1989 FORD FIESTA lights

squeezed (see illustration) . If you are using
non-Ford specification antifreeze, and so
have to renew the coolant every two years or
so, it’s a good idea to renew the hoses at that
time, regardless of their apparent condition.
3 Make sure that all hose connections are
tight. A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits
on the areas adjoining the leak; if the spring
clamps that are used to secure the hoses in
this system appear to be slackening, they
should be renewed to prevent the possibility
of leaks.
4 Some other hoses are secured to their
fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used,
check to be sure they haven’t lost their
tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps
aren’t used, make sure the hose has not
expanded and/or hardened where it slips over
the fitting, allowing it to leak.
5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain
plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs
of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake
hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering
fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the
same place, close inspection of the ground
underneath it will soon show any leaks. As
soon as a leak is detected, its source must
be traced and rectified. Where oil has been
leaking for some time, it is usually necessary
to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or
similar, to clean away the accumulated
dirt, so that (when the engine is run again)
the exact source of the leak can be
identified.
Vacuum hoses
6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,
especially those in the emissions system, to be
colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems
require hoses with different wall thicknesses,
collapse resistance and temperature
resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the
new ones are made of the same material.
7
Often the only effective way to check a
hose is to remove it completely from the
vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be
sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure
correct installation.
8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to
include any plastic T-fittings in the check.
Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the
hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion,
which could cause leakage.
9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch
inside diameter) can be used as a
stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold
one end of the hose to your ear, and probe
around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening
for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a
vacuum leak. Warning: When probing with the
vacuum-hose stethoscope, be
very careful not to come into
contact with moving engine
components such as the auxiliary
drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.
Fuel hoses
Warning: There are certain
precautions which must be
taken when inspecting or
servicing fuel system
components. Work in a well-ventilated
area, and do not allow open flames
(cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or
bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop
up any spills immediately, and do not store
fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.
10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and
chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas
where the hose bends, and also just before
fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the
fuel filter.
11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by
the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the
hose, should be used for fuel line renewal.
Never, under any circumstances, use
unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing
or water hose for fuel lines.
12 Spring- type clamps are commonly used
on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their
tension over a period of time, and can be
“sprung” during removal. Replace all
spring- type clamps with screw clamps
whenever a hose is replaced.
Metal lines
13 Sections of metal piping are often used
for fuel line between the fuel filter and the
engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping
has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks
have not started in the line.
14 If a section of metal fuel line must be
renewed, only seamless steel piping should
be used, since copper and aluminium piping
don’t have the strength necessary to
withstand normal engine vibration. 15
Check the metal brake lines where they
enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic
unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose
fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls
for an immediate and thorough inspection of
the brake system.
6 Engine compartment wiring check
1
1With the vehicle parked on level ground,
apply the handbrake firmly and open the
bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small
electric torch, check all visible wiring within
and beneath the engine compartment.
2 What you are looking for is wiring that is
obviously damaged by chafing against sharp
edges, or against moving suspension/
transmission components and/or the auxiliary
drivebelt, by being trapped or crushed
between carelessly-refitted components, or
melted by being forced into contact with the
hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In
almost all cases, damage of this sort is
caused in the first instance by incorrect
routing on reassembly, after previous work
has been carried out.
3 Depending on the extent of the problem,
damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoining
the break or splicing-in a new length of wire,
using solder to ensure a good connection,
and remaking the insulation with adhesive
insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as
appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given
the implications for the vehicle’s future
reliability, the best long-term answer may well
be to renew that entire section of the loom,
however expensive this may appear.
4 When the actual damage has been
repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is re-
routed correctly, so that it is clear of other
components, and not stretched or kinked, and
is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic
clips, guides and ties provided.
5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring
that they are clean, securely fastened, and
that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire
clip, as appropriate. If any connector shows
external signs of corrosion (accumulations of
white or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”),
or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be
unplugged and cleaned using electrical
contact cleaner. If the connector pins are
severely corroded, the connector must be
renewed; note that this may mean the renewal
of that entire section of the loom - see your
local Ford dealer for details.
6 If the cleaner completely removes the
corrosion to leave the connector in a
satisfactory condition, it would be wise to
pack the connector with a suitable material
which will exclude dirt and moisture,
preventing the corrosion from occurring
again; a Ford dealer may be able to
recommend a suitable product.
