2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 ESP

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at thearea of the suspected leak. If an oil leak
source is not readily identifiable, thefollowingstepsshouldbefollowed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents maycause rubber to swell, temporarily
stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15
minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color
under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
1. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
2. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valvegrommet.
3. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
4. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applyingsoapy water at the suspected source.
Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak
source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
5. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area Leak.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV
valve and breather cap hose.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter
runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

BEARINGS - CRANKSHAFT MAIN
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING - FITTING
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)
Crankshaft removed from the cylinder block.
Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.
Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each end
of the journal.
The maximum allowable taper is 0.008mm (0.0004 inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005mm (0.0002 inch).
Compare the measured diameter with the journal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting Chart). Select inserts
required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION
The main bearings are “select fit” to achieve proper oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crankshaft coun-
terweight has grade identification marks stamped into it. These marks areread from left to right, corresponding with
journalnumber1,2,3,4and5.
NOTE: Service main bearings are coded. These codes identify what size (grade) the bearing is.
MAIN BEARING SELECTION CHART - 5.7L
GRADE SIZE mm (in.) FOR USE WITH
MARKING JOURNAL SIZE
A0.008 mm U/S 64.988–64.995 mm
(0.0004 in.) U/S (2.5585– 2.5588in.)
BNOMINAL 64.996–65.004 mm
(2.5588–2.5592 in.)
C0.008 mm O/S 65.005–65.012 mm
(0.0004 in.) O/S (2.5592–2.5595 in.)
INSPECTION
Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal wear
patterns and for metal or other foreign material imbed-
ded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert wear pat-
terns are illustrated.
NOTE: If any of the crankshaft journals are scored,
the crankshaft must be repaired or replaced.
Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapings
or irregular wear patterns.
Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.
Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.

TAPPETS - HYDRAULIC ROLLER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise, checkthe oil pressure. If vehicle has no oil
pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be between 207-552 kPa
(30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize oil level,
check dipstick. The oil level in the pan should never be above the FULL mark or below the ADD OIL mark on
dipstick. Either of these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible for the connecting rods todip into the oil. With the engine running,
this condition could create foam in the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump
causing them to lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When air is fed to the tappets,they lose length, which allows valves
to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil pump through which air can bedrawn will create the same tappet
action. Check the lubrication system from the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the relief valve retainer
cap. When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will
be noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient
time to allow all of the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
1. To determine source of tappet noise, crank over engine with cylinder head covers removed.
2. Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected spring
and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisytappets. If such is the case,
noise may be dampened by applying side thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it
can be assumed the noise is in the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for
wear.
3. Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a heavy click. A light noiseis usually caused by excessive leak-
down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tappet should
be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles wedged between
the plunger and the tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in the down position. This heavy click will be
accompanied by excessive clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case,
tappet assembly should be removed for inspection and cleaning.
4. The valve train generates a noise very much like a light tappet noise during normal operation. Care must be
taken to ensure that tappets are making the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be noisy, it’s probably not
the tappets.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the air cleaner (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR INTAKE SYSTEM - REMOVAL).
3. Remove intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD-REMOVAL).
4. Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDERHEAD COVER(S) -
REMOVAL).
5. Remove rocker arm assembly and push rods (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL). Identify push rods to ensure installation in original location.
6. Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).

b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal, camshaft
bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

INSTALLATION
1. If tensioner (1) assembly is being replaced, install tensioner and mounting bolts. Torque bolts to 28 Nꞏm (250 in.
lbs.).
2. Retract tensioner (2) if required.
CAUTION: The timing chainmust be installed with
the single plated link aligned with the dot and or
paint marking on the camshaft sprocket. The
crankshaft sprocket is aligned with the dot and or
paint marking on the sprocket between two plated
timing chain links.
CAUTION: The camshaft pin and the slot in the
cam sprocket must be clocked at 12:00. The
crankshaft keyway must be clocked at 2:00. The
crankshaft sprocket must be installed so that the
dots and or paint marking is at 6:00.
3. Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft
sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact
imaginary center line through both camshaft and
crankshaft bores.
4. Place timing chain around both sprockets.
5. Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight
against the chain in position as shown).
6. Slide both sprockets (2,3) evenly over their respec-
tive shafts and check alignment of timing marks.
7. Install the camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 122 Nꞏm (90 ft. lbs.) torque.

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery cables.
2. Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
3. Remove the oil pan and suction tube (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OILPA N - R E M O VA L ) .
4. Remove bolts and the block stiffener.
5. Using Miller Tool 7471-B crankshaft barring tool, rotate the crankshaft so all of the pistons are below TDC.
6. Before removing the piston(s) from the bore(s):
a. Remove any carbon ridge formations or deposits at the top of the bore witha dull scraper or soft wire brush.
b. If cylinder bore wear ridges are found, use a ridge reamer to cut the ridgefrom the bore. DO NOT remove
more metal than necessaryto remove the ridge.
7. Remove the J-jet cooling nozzles.
NOTE: If cylinders have ridges, the cylinders are oversize and will more than likely need boring.
8. Using a hammer and steel stamp, stamp the cylinder number in the top of eachpiston.Thefrontofthepiston
is identified by a stamping on the top of the piston. DO NOT stamp in the outside 5 mm (.197 in.) of the piston
diameter. DO NOT stamp over the piston pin.
9. Mark the connecting rod and cap with the corresponding cylinder numbers.
10. Remove the connecting rod bolts and rod caps. Use care so the cylinder bores and connecting rods are not
damaged.
11. Use a hammer handle or similar object to push the piston and connecting rod through the cylinder bore.
12. Store the piston/rod assemblies in a rack.
CLEANING—PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
CAUTION: DO NOT use bead blast to clean the pistons. DO NOT clean the pistonsandrodsinanacidtank.
PISTON
Clean the pistons and pins in a suitable solvent, rinse in hot water and blowdry with compressed air. Soaking the
pistons over night will loosen most of the carbon build up. De-carbon the ringgrooveswithabrokenpistonringand
again clean the pistons in solvent. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air.
CONNECTING ROD
Clean the connecting rods in a suitable solvent, rinse in hot water and blowdry with compressed air.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION - PISTONS
PISTON SKIRT DIAMETER (MIN.)
101.775 mm (4.006 in. )
Inspect the pistons for damage and excessive wear. Check top of the piston,ring grooves, skirt and pin bore. Mea-
sure the piston skirt diameter. If the piston is out of limits, replace the piston.

CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent.
Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.
HYDRAULIC TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
PRELIMINARY STEP TO CHECKING THE HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise, checkengine oil level and oil pressure.
1. Check the engine oil level.
Oil Level Check: stop engine after reaching normal operating temperature
The oil level should never be above the FULL mark on dipstick, or below the ADD mark. Either of
these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize oil level,
check dipstick.
2. Remove oil pressure sensor.
3. Install a reliable oil pressure gauge at oil pressure sensor location.
The oil pressure should be 206.8 - 551.6 kPa (30 - 80 psi) at 2000 rpm.
OIL LEVEL TOO HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark on dipstick, it is possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil while engine
is running and create foam. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
become soft and allow valves to seat noisily.
OIL LEVEL TOO LOW
Low oil level may allow pump to take in air which when fed to the tappets, causes them to become soft and allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of pump through which air canbedrawnwillcreatethesametappet
action. Check the lubrication system from the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the relief valve retainer
cap. When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will
be noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected, engine should be operated at fast idle to allow all of the air
inside of the tappets to be bled out.
VALVE TRAIN NOISE DIAGNOSIS
To determine source of valve train noise, operate engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed and listen for
source of the noise.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisytappets. If such is the case,
noise may be dampened by applying side thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it
can be assumed the noise is in the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for
wear.
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a heavy click. A light noise isusually caused by excessive leak-down
around the unit plunger which will necessitate replacing the tappet, or bythe plunger partially sticking in the tappet
body cylinder. A heavy click is caused either by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles becoming
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body causing the plunger to stickin the down position. This heavy click
will be accompanied by excessive clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case,
tappet assembly should be removed and replaced.
ENGINE OIL LEAK INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at thearea of the suspected leak. If an oil leak
source is not readily identifiable, thefollowingstepsshouldbefollowed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents maycause rubber to swell, temporarily
stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15
minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color
under a black light.

3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair as necessary.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.
5.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method
as follows:
1. Disconnect the PCV hoses at the cylinder head covers and plug or cap the outlet on the covers.
2. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
3. Gradually apply air pressure from 6.89 kPa (1 psi) to 17.23 kPa (2.5 psi) maximum while applying soapy water
at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
4. If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply. Remove the air hose, allplugs, and caps. Connect the PCV
hoses. Proceed to next step.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube to oil pan location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using Mopar
Stud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube applications only), and for O-ring style tubes, remove
tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove clutch housing inspection cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check
for the oil leak. If a leak is present in this area, remove transmission for further inspection.
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup plug or rear
crankshaft seal retainer gasket leak. See proper repair procedures for these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, replace component(s) as
necessary.