
20When refitting, check the switch for
correct operation before refitting the shrouds
and steering wheel centre cover. When fitting
the shrouds, be careful not to trap the switch
rubber gaiter.
Models from April 1992
21Note that if access to the switch retaining
screws cannot be gained with the steering
wheel in position, then the steering wheel
must first be removed.
Windscreen wipe/wash switch
Models before April 1992
22Proceed as described in the previous sub-
section for the direction indicator switch.
Depending on equipment, the wipe/wash
switch may have more than one multi-plug
connected to it.
Models from April 1992
23Note that if access to the switch retaining
screws cannot be gained with the steering
wheel in position, then the steering wheel
must first be removed.
Door pillar switch (for courtesy
light)
24Remove the single securing screw and pull
the switch from its location (see illustration).
25Retain the wiring with (for instance) string
or a clothes peg, so that it cannot fall into the
door pillar, then disconnect the switch.
26Lubricate the plunger of the switch with a
little petroleum jelly when refitting
Reversing light switch (manual
gearbox)
27Raise the front of the vehicle and support
it securely.
28Locate the reversing light switch, which is
located on the right-hand side of the gearbox.
29Disconnect the wiring from the switch,
wipe clean around it and unscrew it.
30When refitting, make sure that the switch
wiring is routed sufficiently far from the
exhaust system to avoid damage due to heat.
Window operating switch
31The window operating switch is removed
from the armrest or console in the same way
as the mirror control switch previously
described (see illustration).
Sliding roof switch
32Carefully prise the switch from the overhead
console using a thin-bladed screwdriver.
33Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
switch.
Tailgate lock switch
34The tailgate lock switch controls the
luggage area lights. When appropriate, it also
provides inputs to the auxiliary warning and
anti-theft systems.
35To avoid damage to other components,
the battery must be disconnected before the
tailgate lock switch is removed.
36Remove the tailgate interior trim panel,
which is secured by eleven screws.37Release the switch locking tab, pivot the
switch away from the lock and disconnect it.
38When refitting, make sure that the slot on
the switch engages with the operating lug on
the lock barrel.
Handbrake “ON” switch
39Gain access to the base of the handbrake
lever by removing the rubber gaiter and (if
necessary) the centre console or switch panel
(see illustration).
40Disconnect the wiring from the handbrake
switch. Undo the two screws and remove the
switch, noting how the screws do not pass
through holes in the lever but engage in slots.
41After refitting the switch, check for correct
operation before refitting the surrounding trim.
Stop-light switch
42Remove the under-dash trim on the
driver’s side. The trim is secured by plastic
clips.
43Disconnect the wiring from the switch.
Turn the switch 90°anti-clockwise and
remove it from the brake pedal bracket (see
illustration).
44When refitting, hold the pedal in the fully
raised position, push in the switch and turn it
clockwise to lock it. Release the pedal and
check that at least 2 mm (0.08 in) of the switch
plunger is visible (see illustration).
Oil pressure warning switch
All engines except DOHC
45This switch is located on the left-hand side
of the cylinder block. Access may be impeded
by one of the manifolds and associated
equipment.
46Disconnect the wire from the switch, then
unscrew the switch and remove it.
47Clean the switch and its seat before
refitting. Apply a little sealant to the switch
threads if wished.
48Run the engine and check that there are
no oil leaks from the switch. Stop the engine
and check the oil level.
DOHC engines
49On these engines the switch is located on
the right-hand side of the cylinder block
between the core plugs.
13•12Body electrical system
15.24 Door pillar switch securing screws
(arrowed)
15.43 Stop-light switch fitted to brake
pedal bracket
15.44 Fitting the stop-light switch (A)
Plunger protrusion (between arrows) must be
at least 2 mm (0.08 in)
15.31 Removing a window operating switch15.39 Handbrake “On” switch
procarmanuals.com

REF•4
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it is
necessary to observe the following procedures
and instructions. This will assist in carrying out
the operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that this
method may not be suitable where dowels are
used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used, unless
specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its
face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid
before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do
this could cause the housing to crack due to
the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is
screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder
head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up
instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in
the correct sequence, followed by one or
more stages of tightening through specified
angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of
tightening should always have a washer
between it and the relevant component or
housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and in
such cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with new
ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found on
the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. Unless you are highly-
skilled and have a thorough understanding of
the procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal injury,
but expensive damage could be caused to the
components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices are
encountered during servicing or overhaul, they
should, wherever possible, be renewed or
refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.
