1985 FORD GRANADA check engine

camshaft sprocket, aligning the marks made
previously on the chain and the sprocket.
40Fit the sprocket to the inlet camshaft, with
the camshaft in the TDC position (ie with the
inlet camshaft sprocket timing mark in line
with the top edge of the cylinder head,
pointing to the inlet side of the engine see
paragraph 4). Again, turn the camshaft if
necessary to enable the sprocket to be fitted.
41With the sprocket fitted, fit the distributor
rotor shaft to the end of the camshaft, and
tighten the securing bolt finger-tight. Note that
it is acceptable for the timing chain to sag
slightly between the two pulleys.
42Fit a new upper timing chain guide to the
plate at the front of the cylinder head.
43Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the
inlet camshaft begins to turn.
44If the chain tensioner plunger piston
protrudes from the cylinder, unlatch the piston by
pressing the chain tensioner arm down by hand.
45If the plunger piston is below the top
surface of the cylinder, a tool must be
fabricated to unlatch the piston (see
illustration). It is suggested that 2.5 mm
diameter welding rod is used to manufacture
the tool. Use the tool to release the piston as
follows.
46Carefully lift the chain tensioner arm with a
screwdriver, and insert the tool between the
tensioner arm and the piston. Remove the
screwdriver, and release the piston by
pressing the tensioner arm down by hand.
Carefully withdraw the tool once the piston
has been released.
47Tighten the camshaft sprocket securing
bolts to the specified torque, holding the
sprockets stationary as during removal.
48Turn the crankshaft clockwise through two
complete revolutions, and check that the
timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are
still aligned with the top face of the cylinder
head as described in paragraph 4.
49Turn the crankshaft clockwise through
another complete revolution, and check that
the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets
are facing each other, directly in line with the
top face of the cylinder head.
50If the timing marks do not align as
described, the timing chain has been
incorrectly fitted (probably one chain link awayfrom the correct position on one of the
camshaft sprockets), and the chain should be
removed from the sprockets and fitted in the
correct position.
51Inspect the oil seal in the upper timing
chain cover. If the oil seal is in good condition,
the cover can be refitted as follows, but if the
seal is damaged, or has been leaking, a new
seal should be fitted to the cover. If necessary,
carefully prise the old oil seal from the cover
using a screwdriver, and drive in the new seal
using a suitable metal tube. Make sure that the
seal lip faces into the engine. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover.
52Fit the upper timing chain cover using a
new rubber gasket. Great care must be taken
to avoid damage to the oil seal when passing
the seal over the end of the inlet camshaft.
Careful manipulation will be required (possibly
using a thin feeler blade) to avoid damage to
the oil seal sealing lip. Note that the oil seal
should be fitted dry.
53Refit the timing chain cover securing bolts
and studs in their original locations and tighten
them to the specified torque (see illustration).
54Remove the reinforcing sleeves from the
camshaft cover, and renew the rubber sealing
rings. Note that the four short reinforcing
sleeves fit at the front of the cover (see
illustration).
55Refit the camshaft cover using a new
gasket, and tighten the securing bolts and
studs to the specified torque.
Note: A valve spring compressor will be
required during this procedure. New valve
stem oil seals should be used on reassembly.
Dismantle the cylinder head as described in
paragraphs 2 to 4, Section 12, PartA of this
Chapterand reassemble the head as
described in paragraphs 4 to 6, Section 42,
Part A of this Chapter, noting the following
points:
a)Ignore the references to the special tool.
b)Double valve springs are used on all the
valves (see illustration).
c)Refer to the following Section if the
cylinder head is to be inspected and
renovated.Refer to Part A, Section 34 of this Chapter,
noting the following points.
a)Valve and valve seat cutting and
regrinding can be carried out using
conventional tools.
b)The cylinder head cannot be resurfaced,
and if the surface distortion exceeds the
specified limits, the cylinder head must be
renewed.
Note: Once the timing chain has been
removed from the camshaft sprockets, do not
turn the crankshaft until the timing chain has
been correctly refitted - this is to prevent
contact between the valves and pistons. A
new timing chain tensioner plunger assembly,
a new upper timing chain cover gasket, and a
new camshaft cover and reinforcing sleeve
sealing rings must be used on refitting.
1If the engine is in the vehicle, carry out the
following operations.
