1985 FORD GRANADA door lock

Chapter 12
Bodywork and fittings
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Bonnet insulation panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Boot lid lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Bumper mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Door exterior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Door interior trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Door latch assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Door lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Door striker plate - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Door weatherstrip - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Door window frame mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .31
Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Door window regulator mechanism - removal and refitting . . . . . . .24
Exterior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Facia panels and trim - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Front bumper - height adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Front seat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Front seat air cushion - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Front seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Front spoiler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37Fuel filler lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Headlining - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Interior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Motifs and emblems - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Overhead console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Rear parcel shelf - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Rear quarter window moulding - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .32
Rear seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Rear seat components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Seat belts - care and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Side mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Sliding roof - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Tailgate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Tailgate latch assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Tailgate lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Tailgate strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Tailgate window mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Windscreen and fixed glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Windscreen mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front seat belt buckle to seat frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 to 64 38 to 47
Seat belt retractor bolts (front and rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 33
Other seat belt anchorages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 33
Rear seat back hinge to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 16 to 18
Rear seat back latch striker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 60 30 to 44
Front seat retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 32 18 to 24
Front seat frame-to-slide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 32 18 to 24
Rear bumper mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 16
Front bumper adjuster lockbolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 16
12•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
12
The bodyshell and floorpan are of pressed
steel, and form an integral part of the vehicle’s
structure. Various reinforcing and mounting
components beneath the floorpan are made of
HSLA (High Strength Low Alloy) and REPHOS
(rephosphorised) steels, which have superiorstrength-to-weight characteristics when
compared with conventional steels.
Extensive use is made of plastic for
peripheral components such as the radiator
grille, bumpers and wheel trims, and for much
of the interior trim.
Interior fittings are to the high standard
expected in a vehicle of this class, with even
the basic level models well equipped. A wide
range of options is available, including air
conditioning and leather upholstery.The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
2 Maintenance - bodywork and
underframe1 General information
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important also to keep watch on those parts of
the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches, and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids which may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way, to remove any
accumulated mud, which will retain moisture
and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically
enough, the best time to clean the underframe
and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the
mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet
weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of
large accumulations automatically, and this is
a good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-
based underbody protective coating, it is a
good idea to have the whole of the underframe
of the vehicle steam-cleaned, engine
compartment included, so that a thorough
inspection can be carried out to see what
minor repairs and renovations are necessary.
Steam-cleaning is available at many garages,
and is necessary for the removal of the
accumulation of oily grime, which sometimes
is allowed to become thick in certain areas. If
steam-cleaning facilities are not available,
there are some excellent grease solvents
available which can be brush-applied; the dirt
can then be simply hosed off. Note that these
methods should not be used on vehicles with
wax-based underbody protective coating, or
the coating will be removed. Such vehicles
should be inspected annually, preferably just
prior to Winter, when the underbody should be
washed down, and any damage to the wax
coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh
coat should be applied. It would also be worth
considering the use of such wax-based
protection for injection into door panels, sills,
box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard
against rust damage, where such protection is
not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.
After washing paintwork, wipe off with a
chamois leather to give an unspotted clear
finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish will
give added protection against chemical
pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has
dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher
combination to restore the brilliance of the
shine. This requires a little effort, but such
dulling is usually caused because regular
washing has been neglected. Care needs to
be taken with metallic paintwork, as special
non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to
avoid damage to the finish. Always check that
the door and ventilator opening drain holes
and pipes are completely clear, so that water
can be drained out. Brightwork should be
treated in the same way as paintwork.
Windscreens and windows can be kept clear
of the smeary film which often appears, by theuse of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use
any form of wax or other body or chromium
polish on glass.
Mats and carpets should be brushed or
vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free
of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them
from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,
and make quite sure they are dry before
refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be
kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they
do become stained (which can be more
apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a
little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to
scour the grime out of the grain of the material.
Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in
the same way as the upholstery. When using
liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not over-
wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive
damp could get into the seams and padded
interior, causing stains, offensive odours or
even rot. If the inside of the vehicle gets wet
accidentally, it is worthwhile taking some
trouble to dry it out properly, particularly
where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or
electric heaters inside the vehicle for this
purpose.
Repairs of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the
scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very
fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from
the scratch, and to clear the surrounding
bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with
clean water.
Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a
fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers
of paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding
paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then blend it into the
surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch
area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine
cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique is
required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can
be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a
very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the
scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smoothcotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep
it across the surface of the stopper-paste in
the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of
the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this Section.
Repairs of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact, and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is
better to bring the level of the dent up to a
point which is about 3 mm below the level of
the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,
hold a suitable block of wood firmly against
the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact
from the hammer blows and thus prevent a
large area of the bodywork from being “belled-
out”.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork which has a double skin, or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers.
The next stage of the repair is the removal
of the paint from the damaged area, and from
an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork. This is accomplished most easily
by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a
power drill, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive
paper. To complete the preparation for filling,
score the surface of the bare metal with a
screwdriver or the tang of a file, or
alternatively, drill small holes in the affected
area. This will provide a really good “key” for
the filler paste.
To complete the repair, see the Section on
filling and respraying.
Repairs of rust holes or gashes in
bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area, and
from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire
brush on a power drill. If these are not
available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will
do the job most effectively. With the paint
removed, you will be able to judge the severity
of the corrosion, and therefore decide whether
to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or
4Minor body damage - repair
3Maintenance - upholstery and
carpets
12•2Bodywork and fittings
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to repair the affected area. New body panels
are not as expensive as most people think,
and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to
fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large
areas of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area,
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg
headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in
order to create a slight depression for the filler
paste.
Wire-brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the
surface of the remaining metal. Paint the
affected area with rust-inhibiting paint, if the
back of the rusted area is accessible, treat this
also.
Before filling can take place, it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by the use of aluminium or
plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim
it to the approximate size and shape required,
then pull off the backing paper (if used) and
stick the tape over the hole; it can be
overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally speaking, those proprietary kits
which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of
resin hardener are best for this type of repair.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth
and well-contoured finish to the surface of the
filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
surface. As soon as a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long, the paste will become sticky and begin
to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to
add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minuteintervals, until the level of the filler is just proud
of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, the excess can
be removed using a metal plane or file. From
then on, progressively-finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40-
grade production paper, and finishing with a
400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap
the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,
or wooden block - otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-
dry paper should be periodically rinsed in
water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage, the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork. Rinse
the repair area with clean water, until all of the
dust produced by the rubbing-down operation
has gone.
Spray the whole area with a light coat of
primer - this will show up any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and once more smooth the
surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this
spray-and-repair procedure until you are
satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the
feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.
Clean the repair area with clean water, and
allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out in
a warm, dry, windless and dust-free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust which would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape, and several thicknesses of
newspaper, for the masking operations.
Before commencing to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint, rather
than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-
dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer
until it is really smooth. While doing this, the
work area should be thoroughly doused with
water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically
rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying
on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up thethickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,
and then, using a side-to-side motion, work
until the whole repair area and about 2 inches
of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15
minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg
bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major
body panels), rectification of more serious
damage to such items has become a matter of
either entrusting repair work to a specialist in
this field, or renewing complete components.
Repair of such damage by the DIY owner is
not really feasible, owing to the cost of the
equipment and materials required for effecting
such repairs. The basic technique involves
making a groove along the line of the crack in
the plastic, using a rotary burr in a power drill.