General Repair Procedures
procarmanuals.com

Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 5).
m mDistributor cap cracked or tracking internally (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine hesitates on acceleration
m
mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine stalls
m
mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine lacks power
m
mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mBrakes binding (Chapters 1 and 10).
m mClutch slipping (Chapter 6).
Engine backfires
m
mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine
running
m mLow oil level, or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty oil pressure sensor (Chapter 2).
m mWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).
m mExcessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
m mOil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2).
m mOil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2).
Note:Low oil pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not
necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far
more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender
before condemning the engine.
Engine runs-on after switching off
m mExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).
m mExcessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
Engine noises
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or
under load
m mIgnition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mIncorrect grade of spark plug (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Whistling or wheezing noises
m
mLeaking inlet manifold or throttle body gasket (Chapter 4).
m mLeaking exhaust manifold gasket (Chapter 4).
m mLeaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4 and 10).
m mBlowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
Tapping or rattling noises
m
mWorn valve gear, timing chain, camshaft or hydraulic tappets
(Chapter 2).
m mAncillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3,
5, etc).
Knocking or thumping noises
m mWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under
load) (Chapter 2).
m mWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load) (Chapter 2).
m mPiston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2).
m mAncillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3,
5, etc).
REF•7Fault Finding
2Cooling system
Overheating
m
mAuxiliary drivebelt broken or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).
m mInsufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mRadiator core blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3).
m mElectric cooling fan or thermostatic switch faulty (Chapter 3).
m mViscous-coupled fan faulty (Chapter 3).
m mIgnition timing incorrect, or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mInaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).
m mAirlock in cooling system (Chapter 3).
Overcooling
m
mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mInaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).
External coolant leakage
m
mDeteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1).
m mRadiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).
m mPressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).
m mWater pump internal seal leaking (Chapter 3).
m mWater pump-to-block seal leaking (Chapter 3).
m mBoiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).
m mCore plug leaking (Chapter 2).
Internal coolant leakage
m
mLeaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
m mCracked cylinder head or cylinder block (Chapter 2).
Corrosion
m
mInfrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (Chapter 1).
procarmanuals.com

Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m m
Transmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).
General gear selection problems
m m
The most likely cause of gear selection problems is a faulty or
poorly-adjusted gear selector mechanism. The following are common
problems associated with a faulty selector mechanism:
a)Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b)Indicator on gear selector lever pointing to a gear other than
the one actually being used.
c)Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
d)Poor gear shift quality, or erratic gear changes.
m
mRefer any problems to a Ford dealer, or an automatic transmission
specialist.
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed
m m
Low transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).
m
mIncorrect selector adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
m m
Faulty starter inhibitor switch (Chapter 7B).
m
mIncorrect selector adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no
drive in forward or reverse gears
m m
There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility - fluid
level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission specialist,
check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as described in Chapter 1.
Correct the fluid level as necessary, or change the fluid and filter if
needed. If the problem persists, professional help will be necessary.
REF•9Fault Finding
7Propeller shaft
Clunking or knocking noise when taking up drive
m m
Worn universal joints (Chapter 8).m
mLoose flange bolt (Chapter 8).
Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
m m
Worn centre bearing or universal joints (Chapter 8).m
mBent or distorted shaft (Chapter 8).m
mDeteriorated rubber insulator on centre bearing ( Chapter 8)
8Final drive and driveshafts
Excessive final drive noise
m m
Oil level low, or incorrect grade (Chapter 1)m
mWorn bearings (Chapter 9)m
mWorn or badly adjusted crownwheel and pinion (Chapter 9)m
mLoose or deteriorated final drive mountings (Chapter 9)
Oil leakage from final drive
m m
Pinion or output flange oil seal leaking (Chapter 9)
m
mRear cover leaking (Chapter 9)
m
mCover or casing cracked (Chapter 9)
Grating, knocking or vibration from driveshafts
m m
Flange screws loose (Chapter 9)
m
mCV joints worn (Chapter 9)
m
mDriveshaft bent (Chapter 9)
9Braking system
Note:Make sure that the tyres are in good condition and correctly
inflated, that the front wheel alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is
not loaded with weight in an unequal manner. Apart from checking the
condition of all pipe and hose connections, any faults occurring on the
anti-lock braking system should be referred to a Ford dealer for diagnosis.
Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
m m
Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake
pads on one side (Chapters 1 and 10).
m mSeized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper piston (Chapter 10).m
mA mixture of brake pad lining materials fitted between sides
(Chapter 10).
m mBrake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 10).m
mWorn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapters 1
and 11).
Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes
applied
m m
Brake pad friction material worn down to metal backing (Chapters 1
and 10).
m mExcessive corrosion of brake disc - may be apparent after the
vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapters 1 and 10).
Excessive brake pedal travel
m m
Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 10).
m
mAir in hydraulic system (Chapter 10).
m
mFaulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 10).
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m m
Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 10).
m
mDeteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapters 1 and 10).
m
mMaster cylinder mountings loose (Chapter 10).
m
mFaulty master cylinder (Chapter 10).
Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m m
Faulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 10).
m
mDisconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
(Chapters 1 and 10).
m mPrimary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 10).
m
mSeized brake caliper piston(s) (Chapter 10).
m
mBrake pads incorrectly fitted (Chapter 10).
m
mIncorrect grade of brake pads fitted (Chapter 10).
m
mBrake pads contaminated (Chapter 10).
procarmanuals.com

REF•13Glossary of Technical Terms
Catalytic converterA silencer-like device in
the exhaust system which converts certain
pollutants in the exhaust gases into less
harmful substances.
CirclipA ring-shaped clip used to prevent
endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a
groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into
a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece
such as a shaft.
ClearanceThe amount of space between
two parts. For example, between a piston and
a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,
etc.
Coil springA spiral of elastic steel found in
various sizes throughout a vehicle, for
example as a springing medium in the
suspension and in the valve train.
CompressionReduction in volume, and
increase in pressure and temperature, of a
gas, caused by squeezing it into a smaller
space.
Compression ratioThe relationship between
cylinder volume when the piston is at top
dead centre and cylinder volume when the
piston is at bottom dead centre.
Constant velocity (CV) jointA type of
universal joint that cancels out vibrations
caused by driving power being transmitted
through an angle.
Core plugA disc or cup-shaped metal device
inserted in a hole in a casting through which
core was removed when the casting was
formed. Also known as a freeze plug or
expansion plug.
CrankcaseThe lower part of the engine
block in which the crankshaft rotates.
CrankshaftThe main rotating member, or
shaft, running the length of the crankcase,
with offset “throws” to which the connecting
rods are attached.
Crocodile clipSee Alligator clipDDiagnostic codeCode numbers obtained by
accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine
management computer. This code can be
used to determine the area in the system
where a malfunction may be located.
Disc brakeA brake design incorporating a
rotating disc onto which brake pads are
squeezed. The resulting friction converts the
energy of a moving vehicle into heat.
Double-overhead cam (DOHC)An engine
that uses two overhead camshafts, usually
one for the intake valves and one for the
exhaust valves.
Drivebelt(s)The belt(s) used to drive
accessories such as the alternator, water
pump, power steering pump, air conditioning
compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.
DriveshaftAny shaft used to transmit
motion. Commonly used when referring to the
axleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.
Drum brakeA type of brake using a drum-
shaped metal cylinder attached to the inner
surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is
pressed, curved brake shoes with friction
linings press against the inside of the drum to
slow or stop the vehicle.
EEGR valveA valve used to introduce exhaust
gases into the intake air stream.
Electronic control unit (ECU)A computer
which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brakeA braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t
depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.EndfloatThe amount of lengthwise
movement between two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS)A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifoldA part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
F
Fan clutchA viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine fan
speeds in relation to engine speeds.
Feeler bladeA thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
Firing orderThe order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
impulses.
Free playThe amount of travel before any
action takes place. The “looseness” in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
FuseAn electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The typical
fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is
calibrated to melt at a predetermined current
flow (expressed as amps) and break the
circuit.
