2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 lock

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the following components:
Oil pan and gasket/windage tray (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -REMOVAL).
Cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL) and
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Cylinder head(s) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL) and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD - REMOVAL).
3. If necessary, remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons from cyl-
inder block.Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered during this operation.Pistons and connecting rods
must be removed from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from the
engine, rotate crankshaft so the each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch to mark connecting rods or caps,as damage to con-
necting rods could occur
NOTE: Connecting rods and bearing caps are not interchangeable and shouldbe marked before removing
to ensure correct reassembly.
4. Mark connecting rod and bearing cap positions using a permanent ink marker or scribe tool.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the fractured rod and cap joint face surfaces, as engine dam-
age may occur.
5. Remove connecting rod cap. Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod Guides into the connecting rod being
removed. Remove piston from cylinder bore. Repeat this procedure for eachpiston being removed.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to nick crankshaft journals, as engine damage may occur
6. Immediately after piston and connecting rod removal, install bearing cap on the mating connecting rod to prevent
damage to the fractured cap and rod surfaces.
CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use a wire wheel or other abrasive cleaning devise to clean the pistons or connecting
rods. The pistons have a Moly coating, this coating must not be damaged.
1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.
INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bending.
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into thecylinder bore (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECTING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Checkthe ring lands for cracks and/or deteri-
oration.

MOUNT-FRONT
REMOVAL
2WD
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so maycause damage to the fan
blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
2. Remove the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the engine oil filter.
5. Remove the oil drain trough.
6. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the fullwidth of the engine oil pan.
7. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
8. Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
9. Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
10. Lower the front axle.
11. Remove the through bolts
12. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right enginemounts.
13. Remove the (8) mount to engine attaching bolts
14. Remove the engine mounts.
4WD
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so maycause damage to the fan
blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.

2. Remove the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Removetheskidplate.
5. Remove the front crossmember.
6. Remove the engine oil filter.
7. Remove the oil drain trough.
8. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the fullwidth of the engine oil pan.
9. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
10. Remove the 4 bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
11. Remove the 3 bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
12. Lower the front axle.
13. Remove the 6 through bolts
14. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left (4) and right (8)engine mounts.
15. Remove the mounts.

16. Remove the engine mount brackets and (2).
INSTALLATION
2WD
NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts,apply MoparLock and Seal
Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the engine block with (8)bolts. Torque bolts to 54 Nꞏm (40 ft. lbs.).
2. Insert the (2) through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the
through bolts.
3. Lower the engine until the through bolts rest onto the slots in the frame brackets.
4. Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 Nꞏm (70 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the oil drain trough.
6. Install the engine oil filter.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Install the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

4WD
NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts,apply MoparLock and Seal
Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
1. Install the right and left side engine mounts (4,8)to the front axle. Torquenutsto94Nꞏm(70ft.lbs.).
2. Raise the front axle into the frame and install the left and right side through bolts . Torque nuts to 94 Nꞏm (70 ft.
lbs.).
3. Insert the two upper through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts
onto the through bolts.
4. Lower the engine until the left and right side engine brackets rest on thethrough bolts, and the lower engine
bracket through holes align with the engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes align with the front axle
slots.
5. Loose assemble the 3 bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
6. Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
7. Torque the nuts for the 4 through bolts to 101 Nꞏm (75 ft. lbs.).
8. Torque the 3 bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket to101Nꞏm(75ft.lbs.).
9. Install the oil drain trough.
10. Install the engine oil filter.
11. Install the front crossmember.
12. Install the skid plate.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Install the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUSCLUTCH - REMOVAL).
15. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

MOUNT-REAR
REMOVAL
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
3. Remove the nuts from the transmission mount (1).
4. Remove the two bolts that attach the transmission
mount to the engine bracket.
5. Raise the transmission enough to remove the
mount from the crossmember (2).
6. Remove the mount (1).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Threadlocking compound must be applied to the bolts before installation.
1. Install the two bolts that attach the transmission mount to the transmission bracket.
2. Torque the bolts to 61Nꞏm (45 ft.lbs.) torque.
3. Lower the transmission so the transmission mount rests on the crossmember, and the studs of the transmission
mount are aligned in the slots in the crossmember.
4. Install the nuts onto the transmission mount studs through the crossmember access slot.
5. Torque the nuts to 54Nꞏm (40 ft. lbs.).

LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The lubrication system is a full flow filtration pressure feed type.
OPERATION
Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Block: Table 1
FROM TO
Oil Pickup Tube Oil Pump
Oil Pump Oil Filter
Oil Filter Block Main Oil Gallery
Block Main Oil Gallery 1. Crankshaft Main Journal
2. Left Cylinder Head*
3. Right Cylinder Head*
4. Counterbalance Shaft Rear Journal
Crankshaft Main Journals Crankshaft Rod Journals
Crankshaft Number One Main Journal 1. Front Timing Chain Idler Shaft
2. Counterbalance Shaft - Front Journal
3. Both Secondary Chain Tensioners
Left Cylinder Head Refer to Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Cylinder
Heads: Table 2
Right Cylinder Head Refer to Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Cylinder
Heads: Table 2
* The cylinder head gaskets have an oil restricter to control oil flow to thecylinder heads
Engine Lubrication Flow Chart - Cylinder Heads: Table 2
FROM TO
Cylinder Head Oil Port (in bolt hole) Diagonal Cross Drilling to Main Oil Gallery
Main Oil Gallery (drilled through head from rear to front) 1. Base of Camshaft Towers
2. Lash Adjuster Towers
Base of Camshaft Towers Vertical Drilling Through Tower to Camshaft Bearings**
Lash Adjuster Towers Diagonal Drillings to Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Pockets
** The number three camshaft bearing journal feeds oil into the hollow camshaft tubes. Oil is routed to the intake
lobes, which have oil passages drilled into them to lubricate the rocker arms.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at thearea of the suspected leak. If an oil leak
source is not readily identifiable, thefollowingstepsshouldbefollowed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents maycause rubber to swell, temporarily
stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15
minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color
under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
1. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
2. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valvegrommet.
3. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
4. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applyingsoapy water at the suspected source.
Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak
source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
5. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area Leak.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV
valve and breather cap hose.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter
runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.