The damaged part is then welded back
together, using a hot-air gun to heat up and
fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove. Any
excess plastic is then removed, and the area
rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is important
that a filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as
body components can be made of a variety of
different types (eg polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions, this
is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler
used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it with
epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of
finding a suitable paint for finishing which is
compatible with the type of plastic used. At
one time, the use of a universal paint was not
possible, owing to the complex range of
plastics encountered in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally
speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber
satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to
obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which
consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer
and coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the
method of use is to first apply the pre-primer
to the component concerned, and allow it to
dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is
applied, and left to dry for about an hour
before finally applying the special-coloured
top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured
component, where the paint will flex with the
plastic or rubber, a property that standard
paint does not normally posses.
Bodywork and fittings 12•3
12
If bodystopper is used, it can be
mixed with cellulose thinners,
to form a thin paste which is
ideal for filling small holes.
procarmanuals.com

Where serious damage has occurred or
large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means certainly that completely new sections
or panels will need welding in and this is best
left to professionals. If the damage is due to
impact, it will also be necessary to completely
check the alignment of the bodyshell
structure. Due to the principle of construction,
the strength and shape of the whole car can
be affected by damage to one part. In such
instances the services of a Ford agent with
specialist checking jigs are essential. If a body
is left misaligned, it is first of all dangerous as
the car will not handle properly, and secondly
uneven stresses will be imposed on the
steering, engine and transmission, causing
abnormal wear or complete failure. Tyre wear
may also be excessive.
1Open and prop the bonnet.
2Mark around the bonnet hinge bolts, using
soft pencil or a washable marker pen, to
provide a guide when refitting (see
illustration).
3Disconnect the windscreen washer hose atthe non-return valve or washer pump. Be
prepared for fluid spillage.
4Disconnect the under-bonnet light (when
fitted).
5Free the insulation from around the left-
hand hinge bolts. With the help of an assistant,
support the bonnet and remove the hinge
bolts. Unhook the bonnet from the pump and
remove it.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the gap between the bonnet
and the wings is equal on both sides when the
bonnet is shut; adjust if necessary at the hinge
bolts.
7Adjust the bump stops and bonnet lock
striker if necessary to obtain satisfactory
opening and closing of the bonnet (see
illustration).
Later models
8The operation for later models is essentially
as described above, noting thatit will be
necessary to unclip the insulation panel from
the underside of the bonnet to gain access to
the windscreen washer hose and washer
nozzle heater wiring plugs (see illustration).
9Disconnect the wiring plugs and hose and
free them from the retaining clips on the right-
hand side of the bonnet before removal.
10On refitting ensure that the hose and
wiring are correctly routed and retained by all
the necessary clips before refitting the
insulation panel (see illustrations).1Open the door and disconnect the wiring
multi-plug from the door pillar (see
illustration).
2Unbolt the door check strap.
3Slacken, but do not remove, the hinge
cotter pin nuts (see illustration).
4Open the door to approximately 60°from
the vehicle body and lift it off the hinges. If the
door is reluctant to move, make sure that it is
opened to the correct angle and that the cotter
pin nuts are adequately slackened.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Adjust the door striker plate if necessary as
described in Section 12.
6If a new door is to be fitted, new hinges will
have to be welded to it after trial fitting.
Consult a Ford dealer for details.
Hatchback models
1Open the tailgate and remove the interior
trim panel, which is retained by eleven screws.
2Disconnect the wiring from the heated rear
window, aerial pre-amplifier and lock solenoid.
3Repeat paragraph 2 for the rear wiper motor
and the rear washer tube, and any other
electrical equipment.
8Tailgate - removal and refitting
7Door - removal and refitting
6Bonnet - removal and refitting
5Major body damage - repair
12•4Bodywork and fittings
6.2 Left-hand hinge bolts (arrowed) are
obscured by insulation
6.10 On refitting ensure the wiring and
hoses are correctly routed and secured by
all necessary retaining clips
7.1 Door wiring multi-plug7.3 One of the hinge cotter pins (arrowed)
6.7 Bonnet lock striker and safety catch6.8 On later models disconnect the washer
nozzle heater wiring plugs before removing
the bonnet
procarmanuals.com

3Apply masking tape to the front and sides of
the roof aperture to protect the paintwork.
