1988 PONTIAC FIERO Service Repair Manual

3.4 STEERING, SUSPENSION, TIRES AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS
e Excessive pitman shaft to ball nut lash in steering
gear
e Worn intermediate rod or tie rod sockets
Excessive Looseness in Tie Rod or Intermediate
Rod Pivots, or Excessive Vertical Lash in
Idler
Support
Inspect -
e Seal damage and leakage resulting in loss of
lubricant, corrosion and excessive wear
Hard Steering
0 Inspect
e Tight or frozen intermediate rod, tie rod or idler
socket
e Steering gear adjusted too tight
POWER STEERING PUMP DIAGNOSIS
Foarning, Milky Power Steering Fluid, Low Fluid
Level, and Possible Low Pressure
This can be caused by air in the fluid, and loss of
fluid due to internal pump leakage causing overflow.
Check for leak and correct. Bleed the system.
Extremely cold temperatures will cause air bubbles in
the system if the fluid level is low. If the fluid level is
correct and pump still foams, remove pump from car
and separate reservoir from housing. Check soft plug
and housing for cracks. If housing is cracked, replace
housing.
Low Pressure Due to Steering Pump
Inspect
e Flow control valve stuck or inoperative
e Pressure plate not flat against cam ring
e Extreme wear of cam ring
e Scored pressure plate, thrust plate or rotor
e Vanes sticking in rotor slots
Q Cracked or broken thrust or pressure plate
e High internal leakage
Low Pressure Due To Steering Gear
Inspect
e Scored housing bore
Q Leakage at valve rings or seals
Growling Noise in Steering Pump
Inspect
e Excessive back pressure in hoses or steering gear
caused by restriction
e Scored pressure plates, thrust plate or rotor
e Worn cam ring
Groaning Noise in Steering Pump
Inspect
e Air in the fluid
Low fluid level
Q Pump mounting loose
Rattling Noise in Steering Pump
Inspect - -
e Vanes sticking in rotor slots
o Vane improperly installed
o Damaged ball bearing
Swishing Noise in Steering Pump
inspect
e Damaged flow control valve
Whining Noise in Steering Pump
Inspect
Q Pump shaft bearing scored
e Scored pressure plates and vanes
STEERING COLUMN DIAGNOSIS
LOCK SYSTEM
Will Not Unlock
Inspect
o Shear flange on sector shaft collapsed
Q Damaged lock bolt
e Damaged lock cylinder
o Damaged housing
e Damaged sector
e Damaged rack
e Damaged park lock cable
Will Not Lock
Inspect
Lock bolt spring broken or worn
Damaged sector
Damaged lock cylinder
Burr on lock bolt
Damaged housing
Improper shift linkage adjustment
Damaged rack
Interference between bowl and rack coupling
Ignition switch stuck
Actuator rod restricted
Sector installed incorrectly
Park lock cable damaged

STEERING. SUSPENSION. TIRES AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS 3-5
High Lock Effort
rn lnspect
e Lock cylinder damaged
e Ignition switch damaged
o Rack preload spring broken or deformed
e Burrs on sector, rack, housing, support or
actuator rod coupling
,
e Bent sector shaft
e Damaged rack
e Extreme misalignment of' housing to cover
e Distorted coupling slot in rack
e Bent actuator rod
e Ignition switch mounting bracket bent
e Actuator rod restricted
e Improper shift linkage adjustment
Will Stick In "Start"
rn lnspect
e Actuator rod deformed
e Check items under "High Lock Effort"
Key Cannot Be Removed in "Off-Lock"
rn lnspect
e Ignition switch is not set correctly
e Damaged lock cylinder
e Linkage mis-adjusted
Lock Cylinder Can Be Removed
Inspect
e Lock cylinder retaining screw missing
High Effort In Lock Cylinder Between "Off" and
"Off-Lock"
lnspect
o Distorted rack
Lock Bolt Hits Shaft Lock In "Off" Position and
"Park"
lnspect
e Ignition switch is not set correctly
COLUMN
Noise In Column
Inspect
e Joints from the column to the steering gear 1
e Column not correctly aligned
e Horn contact ring not lubricated
e Lack of grease on bearings
o Loose sight shields
o Lower or upper steering shaft bearing worn or
broken
e Shaft lock snap ring not seated
o Spherical joint not lubricated
