1985 FORD GRANADA check engine

Chapter 2 Part A:
1.8 & 2.0 litre SOHC engines
Ancillary components - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Ancillary components - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Auxiliary shaft - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Auxiliary shaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Auxiliary shaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Camshaft and cam followers - examination and renovation . . . . . .30
Camshaft - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Camshaft - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .27
Crankshaft and main bearings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Cylinder block and bores - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .28
Cylinder head - decarbonising, valve grinding and renovation . . . .34
Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Cylinder head - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Cylinder head - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Engine and gearbox - reconnection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Engine - refitting without gearbox/transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49Engine - refitting with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Engine - removal leaving gearbox/transmission in vehicle . . . . . . . .5
Engine - removal with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine - separation from manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Flywheel/driveplate and adapter plate - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Flywheel ring gear - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . .2
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Methods of engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Oil filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Oil pump - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Oil pump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Oil pump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation . . . . . .29
Pistons and connecting rods - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Pistons and connecting rods - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Sump - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Sump - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Timing belt - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Timing belt and sprockets - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Timing belt and sprockets - removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Valve clearances - checking and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
General1.8 HC E 2.0 HC 2.0 HC EFi
Manufacturer’s code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REC NEL NRA
Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.20 (3.39) 90.82 (3.58) 90.82 (3.58)
Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.95 (3.03) 76.95 (3.03) 76.95 (3.03)
Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 (109.6) 1993 (121.6) 1993 (121.6)
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1 9.2:1 9.2:1
Compression pressure at cranking speed (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar (160 to 189 lbf/in
2)
Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 @ 5400 77 @ 5200 85 @ 5500
Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 @ 3500 157 @ 4000 160 @ 4000
Lubrication system
Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See“Lubricants and fluids”
Oil capacity (drain and refill, including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.75 litres (6.6 pints) approx
Oil pressure (SAE 10W/30 oil at 80°C/176°F):
At 750 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 bar
At 2000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5 bar
Oil pressure relief valve opening pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 to 4.7 bar
Oil pressure warning light switch setting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.3 to 0.5 bar
2A•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
2A
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The cylinder head is of crossflow design
with the inlet manifold mounted on the left-
hand side and the exhaust manifold mounted
on the right-hand side.
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the engine oil galleries where it
is distributed to the crankshaft, camshaft and
auxiliary shaft. The big-end bearings are
supplied with oil via internal drillings in the
crankshaft.The undersides of the pistons are
supplied with oil from drillings in the big-ends.
The distributor shaft is intermittently supplied
with oil from the drilled auxiliary shaft. The
camshaft and cam followers are supplied with
oil via a drilled spray tube from the centre
camshaft bearing.
A semi-closed crankcase ventilation system
is employed whereby piston blow-by gases
are drawn into the inlet manifold via an oil
separator and on carburettor models a control
valve.
The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine, although the
work may be easier and quicker with the
engine removed:
a)Removal and refitting of the cylinder head
b)Removal and refitting of the camshaft
(after removing the cylinder head)
c)Removal and refitting of the timing belt
and sprockets
d)Removal and refitting of the sump and oil
pump
e)Removal and refitting of the pistons,
connecting rods and big-end bearings
f)Renewal of the engine mountings
g)Renewal of the crankshaft oil seals
h)Removal and refitting of the auxiliary shaft
j)Removal and refitting of the flywheel
The engine must be removed from the
vehicle for the following operations:
a)Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
b)Removal and refitting of the crankshaft
The engine may be lifted out either on its
own or together with the gearbox. Unless work
is also necessary on the gearbox it is
recommended that the engine is removed on
its own. Where automatic transmission is
fitted, the engine should be removed on its
own owing to the additional weight. If the
engine and gearbox are removed together,
they will have to be tilted at a very steep angle;
make sure that the range of the lifting tackle is
adequate.1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3On carburettor models, remove the air
cleaner. On fuel-injection models, remove the
air cleaner cover, vane airflow meter and air
inlet trunking.
4If a splash guard is fitted, remove it.
5Release the securing clips and bolts and
remove the upper half of the fan shroud. On
carburettor models remove the lower half of
the shroud too.
6Drain the cooling system.
7Disconnect the radiator top and bottom
hoses from the thermostat housing and water
pump. Disconnect the top hose spur from the
expansion tank and unclip it.
