necessary for reassembly of the engine are at
hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, jointing and thread locking
compound will be needed during engine
reassembly. For general-purpose applications,
it is recommended that Loctite 275 setting
sealer or Hylomar PL32M non-setting sealer
be used for joints where required, and
Loctite 270 for stud and bolt thread-locking.
For specific applications on Zetec engines,
Hylosil 102 for the cylinder block/crankcase-
to-sump/oil pump/oil seal carrier joints, and
Loctite 518 for the camshaft right-hand
bearing caps should be used. These are
recommended by, and obtained from, Ford
dealers. In all other cases, provided the
relevant mating surfaces are clean and flat,
new gaskets will be sufficient to ensure joints
are oil-tight. Do notuse any kind of silicone-
based sealant on any part of the fuel system or
inlet manifold, and neveruse exhaust sealants
upstream of the catalytic converter.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be carried out in the
following order (as applicable).
a) Engine ventilation cap (CVH and PTE engines).
b) Tappets and camshaft (HCS engines).
c) Crankshaft and main bearings.
d) Pistons and connecting rods.
e) Oil pump.
f) Sump.
g) Flywheel/driveplate.
h) Cylinder head.
i) Timing sprockets and chain/belt.
j) Engine external components.
3 Ensure that everything is clean prior to
reassembly. As mentioned previously, dirt and
metal particles can quickly destroy bearings
and result in major engine damage. Use clean
engine oil to lubricate during reassembly.
16 Piston rings - refitting
2
1Before installing new piston rings, check
the end gaps. Lay out each piston set with a
piston/connecting rod assembly, and keep them together as a matched set from now on.
2
Insert the top compression ring into the first
cylinder, and square it up with the cylinder
walls by pushing it in with the top of the
piston. The ring should be near the bottom of
the cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel.
3 To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges
between the ends of the ring, until a gauge
equal to the gap width is found. The feeler
gauge should slide between the ring ends
with a slight amount of drag. Compare the
measurement to the value given in the
Specifications in this Chapter; if the gap is
larger or smaller than specified, double-check to make sure you have the correct rings
before proceeding. If you are assessing the
condition of used rings, have the cylinder
bores checked and measured by a Ford
dealer or similar engine reconditioning
specialist, so that you can be sure of exactly
which component is worn, and seek advice as
to the best course of action to take.
4 If the end gap is still too small, it must be
opened up by careful filing of the ring ends
using a fine file. If it is too large, this is not as
serious, unless the specified limit is exceeded,
in which case very careful checking is
required of the dimensions of all components,
as well as of the new parts.
5 Repeat the procedure for each ring that will
be installed in the first cylinder, and for each
ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to
keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
6 Refit the piston rings as follows. Where the
original rings are being refitted, use the marks
or notes made on removal, to ensure that
each ring is refitted to its original groove and
the same way up. New rings generally have
their top surfaces identified by markings
(often an indication of size, such as “STD”, or
the word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted with
such markings uppermost (see illustration) .
Note: Always follow the instructions printed
on the ring package or box - different
manufacturers may require different
approaches. Do not mix up the top and
second compression rings, as they usually
have different cross-sections.
7 The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is usually installed first. It is composed
of three separate elements. Slip the
spacer/expander into the groove. If an
anti- rotation tang is used, make sure it is
inserted into the drilled hole in the ring groove.
Next, install the lower side rail. Don’t use a
piston ring installation tool on the oil ring side
rails, as they may be damaged. Instead, place
one end of the side rail into the groove
between the spacer/expander and the ring
land, hold it firmly in place, and slide a finger
around the piston while pushing the rail into
the groove. Next, install the upper side rail in
the same manner.
8 After the three oil ring components have
been installed, check that both the upper and
lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the
ring groove.
9 The second compression (middle) ring is installed next, followed by the top
compression ring - ensure their marks are
uppermost, and be careful not to confuse
them. Don’t expand either ring any more than
necessary to slide it over the top of the piston.
10
On HCS engines, when all of the rings are
fitted to each piston, arrange them so that the
gaps are positioned as described in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter.
11 On the CVH and PTE engines, when all of
the rings are fitted to each piston, arrange
them so that the gaps are spaced at 120º
intervals, with no gaps positioned above the
gudgeon pin hole.
