2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 transmission oil

29. Install the a/c condenser (1).
30. Connect the a/c refrigerant lines to the a/c con-
denser.
31. Install the radiator upper support panel.
32. Install radiator.
33. Connect the transmission quick-connect oil cooler
lines.
34. Raise vehicle.
35. Connect a/c compressor suction/discharge hose
(if equipped).
36. Install the radiator lower hose and clamps.
37. Install the battery negative cables to the engine
block on the driver and passenger side.
38. Install the transmission adapter with a new cam-
shaft rectangular ring seal. Torque to 77 Nꞏm (57
ft. lb).
39. Install the flywheel and adapter or flexplate.
Torque to 137 Nꞏm (101 ft. lb).
NOTE: If the engine is equipped with a flexplate or
crankshaft adapter, a new clamp ring must be
used. If the engine has a flywheel with washers,
the washers can be reused.
40. Install the starter motor (2). Torque to 43 Nꞏm (32
ft. lb). (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
41. Connect engine to vehicle harness connectors.
42. Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
43. Connect the exhaust pipe to the turbocharger
elbow.
44. Connect the transmission auxiliary oil cooler lines
(if equipped).
45. Lower the vehicle.
46. Connect the heater core supply and return hoses.

CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK)
REMOVAL
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
NOTE: Measure the diameter of each bore. If the camshaft bore for the cam bushing is worn beyond the
limit, install a new service bushing. Inspect the rest of the camshaft bores for damage or excessive wear.If
the bores without a bushing are worn beyond the limit, the engine must be removed for machining and
installation of service bushings. If badly worn, replace the cylinder block.
1. Remove the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK) -
REMOVAL).
2. Remove the bushing from the No.1 bore.
3. Mark the cylinder block so you can align the oil hole in the cylinder blockwith the oil hole in the bushing.
CAMSHAFT
1. Disconnect both battery negative cables.
2. Recover A/C refrigerant (if A/C equipped) (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
3. Raise vehicle on hoist.
4. Drain engine coolant into container suitable for re-use (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. Lower vehicle.
6. Remove radiator upper hose.
7. Remove viscous fan/drive/shroud assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
8. Disconnect the coolant recovery bottle hose from the radiator filler neck.
9. Disconnect lower radiator hose from radiator outlet.
10.Automatic Transmission models:Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines from front of radiator using Special
Tool 6931 (unless equipped with finger-release disconnect).
11. Remove radiator mounting screws and lift radiator out of engine compartment.
12. Remove upper radiator support panel.
13. If A/C equipped, disconnect A/C condenser refrigerant lines.
14. Disconnect charge air cooler piping from the cooler inlet and outlet.
15. Remove the two charge air cooler mounting bolts.
16. Remove charge air cooler (and A/C condenser if equipped) from vehicle.
17. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
18. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
19. Remove the fan support/hub assembly.
20. Remove crankshaft damper and speed indicator ring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL).
21. Remove the gear cover-to-housing bolts and gently pry the cover away from the housing, taking care not to mar
the sealing surfaces. Remove dust seal with cover.
22. Using Special Tool 7471–B Crankshaft Barring Tool, rotate the crankshaft to align the timing marks on the
crankshaft and the camshaft gears.
23. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -
REMOVAL).

12. Install gear housing cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/GEAR HOUSING COVER - INSTALLATION).
Install front crankshaft dust seal.
13. Install the crankshaft damper with the speed indicator ring (Refer to 9- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - INSTALLATION).
14. Install the fan support/hub assembly Refer to (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
15. Install the power steering pump.
16. Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque bolt to 43 Nꞏm (32 ft. lbs.).
17. Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
18. Install the charge air cooler (with a/c condenser and auxiliary transmission oil cooler, if equipped) and tighten
the mounting bolts to 2 Nꞏm (17 in. lbs.) torque.
19. Connect charge air cooler inlet and outlet pipes. Tighten clamps to 11 Nꞏm (95 in. lbs.) torque.
20. Install the radiator upper support panel.
21. Close radiator petcock and lower the radiator into the engine compartment. Tighten the mounting bolts to 11
Nꞏm (95 in. lbs.) torque.
22. Raise vehicle on hoist.
23. Connect radiator lower hose and install clamp.
24. Connect transmission auxiliary oil cooler lines (if equipped).
25. Lower vehicle.
26. Install the fandrive/shroud assembly. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION)
27. Install the coolant recovery and windshield washer fluid reservoirs to the fan shroud.
28. Connect the coolant recovery hose to the radiator filler neck.
29. Add engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
30. Charge A/C system with refrigerant (if A/C equipped) (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMB-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
31. Connect the battery negative cables.
32. Start engine and check for engine oil and coolant leaks.

