GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 391
8. Remove the plenum attaching bolts and plenum. Discard the gaskets.
9. Remove the fuel rail.
10. Label and unplug the wires
from the spark plugs.
11. Label and unplug the wires at the coil.
12. Remove the distributor cap and spark plug wires.
13. Mark the distributor position and remove it.
14. Label and disconnect the emission canister hoses.
15. Remove the valve covers.
16. Remove the upper radiator hose at the manifold.
17. Unplug the coolant switch and sensor.
18. Remove the heater inlet pipe from the manifold.
19. Remove the center intake manifold bolts.
20. Remove the center intake mani fold and gasket. Discard the gasket.
21. Remove the transmission dipstick.
22. Remove the manifold bolts.
23. Remove the manifold. Discard t he gaskets and remove the RTV sealant
from the front and rear ridges of the block.
To install: 24. Apply a
3/16 in. (5mm) bead of RTV sealant on the front and rear ridges of
the block. Make sure the surfaces are clean.
25. Install the new gaskets on the cylinder heads. Hold the gaskets in place by extending the RTV bead up onto t he gasket ends. Certain GM intake
gaskets will have to be cut to be install behind the pushrods. Cut these
gaskets as required and only where necessary.
26. Install the intake m anifold along with the intake manifold bolts. Torque
bolts in sequence to 13-25 ft. lbs. ( 18-34 Nm) on 2.8L engines and 19 ft
lbs. (26 Nm) on 3.1L engines.
27. Install the center intake manifold with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts to
15 ft lbs. (21 Nm).
28. Connect the coolant switches.
29. Install the upper radiator hose.
30. Install the valve covers.
31. Install the heater inlet pipe.
32. Connect the emission canister hoses.
33. Install the distributor to the matc hmarks, hold down bolt, spark plug wires
and distributor cap.
34. Install the spark plug wires to th e spark plugs and connect the wires at
the coil.
35. Install the fuel rail.
36. Install the plenum with new gaskets . Tighten the bolts to 18 ft lbs. (25
Nm) on 2.8L engines or 15 ft lbs. (21 Nm) on 3.1L engines.
37. Install the A/C compressor-to-plenum bracket and attaching hardware.
38. Install the EGR transfer tube with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts to 19 ft
lbs. (26 Nm).
39. Install the throttle body.
40. Connect the vacuum harness and ai r inlet duct to the throttle body.
41. Install the transmission dipstick.
42. Connect and other rema ining hoses or wires.
GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 411
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure
and drain the engine coolant from the
radiator into a suitable container.
3. Remove the intake manifold and the spark plugs.
4. Remove the dipstick tube and bra cket. Raise and support the vehicle
safely. Drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Lower the vehicle.
5. Remove the exhaust manifolds.
6. Remove the drive belt(s).
7. Remove the air conditioning compresso r and bracket, reposition it aside.
Do not disconnect the lines.
8. Remove the power steering pump and bracket, reposition it aside.
9. Remove the alternator and br acket, reposition it aside.
10. Remove the ground cable from the rear of the cylinder head and remove
the engine lift bracket.
11. Remove the rocker arm covers.
12. Loosen the rocker arms until the pushrods can be removed.
13. Remove the cylinder head bolts and remove the cylinder heads.
To install: 14. Clean the gasket mating surfaces of all components. Be careful not to
nick or scratch any surfaces as this will allow leak paths. Clean the bolt
threads in the cylinder bl ock and on the head bolts. Dirt will affect bolt
torque.
15. Place the head gaskets in pos ition over the dowel pins.
16. Install the cylinder heads.
17. Coat the cylinder head bolts th reads with GM sealer 1052080 or
equivalent, and install the bolts. Tight en the bolts in the proper sequence
to:
• 1982-1987 engines: 70 ft lbs. (90 Nm)
• 1988-1992 engines: 1st step: 40 ft lbs. (55 Nm); 2nd step: tighten
an additional 1/4 (90 degree) turn
18. Install the pushrods a nd loosely retain them wit h the rocker arms. Make
sure the lower ends of the pushrods ar e in the lifter seats. Refer to the
rocker arm procedures outlined ea rlier in this section.
19. Install the power steering pump br acket and pump. Do the same for the
air conditioning compressor bracket and compressor.
20. Install the ground cable to t he rear of the cylinder head.
21. Install the exhaust manifolds.
22. Install the dipstick tube and bracket.
23. Install the intake manifold.
24. Install the alternator bracket and alternator.
25. Install the drive belt(s).
26. Install the spark plugs.
27. Fill the cooling system with the proper type and quantity of coolant. Install
a new oil filter and fill the crankca se with the proper type and quantity of
oil.