7 Check the condition of the battery
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months1•13
5.2 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit of
failing at the worst possible time - to
prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them
carefully as shown here
1
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13Detach the fuel injectors from the fuel rail,
then remove the upper and lower seal from
each injector (see illustration) . All seals must
be renewed (even if only one injector is to be
renewed).
14 Prior to refitting the injectors, ensure that
all mating surfaces are perfectly clean.
Lubricate the new injector seals with clean
engine oil to ease their assembly to the
injectors.
15 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Refer to the Specificationsat the
start of this Chapter for the tightening torques.
When refitting the fuel rail, ensure that the
injectors are correctly located. Ensure that the
mating surfaces of the throttle housing are
perfectly clean before assembling.
16 On completion, restart the engine and
check the various fuel connections for any
signs of leaks.
Fuel pressure regulator
17 Relieve the residual pressure in the fuel
system (see Section 2), and equalise tank
pressure by removing the fuel filler cap. Warning: This procedure will
merely relieve the increased
pressure necessary for the
engine to run - remember that
fuel will still be present in the system
components, and take precautions
accordingly before disconnecting any of
them.
18 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1). 19
Release the fuel return pipe securing clip,
and detach the pipe from the regulator.
20 Pull free the vacuum pipe from the
regulator connector (see illustration).
21 Unscrew the two retaining bolts and
remove the regulator. Remove the old sealing
ring for renewal.
22 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Lubricate the new seal ring with clean engine oil
to ease assembly. When the regulator is refitted
and the fuel and vacuum lines are reconnected,
turn the ignition on and off five times (without
cranking the engine) and check for any sign of
fuel leaks before restarting the engine.
Idle speed control valve
Note: The idle speed control valve may be
mounted on the air cleaner, on the engine
compartment bulkhead, or on the side of the
inlet manifold according to valve make and
year of manufacture. Valves manufactured by
Weber are mounted on the air cleaner and
require periodic maintenance (see Chapter 1).
Bulkhead and inlet manifold mounted valves
are manufactured by Hitachi and are
maintenance free.
23 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
24 Disconnect the valve’s wiring multiplug
(see illustration) .
25 Where applicable disconnect the air
hose(s) from the valve.
26 Undo the two or four bolts (according to
type), and remove the valve from the air
cleaner, bulkhead or inlet manifold. 27
Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the mating faces are
clean before reassembling.
28 When the valve is refitted, restart the
engine and check that there are no induction
leaks. Run the engine until its normal
operating temperature is reached, and check
that the idle speed is stable. Stop the engine,
connect up a tachometer in accordance with
its maker’s instructions, then restart the
engine and check that the idle speed is as
specified with all electrical items (lights, heater
blower motor, etc) switched off, then on. The
idle speed should remain the same. Switch off
the electrical items, turn the engine off and
detach the tachometer to complete the test.
Throttle housing
29 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
30 Disconnect the ignition HT lead
connectors from the spark plugs, and release
the leads from their locating grooves in the air
inlet duct. Position them out of the way.
31 Remove the air inlet components as
described in Section 4.
32 Unscrew the retaining nuts and the bolt,
and detach the accelerator cable support
bracket at the throttle housing.
33 Disconnect the wiring connector from the
throttle position sensor.
34 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and
remove the throttle housing and its mating
face gasket (see illustration 14.7) .
35 Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Check that the mating faces are clean, and fit
a new gasket.
EEC IV engine management
module
Note: The module is fragile. Take care not to
drop it, or subject it to any other kind of
impact. Do not subject it to extremes of
temperature, or allow it to get wet. Refer to
Part B, Section 14 for illustrations of the
following procedure.
36 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
37 Unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the module cover in the engine
compartment, then carefully draw the cover
away from its location. Unscrew the module
multi-plug retaining bolt and disconnect
the multi-plug from the module.
38 The aid of an assistant will be required at
this stage, to support and withdraw the
module from inside the passenger
compartment as its mounting bracket retaining
tags are compressed and released from the
engine compartment. Do not allow the module
to drop into the passenger compartment as
irreparable damage is likely to result. The
module may be separated from its mounting
bracket by undoing the securing bolts.