SEAL - CRANKSHAFT OIL - REAR
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Remove the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
3. Remove the clutch cover and disc (if manual trans-
mission equipped) (Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH
DISC - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
5. Remove the flywheel adapter plate.
6. Drill holes 180° apart into the seal. Be careful not
to contact the drill against the crankshaft.
7. Install # 10 sheet metalscrews (1) in the drilled
holes and remove the rear seal with a slide ham-
mer (4).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on the crankshaft must be freefrom all oil residue to prevent
seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal surfaces must be completely dry when the seal is installed. Use a soap
and water solution on outside diameter of seal to ease assembly.
1. Clean the crankshaft journal with a suitable solvent and dry with a cleanshop towel or compressed air. Wipe the
inside bore of the crankshaft seal retainer with a clean shop towel.
2. Inspect the crankshaft journal forgouges, nicks, or other imperfections. If the seal groove in the crankshaft is
excessively deep, install the new seal 1/8” deeper into the retainer bore,or obtain a crankshaft wear sleeve that
is available in the aftermarket.
3. Install the seal pilot and new seal, provided in the replacement kit, onto the crankshaft.
4. Remove the seal pilot.
5. Install the installation tool over crankshaft.
6. Using a ball peen hammer, strike the tool (2) at the
12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions until the alignment
tool bottoms out on the retainer.
NOTE: Always install a new clamping ring, never
reuse the old clamping ring.
7. Install the flywheel or converter drive plate, and
clamping ring. Tighten the bolts to 137 Nꞏm (101 ft.
lbs.) torque.
8. Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
9. Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Connect battery negative cables.
12. Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
13. Start engine and check for oil leaks.

RETAINER - CRANK REAR OIL SEAL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the engine
oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 Nꞏm (44 ft. lbs.)
torque.
4. Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
5. Remove flywheel or torque converter drive plate.
6. Remove flywheel adapter plate.
7. Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
8. Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL) and
transmission adapter plate assembly.
9. Remove four 4 oil pan rear bolts. Slide a feeler
gauge between the seal retainer and oil pan gasket
to break the seal.
10. Remove the six 6 retainer-to-block bolts (3).
11. Remove the rear seal retainer, and gasket (2).
12. Support the seal retainer and drive out the crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
1. If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft seal
must be replaced.
2. Inspect oil pan gasket for nicks or cuts. If gasket is
damaged, the oil pan must be removed and gasket
must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and
apply light coating of RTV.
3. Using the retainer alignment/seal installation tool
provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block, using a new gasket. Tighten the six (6)
mounting bolts by hand.
4. The seal alignment tool is used to align rear cover
properly. Starting with the center two bolts, tighten
the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 Nꞏm (89 in.
lbs.). Remove the alignment tool.

CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on out-
side diameter of seal to ease assembly.
5. Make sure the provided seal pilot (1) is installed
into the new crankshaft seal (3). Use the align-
ment/installation tool and press the seal onto the
crankshaft. Alternately drive the seal at the 12, 3, 6
and 9 o’clock positions.
6. Remove the alignment tool and trim the retainer
gasket (1) even with the oil pan mounting surface.
7. Remove the seal pilot.
8. Apply a small amount of Mopar
Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant to the oil pan rail T-joints.
9. Install the four (4) oil pan rear mounting bolts and
torque to 28 Nꞏm (21 ft. lbs.).
10. Install new rectangular ring seal for cam bore.
11. Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
boltsto77Nꞏm(57ft.lbs.).
12. Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
boltsto77Nꞏm(57ft.lbs.).
NOTE: A new clamping ring must be used on early
or late builds, automatic or manual. Do not reuse
clamping ring.
13. Install the dual mass flywheel with crankshaft adapter. Tighten boltsto 137 Nꞏm (101 ft. lbs.).
14. Install the starter motor Refer to (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STA R T E R M O TO R - I N S TA L L AT I O N ) .
15. Install the transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
16. Lower vehicle.
17. Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
18. Connect the battery negative cables.
19. Start engine and check for oil leaks.

PA N - E N G I N E O I L
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Install engine support fixture # 8534.
3. Raise vehicle on hoist.
4. Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
5. Remove transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
6. Remove flywheel or flexplate.
7. Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -REMOVAL) and transmission
adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY.
8. Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
9. Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface is not damaged and tighten to 50 Nꞏm (37 ft. lbs.) torque.
10. Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block seal, and lower pan slightlyandremoveoilsuctiontubefasteners.
11. Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be required
around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces for cracks and damage. Replace any defective component.
Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for straightness. Repair any
minor imperfections with a ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
1. Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear housing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use MoparSilicone
Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent.
2. Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them into place. Slide oil pan gasket into postion.Using a new tube to
block gasket, install and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Startingwith the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the
bolts to 24 Nꞏm (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube brace boltsto 43 Nꞏm (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Starting in the center and working outward, tighten the oil pan bolts to 28Nꞏm(21ft.lbs.)torque.
4. Install the flywheel housing assembly with the starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 Nꞏm (57 ft. lbs.)
torque.
5. Connect starter motor cables.
NOTE: A new clamping ring must be used on early or late builds, automatic or manual. Do not reuse clamp-
ing ring.
6. Install the flywheel to crankshaft adapter. Torque to 137 Nꞏm (101 ft. lbs.).
7. Install transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
10. Install battery negative cables.
11. Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
12. Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine, check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.

3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair as necessary.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.
5.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method
as follows:
1. Disconnect the PCV hoses at the cylinder head covers and plug or cap the outlet on the covers.
2. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
3. Gradually apply air pressure from 6.89 kPa (1 psi) to 17.23 kPa (2.5 psi) maximum while applying soapy water
at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
4. If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply. Remove the air hose, allplugs, and caps. Connect the PCV
hoses. Proceed to next step.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube to oil pan location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using Mopar
Stud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube applications only), and for O-ring style tubes, remove
tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove clutch housing inspection cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check
for the oil leak. If a leak is present in this area, remove transmission for further inspection.
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup plug or rear
crankshaft seal retainer gasket leak. See proper repair procedures for these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, replace component(s) as
necessary.