High Steering Shaft Effort
e Column assembly misaligned
e Improperly installed or deformed dust seal
e Damaged upper or lower bearing
e Flash on I.D. of shift tube
e Tight intermediate steering shaft universal joint
High Shift Effort (Automatic with Column Shift)
rn lnspect
e Column not aligned correctly in car
e Wave washer with burrs
e Improperly installed dust seal
o Lack of grease on seal or bearing
e Improper screws used for ignition switch
e Burr on upper or lower end of shift tube
e Lower bowl bearing not assembled correctly
Improper Shifting (Automatic with Column
Shift)
rn lnspect
e Sheared shift tube joint or lower shift lever weld
e Improper or loose linkage adjustment
e 1,oose shift lever
e Improper gate plate
Lash In Steering Column
lnspect
e 1.P.-to-column upper and lower bracket
nlounting bolts loose
e Broken weld nuts on jacket
e I.P. upper bracket capsule sheared
e Loose shoes in housing
e Loose tilt head pivot pins
e Loose shoe lock pin in support
e Loose support screws
e Column upper and lower bracket-to-jacket bolts
loose
e Loose lower bracket-to-adapter and bearing
assembly mounting screws
e Loose 1.P.-to-jacket mounting bolts
Housing Scraping On Bowl
rn Inspect
e Bowl bent or not concentric with hub
e Cover and housing end cap not properly installed

3-6 STEERING, SUSPENSION, TIRES AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS
Steering Wheel Loose
lnspect
Excessive clearance between holes in support or
housing and pivot pin diameters
e Damaged or missing anti-lash spring in spheres
e Upper bearing not seated in housing
e Upper bearing inner race seal missing
e Loose support screws
e Bearing preload spring missing or broken
Steering Wheel Loose (Every Other Tilt Position)
lnspect
e Loose fit between shoe and shoe pivot pin
e Shoe not free in slot
Steering Column Not Locking In Any Tilt
Position
lnspect
e Shoe seized on its pivot pin
e Shoe grooves may have burrs or dirt
e Shoe lock spring weak or broken
Steering Wheel Fails To Return To Top Tilt
Position
Inspect
e Pivot pins are bound up
e Wheel tilt spring is broken or weak
e Turn signal switch wires too tight
Noise When Tilting Column
Inspect
e Upper tilt bumpers worn
e Tilt spring rubbing in housing
TURN SIGNAL SWITCH
This diagnosis covers mechanical problems only
See Section
8A for turn signal switch electrical diagnosis.
Turn Signal Will Not Stay In Turn Position
lnspect
e Foreign material or loose parts impeding
movement of yoke
e Broken or missing detent or cancelling spring
s None of the above, replace switch
Turn Signal Will Not Cancel
lnspect
a Loose switch mounting screws
e Switch or anchor bosses broken
e Broken, missing or out of position detent, return
or cancelling spring
Worn cancelling cam
Turn Signal Difficult To Operate
0 Inspect
e Turn signal switch arm loose
e Yoke broken or distorted, replace switch
e Loose or misplaced springs
e Foreign parts andlor material
o Loose turn signal switch mounting screws
Turn Signal Will Not Indicate Lane Change
a Inspect
e Broken lane change pressure pad or spring
hanger
e Broken, missing or misplaced lane change spring
e Jammed base or wires
Hazard Switch Cannol: Be Turned Off
a Inspect
e Foreign material between hazard support
cancelling leg and yoke
e If no foreign material is found, replace turn signal
switch.
Hazard Switch Will Not Stay On or Difficult To
Turn Off
e Loose turn signal switch
a Interference with other components
e Foreign material interference
e None of the above, replace turn signal switch
No Turn Signal Lights
lnspect
e Electrical failure in chassis harness
e Inoperative turn signal flasher
e Loose chassis-to-column connector. Disconnect
column-to-chassis connector and connect new
turn signal switch to chassis and operate switch
by hand.
A. If car lights now operate normally, turn
signal switch is inoperative.
B. If
car lights do not operate, refer to Section 8A
for electrical diagnosis.