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner.
c)On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
21Camshafts and cam followers
- removal, inspection and
refitting
20Cylinder head - inspection and
renovation
19Cylinder head - dismantling
and reassembly
2B•14DOHCengine
18.45 Fabricated tool used to unlatch
tensioner plunger piston
19.1 Withdrawing the double valve springs
from the cylinder head
18.53 Upper timing chain cover securing
stud locations (arrowed)18.54 Fitting a camshaft cover reinforcing
sleeve and sealing ring
procarmanuals.com

d)Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover.
e)Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing. If
necessary, mark the HT leads to aid
refitting.
2Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 15
inclusive of Section 18.
3Examine the surfaces of the camshaft
journals and lobes and the contact surfaces of
the cam followers for wear. If wear is
excessive, considerable noise would have
been noticed from the top of the engine when
running, and new camshafts and followers
must be fitted. It is unlikely that this level of
wear will occur unless a considerable mileage
has been covered. Note that the cam followers
cannot be dismantled for renewal of individual
components.
4Check the camshaft bearing surfaces in the
cylinder head and the bearing caps for wear. If
excessive wear is evident, the only course of
action available is to renew the cylinder head
complete with bearing caps.
5Check the cam follower bores in the
cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is
evident, the cylinder head must be renewed.
6Check the cam follower oil grooves and the
oil ports in the cylinder head for obstructions.
7Refit the cam followers and the camshafts as
described in paragraphs 27 to 55 of Section 18.
8If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 1.
Refer to Part A, Section 15 of this Chapter,
noting the following points.
a)If the engine is in the car, refer to Chapter
6 when removing and refitting the clutch,
where applicable.
b)The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts
must be renewed on refitting; the new
bolts are supplied ready-coated with
thread-locking compound (see
illustration).
c)Check on the availability of new parts
before contemplating renewal of the ring
gear.Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
crankshaft pulley bolt and a new lower timing
chain cover gasket must be used on refitting.
1The crankshaft front oil seal is located in the
lower timing chain cover.
2If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations.
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)To improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.
c)On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
3Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 8
of Section 15.
4With the lower timing chain cover removed,
prise the old oil seal from the cover using a
screwdriver, and drive in the new seal using a
suitable metal tube. Make sure that the seal lip
faces into the engine. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover. Note that the
seal should be fitted dry.
5Refit the lower timing chain cover as
described in paragraphs 32 to 40 of Section 15.
6If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 2.
Note: New flywheel/driveplate bolts must be
used on refitting.
1Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
2Extract the seal using an oil seal removal tool
if available. It may also be possible to remove
the oil seal by drilling the outer face and using
self-tapping screws and a pair of grips.
3Clean the oil seal housing, then carefully
wind a thin layer of tape around the edge of
the crankshaft to protect the oil seal lip as the
seal is installed.
4Install a new oil seal. Make sure that the seal
lip faces into the engine (see illustration).5With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
6Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
Note: A new sump gasket will be required on
refitting, and suitable sealing compound will
be required to coat the sump and cylinder
block mating faces. Shims may be required
when mating the gearbox/transmission.
1Sump removal and refitting is far easier if
the engine is removed from the vehicle,
however if the engine is in the vehicle, proceed
as follows. If the engine has been removed
from the vehicle, proceed to paragraph 9.
2Remove the clutch or automatic
transmission, as applicable.
3Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
4Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
5Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned
in the straight-ahead position then, using a
dab of paint or a marker pen, make alignment
marks between the intermediate shaft lower
clamp and steering gear pinion. Slacken and
remove the lower clamp bolt then disconnect
the intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
6Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine.
7Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
8Support the crossmember with a jack, then
loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to
the underbody. Remove the bolts and carefully
lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow
the sump to be removed.
9If the engine has been removed, it is
preferable to keep it upright until the sump has
been removed to prevent sludge from entering
the engine internals.
10Unscrew the sump securing nuts and
bolts, and withdraw the sump from the engine.
Do not prise between the mating faces of the
sump and cylinder block. Discard the old
gasket.
11Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
12Commence refitting by locating a new
gasket in the grooves in the sump.
25Sump - removal and refitting
24Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
23Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
22Flywheel/driveplate - removal
inspection and refitting
DOHCengine 2B•15
2B
22.1 Improvised tool used to hold flywheel
when tightening securing bolts
24.4 Tool used to fit the oil seal
A Rear oil seal housing
B Special tool
A tool can be improvised using
a metal tube, a metal disc or
flat bar, and two flywheel
bolts.Draw the seal into
position using the two flywheel bolts.
