2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 Crankshaft

BLOCK-ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of a sand-cast aluminum alloy. The cylinder block has interference-fit cast iron cylinder
liners. The cylinder liners are thermally installed during block manufacturing; they are not serviceable items.
Six iron main bearing caps use four bolts per cap; two vertical and two horizontal. A crankshaft oil scraper is
attached to the main bearing caps via extended main bearing cap bolts and nuts.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern. The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings.
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
CAUTION: Remove all gasket material from cylinder block using a plastic gasket scraper and MoparBrake
Parts Cleaner or the equivalent, this will prevent damage to the cylinder block.
1. When cleaning the cylinder block, remove the oil gallery plugs at the front and rear of the block.
2. Spray compressed air into all oil gallery passages to ensure they are clear of blockage.
3. Use a wooden or plastic scraper and MOPAR
Brake Parts Cleaner or the equivalent to remove the old gasket.
4. Clean the oil passages in the crankshaft with a brush.

ROD-PISTON & CONNECTING
DESCRIPTION
The pistons are made of cast aluminum with an added anodized coating on bothsides of the skirt and the top
piston ring groove for reduced wear and it’s low friction properties. Three piston rings are used; two compression
and one three-piece oil control ring. The piston pin (press-fit into the rods) joins the piston to a forged steel, frac-
tured cap, designed connecting rod, with a custom twelve point nine millimeter threaded bolt. The piston and con-
necting rod is serviced as an assembly and is not interchangeable with previous model years.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
PISTON FITTING
All pistons are machined to the same weight in grams,
to maintain piston balance.
Piston and cylinder wall must be clean and dry. Piston
diameter should be measured 90 degrees to piston
pin axis at size location shown in. Cylinder bores
should be measured halfway down the cylinder bore
and transverse to the engine crankshaft center line
shown in. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS)
for cylinder bore and piston specifications.
NOTE: Pistons and cylinder bores should be mea-
sured at normal room temperature, 70°F (21°C).

5. Remove the crankshaft oil scraper nuts (1) and oil
scraper (2).
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a
punch to mark connecting rods. Damage to con-
necting rod could occur.
6. Inspect connecting rods and connecting rod caps
for cylinder identification (1). Identify them if neces-
sary using a permanent ink or paint marker.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the
fractured rod and cap joint surfaces, as engine
damage may occur.
NOTE: Do not reuse connecting rod bolts.
7. Remove connecting rod bolts and cap. Push each
piston and rod assembly out the block.
NOTE: Be careful not to nick crankshaft journals.
8. After removal, install bearing cap on the mating
rod.
INSPECTION
CONNECTING ROD
1. Check the connecting rods for twist or bend.
2. Check the condition of the large end. Use an oil stone to remove any nicks and burrs.
3. Check the condition of the pin bore in the small end of the connecting rod.Useanoilstonetoremoveallnicks
and burrs.
PISTON PIN
1. Inspect for free rotation of the piston pin in the piston.

PISTON
1. Inspect all piston surfaces for nicks and scuffs.
2. Inspect piston and ring grooves for wear.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Pistons and connecting rods are serviced
as an assembly. Left bank pistons are labeled
“ODD”. Right bank pistons are labeled “EVEN”.
1. Install piston rings (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/PISTON RINGS - INSTALLATION).
NOTE: Before installing pistons, and connecting
rod assemblies into the bore, be sure that com-
pression ring gaps are staggered so that neither is
in line with oil ring rail gap. Before installing the
ring compressor, make sure the oil ring expander
ends are butted and the rail gaps located as
shown in.
2. Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil, slide the ring compressor, over the piston.Be sure posi-
tion of rings does not change during this operation.
3. Rotate crankshaft so that the connecting rod journal is at the bottom of it’s stroke and in the center of the cyl-
inder bore.
4. The arrow on top of piston (1) must be pointing toward front of engine.
5. Install new connecting rod bearing in connecting rod and rod cap.
6. Install piston assembly from the top of the block.
Tap the piston down in cylinder bore, using a ham-
mer handle. Guide the rod over the crankshaft jour-
nal.
7. Install rod cap. InstallNEWconnecting rod bolts.
Bolt threads should be oiled with engine oil. Torque
connecting rod bolts to 68 Nꞏm (50 ft. lbs.).

