1985 FORD GRANADA check engine

The exhaust system fitted in production is
made of aluminised steel, with stainless steel
used in the endplates and baffles of the rear
silencer. Individual sections of the system are
easily renewed in service.
Emission control for the UK market is
achieved largely by the inherent efficiency of
the fuel, ignition and engine management
systems. A welcome spin-off from such
efficiency is remarkably good fuel economy for
a vehicle of such size and weight.
Precautions
Fuel
Many of the procedures in this Chapter
require the removal of fuel lines and
connections which may result in some fuel
spillage. Residual pressure in fuel-injection
systems will remain in the fuel lines long after
the vehicle was last used, therefore extra care
must be taken when disconnecting a fuel line
hose. Loosen any fuel hose slowly to avoid a
sudden release of pressure which may cause
fuel spray. As an added precaution place a rag
over each union as it is disconnected to catch
any fuel which is forcibly expelled. Before
carrying out any operation on the fuel system
refer to the precautions given in “Safety first!”
at the beginning of this Manual and follow
them implicitly. Petrol is a highly dangerous
and volatile liquid and the precautions
necessary when handling it cannot be
overstressed
Tamperproof adjustment screws
Certain adjustment points in the fuel system
(and elsewhere) are protected by tamperproof
caps, plugs or seals. The purpose of such
tamperproofing is to discourage, and to deter,
adjustment by unqualified operators.
In some EU countries (though not yet in the
UK) it is an offence to drive a vehicle with
missing or broken tamperproof seals. Before
disturbing a tamperproof seal, satisfy yourself
that you will not be breaking local or national
anti-pollution regulations by doing so. Fit a
new seal when adjustment is complete when
this is required by law.
Do not break tamperproof seals on a vehicle
which is still under warranty.
Catalytic converter
The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device which needs no maintenance in
itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for the full service life.
a)DO NOT use leaded petrol in a car
equipped with a catalytic converter the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.
b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well-maintained in accordance with the
manufacturer’s schedule - particularly,
ensure that the air cleaner filter element,
the fuel filter and the spark plugs are
renewed at the correct interval - if the inletair/fuel mixture is allowed to become too
rich due to neglect, the unburned surplus
will enter and burn in the catalytic
converter, overheating the element and
eventually destroying the converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the car at all (or at least as little as
possible) until the fault is cured - the
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in
overheating, as noted above.
d)DO NOT push- or tow-start the car - this
will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel, causing it to overheat when
the engine does start - see b) above.
e)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds - if the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburnedfuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of igniting on the element and damaging
the converter.
f)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives -
these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
g)DO NOT continue to use the car if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke - the unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce the efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
h)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures -
hence the heat shields on the car’s
underbody and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
which brush against it - DO NOT,
therefore, park the car in dry undergrowth,
over long grass or piles of dead leaves.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGILE, do not strike it with tools during
servicing work, take great care when
working on the exhaust system, ensure
that the converter is well clear of any jacks
or other lifting gear used to raise the car
and do not drive the car over rough
ground, road humps, etc, in such a way as
to “ground” the exhaust system.
j)In some cases, particularly when the car is
new and/or is used for stop/start driving, a
sulphurous smell (like that of rotten eggs)may be noticed from the exhaust. This is
common to many catalytic converter-
equipped cars and seems to be due to the
small amount of sulphur found in some
petrols reacting with hydrogen in the
exhaust to produce hydrogen sulphide
(H
2S) gas; while this gas is toxic, it is not
produced in sufficient amounts to be a
problem. Once the car has covered a few
thousand miles the problem should
disappear - in the meanwhile a change of
driving style or of the brand of petrol used
may effect a solution.
k)The catalytic converter, used on a well-
maintained and well-driven car, should
last for between 50 000 and 100 000 miles
- from this point on, careful checks should
be made at all specified service intervals
of the CO level to ensure that the
converter is still operating efficiently - if
the converter is no longer effective it must
be renewed.
See Chapter 1, Section 38.
1On carburettor models only, the air cleaner
can take in both hot and cold air. Hot air is
obtained from a shroud bolted to the exhaust
manifold.
2A flap valve in the air cleaner spout
determines the mix of hot and cold air. The
valve is operated by a vacuum diaphragm.
