1988 FIAT TEMPRA Service And Repair Manual

• Step 14B: INJECTION ENGINES. Disconnect the
butterfly valve opening sensor connection (see illustration Job

2-13B,
part b) and the earth cable (Job
2-13B,
part c).
Q Step 15: Remove the
timing belt. See Job 1.
• Step 16: Unbolt and
remove the camshaft sprocket.
If necessary, use a screwdriver

held
through the sprocket
against a mounting bolt behind

it,
to stop it from turning.
• Step 17:
Remove the timing

belt
tensioner but

note
that it is in
three parts.
• Step 18: Unbolt and

remove
the timing belt
backplate. You could leave the
bottom half in place, if you are
going no further than removing

the
cylinder head.
• Step 19: Take
off
the six
nuts and

washers
holding the

cam
cover in place

and
remove it.
• Step 20: The
camshaft housing

can
now be
removed in order to

access
the cylinder

head
bolts. Slacken
the
12
housing

bolts
progressively,

so that
no strain is

put on
the housing

through
the valve
springs.
Job
2-20
|
• Step 21: The
camshaft housing
can now be lifted
away. Note the
gasket positioning
and fit a new one
on reassembly.
• Step 22:
H INSIDE
INFORMATION: If
the cam followers
are loose, you
may wish to
remove them now
so that they don't
fall out and lose
their position.
Keep them in the
correct order so that
they can go back
where they came from
on reassembly. D
• Step 23: Start
removing the cylinder
head by removing the 4
or 5 small cylinder head
bolts (according to
model)...
^Hob^l]
• Step 24:
...numbered
1
to
4 or 5, slackening
them in the order
shown.
• Step 25:
Now slacken the
remaining 10
bolts half a turn
at a time, in the
order shown'in
Step 24, until all
are loose, and
then remove
them with their
washers.
ft ft ft ft tt
Job 2-24

• Step 26:
Check that
nothing remains
attached to, or
obstructs the
cylinder head and
lift it clear of the
block. If stuck, it
is permissible to
tap the head
lightly with a soft mallet to free it. Never use a wedge
between the joint faces and remember that the head will not
slide off as it is located on dowels.
Job 3. Petrol engine.
Cylinder head and camshaft
housing - refitting.
• Carburettor cleaner
-
or
the purpose-made Loctite
'Chisel' aerosol spray,
available from your FIAT dealer, will help to remove
pieces of
stuck-on
gasket.
o
(
V.
o
o
o
o o o
o o e
• • • • •
0 0 O 0 o
Job
3-4

grease, place it on the block with (on FIAT gaskets) this
copper-ringed hole above the correct water passage. The
gasket only fits correctly one way round.
• Step 3:
Lower the
cylinder head into
position and
locate it on the
two dowels (see
illustration Job
3-2, arrowed).
Refer to the illustration to Job
2-1
in connection with the
work described here.
• Step 4: The
10 main cylinder
head securing
bolts and washers
can now be
screwed in by
hand. Don't fit
the smaller ones
(arrowed) yet.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: FIAT recommend that you
should not re-use cylinder head bolts which have been
refitted more than three times before. Fit new ones if in
doubt, so that you can ensure reliability. B
• Step 1: Lubricate the cylinder head bolts and washers
and leave them to drain for AT LEAST 20 minutes before
fitting them.
• Step 5B:
Tighten the head
down to the first
torque setting,
following the
correct tightening
order.
Q Step 27: Remove the old gasket.
IMPORTANT NOTES: • Here, we show how to refit the
head and camshaft housing, separated. The head
complete with housing cannot be torqued down
correctly without the use of FIAT's special, cranked
spanner for use on the semi-hidden head bolts.
• The valve clearances will have to be re-set. See Job 7.
Clean the block and cylinder head mating surfaces with a
straight edge, taking particular care with the light alloy head.
Any gouging of the metal could prove very expensive to have
put right!
Make sure that all the holes and coolant passages are clear of
any foreign matter, particularly the cylinder head bolt holes
which must be clear right down to the bottom.
• Step 5C: In
the same order,
tighten the bolts
to their second
torque setting.
• Step 2: With
the block face
perfectly clean,
remove the
cylinder head
gasket from its
wrapping and,
keeping it away
from oil or
Tighten by another (second) 90 degrees, bolt-by-bolt, again in
the correct order.
• Step 5D:
Tighten each bolt,
once again in the
correct order, by
a further 90
degrees. You
could use an
angle gauge
(available from
auto-accessory
stores) in order to
be precise.
Q Step 5A: Tighten the 10 larger bolts in their correct
sequence as shown in illustration Job
3-4.
All of the settings
are shown in
Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures.