4Close the roof. Remove the Torx screw
which secures the operating handle,
counterholding the handle whilst slackening
the screw (see illustration). Remove the
operating handle.
5With the aid of an assistant, remove the
sliding roof assembly by pushing it up from
inside and drawing it forwards from outside.
Support the rear of the roof as it is removed.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1If the release cable has broken, the bonnet
catch can be released from below with the aid of
a long screwdriver. It will be necessary to raise
and support the front of the vehicle for access.
With the bonnet open, proceed as follows.
2Remove the steering column lower shroud.
3Disconnect the cable from the release lever
by pulling the cable outer from the bracket,
then unhooking the inner from the lever (see
illustration).
4Pull the cable through the bulkhead
grommet into the engine bay. Release the
cable from any clips or ties.
5Disengage the inner and outer cables from
the bonnet catch (see illustration). Remove
the cable.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
being careful not to kink or bend the cable.
Check that operation of the release lever causes
the catch to move before closing the bonnet.
1Open the door and slacken the two Torx
screws which secure the striker plate. The
screws should be loosened until the plate can
be moved by tapping, but not by hand pressure.
2Move the striker plate if necessary until it is
aligned with the centre of the latch opening
(see illustration).
3Open and close the door a few times until the
locking action is smooth and the door position
when shut is satisfactory. Then open the door
again and tighten the striker plate screws.1Remove the door interior trim panel.
2Carefully peel away the foam rubber sheet
in the area of the door handle operating rod.
Disconnect the rod from the handle.
3Remove the two screws which secure the
handle to the door, then remove the handle.
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Remove the door interior trim panel.
2Carefully peel away the foam rubber sheet
in the area of the lock barrel. Unhook the
operating rod from the lock barrel lever (see
illustration).
3When so equipped, unclip the switch from
the lock barrel and disconnect its wiring.
4Remove the large U-clip which secures the
lock barrel to the door. Remove the barrel.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Check the lock for correct operation before
refitting the door trim.
1Remove the door interior trim panel.
2Carefully peel away the foam rubber sheet
in the area of the door latch. Unhook the lock
barrel operating rod from the latch. Also
unhook the exterior handle operating rod.
3Disconnect the lock motor multi-plug (when
fitted). Remove the two screws to release the
lock motor. Pivot the motor to release the
operating rod from it.
4Remove the door interior handle securing
screw (see illustration). Slide the handle
rearwards to release it from the door. Unhook
the rods from the handle and release them
from their bushes.
5When door latch switches are fitted,
disconnect the switch multi-plug.
6Remove the three screws which secure the
door latch (see illustration). Manoeuvre the
latch behind the window channel and out of
15Door latch assembly -
removal and refitting
14Door lock barrel - removal
and refitting
13Door exterior handle -
removal and refitting
12Door striker plate - adjustment
11Bonnet release cable -
removal and refitting
12•6Bodywork and fittings
11.3 Unhooking the cable inner from the
release lever
14.2 Unhook the operating rod (arrowed)
from the lock barrel lever
15.4 Door interior handle securing screw
(arrowed)
15.6 Door latch securing screws
11.5 Bonnet release cable connected to
catch12.2 Door latch striker in line with centre of
opening
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the door through the large cut-out. Further
displacement or removal of the foamrubber
sheet may be necessary.
7Refit in the reverse order to removal, noting
the following points:
a)Apply a little grease to the interior handle
rods where they pass through the plastic
bushes
b)When securing the interior handle, have
the locking lever in the “unlocked”
position, hold the assembly forwards as
far as itwill go and tighten the securing
screw
c)Check all functions before refitting the trim
panel.
Door weatherstrip
1Open the door and remove the weatherstrip
securing screw from the latch end. In the case
of the rear door, also remove the screw from
the hinge end.
