1985 FORD GRANADA mileage

1•2
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months – whichever comes sooner
m mCheck operation of latches, check straps and locks; lubricate if
necessary (Section 19)
m mCheck condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt(s); adjust or
renew as necessary (Section 21)
m mCheck tightness of battery terminals, clean and neutralise
corrosion if necessary (Section 22)
m mCheck engine valve clearances (Section 23) m
mCheck tightness of inlet manifold bolts (V6 only) (Section 24) m
mRenew spark plugs (Section 20) m
mClean air conditioning condenser fins (when applicable)
(Section 25)
m mCheck air conditioning refrigerant charge (when applicable)
(Section 26)
m mCheck manual gearbox oil level (Section 18) m
mCheck final drive oil level (Section 27) m
mLubricate automatic transmission selector/kickdown linkage
(Section 28)
m mCheck security and condition of steering and suspension
components, gaiters and boots (Section 29)
m mCheck condition and security of driveshaft joints (Section 30) m
mInspect underbody and panels for corrosion or other damage
(Section 31)
m mInspect brake pipes and hoses (Section 32) m
mClean idle speed control linkage at throttle (when applicable)
(Section 33)
m mRoad test and check operation of ABS (Section 34)m
mCheck automatic transmission fluid level (engine hot)
(Section 17)
m mCheck engine for satisfactory hot starting (Section 37)m
mCheck that automatic choke is fully off with engine hot (not fuel-
injection models) (Section 36)
m mCheck power steering fluid level (when applicable) (Section 35)
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or
2 years - whichever comes sooner
m
mRenew air cleaner element (Section 38) m
mClean and inspect distributor cap, rotor arm, HT leads and coil
tower (Section 39)
m mAdjust automatic transmission brake bands (Section 40)m
mRenew fuel filter (fuel-injection models only) (Section 41) m
mRenew crankcase ventilation vent valve (carburettor models)
(Section 42)
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or
3 years - whichever comes sooner
m
mRenew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if necessary
(Section 43)
m mRenew brake hydraulic fluid (Section 44) m
mRenew camshaft drivebelt on SOHC models - recommended as
a precautionary measure (Section 45)
Every 2 years - regardless of mileage
m
mRenew coolant (Section 46)
Lubricants and fluidsComponent or systemLubricant type/specification
1 EngineMultigrade engine oil, viscosity range
SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50 to API SG/CD
or better
2 Cooling systemSoft water/antifreeze to Ford spec.
SSM 97B9103-A or SDM-M97B49-A
3 Manual transmission:
N9Semi-synthetic gear oil to Ford
spec. ESD M2C175-A (80 EP)
MT75Gear oil to Ford spec. ESD-
M2C186-A
4 Automatic transmissionATF to Ford spec. SQM-2C9010-A
(TQ Dexron II)
5 Final driveGear oil SAE 90EP to APIGL5
6 Brake hydraulic systemHydraulic fluid to Ford spec.
SAM- 6C9103-A
7 Power steeringATFto Ford spec. SQM-2C9010-A
(TQDexron II)
Maintenance Schedule
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1•6Maintenance Procedures
This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
The Chapter contains a master maintenance
schedule, followed by Sections dealing
specifically with each task in the schedule.
Visual checks, adjustments, component
renewal and other helpful items are included.
Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the
engine compartment and the underside of the
vehicle for the locations of the various
components.
Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.
As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the close proximity of two
otherwise-unrelated components to one
another. For example, if the vehicle is raised
for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected
at the same time as the suspension and
steering components.
The first step in this maintenanceprogramme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections relevant to the work to be carried out,
then make a list and gather together all the
parts and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist, or a dealer service department.
If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be kept
in relatively good running condition, and the
need for additional work will be minimised.
It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely if
a used vehicle, which has not received regular
and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test will provide valuable information regarding
the overall performance of the main internal
components. Such a test can be used as a
basis to decide on the extent of the work to be
carried out. If, for example, a compression test
indicates serious internal engine wear,
conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve theperformance of the engine, and may prove a
waste of time and money, unless extensive
overhaul work is carried out first.