G Step 6: Fit the four or five smaller bolts, according to
model (see illustration Job
3-4,
arrowed) close to the spark
plug holes, and tighten to their specified torque. See Chapter

3, Facts
and Figures.
G Step 7: All items previously removed in Job 2 can now be
fitted in reverse order. When connecting the exhaust always

use a
new flange gasket.
G Step 8: Ensure that all connections are sound and secure.
G Step 9: All items previously removed in Job 2 can now be
fitted in reverse order. Refer to Job
1
when fitting the timing

belt.
When connecting the exhaust always use a new flange
gasket.
G Step 10: Ensure that all connections are sound and
secure.
G Step 11: Top up the cooling system with the correct

50/50
solution of FL 'Tutela' anti-freeze solution. Check the

oil
level.
• Step 5: Clean and check all components for wear and
signs of 'scuffing'.
B INSIDE INFORMATION! If the camshaft is changed, the
followers should be changed as well. If the bores in the
housing have 'picked up', these cannot be machined and
the housing should be replaced together with new cam
followers. B
• Step 6: Refit the camshaft to the cam housing and insert
the cam followers and shims in their correct bores, using
grease to keep them in place. For adjustment of valve clear-
ances see Job 7.
2 ZeASt, s * when re'inserti"9the
nfW^c/ !X J?^ camshaft, it can be difficult
to get the camshaft fully in
to its end seal. DON'T try hammering it in
-
all you'll
do is damage the seal. Lubricate the seal with fresh
engine oil, insert the camshaft until it is aligned with
and just touching the seal. Push the camshaft with a
twisting motion until it eases its way into the seal.
Job 4. Petrol engine.
Cylinder head - dismantling and
overhauling.
G Step 3: Remove the

cam
followers and shims

from
the housing,
keeping them in the
correct order for refitting

in the
same positions.
Refer to the illustration Job
2-1
for the components covered

in this
Job.
G Step 1: Remove the camshaft housing from the cylinder
head. See Job 2.
G Step 2: Remove the
camshaft housing end

plate
(or the distributor
mounted in the same

place on
certain models).
G Step 4: Slide the
camshaft out, taking
care not to damage the
camshaft bearings with

the cam
lobes.
• Step 7: Use a suitable valve spring compressor to
compress each spring in turn to allow the removal of the split
collets from the valve stems. Inexpensive valve spring
compressors are readily available from auto, accessory stores.
Take care not to lose the collets when releasing the spring
compressor.
Q Step 9: The valve spring caps, springs and spring seats
can all be lifted clear and the valves withdrawn from their
guides.
• Step 8:
These are the
items to be
removed once
the valve is
withdrawn.
1 - flat washer 2 - lower cap 3 - inner spring
4 - outer spring 5 - upper cap 6 - collets Job 4-8

