to either side, the
porcelain top of the plug may be broken off. If
any undue difficulty is encountered when
unscrewing any of the spark plugs, carefully
check the cylinder head threads and tapered
sealing surfaces for signs of wear, excessive
corrosion or damage; if any of these
conditions is found, seek the advice of a Ford
dealer as to the best method of repair.
7 As each plug is removed, examine it as
follows - this will give a good indication of the
condition of the engine. If the insulator nose is
covered with light tan to greyish-brown
deposits, then the mixture is correct, and it is
likely that the engine is in good condition.
8 If the tip and insulator nose are covered
with hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
9 If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is
indicative of a weak mixture.
10
If you are renewing the spark plugs,
purchase the new plugs, then check each of
them first for faults such as cracked insulators
or damaged threads. Note also that,
whenever the spark plugs are renewed as a
routine service operation, the spark plug (HT)
leads should be checked as described below.
11 The spark plug electrode gap is of
considerable importance as, if it is too large or
too small, the size of the spark and its
efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap
should be set to the value given in the
Specifications Section of this Chapter. New
plugs will not necessarily be set to the correct
gap, so they should always be checked
before fitting.
12 The spark plug gap is correct when the
correct-size feeler gauge or wire gauge is a
firm sliding fit between the electrodes (see
illustrations) .
13 To adjust the electrode gap, bend open, or
close up, the outer plug electrode until the
correct gap is achieved (see illustration). The
centre electrode should never be bent, as this
may crack the insulation and cause plug failure,
Every 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or two years, whichever
comes first
Every 20 000 miles or two years1•19
21.12b Spark plug manufacturers
recommend using a wire-type gauge when
checking the gap - if the wire or feeler gauge
does not slide between the electrodes with a slight drag, adjustment is required
21.12a Measuring a spark plug gap with a feeler gauge21.2 Tools required for changing spark plugs
21.13 To change the gap, bend the outer
electrode only, and be very careful not to crack or chip the porcelain insulator
surrounding the centre electrode
1
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if nothing worse. If the outer electrode is not
exactly over the centre electrode, bend it gently
to align them. Special spark plug gap adjusting
tools are available from motor accessory shops,
or from certain spark plug manufacturers.
14Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves at the top of
the plugs are tight, and that the plug exterior
surfaces and threads are clean. Brown
staining on the porcelain, immediately above
the metal body, is quite normal, and does not
necessarily indicate a “leak” between the
body and insulator.
15 Apply a smear of copper-based grease or
anti-seize compound to the threads of each
plug, and screw them in by hand where
possible. Take extra care to enter the plug
threads correctly, as the cylinder head is of
aluminium alloy.
16 When each spark plug is started correctly
on its threads, screw it down until it just seats
lightly, then tighten it to the specified torque
wrench setting. If a torque wrench is not
available - and this is one case where the use of
a torque wrench is strongly recommended -
tighten each spark plug through no more than
1/4 of a turn (CVH and PTE engines) or 1/16 of a
turn (HCS and Zetec engines) after it seats. HCS
and Zetec engines are fitted with taper-seat
spark plugs, identifiable by not having a sealing
washer, and these in particular should NEVER
be overtightened - their tapered seats mean
they are almost impossible to remove if abused.
17 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads in
their correct order, using a twisting motion on
the boot until it is firmly seated on the end of
the spark plug and on the cylinder head cover.
Spark plug (HT) lead, distributor
cap and rotor arm check
18 The spark plug (HT) leads should be
checked whenever the plugs themselves are renewed. Start by making a visual check of
the leads while the engine is running. In a
darkened garage (make sure there is
ventilation) start the engine and observe each
lead. Be careful not to come into contact with
any moving engine parts. If there is a break in
the lead, you will see arcing or a small spark
at the damaged area.