The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:
Primary operations
a)Clean, inspect and test the battery
(Section 6)
b)Check all the engine-related fluids
(Section 3).
c)Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt (Section 21).
d)Renew the spark plugs (Section 20).
e)Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and
HT leads - as applicable (Chapter 5).
f)Check the condition of the air cleaner filter
element, and renew if necessary (Section 38).
g)Renew the fuel filter (Section 41).
h)Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks (Section 10).
i)Check the idle speed and mixture settings
- as applicable (Chapter 4).
If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary operations
a)Check the charging system (Chapter 5).
b)Check the ignition system (Chapter 5).
c)Check the fuel system (Chapter 4).
d)Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm -
as applicable (Chapter 5).
f)Renew the ignition HT leads - as
applicable (Chapter 5).
2Intensive maintenance
1Introduction
Engine oil
1Check the oil level as follows.
2With the vehicle parked on level ground,
and with the engine having been stopped for a
few minutes, open and prop the bonnet.
Withdraw the dipstick, wipe it on a clean ragand re-insert it fully. Withdraw it again and
read the oil level relative to the marks on the
end of the stick (see illustration).
3The oil level should be in between the MAX
and MIN marks on the dipstick. If it is at or
below the MIN mark, top-up (via the oil filler
cap) without delay. The quantity of oil required
to raise the lever from MIN to MAX on the
dipstick is approximately 1 litre. Do not overfill
(see illustration).
4The rate of oil consumption depends onleaks and on the quantity of oil burnt. External
leakage should be obvious. Oil which is burnt
may enter the combustion chambers through
the valve guides or past the piston rings;
excessive blow-by past the rings can also
force oil out via the crankcase ventilation
system. Driving conditions also affect oil
consumption.
5Always use the correct grade and type of oil
as shown in “Lubricants and fluids”.
Coolant
6Check the coolant level as follows.
7Open and prop the bonnet. Observe the
level of coolant through the translucent walls
of the expansion tank (on the right-hand side
of the engine bay). The level should be up to
the MAX mark when the engine is cold, and
may be somewhat above the mark when hot.
8If topping-up is necessary, wait for the
system to cool down if it is hot. Place a thick
rag over the expansion tank cap and slacken it
3Fluid level checks
3.2 Dipstick markings3.3 Topping up the engine oil
Warning: DO NOT remove the
expansion tank pressure cap
when the engine is hot, as there
is a great risk of scalding.
Weekly checks
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12Place a piece of wood in the caliper jaws
to limit piston travel. Keep your fingers clear of
the piston. Have the assistant depress the
brake pedal gentlyin order to move the
caliper piston out.
13With the pedal held depressed, slacken
the bleed screw on the right-hand caliper and
again depress the piston. Tighten the bleed
screw when the piston is retracted. The pedal
can now be released.
14Disconnect the bleed tube. Refit the right-hand brake pad and caliper.
15Remove the left-hand caliper and inboard
pad again. Carry out the operations described
in paragraphs 10 to 14 on the left-hand
caliper.
16Bleed the rear brakes as described in
Chapter 10.
17Refit the front wheels, lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts.
18Pump the brake pedal to bring the pads
up to the discs, then make a final check of thehydraulic fluid level. Top-up and refit the
reservoir cap.
Camshaft drivebelt renewal is
recommended as a precautionary measure.
Refer to Chapter 2, Part A, Sections 13 and 45
for the full renewal procedure.
45Camshaft drivebelt renewal -
SOHC engines
1Before proceeding, note the precautions
given in Chapter 3, Section 1.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the expansion tank cap. Take
precautions against scalding if the system is
hot.
4Place a drain pan of adequate capacity
beneath the radiator drain plug. Unscrew the
plug, without removing it, and allow the
coolant to drain (see illustration). On OHC
engines, release the hose clip and remove the
rubber cap from the bleed spigot on top of the
thermostat housing (see illustration). On V6
engines, remove the bleed screw (if fitted)
from the radiator top hose.
