1982 CHEVROLET CAMARO spark plugs replace

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 441
2. Remove the fan, driv
e belts and water pump pul ley. Remove the valve
cover. Loosen the rocker arms and pivot them, then remove the
pushrods.
3. Remove the oil pump driveshaft and gear assembly. This is located
under a small plate secured by two bol ts near the oil filter. Remove the
spark plugs.
4. Mark the position of the distribut or rotor, housing, and engine block.
Remove the distributor.
5. Remove the valve lifters. They are located behind the pushrod cover.
6. Remove the timing gear cover.
7. Insert a screwdriver through the holes in the ti ming gear and remove the
2 camshaft thrust plate screws.
8. Pull the camshaft and gear assembly out through the front of the engine
block.
When removing the camshaft, be careful not to damage the camshaft bearings.
9. If the camshaft is to be removed from the timing gear, place the assembly in an arbor press and s eparate. CAUTION When removing the
timing gear from the camshaft, the thrust plate must be positioned so that
the woodruff key does not damage it.
To install: 10. To install the timing gear to the camshaft, press the assembly together
and measure the end clearance. T here should be 0.0015-0.0050 in.
(0.038-0.127mm) between the thrust plate and the camshaft.
If the clearance is less than 0.0015 in. (0 .038mm), replace the spacer ring; if
more than 0.0050 in. (0.127mm), replace the thrust ring.
11. Lubricate the camshaft, bearings, and lifters. Slide the camshaft
assembly into the engine and align the timing marks of the camshaft gear
and crankshaft gear.
12. Complete the installation by reversing the removal procedure.
V6 AND V8 ENGINES 1. Remove the engine from the vehicl e or remove all components from the
front of the engine (radi ator, grille, etc.).
2. Remove the timing gear cover and chain.
3. Mark the distributor rotor, housi ng and engine block, then remove the
distributor. Remove the fuel pump and fuel pump pushrod on carbureted
engines.
4. Remove the intake manifold and valve covers. Loosen the rocker arms
and pivot out of way. Remove the pushrods and valve lifters.
5. Remove the oil pump drive.
6. Slide the camshaft toward the front of the engine (be careful not to
damage the camshaft bearings).

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SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE
Spark plug heat range is
the ability of the plug to dissipate heat. The longer the
insulator (or the farther it extends in to the engine), the hotter the plug will
operate; the shorter the insulator (the cl oser the electrode is to the block's
cooling passages) the cooler it will operate. A plug that absorbs little heat and
remains too cool will quickly accumulate deposits of oil and carbon since it is
not hot enough to burn them off. This leads to plug fouling and consequently to
misfiring. A plug that absorbs too much heat will have no deposits but, due to
the excessive heat, the electrodes will burn away quickly and might possibly
lead to preignition or other ignition probl ems. Preignition takes place when plug
tips get so hot that they gl ow sufficiently to ignite the air/fuel mixture before the
actual spark occurs. This early igniti on will usually cause a pinging during low
speeds and heavy loads.

Fig. 3: Spark plug heat range
The general rule of thumb for choosing the correct heat range when picking a
spark plug is: if most of your driving is long distanc e, high speed travel, use a
colder plug; if most of your driving is stop and go, use a hotter plug. Original
equipment plugs are general ly a good compromise between the 2 styles and
most people never have the need to change their plugs from the factory-
recommended heat range.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
A set of spark plugs usually requi res replacement after about 20,000-30,000
miles (32,000-48,000 km), depending on y our style of driving. In normal
operation plug gap increases about 0.001 in. (0.025mm) for every 2500 miles
(4000 km). As the gap increases, the plug' s voltage requirement also increases.
It requires a greater voltage to jump t he wider gap and about two to three times