19
The spark plug (HT) leads should be
inspected one at a time, to prevent mixing up
the firing order, which is essential for proper
engine operation. Each original lead should
be numbered to identify its cylinder. If the
number is illegible, a piece of tape can be
marked with the correct number, and
wrapped around the lead (the leads should be
numbered 1 to 4, with No 1 lead nearest the
timing belt end of the engine). The lead can
then be disconnected.
20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, which
will look like a white crusty powder. Clean this
off as much as possible; if it is excessive, or if
cleaning leaves the metal connector too badly
eroded to be fit for further use, the lead must
be renewed. Push the lead and boot back
onto the end of the spark plug. The boot
should fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if it
doesn’t, remove the lead and use pliers
carefully to crimp the metal connector inside
the boot until the fit is snug.
21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length
of the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns,
cracks and other damage. Do not bend the
lead sharply, because the conductor might
break.
22 Disconnect the lead from the ignition coil
by pressing together the plastic retaining
catches (where fitted) and pulling the end
fitting off the coil terminal. Check for corrosion
and for a tight fit. If a meter with the correct
measuring range is available, measure the
resistance of the disconnected lead from its
coil connector to its spark plug connector. If
the resistance recorded for any of the leads
exceeds the value specified, all the leads
should be renewed as a set. Refit the lead to
the coil, noting that each coil terminal is
marked with its respective cylinder number,
so that there is no risk of mixing up the leads
and upsetting the firing order.
23 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT)
leads, ensuring that each is securely fastened
at the distributor cap or ignition coil and spark
plug when the check is complete. If any sign
of arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns,
cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain new
spark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set.
If new spark plug leads are to be fitted,
remove and refit them one at a time, to avoid
mix-ups in the firing order. 24
On models with distributor ignition
systems, refer to Chapter 5B and remove the
distributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside
and out with a dry lint-free rag.
25 Examine the HT lead segments inside the
cap. If they appear badly burned or pitted
renew the cap. Also check the carbon brush
in the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is free
to move and stands proud of its holder. Make
sure that there are no sign of cracks or black
“tracking” lines running down the inside of the
cap, which will also mean renewal if evident.
26 Inspect the rotor arm checking it for
security and also for signs of deterioration as
described above.
27 Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5B
on completion.
22 Idle speed control valve cleaning and maintenance
1
Note: The idle speed control valve may be
mounted on the air cleaner, on the engine
compartment bulkhead, or on the side of the inlet
manifold according to valve make and year of
manufacture. Valves manufactured by Weber are
mounted on the air cleaner and only these valves
require the periodic maintenance described
below. Bulkhead and inlet manifold mounted
valves are manufactured by Hitachi and are
maintenance free. Refer to the warning note in
Section 1 of Chapter 4C before proceeding.
1 Remove the valve as described in Chap-
ter 4C, Section 14.
2 Immerse the valve head in a suitable
container filled with clean petrol, and allow it
to soak for approximately three minutes.
3 Clean the valve bore, slots and piston with
petrol, using a suitable lint-free cloth, then
gently move the piston up and down in its
bore using a small screwdriver (see
illustration) . Ensure that no cloth particles
enter the bore, and do not use the slots to
move the piston.
4 Rinse the valve again with clean petrol, then
dry it using an air line (or other source of
compressed air).
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
5 Clean the mating faces of the valve and the
air filter housing then refit as described in
Chapter 4C, Section 14.
1•20Every 20 000 miles or two years
22.3 Gently move the idle speed control
valve piston up and down in its bore using
a small screwdriver (1.6 litre EFi engine)
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
It’s often difficult to insert spark plugs
into their holes without cross-threading
them. To avoid this possibility, fit a
short piece of rubber hose over the end
of the spark plug. The flexible hose
acts as a universal joint, to help align
the plug with the plug hole. Should the
plug begin to cross-thread, the hose
will slip on the spark plug, preventing
thread damage.
If new spark plug leads are tobe fitted, remove the leads
one at a time and fit each
new lead in exactly the same
position as the old one.
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the specified type of fluid. It is essential that
no dirt is introduced into the transmission
during this operation.