2Carefully lift the latch end of the
weatherstrip and pull it off the door.
3Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using your palm to seat the weatherstrip.
Aperture weatherstrip
4Open the door. Remove the scuff plate
securing screws from the bottom of the door
aperture.
5Pull the old weatherstrip out of the door
aperture.
6Fit the new weatherstrip, starting at the
right-angled corner at the top. Fit the
weatherstrip to the other corners and bends,
leaving the straight sections until last.
7Refit the scuff, plate securing screws.
All models except Estate
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.
3Remove the six nuts which secure the
tailgate handle. Remove the handle and
recover the gasket.
4Disconnect the tailgate lock switch multi-
plug. Release the switch locking tab and
remove the switch.
5Disconnect the operating rod from the lock
lever (see illustration). Extract the U-clip and
remove the lock barrel.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Estate models
7The tailgate lock barrel can be removed and
refitted as described above, bearing in mind
the notes made in Section 8 when removing
the interior trim panels and noting that the lock
assembly is retained by two Torx bolts.1Open up the boot lid and remove the trim
panel from the inside of the lid.
2Unscrew the four boot lid exterior trim
retaining panel bolts (two situated on each
side of the lock) then carefully prise out the
nine panel retaining clips and remove the
panel from the boot lid.
3Undo the two lock barrel retaining nuts then
partially withdraw the barrel and disconnect the
wiring connector and lock operating rod from
the barrel. Remove the lock barrel from the lid.
4Undo the four lid lock retaining bolts then
withdraw the lock assembly from the boot lid,
disconnecting the central locking and warning
switch wiring plugs (see illustration).
5Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure tightening all retaining bolts
securely. On completion check the operation
of the boot lid lock and lock barrel before
refitting the trim panel.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.
3Unhook the operating rod from the tailgate
latch. Also disconnect the lock switch and
solenoid multi-plugs.4Remove the three bolts which secure the
tailgate latch. Remove the latch.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
1Open the tailgate and support it with a piece
of wood.
2Release the strut from its mountings by
raising the spring clips with a small
screwdriver, then pulling the strut off the ball-
stands. Do not raise the clips more than 4 mm
(0.16 in) if the strut is to be re-used.
3Do not attempt to dismantle a strut, and
dispose of it safely. It contains gas under
pressure.
4To refit a strut, position it over the ball-
studs. Push on each end in turn until it snaps
home.
1Open the fuel filler flap. Remove the key.
2Apply pressure to the lock barrel at the key
slot, using the thumb of one hand. With the
other hand insert a screwdriver into the cut-
out in the filler flap to release the lock barrel
retaining spring. As the spring is released,
thumb pressure will eject the lock barrel into
the petrol tank (see illustration).
3To refit, push the lock barrel into the flap
until the retaining spring clicks home.
Front door
1Open the door and remove the screws
which secure the front and rear edges of the
trim panel (see illustration).
2Remove the two screws from under the
covers on the door pocket. Unclip and remove
the pocket.
3On models with electrically-operated
windows and mirrors, prise out and disconnect
the window and mirror switches. The window
switch multi-plugs on the driver’s side are
22Door interior trim panel -
removal and refitting
21Fuel filler lock barrel -
removal and refitting
20Tailgate strut - removal and
refitting
19Tailgate latch assembly -
removal and refitting
18Boot lid lock barrel - removal
and refitting
17Tailgate lock barrel - removal
and refitting
16Door weatherstrip - removal
and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•7
12
17.5 Operating rod (arrowed) connected to
tailgate lock lever18.4 Boot lid lock retaining bolts (arrowed)
- Saloon models
21.2 Removing the fuel filler flap lock barrel
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Later models
7The radiator grille of these models can be
removed and refitted as described above,
noting that it will also be necessary to remove
the headlamp wiper arms (where fitted) before
the grille can be removed. To remove a wiper
arm, lift the cover to gain access to the
retaining nut then undo the nut and pull the
arm off the spindle (see illustration). On
refitting, position the arm so that it is correctly
aligned with the base of the headlamp and
locate it on the spindle splines. Refit the
spindle nut and tighten it securely.