If the sump is stuck, gently
tap it sideways to free it (the
sump will not move far
sideways, as it locates on
studs in the cylinder block).
procarmanuals.com

the pump cover, recover the washer, and
withdraw the spring and plunger (see
illustrations).
6Thoroughly clean all components in petrol
or paraffin, and wipe dry using a non-fluffy rag.
7Examine the rotors and the pump casing for
signs of excessive wear on the machined
surfaces. If wear is evident, the complete
pump assembly must be renewed, as spare
parts are not available individually.
8Commence reassembly by lubricating the
relief valve plunger. Fit the plunger and the
spring, and screw the plug into place, ensuring
that the washer is in place under the plug.
9Lubricate the rotors, and fit them to the
pump casing with the punch marks facing the
pump cover (see illustration).
10Refit the pump cover and tighten the
securing bolts.
11Prime the pump before refitting.
1Examine all the teeth on the sprockets. If the
teeth are “hooked” in appearance, renew the
sprockets.
2Examine the chain tensioner for wear and
renew it if necessary.
3Examine the chain for wear. If it has been in
operation for a considerable time, or if when
held horizontally (rollers vertical) it takes on a
deeply bowed appearance, renew it.Note: New connecting rod bolts and a new oil
pick-up pipe gasket must be used on refitting.
1Remove the sump and the cylinder head.
2Unscrew the two securing bolts, and
remove the oil pick-up pipe (see illustration).
Recover the gasket and discard it.
3Unscrew the four securing nuts and
withdraw the oil baffle from the studs on the
main bearing caps (see illustration).
4Removal is as described in Part A, Section 21,
paragraphs 2 to 5 of this Chapter, and refitting
as described in Part A, Section 37, noting the
following additional points:
a)Take note of the orientation of the bearing
shells during dismantling, and ensure that
they are fitted correctly during reassembly.
b)When fitting the pistons, ensure that the
arrow on the piston crown and the letter F
on the face of the connecting rod are
pointing towards the front of the engine.
c)Use new connecting rod bolts on
reassembly; before fitting, oil the threads
and the contact faces of the bolts. Tighten
the bolts to the three stages given in the
Specifications.
d)Refit the oil baffle and tighten the securing
nuts.
e)Clean the mating faces of the cylinder
block and the oil pick-up pipe, and refit
the pick-up pipe using a new gasket.
f)Refit the cylinder head and the sump.Note: A new crankshaft rear oil seal and a new
rear oil seal housing gasket should be used on
reassembly.
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the timing chain and crankshaft
sprocket, and the flywheel/driveplate.
2Remove the pistons and connecting rods. If
no work is to be done on the pistons and
connecting rods, there is no need to push the
pistons out of the cylinder bores.
3Unbolt the crankshaft rear oil seal housing
and remove it from the rear of the cylinder
block. Recover the gasket and discard it.
4Unscrew the two securing bolts and remove
the sump mounting plate from the front of the
cylinder block (see illustration).
5Check the main bearing caps for identification
marks, and if necessary use a centre punch to
identify them (see illustration).
6Before removing the crankshaft, check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits by
inserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and one of the thrustwashers
(the thrustwashers are fitted to the crankcase,
not the bearing cap). This will indicate whether
or not new thrustwashers are required.
7Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells.
8Lift the crankshaft from the cylinder block,
and remove the rear oil seal if it is still in place
on the crankshaft.30Crankshaft and main bearings
- removal and refitting29Pistons and connecting rods
- removal and refitting
28Oil pump drive chain and
sprockets - examination and
renovation
DOHCengine 2B•17
2B
27.5b . . . and withdraw the spring and
plunger27.9 The punch marks (arrowed) on the oil
pump rotors must face the pump cover29.2 Removing the oil pick-up pipe
29.3 Withdrawing the oil baffle30.4 Unscrewing a sump mounting plate
securing bolt30.5 Main bearing cap identification mark
(arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

9Extract the bearing shells, and recover the
thrustwashers, keeping them identified for
location.
10The crankshaft and bearings can be
examined and if necessary renovated.
11Commence refitting as follows(see
illustration).
12Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase, and the crankshaft journals with a
soft non-fluffy rag.
13If the old main bearing shells are to be
renewed (not to do so is a false economy,
unless they are virtually new) fit the five upper
halves of the main bearing shells to their
locations in the crankcase.