7Depending on the extent to which the fluid
was allowed to drain, it is possible that the
amount of fluid required when filling the
transmission may be more than the specified
amount (see “Lubricants, fluids and tyre
pressures” ). However, due to fluid remaining in
the system, it is more likely that less than the
specified amount will be required. Add about
half the specified amount, then run the engine
up to its normal operating temperature and
check the level on the dipstick. When the level
approaches the maximum mark, proceed as
detailed in Section 20 to check the level and
complete the final topping-up as described.
27 Handbrake adjustment
3
1 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Fully
release the handbrake.
2 Check that the handbrake cables are
correctly routed and secured by the retaining
clips at the appropriate points under the vehicle.
3 The handbrake is checked for adjustment
by measuring the amount of movement
possible in the handbrake adjuster plungers.
These are located on the inside face of each
rear brake backplate (see illustration) . Thetotal movement of the two plungers combined
should be between 0.5 and 2.0 mm. If the
movement measured is outside of this
tolerance, the handbrake is in need of
adjustment. Adjustment is made altering the
position of the in-line cable adjuster sleeve.
4
When adjustment to the handbrake is
necessary, a new adjustment sleeve locking
pin will be required, and this must therefore
be obtained before making the adjustment.
5 To adjust the handbrake, first ensure that it
is fully released, then firmly apply the
footbrake a few times to ensure that the rear
brake adjustment is taken up by the automatic
adjusters. Extract the locking pin from
the adjuster sleeve (see illustration), then
turn the sleeve to set the combined move-
ment of the plungers within the tolerance range specified (0.5 to 2.0 mm). Turn the
locking nut by hand as tight as is possible
(two clicks) against the adjustment sleeve.
Now grip the locknut with a suitable wrench,
and turn it a further two clicks (maximum).
6
Secure the adjustment by inserting the new
lock pin.
7 Check that the operation of the handbrake
is satisfactory, then lower the vehicle to the
ground, apply the handbrake and remove the
chocks from the front wheels.
28 Front wheel alignment check
4
Refer to Chapter 10, Section 29.
Every 30 000 miles or three years1•25
27.5 Handbrake cable adjuster locking
pin (A), locknut (B) and adjuster sleeve (C)27.3 Handbrake adjustment plunger
located on the inside face of each rear brake backplate
1
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
Every 40 000 miles
29 Timing belt renewal
4
Refer to Chapter 2, Part B or C as
applicable.
Every 60 000 miles
30 Fuel filter renewal
1
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so extra precautions
must be taken when working on
any part of the fuel system. Do
not smoke, or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs, near the work area. Also, do
not work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present.
While performing any work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses, and have a
suitable (Class B) fire extinguisher on
hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin,
rinse it off immediately with soap and
water.
1
On fuel injection engines, an in-line fuel
filter is provided in the fuel pump outlet line.
The filter is located in the engine compartment
either below and behind the battery, or on the
left-hand side of the engine compartment
bulkhead. The renewal procedure is the same
for both locations. The filter performs a vital
role in keeping dirt and other foreign matter
out of the fuel system, and so must be renewed at regular intervals, or whenever you
have reason to suspect that it may be
clogged. It is always unpleasant working
under a vehicle - pressure-washing or hosing
clean the underbody in the filter’s vicinity will
make working conditions more tolerable, and
will reduce the risk of getting dirt into the fuel
system.
2
Depressurise the fuel system as described
in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1), then position
a suitable container beneath the fuel filter to
catch escaping fuel. Have a rag handy to soak
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connecting rods (after removing the cylinder
head and sump) without removing the engine.
However, this is not recommended. Work of
this nature is more easily and thoroughly
completed with the engine on the bench, as
described in Chapter 2D.
2 Compression test-
description and interpretation
2
1 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the oil level
must be correct and the battery must be fully
charged. The aid of an assistant will also be
required.
3 On fuel injection engines, refer to Chap-
ter 12 and remove the fuel pump fuse from the
fusebox. Now start the engine and allow it to
run until it stalls.