5Place another drain pan below the cylinder
block drain plug, which is located on the right-
hand side of the engine (except DOHC engine
which has no plug). Remove the drain plug
and allow the coolant to drain from the block.
6Dispose of the old coolant safely, or keep it
in a covered container if it is to be re-used.7Flushing should not be necessary unless
periodic renewal of the coolant has been
neglected, or unless plain water has been
used as coolant. In either case the coolant will
appear rusty and dark in colour. Flushing is
then required and should be carried out as
follows.
8Drain the system and disconnect the top
hose from the radiator. Insert a garden hose
into the radiator and run water into the radiator
until it flows clear from the drain plug.
9Run the hose into the expansion tank (OHC
engines) or into the radiator top hose (V6
engines) until clean water comes out of the
cylinder block drain plug. On DOHC engines
there is no drain plug in the cylinder block, so
the engine should be flushed until water runs
clear from the radiator bottom hose.
10If, after a reasonable period the water still
does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed
with a good proprietary cleaning agent.
11Flush the heater matrix by disconnecting
one of the heater hoses and running the hose
into that.
12In severe cases of contamination the
radiator should be removed, inverted andflushed in the reverse direction to normal flow,
ie with the water going in at the bottom and
out at the top. Shake the radiator gently while
doing this to dislodge any deposits.
13Refit any hoses which were disturbed,
making sure that they and their clips are in
good condition. Refit the cylinder block drain
plug and tighten the radiator drain plug.
14On OHC engines, make sure that the
bleed spigot cap is still removed (not DOHC).
On V6 engines, check, if applicable, that the
bleed screw is still removed.
15Pour coolant in through the expansion
tank filler hole until the level is up to the MAX
line.
16Refit the bleed spigot cap or screw when
coolant starts to emerge from the spigot.
Tighten the clip.
17Squeeze the radiator hoses to help
disperse airlocks. Top-up the coolant further if
necessary, then refit and tighten the expansion
tank cap.
18Run the engine up to operating
temperature, checking for coolant leaks. Stop
the engine and allow it to cool, then top-up the
coolant again to the MAX mark if necessary.
46Engine coolant renewal
1•20Every 2 years
46.4b Releasing the bleed spigot cap -
OHC engine46.4a Radiator drain plug (arrowed) -
OHC engine
Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)
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(1.0 in) either side of the spreader gap. Fit the
tapered lower compression ring with the TOP
mark towards the top of the piston and the gap
150°from the spreader gap, then fit the upper
compression ring with the gap 150°on the
other side of the spreader gap. Note that the
compression rings are coated with a
molybdenum skin which must not be damaged.
7Note that the compression rings are made
of cast iron, and will snap if expanded too far.
Examine the surface of the camshaft
journals and lobes and the cam followers for
wear. If excessive, considerable noise would
have been noticed from the top of the engine
and a new camshaft and followers must be
fitted.
Check the camshaft bearings for wear and if
necessary have them renewed by a Ford
garage.
Check the camshaft lubrication tube for
obstructions and make sure that the jet holes
are clear. Obstruction of the holes can be due
to sludge build-up which occurs when regular
oil changes have been neglected.
Examine the auxiliary shaft for wear and
damage and renew it if necessary.
If the auxiliary shaft endfloat is outside the
limits given in the Specifications fit a new
thrust plate. If this does not bring the endfloat
within limits, renew the shaft.
Whenever the timing belt is removed it is
worthwhile renewing it, especially if it has
covered a high mileage. This is more important
on the 2.0 litre engine where stripped teeth on
the timing belt can cause the pistons to foul
the valves.If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth, it should be renewed. The old ring can
be removed from the flywheel by cutting a
notch between two teeth with a hacksaw and
then splitting it with a cold chisel. Wear eye
protection when doing this.