8. Install the crankshaft oil scraper (2) and nuts (1).
Torque nuts (1) to 23 Nꞏm (200 in. lbs.).
9. Install oil pump pick up tube (2) using anewo-ring
(4). Torque 1/4-20 bolt to 11 Nꞏm (95 in. lbs.).
Torque 5/16-18 nuts to 23 Nꞏm (200 in. lbs.).
10. Install oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
11. Install cylinder heads (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYL-
INDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
12. Install engine, (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
INSTALLATION).

BEARINGS-CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
The bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be paint marked or scribed at removal to insure correct
assembly.
The bearing shells must be installed so that the tangs are in the machined grooves in the rods and caps.
Limits of taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft journals should be held to 0.013 mm (0.0005 in.). Bearings are
available in 0.025 mm (0.001 in.), 0.051 mm (0.002 in.), 0.076 mm (0.003 in.), 0.254 mm (0.010 in.) and 0.305 mm
(0.012 in.) undersize.Install the bearings in pairs. Do not use a new bearing half with an old bearing half. Do
not file the rods or bearing caps.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CONNECTING ROD BEARING - FITTING
Fit all rods on one bank until complete. Do not alternate from one bank to another, because when the rods are
assembled to pistons correctly, they are not interchangeable from one bank to another.
The bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be marked at removal toinsure correct assembly.
The bearing shells must be installed so that the tangs are in the machined grooves in the rods and caps.
Limits of taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft journals should be held to 0.013 mm (0.0005 in.). Bearings are
available in 0.025 mm (0.001 in.), 0.051 mm (0.002 in.), 0.076 mm (0.003 in.), 0.254 mm (0.010 in.) and 0.305 mm
(0.012 in.) undersize.Install the bearings in pairs. Do not use a new bearing half with an old bearing half. Do
not file the rods or bearing caps.
1. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) - Mea-
suring Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance to determine bearing clearance.
2. Before installing the connecting rod cap bolts, the bolt threads shouldbe oiled with engine oil.
3. Install bolts finger tight, then alternately torque each bolt to assemble the cap properly.
4. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 68 Nꞏm (50 ft. lbs.).
MEASURING CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE
Engine crankshaft bearing clearances can be deter-
mined by use of Plastigage (1) or equivalent. The fol-
lowing is the recommended procedure for the use of
Plastigage:
1. Rotate the crankshaft until the connecting rod to be
checked is at the bottom of its stroke.
2. Remove oil film from surface to be checked. Plas-
tigage is soluble in oil.
3. Place a piece of Plastigage (1) across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the bearing cap
approximately 6.35 mm (1/4 inch.) off center and
away from the oil hole. In addition, suspect areas
can be checked by placing plastigage in the suspect area.
4. Before assembling the rod cap with Plastigage in place, the crankshaft must be rotated until the connecting rod
being checked starts moving toward the top of the engine. Only then should the cap be assembled and torqued
to specifications.Do not rotate the crankshaft while assembling the cap or the Plastigage maybe
smeared, giving inaccurate results.

DAMPER-CRANKSHAFT
REMOVAL
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the engine front shield.
3. Disconnect the radiator fan hydraulic lines (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
REMOVAL).
4. Lower vehicle.
5. Disconnect the air inlet duct, IAT sensor, CCV hose
at the throttle body, and remove the air cleaner
housing cover.
6. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
7. Remove the radiator fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
8. Raise and support the vehicle.
9. Remove crankshaft pulley.
10. Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
11. Install crankshaft insert, Special Tool 8194 (1).
Lubricate the end of Special Tool 8194 (1) with
wheel bearing grease or equivalent.
NOTE: Lubricate the threads of the puller using
Mopar
Nickel Anti-seize Compound or equivalent,
before beginning crankshaft damper removal.
12. Using a bolt-grip type universal puller (1), remove
the crankshaft damper.

INSTALLATION
NOTE: Lubricate the threads of Special Tool 9055
(1) using Mopar
Nickel Anti-seize Compound or
equivalent, before beginning crankshaft damper
installation.
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Install crankshaft damper using Special Tool 9055
(1).
3. Install and tighten damper bolt to 176 Nꞏm (130 ft.
lbs.).
4. Install the crankshaft pulley. Tighten crankshaft pul-
ley bolts to 23 Nꞏm (200 in. lbs.).
5. Install the front engine shield.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
8. Install the radiator fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
9. Install air cleaner cover connecting the CVV hose,
IAT, and air duct to the throttle body housing.
10. Lower vehicle.