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as much voltage to fire the plug at hi
gh speeds than at idle. The improved
air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injection combin ed with the higher voltage
output of modern ignition systems will often allow an engine to run significantly
longer on a set of standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that efficiency will
drop as the gap widens (along wit h fuel economy and power).
When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by
removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they
may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires
with tape.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cabl e, and if the vehicle has been run
recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.
2. Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and
remove the boot from the plug. Be su re to pull on the boot and not on the
wire, otherwise the connector locat ed inside the boot may become
separated.
3. Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well
to assure that no harmful contam inants are allowed to enter the
combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air
is not available, use a rag or a brush to clean the area.
Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage
to the threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of
penetrating oil or silicone spray to t he area around the base of the plug, and
allow it a few minutes to work.
4. Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to
properly hold the plug, turn the spar k plug counterclockwise to loosen
and remove the spark pl ug from the bore.
WARNING - Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a
flexible extension may allow a shear fo rce to be applied to the plug. A shear
force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly a\
nd
frustrating repairs.
To install:
5. Inspect the spark plug boot for t ears or damage. If a damaged boot is
found, the spark plug wire must be replaced.
6. Using a wire feeler gauge, check and adjust the spark plug gap. When
using a gauge, the proper size shoul d pass between the electrodes with
a slight drag. The next larger size should not be able to pass while the\

next smaller size should pass freely.
7. Carefully thread the plug into the bor e by hand. If resistance is felt before
the plug is almost completely th readed, back the plug out and begin
threading again. In small, hard to r each areas, an old spark plug wire and
boot could be used as a th reading tool. The boot will hold the plug while
you twist the end of the wire and t he wire is supple enough to twist
before it would allow t he plug to crossthread.

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WARNING
- Do not use the spark plug socke t to thread the plugs. Always
carefully thread the plug by hand or us ing an old plug wire to prevent the
possibility of crossthreading and damaging the cylinder head bore.
8. Carefully tighten the spark plug. If the plug you are installing is equipped
with a crush washer, seat the plug, then tighten about
1/4 turn to crush
the washer. If you are installing a t apered seat plug, tighten the plug to
specifications provided by the vehicle or plug manufacturer.
9. Apply a small amount of silicone di electric compound to the end of the
spark plug lead or inside the spark pl ug boot to prevent sticking, then
install the boot to the spark plug and pus h until it clicks into place. The
click may be felt or hear d, then gently pull back on the boot to assure
proper contact.
INSPECTION & GAPPING
Check the plugs for deposits and wear. If they are not going to be replaced,
clean the plugs thoroughly. Remember t hat any kind of deposit will decrease
the efficiency of the plug. Plugs can be cleaned on a spark plug cleaning
machine, which can sometimes be found in service stations, or you can do an
acceptable job of cleaning with a stiff br ush. If the plugs are cleaned, the
electrodes must be filed flat. Use an igni tion points file, not an emery board or
the like, which will leave deposits. The electrodes must be filed perfectly flat
with sharp edges; rounded edges reduce the s park plug voltage by as much as
50%.
Check spark plug gap before installati on. The ground electrode (the L-shaped
one connected to the body of the plug) mu st be parallel to the center electrode
and the specified size wire gauge (please refer to the Tune-Up Specifications
chart for details) must pass between t he electrodes with a slight drag.
NEVER adjust the gap on a used platinum type spark plug .
Always check the gap on new plugs as they are not always set correctly a\
t the
factory. Do not use a flat feeler g auge when measuring the gap on a used plug,
because the reading may be inaccurate. A round-wire type gapping tool is the
best way to check the gap. The co rrect gauge should pass through the
electrode gap with a slight drag. If you're in doubt, try one size smaller and one
larger. The smaller gauge should go through easily, while the larger one\

shouldn't go through at all. Wire gapping tools usually have a bending tool
attached. Use that to adjust the side electrode until the proper distance is
obtained. Absolutely never attempt to bend the center electrode. Also, be
careful not to bend the side electrode too fa r or too often as it may weaken and
break off within the engine, requiring remova l of the cylinder head to retrieve it.