&CASU / # Q StGP 101 The ValV6S i* (/ should slide freely out of
their guides. Any resistance
may be caused by a build up of carbon, or a slight burr
on the stem where the collets engage. This can usually
be removed by careful use of fine wet-or-dry paper,
allowing you to
withdraw the valves
without scoring their
guides. Keep the valves
in their correct order by
wrapping a numbered
piece of masking tape
around each stem.
• Step 12: Clean the
carbon from the valves with
a rotary wire brush and
wash them in paraffin.
Wash the valve springs,
caps, seats and collets and
dry.
/ • Before grinding-in the
valves, clean the tops of the
valve heads back to shiny
metal. Now the sucker on the end of your valve
grinding stick won't keep falling off when you grind-
in the valves!
head. Don't hesitate to seek the advice of your local agent if
you have any doubts.
• Step 14: Examine the valve seats for pitting or burning.
Also, check the valve seats in the cylinder head. Small pits can
be removed by grinding the valves onto their seats. The seats
in the cylinder head will have to be recut (again, by your local
FIAT agent if the pitting is too deep), and new valves fitted.
B INSIDE INFORMATION! These cylinder heads use
hardened valves and seats for use with unleaded petrol.
We advise you to consult your FIAT agent or engine
specialist for machining if anything other than light
valve grinding is required. B
FACT FILE: VALVE GRINDING
• Step 15: Apply a small quantity of
coarse grinding paste evenly round the valve
seat. A valve grinding stick with a suction pad
slightly smaller than the valve head should
be selected. Put a dab of moisture onto the suction pad and
press the grinding stick to the first valve.
• Step 16: Lower
the valve stem into its
guide and, holding the
grinding stick
between the palms of
your hands, rub your
hands together (like a
bushman making a
fire), rotating the
valve and grinding the
two seats together.
Lift the valve
regularly, say every
ten or so turns, to
allow the grinding
paste to be redis-
tributed. When you
can feel the paste
wearing smooth,
remove the valve and
wipe all the surfaces
clean. A complete ring
of grey contact area
should be visible on
the valve head and its
seat in the cylinder head. If necessary, start off with coarse
paste to remove the deeper pits, and finally use fine paste to
obtain a smooth finish.
• Make sure that no paste is allowed to enter the guide. This
would cause a lot of wear to the valve stem and guide.
• A narrow contact band means more seat pressure and
longer life. A wide band allows rapid valve burning.
• A complete ring of grey contact area should be visible on
the valve head and its seat in the cylinder head.
• If necessary, start off with coarse paste to remove the
deeper pits, and finally use fine paste to obtain a smooth
finish.
• If pitting is too bad, you could have the valve face and the
valve seats resurfaced or, in worst cases, the valve and/or valve
seat (in the cylinder head) will have to be replaced.
• Consult your FIAT dealer or engine specialist if in doubt.
LJ Step 11: The cylinder head is made of light alloy and is
easily damaged when being cleaned. Use a rotary wire brush
for the combustion chambers and ports, but no sharp objects
such as screwdrivers should be used. The machined surfaces
must have all traces of old gasket removed by use of a straight
edge. Then wash down with paraffin to remove old oil and
dirt and dry with clean rag.
At all costs, avoid gouging
the cylinder head. This can
be very expensive to have
put right.
• Step 13: The cylinder
head can be checked for
distortion by use of a
straight edge and feeler
gauge. At the same time check for excessive corrosion. If you
are in doubt, or if the old gasket had blown, have the cylinder
head refaced by your FIAT agent or engine specialist. The
valves should be checked for side movement in their guides.
Anything but the very slightest tells you that the valve guides
are in need of replacement. Your local FIAT agent or engine
specialist should do this job. Examine the valve seats for
pitting or burning, also check their mating seats in the cylinder
72

G Step 17: Now repeat this operation on the remaining
valves.
G Step 18: Wash the whole cylinder head again using
paraffin and an old brush, making sure that all traces of
grinding paste are removed, then dry off. Use compressed air

if
available.
SAFETY FIRST!
•
Treat
compressed air with respect. Always wear

goggles
to protect your eyes.
•
Never
allow the airline nozzle near any of the body Sep apertures.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! Check the height of the valve
springs against new ones if possible, but if not, compare
them with each other. If any are shorter than the others,
play safe and replace the complete set. They are bound
to have suffered fatigue which could cause premature
valve failure. H
G Step 19: To install the valves, start from one end.
Lubricate a valve stem with fresh engine oil and slide it in to its
guide.
G Step 20: Locate a new valve stem seal over the stem of