Turn Indicator Lights On, But Not Flashing
a Inspect
e Inoperative turn signal flasher
Loose chassis-to-column connection
Inoperative turn signal switch

STEERING, SUSPENSION, TIRES AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS 3-7
e To determine if turn signal switch is inoperative,
substitute new turn signal switch into circuit and
operate switch by hand.
If the car's lights operate
normally, turn signal switch is inoperative.
Front Or Rear Turn Signal Lights Not Flashing
Inspect
s Burned-out or damaged turn signal bulb
e High resistance conection to ground at bulb
socket
s Loose chassis-to-column connector. Disconnect
column-to-chassis connector and connect new
turn signal switch into system and operate switch
by hand.
A. If turn signal lights are now on and flashing,
turn signal switch is inoperative.
B. If car lights do not operate, refer to Section
8A
for electrical diagnosis.
Turn Indicator Panel Lights
Inspect
Burned out bulbs or opens, grounds in the wiring
harness from the front turn signal bulb socket to the
indicator lights. Refer to Section
8A for electrical
diagnosis.
Stop Light Mot On When Turn Indicated
Inspect
s Loose column-to-chassis connection
e Disconnect the column-to-chassis connector and
connect the new turn signal switch into the
system and operate the switch by hand.
A. If the brake lights work when the switch is
in the turn position, the turn signal switch
is inoperative.
B. If the brake lights do not work, refer to Section
8A for electrical diagnosis.
Turn Signal Lights Flash Very Slowly
e Loose chassis-to-column connection
a Disconnect the column-to-chassis connector and
connect a new turn signal switch into the system
and operate the switch by hand.
A. If the lights flash at a normal rate, the turn
signal switch is inoperative.
B. If the Lights still flash very slowly, refer to
Section
8A for electrical diagnosis.
Hazard Signal Lights Will Not Flash - Turn
Signal Functions Normally
~"SPBC~
a Blown fuse
Inoperative hazard warning flasher
e Loose chassis-to-column connection
s Disconnect the column-to-chassis connector and
connect a new turn signal switch into the system,
then press in the hazard warning button and
watch the hazard warning lights.
A. If the lights now work normally, the turn
signal switch is inoperative.
B. If the lights do not flash, check the wiring
harness. Refer to Section
8A for electrical
diagnosis.
IGNITION SWITCH
Electrical System Will Not Function
Damaged ign~rion switch
e Ignition switch not adjusted properly
e Loose connector at the ignition switch
Switch Will Not Turn
Inspect
Damaged ignition switch
Switch Cannot Be Set Correctly
Inspect
Switch actuator rod deformed
e Sector to rack engaged in wrong tooth
KEY REMINDER
Figs. 1 through 11 ,
Weminder Continues To Operate With Key Out,
But Stops When Driver's Door Is Closed
e Chips, foreign material in lock cylinder bore
Sticky lock cylinder actuator tip
Damaged or broken reminder switch
Reminder Does Not Sound With Key Fully
Inserted In Lock Cylinder And The Driver's Door
Open
Inspect
1. Power not available to reminder. Refer to Sec-
tion
8A for electrical diagnosis.
2. Open in chassis wiring. Check by separating
chassis-to-column connector. Connect terminals
"E" and "F" female contacts on the chassis
connector (a bent paper clip will work). If the
reminder sounds, repair chassis wiring. If the
reminder does not sound, go to Step
A.
A. Connect a continuity meter (light) to the
male
"E" and "F" column connector
contacts. Push the key all the way into the
lock cylinder. If the light is on when the key

3-8 STEERING. SUSPENSION. TIRES AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS
is in, and off when the key is out, the
function is normal. If the light is not on, the
fault is in the column. Go to Step B.
Fig. 1 Checking Reminder at Chassis Connector
Fig.
2 Checking Reminder at Column Connector
B. Disassemble the upper end of the column
until the turn
signal switch mounting
screws have been
removed. Lift the turn
signal switch and check the probes of the
reminder switch to ensure good contact
with the pads on the signal switch. Bend the
probes, if needed, then replace the turn
signal switch and tighten the three screws.
Check the function as in Step
A.