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In the HEI system, as in other electr
onic ignition systems, the breaker points
have been replaced wit h an electronic switch - a tr ansistor - which is located
within the ignition module. This switching transistor pe rforms the same function
the points did in a conventi onal ignition system; it simply turns the coil's primary
current on and off at the correct time. Essentially, electronic and conventional
ignition systems operate on t he same principle.
The module which houses the switching transistor is controlled (turned on and
off) by a magnetically gener ated impulse induced in the pickup coil. When the
teeth of the rotating timer align with t he teeth of the pole piece, the induced
voltage in the pickup coil signals the elec tronic module to open the coil primary
circuit. The primary current then decreases, and a high voltage is induced in the
ignition coil secondary windings, which is then directed through the rotor and
high voltage leads (spark plug wires) to fire the spark plugs.
In essence, the pickup coil module system simply replaces the conventional
breaker points and condenser. The condenser found within the distributor is for
radio suppression purposes only and has nothing to do with the ignition
process. The ignition module automatically controls the dwell period, increasing
it with increasing en gine speed. Since dwell is co ntrolled in this manner, it
cannot be adjusted. The module itse lf is non-adjustable/non-repairable and
must be replaced if found defective.
SYSTEM PRECAUTIONS
Before proceeding with troubleshooting, ta ke note of the following precautions:
TIMING LIGHT USE
Care should be exercised when connec ting a timing light or other pick-up
equipment. Do not force anything between the boots and wiring, or through the
silicone jacket. Connections should be made in parallel using an adapter.
Inductive pickup timing lights are the bes t kind to use with the ignition systems
covered by this information.
SPARK PLUG WIRES
The plug wires used with these systems are of a different construction than
conventional wires. When replacing them, make sure you get the correct wires,
since conventional wires will not carry the voltage. Also, handle the wires
carefully to avoid cracking or splitti ng them, and NEVER pierce the wires.
TACHOMETER USE
Not all tachometers will operate or indi cate correctly when used on an HEI or
C
3I system. While some tachometers ma y give a reading, this does not
necessarily mean the reading is correct. In addition, some tachometers hook up
differently from others. If you cannot fi gure out whether or not your tachometer
will work on your car, check with the tachometer manufacturer.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 641
If, however, there is no spark or a weak
spark, then further ignition system
testing will have to be done. Troubleshooting techniques fall into various
categories, depending on t he nature of the problem and the system being
tested. Categories will include symptom s such as the engine cranks, but will not
start or the engine runs rough.
HEI SYSTEM
When testing the HEI system, there are 2 major categories of problems, (1)
Engine cranks, but will not star t or (2) Engine runs, but runs rough or cuts out.
If the engine will not start, perform a spar k test as described earlier. This will
narrow the problem area down considerab ly. If no spark occurs, check for the
presence of normal battery voltage at the battery ( BAT) terminal on the ignition
coil. The ignition switch must be in the ON position for this test. Either a
voltmeter or a test light wire may be us ed for this test. Connect the test light
wire to ground and the probe end to the BAT terminal at the coil. If the light
comes on, you have voltage to the distribut or and/or spark plug wires. If the light
fails to come on, this indicates an open circuit in the ignition primary wiring
leading to the distributor. In this case , you will have to check wiring continuity
back to the ignition switch using a test li ght. If there is battery voltage at the BAT
terminal, but no spark at the plugs, t hen the problem probably lies within the
distributor assembly.
If, on the other hand, the engine starts, but runs roughly or cuts out, make sure
the plug wires are in good shape first. There should be no obvious cracks or
breaks. You can check the plug wires with an ohmmeter, but do not pierce the
wires with a probe. Check the chart for th e correct plug wire resistance. If the
plug wires are OK, remove the cap asse mbly and check for moisture, cracks,
chips, or carbon tracks, or any other hi gh voltage leads or failures. Replace the
cap if any defects are found. Make su re the timer wheel rotates when the
engine is cranked.
If the trouble has been narrowed down to t he units within the distributor, the
following tests can help pinpoint the defective component. An ohmmeter with
both high and low ranges shou ld be used. These tests are made with the cap
assembly removed and the battery wir e disconnected. If a tachometer is
connected to the TACH terminal, disconnect it before making these tests.
IGNITION COIL
EXTERNALLY MOUNTED 1. Disconnect the coil wires and se t the ohmmeter on the high scale.
2. Connect the ohmmeter to the ignition co il as illustrated in Step 1 of the
accompanying figure.
3. The ohmmeter should read near infinite or very high.

GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 654
spark plug must fire 5° before each pist
on reaches TDC. This only holds true,
however, when the engine is at idle speed.
As the engine speed increases, the pist ons go faster. The spark plugs have to
ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston
reaches TDC.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (B TDC), the ignition and expansion of the
fuel in the cylinder will occu r too soon and try to force the piston down while it is
still traveling up. This causes engine ping. If the ignition spark is set too far
retarded, after TDC (ATDC), the pi ston will have already passed TDC and
started on its way down when the fuel is igni ted. This will cause the piston to be
forced down for only a portion of its trav el, resulting in poor engine performance
and lack of power.
When timing the engine, the Number 1 pl ug wire should be used to trigger the
timing light. On engines where timing is adjustable, the notch for the No. 1
cylinder is usually scribed across all th ree edges of the double sheaf pulley.
Another notch located 180° away from t he No. 1 cylinder notch is scribed only
across the center section of the pulley to make it distinguishable from the No. 1
cylinder notch.
There are two basic types of timing light s available. The first type of light
operates from the car's battery. Two al ligator clips connect to the battery
terminals, while a third wire connects to the spark plug with an adapter or to the
spark plug wire with an inductive pickup. This type of light is more expensive,
but the xenon bulb provides a nice bright flash which can even be seen in
sunlight. The second type replaces the battery source with 110-volt house
current. Some timing lights have other func tions built into them, such as dwell
meters, tachometers, or re mote starting switches. These are convenient, in that
they reduce the tangle of wires under t he hood, but may duplicate the functions
of tools you already have.
Because this car uses electronic ignition, you should use a timing light with an
inductive pickup. This pickup simply cl amps around the Number 1 spark plug
wire (in this case, the coil wire), elimin ating the adapter. It is not susceptible to
crossfiring or false triggering, which ma y occur with a conventional light due to
the greater voltages produc ed by these systems.
ADJUSTMENT
When adjusting the timing, refer to the instructions on the emission control
sticker inside the engine compartment. If th e instructions on the label disagree
with the procedure listed below, follo w the instructions on the label.
1982-87 VEHICLES 1. Locate the timing marks on the cran kshaft pulley and the front of the
engine.

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GENERAL INFORMATION & MAINTENANCE

HOW TO USE THIS INFORMATION
The introductory part of this repair gui de is intended to help you learn more
about the inner workings of your Camaro while saving you money on its upkeep
and operation.
The beginning of the repair guide will likely be referred to the most, since that is
where you will find information for maintenance and tune-up. The other
information deals with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Systems
(from engine through brakes) are covered to the extent that the average do-it-
yourselfer can attempt. This repair guide will not explain such things as
rebuilding a differential because the ex pertise required and the special tools
necessary make this uneconomical. It will, however, give you detailed
instructions to help you change your own brake pads and shoes, replace spark
plugs, and perform many more jobs that can save you money and help avoid
expensive problems.
A secondary purpose of this repair guide is a reference for owners who want to
understand their vehicle and/or their mechanics better.
WHERE TO BEGIN
Before removing any bolts, read through t he entire procedure. This will give you
the overall view of what tools and supplies will be required. So read ahead and
plan ahead. Each operation should be approached logically and all procedures
thoroughly understood before attempting any work.
If repair of a component is not considered practical, we tell you how to remove
the part and then how to insta ll the new or rebuilt replacement. In this way, you
at least save labor costs.
AVOIDING TROUBLE
Many procedures in this repair guide r equire you to "label and disconnect ..." a
group of lines, hoses or wires. Don't be think you can remember where
everything goes - you won't. If you hook up va cuum or fuel lines incorrectly, the
vehicle may run poorly, if at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you
may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.
You don't need to know the proper name for each hose or line. A piece of
masking tape on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to assign your
own label. As long as you remember your own code, the lines can be
reconnected by matching your tags. Re member that tape will dissolve in
gasoline or solvents; if a part is to be washed or cleaned, use another method
of identification. A permanent felt-tipped marker or a metal scribe can be very
handy for marking metal parts. Remove any tape or paper labels after
assembly.