14Fit the thrustwashers to the centre main
bearing location, using a little grease to retain
them if necessary. The oil grooves in the
thrustwashers must face outwards (ie facing
the crankshaft webs). Note that where
standard thrustwashers have been fitted in
production, the centre main bearing is
unmarked, but if oversize (0.38 mm)
thrustwashers have been fitted, the centre
main bearing will carry a yellow paint mark.
15Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
clean engine oil, then carefully lower the
crankshaft into the crankcase.
16Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again, and then fit the main bearing caps
in their correct locations, with the arrows on the
caps pointing towards the front of the engine.
17Fit the main bearing cap bolts, noting that
the studded bolts secure bearing caps Nos 3
and 5.
18Lightly tighten all the securing bolts, then
progressively tighten all bolts to the specified
torque.
19Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with newcomponents, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
20Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
21Refit the sump mounting plate to the front
of the cylinder block, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
22Carefully wind a thin layer of tape around
the rear edge of the crankshaft to protect the
oil seal lips as the rear oil seal is installed.
23Refit the crankshaft rear oil seal housing,
using a new gasket, and tighten the securing
bolts to the specified torque.
24Install the new oil seal with reference to
Section 24.
25With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
26Refit the pistons and connecting rods as
described previously in this Chapter.
27Refit the flywheel/driveplate, and the
timing chain and crankshaft sprocket.
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 27
of this Chapter, noting that the production
bearing undersizes are indicated as follows.
Yellow or red paint marks on crankshaft —
standard diameter main bearing journals.
Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
— main bearing journals 0.25 mm
undersize.
Green spot on counterweight — big-end
bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize.
Refer to Part A, Section 25 of this Chapter,
but note that the connecting rod bolts should
be renewed on reassembly, and when
renewing the cylinder head bolts, the latest
type bolts with hexagonal heads should
always be used.
Proceed as described in Part A, Section 35
of this Chapter, noting the following points.
a)If the cylinder head has been removed,
pay particular attention to the note at the
beginning of Section 18.
b)If removed during any dismantling
operations, new flywheel driveplate bolts
and connecting rod bolts must be used.
c)After reassembling the main engine
components, refer to paragraph 3 of
Section 14 and refit the ancillary
components listed.Refer to Part A, Section 51 of this Chapter,
but note that when the engine is first started, a
metallic tapping noise may be heard. This is
due to the timing chain tensioner plunger
assembly taking time to pressurize with oil,
resulting in a temporarily slack chain. The
noise should stop after a short time, once oil
pressure has built up.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.
3Disable the ignition system by dismantling
the coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
35Compression test -
description and interpretation
34Initial start-up after overhaul
or major repair
33Engine reassembly - general
information
32Examination and renovation -
general information
31Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
2B•18DOHCengine
30.11 Crankshaft main bearings and
associated components
1 Bearing cap
2 Thrustwasher
3 Stud for oil baffle
4 Identification markings
5 Bearing shell without oil groove
6 Bearing shell with oil groove
7 Bearing seat in cylinder block
procarmanuals.com

Chapter 2 Part C:
2.4, 2.8 and 2.9 litre V6 engines
Ancillary components - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Camshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . .22
Camshaft and intermediate plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Camshaft and intermediate plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Crankshaft and bearings - examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Cylinder bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Cylinder heads - overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Cylinder heads - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Cylinder heads - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Engine - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Engine - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Engine dismantling - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Examination and renovation - general infomation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Flywheel ring gear - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . .2
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Methods of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Oil pump - dismantling, examination and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . .27
Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . .25
Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Rocker shaft - dismantling, examination and reassembly . . . . . . . .20
Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Tappets and pushrods - examination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Timing cover and drive - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Timing cover and drive - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
2.8 litre engine
General
Manufacturer’s code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PRE
Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93.0 (3.66)
Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.5 (2.70)
Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2792 (170)
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.2:1
Compression pressure at cranking speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.5 to 12.5 bar (167 to 181 lbf/in
2)
Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 @ 5800
Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 @ 3000
Lubrication system
Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants and fluids”
Oil capacity (drain and refill, including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.25 litres (7.5 pints) approx
Oil pressure (SAE 10W/30 oil at 80°C/176°F):
At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 bar
At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar
Oil pressure relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 4.7 bar
Oil pressure warning light switch setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 bar
2C•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
2C
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meters and air inlet trunking. Also remove the
oil filler cap, which is connected to the
trunking by a crankcase ventilation hose.