3. Short or fault in the turn signal switch wiring.
Connect male
"E" and "F" contacts of column
connector with jumper. Check key reminder
switch pads on turn signal switch with continuity
meter. If there is continuity, the function is
normal. If not, replace the turn signal switch. the
key is in the lock cylinder, and off when the
key is out, the function is normal. Retrace the
diagnostic steps starting at Step
A. If the light is
not on, the fault is in the lock cylinder or
reminder switch.
Chips, burrs, or foreign material in the lock
cylinder preventing actuator tip function.
Remove chips, burrs, etc. Reassemble and
recheck (Step 4). The key must be removed, or
the cylinder must be in the "Run" position,
before the lock cylinder can be removed.
Fig. 3 Checking Reminder Switch Pads
6. Damaged lock cylinder. With the lock cylinder
removed, push the key all the way in, then
remove it. The lock cylinder actuator tip should
extend and retract smoothly. Total extension of
tip should be
1.27 mm (.05OU). If not, replace the
lock cylinder. Remove and clean as required.
Reassemble
and recheck per Step 4.
Fig. 4 Checking Reminder Switch
4.. If the problem has not been found, connect a 7. switch appears good but will not operate, continuity meter (light) to the reminder switch
Connect continuity meter leads to the reminder
probes on the switch. Fully insert and remove the
switch probes on the switch. Press on the actuator
key from the lock cylinder. If the light is on when

Fig. 5 Lock Cylinder Actuator - Key Removed
Fig.
6 Lock Cylinder Actuator - Key in Place
pad until the switch points contact. If contact is
not made, replace reminder switch.
I
ACTLATOR PAD
Fig. 7 Checking Key Reminder Switch Continuity
8.
Check the switch contact gap by pressing a 0.8
mm
(.03OU) wire-type plug gage with a flat piece
of stock onto the actuator pad. If contact is not
made, decrease the switch contact gap until
positive contact is made. Use a continuity meter
(light).
9. With positive contact at 0.8 mm (.03OU), use a 0.6
mm
(.025") plug gap wire beneath the flat stock.
No contact should occur.
If contact is made,
increase the switch contact gap. When the switch
will make contact with the 0.8 mm
(.030M) wire
but not with the 0.6 mm
(.025") wire, the switch
is set properly.
CONTINUITY
METERLEADS
Fig. 8 Checking Contact Gap
Fig.
9 Decreasing Switch Contact Gap
Fig.
10 Checking Contact Gap
OPENING GAP
Fig. 11 Increasing Switch Contact Gap

3-10 STEERING, SUSPENSION, TIRES AND WHEELS DIAGNOSIS
Reminder Keeps Operating With Key In Lock
Cylinder, Driver's Door Open Or Closed; Ceases
When Key Is Removed
Inspect
s Door jamb switch on driver's side misadjusted or
inoperative.
e Wire from signal switch to door jamb switch
shorted.
A. This condition indicates the lock cylinder or
the reminder switch is at fault. To verify,
check for continuity at the
"E" and "F"
male column connector contacts, with the
key removed from the lock cylinder. If
continuity exists, the fault is in the column.
B. Insert the key into the lock, then turn the
lock toward the "Start" position. If the
reminder stops when the key is in the
"Run" position or when it is turned past
"Run" toward "Start," the problem is a
sticky lock cylinder actuator.
COLUMN-MOUNTED DIMMER SWITCH
No "Low" or "High" Beam
Inspect
e Loose connector at dimmer switch
e Improper adjustment
e Internally damaged or worn switch. Check the
continuity on the switch at the It. green and at the
tan switch terminals by pushing in the plunger all
the way.
A click should be heard. If there is no
continuity, replace the dimmer switch. If there is
continuity, refer
to'section 8A for electricaldiag-
nosis.
PIVOT AND SWITCH ASSEMBLY
Switch Inoperative: No "Low," "High" and/or
"Wash"
e Loose body-to-switch connector
a Broken or damaged switch
Internally damaged or worn switch. Connect a
new switch without removing the old one. If the
system functions, replace the switch. If the
system doesn't function, refer to Section
8A for
electrical diagnosis.
STEERING GEAR AND PUMP LEAKS
General Procedure
Inspect
s Overfilled reservoir
s Fluid aeration and overflow
e , Hose connections
Verify exact point of leakage Example:
Torsion bar, stub shaft and
adjuster seals are close together; the exact
spot where the system is leaking may not be
clear.