28. Connect the negative battery cable, star t the vehicle and check for leaks.
GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 441
2. Remove the fan, driv
e belts and water pump pul ley. Remove the valve
cover. Loosen the rocker arms and pivot them, then remove the
pushrods.
3. Remove the oil pump driveshaft and gear assembly. This is located
under a small plate secured by two bol ts near the oil filter. Remove the
spark plugs.
4. Mark the position of the distribut or rotor, housing, and engine block.
Remove the distributor.
5. Remove the valve lifters. They are located behind the pushrod cover.
6. Remove the timing gear cover.
7. Insert a screwdriver through the holes in the ti ming gear and remove the
2 camshaft thrust plate screws.
8. Pull the camshaft and gear assembly out through the front of the engine
block.
When removing the camshaft, be careful not to damage the camshaft bearings.
9. If the camshaft is to be removed from the timing gear, place the assembly in an arbor press and s eparate. CAUTION When removing the
timing gear from the camshaft, the thrust plate must be positioned so that
the woodruff key does not damage it.
To install: 10. To install the timing gear to the camshaft, press the assembly together
and measure the end clearance. T here should be 0.0015-0.0050 in.
(0.038-0.127mm) between the thrust plate and the camshaft.
If the clearance is less than 0.0015 in. (0 .038mm), replace the spacer ring; if
more than 0.0050 in. (0.127mm), replace the thrust ring.
11. Lubricate the camshaft, bearings, and lifters. Slide the camshaft
assembly into the engine and align the timing marks of the camshaft gear
and crankshaft gear.
12. Complete the installation by reversing the removal procedure.
V6 AND V8 ENGINES 1. Remove the engine from the vehicl e or remove all components from the
front of the engine (radi ator, grille, etc.).
2. Remove the timing gear cover and chain.
3. Mark the distributor rotor, housi ng and engine block, then remove the
distributor. Remove the fuel pump and fuel pump pushrod on carbureted
engines.
4. Remove the intake manifold and valve covers. Loosen the rocker arms
and pivot out of way. Remove the pushrods and valve lifters.
5. Remove the oil pump drive.
6. Slide the camshaft toward the front of the engine (be careful not to
damage the camshaft bearings).
GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 466
wear. Worn piston rings, scored or wo
rn cylinder bores, blown head gaskets,
sticking or burnt valves, and worn valve seats are all possible culprits. A check
of each cylinder's compression will help locate the problem.
A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate than the type you simply
hold against the spark plug hole. Although it takes slightly longer to use, it's
worth the effort to obtain a more accurate reading.
1. Make sure that the proper amount and viscosity of engine oil is in the
crankcase, then ensure the battery is fully charged.
2. Warm-up the engine to normal operat ing temperature, then shut the
engine OFF.
3. Disable the ignition system.
4. Label and disconnect all of the spark plug wires from the plugs.
5. Thoroughly clean the cylinder h ead area around the spark plug ports,
then remove the spark plugs.
6. Set the throttle plate to the fully open (wide-open throttle) position. You
can block the accelerator linkage open for this, or you can have an
assistant fully depress the accelerator pedal.
Fig. 1: A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate and easier to use
without an assistant
7. Install a screw-in type compression gauge into the No. 1 spark plug hole
until the fitting is snug.
WARNING - Be careful not to crossthread the spark plug hole.
GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 470
•
Never hot tank aluminum parts (the c austic hot tank solution will eat the
aluminum.
• Remove all aluminum parts (identif ication tag, etc.) from engine parts
prior to the tanking.
• Always coat threads lightly with engine oil or anti-seize compounds
before installation, to prevent seizure.
• Never overtighten bolts or spark plugs especially in aluminum threads.
When assembling the engine, any parts that will be exposed to frictional contact
must be prelubed to provide lubricatio n at initial start-up. Any product
specifically formulated for this purpos e can be used, but engine oil is not
recommended as a prelube in most cases.
When semi-permanent (locked, but removabl e) installation of bolts or nuts is
desired, threads should be cleaned and coat ed with Loctite® or another similar,
commercial non-hardening sealant.
CLEANING
Before the engine and its components ar e inspected, they must be thoroughly
cleaned. You will need to remove any eng ine varnish, oil sludge and/or carbon
deposits from all of the com ponents to insure an accurate inspection. A crack in
the engine block or cylinder head can eas ily become overlooked if hidden by a
layer of sludge or carbon.
Fig. 1: Use a gasket scraper to remove t he old gasket material from the mating
surfaces
GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 626
ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND TUNE-UP
TUNE-UP PROCEDURES
In order to extract the full measure of performance and economy from your
engine it is essential that it is properly tuned at regul ar intervals. A regular tune-
up will keep your Camaro's engine running smoothly and will prevent the
annoying breakdowns and poor perform ance associated with an untuned
engine.
