1989 FORD FIESTA coolant reservoir

squeezed (see illustration) . If you are using
non-Ford specification antifreeze, and so
have to renew the coolant every two years or
so, it’s a good idea to renew the hoses at that
time, regardless of their apparent condition.
3 Make sure that all hose connections are
tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits
on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring
clamps that are used to secure the hoses in
this system appear to be slackening, they
should be renewed to prevent the possibility
of leaks.
4 Some other hoses are secured to their
fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used,
check to be sure they haven’t lost their
tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps
aren’t used, make sure the hose has not
expanded and/or hardened where it slips over
the fitting, allowing it to leak.
5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain
plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs
of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake
hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering
fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the
same place, close inspection of the ground
underneath it will soon show any leaks. As
soon as a leak is detected, its source must
be traced and rectified. Where oil has been
leaking for some time, it is usually necessary
to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or
similar, to clean away the accumulated
dirt, so that (when the engine is run again)
the exact source of the leak can be
identified.
Vacuum hoses
6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to be
colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems
require hoses with different wall thicknesses,
collapse resistance and temperature
resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the
new ones are made of the same material.
7
Often the only effective way to check a
hose is to remove it completely from the
vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be
sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
correct installation.
8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to
include any plastic T-fittings in the check.
Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the
hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion,
which could cause leakage.
9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch
inside diameter) can be used as a
stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold
one end of the hose to your ear, and probe
around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening
for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a
vacuum leak. Warning: When probing with the
vacuum-hose stethoscope, be
very careful not to come into
contact with moving engine
components such as the auxiliary
drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.
Fuel hoses
Warning: There are certain
precautions which must be
taken when inspecting or
servicing fuel system
components. Work in a well-ventilated
area, and do not allow open flames
(cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or
bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop
up any spills immediately, and do not store
fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and
chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas
where the hose bends, and also just before
fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the
fuel filter.
11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by
the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the
hose, should be used for fuel line renewal.
Never, under any circumstances, use
unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing
or water hose for fuel lines.
12 Spring- type clamps are commonly used
on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their
tension over a period of time, and can be
“sprung” during removal. Replace all
spring- type clamps with screw clamps
whenever a hose is replaced.
Metal lines
13 Sections of metal piping are often used
for fuel line between the fuel filter and the
engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping
has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks
have not started in the line.
14 If a section of metal fuel line must be
renewed, only seamless steel piping should
be used, since copper and aluminium piping
don’t have the strength necessary to
withstand normal engine vibration. 15
Check the metal brake lines where they
enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic
unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose
fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls
for an immediate and thorough inspection of
the brake system.
6 Engine compartment wiring check
1
1With the vehicle parked on level ground,
apply the handbrake firmly and open the
bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small
electric torch, check all visible wiring within
and beneath the engine compartment.
2 What you are looking for is wiring that is
obviously damaged by chafing against sharp
edges, or against moving suspension/
transmission components and/or the auxiliary
drivebelt, by being trapped or crushed
between carelessly-refitted components, or
melted by being forced into contact with the
hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In
almost all cases, damage of this sort is
caused in the first instance by incorrect
routing on reassembly, after previous work
has been carried out.
3 Depending on the extent of the problem,
damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoining
the break or splicing-in a new length of wire,
using solder to ensure a good connection,
and remaking the insulation with adhesive
insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as
appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given
the implications for the vehicle’s future
reliability, the best long-term answer may well
be to renew that entire section of the loom,
however expensive this may appear.
4 When the actual damage has been
repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is re-
routed correctly, so that it is clear of other
components, and not stretched or kinked, and
is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic
clips, guides and ties provided.
5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring
that they are clean, securely fastened, and
that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire
clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows
external signs of corrosion (accumulations of
white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”),
or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be
unplugged and cleaned using electrical
contact cleaner. If the connector pins are
severely corroded, the connector must be
renewed; note that this may mean the renewal
of that entire section of the loom - see your
local Ford dealer for details.
6 If the cleaner completely removes the
corrosion to leave the connector in a
satisfactory condition, it would be wise to
pack the connector with a suitable material
which will exclude dirt and moisture,
preventing the corrosion from occurring
again; a Ford dealer may be able to
recommend a suitable product.
7 Check the condition of the battery
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months1•13
5.2 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of
failing at the worst possible time - to
prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them
carefully as shown here
1
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module from inside the passenger
compartment as its mounting bracket
retaining tags are compressed and released
from the engine compartment. Do not allow
the module to drop into the passenger
compartment as irreparable damage is likely
to result (see illustration) . The module may
be separated from its mounting bracket by
undoing the securing bolts.
38 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the module
mounting bracket retaining tags are felt to
snap into position
Crankshaft position sensor
39 Refer to Chapter 5B.
Coolant temperature sensor
40Refer to Chapter 3.
Inlet air temperature sensor
41Remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in Section 4.