4 Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the multi-plug from the DIS or
E-DIS ignition coil. Remove all the spark plugs
with reference to Chapter 1 if necessary.
5 Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
6 Arrange for an assistant to hold the
accelerator pedal fully depressed to the floor,
while at the same time cranking the engine
over for several seconds on the starter motor.
Observe the compression gauge reading. The
compression will build up fairly quickly in a
healthy engine. Low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually-increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression on the
first stroke which does not rise on successive
strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown
head gasket (a cracked cylinder head could
also be the cause). Deposits on the underside
of the valve heads can also cause low
compression. Record the highest gauge
reading obtained, then repeat the procedure
for the remaining cylinders.
7 Due to the variety of testers available, and
the fluctuation in starter motor speed when
cranking the engine, different readings
are often obtained when carrying out
the compression test. For this reason, actual
compression pressure figures are not quoted
by Ford. However, the most important factor
is that the compression pressures are uniform
in all cylinders, and that is what this test is
mainly concerned with.
8 Add some engine oil (about three squirts
from a plunger type oil can) to each cylinder
through the spark plug holes, and then repeat
the test. 9
If the compression increases after the oil is
added, it is indicative that the piston rings are
definitely worn. If the compression does not
increase significantly, the leakage is occurring
at the valves or the head gasket. Leakage
past the valves may be caused by burned
valve seats and/or faces, or warped, cracked
or bent valves.
10 If two adjacent cylinders have equally low
compressions, it is most likely that the head
gasket has blown between them. The
appearance of coolant in the combustion
chambers or on the engine oil dipstick would
verify this condition.
11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the other, and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn lobe on the camshaft could
be the cause.
12 On completion of the checks, refit the
spark plugs and reconnect the HT leads and
the ignition coil plug. Refit the fuel pump fuse
to the fusebox.
3 Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating
2
1Top dead centre (TDC) is the highest point
of the cylinder that each piston reaches as the
crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches its TDC
position at the end of its compression stroke,
and then again at the end of its exhaust
stroke. For the purpose of engine timing, TDC
at the end of the compression stroke for No 1
piston is used. On the HCS engine, No 1
cylinder is at the crankshaft pulley/timing
chain end of the engine. Proceed as follows.
2 Ensure that the ignition is switched off.
Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs,
then unscrew and remove the plugs as
described in Chapter 1.
3 Turn the engine over by hand (using a
spanner on the crankshaft pulley) to the point
where the timing mark on the crankshaft
pulley aligns with the TDC (0) mark or TDC
reference pointer on the timing cover (see
illustration) . As the pulley mark nears the
timing mark, the No 1 piston is simultaneously
approaching the top of its cylinder. To ensure
that it is on its compression stroke, place a
finger over the No 1 cylinder plug hole, and feel to ensure that air pressure exits from the
cylinder as the piston reaches the top of its
stroke.
4
A further check to ensure that the piston is
on its compression stroke can be made by
first removing the air cleaner (refer to the
relevant Part of Chapter 4), then unbolting and
removing the rocker cover, so that the
movement of the valves and rockers can be
observed.
5 With the TDC timing marks on the
crankshaft pulley and timing cover in
alignment, rock the crankshaft back and forth
a few degrees each side of this position, and
observe the action of the valves and rockers
for No 1 cylinder. When No 1 piston is at the
TDC firing position, the inlet and exhaust valve
of No 1 cylinder will be fully closed, but the
corresponding valves of No 4 cylinder will be
seen to rock open and closed.
6 If the inlet and exhaust valves of No 1
cylinder are seen to rock whilst those of
No 4 cylinder are shut, the crankshaft will
need to be turned one full rotation to bring
No 1 piston up to the top of its cylinder on the
compression stroke.
7 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at
TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any
of the other cylinders can then be located by
rotating the crankshaft clockwise (in its
normal direction of rotation), 180º at a time,
and following the firing order (see
Specifications).