Vacuum is obtained from the inlet manifold
and is applied via a heat-sensing valve, which
cuts off the vacuum as the temperature of the
incoming air rises. Thus the air cleaner takes in
only hot air on starting from cold, changing
progressively to cold air as the engine warms
up (see illustrations).
3If the system fails, either the engine will take
a long time to warm up (flap stuck in “cold”
position), or it may run roughly and not
develop full power when warm (flap stuck in
“hot” position). Check it as follows.
3Air cleaner temperature control
- description and testing
2Air cleaner and element -
removal and refitting
4•4Fuel and exhaust systems
3.2b Air cleaner heat sensor3.2a Air cleaner vacuum diaphragm unit
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4With the engine cold, disconnect the cold
air inlet trunking from the spout. Look into the
spout and check that the flap valve is covering
the hot air inlet.
5Start the engine and allow it to idle. Check
that the flap moves to cover the cold air inlet. If
the flap does not move, check the diaphragm
and heat sensor as follows.
6Stop the engine. Disconnect the diaphragm
vacuum pipe from the heat sensor. Apply
vacuum to the diaphragm, using a vacuum
head pump or by connecting the pipe directly
to manifold vacuum. If the flap now moves, the
heat sensor or vacuum line was faulty. If the
flap still does not move, the diaphragm is
faulty or the flap is jammed.
7On completion reconnect the vacuum pipe
and the cold air trunking.
Mechanical
1Carburettor models without air conditioning
are fitted with a mechanical fuel pump, located
on the left-hand side of the engine block.
2To test the pump, disconnect the ignition
coil LT lead. Disconnect the outlet hose from
the pump and place a wad of rag next to the
pump outlet. Take appropriate fire
precautions.
3Have an assistant crank the engine on the
starter. Well-defined spurts of fuel must beejected from the pump outlet - if not, the pump
is probably faulty (or the tank is empty).
Dispose of the fuel-soaked rag safely.
4To remove the fuel pump, first disconnect
the battery negative lead.
5Disconnect and plug the pump inlet and
outlet hoses. Be prepared for fuel spillage.
6Unscrew the two bolts and withdraw the
pump from the cylinder block. Remove the
gasket. If necessary extract the pushrod (see
illustrations).
7Clean the exterior of the pump in paraffin
and wipe dry. Clean all traces of gasket from
the cylinder block and pump flange.
8If the fuel pump has a removable cover,
remove the screw and withdraw the cover and
nylon mesh filter with seal (see illustrations).
Clean the filter, cover and pump in fuel. Locate
the filter in the cover and fit the cover to the
pump so that the pipe and indentation are
aligned. Tighten the screw.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a
new gasket and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque. If necessary discard the
crimped type hose clips and fit screw type
clips.
Electrical
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
10All fuel-injection models, and carburettor
models when fitted with air conditioning, have
an electric fuel pump. The two types of pump
are not the same, although both are mounted
under the vehicle next to the fuel tank.11If the fuel pump appears to have failed
completely, check the appropriate fuse and
relay. On fuel-injection models, also check the
inertia switch (when fitted).
12To test the carburettor type pump,
disconnect the fuel supply hose from the
pressure regulator or vapour separator in the
engine compartment. Lead the hose into a
measuring cylinder.
13Take appropriate fire precautions. Switch
on the ignition for 30 seconds and measure
the quantity of fuel delivered: it should be at
least 400 cc (0.7 pint).
14To test the fuel-injection type pump,
special equipment is required. Consult a Ford
dealer or other fuel-injection specialist. The
problem may be due to a clogged filter.
15To remove a pump, first disconnect the
battery negative lead. Take appropriate fire
precautions.
16Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
Clean the fuel pump and its surroundings.
17Clamp the tank-to-pump hose, or make
arrangements to collect the contents of the
fuel tank which will otherwise be released.
18Place a drain pan beneath the pump.
Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses; be
prepared for fuel spillage. Caution: Fuel under
pressure may spray out of the outlet hose
union as it is slackened.
19Disconnect the wiring plug from the pump.
20Slacken the pump bracket clamp bolt and
slide the pump out of the bracket.
21Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that all hoses and unions are in
good condition.
22On2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 engines up to mid-
1990, switch the ignition on and off five times,
without cranking the engine, to pressurise the
fuel system then check the pump unions for
signs of leakage.
23Run the engine and check for leaks.