5Release the securing clips and bolts and
remove the upper half of the fan shroud.
6Drain the cooling system and remove the
radiator.
7Disconnect the heater hoses from the
heater matrix and from the coolant outlet.
Unclip the hoses.
8Remove the fan and viscous clutch (where
fitted).
9Disconnect the following wiring:
a)Alternator
b)Temperature gauge sender
c)Engine management temperature sensor
d)Oil pressure switch
e)Idle speed control valve
f)Throttle position sensor
g)Injector nut-harness
h)Distributor multi-plug
i)Distributor-to-coil HT lead
10Disconnect the throttle cable. When
applicable, also disconnect the downshaft
cable or switch.
11Depressurise the fuel system and
disconnect the fuel supply and return lines
(see Chapter 4).
12Remove the steering pump and air
conditioning compressor drivebelts (as
applicable). Unbolt the steering pump and
compressor, move them aside within the limitsof their flexible hoses and support them by
wiring them to adjacent components.
13Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
14Remove the starter motor.
15Drain the engine oil. Unscrew the oil filter
with a strap or chain wrench and remove it; be
prepared for oil spillage.
16On manual gearbox models, disconnect
the clutch cable from the release lever.
17Unbolt the exhaust pipes from the
manifolds.
18On automatic transmission models, unbolt
the torque converter from the driveplate.
19Attach lifting tackle to the engine. If no
lifting eyes are fitted, pass ropes or chains
round the exhaust manifolds.
20Take the weight of the engine, then
remove the single nut on each side which
holds engine bearer to its mountings.
21From under the vehicle unbolt the engine
adapter plate from the bellhousing.
22Remove the engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
Also disconnect or unclip the battery negative
lead, the starter motor lead and the heat
shield.
23Support the transmission, preferably with
a trolley jack.
24Check that nothing has been overlooked,
then raise the engine and draw it forwards
clear of the transmission input shaft. Do not
allow the weight of the engine to hang on the
shaft, and do not lift the transmission by it.25With automatic transmission, make sure
that the torque converter stays engaged with
the oil pump in the transmission as the engine
is withdrawn.
26Lift the engine out of the engine bay and
take it to the bench.
2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
27The removal operations for these engines
are essentially as described for the 2.8 litre
version. Note the following points.
Coolant hoses
28Remove the hoses which run between the
thermostat housing and the water pump, and
the cooling system expansion tank.
29Remove the heater hoses which run
between the thermostat housing or coolant
distribution pipe and oil cooler (where fitted).
Vacuum hoses
30Disconnect the hose from the fuel
pressure regulator.
31Disconnect the hose from the plenum
chamber.
32Disconnect the hose from the throttle valve.
33Disconnect the hose from the T-piece
connector.
V6 engines 2C•7
2C
1.1 Exploded view of V6 engine
1 Water inlet connection
2 Thermostat
3 Water pump
4 Timing cover
5 By-pass hose flange
7 Camshaft thrust plate
8 Camshaft gear
9 Crankshaft gear
10 Flywheel
11 Crankshaft pilot
bearing
12 Oil seal
13 Oil pump drive shaft
14 Main bearing
15 Oil pump
It may be necessary to rock
the engine a little to release it
from the gearbox.
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4Remove the auxiliary drivebelts.
5Remove the fan and viscous clutch if fitted).
6Jam the crankshaft, either by engaging 5th
gear and applying the handbrake, or by
removing the starter motor and having an
assistant jam a screwdriver in the starter ring
gear teeth. Unbolt the crankshaft pulley. When
the pulley is secured to a vibration damper,
also remove the damper central bolt.
7Remove the pulley or damper, using a puller
if necessary.
8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the front
of the engine, including the water pump
bypass hose.
9Disconnect the heater connecting pipe from
the timing cover and unbolt the two clips
which secure the pipe to the cover of the
cylinder block (see illustration).
10If not already done, remove the starter motor.11Remove the sump.
12Remove the nine securing bolts and
remove the timing cover complete with water
pump and thermostat.
13Turn the crankshaft to bring the marks on
the timing gears into alignment as shown (see
illustration). Note that there are two marks on
the crankshaft gear - do not get them
confused.
14Remove the bolt which secures the
camshaft gear. It should now be possible to
remove the camshaft gear by hand.
15Draw off the crankshaft gear using a puller.
Recover the Woodruff keys if they are loose.
