1988 FIAT TEMPRA Service And Repair Manual

Windscreen and Mirrors
O 16. In zone 'A' of your windscreen, no items of damage larger than 10 mm in diameter will be allowed. In the rest of the area swept by the windscreen wipers, no damage greater than 40 mm in diameter will be allowed, nor should windscreen stickers or other obstructions encroach on this area.
o 17. Check that the exterior mirror on the driver's side is in good condition.
o 18. There must be one other mirror in good condition, either inside the car or an external mirror on the passenger's side.
Brakes
O 19. You cannot check the brakes
properly without a rolling road brake
tester but you can carry out the
following checks:
O 20. Pull on the handbrake. It should be fully ON before the handbrake reaches the end of its travel.
O 21. Knock the handbrake from side to side and check that it does not then release itself.
O 22. Check the security of the handbrake mountings and check the floor around it for rust or splits.
o 23. Check that the brake pedal is in good condition and that, when you take hold of it and move it from side to side, there is not too much play.
o 24. Push the footbrake down hard, with your foot. If it creeps slowly down to the floor, there is probably a problem with the master cylinder. Release the pedal, and after a few seconds, press down again. If the pedal feels spongy or it travels nearly to the floor, there is air in the system or another MoT-failing fault with the brakes.
o 25. Check the servo unit (when
fitted) as follows: Pump the pedal
several times then hold it down hard.
Start the engine. As the engine starts,
the pedal should move down slightly.
If it doesn't the servo or the vacuum
hose leading to it may be faulty.
Seat Belts and Seats
O 26. Examine all of the webbing (pull out the belts from the inertia reel if necessary) for cuts, fraying or deterioration.
o 27. Check that each inertia reel belt retracts correctly.
o 28. Fasten and unfasten each belt to ensure that the buckles work correctly.
o 29. Tug hard on each belt and inspect the mountings, as far as possible, to ensure that all are okay.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Checks apply to
rear seat belts as much as front
ones.
O 30. Make sure that the seat runners and mountings are secure and that the back rest locks in the upright position.
Doors and Door Locks
O 31. Check that both front doors latch securely when closed and that both can be opened and closed from both outside and inside the car.
PART B: VEHICLE ON THE GROUND
Electrical Equipment
See Part A: INSIDE THE CAR for checks on the operation of the electrical equipment.
O 1. Examine the wiper blades and replace those that show any damage.
Vehicle Identification
Numbers (VIIU)
O 2. The VIN (or chassis number on older vehicles) must be clearly displayed and legible.
O 3. Number plates must be secure, legible and in good condition with correct spacing between letters and numbers. Any non-standard spacing will not be accepted.
Braking System
O 4. Inside the engine bay inspect the master cylinder, servo unit (if fitted), brake pipes and mountings. Look for corrosion, loose fitting or leaks.
Steering and Suspension
OS . While still in the engine bay, have your assistant turn the steering wheel lightly from side to side and look for play in steering universal joints or steering rack mountings and any other steering connections.
OE. If your vehicle is fitted with power steering, check the security and condition of the steering pump, hoses and drivebelt, in the engine bay.
O 7. Look and reach under the car while your assistant turns the steering wheel more vigorously from side to side. Place your hand over each track rod end in turn and inspect all of the steering linkages, joints and attachments for wear.
o 8. Go around the vehicle and
'bounce' each corner of the
vehicle in turn. Release at the lowest
point and the vehicle should rise and
settle in its normal position without
continuing to 'bounce' of its own
accord.