39 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the module
mounting bracket retaining tags are felt to
snap into position
4C•6 Fuel system - electronic fuel injection engines
14.24 Disconnect the multi-plug from the idle speed control valve. Upper valve
retaining bolt (arrowed)14.20 Fuel pressure regulator showingvacuum pipe (A) and fuel return pipe
connection (B)
14.13 Remove the seals from the injectors14.12b . . . and withdraw the fuel rail and injectors
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25Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points: a) Renew the regulator sealing O-ring
whenever the regulator is disturbed.
Lubricate the new O-ring with clean
engine oil on installation.
b) Locate the regulator carefully in the fuel
rail recess, and tighten the bolts securely.
c) On completion, switch the ignition on and off five times, to activate the fuel pump
and pressurise the system, without
cranking the engine. Check for signs of
fuel leaks around all disturbed unions and
joints before attempting to start the
engine.
Idle speed control valve
26 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
27 Disconnect the valve’s wiring multi-plug
(see illustration) .
28 Unscrew the three retaining bolts, and
withdraw the valve from the inlet manifold.
29 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points: a) Clean the mating surfaces carefully, and
always fit a new gasket whenever the
valve is disturbed.
b) Once the wiring and battery are
reconnected, start the engine and allow it
to idle. When it has reached normal
operating temperature, check that the idle
speed is stable, and that no induction (air)
leaks are evident. Switch on all electrical loads (headlights, heated rear window,
etc), and check that the idle speed is still
satisfactory.
Mass air flow sensor
30
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
electrical connector from the sensor (see
illustration 4.2a) .
31 Release the two clips and detach the
sensor from the air cleaner cover (see
illustrations 4.2b and 4.2c) .
32 Slacken the clamp securing the sensor to
the air inlet hose, and withdraw the sensor.
33 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the sensor and air
cleaner cover are seated correctly and
securely fastened, so that there are no air
leaks.
EEC IV engine management
module
Note: The module is fragile. Take care not to
drop it, or subject it to any other kind of
impact. Do not subject it to extremes of
temperature, or allow it to get wet. Refer to
Part B, Section 14 for illustrations of the
following procedure.
34 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
35 Remove the cooling system expansion
tank as described in Chapter 3, for access to
the module multi-plug.
36 Unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the module cover in the engine
compartment, then carefully draw the cover
away from its location. Unscrew the module
multi-plug retaining bolt and disconnect
the multi-plug from the module.
37 The aid of an assistant will be required at
this stage, to support and withdraw the
module from inside the passenger
compartment as its mounting bracket retaining
tags are compressed and released from the
engine compartment. Do not allow the module
to drop into the passenger compartment as
irreparable damage is likely to result. The
module may be separated from its mounting
bracket by undoing the securing bolts.
38 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring that the module
mounting bracket retaining tags are felt to snap into position. Refit the expansion tank as
described in Chapter 3 on completion.
Crankshaft position sensor
39
Refer to Chapter 5B.
Camshaft position sensor
40Where applicable, release the fuel feed
and return hoses from their clip. On PTE
engines, detach the adjacent engine breather
hose.
41 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
sensor’s wiring multi-plug. Remove the
retaining screw, and withdraw the sensor from
the cylinder head; be prepared for slight oil
loss (see illustration) .
42 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points: a) Apply petroleum jelly or clean engine oil
to the sensor’s sealing O-ring.
b) Locate the sensor fully in the cylinder
head, and wipe off any surplus lubricant
before securing it.
c) Tighten the screw to the specified torque wrench setting.
Coolant temperature sensor
43 Refer to Chapter 3.
Inlet air temperature sensor
44Releasing its clip, unplug the sensor’s
electrical connector, then unscrew the sensor
from the inlet manifold (see illustration).
45 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Throttle position sensor
46 Releasing its wire clip, unplug the
sensor’s wiring multi-plug. Remove the
retaining screws, and withdraw the unit from
the throttle housing (see illustration). Do not
force the sensor’s centre to rotate past its
normal operating sweep; the unit will be
seriously damaged.
47 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points: a) Ensure that the sensor is correctly orientated, by locating its centre on the D-
shaped throttle shaft (throttle closed), and
aligning the sensor body so that the bolts
pass easily into the throttle housing.