Example: The point from which the fluid is
dripping is not necessarily the point where
the system is leaking; fluid overflowing from
the reservoir, for instance.
e When service is required:
A. Clean leakage area upon disassembly.
B. Replace leaking seal.
C. Check component sealing surfaces for
damage.
D. Reset bolt torque to specifications, where
required.
Some complaints about the power steering system
may be reported as:
A. Fluid leakage on garage floor
B. Fluid leaks visible on steering gear or pump
C. Growling noise, especially when parking or
when engine is cold
D. Loss of power steering when parking
E. Heavy steering effort
When troubleshooting these kinds of complaints,
check for an external leak in the power steering system.
For further diagnosis of leaks, refer to External
Leakage Check in this section.
External Leakage Check
Fig. 12
The purpose of this procedure is to pinpoint the
location of the leak.
In some cases, the leak can easily be located. But,
seepage-type leaks may be more difficult to isolate. To
locate seepage leaks, use the following method.
1. With the engine off, wipe dry the complete power
steering system.
2. Check the fluid level in the pump's reservoir. Add
fluid if necessary.
3. Start the engine, then turn the steering wheel
from stop to stop several times. Do not hold it at
a stop for any length of time, as this can damage
the power steering pump. It is easier if someone
else operates the steering wheel while you search
for the seepage.
4. Find the exact area of the leak and repair leak.
SEAL REPLACEMENT
RECOMMENDATIONS
Lip seals, which seal rotating shafts, require
special treatment. This type of seal is used on the
steering gear and on the drive shaft of the pump. When
there is a leak in one of these areas, always replace the
seal(s), after inspecting and thoroughly cleaning the
sealing surfaces. Replace the shaft only if very severe
pitting is found. If the corrosion in the lip seal contact
zone is slight, clean the surface of the shaft with crocus
cloth. Replace the shaft only if the leakage cannot be
stopped by first smoothing with crocus cloth.

1. REPLACE DRIVE SHAFT SEAL MAKE CERTAIN THAT
DRIVE SHAFT IS CLEAN AND FREE OF PITTING IN
SEAL AREA
2 REPLACE RESERVOIR
0 RING SEAL 3 TORQUE HOSE FITTING NUT TO 35 N rn 125 FT LBS ) IF LEAKAGE PERSISTS, REPLACE O.RING SEAL 4 TORQUE FITTING TO 75 N rn 155 FT LBS 1 IF LEAKAGE
PERSISTS. REPLACE 0 RING SEAL 5 REPLACE O-RING SEAL 6 IF LEAKAGE IS OBSERVED AT (A). FOLLOWING
MANUFACTURER S DIRECTIONS. APPLY LOCTITE 75559
SOLVENT AND LOCTITE 290 ADHESIVE, OR
EQUIVALENT. TO TUBE HOUSING CONNECTION IF
LEAKAGE IS COMING FROM
101, REPLACE RETURN
TUBE IF COMING FROM IC), REPLACE HOSE OR CLAMP 7 CHECK OIL LEVEL, IF LEAKAGE PERSISTS i' ''4 THF
LEVEL CORRECT AND CAP TIGHT. REPLACE I nt CAP B IF A CRACKED OR BENT RESERVOIR IS DETECTED
REPLACE RESERVOIR
9 TORQUE NUT TO 48 N rn 135 FT LBS 1 REPLACE NUT IF
LEAKAGE PERSISTS
10 TORQUE SlDE COVER BOLTS TO 60 N m 145 FT LBS
REPLACE SlDE COVER SEAL IF LEAKAGE PERSISTS
11 REPLACE SlDE COVER O.RING SEAL
12 TORQUE HOSE FITTING NUT TO 27 N rn 120 FT LBS ) IF
LEAKAGE PERSISTS, REPLACE O.RING SEAL
13 REPLACE ROTARY VALVE ASSEMBLY
14 SEAT BALL FLUSH WITH PUNCH AND RESTAKE IF
SEEPAGE PERSISTS. REPLACE HOUSING
15 REPLACE ADJUSTER PLUG SEALS 16 REPLACE BOTH PITMAN SHAFT SEALS
17 REPLACE END PLUG O.RING SEAL