PART C: VEHICLE RAISED OFF THE GROUND
Bodywork Structure
01
.
Any sharp edges on the external bodywork, caused by damage or corrosion will cause the vehicle to fail.
02 . Check all load bearing areas for corrosion. Open the doors and check the sills inside and out, above and below. Any corrosion in structural metalwork within 30 cm (12 in.) of seat belt mounting, steering and suspension attachment points will cause the vehicle to fail.
Wheels and Tyres
Under the Front of the
Car
You will need to support the front of the car on axle stands with the rear wheels firmly chocked in both directions.
OE . Have your helper turn the steering from lock to lock and check that the steering turns smoothly and that the brake hoses or pipes do not contact the wheel, tyre or any part of the steering or suspension.
TWI
Ob . To pass the test, the tread must be at least 1.6 mm deep throughout a continuous band comprising the central three-quarters of the width of the tread. The Tread Wear Indicators (TWI) will tell you when the limit has been reached, on most tyres.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Tyres are past their best, especially in wet conditions, well before this point is reached!
04 . Check that the front tyres match and that the rear tyres match each other
-
in terms of size and type but not necessarily make. They must be the correct size for the vehicle and the pressures must be correct.
05 . With each wheel off the ground in turn, check the inside and the outside of the tyre wall for cuts, lumps and bulges and check the wheel for damage. Note that tyres deteriorate progressively over a period of time and if they have degraded to this extent, replace them.
07 . Have your assistant hold down the brake pedal firmly. Check each brake flexible hose for bulges or leaks.
o 8. Inspect all the rigid brake pipes underneath the front of the vehicle for corrosion or leaks and also look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake calipers. Rigid fuel pipes need to be checked in the same way.
09 . At each full lock position, check the steering rack rubber gaiters for splits, leaks or loose retaining clips.
o 10. Check the track rod end dust covers to make sure they are in place.
o 11. Inspect each constant velocity joint gaiter
-
both inners and outers
-
for splits or damage. You will have to rotate each wheel to see the gaiters all the way round.
O 12. Check all of the suspension rubber mountings, including the anti-rollbar mountings (when fitted). Take a firm grip on each shock absorber in turn with both hands and try to twist the damper to check for deterioration in the top and bottom mounting bushes.
o 13. Underneath the front wheel arches, check that the shock absorbers are not corroded, that the springs have not cracked and that there are no fluid leaks down the body of the shock absorber.
o 14. While under the front end of the car, check the front of the exhaust system for security of fixing at the manifold, for corrosion and secure fixing to the mounting points.
o 15. Preferably working with a helper, grasp each front road wheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and try rocking the wheel. Look for movement or wear at the suspension ball joints, suspension mountings, steering mountings and at the wheel bearing
-
look for movement between the wheel and hub. Repeat the test by grasping the road wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and rocking once more.
o 16. Spin each wheel and check for noise or roughness in the wheel bearing and binding in either the wheel bearing or the brake.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Don't forget that on front wheel drive cars, the gearbox must be in neutral. There will be a certain amount of noise and drag from the drivetrain components.
O 17. If you suspect wear at any of the suspension points, try levering with a screwdriver to see whether or not you can confirm any movement in that area.
o 18. Vehicles fitted with other suspension types such as hydraulic suspension, torsion bar suspension etc. need to be checked in a similar way with the additional point that there must be no fluid leaks or damaged pipes on vehicles with hydraulic suspension.
Underneath the Rear
of the Car
O 19. Inspect the rear springs for security at their mounting points and for cracks, severe corrosion or damage.
o 20. Check the rear shock absorbers in the same way as the checks carried out for the fronts.
o 21. Check all rear suspension mounting points, including the rubbers to any locating rods or anti-rollbar that may be fitted.
O 22. Check all of the flexible and rigid brake pipes and the fuel pipes just as for the front of the vehicle.
30

O 23. Have your assistant press down firmly on the brake pedal while you check the rear brake flexible hoses for bulges, splits or other deterioration.
o 24. Check the fuel tank for leaks or corrosion. Remember also to check the fuel filler cap
-
a correctly sealing filler cap is a part of the MoT test.
O 25. Examine the handbrake mechanism. Frayed or broken cables or worn mounting points, either to the bodywork or in the linkage will all be failure points.
o 26. Check each of the rear wheel
bearings as for the fronts.
o 27. Spin each rear wheel and check that neither the wheel bearings nor the brakes are binding. Pull on and let off the handbrake and check once again to make sure that the handbrake mechanism is releasing.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Only run the car out of doors.
• Beware of burning yourself on a hot exhaust system.
o 28. While you are out from under the car, but with the rear end still raised off the ground, run the engine. Hold a rag over the end of the exhaust
pipe and listen for blows or leaks in the system. You can now get back under the car and investigate further if necessary.
o 29. Check the exhaust system mountings and check for rust, corrosion or holes in the rear part of the system.
o 30. Check the rear brake back plate or calipers (as appropriate) for any signs of fluid leakage.
o 31. Check the insides and the outsides of the tyres as well as the tyre treads for damage, as for the front tyres.
PART D: EXHAUST EMISSIONS
This is an area that is impossible to
check accurately at home. However,
the following rule-of-thumb tests will
give you a good idea whether your car
is likely to fail or not.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: If you
feel that your car is likely to fail
because of the emission test, have
your MoT testing station carry out
the emission part of the test first so
that if it fails, you don't waste
money on having the rest of the
test carried out. Q
O 1. PETROL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1973 AND DIESEL ENGINES BEFORE 1 AUGUST 1979 only have to pass visible smoke check. Rev the engine to about 2,500 rpm (about half maximum speed) for 20 seconds and then allow it to return to idle. If too much smoke is emitted (in the opinion of the tester) the car will fail.
O 2.DIESEL ENGINES FROM 1 AUGUST 1979 The engine will have to be taken up to maximum revs several times by the tester, so make certain that your timing belt is in good condition, otherwise severe damage could be caused to your engine. If the latter happens, it will be your responsibility!
FACT FILE: VEHICLE EMISSIONS