8Disconnect the heater hoses from the water
pump and from the inlet manifold or automatic
choke housing. Unclip the hoses.
9On models with power steering, remove the
steering pump.
10Disconnect the vacuum pipe(s) from the
inlet manifold, labelling them if there is any
possibility of confusion.
11Disconnect the following wiring, as
applicable:
a)Alternator
b)Temperature gauge sender
c)Engine management temperature sensor
d)Distributor
e)Oil pressure switch
f)Automatic choke and thermo-switch
g)Carburettor stepper motor
h)Fuel-injection system sub-harness
j)Inlet manifold heater
12Disconnect the HT lead from the coil.
13If an oil level sensor is fitted, remove it
(see illustration).
14Unbolt the throttle cable bracket,
disconnect the inner cable and move the cable
and bracket aside. Also disconnect the
downshift cable on automatic transmission
models.
15On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel lines from the fuel pump (mechanised
type) and from the carburettor. Be prepared
for fuel spillage.
16On fuel-injection models, disconnect the
fuel supply union from the injector rail, and the
fuel return pipe from the fuel pressureregulator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and
for some spray if the supply side is still
under pressure.
17Unbolt the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold.
18On models with air conditioning, unbolt
the compressor and move it aside without
straining the flexible hoses.
19Remove the starter motor.
20Although not specified by the
manufacturers, the author advises that either
the radiator or the cooling fan be removed, to
reduce the risk of damage.
21Attach the lifting tackle to the two lifting
eyes on the engine, so that when suspended
the engine will be roughly horizontal. Take the
weight of the engine.
22Remove the single nut on each side which
secures each engine bearer to its mounting.
23Working under the vehicle, remove the
bracing strap which connects the engine and
transmission. Unbolt the adapter plate from
the bottom of the transmission bellhousing.
24On automatic transmission models, unbolt
the torque converter from the driveplate.
25Remove the engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
Note the location of the battery earth strap.
26Support the transmission, preferably with
a trolley jack.
27Check that nothing has been overlooked,
then raise the engine and draw it forwards
clear of the transmission input shaft. Do not
allow the weight of the engine to hang on the
shaft, and do not lift the transmission by it.
28On automatic transmission models, make
sure that the torque converter stays engaged
with the oil pump in the transmission as the
engine is withdrawn,
29Lift the engine out of the engine bay and
take it to the bench.
1Engine removal with automatic transmission
is not recommended.
2Proceed as in the previous Section,
paragraphs 1 to 18.
3Disconnect the wiring from the starter
motor, and release the battery earth cable
from its bellhousing bolt.
4Remove the radiator.
5Remove the propeller shaft.
6Disconnect and unclip the reversing light
switch and speedometer sender unit wiring.
7Disconnect the clutch cable.
8Unbolt the anti-roll bar mounting brackets
and lower the anti-roll bar as far as possible.
9From inside the vehicle remove the gear
lever.
10Drain the engine oil.
11Unhook the exhaust system from its
mounting on the gearbox crossmember. Either
support the system or remove it completely.
12Support the gearbox, preferably with a
trolley jack, then unbolt and remove the
gearbox crossmember. Note the earth strap (if
fitted) under one of the crossmember bolts.
13Attach lifting tackle to the two lifting eyes
on the engine so that when suspended it will
be at an angle of approximately 45°.
6Engine - removal with manual
gearbox
5Engine - removal leaving
gearbox/transmission in vehicle
4Methods of engine removal
3Major operations requiring
engine removal
2Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
SOHCengines 2A•5
2A
5.13 Oil level sensor
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1Remove the timing belt and the crankshaft
sprocket (only).
2If an oil seal removal tool is available. the oil
seal can be removed at this stage. It may also
be possible to remove the oil seal by drilling
the outer face and using self-tapping screws
and a pair of grips.
3If the oil seal cannot be removed as
described in paragraph 2, remove the sump.
Also remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket.
Unbolt the oil seal housing and auxiliary shaft
front cover and remove the gasket. The oil seal
can then be driven out from the inside (see
illustrations).
4Clean the oil seal seating, then drive in a
new seal using metal tubing or a suitable
socket (see illustration). Make sure that thesealing lip faces into the engine, and lightly oil
the lip.