42 Releasing its clip, unplug the sensor’s
electrical connector, then unscrew the sensor
from the CFi unit (see illustration).
43 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Tighten the sensor to the specified
torque wrench setting; if it is overtightened, its
tapered thread may crack the resonator.
Throttle position sensor
44 Remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in Section 4.
45 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
sensor’s wiring connector. Remove the
retaining screws, and withdraw the unit from
the throttle plate control motor bracket (see
illustration) . Do not force the sensor’s centre
to rotate past its normal operating sweep; the
unit will be seriously damaged.
46 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the sensor actuating
arm is correctly located.
Vehicle speed sensor
47 The sensor is mounted at the base of the
speedometer drive cable, and is removed with
the speedometer drive pinion. Refer to the
relevant Section of Chapter 7A or B, as
applicable.
Manifold absolute pressure
sensor
48 The sensor is located near the centre of
the engine compartment bulkhead.
49 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug, and
detach the vacuum hose from the base of the
sensor (see illustration) .
50 Undo the two retaining screws, and
withdraw the sensor from its location. 51
Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Power steering pressure switch
52 Releasing its clip, unplug the switch’s
electrical connector, then unscrew the switch
from the power steering high pressure pipe.
Place a wad of rag underneath, to catch any
spilt fluid. If a sealing washer is fitted, renew it
if it is worn or damaged.
53 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the switch securely, then
top-up the fluid reservoir (see “Weekly
Checks” ) to replace any fluid lost from the
system, and bleed out any trapped air (see
Chapter 10).
Oxygen sensor
Note: The sensor is delicate, and will not work
if it is dropped or knocked, if its power supply
is disrupted, or if any cleaning materials are
used on it.
54 Release the sensor’s electrical connector
from its bracket and unplug it to disconnect
the sensor (see illustration) .
55 Raise and support the front of the vehicle
if required to remove the sensor from
underneath (“see Jacking and vehicle
support” ). Remove the sensor heat shield then
unscrew the sensor from the exhaust system
front downpipe; collect the sealing washer
(where fitted).
56 On refitting, clean the sealing washer
(where fitted) and renew it if it is damaged or
4B•8 Fuel system - central fuel injection engines
14.54 Oxygen sensor (A) (shown with its
heatshield removed), and its multi-plug (B)
14.49 Manifold absolute pressure sensor location
A Securing screws B Multi-plug C Vacuum hose\
Arrows indicate ignition module retaining screws
14.45 Throttle position sensor retainingscrews (arrowed) (shown with throttle plate control motor removed)14.42 Disconnecting the intake airtemperature sensor multi-plug
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
14.37 Withdrawing the EEC IV engine
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Crankshaft position sensor
40Refer to Chapter 5B.
Coolant temperature sensor
41Refer to Chapter 3.
Inlet air temperature sensor
42Remove the air inlet components as
described in Section 4.
43 Releasing its clip, unplug the sensor’s
electrical connector, then unscrew the sensor
from the inlet manifold (see illustration).
44 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Throttle position sensor
45 Remove the air inlet components as
described in Section 4.
46 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
sensor’s electrical connector. Remove the
retaining screws, and withdraw the unit from
the throttle housing (see illustration). Do not
force the sensor’s centre to rotate past its
normal operating sweep; the unit will be
seriously damaged.
47 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points (see
illustration) :
a) Ensure that the potentiometer is correctly
orientated, by locating its centre on the D-
shaped throttle shaft (throttle closed), and aligning the potentiometer body so that
the bolts pass easily into the throttle
housing.
b) Tighten the screws evenly and securely
(but do not overtighten them, or the
potentiometer body will be cracked).
Vehicle speed sensor
48 The sensor is mounted at the base of the
speedometer drive cable, and is removed with
the speedometer drive pinion. Refer to the
relevant Section of Chapter 7A or B, as
applicable.
Manifold absolute pressure
sensor
49 The sensor is located near the centre of
the engine compartment bulkhead.
50 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug, and
detach the vacuum hose from the base of the
sensor.
51 Undo the two retaining screws, and
withdraw the sensor from its location.
52 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Power steering pressure switch
53 Releasing its clip, unplug the switch’s
electrical connector, then unscrew the switch
from the power steering high pressure pipe.
Place a wad of rag underneath, to catch any spilt fluid. If a sealing washer is fitted, renew it
if it is worn or damaged.
54
Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the switch securely, then
top-up the fluid reservoir (see “Weekly
Checks” ) to replace any fluid lost from the
system, and bleed out any trapped air (see
Chapter 10).
Oxygen sensor
Note: The sensor is delicate, and will not work
if it is dropped or knocked, if its power supply
is disrupted, or if any cleaning materials are
used on it.
55 Release the sensor’s wiring multi-plug
from its bracket below the starter motor, and
unplug it to disconnect the sensor.