PETROL
ENGINED VEHICLES WITHOUT
CATALYSER

Vehicles first used before 1 August 1973

• visual smoke check only.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1973 and 31 July 1986

• 4.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.

Vehicles first used between 1 August 1986 and 31 July 1992

• 3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million, unburned
hydrocarbons.
PETROL ENGINED VEHICLES FITTED WITH
CATALYTIC

CONVERTERS
i

Vehicles first used from 1 August 1992
(K-registration on)

• All have to be tested at an MoT Testing Station specially equipped to
handle cars fitted with catalytic converters whether or not the vehicle
is fitted with a 'cat'. If
the
test, or the garage's data, shows that the
vehicle was not fitted with a 'cat' by the manufacturer, the owner is
permitted to take the vehicle to
a
Testing Station not equipped for
catalysed cars, if he/she prefers to do so (up to 1998-only). Required
maxima are
-
3.5% carbon monoxide and 1,200 parts per million,
unburned hydrocarbons. The simple emissions test (as above) will be
supplemented by a further check to make sure that the catalyst is
maintained in
good
and efficient working order.
• The tester also has to check that the engine oil is up to a specified
temperature before carrying out the test. (This is because 'cats' don't
work properly at lower temperatures
-
ensure your engine is fully
warm!)
DIESEL ENGINES'EMISSIONS
STANDARDS

• The Tester will have to rev your engine hard,
several times. If it is not in good condition, he is
entitled to refuse to test it. This is the full range of
tests, even though all may not apply to your car.

Vehicles first used before 1 August, 1979

• Engine run at normal running temperature; engine speed taken to
around 2,500 rpm (or half
governed
max. speed, if lower) and held for
20 seconds. FAILURE, if engine emits dense blue or black smoke for
next 5 seconds, at tick-over. (NOTE: Testers are allowed to be more
lenient with pre-1960 vehicles.)

Vehicles first used on or after 1 August, 1979

• After checking engine condition, and with the engine at normal
running temperature, the engine will be run up to full revs between
three and six times to see whether your engine passes the prescribed
smoke density test. (For what it's worth
-
2.5k for non-turbo cars; 3.0k
for turbo diesels. An opacity meter probe will be placed in your car's
exhaust pipe and this is not something you can replicate at home.)
Irrespective of the meter readings, the car will fail if
smoke
or vapour
obscures the view of other road users.
• IMPORTANT NOTE: The diesel engine test puts a lot of stress on the
engine. It is IMPERATIVE that your car's engine is properly serviced,
and the cam belt changed on schedule, before you take it in for the
MoT test. The tester is entitled to refuse to test the car if
he
feels that
the engine is not in serviceable condition and there are a number of
pre-Test checks he may carry out.

Please read the whole of the Introduction to this Chapter before carrying out any work on your car.
CHAPTER 5
SERVICING YOUR CAR
Everyone wants to own a
car that starts first time,
runs reliably and lasts
longer than the average.
And it's all a question of
thorough maintenance!
If you follow the FIAT-
approved Service Jobs
listed here you can almost
guarantee that your car will
still be going strong when
others have fallen by the
wayside
-
or the hard
shoulder.
How To Use This Chapter
This chapter contains all of the servicing Jobs recommended
by FIAT for all models of Tipo and Tempra imported into the
UK except cars with 1.8 and 2 litre DOHC petrol engines. To
use the schedule, note that:
• Each letter code tells you the Service Interval at which you
should carry out each Service Job.
• Each Service Job has a Job number.
• Look up the number in the relevant part of this chapter and
you will see a complete explanation of the work.
SAFETY FIRST!
SAFETY FIRST information must always be read with
care and always taken seriously.
• In addition, please read the whole of Chapter 1,
Safety First! before carrying out any work on your
car.
• There are many hazards associated with working on
a car but all of them can be avoided by adhering
strictly to the safety rules.
• Don't skimp on safety!
SERVICE INTERVALS - INTRODUCTION
• We think it is very
important to keep things as
straightforward as possible.
And where you see this heading, you'll know there's
an extra tip to help 'make it easy' for you!
Over the years, FIAT, in common with all other manufacturers,
have lengthened their recommended service intervals. For
instance, oil changes on later FIATs don't have to take place as
often as earlier ones. In the main, these changes have not
come about because of specific modifications to the cars
themselves. They have come about because of a number of
factors: Lubricants, spark plugs, seals and other components
have improved and mechanical parts are better made due to
improved materials and production techniques.
As a result, you are recommended to follow the maker's
recommendations on how often to service your car. If your car
lies right on a change-over point, the choice of which
schedule to follow will be yours, unless the specific advice
given here recommends otherwise
-
as we said earlier, most
change points came about for a number of reasons, so it
generally isn't necessary to identify with pinpoint accuracy
which bracket your car belongs to, if it isn't obvious.
32