Fusible linkA circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.Catalytic converter
Crankshaft assembly
Accessory drivebelts
Feeler blade
procarmanuals.com

A
ABS module - 10•11
Accelerator pump diaphragm renewal - 4•12
Accessory shops - 0•8
Acknowledgements - 0•4
Aerial pre-amplifier - 13•22
Air bags - 0•5
Air charge temperature sensor - 5•12
Air cleaner - 1•16, 4•4
Air conditioner - 1•14, 1•15, 3•2, 3•9
Air temperature sensor - 13•18
Alarm signal buzzer - 13•23
Alarm system horn - 13•23
Alternator - 3•7, 5•4
Anti-roll bar - 11•9, 11•12
Anti-theft alarm - 13•22, 13•23
Antifreeze mixture - 3•2
Asbestos - 0•5
Ashtray light - 13•8
Automatic choke - 1•16, 4•10, 4•12
Automatic transmission- 1•11, 1•15, 2B•6,
2B•7, 7B•1et seq, REF•8
Automatic transmission brake band
adjustment - 1•19
Automatic transmission selector light - 13•9
Auxiliary drivebelt - 1•12
Auxiliary driving light - 13•4, 13•6
Auxiliary shaft - 2A•9, 2A•14, 2A•16
Auxiliary warning system components - 13•18
B
Backrests - 12•19, 12•18
Battery - 0•5, 1•8, 1•13, 5•3, 5•4
Battery will not hold a charge for more than
a few days - REF•11
Bleeding the brakes - 10•3
Bleeding the power steering - 11•3
Body corrosion - 0•14
Body damage - 12•2, 12•4
Body electrical system- 13•1et seq
Bodywork and fittings- 12•1et seq
Bodywork repairs - 12•3
Bonnet - 12•4, 12•9
Bonnet release cable - 12•6
Booster battery (jump) starting - 0•10
Boot lid - 12•5
Boot lid lock barrel - 12•7
Brake band adjustment - 1•19, 7B•3
Brake fluid - 1•7, 1•19
Brake hydraulic system - 10•3
Brake pedal effort high to stop vehicle - REF•9
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
- REF•9
Brake pedal pulsates when braking hard -
REF•10
Brake pedal travel excessive - REF•9
Brake pipe and hoses - 1•15, 10•10
Brakes binding - REF•10
Braking system- 0•13, 10•1et seq, REF•9
Bulb failure module - 13•19
Bulbs - 13•4, 13•7
Bumper - 12•10, 12•11
Burning - 0•5
C
Cables - 3•8, 4•7, 6•3, 7B•3, 10•11
Caliper - 10•5, 10•6
Camshaft - 2A•7, 2A•14, 2A•17, 2B•14,
2C•12, 2C•13, 2C•15
Camshaft drivebelt - 1•20
Capacities - 1•3
Carbon canister - 4•23
Carburettor stepper motor - 5•10
Catalytic converter - 4•4
Central locking motor - 13•13
Central locking system inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation - REF•11
Centre console - 12•15
Cigarette lighter - 13•10
Clock - 13•9, 13•10
Clutch- 6•1et seq, REF•8
Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select
gears) - REF•8
Clutch pedal travels to floor - REF•8
Clutch release bearing and arm - 6•4
Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with
no increase in vehicle speed) - REF•8
CO emissions (mixture) - 0•14
Compliance bushes - 11•9
Compression test - 2A•20, 2B•18, 2C•21
Compressor drivebelt - 3•9
Computer module and bulb - 13•18
Condenser fan and motor - 3•10
Connecting rods - 2A•11, 2A•13, 2A•15,
2B•17, 2C•12, 2C•14, 2C•16
Console light - 13•9
Contents - 0•2
Control assembly - 13•19
Control module - 10•13
Control switches - 13•19
Control units - 13•13
Conversion factors - REF•16
Coolant - 1•6, 1•20
Coolant hoses - 2C•7
Coolant leakage - REF•7
Coolant level switch - 13•18
Coolant temperature sensor - 5•10
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems-
3•1 et seq, REF•7
Corrosion - REF•7
Courtesy light - 13•7
Crankcase ventilation system - 1•19,
2A•12, 2B•3, 2C•15
Crankshaft and bearings - 2A•11, 2A•12,
2A•15, 2B•17, 2B•18, 2C•12, 2C•14,
2C•15
Crankshaft oil seals - 2A•10, 2B•15, 2C•12
Crankshaft speed/position sensor - 5•11
Crossmember insulator - 11•12
Crushing - 0•5