DOHC engine
24On these models the fuel pump is
mounted in the fuel tank, on the same
mounting as the fuel level sender unit(see
illustration).To test the pump specialist
equipment is required, therefore this task must
be entrusted to a Ford dealer.
4Fuel pump - testing, removal
and refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5
4
4.6a Removing the mechanical fuel pump4.6b Fuel pump pushrod
4.8a Removing the fuel pump cover - note
alignment indentations4.8b Fuel pump cover and filter screenA Fuel pumpB Fuel level sender unit
4.24 Combined fuel pump/fuel level sender
unit
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25To remove the pump, first remove the fuel
tank.
26Unscrew the fuel pump/fuel level sender
unit by engaging two crossed screwdrivers in
the slots on either side of the unit mounting
flange. Recover the seal.
27Refitting is a reversal of removal. It is
necessary to fit a new seal.
1Run the fuel level as low as possible before
removing the tank.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the fuel filler cap. Siphon or pump
the remaining fuel out of the tank. Store the
fuel in a suitable sealed container.
4Remove the two screws on either side of the
filler neck.
5Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
6Remove the shield from the right-hand rear
inner wheel arch. Also remove the rear bumper
undershield. which is secured by six screws.
7Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines
from the tank (see illustration). Drain the fuel
in the lines into a suitable container and
remove it.
8Support the fuel tank. Remove the two bolts
which secure the rear ends of the fuel tank
supporting straps.
9Lower the tank and supporting straps,unhooking the front ends of the straps from
their locations. Disconnect the wiring and the
vent hose from the tank. Remove the tank with
filler pipe attached.
10Fuel tank repairs including soldering or
welding must be left to specialists. Even when
empty, the tank may contain explosive vapour.
Proprietary compounds are available for
making temporary “cold” repairs.
11Refit the fuel tank in the reverse order to
removal. Check for leaks on completion.
1Remove the fuel tank.
2Unscrew the sender unit from the tank.
There is a Ford tool (No 23-014) which
engages with the lugs on the unit, but with
patience a pair of crossed screwdrivers or
similar items can be used instead.
3Remove the sender unit, taking care not to
damage the float or bend the float arm(see
illustration).Recover the seal.
4A defective sender unit must be renewed;
spares are not available. Renew the seal in any
case.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Fitted to DOHC and 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6
engined models, this device is designed to cutoff pressurised fuel to the fuel-injection system
in the event of an accident. It does this by
interrupting the electrical supply to the fuel
pump.
2To remove the switch, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3Open up the tailgate and locate the switch
which is mounted near the tailgate lock striker.
On Estate models the switch is located behind
a trim panel in the rear right-hand corner of the
luggage compartment (see illustration).
4Remove the trim panel and disconnect the
switch wiring connector (see illustrations).
5Extract the two retaining screws and
remove the switch.
6Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure. On completion, depress the switch
button to ensure that the switch has been
reset.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Unclip the under-dash insulation on the
driver’s side.
3Disconnect the cable from the pedal. The
cable may be secured by a clip, or it may slot
into a “keyhole” fitting (see illustration).
4Remove the two nuts which secure the
throttle pedal bracket to the bulkhead.
Remove the pedal and bracket.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
8Throttle pedal - removal and
refitting
7Fuel cut-off inertia switch -
removal and refitting
6Fuel gauge sender unit -
removal and refitting
5Fuel tank - removal and refitting
4•6Fuel and exhaust systems
5.7 Fuel tank supply (left) and return hoses
7.4a On early models it will be necessary to
remove the luggage compartment rear trim
panel to gain access to the fuel cut-off
inertia switch . . .
7.4b . . . on later models an access cover in
the trim panel is provided8.3 Throttle pedal showing “keyhole” cable
fitting (arrowed)
6.3 Removing the fuel gauge sender unit7.3 Fuel cut-off inertia switch location -
Estate models
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1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the cable from the pedal.
3Working under the bonnet, free the cable
outer from the bulkhead and pull the cable into
the engine bay.
4On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner.5On V6 models, remove the throttle linkage
cover, which is secured by three screws (see
illustrations).
6Disconnect the cable inner from the throttle
lever on the carburettor or fuel-injection linkage.
The cable may be secured by a spring clip, or by
a simple barrel and slot arrangement (see
illustration).
