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Fig. 1: Clutch pedal with hydraulic linkage
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Fig. 2: Clutch pedal with mechanical linkage
5. Disconnect and remove the neutra l start switch at the pedal.
6. Remove the turn signal and hazard warning flasher mounting bracket.
7. Disconnect the clutch pedal rod from the pedal.
8. Remove the clutch pedal pivot bolt far enough to permit removal of pedal\
assembly.
9. Clean all parts and relubricate. Install in reverse of removal.
CLUTCH LINKAGE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the return spring and rods from the pedal and fork assembly.
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Fig. 1: Mechanical clutch linkage
3. Loosen the outboard ball stud nut and slid e stud out of the bracket slot.
4. Move the cross shaft outboard, as required to clear inboard ball stud,
then lift out from the vehicle.
5. Inspect the nylon bushing and anti-ra ttle O-ring for wear and replace as
required.
6. Installation is the reverse of th e removal procedure. Adjust linkage as
previously outlined.
DRIVEN DISC AND PRESURE PLATE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Support engine and remove the transmissi on (as outlined in this section).
2. Disconnect the clutch fork push rod and spring.
3. Remove the flywheel housing.
4. Slide the clutch fork from the ball stud and remove the fork from the dust
boot. The ball stud is threaded into the clutch housing and may be
replaced, if necessary.
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Fig. 1: Clutch assembly
5. Install an alignment tool to support the clutch assembly during removal.
Mark the flywheel and clutch cover for reinstallation, if they do not
already have X marks.
6. Loosen the clutch-to-flywheel attachi ng bolts evenly, one turn at a time,
until spring pressure is released. Remo ve the bolts and clutch assembly.
To install: 7. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel face.
8. Support the clutch di sc and pressure plate with an alignment tool. The
driven disc is installed with the damper springs on the transmission side.
9. Turn the clutch assembly until t he mark on the cover lines up with the
mark on the flywheel, then install t he bolts. Tighten down evenly and
gradually to avoid distortion.
10. Remove the alignment tool.
11. Lubricate the ball socket and fork fi ngers at the release bearing end with
high melting point greas e. Lubricate the recess on the inside of the
throwout bearing and throwout fork groove with a light coat of graphite
grease.
12. Install the clutch fork and dust boot into the housing. Install the throwout
bearing to the throwout fork. Insta ll the flywheel housing. Install the
transmission.
13. Connect the fork push rod and spri ng. Lubricate the spring and pushrod
ends.
14. Adjust the shift linkage and clutch pedal free-play.
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MASTER CYLINDER
Before removing the hydraulic compon
ents for repair, remove the clutch
housing dust cover to verify the malf unction. Measure the movement of the
slave cylinder push rod by pushing the cl utch pedal to the floor; the minimum
movement should be 14mm. Do not r eplace the cylinder if its movement
exceeds the minimum.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The clutch master cylinder is located in the engine compartment, on the left side
of the firewall, above the steering column.
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal from the battery.
2. Remove hush panel from under the dash.
3. Disconnect push rod from clutch pedal.
4. Disconnect hydraulic line from the clutch master cylinder.
Fig. 1: Hydraulic clutch system
5. Remove the master cylinder-to-cowl brace nuts. Remove master cylinder
and overhaul (if necessary).
6. Using a putty knife, clean th e master cylinder and cowl mounting
surfaces.
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7. To install, reverse the removal
procedures. Torque the master cylinder-
to-cowl brace nuts to 10-15 ft. lbs. (14-20 Nm). Fill master cylinder with
new hydraulic fluid conforming to DO T 3 specifications. Bleed and check
the hydraulic clutch system for leaks.
OVERHAUL 1. Remove the filler cap and drain fl uid from the master cylinder.
2. Remove the reservoir and seal from the master cylinder. Pull back the
dust cover and remove the snapring.
3. Remove the push rod assembly. Usi ng a block of wood, tap the master
cylinder on it to eject the plunger a ssembly from the cylinder bore.
4. Remove the seal (carefully) from the front of the plunger assembly,
ensuring no damage occurs to the plunger surfaces.
5. From the rear of t he plunger assembly, remove the spring, the support,
the seal and the shim.
6. Using clean brake fluid, clean all of the parts.
7. Inspect the cylinder bore and t he plunger for ridges, pitting and/or
scratches, the dust cover for wear and cracking; replace the parts if any
of the conditions exist.
To assemble: 8. Use new seals, lubric ate all of the parts in clean brake fluid, fit the
plunger seal to the plunger and reve rse the disassembly procedures.
9. Insert the plunger assembly, va lve end leading into the cylinder bore
(easing the entrance of the plunger seal).