Cushion - 12•18
Cylinder block and bores - 2A•13
Cylinder bores - 2C•14
Cylinder head - 2A•6, 2A•8, 2A•14, 2A•17,
2B•10, 2B•11, 2B•14, 2C•8, 2C•13,
2C•19
D
De-ice thermostat - 3•10
Decarbonising - 2A•14
Dents in bodywork - 12•2
Direction indicator - 13•5, 13•11
Discs - 10•3, 10•4, 10•8
Distributor - 5•5
Door exterior handle - 12•6
Door interior trim panel - 12•7
Door latch assembly - 12•6
Door lights - 13•7
Door lock barrel - 12•6
Door pillar switch - 13•12
Door speakers - 13•21
Door striker plate - 12•6
Door switch - 13•18
Door weatherstrip - 12•7
Door window - 12•8, 12•9
Doors - 0•12, 12•4, 12•7, 12•8, 12•9, 12•10
Downshift mechanism - 7B•3
Drivebelts - 1•12, 1•20, 3•7, 3•9, 11•6
Driveshaft - 1•15, 9•3
Drivetrain - 1•16
E
Earth fault - 13•4
EEC IV module - 5•9
Electric shock - 0•5
Electric windows inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation - REF•11
Electrical system - 0•12, 1•8, REF•10
Electronic ignition systems - 5•3
Engine- 2A•1 et seq, 2B•1 et seq, 2C•1 et
seq, REF•6
Engine backfires - REF•7
Engine bay light - 13•8
Engine difficult to start - REF•6
Engine dismantling - 2B•8
Engine electrical systems- 5•1et seq
Engine fails to rotate when attempting to
start - REF•6
Engine hesitates on acceleration - REF•7
Engine idles erratically - REF•6
Engine lacks power - REF•7
Engine management control module - 5•9
Engine management system relays - 5•11
Engine misfires - REF•6, REF•7
Engine mountings - 2A•11, 2B•8, 2C•12
Engine oil and filter - 1•6, 1•9
Engine rotates, but will not start - REF•6
Engine runs-on after switching off - REF•7
Engine stalls - REF•7
Engine starts, but stops immediately -
REF•6
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in
gears other than Park or Neutral -
REF•9
Entertainment console - 13•22
Environmental considerations - REF•4
ESC II module - 5•3, 5•9
Exhaust emission checks - 0•14
Exhaust gas oxygen (HEGO) sensor - 4•22
Exhaust manifold(s) - 4•21
Exhaust system - 0•13, 1•10, 4•22
Expansion tank - 3•7
IND•1Index
Note: References throughout this index are in the form - “Chapter number” • “page number”
procarmanuals.com

IND•2
F
Facia panels and trim - 12•12
Fast idle speed adjustment - 4•13
Fault finding- REF•5et seq
Fault-finding - electrical system - 5•3, 13•3
Final drive and driveshafts- 1•15, 9•1et
seq, 11•10, REF•9
Fire - 0•5
Flasher switch and unit - 13•11
Fluid leakage - REF•8
Fluid level checks - 1•6
Flywheel ring gear - 2A•14, 2C•15
Flywheel/driveplate - 2A•9, 2A•16, 2B•15,
2C•11, 2C•17
Foglight - 13•5,13•13
Footbrake - 0•11, 0•12
Footwell lights - 13•8
Fuel and exhaust systems- 0•14, 4•1et seq,
REF•8
Fuel computer components - 13•17
Fuel consumption high - REF•8
Fuel filler lock barrel - 12•7
Fuel filler switch - 13•18
Fuel filter - 1•19, 4•14
Fuel flow sensor - 13•18
Fuel gauge gives false reading - REF•11
Fuel odour - REF•8
Fuel pressure regulator - 4•18
Fuel temperature sensor - 5•12
Fuel trap (carburettor models) - 5•9
Fume or gas intoxication - 0•5
Fumes from exhaust system - REF•8
Fuses - 13•13
G
G (gravity) switch - 10•14
Gaskets - REF•4
Gear linkage - 7A•4
Gear selection problems - REF•8, REF•9
Glossary of technical terms - REF•12
Glovebox light - 13•8
Graphic display module - 13•18
Graphic equaliser - 13•21
Grille - 12•9
H
Handbrake “ON” switch - 13•12
Handbrake - 0•11, 10•11
Handles - 12•6
Hazard warning switch - 13•9, 13•13
HC emissions - 0•14
Headlight - 13•4, 13•6, 13•7, 13•11
Headlining - 12•11
Headphone relay - 13•22
Heated rear window switch - 13•13
Heated seat control switches - 13•13