7Disconnect the cable outer from its bracket.
It may be secured by a spring clip, or by four
plastic lugs. The lugs are most easily released
with a tool (see illustration).
8Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Adjust the threaded sleeve on the cable outer
so that there is a small amount of slack with
the pedal released; have an assistant operate
the throttle pedal and check that the throttle
lever moves over its full range of travel.
9On automatic transmission models, check
the adjustment of the kickdown cable.
1All carburettor models are fitted with a
vapour separator, mounted on the left-hand
inner wing. On 1.8 litre models the separator
incorporates a pressure regulator (see
illustrations).2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Identify the three hoses connected to the
separator. Disconnect the hoses, cutting off
the hose clips if they are of the crimped type.
4Remove the two securing screws and lift out
the separator. Remember it is full of fuel.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the different hoses are
connected to the correct stubs on the
regulator. Use new hose clips when
necessary.
See Chapter 1, Sections 15 and 16.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner.
3Disconnect the automatic choke electrical
lead from the manifold thermo-switch.
4Unclip the throttle arm from the throttle lever
(see illustration).
5Disconnect the fuel hose from the
carburettor and plug it. If a crimped hose clip
is fitted, cut it off and use a worm drive clip
when refitting (see illustration).
6Depressurise the cooling system by
removing the expansion tank filler cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system is
hot.
12Pierburg 2V carburettor -
removal and refitting
11Pierburg 2V carburettor - idle
speed and mixture adjustments
10Vapour separator - removal
and refitting9Throttle cable - removal and
refitting
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•7
4
9.5a Three screws (arrowed) secure the
throttle linkage cover9.5b Throttle linkage with cover removed9.6 Removing a throttle cable inner - barrel
and slot type
12.4 Throttle arm-to-lever clip (arrowed)
9.7 Tool for releasing accelerator cable
lugs
A 25 mm (1 in)
B Centrepunch indentsC 16 mm (0.63 in)
10.1a Fuel vapour separator without
pressure regulator
A Fuel return
B Fuel supplyC Carburettor supply
10.1b Fuel vapour separator and pressure
regulator
A Fuel supply
B Carburettor supplyC Fuel return
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7Disconnect and plug the automatic choke
coolant hoses (see illustration). Be prepared
for coolant spillage.
8Remove the three Torx screws which secure
the carburettor to the manifold (see
illustration).
9Check that no attachments have been
overlooked, then lift the carburettor off the
manifold. Recover the gasket.
10Clean the carburettor and manifold matingsurfaces, being careful not to get dirt into the
manifold.
11Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Top-up the cooling system if necessary on
completion, then check the idle speed and
mixture.
12On engines from September 1986, a
modified carburettor was fitted which
incorporates a secondary choke pull-down
diaphragm that assists in reducing fuel
consumption (see illustration).If such a
replacement carburettor is to be fitted to
earlier models, always use a new mountinggasket and also carry out the following
operations.
a)Obtain the special wiring loom and connect
the wiring connector(see illustration).
b)Disconnect the positive feed wire from the
ignition coil and then connect the leads of
the new loom to the positive terminal of the
coil and the end of the disconnected
positive feed wire.
c)Connect the loom earth eyelet to one of the
ignition coil retaining screws.
d)After fitting the air cleaner, check the
carburettor settings (Section 11).
4•8Fuel and exhaust systems
12.5 Crimped hose clip (arrowed) must be
renewed
12.12 Pierburg 2V carburettor fitted to later
1.8 litre engines
A Fuel inlet hose
B Swivel clip location
C Diaphragm hose
D Diaphragm (secondary choke pulldown)
12.13 Wiring connections to Pierburg 2V
carburettor fitted to later 1.8 litre engines
A Loom
B Secondary choke pulldown diaphragm
C Earth
D Original coil connector
12.7 Disconnecting a coolant hose from the
automatic choke12.8 Undoing a carburettor securing screw.
Other two screws are arrowed
13.4 Exploded view of Pierburg 2V carburettor
A Bi-metal housing
B O-ring
C Water jacket
D Pull-down diaphragm
unit
E Secondary throttle
diaphragm unit
F Idle speed adjustment
screw
G Accelerator pump
diaphragm
H Power valve
J Throttle damper (not
all models)
K Carburettor body
L Fuel inlet pipe and
filter
M Primary main jet
N Secondary
main jet
O Top cover
P Idle jet
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1Check the cost and availability of spare parts
before deciding to dismantle the carburettor. If
the unit has seen much service, fitting a new or
reconditioned carburettor may prove more
satisfactory than any attempt at overhaul.