1Prise the centre insert out of the moulding
with a screwdriver.
2Remove the securing screws and pull off the
moulding. In the case of the door mouldings,
note that the ends are also secured with
adhesive tape (see illustration).
3Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use new adhesive tape when necessary.
1A blind rivet gun will be needed for this job.
2Open the front doors. Remove the gutter
weatherstrip, making sure to release the
bottom flap which is glued to the A-pillar.
3Drill out the five rivets which secure the side
moulding. The side moulding can now be
removed
4Repeat the operations on the other side of
the vehicle, then remove the upper moulding
by pulling it upwards.
5Commence refitting by pushing the upper
moulding onto its clips. Make sure it is
centrally aligned.
6Refit the side mouldings and secure them
with new blind rivets.
7Clean and degrease the gutter weatherstrip
flaps, then glue them in position and refit the
weatherstrips.1Open the tailgate. From inside remove the
two nuts which secure the upper moulding
and the two screws which secure the lower
moulding. Close the tailgate.
2Prise off the lower moulding and fittings.
3Pull off the side mouldings, which are
clipped to the edge of the glass.
4To remove the upper moulding, carefully lift
one end. Free the moulding from its clips,
working from the lifted end, and remove it.
5To remove the lower moulding, simply pull it
from its clips.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Make sure that the upper and lower mouldings
are centred before securing them.
1A blind rivet gun will be needed to refit some
of these mouldings.
2Commence by removing the door
weatherstrip.
Front door
3Remove the nut which secures the upper
moulding. Carefully prise the upper moulding
off the door.
4Prise the edge moulding out of the window
channel, then twist it and remove it. 5Remove the door mirror.
6Drill out the rivet which secures the front
corner moulding. Remove the moulding.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using a new blind rivet to secure the corner
moulding.
Rear door
8Remove the nut securing the upper moulding
to the front top corner of the door. Carefully pull
the moulding from the door, separating the
stud and bush fitting at the rear end.
9Drill out the rivet which secures the rear
moulding to the top of the door. Separate the
rear moulding flange from the door and
window channel and remove it by twisting it.
10Remove the front moulding by separating
the weatherstrip from the back of it and lifting
the moulding from the door.
11Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Use a new rivet to secure the rear moulding.
1A blind rivet gun will be needed to refit the
moulding.
2Open the rear door. Drill out the rivets which
secure the weatherstrip to the mouldings.
3Drill out the top rivet and remove the upper
moulding from its studs.
4Open the tailgate, drill out the lower
moulding rivet and remove the lower moulding
from its clips.
5Drill out the three rivets which secure the
side moulding. Remove the side moulding.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations,
using new rivets to secure the mouldings.
1The bonnet emblem, tailgate motif and
other badges are glued in place. They may be
removed by using a piece of thin braided nylon
cord, making a back-and-forth motion to cut
through the adhesive.
2Clean old adhesive from the bonnet or boot
lid using methylated spirit.
3If a new emblem is to be fitted, warm it (for
instance with a hairdryer) until it is warm to the
touch. Peel the backing paper off the adhesive
surface and press the emblem into position,
making sure that it is properly aligned. Hold
the emblem in place for at least half a minute
to allow the glue to set.
1Front bumper height is easily adjusted by
means of the two adjusters incorporated in the
front mountings (see illustration). A Torx key
to fit the locking bolt and a 24 mm socket will
be required.