4D•6 Fuel system - sequential electronic fuel injection engines
14.46 Throttle position sensor mounting screws (arrowed)14.44 Removing the intake air temperaturesensor from the rear of the inlet manifold
(Zetec engine shown)14.41 Disconnecting the camshaft positionsensor wiring multi-plug (Zetec engine
shown)
14.27 Idle speed control valve wiringmulti-plug (A) and visible mounting bolts (B)
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1 General information,precautions and battery
disconnection
General information
The engine electrical system consists
mainly of the charging and starting systems.
Because of their engine-related functions,
these components are covered separately
from the body electrical devices such as the
lights, instruments, etc (which are covered in
Chapter 12). Information on the ignition
system is covered in Part B of this Chapter.
The electrical system is of the 12-volt
negative earth type. The battery is of the low maintenance or
“maintenance-free” (sealed for life) type and is
charged by the alternator, which is belt-driven
from the crankshaft pulley. The starter motor is of the pre-engaged
type incorporating an integral solenoid. On
starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion
into engagement with the flywheel ring gear
before the starter motor is energised. Once
the engine has started, a one-way clutch
prevents the motor armature being driven by
the engine until the pinion disengages from
the flywheel.
Precautions
Further details of the various systems are
given in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
While some repair procedures are given, the
usual course of action is to renew the
component concerned. The owner whose
interest extends beyond mere component
renewal should obtain a copy of the
“Automobile Electrical & Electronic Systems
Manual” , available from the publishers of this
manual. It is necessary to take extra care when
working on the electrical system to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. In addition to the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual, observe the following when working
on the system:
Always remove rings, watches, etc before
working on the electrical system. Even with
the battery disconnected, capacitive
discharge could occur if a component’s live
terminal is earthed through a metal object.
This could cause a shock or nasty burn. Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as the alternator, electronic
control units, or any other components having
semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably
damaged. If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive-to-positive and negative-to-
negative (see “Jump starting” ). This also
applies when connecting a battery charger.
Never disconnect the battery terminals, the
alternator, any electrical wiring or any test instruments when the engine is running.
Do not allow the engine to turn the
alternator when the alternator is not
connected. Never “test” for alternator output by
“flashing” the output lead to earth.
Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
Always ensure that the battery negative lead
is disconnected when working on the
electrical system. Before using electric-arc welding
equipment on the car, disconnect the battery,
alternator and components such as the fuel
injection/ignition electronic control unit to
protect them from the risk of damage.
Battery disconnection
Several systems fitted to the vehicle require
battery power to be available at all times, either
to ensure that their continued operation (such as
the clock) or to maintain control unit memories
(such as that in the engine management
system’s ECU) which would be wiped if the
battery were to be disconnected. Whenever the
battery is to be disconnected therefore, first note
the following, to ensure that there are no
unforeseen consequences of this action:
a) First, on any vehicle with central locking, it is a wise precaution to remove the key
from the ignition, and to keep it with you,
so that it does not get locked in, if the
central locking should engage accidentally
when the battery is reconnected.
b) On cars equipped with an engine
management system, the system’s ECU will
lose the information stored in its memory -
referred to by Ford as the “KAM” (Keep-
Alive Memory) - when the battery is
disconnected. This includes idling and
operating values, and any fault codes
detected - in the case of the fault codes, if
it is thought likely that the system has
developed a fault for which the
corresponding code has been logged, the
vehicle must be taken to a Ford dealer for
the codes to be read, using the special
diagnostic equipment necessary for this.
Whenever the battery is disconnected, the
information relating to idle speed control
and other operating values will have to be
re-programmed into the unit’s memory.