56 Raise and support the front of the vehicle
if required to remove the sensor from
underneath (“see Jacking and vehicle
support” ). Remove the sensor heat shields
then unscrew the sensor from the exhaust
system front downpipe; collect the sealing
washer (where fitted).
57 On refitting, clean the sealing washer
(where fitted) and renew it if it is damaged or
worn. Apply a smear of anti-seize compound
to the sensor’s threads, to prevent them from
welding themselves to the downpipe in
service. Refit the sensor, tightening it to its
specified torque wrench setting; a slotted
socket will be required to do this. Reconnect
the wiring, and refit the connector plug.
Fuel mixture/CO% adjustment
potentiometer
58 The fuel mixture/CO% adjustment
potentiometer is located on the engine
compartment bulkhead below the ignition
module.
59 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
60 Disconnect the potentiometer’s wiring
multiplug (see illustration) .
61 Unscrew the retaining screw and remove
the potentiometer from the bulkhead.
62 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Fuel system - electronic fuel injection engines 4C•7
14.46 Disconnect the multi-plug from the throttle position sensor. Sensor retaining screws (arrowed)14.43 Disconnecting the intake airtemperature sensor multi-plug
14.60 Fuel mixture/CO% adjustment potentiometer
A Securing screw B Multi-plug14.47 General view of the throttle position sensor and its “D” shaped throttle spindle location (arrowed)
4C
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b)Tighten the screws evenly and securely
(but do not overtighten them, or the
potentiometer body will be cracked).
Vehicle speed sensor
48 The sensor is mounted at the base of the
speedometer drive cable, and is removed with
the speedometer drive pinion. Refer to the
relevant Section of Chapter 7A or B, as
applicable.
Power steering pressure switch
49 Releasing its clip, unplug the switch’s
electrical connector, then unscrew the switch
from the power steering high pressure pipe.
Place a wad of rag underneath, to catch any
spilt fluid. If a sealing washer is fitted, renew it
if it is worn or damaged.
50 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the switch securely, then
top-up the fluid reservoir (see “Weekly
Checks”) to replace any fluid lost from the
system, and bleed out any trapped air (see
Chapter 10).
Oxygen sensor
Note: The sensor is delicate, and will not work
if it is dropped or knocked, if its power supply
is disrupted, or if any cleaning materials are
used on it.
51 Raise and support the front of the vehicle
if required to remove the sensor from
underneath (“see Jacking and vehicle
support” ).
52 Release the sensor’s wiring multi-plug
from its support bracket, and unplug it to
disconnect the sensor (see illustration).
53 Unscrew the sensor from the exhaust
system front downpipe; collect the sealing
washer (where fitted).
54 On refitting, clean the sealing washer
(where fitted) and renew it if it is damaged or
worn. Apply a smear of anti-seize compound
to the sensor’s threads, to prevent them from
welding themselves to the downpipe in
service. Refit the sensor, tightening it to its
specified torque wrench setting; a slotted
socket will be required to do this. Reconnect
the wiring, and refit the connector plug.
15 Inlet manifold -
removal and refitting
4
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Removal
PTE engines
1 The inlet manifold is a two-piece assembly
comprising an upper and lower section bolted
together.
2 Drain the cooling system with reference to
Chapter 1.
3 Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap. Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the engine
to run - remember that fuel will
still be present in the system components,
and take precautions accordingly before
disconnecting any of them.
4 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
5 Remove the air inlet components (Sec-
tion 4) and disconnect the accelerator cable
from the throttle linkage (Section 5).
6 Remove the fuel injectors and fuel rail as
described in Section 14.
7 Noting their locations, disconnect the
coolant, vacuum and breather hoses from the
manifold. 8
Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs from the
engine sensors at the inlet manifold.
9 Undo the retaining bolts, and withdraw the
manifold from the cylinder head. Note the
location of the engine lifting bracket and earth
lead, where fitted. Remove the gasket.
10 With the manifold removed, clean all
traces of the old gasket from the mating
surfaces of the manifold and the cylinder
head.Zetec engines
11 Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap. Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the
engine to run - remember that
fuel will still be present in the system
components, and take precautions
accordingly before disconnecting any of
them.
12 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
13 Remove the air inlet components (Sec-
tion 4) and disconnect the accelerator cable
from the throttle linkage (Section 5).
14 Disconnect the crankcase breather hose
from the cylinder head cover union.
15 Unbolt the upper part of the exhaust
manifold heat shield.
16 Remove the two screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the top of the manifold - this is
simply so that it can be moved as required to
reach the manifold bolts (see illustration).
Fuel system - sequential electronic fuel injection engines 4D•7
14.52 Oxygen sensor (A) and wiring multi-
plug (B) (Zetec engine shown)15.16 Exploded view of the Zetec engine inlet manifold components
4D
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 Cylinder head
cover
2 Heat-insulating plate/gasket
3 Intermediate flange/fuel rail
assembly
4 Gasket
5 Inlet manifold
6 Intake air temperature
sensor
7 Engine wiring
loom
8 Boltsprocarmanuals.com
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