5If applicable fit the oil seal housing and
auxiliary shaft front cover to the block together
with a new gasket and tighten the bolts. Make
sure that the bottom face of the housing is
aligned with the bottom face of the block (see
illustrations). Fit the sump.
6Refit the timing belt and sprockets.
1Remove the flywheel or driveplate and the
engine adapter plate (backplate).
2Using a special removal tool extract the oil
seal (see illustration).However it may be
possible to remove the oil seal by drilling the
outer face and using self-tapping screws and
a pair of grips.3Clean the oil seal seating, then drive in a
new seal using a suitable metal tube. Make
sure that the sealing lip faces into the engine,
and lightly oil the lip.
4Refit the adapter plate and the
flywheel/driveplate.
1Remove the sump.
2Unscrew the bolt securing the pick-up tube
and strainer to the block (see illustration).
3Using a special splined key, unscrew the
bolts and withdraw the oil pump and strainer
(see illustration).
4Withdraw the hexagon shaped driveshaft
which engages the bottom of the distributor,
noting which way round it is fitted (see
illustration).
19Oil pump - removal
18Crankshaft rear oil seal -
renewal
17Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
2A•10SOHCengines
17.3a Removing the crankshaft front oil
seal housing
19.2 Unbolting the oil pump pick-up
strainer from the block19.3 Removing the splined bolts which
secure the oil pump19.4 Removing the oil pump driveshaft
18.2 Using an oil seal removal tool to
extract the crankshaft rear oil seal
17.3b Driving the oil seal out of the housing
17.5a Oil seal housing and auxiliary shaft
cover gasket in position17.5b Checking the alignment of the front
oil seal housing
17.4 Using a socket and a hammer to seat
the new seal
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See Chapter 1, Section 8.
1Remove the sump and cylinder head.
2Check the big-end caps for identification
marks and if necessary use a centre-punch to
identify the caps and connecting rods (see
illustration).
3Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 crankpin is
at its lowest point, then unscrew the nuts and
tap off the cap. Keep the bearing shells in the
cap and connecting rod.4Using the handle of a hammer, push the
piston and connecting rod up the bore and
withdraw from the top of the cylinder block.
Loosely refit the cap to the connecting rod
(see illustration).
5Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 3 and 4
on the No 4 piston and connecting rod, then
turn the crankshaft through half a turn and
repeat the procedure on Nos 2 and 3 pistons
and connecting rods.
1With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the pistons and connecting rods as
described in the previous Section. (In fact it is
not necessary to push the pistons out of the
bores if no work is to be done on them.)2Remove the timing belt and crankshaft
sprocket, and the flywheel or driveplate. Also
remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket.
3Unbolt the crankshaft front oil seal housing
and auxiliary shaft front cover and remove the
gasket.
4Remove the oil pump and strainer.
5Check the main bearing caps for
identification marks and if necessary use a
centre-punch to identify them (see
illustration).
6Before removing the crankshaft check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits by
inserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and the thrustwashers (see
illustration). This will indicate whether new
thrustwashers are required or not.
7Unscrew the bolts and tap off the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells
(see illustration). If the thrustwashers are to
be re-used identify them for location.
8Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and
remove the rear oil seal. Remove the
remaining thrustwashers (see illustrations).
9Extract the bearing shells keeping them
identified for location (see illustration).
1Unscrew the two nuts which secure the
engine bearers to the tops of the mountings.
Recover the washers(see illustration).
2Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
Remove the two nuts which secure the
23Engine mountings - renewal
22Crankshaft and main
bearings - removal
21Pistons and connecting rods
- removal
20Oil filter - renewal
SOHCengines 2A•11
2A
21.2 Big-end cap and connecting rod
identification numbers21.4 Piston, connecting rod, cap and
bearing shells22.5 Main bearing cap identification marks
The arrow points to the front of the engine
22.8a Removing the crankshaft
22.6 Checking crankshaft endfloat
22.8b Removing a thrustwasher from the
centre main bearing
22.7 Removing the rear main bearing cap
22.9 Removing the centre main bearing
shell
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mountings to the front crossmember. Recover
the washers.
3Raise the engine with a hoist or a suitable
protected jack until the mountings are free,
then remove them.
4Fit the new mountings and lower the engine
onto them.
5Fit the nuts and washers and tighten the
nuts.
6Lower the vehicle.