4 Cylinder head rocker cover -
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1 Where necessary for access, remove the air
cleaner as described in the relevant Part of
Chapter 4.
2 Detach the HT leads from the spark plugs.
Pull on the connector of each lead (not the
lead itself), and note the order of fitting.
3 Remove the engine oil filler cap and
breather hose (where fitted).
4 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the
rocker cover clear of the cylinder head.
Remove the gasket.
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3
3.3 Timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligned with the TDC (0) mar\
k on the timing cover
2A
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Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Cylinder head cover bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1.5
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
6850
Camshaft bearing cap bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 1914
Cylinder head bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 2418
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 4533
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 105º
Timing belt cover fasteners: Upper-to-middle (outer) cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3
Cover-to-cylinder head or block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Cover studs-to-cylinder head or block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Timing belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
3828
Timing belt tensioner backplate locating peg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Timing belt guide pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3828
Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 9 7
Auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4735
Front engine lifting eye bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1612
Exhaust manifold heat shield bolts: Shield-to-cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5
Shield/dipstick tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 9 7
Shield/coolant pipe-to-manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2317
Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 115 85
Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Oil baffle/pump pick-up pipe nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1914
Oil filter adapter-to-pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
2216
Oil pressure warning light switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2720
Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 2015
Coolant pipe-to-sump bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Flywheel/driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
110 81
Crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2216
Engine mountings: Engine front right-hand mounting:Alternator mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . 41 to 58 30 to 43
Mounting bracket-to-alternator mounting bracket bolts . . . . . . . . Not available Not available
Mounting through-bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not available Not available
Outer bracket-to-mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58
Inner bracket-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58
Outer bracket-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 to 79 43 to 58
Engine rear right-hand mounting: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bracket-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 to 104 56 to 77
Mounting-to-(cylinder block) bracket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 to 98 52 to 72
Mounting-to-body bolt and nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 138 75 to 102
Transmission mounting fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 7A or 7B
Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.
2C•2 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information
How to use this Chapter
This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair
procedures possible while the engine is still
installed in the vehicle, and includes only the
Specifications relevant to those procedures.
Similar information concerning the 1.3 litre
HCS engines, and the 1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH
and PTE engines, will be found in Parts A
and B of this Chapter respectively. Since these procedures are based on the
assumption that the engine is installed in the
vehicle, if the engine has been removed from
the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some
of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined
will not apply.
Information concerning engine/transmission
removal and refitting, and engine overhaul, can
be found in Part D of this Chapter, which also
includes the Specifications relevant to those
procedures.
Engine description
The Zetec engine, (formerly Zeta), is of
sixteen-valve, double overhead camshaft (DOHC), four-cylinder, in-line type, mounted
transversely at the front of the vehicle, with
the transmission on its left-hand end.
Apart from the plastic timing belt covers
and the cast-iron cylinder block/crankcase, all
major engine castings are of aluminium alloy. The crankshaft runs in five main bearings,
the centre main bearing’s upper half
incorporating thrustwashers to control
crankshaft endfloat. The connecting rods
rotate on horizontally-split bearing shells at
their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the
connecting rods by gudgeon pins which are
an interference fit in the connecting rod small-
end eyes. The aluminium alloy pistons are
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Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8059
Crankpin (big-end) bearing cap bolts: Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 1813
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 90º
Piston-cooling oil jet/blanking plug Torx screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Cylinder block and head oilway blanking plugs:
M6 x 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
M10 x 11.5 - in block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 2317
1/4 PTF plug - in block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
2418
Engine-to-transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4130
Note: Refer to Part C of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.
2D•6 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information
Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are details
of removing the engine/transmission from the
car and general overhaul procedures for the
cylinder head, cylinder block/crankcase and
all other engine internal components.
The information given ranges from advice
concerning preparation for an overhaul and
the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed
step-by-step procedures covering removal,
inspection, renovation and refitting of engine
internal components.