The ECU does this by itself, but until then,
there may be surging, hesitation, erratic idle
and a generally inferior level of
performance. To allow the ECU to relearn
these values, start the engine and run it as
close to idle speed as possible until it
reaches its normal operating temperature,
then run it for approximately two minutes at
1200 rpm. Next, drive the vehicle as far as
necessary - approximately 5 miles of varied
driving conditions is usually sufficient - to
complete the relearning process.
c) If the battery is disconnected while the alarm system is armed or activated, the
alarm will remain in the same state when the battery is reconnected. The same
applies to the engine immobiliser system
(where fitted).
d) If a Ford “Keycode” audio unit is fitted,
and the unit and/or the battery is
disconnected, the unit will not function
again on reconnection until the correct
security code is entered. Details of this
procedure, which varies according to the
unit and model year, are given in the
“Ford Audio Systems Operating Guide”
supplied with the vehicle when new, with
the code itself being given in a “Radio
Passport” and/or a “Keycode Label” at
the same time. Ensure you have the
correct code before you disconnect the
battery. For obvious security reasons, the
procedure is not given in this manual. If
you do not have the code or details of the
correct procedure, but can supply proof
of ownership and a legitimate reason for
wanting this information, the vehicle’s
selling dealer may be able to help.
Devices known as “memory-savers” (or
“code-savers”) can be used to avoid some of
the above problems. Precise details vary
according to the device used. Typically, it is
plugged into the cigarette lighter, and is
connected by its own wires to a spare battery;
the vehicle’s own battery is then disconnected
from the electrical system, leaving the
“memory-saver” to pass sufficient current to
maintain audio unit security codes and ECU
memory values, and also to run permanently-
live circuits such as the clock, all the while
isolating the battery in the event of a short-
circuit occurring while work is carried out.
Warning: Some of these devices
allow a considerable amount of
current to pass, which can mean
that many of the vehicle’s
systems are still operational when the
main battery is disconnected. If a
“memory-saver” is used, ensure that the
circuit concerned is actually “dead” before
carrying out any work on it!
2 Electrical fault finding - general information
Refer to Chapter 12.
3 Battery -testing and charging
1
Standard and low maintenance
battery - testing
1If the vehicle covers a small annual mileage,
it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity
of the electrolyte every three months to
determine the state of charge of the battery.
Use a hydrometer to make the check and
compare the results with the following table.
5A•2 Starting and charging systems
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Ambient Ambient
temperature temperature
abovebelow
25°C (77°F) 25°C (77°F)
Fully-charged 1.210 to 1.230 1.270 to 1.290
70% charged 1.170 to 1.190 1.230 to 1.250
Fully-discharged 1.050 to 1.070 1.110 to 1.130
Note that the specific gravity readings
assume an electrolyte temperature of
15°C (60°F); for every 10°C (18°F) below 15°C
(60°F) subtract 0.007. For every 10°C (18°F)
above 15°C (60°F) add 0.007.
2 If the battery condition is suspect, first
check the specific gravity of electrolyte in
each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more
between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte
or deterioration of the internal plates.
3 If the specific gravity variation is 0.040 or
more, the battery should be renewed. If the
cell variation is satisfactory but the battery is
discharged, it should be charged as
described later in this Section.
Maintenance-free battery -
testing
4 In cases where a “sealed for life”
maintenance-free battery is fitted, topping-up
and testing of the electrolyte in each cell is not
possible. The condition of the battery can
therefore only be tested using a battery
condition indicator or a voltmeter.
5 If testing the battery using a voltmeter,
connect the voltmeter across the battery and
compare the result with those given in the
Specifications under “charge condition”. The
test is only accurate if the battery has not
been subjected to any kind of charge for the
previous six hours. If this is not the case,
switch on the headlights for 30 seconds, then
wait four to five minutes before testing the
battery after switching off the headlights. All
other electrical circuits must be switched off,
so check that the doors and tailgate are fully
shut when making the test.
6 If the voltage reading is less than 12.2 volts,
then the battery is discharged, whilst a
reading of 12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates a
partially discharged condition.
7 If the battery is to be charged, remove it
from the vehicle (Section 4) and charge it as
described later in this Section.
Standard and low maintenance
battery - charging
Note: The following is intended as a guide
only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery.
8 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to
4 amps and continue to charge the battery at
this rate until no further rise in specific gravity
is noted over a four hour period.
9 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at
the rate of 1.5 amps can safely be used
overnight.
10 Specially rapid “boost” charges which are
claimed to restore the power of the battery in 1 to 2 hours are not recommended, as they
can cause serious damage to the battery
plates through overheating.
11
While charging the battery, note that the
temperature of the electrolyte should never
exceed 37.8°C (100°F).
Maintenance-free battery -
charging
Note: The following is intended as a guide
only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery.