Thanks
are due to the excellent, knowledgeable and helpful staff at FIAT main dealers, Ryauto of Amblecote, in the West
Midlands for supplying vehicles and for their assistance with this chapter. In particular, thanks are due to the efficient Maurice
Hough, Service Manager, the experienced Foreman, Tony Morris, and young demon mechanic, Matthew Worsfold.
Some of the suggested inspection/replacement intervals may not correspond to those shown in the original handbook. The suggested
schedule, based on FIAT'S recommendations, takes into account the age of the vehicle and the annual MoT test in the UK.
In practice, because of the split between (mainly) 12 month/9,000 mile and 18 month/13,500 mile intervals, you will need to
service your Tipo or Tempra at most, if not every, 6 month interval.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Each service should be carried out at EITHER the recommended mileage OR the recommended time
interval, whichever comes first.
SERVICE INTERVAL CHART
SERVICE INTERVALS: KEY
A
-
Every week, or before every long journey. F
-
Every 3 years or 27,000 miles.
B
-
Every 6 months, or 4,500 miles. G
-
Every 4 years or 36,000 miles.
C - Every 12 months, or 9,000 miles. H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles. D - Every 18 months , or 13,500 miles.
H
-
Every 6 years or 54,000 miles.
I
-
Every 63,000 miles.
E
-
Every 2 years or 18,000 miles J
-
Every 72,000 miles.
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level A
Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level A
Job 3. Brake/clutch fluid
-
check level A
Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level A
Job 5. Screen washer fluid
-
check level A
Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and
condition (road wheels) A
Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs A
PART B: THE ENGINE AND
COOLING SYSTEM
Job 8
-
Petrol. Change engine oil and filter C
Job 8
-
Diesel. Change engine oil and filter B
Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation H
Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances D
Job 11. Check camshaft timing belt F
Job 12. Change camshaft timing belt I
Job 13. Check cooling system C
Job 14. Change engine coolant E
PART C: TRANSMISSION
Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level C
Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil J
Job 17. Check auto, transmission fluid level C
Job 18. Change auto, transmission
fluid and filter F
Job 19. Check driveshaft gaiters C
Job 20. Check/adjust clutch C
Job 21. Check auto, transmission selector
cable E
PART D: IGNITION AND ELECTRICS
SERVICE INTERVALS
Job 22. Check/clean/gap spark plugs B
Job 23. Change spark plugs D
Job 24. Check/clean HT leads and
distributor cap C
Job 25. Check ignition timing C
Job 26. Check/adjust drive belt/s D
Job 27. Check electric fan operation C
Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test D
PART E: FUEL AND EXHAUST
Job 29. Check fuel pipes for leaks C
Job 30. Change petrol air filter D
Job 31. Change diesel air filter C
Job 32. Change petrol fuel filter F
Job 33. Drain diesel fuel filter B
Job 34. Change diesel fuel filter C
Job 35. Check/adjust petrol engine idle
and emissions C
Job 36. Check emission/evaporative/EGR systems F
Job 37. Check Lambda sensor F
Job 38. Check/adjust diesel idle speed C
Job 39. Check/adjust diesel injection timing E
Job 40. Check inlet and exhaust manifold fixings D
Job 41. Check exhaust system C
PART F: STEERING AND
SUSPENSION
Job 42. Check front wheel bearings C
Job 43. Check front suspension C
Job 44. Check steering column, joints and rack C
Job 45. Check power steering fluid C
Job 46. Check rear wheel bearings C
Job 47. Check rear suspension C
Job 48. Check wheel bolts for tightness C