To fit a new ring gear requires heating the
ring to 204°C (400°F). This can be done by
polishing four equal sections of the gear,
laying it on a suitable heat resistant surface
(such as fire bricks) and heating it evenly with
a blow lamp or torch until the polished areas
turn a light yellow tinge. Do not overheat or the
hard wearing properties will be lost. The gear
has a chamfered inner edge which should go
against the shoulder when put on the flywheel.
When hot enough place the gear in position
quickly, tapping it home if necessary and let it
cool naturally, without quenching.
1This operation will normally only be required
at comparatively high mileages. However, if
persistent pinking occurs and performance
has deteriorated even though the engine
adjustments are correct, decarbonising and
valve grinding may be required.
2With the cylinder head removed, use a
scraper to remove the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports. Remove all
traces of gasket from the cylinder head
surface, then wash it thoroughly with paraffin.
3Use a straight-edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head surface is not
distorted. If it is, it must be resurfaced by a
suitably equipped engineering works.
4If the engine is still in the car, clean the
piston crowns and cylinder bore upper edges,
but make sure that no carbon drops between
the pistons and bores. To do this, locate two
of the pistons at the top of their bores and seal
off the remaining bores with paper and
masking tape. Press a little grease between
the two pistons and their bores to collect any
carbon dust; this can be wiped away when the
piston is lowered.5Examine the heads of the valves for pitting
and burning, especially the exhaust valve
heads. Renew any valve which is badly burnt.
Examine the valve seats at the same time. If
the pitting is very slight, it can be removed by
grinding the valve heads and seats together
with coarse, then fine, grinding paste.
6Where excessive pitting has occurred, the
valve seats must be recut or renewed by a
suitably equipped engineering works.
7Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside down on a
bench on blocks of wood.
8Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste
on the seat face and press a suction grinding
tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary
action, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting
the valve occasionally to redistribute the
grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the
process with fine carborundum paste as
before. A light spring placed under the valve
head will greatly ease this operation. When a
smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish
is produced on both the valve and seat, the
grinding operation is complete.
9Scrape away all carbon from the valve head
and stem, and clean away all traces of
grinding compound. Clean the valves and
seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then wipe
with a clean rag.
10If the guides are worn they will need
reboring for oversize valves or for fitting guide
inserts. The valve seats will also need
recutting to ensure that they are concentric
with the stems. This work should be given to
your Ford dealer or local engineering works.
11If the valve springs have been in use
for 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or more, renew
them. Always renew the valve stem oil seals
when the valves are removed.
1To ensure maximum life with minimum
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it must
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be
clear, and locking washers and spring washers
must be fitted where indicated. Oil all bearings
and other working surfaces thoroughly with
engine oil during assembly.
2Before assembly begins, renew any bolts or
studs with damaged threads.
3Gather together a torque wrench, oil can,
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil
seals, together with a new oil filter.
4If they have been removed, new cylinder
head bolts and flywheel bolts will also be
required.
35Engine reassembly - general
information
34Cylinder head - decarbonising,
valve grinding and renovation
33Flywheel ring gear -
examination and renovation
32Timing belt - examination and
renovation
31Auxiliary shaft - examination
and renovation
30Camshaft and cam followers
- examination and renovation
2A•14SOHCengines
29.4a Checking a piston ring gap at the top
of the cylinder29.4b Checking a ring gap at the bottom of
the cylinder
To prevent carbon build-up,
polish the piston crown with
metal polish, but remove all
traces of the polish after.
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See Chapter 1, Section 23.
1Make a final check to ensure that everything
has been reconnected to the engine and that no
rags or tools have been left in the engine bay.
2Check that oil and coolant levels are
correct.
3Start the engine. This may take a little longer
than usual as fuel is pumped up to the engine.
4Check that the oil pressure light goes out
when the engine starts.
5Run the engine at a fast tickover and check
for leaks of oil, fuel and coolant. Also check
power steering and transmission fluid cooler
unions, when applicable. Some smoke and
odd smells may be experienced as assembly
lubricant burns off the exhaust manifold and
other components.6Bring the engine to operating temperature.
Check the ignition timing then adjust the idle
speed (if applicable) and mixture.