Heater assembly - 3•7, 3•8, 3•9, 3•10,
13•11, 13•20
High frequency units - 13•22
High pressure hose - 10•10
Hinges - 1•12
Horn - 13•10
Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory
sound - REF•11Horn fails to operate - REF•11
Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation - REF•11
Horn operates all the time - REF•11
Horn switch plate, slip rings and brushes -
13•10
HT leads - 5•5
HT voltage - 5•3
Hub - 11•11
Hydraulic system seals and hoses - 1•19
Hydraulic unit - 10•8, 10•9, 10•10
Hydrofluoric acid - 0•5
I
Idle mixture - 1•10
Idle speed - 1•10, 4•7, 4•9, 4•11, 4•14, 5•11
Idle speed control valve - 4•15
Idle speed linkage - 1•15
Ignition coil - 5•9
Ignition module - 5•8
Ignition system - 1•17
Ignition timing - 5•7, 5•11
Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to
come on - REF•11
Ignition/no-charge warning light remains
illuminated with engine running - REF•11
Ignition/starter switch - 13•11
Inlet manifold - 1•14, 4•19
Instrument cluster - 13•9, 13•10
Instrument illumination dimmer switch - 13•11
Instrument panel lights - 13•8
Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic -
REF•11
Instruments and electrical equipment - 1•16
Intensive maintenance - 1•6
Interior lights - 13•7
Introduction to the Ford Granada - 0•4
J
Jacking - 0•6
Joint mating faces - REF•4
Joystick fader control - 13•22
Jump starting - 0•10
Jumps out of gear - REF•8
L
Latch locks but will not unlock, or unlocks
but will not lock - REF•11
Leaks - 0•8, 1•10
Lighter - 13•10
Lighting master switch - 13•11
Lights - 13•4, 13•6
Lights inoperative - REF•10
Locknuts, locktabs and washers - REF•4
Locks - 1•12, 12•6, 12•7
Loudspeakers - 13•21, 13•22
Low pressure hose - 10•10
Lower arm - 11•9, 11•12
Lubricant leaks - REF•8
Lubricants and fluids - 1•2
Luggage area light - 13•8
M
Main bearings - 2A•11, 2A•15, 2B•17,
2C•12, 2C•15
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe -
12•1
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets -
12•2
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor -
5•12
Manifold heater - 5•11
Manual gearbox- 1•11, 2B•6, 2B•7, 7A•1et
seq, REF•8
Manual steering - 11•3
Master cylinder - 10•12
Mirror - 0•11, 12•12, 13•11
Mixture adjustment potentiometer - 4•19
Mixture adjustments - 4•7, 4•9, 4•11, 4•14
Motifs and emblems - 12•10
Motor factors - 0•9
Mountings - 2A•11, 2B•8, 2C•12
N
Needle valve and float - 4•11
Number plate light - 13•5
O
Oil - 1•6, 1•9
Oil filler cap - 1•10
Oil filter - 1•9, 2A•11
Oil leakage from final drive - REF•9
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with
engine running - REF•7
Oil pressure warning switch - 13•12
Oil pump - 2A•10, 2A•12, 2A•16, 2B•16,
2B•17, 2C•11, 2C•14, 2C•17
Oil seals - 2A•10, 2B•15, 2C•12, 9•2, 9•3,
REF•4
On load voltage check - 5•5
Open-circuit - 13•3
Overcooling - REF•7
Overhead console - 12•17
Overheating - REF•7
P
Pads - 1•10, 10•4, 10•5
Parcel shelf - 12•19
Parking light - 13•4
Pedal Travel Sensor (PTS) - 10•14
Pedals - 6•2, 4•6, 10•8
Pierburg 2V carburettor - 4•7, 4•9
Pistons and connecting rods - 2A•11, 2A•13,
2A•15, 2B•17, 2C•12, 2C•14, 2C•16
Pitching and/or rolling around corners, or
during braking - REF•10
Plastic components - 12•3
Poisonous or irrirant substances - 0•5
Power steering - 1•16, 11•3, 11•4, 11•6
Power valve diaphragm - 4•12
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during
acceleration or under load - REF•7
Printed circuit board - 13•20
Propeller shaft- 8•1et seq, REF•9
Pushrods - 2C•13
Index
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