12 On Zetec engines, when all the rings are
fitted to each piston, space the ring gaps
(including the elements of the oil control ring)
uniformly around the piston at 120º intervals.
17 Crankshaft - refitting and
main bearing running
clearance check
4
1 It is assumed at this point that the cylinder
block/crankcase and crankshaft have been
cleaned, inspected and repaired or
reconditioned as necessary. Position the
engine upside-down.
2 Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and lift
out the caps. Lay the caps out in the proper
order, to ensure correct installation.
3 If they’re still in place, remove the old
bearing shells from the block and the main
bearing caps. Wipe the bearing recesses of
the block and caps with a clean, lint-free
cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!
Main bearing running clearance
check
HCS engines
4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase.
Note that the upper shells have grooves in
them (the lower shells are plain, and have a
wider location lug). Where the old main
bearings are being refitted, ensure that they
are located in their original positions. Make
sure that the tab on each bearing shell fits into
the notch in the block or cap.
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
faces. No lubrication should be used at
this time.
5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into
position in the crankcase, so that their oil
grooves are facing outwards (away from the
central web) (see illustration) .
CVH and PTE engines
6Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase.
Note that with the exception of the front main
bearing, the upper shells have grooves in
2D•22 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
16.6 Look for etched markings (“STD” -
indicating a standard-sized ring - shown
here) identifying piston ring top surface
1595Ford Fiesta Remakeprocarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su
then move the air distribution and
temperature controls fully to the right. Unclip
and remove the heater slide facia towards the
left-hand side of the vehicle, removing the
slide control knobs only as necessary, and
disconnecting its bulbholder (bayonet type) as
it is withdrawn.
12Remove the ashtray, then undo the three
screws from the base of the centre panel (see
illustration) . Detach the centre panel,
disconnecting the cigarette lighter
connections as it is withdrawn.
13 Squeeze the two release tabs together on
the heater fan motor control switch, and
remove it, disconnecting its multi-plug as it is
withdrawn. Remove the three heater control
panel securing screws (see Chapter 3).
14 Remove the switches from the centre
panel and disconnect their multi-plugs.
15 Using a thin flat-bladed screwdriver, prise
the clock from its location and disconnect its
multi-plug, as applicable.
16 Remove the fusebox lid, then remove the
two retaining screws and detach the fusebox
from the facia. 17
Disconnect the earth strap on the right-
hand side of the steering column mounting
bracket, by removing its securing bolt, and
remove any cable-ties fitted.
18 Open both front doors and disconnect the
multi-plugs in the A-pillars, where fitted, by
squeezing their ears and withdrawing.
19 Detach the door aperture weatherstrips
from the A-pillar and along the base of the
door aperture, on both front doors.
20 Remove both front door courtesy light
switches, disconnecting their loom
connections as they are withdrawn.
21 Remove the sill scuff plate retaining
screws on both sides of the vehicle.
22 Release the wiring loom from its securing
clips, under the sill scuff plates.
23 Remove the right-hand adjustable side
vent from the facia by carefully prising it out,
using a thin flat-bladed screwdriver, then
release the wiring loom loop from its facia
retaining clip through the resultant opening
(see illustration) .
24 Prise up the cover obscuring the central
facia retaining screw, using a thin flat-bladed screwdriver then remove the seven facia
retaining screws
(see illustration) .
25 Gently ease the facia from its location,
having ensured that all wires are clear to
move, then remove the cable-ties securing
the loom to the facia. Ensure that the loom is
free, then remove the facia from the vehicle.
The aid of an assistant, at this stage, is
recommended.
Refitting
26 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, noting the following points. Secure
the wiring loom loop to its clip and cable -tie
before refitting the facia retaining screws,
tightening its cable-tie, along with the rest,
when the viewing loom connections have
been pulled out through their relevant facia
openings. New cable-ties should be used.
Ensure that the multi-plugs seat correctly in
their A-pillar locations. When refitting the
instrument cluster, ensure that the tape mark
on the speedometer cable is positioned at the
bulkhead grommet (as applicable).
Bodywork and fittings 11•21
46.24 Facia retaining screw locations (arrowed)46.23 Wiring loom loop securing
arrangements on reverse side of facia
A Retaining clip B Cable tie46.12 Facia centre panel retaining screws (arrowed)
11
1595Ford Fiesta Remakeprocarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su