7Stop the engine and allow it to cool, then re-
check the oil and coolant levels.
8If new bearings, pistons etc have been
fitted, the engine should be run in at reduced
speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800
km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine
oil and filter after this mileage.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.
3Disable the ignition system by dismantlingthe coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
52Compression test -
description and interpretation
51Initial start-up after overhaul
or major repair
50Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment
2A•20SOHCengines
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d)Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover.
e)Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and the rotor arm and housing. If
necessary, mark the HT leads to aid
refitting.
2Proceed as described in paragraphs 2 to 15
inclusive of Section 18.
3Examine the surfaces of the camshaft
journals and lobes and the contact surfaces of
the cam followers for wear. If wear is
excessive, considerable noise would have
been noticed from the top of the engine when
running, and new camshafts and followers
must be fitted. It is unlikely that this level of
wear will occur unless a considerable mileage
has been covered. Note that the cam followers
cannot be dismantled for renewal of individual
components.
4Check the camshaft bearing surfaces in the
cylinder head and the bearing caps for wear. If
excessive wear is evident, the only course of
action available is to renew the cylinder head
complete with bearing caps.
5Check the cam follower bores in the
cylinder head for wear. If excessive wear is
evident, the cylinder head must be renewed.
6Check the cam follower oil grooves and the
oil ports in the cylinder head for obstructions.
7Refit the cam followers and the camshafts as
described in paragraphs 27 to 55 of Section 18.
8If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 1.
Refer to Part A, Section 15 of this Chapter,
noting the following points.
a)If the engine is in the car, refer to Chapter
6 when removing and refitting the clutch,
where applicable.
b)The flywheel/driveplate securing bolts
must be renewed on refitting; the new
bolts are supplied ready-coated with
thread-locking compound (see
illustration).
c)Check on the availability of new parts
before contemplating renewal of the ring
gear.Note: A suitable puller will be required to
remove the crankshaft pulley. A new
crankshaft pulley bolt and a new lower timing
chain cover gasket must be used on refitting.
1The crankshaft front oil seal is located in the
lower timing chain cover.
2If the engine is in the car, carry out the
following operations.
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b)To improve access, remove the radiator. It
will be difficult to remove the crankshaft
pulley with the radiator in place.
c)On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber, and air
cleaner lid as an assembly.
3Proceed as described in paragraphs 3 to 8
of Section 15.
4With the lower timing chain cover removed,
prise the old oil seal from the cover using a
screwdriver, and drive in the new seal using a
suitable metal tube. Make sure that the seal lip
faces into the engine. Take care not to
damage the timing chain cover. Note that the
seal should be fitted dry.
5Refit the lower timing chain cover as
described in paragraphs 32 to 40 of Section 15.
6If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
operations given in paragraph 2.
Note: New flywheel/driveplate bolts must be
used on refitting.
1Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
2Extract the seal using an oil seal removal tool
if available. It may also be possible to remove
the oil seal by drilling the outer face and using
self-tapping screws and a pair of grips.
3Clean the oil seal housing, then carefully
wind a thin layer of tape around the edge of
the crankshaft to protect the oil seal lip as the
seal is installed.
4Install a new oil seal. Make sure that the seal
lip faces into the engine (see illustration).5With the oil seal installed, carefully pull the
tape from the edge of the crankshaft.
6Refit the engine adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
Note: A new sump gasket will be required on
refitting, and suitable sealing compound will
be required to coat the sump and cylinder
block mating faces. Shims may be required
when mating the gearbox/transmission.
1Sump removal and refitting is far easier if
the engine is removed from the vehicle,
however if the engine is in the vehicle, proceed
as follows. If the engine has been removed
from the vehicle, proceed to paragraph 9.
2Remove the clutch or automatic
transmission, as applicable.
3Remove the flywheel/driveplate and the
engine adapter plate.
4Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
5Ensure that the steering wheel is positioned
in the straight-ahead position then, using a
dab of paint or a marker pen, make alignment
marks between the intermediate shaft lower
clamp and steering gear pinion. Slacken and
remove the lower clamp bolt then disconnect
the intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
6Attach a suitable hoist to the engine lifting
brackets located at the front and rear of the
cylinder head, and carefully take the weight of
the engine.