34Front bumper - height
adjustment
33Motifs and emblems -
removal and refitting
32Rear quarter window
moulding - removal and
refitting
31Door window frame
mouldings - removal and
refitting
30Tailgate window mouldings -
removal and refitting
29Windscreen mouldings -
removal and refitting
28Side mouldings - removal and
refitting
12•10Bodywork and fittings
27.5 Removing the radiator grille centre
section
A Raise tangB Twist apart
27.7 Removing a headlamp wiper arm
28.2 Door side mouldings
A ScrewsB Adhesive tape
procarmanuals.com

19Slacken and remove the two switch panel
retaining screws then carefully slide the panel
up over the handbrake lever until the switch
wiring connectors can be accessed (see
illustrations). Disconnect the wiring
connectors from all the switches, then release
the loom from any relevant retaining clips and
manoeuvre the switch panel off the handbrake
lever.
20Slacken and remove the seven centre
console retaining screws (two at the front, one
on each side and three at the rear) then lift up
the console and disconnect the wiring
connector from the rear cigarette lighter.
Remove the console assembly from the car
(see illustrations).
21Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the interior light by carefully prising
it out of the console and disconnecting it.
3Remove the sliding roof control handle or
switches (as applicable).
4Remove the two retaining screws from the
front of the console. Pull the front of the
console down and then slide the assembly
rearwards to release it from the two clips (see
illustrations). These clips may be quite tight.
Disconnect the clock.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.1Move the seat rearwards as far as possible,
then remove the two front retaining bolts (see
illustration).
2Disconnect the assist spring from under the
driver’s seat. (Moving the seat forwards will
reduce the tension on this spring, but also
makes it harder to get at.)
3When applicable, disconnect the seat
heating and/or adjustment motor multi-plugs.
4Move the seat fully forwards and remove the
three rear retaining bolts. These bolts are
under plastic covers (see illustrations).
5Lift out the seat, complete with adjustment
mechanism and seat belt buckle.
6If a new seat is being fitted, transfer the
adjustment mechanism and other components
to it.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tighten the seat retaining bolts to the
specified torque.
1Remove the front seat as described in the
previous Section.
2Remove the side trim pieces from the seat.
Free the air tube by removing Its two securing
screws.
3Separate the backrest from the base of theseat by removing the four retaining bolts.
4Remove the backrest cover by unbending
its retaining tags and sliding it off.
5Expose the air cushion by lifting up the foam
padding. Cut the hog rings (wire loops) which
secure the corners of the cushion and remove
it with the air hoses.
6When refitting, use new hog rings. Position
the cut-out in the cushion level with the
second spring in the backrest.
7The remainder of refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure.
1All models are fitted with inertia reel front
seat belts as standard. Rear seat belts are
available as an extra.
2Maintenance is limited to periodic
inspection of the belts for fraying or other
damage. Also check the operation of the
buckles and retractor mechanisms. In case of
damage or malfunction the belt must be
renewed.
3If it is wished to clean the belts, use only an
approved upholstery cleaner or a weak
solution of detergent, followed by rinsing with
water. Do not use solvents, strong detergents,
dyes or bleaches. Keep the belt extended until
it is dry.
4Belts which have been subjected to impact
loads must be renewed.
1Remove the cover from the belt top anchor.
With the adjustable type of anchor(see
illustration)the cover is removed by levering
out the adjuster button and removing two
screws.
2Remove the anchor bolt or nut and detach
the seat belt runner from it. Note the position
of any washers or spacers.
3Carefully pull out the door aperture
weatherstrips (front and rear) from the B-pillar
(see illustration). Unclip the pillar trim.
4Remove the screws which secure the
retractor cover trim, pull away more of the
47Front seats belts - removal
and refitting
46Seat belts - care and
maintenance
45Front seat air cushion -
removal and refitting
44Front seat - removal and
refitting
43Overhead console - removal
and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•17
12
43.4a One of the overhead console
retaining screws43.4b Slide the console rearwards to
release the clips (arrowed)44.1 Removing a front seat retaining bolt
44.4a Front seat outboard rear retaining
bolt44.4b The other two rear retaining bolts are
under the cover
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