PART G: BRAKING SYSTEM
Job 49. Check front brakes
Job 50. Check rear brakes
Job 51. Check/adjust handbrake
Job 52. Check brake pipes
Job 53. Change brake hydraulic fluid
SERVICE INTERVALS
C
C
C
C
E
Job 56. Check seat and seat belt mountings C
Job 57. Check headlight alignment C
Job 58. Check underbody C
Job 59. Check spare tyre B
Job 60. Change pollen filter C
Job 61. Replace airbag gas generator 10 years
PART I: ROAD TEST
PART H: BODYWORK & INTERIOR
Job 54. Lubricate hinges and locks
Job 55. Check windscreen
Job 62. Road test and specialist check. AFTER EVERY
SERVICE

ENGINE BAY LAYOUTS
These are the engine bay layouts common to almost all Tipo/Tempras. Note that there is no carburettor fitted to fuel-injected
vehicles.
1 - PETROL ENGINES 2 - DIESEL ENGINES
1
-
oil filler cap 7
-
distributor (ignition) 12 - oil filter location
2
-
engine oil dipstick 8
-
coil (ignition) 13
-
fuel pump (mechanical)
3
-
coolant filler cap 9
-
electronic control unit (ECU), 14
-
diesel injection pump
4 - brake fluid reservoir Digiplex 2 15
-
alternator location (behind engine)
5 - battery 10
-
air filter housing
6
-
screenwash reservoir cap 11
-
fuel filter
PART A: REGULAR CHECKS
1B. ...and the diesel's
dipstick is in a similar
spot, located at the
front edge of the
timing cover, behind
the right-hand
headlight.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: The
difference between MIN and MAX
marks is approximately one litre of
oil. Q
We recommend that these Jobs are carried out on a weekly
basis, as well as before every long journey. They consist of
checks essential for your safety and for your car's reliability.
• Job 1. Engine oil
-
check level.
Check the engine oil level with the car on level ground. If the
engine has been running, leave it turned off for several
minutes to let the oil drain into the sump.
1A. All petrol engines
have the dipstick at
the front of the block,
towards the timing
belt end...
1C. Lift the dipstick out,
wipe it dry and re-insert it. The oil
level is correct when between the
MAX and MIN marks.

TOPPING-UP
1D. On petrol
engines the oil
filler cap is pull-
out rectangular
plug at the end
of the rocker
On diesel engines, the round cap is near the same end of the
cam cover. This cap is removed by turning a quarter-turn to
the left and lifting.
DIESEL ENGINES
Top-up, if necessary using a 50:50 mixture of distilled water
and Paraflu anti-freeze.
cover adjacent to
the distributor.
Note that on some models, the cap is circular.
1E. Pour in the
fresh oil carefully,
preferably using a
funnel. A clean
plastic bottle with
the bottom cut
off is ideal!
IMPORTANT NOTE: Regularly check the ground over
which the car has been parked for traces of oil or other
fluid leaks. If a leak is found, don't drive the car without
first finding out where the leak is from, and ideally,
repairing it.
G Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level.
SAFETY FIRST!
• ALWAYS check the coolant level with the engine
COLD
• If the engine is hot there is a real danger of

scalding
from boiling coolant gushing from the tank
when the cap is removed.
Never allow the coolant level to fall below the MIN (or UVELLO
A FREDDO) mark on the expansion tank. It is vitally important
that all engines have the correct proportion of anti-freeze in
the coolant all year round to prevent corrosion. A 50% mix of
distilled water with FL Paraflu coolant gives the best
protection.
• Job 3. Brake/dutch fluid
-
check level/s.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On later models, a hydraulic clutch is
fitted. The same fluid reservoir serves both brakes and
clutch.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If brake fluid should come into contact with skin or
eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water.
• It is acceptable for the brake fluid level to fall
slightly during normal use, but if it falls significantly
below the MIN mark on the reservoir there is probably
a leak or internal seal failure. Stop using the car until
the problem has been put right.
• If you let dirt get into the hydraulic system it can
cause brake failure. Wipe the filler cap clean before
removing it.
• You should only ever use new brake fluid from a
sealed container
-
FIAT recommend FL Tutela Top 4
brake fluid. Old fluid absorbs moisture and this could
cause the brakes to fail when carrying out an
emergency stop or during another heavy use of the
brakes
-
just when you need them most and are least
able to do anything about it, in fact!
On all models the brake fluid reservoir is positioned above the
master cylinder either in the rear right-hand or rear left-hand
corner of the engine bay, according to model. The reservoir is
semi-transparent so the level can be checked without
disturbing the cap.
PETROL ENGINES
2A. The coolant should be just
below the remote header tank
filler neck
-
about 25 mm
(1
in)
above the MIN (or UVELLO A
FREDDO) mark on the tank
(arrowed). This is the header tank
(screw-on cap, removed), on the
passenger-side of the engine bay,