7Detach the brake lines from the front
suspension crossmember.
8Support the crossmember with a jack, then
loosen the bolts securing the crossmember to
the underbody. Remove the bolts and carefully
lower the crossmember sufficiently to allow
the sump to be removed.
9If the engine has been removed, it is
preferable to keep it upright until the sump has
been removed to prevent sludge from entering
the engine internals.
10Unscrew the sump securing nuts and
bolts, and withdraw the sump from the engine.
Do not prise between the mating faces of the
sump and cylinder block. Discard the old
gasket.
11Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the
cylinder block and sump.
12Commence refitting by locating a new
gasket in the grooves in the sump.
25Sump - removal and refitting
24Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
23Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
22Flywheel/driveplate - removal
inspection and refitting
DOHCengine 2B•15
2B
22.1 Improvised tool used to hold flywheel
when tightening securing bolts
24.4 Tool used to fit the oil seal
A Rear oil seal housing
B Special tool
A tool can be improvised using
a metal tube, a metal disc or
flat bar, and two flywheel
bolts.Draw the seal into
position using the two flywheel bolts.
If the sump is stuck, gently
tap it sideways to free it (the
sump will not move far
sideways, as it locates on
studs in the cylinder block).
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Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 5).
m mDistributor cap cracked or tracking internally (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine hesitates on acceleration
m
mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine stalls
m
mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mFuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Engine lacks power
m
mFuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m mUneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
m mBrakes binding (Chapters 1 and 10).
m mClutch slipping (Chapter 6).
Engine backfires
m
mVacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine
running
m mLow oil level, or incorrect oil grade (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty oil pressure sensor (Chapter 2).
m mWorn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).
m mExcessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
m mOil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2).
m mOil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2).
Note:Low oil pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not
necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far
more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender
before condemning the engine.
Engine runs-on after switching off
m mExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).
m mExcessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
Engine noises
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or
under load
m mIgnition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mIncorrect grade of spark plug (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leak at throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m mExcessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapter 2).
m mFuel injection system fault (Chapter 4).
Whistling or wheezing noises
m
mLeaking inlet manifold or throttle body gasket (Chapter 4).
m mLeaking exhaust manifold gasket (Chapter 4).
m mLeaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4 and 10).
m mBlowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
Tapping or rattling noises
m
mWorn valve gear, timing chain, camshaft or hydraulic tappets
(Chapter 2).
m mAncillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3,
5, etc).
Knocking or thumping noises
m mWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under
load) (Chapter 2).
m mWorn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load) (Chapter 2).
m mPiston slap (most noticeable when cold) (Chapter 2).
m mAncillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc) (Chapters 3,
5, etc).
REF•7Fault Finding
2Cooling system
Overheating
m
mAuxiliary drivebelt broken or incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1).
m mInsufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1).
m mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mRadiator core blocked, or grille restricted (Chapter 3).
m mElectric cooling fan or thermostatic switch faulty (Chapter 3).
m mViscous-coupled fan faulty (Chapter 3).
m mIgnition timing incorrect, or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m mInaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).
m mAirlock in cooling system (Chapter 3).
Overcooling
m
mThermostat faulty (Chapter 3).
m mInaccurate temperature gauge sender unit (Chapter 3).
External coolant leakage
m
mDeteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1).
m mRadiator core or heater matrix leaking (Chapter 3).
m mPressure cap faulty (Chapter 3).
m mWater pump internal seal leaking (Chapter 3).
m mWater pump-to-block seal leaking (Chapter 3).
m mBoiling due to overheating (Chapter 3).
m mCore plug leaking (Chapter 2).
Internal coolant leakage
m
mLeaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2).
m mCracked cylinder head or cylinder block (Chapter 2).
Corrosion
m
mInfrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect coolant mixture or inappropriate coolant type (Chapter 1).
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