After Section 6, all instructions are based
on the assumption that the engine has been
removed from the car. For information
concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the
removal and refitting of those external
components necessary for full overhaul, refer
to Part A, B or C of this Chapter (as
applicable) and to Section 6. Ignore any
preliminary dismantling operations described
in Part A, B or C that are no longer relevant
once the engine has been removed from the
car.
2 Engine/transmission removal - preparation and
precautions
If you have decided that an engine must be
removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
Locating a suitable place to work is
extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the car, will be
needed. If a workshop or garage is not
available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean
work surface is required. If possible, clear some shelving close to the
work area and use it to store the engine
components and ancillaries as they are
removed and dismantled. In this manner the
components stand a better chance of staying
clean and undamaged during the overhaul.
Laying out components in groups together
with their fixing bolts, screws etc will save
time and avoid confusion when the engine is
refitted. Clean the engine compartment and
engine/transmission before beginning the
removal procedure; this will help visibility and
help to keep tools clean. On three of the engines covered in this
manual (CVH, PTE, and Zetec), the unit can
only be withdrawn by removing it complete
with the transmission; the vehicle’s body must
be raised and supported securely, sufficiently
high that the engine/transmission can be
unbolted as a single unit and lowered to the
ground; the engine/transmission unit can then
be withdrawn from under the vehicle and
separated. On all engines, an engine hoist or
A- frame will be necessary. Make sure the
equipment is rated in excess of the combined
weight of the engine and transmission. The help of an assistant should be
available; there are certain instances when
one person cannot safely perform all of the
operations required to remove the engine
from the vehicle. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in this kind of operation. A second
person should always be in attendance to
offer help in an emergency. If this is the first
time you have removed an engine, advice and
aid from someone more experienced would
also be beneficial. Plan the operation ahead of time. Before
starting work, obtain (or arrange for the hire
of) all of the tools and equipment you will
need. Access to the following items will allow
the task of removing and refitting the
engine/transmission to be completed safely
and with relative ease: an engine hoist - rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine/transmission, a heavy-duty trolley
jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets
as described in “ Tools and working facilities ”
at the rear this manual, wooden blocks, and
plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for
mopping up spilled oil, coolant and fuel. A
selection of different sized plastic storage bins
will also prove useful for keeping dismantled
components grouped together. If any of the
equipment must be hired, make sure that you
arrange for it in advance, and perform all of
the operations possible without it beforehand;
this may save you time and money. Plan on the vehicle being out of use for
quite a while, especially if you intend to carry
out an engine overhaul. Read through the
whole of this Section and work out a strategy based on your own experience and the tools,
time and workspace available to you. Some of
the overhaul processes may have to be
carried out by a Ford dealer or an engineering
works - these establishments often have busy
schedules, so it would be prudent to consult
them before removing or dismantling the
engine, to get an idea of the amount of time
required to carry out the work.
When removing the engine from the vehicle,
be methodical about the disconnection of
external components. Labelling cables and
hoses as they removed will greatly assist the
refitting process.
Always be extremely careful when lifting the
engine/transmission assembly from the
engine bay. Serious injury can result from
careless actions. If help is required, it is better
to wait until it is available rather than risk
personal injury and/or damage to components
by continuing alone. By planning ahead and
taking your time, a job of this nature, although
major, can be accomplished successfully and
without incident.
3 Engine - removal and
refitting (HCS engines)
3
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when disconnecting
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke, or allow naked flames or bare
light bulbs, in or near the work area, and
don’t work in a garage where a natural-gas
appliance (such as a clothes dryer or water
heater) is installed. If you spill petrol on
your skin, rinse it off immediately. Have a
fire extinguisher rated for petrol fires
handy, and know how to use it.
Note: Read through the entire Section, as well
as reading the advice in the preceding
Section, before beginning this procedure. The
engine is removed separately from the
transmission and is lifted upwards and out of
the engine compartment.
Removal
1 On fuel injection engines, refer to Chap-
ter 4B and depressurise the fuel system.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
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