at
the very front of the engine
bay.
3. If brake fluid topping-up is
required, turn the cap without
allowing the centre section to
turn. This section, with two wires
attached, swivels in the cap.
Place the cap and float to one
side
-
take care not to drip fluid
from the float
-
and top up with
FL Tutela Top 4 brake and
clutch fluid.
Check that the brake fluid-level
warning-light is operating. Turn
the ignition key to the MAR
I
i 3
»35
2B. Check the
level as described

in
Job 2A.
Unscrew the
coolant filler cap
anti-clockwise
and remove it.
DON'T confuse
the coolant cap
with the smaller
windscreen washer fluid cap, to one side of it.

(ignition-ON) position and press down the button between the
two terminals on the reservoir cap
-
when fitted. The warning
light on the dash should light up. When no button is fitted,
unscrew and raise the cap (ignition key ON) to check the
warning light. Check the bulb, check the fuse, or have your
FIAT dealer repair the warning system, if faulty.
• Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level.
FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE
BATTERY
• Many vehicles depend on a constant
power supply from the battery; with
these you find yourself in trouble if you
simply disconnect the battery. You
might find the car alarm goes off, or that the engine
management system forgets all it ever 'learned', making
the car feel odd to drive until it has re-programmed
itself. You might also find that the radio refuses to
operate until its correct security code is keyed into it.
• On cars with engine management systems and/or
coded radios, you must ensure the car has a constant
electrical supply, even with the battery removed. You
will need a separate 12 volt battery; put a self-tapping
screw into the positive lead near the battery terminal
before disconnecting it, and put a positive connection
to your other battery via this screw.
• Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL to wrap insulation tape
around the connection so that no short is caused. The
negative terminal on the other battery must be
connected to the car's bodywork.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The gas given off by a battery is highly explosive.
Never smoke, use a naked flame or allow a spark in
the battery compartment.
• Never disconnect the battery (it can cause sparking)
with the battery caps removed.
• All vehicle batteries contain sulphuric acid. If the
acid comes into contact with the skin or eyes, wash
immediately with copious amounts of cold water and
seek medjcal advice.
• Do not check the battery levels within half an hour
of the battery being charged with a separate battery
charger because the addition of fresh water could
cause electrolyte to flood out.
4. Check the electrolyte
level in the battery. MAX
and MIN lines (arrowed)
are moulded into the
translucent battery
casing. In the case of
non-FIAT-supplied
batteries, the cell caps or
strip (a) may need to be
removed to see the level.
Original FIAT batteries are of the 'maintenance-free' type and
usually do not need topping-up. However, if necessary, top up
after prising off the cell sealing strip with a screwdriver. Top-
up each cell ONLY with distilled or de-ionised water.
• Job 5. Screen/headlight washer fluid
check level.
5A. Top up with a mixture of
water and screen-wash
additive, mixed according to
the instructions on the
container. FIAT recommend
Arexons DP1. The reservoir
for front screen, rear screen
and headlights (as appro-
priate) is situated in the engine
bay: adjacent to the left-hand
strut, behind the battery...
5B. ...and behind the
coolant expansion
tank on diesel
models, as illustrated
here.
• Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and condition
(road wheels).
/
6A. Check the tyre
pressures using a
reliable and accurate
gauge. Note that the
recommended
pressures (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures) are given for ^^
iH^KKSEI ^ "'

COLD tyres. Tyres
warm up as the car is used
-
and warm tyres give a false (high)
reading. You should also check for wear or damage at the
same time.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If a tyre is worn more on one side than another,
consult your FIAT dealer or a tyre specialist. It probably
means the tracking needs re-setting, though it could
indicate suspension damage, so have it checked.
• If a tyre is worn more in the centre or on the edges,
this indicates incorrect tyre pressures.
• Incorrectly inflated tyres wear rapidly, can give
dangerous handling, and can worsen fuel
consumption.
Every three months,
raise each wheel off
the ground and turn it
slowly between your
36
6B. Every few weeks, examine the tyre treads for wear using a
tread-depth gauge. This will help you keep safe and on the
right side of the law!
Check treads visually
every time you check
the pressures.