the valve
(if applicable) and push down into contact with the
guide. Position the seal on its seat using a suitable metal tube.
G Step 21: Refit the flat washer and spring seat.
G Step 22: Position the inner and outer springs and the

spring
cap.
G Step 23: Re-apply the valve spring compressor and

compress
the springs enough to allow you to engage the split
collets
in
the stem grooves.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! Grease the grooves so that the
collets will 'stick' in place. The collets are easily fitted by
'sticking' the backs of them onto the end of a screw-
driver with some grease and feeding them into
position. B
G Step 24: Carefully release the spring compressor and

check
that the collets are correctly located. Tap the end of the

stem with
a hammer, to bed them in.
G Step 25: Fit the remaining valves.
Job 5. Petrol engine -
dismantling.
G Step 1: Familiarise yourself with the layout of the engine.

Refer to
illustration Job
2-1
for an exploded view of the

engine
components.
G Step 2: Drain the engine oil. Remove the cylinder head.
See
Job 2.

G Step 3: Remove the distributor. See PART D: IGNITION
• Step 4:
Remove the petrol
pump and spacer
block, if the
mechanical type
(a). (Electric fuel
pumps are in the
fuel tank.)
• Step 5:
Remove and
discard the oil filter
illustration Job
5-4,

• Step 6: Remove the water pump complete with its distri-
bution pipe, and the power steering pump (if fitted).
Q Step 7: Remove the alternator, the crankshaft pulley, the
crankshaft and camshaft sprockets, the cam belt tensioner
and the cam belt cover backplate.
• Step 8:
Remove the
auxiliary shaft
sprocket...
• Step 9: ...the
end plate and
seal, and remove
the auxiliary shaft.
• Step 10:
Undo and remove
the clutch, and
then the flywheel.
• Step 11: Turr
engine assembly c
remove the sump
and remove the crankcase breather (see
part b) with its pipe.

• Step 12: Take off the oil
pump (the three larger bolts)...
• Step 13: ...and the return
pipe.
• Step 14: Undo and
remove the front crankshaft
seal carrier (5 bolts)...
hammer handle and tap
the piston/
connecting rod
assemblies
carefully up
and out of the
bores...
• Step 15: and
the rear crankshaft
seal carrier (6 bolts).
• Step 19:
...keeping them in
the correct order
and the matching
conrods and bearing
caps together.
• • Step
20: Bearing
shells are
best removed
by sliding
them out,
pushing the
tab-end out
first.
• Step 16: Check that all the
connecting rods and their big-end
bearing caps are marked with
matching numbers, starting from
the timing cover end. Make sure
that the markings tell you which
way round they go! If not, add
your own marks with a centre
punch before removing.
• Step 22: Undo
and remove them,
keeping them in
order.
• Step 23: Lift
the crankshaft clear
of the cylinder block.
• Step 17: Undo
the securing bolts and
remove the caps,
keeping them in their
correct order.
• Step 21:
Check that the
five crankshaft
main bearing
caps are correctly
marked, starting
from the timing
cover end.

• Step 24:
Remember to retrieve

the
two thrust
washers from the

end
main bearing in
the block. There are
none in the cap.
If so, you will probably need a new housing. If you are
replacing the camshaft, fit new followers as well.
IMPORTANT NOTE: All bearings, shells, piston rings and
ALL seals that bear on moving parts MUST be copiously
lubricated with fresh engine oil as the engine is being
reassembled. Work ONLY in clean conditions, with clean
components and clean hands. Re-assemble in the reverse
order of the dismantling procedure and take note of the
following steps which will help you carry out a smooth
operation.
Engine Reassembly lob 6. Petrol engine -
checking and reassembly.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: It is good policy to change the
oil pump when carrying out an engine overhaul. A
replacement engine supplied by your FIAT agent would
include a new pump. D
Checking for Wear
GENERAL
All parts must be thoroughly cleaned for inspection
-
still
keeping them in the right order for reassembly in case they