16Clean the old gasket off the timing cover
and the cylinder block. Remove the oil seal
from the timing cover.2.4 & 2.9 litre engines
17Using the crankshaft damper centre bolt,
turn the engine until No 1 piston is at its firing
point (12°BTDC). This can be verified by
removing the distributor cap and checking that
the rotor arm is aligned with the No 1 HT lead
contact.
18Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
19Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove it
complete with air flow sensors and air hoses.
Remove the oil filler cap.
20Drain the cooling system, disconnect the
radiator upper hose from the thermostat housing.
21Disconnect the hose which runs between
the water pump and the expansion tank.
22Remove the radiator upper shroud, then
the radiator (see illustrations).
23Remove the fan from the water pump hub
noting that it has a left-hand thread.
24Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
timing cover/water pump hose stubs.
25Remove the alternator and power steering
pump drivebelts (as applicable)
26Unscrew the four bolts and remove the
crankshaft pulley.
27Lock the crankshaft by jamming the starter
ring gear teeth, and unscrew the vibration
damper centre bolt. Withdraw the damper
from the front of the crankshaft. A puller will be
required for this, preferably one which has two
screws for the tapped holes provided (see
illustrations).
28Using an engine support bar or hoist, take
the weight of the engine then unscrew the nuts
2C•10V6 engines
10.9 Heater connecting pipe clip bolts
(arrowed)
10.27a Unscrewing the vibration damper
centre bolt
10.22b Removing radiator upper shroud10.22c Manoeuvre the radiator out from
under the vehicle
10.27b Using a puller to withdraw the
vibration damper10.28a Using an engine support bar to
support the engine
10.13 Camshaft and crankshaft gear marks
in alignment (engine inverted)
Disregard the other mark on the crankshaft gear10.22a Radiator upper shroud plastic clip
and centre pin
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from the top of the engine mounting brackets
(see illustrations).
29Drain the engine oil, retaining it for further
use only if it is not contaminated or due for
renewal.
30Unbolt the coolant distribution pipe bracket
from the timing cover (see illustration).
31Disconnect the leads and remove the
starter motor.
32Ensure that the front roadwheels and the
steering wheels are in the straight-ahead
position, then remove the pinch-bolt from the
steering shaft coupling and slide the coupling
down the shaft (see illustration).
33Unscrew the sump retaining nuts and
bolts. The rear bolts can only be unscrewed
using a box spanner or thin-walled socket.
34Release the brake hydraulic lines from
their support brackets by pulling out their
retaining clips.
35Unscrew the two bolts from each of the
crossmember side brackets. Lower the
crossmember just enough to be able to
remove the sump. In practice, as the car is
standing on its roadwheels, the car body
should be raised by placing two axle stands
under the front jacking points (see
illustration).
36Extract the nine bolts and remove the
timing cover complete with water pump (see
illustration). Removal of the radiator grille will
provide better access to the cover bolts.
37Check that the crankshaft and camshaft
sprocket timing marks are aligned at the
nearest point to each other (see illustration).If not, turn the crankshaft as necessary.
38Unbolt and remove the timing chain
tensioner. Take care not to allow the spring-
loaded tensioner plunger to eject (see
illustration).
39Lock the camshaft sprocket by passing a
rod through one of the holes and unscrew the
sprocket retaining bolt (see illustration).
40Remove the camshaft sprocket then
release the chain from the crankshaft sprocket
and remove the camshaft sprocket and chain
from the engine.
41If required, the crankshaft sprocket, Woodruff
key and chain guide can now be also removed.
42Clean away all old pieces of gasket from
the cylinder block and timing cover flanges.
43Remove and discard the sump gasket.
The gasket rear tabs may break off, so pickthem out of the recesses in the rear main
bearing cap using a sharp, pointed knife.
Refer to Part A, Section 15 of this Chapter.
2.8 litre engine
1Remove the sump.
2Remove the two securing bolts and remove
the oil pump complete with pick-up and
strainer.
12Oil pump - removal
11Flywheel/driveplate and
adapter plate - removal
V6 engines 2C•11
2C
10.28b Engine mounting top nut10.30 Coolant distribution pipe bracket10.32 Steering shaft coupling pinch bolt
10.37 Timing sprocket alignment marks
(arrowed)
10.36 Removing a timing cover retaining
bolt10.35 Unscrewing crossmember side
bracket mounting bolts
10.38 Timing chain tensioner assembly10.39 Slackening camshaft sprocket
retaining bolt
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