12 This battery type takes considerably
longer to fully recharge than the standard
type, the time taken being dependent on the
extent of discharge, but it can take anything
up to three days.
13 A constant voltage type charger is
required, to be set, when connected, to 13.9
to 14.9 volts with a charger current below
25 amps. Using this method, the battery
should be usable within three hours, giving a
voltage reading of 12.5 volts, but this is for a
partially discharged battery and, as
mentioned, full charging can take
considerably longer.
14 If the battery is to be charged from a fully
discharged state (condition reading less than
12.2 volts), have it recharged by your Ford
dealer or local automotive electrician, as the
charge rate is higher and constant supervision
during charging is necessary.
4 Battery -
removal and refitting
1
Note: Refer to the precautions in Section 1
before starting work.
Removal
1 The battery is located forward on the left-
hand side of the engine compartment, on a
platform welded to the vehicle structure.
2 Undo the retaining nut, then detach the
earth leads from the stud of the battery
negative (earth) terminal post. This is the
terminal to disconnect before working on, or
disconnecting, any electrical component on
the vehicle.
3 Pivot up the plastic cover from the positive
terminal, then unscrew the positive lead
retaining nut on the terminal. Detach the
positive lead from the terminal.
4 Release the clamp securing the battery to
its platform and remove it. Lift the battery
from its location, keeping it in an upright
position to avoid the possibility of corrosive
electrolyte spilling onto the paintwork.
5 Clean the battery terminal posts, clamps
and the battery casing. If the bulkhead is
rusted as a result of battery acid spilling onto
it, clean it thoroughly and re-paint with
reference to Chapter 1. 6
If you are renewing the battery, make sure
that you get one that’s identical, with the
same dimensions, amperage rating, cold
cranking rating, etc. Dispose of the old battery
in a responsible fashion. Most local authorities
have facilities for the collection and disposal
of such items - batteries contain sulphuric
acid and lead, and should not be simply
thrown out with the household rubbish!
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Smear the
battery terminals with a petroleum-based jelly
prior to reconnecting. Always connect the
positive terminal clamp first and the negative
terminal clamp last.
5 Charging system - testing
2
Note:Refer to the precautions in Section 1
before starting work.
1 If the ignition warning light fails to
illuminate when the ignition is switched on,
first check the alternator wiring connections
for security. If satisfactory, check that the
warning light bulb has not blown, and that
the bulbholder is secure in its location in the
instrument panel. If the light still fails to
illuminate, check the continuity of the
warning light feed wire from the alternator to
the bulbholder. If all is satisfactory, the
alternator is at fault and should be renewed
or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and
repair.
2 If the ignition warning light illuminates when
the engine is running, stop the engine and
check that the drivebelt is correctly tensioned
(see Chapter 1) and that the alternator
connections are secure. If all is so far
satisfactory, have the alternator checked by
an auto-electrician for testing and repair.
3 If the alternator output is suspect even
though the warning light functions correctly,
the regulated voltage may be checked as
follows.
4 Connect a voltmeter across the battery
terminals and start the engine.
5 Increase the engine speed until the
voltmeter reading remains steady; the
reading should be approximately 13.5 to
14.6 volts.
6 Switch on as many electrical accessories
(eg, the headlights, heated rear window and
heater blower) as possible, and check that the
alternator maintains the regulated voltage at
around 13 to 14 volts.
7 If the regulated voltage is not as stated, the
fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush
springs, a faulty voltage regulator, a faulty
diode, a severed phase winding or worn or
damaged slip rings. The alternator should be
renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for
testing and repair.
Starting and charging systems 5A•3
5A
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14Remove the rotor from the rear housing
and the stator. If difficulty is experienced, heat
the rear housing with a 200-watt soldering
iron for three or four minutes.
15 Unbolt the rectifier/brush box and stator
assembly from the rear housing (see
illustration) .
16 Unsolder the stator and brush box from
the rectifier, using the very minimum of heat.
Use a pair of pliers as a heat sink to reduce
the heat transference to the diodes
(overheating may cause diode failure).
17 Renew the brushes if they are worn down
to, or beyond, the minimum specified length.
Unsolder the brush wires at the points
indicated (see illustration) , then solder the
new brush leads so that the wear limit line
projects 2 to 3 mm from the end of the holder
(see illustration) .