A complete tune-up should be performed every 30,000 miles (48,000 km). This
interval should be halved if the car is operated under severe conditions such as
trailer towing, prolonged idling, start-and- stop driving, or if starting or running
problems are noticed. It is assumed that the routine maintenance described in
General Information & Maintenance has been kept up, as this will have a
decided effect on the result s of a tune-up. All of the applicable steps of a tune-
up should be followed in order, as the result is a cumulative one.
If the specifications on the underhoo d tune-up sticker in the engine
compartment of your car disagree with th e "Tune-Up Specifications" chart in this
Section, the figures on the sticker must be used. The sticker often reflects
changes made during t he production run.
SPARK PLUGS
A typical spark plug consists of a metal shell surrounding a ceramic insulator. A
metal electrode extends downward through the center of the insulator and
protrudes a small distance. Located at the end of the plug and attached to the
side of the outer metal shell is the side el ectrode. The side electrode bends in at
a 90 angle so that its tip is just pas t and parallel to the tip of the center
electrode. The distance between these two electrodes (measured in
thousandths of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter) is called the spark plug
gap.
The spark plug does not pr oduce a spark, but instead provides a gap across
which the current can arc. The coil produces anywhere from 20,000 to 50,000
volts (depending on the type and application) which travels through the wires to
the spark plugs. The current passes along the center electrode and jumps the
gap to the side electrode, and in doing so, ignites the air/fuel mixture in the
combustion chamber.
GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 628
SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE
Spark plug heat range is
the ability of the plug to dissipate heat. The longer the
insulator (or the farther it extends in to the engine), the hotter the plug will
operate; the shorter the insulator (the cl oser the electrode is to the block's
cooling passages) the cooler it will operate. A plug that absorbs little heat and
remains too cool will quickly accumulate deposits of oil and carbon since it is
not hot enough to burn them off. This leads to plug fouling and consequently to
misfiring. A plug that absorbs too much heat will have no deposits but, due to
the excessive heat, the electrodes will burn away quickly and might possibly
lead to preignition or other ignition probl ems. Preignition takes place when plug
tips get so hot that they gl ow sufficiently to ignite the air/fuel mixture before the
actual spark occurs. This early igniti on will usually cause a pinging during low
speeds and heavy loads.
Fig. 3: Spark plug heat range
The general rule of thumb for choosing the correct heat range when picking a
spark plug is: if most of your driving is long distanc e, high speed travel, use a
colder plug; if most of your driving is stop and go, use a hotter plug. Original
equipment plugs are general ly a good compromise between the 2 styles and
most people never have the need to change their plugs from the factory-
recommended heat range.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
A set of spark plugs usually requi res replacement after about 20,000-30,000
miles (32,000-48,000 km), depending on y our style of driving. In normal
operation plug gap increases about 0.001 in. (0.025mm) for every 2500 miles
(4000 km). As the gap increases, the plug' s voltage requirement also increases.
It requires a greater voltage to jump t he wider gap and about two to three times
GM – CAMARO 1982-1992 – Repair Guide (Checked by WxMax) 629
as much voltage to fire the plug at hi
gh speeds than at idle. The improved
air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injection combin ed with the higher voltage
output of modern ignition systems will often allow an engine to run significantly
longer on a set of standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that efficiency will
drop as the gap widens (along wit h fuel economy and power).
When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by
removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they
may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires
with tape.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cabl e, and if the vehicle has been run
recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.
2. Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and
remove the boot from the plug. Be su re to pull on the boot and not on the
wire, otherwise the connector locat ed inside the boot may become
separated.
3. Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well
to assure that no harmful contam inants are allowed to enter the
combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air
is not available, use a rag or a brush to clean the area.
Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage
to the threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of
penetrating oil or silicone spray to t he area around the base of the plug, and
allow it a few minutes to work.
4. Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to
properly hold the plug, turn the spar k plug counterclockwise to loosen
and remove the spark pl ug from the bore.
WARNING - Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a
flexible extension may allow a shear fo rce to be applied to the plug. A shear
force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly a\
nd
frustrating repairs.
To install:
5. Inspect the spark plug boot for t ears or damage. If a damaged boot is
found, the spark plug wire must be replaced.
6. Using a wire feeler gauge, check and adjust the spark plug gap. When
using a gauge, the proper size shoul d pass between the electrodes with
a slight drag. The next larger size should not be able to pass while the\
next smaller size should pass freely.
7. Carefully thread the plug into the bor e by hand. If resistance is felt before
the plug is almost completely th readed, back the plug out and begin
threading again. In small, hard to r each areas, an old spark plug wire and
boot could be used as a th reading tool. The boot will hold the plug while
you twist the end of the wire and t he wire is supple enough to twist
before it would allow t he plug to crossthread.