Carburettor models
The crankcase ventilation system consists
of the special oil filter cap (containing a steel
wool filter) and an oil separator and vent valve
on the left-hand side of the engine. This is
connected by hose to the inlet manifold. The
system operates according to the vacuum in
the inlet manifold. Air is drawn through the
filler cap, through the crankcase, and then
together with piston blow-by gasses through
the oil separator and vent valve to the inlet
manifold. The blow-by gases are then drawn
into the engine together with the fuel/air
mixture. Refer to Chapter 1 for maintenance of
the system.
Fuel-injection models
This system is closed, consisting of an oilseparator on the left-hand side of the engine
and a hose connecting it to the inlet air
trunking. Because the trunking is not subject
to manifold vacuum, no vent valve is needed.
1With the engine completely stripped, clean
all the components and examine them for
wear. Each part should be checked, and
where necessary renewed or renovated as
described in the following Sections. Renew
main and big end shell bearings as a matter of
course, unless you know that they have had
little wear and are in perfect condition.
2If in doubt as to whether to renew a
component which is still just serviceable,
consider the time and effort which will be
incurred should it fail at an early date.
Obviously the age and expected life of the
vehicle must influence the standards applied.
3Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel and
cylinder head bolts must be renewed because
of the high stresses to which they are
subjected.
4Take the opportunity to renew the engine
core plugs while they are easily accessible.
Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and
chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smear
the new plugs with sealant and tap them
squarely into position.1Unscrew the bolts and remove the oil pump
cover (see illustration).
2Using feeler blades check that the rotor
clearances are within the limits given in
Specifications (see illustrations). If not,
unbolt the pick-up tube and strainer and
obtain a new unit (see illustration).Fit the
pick-up tube and strainer to the new pump
using a new gasket, and tighten the bolts.
3If the oil pump is serviceable refit the cover
and tighten the bolts.
1Examine the bearing surfaces of the
crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using
a micrometer, check each journal and
crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be
in excess of 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) the
crankshaft will have to be reground and
undersize bearings fitted.
2Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out
by a suitable engineering works, who will
normally supply the matching undersize main
and big-end shell bearings.
27Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
26Oil pump - examination and
renovation
25Examination and renovation -
general information
24Crankcase ventilation system -
general information
2A•12SOHCengines
23.1 An engine mounting
26.2b Checking the inner-to-outer rotor
clearance26.2c Checking the oil pump rotor endfloat
26.2d Exploded view of the oil pump
A Body
B Outer rotor
C Inner rotor
D CoverE Strainer
F Pick-up tube
G Gasket
H Relief valve
26.1 Removing the oil pump cover26.2a Checking the outer rotor-to-housing
clearance
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3Note that undersize bearings may already
have been fitted, either in production or by a
previous repairer. Check the markings on the
backs of the old bearing shells, and if in doubt
take them along when buying new ones(see
illustrations).Production undersizes are also
indicated by paint marks as follows:
White line on main bearing cap - parent bore
0.40 mm oversize
Green line on crankshaft front counterweight
- main bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize
Green spot on counterweight - big-end
bearing journals 0.25 mm undersize
4If the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
maximum specified amount, new
thrustwashers should be fitted to the centre
main bearings. These are usually supplied
together with the main and big-end bearings
on a reground crankshaft.
5An accurate method of determining bearing
wear is by the use of Plastigage. The
crankshaft is located in the main bearings (and
big-end bearings if necessary) and the
Plastigage filament located across the journal
which must be dry. The cap is then fitted and
the bolts/nuts tightened to the specified
torque. On removal of the cap the width of the
filaments is checked against a scale which
shows the bearing running clearance. This
clearance is then compared with that given in
the Specifications (see illustration).
6If the spigot bearing in the rear of the
crankshaft requires renewal extract it with a
suitable puller. Alternatively fill it with heavygrease and use a close fitting metal dowel
driven into the centre of the bearing. Drive the
new bearing into the crankshaft with a soft
metal drift.
1The cylinder bores must be examined for
taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by
examining the top of the bores; if these are
worn, a slight ridge will be found which marks
the top of the piston ring travel. If the wear is
excessive, the engine will have had a high oil
consumption rate accompanied by blue
smoke from the exhaust.