18 Clean the slip rings with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning or severe pitting. If evident,
the slip rings should be attended to by an
automobile electrician. 19
Refit in the reverse order of removal.
Insert a piece of wire through the access hole
in the rear housing to hold the brushes in the
retracted position as the rotor is refitted (see
illustration) . Do not forget to release the
brushes when assembled.
8 Starting system - testing
1
Note:Refer to the precautions in Section 1
before starting work.
1 If the starter motor fails to operate when the
ignition key is turned to the appropriate
position, the following possible causes may
be to blame.
a) The battery is faulty.
b) The electrical connections between the
switch, solenoid, battery and starter
motor are somewhere failing to pass the
necessary current from the battery
through the starter to earth.
c) The solenoid is faulty.
d) The starter motor is mechanically or
electrically defective. 2
To check the battery, switch on the
headlights. If they dim after a few seconds,
this indicates that the battery is discharged -
recharge (see Section 3) or renew the battery.
If the headlights glow brightly, operate the
ignition switch and observe the lights. If they
dim, then this indicates that current is
reaching the starter motor, therefore the fault
must lie in the starter motor. If the lights
continue to glow brightly (and no clicking
sound can be heard from the starter motor
solenoid), this indicates that there is a fault in
the circuit or solenoid - see following
paragraphs. If the starter motor turns slowly
when operated, but the battery is in good
condition, then this indicates that either the
starter motor is faulty, or there is considerable
resistance somewhere in the circuit.
3 If a fault in the circuit is suspected,
disconnect the battery leads (including the
earth connection to the body), the starter/
solenoid wiring and the engine/transmission
earth strap. Thoroughly clean the
connections, and reconnect the leads and
wiring, then use a voltmeter or test lamp to
check that full battery voltage is available at
the battery positive lead connection to the
solenoid, and that the earth is sound. Smear
petroleum jelly around the battery terminals to
prevent corrosion - corroded connections are
amongst the most frequent causes of
electrical system faults.
5A•6 Starting and charging systems
7.19 Use a length of wire rod to hold
brushes in the retracted position when
reassembling the rotor to the housing on
the Mitsubishi alternator
7.17b Fitted position of new brush on a Mitsubishi alternator7.17a Unsoldering a brush wire on aMitsubishi alternator
7.15 Rectifier/brush box (1) and regulatorunit (3) retaining nuts on the Mitsubishialternator. Note that cap (2) covers the regulator nut
A Pulley nut
B Spring washer
C Pulley
D Through-bolt
E Retainer plate screw
F Drive end housing
G Bearing
H Bearing retaining plate J Spacer
K Rotor
L Spacer
M Slip ring end bearing
N Plug
P Cap
Q Terminal insulator
R Slip ring end housing S Rectifier
T Dust cover
V Regulator
W Brush spring
X Brush
Y Regulator screw
Z Stator
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Refitting
12To refit, engage the wheelarch moulding
into the clamp, align the moulding studs with
their wheelarch locations, then position the
moulding onto the wheelarch. Refit the four
fixing nuts to secure the upper part of the
moulding, but do not fully tighten.
13 Refit the plastic stud, but do not fully
tighten.
14 Offer the sill extension moulding to its
location, centring it between the front and rear
wheelarches to check the rear wheelarch
moulding alignment. Adjust the alignment as
necessary.
15 With the rear wheelarch moulding
alignment correct, fully tighten the fixing nuts
and the plastic stud.
16 Insert the rivet to secure the forward end
of the moulding.
17 Refit the sill extension moulding, as
described in Section 12.
15 Wind deflector/radiator grille slat - removal and refitting
1
Removal
1The radiator grille slat is secured to the front
bumper by three clips. To remove it, simply
slide the clips rearwards to release them, then
withdraw the grille slat from its bumper
locating holes.
2 If fitting a radiator grille slat to a service replacement bumper, two 8.0 mm diameter
holes will need to be drilled to accommodate
the grille slat end fixings and, in addition, a
12.0 mm square central hole must also be
made
(see illustration) .
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
16 Bumpers -
removal and refitting
2
Front bumper
Removal
1 Open the bonnet and disconnect the
auxiliary light multi-plugs, as applicable.