2Obtain a carburettor repair kit, which will
contain the necessary gaskets, diaphragms
and other renewable items.
3With the carburettor removed from the
vehicle, clean it thoroughly externally and
place it on a clean worksurface.
4 Referringto the exploded view of the
carburettor(see illustration),remove each
component part whilst making a note of its
fitted position. Make alignment marks on
linkages etc.
5Reassemble in the reverse order to
dismantling, using new gaskets, O-rings etc.
6To check the choke pull-down after
reassembly, position the fast idle screw on the
highest step of the cam. Press the pull-down
adjusting screw towards the pull-down
diaphragm and measure the choke valve
opening with a twist drill or gauge rod of the
specified diameter. Adjust if necessary using
a 2 mm Allen key (see illustration).
7After refitting the throttle damper, adjust its
position in the bracket so that with a 2 mm
(0.08 in) feeler blade inserted between the idle
speed adjusting screw and the throttle lever,
the damper plunger is just touching the
actuating lever(see illustration).
8Adjust the idle speed and mixture, and if
necessary the fast idle speed, after refitting the
carburettor.
9Recheck the throttle damper adjustment,
when applicable.
1This is not a routine operation. It should only
be necessary after overhaul, or when a new
carburettor is fitted.
2The idle speed and mixture must be
correctly set and the engine must be at
operating temperature.3Remove the air cleaner and plug the
manifold vacuum connection.
4With the engine running, position the fast
idle screw on the second highest step of the
fast idle cam(see illustration).Measure the
engine speed and compare it with that given in
the Specifications.
5If adjustment is necessary, remove the
tamperproof plug from the fast idle screw by
crushing it with pliers. Stop the engine and
open the throttle to gain access to the screw
with a small screwdriver. Turn the screw a
small amount clockwise to increase the speed,
anti-clockwise to reduce it, then reseat the
screw on the second highest step of the cam
and recheck the engine speed. Repeat as
necessary.
6Fit a new tamperproof cap where this is
required by law, then refit the air cleaner.
Idle speed cannot be adjusted in the usual
way on this carburettor, as it is controlled by
the ESC ll module.
If mixture adjustment is required, proceed
as described in Chapter 1, Section 16.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner.3Disconnect the choke and stepper motor
wiring. The stepper motor multi-plug locking
device must be depressed to release the plug
(seeillustration).
4Unclip the throttle arm from the throttle lever
and remove the throttle cable bracket.
5Disconnect the fuel hose from the
carburettor and plug it. If a crimped type hose
clip is fitted, cut it off and use a worm drive
clip when refitting.
6Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the
carburettor, noting their connecting points if
there is any possibility of confusion.
7Remove the four carburettor-to-manifold
nuts. Check that nothing has been overlooked,
then lift off the carburettor. Recover the
gasket.
8Clean the carburettor and manifold mating
faces, being careful not to sweep dirt into the
manifold.
9Refit by reversing the removal operations. If
the stepper motor has been disturbed, refer to
Chapter 5, Section 19 for the initial
adjustment.
1Check the cost and availability of spare
parts before deciding to dismantle the
carburettor. If the unit has seen much service,
fitting a new or reconditioned carburettor may
prove more satisfactory than any attempt at
overhaul.
2Obtain a carburettor repair kit, which will
contain the necessary gaskets, diaphragms
and other renewable items.
3With the carburettor removed from the
vehicle, clean it thoroughly externally and
place it on a clean worksurface.
4 Referringto the exploded view of the
carburettor(see illustration),remove each
component part whilst making a note of its
fitted position. Make alignment marks on
linkages etc.
5Reassemble in the reverse order to
dismantling, using new gaskets, O-rings etc.
Be careful not to kink the diaphragms.