2If available, use an inside dial gauge to
measure the bore diameter just below the
ridge and compare it with the diameter at the
bottom of the bore, which is not subject to
wear. If the difference is more than 0.152 mm
(0.006 in), the cylinders will normally require
reboring with new oversize pistons fitted.
3Proprietary oil control rings can be obtained
for fitting to the existing pistons if it is felt that
the degree of wear does not justify a rebore.
However, any improvement brought about by
such rings may be short-lived.
4If new pistons or piston rings are to be fitted
to old bores, deglaze the bores with abrasive
paper or a “glaze buster” tool. The object is to
produce a light cross-hatch pattern to assist
the new rings to bed in. 5If there is a ridge at the top of the bore and
new piston rings are being fitted, either the top
piston ring must be stepped (“ridge dodger”
pattern) or the ridge must be removed with a
ridge reamer. If the ridge is left, the piston ring
may hit it and break.
6Thoroughly examine the crankcase and
cylinder block for cracks and damage and use
a piece of wire to probe all oilways and
waterways to ensure that they are
unobstructed.
1Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring and
scratches. Check the connecting rods for wear
and damage. The connecting rods carry a
letter indicating their weight class; all the rods
fitted to one engine must be of the same class
(see illustration).
2The gudgeon pins are an interference fit in
the connecting rods, and if new pistons are to
be fitted to the existing connecting rods the
work should be carried out by a Ford garage
who will have the necessary tooling. Note that
the oil splash hole on the connecting rod must
be located on the right-hand side of the piston
(the arrow on the piston crown faces forwards)
(see illustration).
3If new rings are to be fitted to the existing
pistons, expand the old rings over the top of
the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler
blades will be helpful in preventing the rings
dropping into empty grooves. Note that the oil
control ring is in three sections.
4Before fitting the new rings to the pistons,
insert them into the cylinder bore and use a
feeler blade to check that the end gaps are
within the specified limits (see illustrations).
5Clean out the piston ring grooves using a
piece of old piston ring as a scraper. Be
careful not to scratch the aluminium surface of
the pistons. Protect your fingers - piston ring
edges are sharp. Also probe the groove oil
return holes.
6Fit the oil control ring sections with the
spreader ends abutted opposite the front of the
piston. The side ring gaps should be 25 mm
29Pistons and connecting rods
- examination and renovation
28Cylinder block and bores -
examination and renovation
SOHCengines 2A•13
2A
27.3a Undersize crankshaft bearings are
indicated by a spot and/or line on the front
counterweight27.3b Main bearing cap marks (arrowed)
denote oversize parent bore27.5 Checking the width of the Plastigage
filament against the scale on the packet
29.1 Weight class mark (arrowed) on
connecting rod29.2 Relationship of piston crown arrow and
connecting rod oil splash hole (arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

(1.0 in) either side of the spreader gap. Fit the
tapered lower compression ring with the TOP
mark towards the top of the piston and the gap
150°from the spreader gap, then fit the upper
compression ring with the gap 150°on the
other side of the spreader gap. Note that the
compression rings are coated with a
molybdenum skin which must not be damaged.
7Note that the compression rings are made
of cast iron, and will snap if expanded too far.
Examine the surface of the camshaft
journals and lobes and the cam followers for
wear. If excessive, considerable noise would
have been noticed from the top of the engine
and a new camshaft and followers must be
fitted.
Check the camshaft bearings for wear and if
necessary have them renewed by a Ford
garage.
Check the camshaft lubrication tube for
obstructions and make sure that the jet holes
are clear. Obstruction of the holes can be due
to sludge build-up which occurs when regular
oil changes have been neglected.
Examine the auxiliary shaft for wear and
damage and renew it if necessary.
If the auxiliary shaft endfloat is outside the
limits given in the Specifications fit a new
thrust plate. If this does not bring the endfloat
within limits, renew the shaft.
Whenever the timing belt is removed it is
worthwhile renewing it, especially if it has
covered a high mileage. This is more important
on the 2.0 litre engine where stripped teeth on
the timing belt can cause the pistons to foul
the valves.If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth, it should be renewed. The old ring can
be removed from the flywheel by cutting a
notch between two teeth with a hacksaw and
then splitting it with a cold chisel. Wear eye
protection when doing this.