2 Remove the bumper retaining screws from
the leading edge of the wheelarch flanges,
then ease the bumper away from its
wheelarch location (see illustration).
3 Remove the bumper retaining nuts from the
reverse side of the body panel beneath the
headlights (see illustration) then, with the
help of an assistant, remove the bumper
assembly from the vehicle.
Refitting
4 To refit, (again with assistance) position the
bumper onto its panel, ensuring that the
retaining studs pass through their body locations, and that its ends align to the
wheelarches.
5
Loosely refit the bumper retaining nuts and
the bumper-to-wheelarch retaining screws.
6 Ensuring that the bumper is level, and that
an even gap is maintained between it and
surrounding body panels, tighten the retaining
nuts to the specified torque.
7 Tighten the bumper to wheelarch retaining
screws.
8 Refit the auxiliary light multi-plugs, as
applicable.
9 The alignment of light units requires the use
of optical beam setting equipment so, where
applicable, entrust this task to a Ford dealer.
Rear bumper (all models except
Courier)
Removal
10 Using a screwdriver or similar tool, prise
up the number plate light unit from the
rear bumper, being careful not to damage the
bumper. Disconnect the bulbholder and
remove from the bumper.
11 Remove the bumper-to-wheelarch
retaining screws as necessary (see
illustration) .
12 Open the tailgate then, using a suitably-
sized socket, remove the bumper retaining
nuts located inside the luggage compartment
(see illustration) .
13 Carefully remove the bumper from its
location.
Refitting
14 To refit, first align the bumper to the
vehicle body, ensuring that the ends engage
correctly at the wheelarches and the securing
studs enter through the body panel.
15 Refit the bumper-to-wheelarch inner rim
retaining screws, as applicable.
16 Refit the bumper retaining nuts, tightening
to the specified torque.
17 Reconnect the number plate light
bulbholder, then refit the light unit to the
bumper.
Rear bumper (Courier models)
Removal
18 Unscrew the two screws securing each
bumper end moulding to its respective wheel
Bodywork and fittings 11•7
16.2 Front bumper-to-wheelarch retaining screws (arrowed)15.2 Radiator grille slot fixing holes
required on service replacement bumpers (dimensions given in mm - see text)
16.12 Rear bumper retaining nut locations (arrowed)16.11 Rear bumper-to-wheelarch retainingscrews (arrowed)
16.3 Front bumper retaining nut location
11
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12
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Fuses - pre-1992 models
Main fuse board:
No Rating (amps) Circuit(s) protected
1 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . Electronic engine control system
2 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Interior light, cigarette lighter, clock and radio memory
3 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Central locking system
4 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Heated rear window element
5 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Dim-dip lighting
6 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand side lights and rear fog light
7 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand side lights
8 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand dipped beam
9 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand dipped beam
10 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand main beam and right-hand auxiliary driving light
11 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand main beam and left-hand auxiliary driving light
12 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Heater fan motor and reversing light
13 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Radiator cooling fan motor
14 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Front foglights (XR2i only)
15 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Horn
16 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Wiper motor and windscreen/tailgate washer pump
17 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Brake stop lights, instrument illumination and instrument warning
18 30 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Electrically operated windows
19 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Electric fuel pump
20 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Oxygen sensor (vehicles with catalytic converter)
21 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Left-hand direction indicators
22 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . Right-hand direction indicators
Chapter 12
Body electrical systems
Air bag (driver’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Air bag (passenger’s side) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . \
. . . . . . . 29
Air bag clock spring - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Air bag control module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Anti-theft systems - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Battery, bulbs and fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly checks”
Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cigarette lighter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Electric window regulator motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 20
Electrical fault-finding - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Exterior light units - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Fuses and relays - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Headlight and auxiliary light beam alignment - checking and
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 8
Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Instrument panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Instrument panel components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 10
“Lights-on” warning module - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Radio aerial - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Radio/cassette player - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Screen washer fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly checks”
Speaker balance control joystick - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 24
Speakers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Speedometer cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Tailgate remote release motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Tailgate wiper motor assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Windscreen wiper motor and linkage - removal and refitting . . . . . . 16
Windscreen wiper pivot shaft - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Windscreen/tailgate washer system components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 19
Wiper arms - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Wiper blade check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly checks”
12•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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