17Weber 2V carburettor -
dismantling and reassembly
16Weber 2V carburettor -
removal and refitting
15Weber 2V carburettor - idle
speed and mixture adjustments
14Pierburg 2V carburettor - fast
idle adjustment
13Pierburg 2V carburettor -
dismantling and reassembly
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•9
4
14.4 Fast idle adjustment - Pierburg 2V
Tip of fast idle screw is arrowed
13.6 Choke pull-down adjustment13.7 Throttle damper adjustment - Pierburg
2V carburettor
A Actuating lever
B Damper plungerC Damper locknut
D Feeler blade
16.3 Depress locking clip (arrowed) when
disconnecting stepper motor multi-plug
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6If necessary, dismantle the automatic choke
unit (see illustration).
7Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure noting the following points.
a)Ensure that the pull-down diaphragm is
correctly seated prior to refitting the cover.
b)Ensure that the O-ring is correctly seated
in the choke housing prior to refitting.
c)With the choke housing installed check
and, if necessary, adjust the vacuum pull-
down diaphragm.
d)Refit the heat shield ensuring that the hole
in the shield engages with choke housing
peg.
e)Engage the bi-metal spring with the choke
lever and refit the bi-metal housing. Align
the marks made, or noted, on removal and
securely tighten the housing retaining
screws.
f)On completion check and, if necessary,
adjust the fast idle speed.
Vacuum pull-down adjustment
8This procedure is as described in Section 18,
referring to the Specifications at the start of this
Chapter for the specified pull-down setting.
Fast idle speed adjustment
9Check the idle speed and mixture adjustment
as described earlier in this Chapter and leave
the tachometer connected. Note that the idle
speed must be correct before attempting to
check or adjust the fast idle speed.
10Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature and remove the air cleaner.
11Partially open the throttle valve then close
the choke valve until the fast idle adjustment
screw is positioned on the third (middle) step
of the fast idle cam(see illustration)and
release the throttle valve.
12Start the engine without touching the
throttle pedal and check that the engine speed
is within the speed range given in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter.
13If this is not the case, adjust the engine
speed by rotating the fast idle adjusting screw
until the speed is within the specified range.
Operate the throttle pedal and check that the
engine returns to the specified idle speed.
14Stop the engine then disconnect the
tachometer and refit the air cleaner.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner assembly.
3Disconnect the throttle kicker vacuum hose.
4Withdraw the plastic shield from the throttle
kicker(see illustration).
5Remove the two securing screws, then
disconnect the operating rod from the throttle
linkage, and withdraw the assembly from the
carburettor.
6The assembly can be dismantled by
removing the four securing screws and lifting
off the diaphragm cover. Recover the spring.
7Carefully withdraw the diaphragm and the
operating rod assembly from the housing.
Examine the condition of the diaphragm, and
renew it if necessary.
8Clean the mating faces of the housing and
the diaphragm cover.9Commence reassembly by inserting the
diaphragm and operating rod assembly into
the housing.
10Refit the spring, and the cover, ensuring
that the spring is correctly located, and tighten
the securing screws progressively to avoid
distorting the diaphragm.
11Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
but before refitting the plastic shield, check
the throttle kicker adjustment as described in
the following paragraphs.
Adjustment
12Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature, and check the idle speed and
mixture settings as described earlier in this
Chapter.
13Remove the air cleaner assembly.
14Withdraw the plastic shield from the
throttle kicker, if not already done.
15Disconnect the throttle kicker vacuum
hose, and connect the throttle kicker directly
to the inlet manifold using a length of tubing.
27Weber 2V TLD carburettor -
throttle kicker removal, refitting
and adjustment
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•13
4
26.11 Fast idle speed adjustment - Weber
2V TLD carburettor
A Fast idle cam
B Fast idle screw shown on middle step of cam26.6 Exploded view of the automatic choke mechanism - Weber 2V TLD carburettor
A Upper choke operating link
B Fast idle cam return spring
C Spindle sleeveD Connecting rod and lever assembly
E Pulldown link
F Actuating lever
27.4 Throttle kicker assembly - Weber 2V TLD carburettor
1 Fuel inlet
2 Choke plate
3 Accelerator pump cover
4 Throttle kicker pivot lever5 Plastic cover
6 Throttle kicker
7 Secondary throttle valve vacuum
diaphragm
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16Start the engine and note the engine
speed (rpm). The engine speed should
increase above the normal idle speed, and
should be as given in the Specifications.
17If the engine speed is not as specified,
remove the tamperproof plug from the top of
the throttle kicker housing, and turn the
adjustment screw to give the specified speed.