10. Position the push rod assembly into the cylinder bore, then install a new
snapring to retain the push rod. Install dust cover onto the master
cylinder. Lubricate the inside of t he dust cover with Girling® Rubber
Grease or equivalent.
Be careful not to use any lubricant that will deteriorate rubber dust covers or
seals.
SLAVE CYLINDER
On vehicles equipped with a hydraulic clutch release mechanism, the slave
cylinder is located on the left side of the bellhousing and controls the clutch
release fork operation.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
3. Disconnect the hydraulic line from clutch master cylinder. Remove the
line-to-chassis screw and the c lip from the chassis.
Be sure to plug the line opening to k eep dirt and moisture out of the system.
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4. Remove the slave cyli
nder-to-bellhousing nuts.
5. Remove the push rod and the slav e cylinder from the vehicle, then
overhaul it (if necessary).
6. To install, reverse the removal pr ocedures. Lubricate leading end of the
slave cylinder with Girli ng® Rubber Lube or equiva lent. Torque the slave
cylinder-to-bellhousing nuts to 10-15 ft. lbs. (14-20 Nm). Fill the master
cylinder with new brake fluid conformi ng to DOT 3 specifications. Bleed
the hydraulic system.
OVERHAUL 1. Remove the shield, the pushrod and the dust cover from the slave cylinder, then inspect the cover for damage or deterioration.
2. Remove the snapring form t he end of the cylinder bore.
3. Using a block of wood, tap the slave cylinder on it to eject the plunger,
then remove the seal and the spring.
4. Using clean brake fluid, clean all of the parts.
5. Inspect the cylinder bore and the plunger for ridges, pitting and/or
scratches, the dust cover for wear and cracking; replace the parts if any
of the conditions exist.
To assemble: 6. Use new seals and lubricat e all of the parts in clean brake fluid. Install
the spring, the plunger seal and the plunger into the cylinder bore, then
install anew snapring.
7. Lubricate the inside of the dust co ver with Girling® Rubber Grease or
equivalent, then install it into the slave cylinder.
Be careful not to use any lubricant that will deteriorate rubber dust covers or
seals.
BLEEDING THE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH
Bleeding air from the hydrau lic clutch system is necessary whenever any part of
the system has been disconnect ed or the fluid level (in the reservoir) has been
allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the master cylinder.
1. Fill master cylinder reservoir wit h new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3
specifications.
2. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
3. Remove the slave cylinder attaching bolts.
4. Hold slave cylinder at approximatel y 45 degrees with the bleeder at
highest point. Fully depress clutch pedal and open the bleeder screw.
5. Close the bleeder screw and release clutch pedal.
6. Repeat the procedure until all of t he air is evacuated from the system.
Check and refill master cylinder reserv oir as required to prevent air from
being drawn through the master cylinder.
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Never release a depressed clutch pedal
with the bleeder screw open or air will
be drawn into the system.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
UNDERSTANDING AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS
The automatic transmission allows eng ine torque and power to be transmitted
to the rear wheels within a narrow range of engine operating speeds. It will
allow the engine to turn fast enough to produce plenty of power and torque at
very low speeds, while keeping it at a s ensible rpm at high vehicle speeds (and
it does this job without driv er assistance). The transmission uses a light fluid as
the medium for the transmission of power. This fluid also works in the operation
of various hydraulic control circui ts and as a lubricant. Because the
transmission fluid performs all of thes e functions, trouble within the unit can
easily travel from one part to another. For this reason, and because of the
complexity and unusual oper ating principles of the transmission, a very sound
understanding of the basic principles of operation will simplify troubleshooting.
TORQUE CONVERTER
The torque converter replaces the convent ional clutch. It has three functions:
1. It allows the engine to idle with t he vehicle at a standstill, even with the
transmission in gear.
2. It allows the transmission to shi ft from range-to-range smoothly, without
requiring that the driver close the throttle during the shift.
3. It multiplies engine torque to an incr easing extent as vehicle speed drops
and throttle opening is increased. This has the effect of making the
transmission more responsive and redu ces the amount of shifting
required.
The torque converter is a metal case which is shaped like a sphere that
has been flattened on opposite sides. It is bolted to the rear end of the
engine's crankshaft. Generally, the ent ire metal case rotates at engine
speed and serves as the engine's flywheel.
The case contains three sets of bl ades. One set is attached directly to
the case. This set forms the torus or pump. Another set is directly
connected to the output shaft, and forms the turbine. The third set is
mounted on a hub which, in turn, is mounted on a stationary shaft
through a one-way clutch. This third set is known as the stator.
A pump, which is driven by the conv erter hub at engine speed, keeps the
torque converter full of transmission fluid at all times. Fluid flows
continuously through the unit to provide cooling.
Under low speed acceleration, the tor que converter functions as follows: