2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 lock

2. Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locat-
ing dowels.
CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care
not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
3. Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block.
Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the
locating dowels.
NOTE: The four M8 cylinder head mounting bolts
(1) require sealant to be added to them before
installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
4. Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean
engine oil and install the eight M10 bolts.
5. Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts withMopar
Lock and Seal Adhesivethen install the bolts.
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using
an angle torque procedure, however, the bolts are
not a torque-to-yield design.
6. Tighten the bolts in sequence using the following steps and torque values:
Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-8, 27 Nꞏm (20 ft. lbs.).
Step 2: Verify that bolts 1-8, all reached 27 Nꞏm (20 ft. lbs.), by repeatingstep 1 without loosening the bolts.
Tightenbolts9thru12to14Nꞏm(10ft.lbs.).
Step 3: Tighten bolts 1-8, 90 °.
Step 4: Tighten bolts 1-8, 90 °, again. Tighten bolts 9-12, 26 Nꞏm (19 ft. lbs.)

12. Remove Special Tool 8429 (1).
13. Install the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
14. Install the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION). Tighten damper bolt 175 Nꞏm
(130 Ft. Lbs.).
15. Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
16. Install the fan shroud (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
17. Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
18. Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - INSTALLA-
TION).
19. Install oil fill housing onto cylinder head.
20. Refill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
21. Raise the vehicle.
22. Install the exhaust pipe onto the right exhaust manifold.
23. Lower the vehicle.
24. Reconnect battery negative cable.
25. Start the engine and check for leaks.

CAMSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The camshafts consist of powdered metal steel lobes which are sinter-bonded to a steel tube. Four bearing journals
are machined into the camshaft. Camshaft end play is controlled by two thrust walls that border the nose piece
journal.
REMOVAL
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT forcefully
rotate the camshafts or crankshaft independently of each other. Severe valve and/or piston damage can
occur.
CAUTION: When removing the cam sprocket, timing chains or camshaft, Failure to use special tool 8379 will
result in hydraulic tensioner ratchet over extension, Requiring timing chain cover removal to re-set the ten-
sioner ratchet.
1. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -
REMOVAL).
2. Set engine to TDC cylinder No. 1, camshaft sprocket V6 marks at the 12 o’clock position (1).
3. Mark one link on the secondary timing chain on both sides of the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket to aid in
installation.

INSTALLATION
1. Lubricate camshaft journals with clean engine oil.
NOTE: Position the right side camshaft so that the
camshaft sprocket dowel is near the 10 o’clock
position, This will place the camshaft at the neu-
tral position easing the installation of the camshaft
bearing caps.
2. Position the camshaft into the cylinder head.
3. Install the camshaft bearing caps, hand tighten the
retaining bolts.
NOTE: Caps should be installed so that the
stamped numbers on the caps are in numerical
order, ( 1 thru 4 ) from the front to the rear of the
engine. All caps should be installed so that the
stamped arrows on the caps point toward the front
of the engine.
4. Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the bearing
cap retaining bolts starting with the middle cap
working outward.
5. Torque the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts to
11 N ꞏm ( 1 0 0 i n . l b s . ) .
6. Position the camshaft drive gear into the timing chain aligning the V6 mark between the two marked chain links
(Two links marked during removal) .

SPRINGS - VALVE
DESCRIPTION
The valve springs are made from high strength chrome silicon steel. There are different springs for intake and
exhaust applications. The exhaust spring has an external damper. The valve spring seat is integral with the valve
stem seal, which is a positive type seal to control lubrication.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) -
REMOVAL).
2. Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compressor, remove the rocker armsand the hydraulic lash adjusters.
3. Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the valve spring and seal are to be removed from.
4. Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place when the spring is removed.
NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed in the same manner; this procedure only covers one
valve seal and valve spring.
5. Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compressor, compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks enough to
be removed.
6. Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.
7. Remove the valve spring compressor.
NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between intake and exhaust.
8. Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
9. Remove the valve stem seal.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: All six valve springs and seals are removed in the same manner; this procedure only covers one
valve seal and valve spring.
1. Apply shop air to the cylinder to holdthevalvesinplacewhilethespringis installed.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.
2. Install the valve stem seal.
NOTE: The valve springs are NOT common between intake and exhaust.
3. Install the spring retainer, and the spring.
4. Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compressor, compress the valve spring.
5. Install the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.
6. Remove the valve spring compressor.
7. Disconnect the shop air to the cylinder.
8. Install the spark plug for the cylinder the valve spring and seal was installed on.

BLOCK-ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron.The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide
high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate isbolted to the block. The block design
allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat
is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2).
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
The front and rear oil galley holes.
The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealantwith Teflon 592 to the threads of the
front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 Nꞏm (177in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch
NPT plugs to 27 Nꞏm (240 in. lbs.) torque.

INSPECTION
1. It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to mea-
sure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore
gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.)
INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not
available, do not use an inside micrometer.
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at
three levels below top of bore. Start perpendicular
(across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crank-
shaft and then take two additional reading.
3. Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise to
the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the
bore.
4. Determine taper by subtracting the smaller diame-
ter from the larger diameter.
5. Rotate measuring device 90° and repeat steps
above.
6. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the dif-
ference between each measurement.
7. If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.015 mm
(0.0006 inch), the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper orout- of-round condition exceeds these
maximum limits, the cylinder block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore
after the engine has been in use for a period of time.

CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft (1) is constructed of nodular cast iron.
The crankshaft is a three throw split pin design with
six counterweights for balancing purposes. The crank-
shaft is supported by four select fit main bearings with
the No. 2 serving as the thrust washer location. The
main journals of the crankshaft are cross drilled to
improve rod bearing lubrication. The No. 6 counter-
weight has provisions for crankshaft position sensor
target wheel (2) mounting. The select fit main bearing
markings are located on the rear side of the target
wheel. The crankshaft oil seals are one piece design.
The front oil seal is retained in the timing chain cover,
and the rear seal is pressed in to a bore formed by
the cylinder block and the bedplate assembly.