are to
be re used. Check each component as follows:
CYLINDER BLOCK

Look
for any cracks in the casting, particularly at bolt holes

and
between cylinders. Check the bores for score marks,
caused by burned pistons or broken rings. Check for a wear

ridge just
below the top of the bore where the top piston ring

ends its
travel. If any of these defects are present in any of the
cylinders, they will have to be rebored. Ask your FIAT dealer or

engine
specialist to inspect and measure the bores for wear if

you
are unsure. It is sometimes possible to 'glaze bust' the

bores and
fit new piston rings, assuming the pistons and bores

to be in
reasonable condition. All of this work can be carried

out by
your FIAT dealer.
CRANKSHAFT
Check
all
the mains journals and crankpins for any signs of
wear ridges round the circumference or scoring of the surface.

Check
for ovality with a suitable micrometer, 0.005 mm being

the maximum
permissible amount. Check the shell bearings,

which
should have an even, dull grey finish. If this has worn

through
to the copper coloured backing, or if the crankshaft

has any
of the previously mentioned faults, the crankshaft

should
be reground by your specialist who will also supply the

new shell
bearings and thrust washers.

Check
the crankshaft end float by using a feeler gauge
between the thrust washer and the crankshaft. Thicker

washers
are available if required, see Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures.
CAMSHAFT
Check each cam lobe for wear, which can be quite rapid once
started. The cam followers should also be checked, particularly

where
they contact the cam lobe. Check the five camshaft

bearings
and their corresponding surfaces in the housing for a

smooth
shiny surface without wear ridges. Check the cam
follower bores in the camshaft housing for pitting or scoring.
Job 6-1
Q Step 1: Make sure you have all the necessary gaskets,
available from your FIAT dealership.
CRANKSHAFT
• Step 2: Apply some
grease to the smooth side of
the thrust washers and 'stick'
them in position either side of
No. 1 main bearing.

• Step 7: Using a suitable screwdriver, prise out the old oil
seal from the front housing or drift it out, as shown.
PISTON/CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLIES
• Step 11:
Fitting the
gudgeon pin in
connecting rod -
piston assembly.
Fit new circlips to the ends of the gudgeon pins.
• Step 12: Note the
correct piston offset
relative to the auxiliary
shaft (1). Note the
positions of the con-rod
cylinder bore numbers (2).
Q Step 5: Screw the bolts in finger tight and check that the
crankshaft rotates freely and smoothly.
Q Step 6: Tighten the bolts evenly and progressively until
the specified torque setting is reached. See Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures. Check again that the crankshaft rotates
smoothly.
• Step 3: Make sure
the bearing seats in the
block are perfectly clean
and locate the shells so
that their tabs engage
with the slots. Lubricate
the shells liberally with
fresh engine oil and
lower the crankshaft
into position.
• Step 4: Fit the remaining halves of the shells into the
bearing caps, lubricate threm and position the caps the right
way round and in the correct order.
Fit the piston in the
connecting rod,
positioning it so
that the flat part of
the crown is facing
the same way as
the cylinder bore
number on the connecting rod. See Step 12.
Job
6-12

• Step 13 A:
Make sure the
bores and
pistons are
clean. Position
the piston ring
gaps at equal
intervals round
the pistons
circumference
and lubricate
well. Make
sure the rings are fitted with the word 'TOP' facing upwards
where marked.
1
• Step 9: Refit the housing
with a new gasket and make
sure that the housing face is
flush with the face of the
cylinder block by using a
straight edge across the
surfaces, then tighten the
bolts.
• Step 10: Take the rear oil
seal housing and repeat Step
7 to Step 9
Q Step 8: Clean the oil seal recess in the housing and drive
the new seal into position, preferably using a suitably sized
socket
-
the lip of the seal facing in towards the block.
Lubricate the seal with copious
amounts of fresh engine oil.
• Step 13B:
Alternatively, use
a special piston
ring fitting tool,
if you have one
-

or have your
dealer do it for
you.