18On completion of adjustment, fit a new
tamperproof cap.
19Disconnect the tubing from the inlet
manifold, and reconnect the throttle kicker
vacuum hose.
20Refit the plastic shield and the air cleaner.
On 2.4 & 2.9 litre V6 models especially,
residual pressure will remain in the fuel lines
long after the vehicle was last used therefore
the fuel system must be depressurised before
any hose is disconnected; the system is
depressurised via the vent valve on the fuel
rail, noting that it may be necessary to depress
the valve several times before the pressure is
fully released. As an added precaution place a
rag over the valve as it is depressed to catch
any fuel which is forcibly expelled. Before
carrying out any operation on the fuel system
refer to the precautions given in Safety first! at
the beginning of this Manual and follow them
implicitly. Petrol is a highly dangerous and
volatile liquid and the precautions necessary
when handling it cannot be overstressed.
Access to the relays is obtained by
removing the facia top cover (crash pad).
The relays are located on the passenger
side(see illustration). Also see Chapter 13,
Section 16.
See Chapter 1, Section 41.
SOHC and 2.8 litre V6 engines
1Idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV
module and no direct adjustment is possible.
2Idle mixture adjustment should not be
necessary on a routine basis. After component
renewal or a similar circumstance it may be
checked and adjusted as follows.
3The engine must be at operating temperature.
The valve clearances must be correct, the air
cleaner element must be clean and the ignition
system must be in good condition.
4Connect an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) and a tachometer (rev. counter) to the
engine as instructed by their makers.
5Run the engine at 3000 rpm for 15 seconds,
then allow it to idle. Repeat the procedure
every 60 seconds until adjustment is
complete.
6With the engine idling after the 3000 rpm
burst, record the CO level when the reading
has stabilised. The desired value is given in the
Specifications.
7If adjustment is necessary, remove the
tamperproof plug from the mixture adjusting
screw on the underside of the vane airflow
meter (see illustration).
8On V6 models, note that adjustment should
first be carried out on the front airflow meter.The rear meter should only be adjusted if the
range of adjustment on the front meter is
insufficient.
9Turn the mixture adjusting screw with a
hexagon key until the CO level is correct (see
illustration).
10Stop the engine and disconnect the test
gear.
11Fit a new tamperproof plug if required.
DOHC engine
Note: Before carrying out any adjustments
ensure that the ignition timing and spark plug
gaps are as specified. To carry out the
adjustments, an accurate tachometer and an
exhaust gas analyser (CO meter) will be
required.
12Idle speed is controlled by the EEC IV
module, and manual adjustment is not possible,
although the “base” idle speed can be adjusted
by a Ford dealer using special equipment.
13On models with a catalytic converter, the
mixture is controlled by the EEC IV module,
and no manual adjustment is possible.
14On models without a catalytic converter,
the idle mixture can be adjusted as follows.
15Run the engine until it is at normal
operating temperature.
16Stop the engine and connect a tachometer
and an exhaust gas analyser in accordance
with the manufacturer’s instructions.
17Start the engine and run it at 3000 rpm
for 15 seconds, ensuring that all electrical
loads (headlamps, heater blower, etc) are
switched off, then allow the engine to idle, and
check the CO content. Note that the reading
will initially rise, then fall and finally stabilise.
18If adjustment is necessary, remove the
cover from the mixture adjustment
potentiometer (located on the right-hand side
of the engine compartment, behind the MAP
sensor), and turn the screw to give the
specified CO content (see illustration).
19If adjustment does not produce a change
in reading, the potentiometer may be at the
extreme of the adjustment range. To centralise
the potentiometer, turn the adjustment screw
20 turns clockwise followed by 10 turns anti-
clockwise, then repeat the adjustment
procedure.
31Fuel-injection system - idle
speed and mixture adjustment
30Fuel filter - renewal
29Fuel-injection system relays -
location
28Fuel-injection system -
depressurisation
4•14Fuel and exhaust systems
31.18 Remove the cover from the mixture
adjustment potentiometer31.9 Idle mixture adjustment - fuel-injection
models
29.2 Fuel injection system relays - 2.4 and
2.9 litre V6 engines
A Power relayB Fuel pump relay
31.7 Tamperproof plug (arrowed) covering
mixture adjusting screw
Airflow meter is inverted for photo
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