1985 FORD GRANADA battery capacity

12Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws
to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear of
the piston. Have the assistant depress the
brake pedal gentlyin order to move the
caliper piston out.
13With the pedal held depressed, slacken
the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and
again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed
screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal
can now be released.
14Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-hand brake pad and caliper.
15Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard
pad again. Carry out the operations described
in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand
caliper.
16Bleed the rear brakes as described in
Chapter 10.
17Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts.
18Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads
up to the discs, then make a final check of thehydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the
reservoir cap.
Camshaft drivebelt renewal is
recommended as a precautionary measure.
Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, Sections 13 and 45
for the full renewal procedure.
45Camshaft drivebelt renewal -
SOHC engines
1Before proceeding, note the precautions
given in Chapter 3, Section 1.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the expansion tank cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system is
hot.
4Place a drain pan of adequate capacity
beneath the radiator drain plug. Unscrew the
plug, without removing it, and allow the
coolant to drain (see illustration). On OHC
engines, release the hose clip and remove the
rubber cap from the bleed spigot on top of the
thermostat housing (see illustration). On V6
engines, remove the bleed screw (if fitted)
from the radiator top hose.
5Place another drain pan below the cylinder
block drain plug, which is located on the right-
hand side of the engine (except DOHC engine
which has no plug). Remove the drain plug
and allow the coolant to drain from the block.
6Dispose of the old coolant safely, or keep it
in a covered container if it is to be re-used.7Flushing should not be necessary unless
periodic renewal of the coolant has been
neglected, or unless plain water has been
used as coolant. In either case the coolant will
appear rusty and dark in colour. Flushing is
then required and should be carried out as
follows.
8Drain the system and disconnect the top
hose from the radiator. Insert a garden hose
into the radiator and run water into the radiator
until it flows clear from the drain plug.
9Run the hose into the expansion tank (OHC
engines) or into the radiator top hose (V6
engines) until clean water comes out of the
cylinder block drain plug. On DOHC engines
there is no drain plug in the cylinder block, so
the engine should be flushed until water runs
clear from the radiator bottom hose.
10If, after a reasonable period the water still
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent.
11Flush the heater matrix by disconnecting
one of the heater hoses and running the hose
into that.
12In severe cases of contamination the
radiator should be removed, inverted andflushed in the reverse direction to normal flow,
ie with the water going in at the bottom and
out at the top. Shake the radiator gently while
doing this to dislodge any deposits.
13Refit any hoses which were disturbed,
making sure that they and their clips are in
good condition. Refit the cylinder block drain
plug and tighten the radiator drain plug.
14On OHC engines, make sure that the
bleed spigot cap is still removed (not DOHC).
On V6 engines, check, if applicable, that the
bleed screw is still removed.
15Pour coolant in through the expansion
tank filler hole until the level is up to the MAX
line.
16Refit the bleed spigot cap or screw when
coolant starts to emerge from the spigot.
Tighten the clip.
17Squeeze the radiator hoses to help
disperse airlocks. Top-up the coolant further if
necessary, then refit and tighten the expansion
tank cap.
18Run the engine up to operating
temperature, checking for coolant leaks. Stop
the engine and allow it to cool, then top-up the
coolant again to the MAX mark if necessary.
46Engine coolant renewal
1•20Every 2 years
46.4b Releasing the bleed spigot cap -
OHC engine46.4a Radiator drain plug (arrowed) -
OHC engine
Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)
procarmanuals.com

Heated rear window switch
Models before April 1992
50Remove the instrument panel surround,
which is secured by four screws.
51Carefully prise the switch from its location,
disconnect the multi-plug and remove it.
Models from April 1992
52Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver,
carefully prise the switch out of the centre
facia vent panel and disconnect the wiring
connector.
53On refitting, reconnect the wiring
connector and push the switch in until it clicks
into position.
Foglight switch(es)
54These are removed in the same way as the
heated rear window switch (see illustration).
Hazard warning switch
55This is integral with the direction indicator
switch.
Front seat adjusting switch
56Remove the seat trim panel.
57Prise the operating levers off the switch
with a thin-bladed screwdriver (see
illustration).
58Remove the two securing screws,
withdraw the switch and unplug it.
Rear seat adjusting switch
59This is removed in the same way as the
mirror control switch already described in
paragraphs 10 and 11.
Heated seat control switches
60These are removed in the same way as the
mirror control switch already described in
paragraphs 10 and 11.
Starter inhibitor/reversing light
switch (automatic transmission)
61Refer to Chapter 7 part B.
Fuses
1The battery positive (live) lead is protected
by a fusible link. If this link melts, a major
short-circuit is indicated and expert advice
should be sought before repairing it.
2The main fuse/relay box is located under the
bonnet, near the bulkhead on the right-hand
side. It contains up to 24 fuses and nearly as
many relays (according to equipment). Fuse
applications are listed on the underside of the
fuse box lid (see illustration).
3There is an auxiliary fuse box inside the
vehicle, accessible after opening the glovebox
(see illustration). An in-line fuse for the radio
is located under the facia on the left-hand
side, near the heater.4The“blade” type fuses are colour-coded to
show their current rating. A blown fuse can be
recognised by the melted wire link in the
middle.
5To renew a blown fuse, first switch off the
circuit concerned. Pull the old fuse out of its
holder, using tweezers or long-nosed pliers.
Press in a new fuse of the same rating and try
the circuit again.
6If the new fuse blows immediately or within
a short time, do not carry on renewing fuses
but look for a short-circuit in the wiring to the
item(s) protected by the fuse. When more than
one item is protected by a single fuse,
switching on one item at a time until the fuse
blows will help to isolate the defect.
7Never fit a fuse of a higher rating (current
capacity) than specified, and do not bypass
fuses with silver foil or strands of wire. Serious
damage, including fire, could result.
8In some positions (such as for power
window and seat adjustment motors) circuit
breakers are fitted instead of fuses. These are
normally self-resetting once the cause of the
overload has been cleared.
Relays
9If a circuit or system served by a relay
develops a fault, always remember that the
problem could be in the relay. Testing is by
substitution of a known good unit. Beware of
substituting relays which look the same but
perform different functions(see illustration).10To renew a relay, simply unplug it from its
holder and plug in the new one. Access to the
relays in the main fuse box is as described for
the fuses. Access to the relays located behind
the facia is achieved by removing the facia
top.
11The sliding roof relay is located in the
overhead console.
Control units and modules
12The two major modules are the EEC IV
module (on fuel-injection models) and the ABS
control module. These are located below the
glovebox on the passenger side, and are
accessible after removing the under-dash trim.
13As with relays, testing by the home
mechanic is limited to substitution of known
good units. This is likely to be prohibitively
expensive on a trial and error basis so in case
of problems a Ford dealer or other competent
specialist should be consulted at an early
stage.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead and
unlock all the doors before starting work on
the central locking system. Make sure that the
keys are outside the vehicle before
reconnecting the battery on completion.
2Remove the door interior trim panel.
17Central locking motor -
removal and refitting
16Fuses, relays and control
units - removal and refitting
Body electrical system 13•13
13
15.54 Removing a foglight switch15.57 Removing the front seat adjusting
switch
16.2 Main fuse/relay box under the bonnet16.3 Auxiliary fuse box in the glovebox
procarmanuals.com