To fit a new ring gear requires heating the
ring to 204°C (400°F). This can be done by
polishing four equal sections of the gear,
laying it on a suitable heat resistant surface
(such as fire bricks) and heating it evenly with
a blow lamp or torch until the polished areas
turn a light yellow tinge. Do not overheat or the
hard wearing properties will be lost. The gear
has a chamfered inner edge which should go
against the shoulder when put on the flywheel.
When hot enough place the gear in position
quickly, tapping it home if necessary and let it
cool naturally, without quenching.
1This operation will normally only be required
at comparatively high mileages. However, if
persistent pinking occurs and performance
has deteriorated even though the engine
adjustments are correct, decarbonising and
valve grinding may be required.
2With the cylinder head removed, use a
scraper to remove the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports. Remove all
traces of gasket from the cylinder head
surface, then wash it thoroughly with paraffin.
3Use a straight-edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head surface is not
distorted. If it is, it must be resurfaced by a
suitably equipped engineering works.
4If the engine is still in the car, clean the
piston crowns and cylinder bore upper edges,
but make sure that no carbon drops between
the pistons and bores. To do this, locate two
of the pistons at the top of their bores and seal
off the remaining bores with paper and
masking tape. Press a little grease between
the two pistons and their bores to collect any
carbon dust; this can be wiped away when the
piston is lowered.5Examine the heads of the valves for pitting
and burning, especially the exhaust valve
heads. Renew any valve which is badly burnt.
Examine the valve seats at the same time. If
the pitting is very slight, it can be removed by
grinding the valve heads and seats together
with coarse, then fine, grinding paste.
6Where excessive pitting has occurred, the
valve seats must be recut or renewed by a
suitably equipped engineering works.
7Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside down on a
bench on blocks of wood.
8Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste
on the seat face and press a suction grinding
tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary
action, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting
the valve occasionally to redistribute the
grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface
is produced on both the valve seat and the
valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the
process with fine carborundum paste as
before. A light spring placed under the valve
head will greatly ease this operation. When a
smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish
is produced on both the valve and seat, the
grinding operation is complete.
9Scrape away all carbon from the valve head
and stem, and clean away all traces of
grinding compound. Clean the valves and
seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then wipe
with a clean rag.
10If the guides are worn they will need
reboring for oversize valves or for fitting guide
inserts. The valve seats will also need
recutting to ensure that they are concentric
with the stems. This work should be given to
your Ford dealer or local engineering works.
11If the valve springs have been in use
for 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or more, renew
them. Always renew the valve stem oil seals
when the valves are removed.
1To ensure maximum life with minimum
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it must
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be
clear, and locking washers and spring washers
must be fitted where indicated. Oil all bearings
and other working surfaces thoroughly with
engine oil during assembly.
2Before assembly begins, renew any bolts or
studs with damaged threads.
3Gather together a torque wrench, oil can,
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil
seals, together with a new oil filter.
4If they have been removed, new cylinder
head bolts and flywheel bolts will also be
required.
35Engine reassembly - general
information
34Cylinder head - decarbonising,
valve grinding and renovation
33Flywheel ring gear -
examination and renovation
32Timing belt - examination and
renovation
31Auxiliary shaft - examination
and renovation
30Camshaft and cam followers
- examination and renovation
2A•14SOHCengines
29.4a Checking a piston ring gap at the top
of the cylinder29.4b Checking a ring gap at the bottom of
the cylinder
To prevent carbon build-up,
polish the piston crown with
metal polish, but remove all
traces of the polish after.
procarmanuals.com

1Wipe the bearing shell locations in the
crankcase with a soft, non-fluffy rag.
2Wipe the crankshaft journals with a soft,
non-fluffy rag.
3Fit the five upper half main bearing shells to
their locations in the crankcase. If the old
shells are being re-used, make sure they are
refitted to their old locations.
4Identify each main bearing cap and place in
order. The number is cast onto the cap and on
intermediate caps an arrow is also marked
which should point towards front of engine.
5Wipe the cap bearing shell location with a
soft non-fluffy rag.
6Fit the bearing half shell onto each main
bearing cap.
7Apply a little grease to each side of the
centre main bearing so as to retain the
thrustwasher.
8Fit the upper halves of the thrustwashers
into their grooves either side of the main
bearing. The slots must face outwards.
9Lubricate the crankshaft journals and the
upper and lower main bearing shells with
engine oil and locate the rear oil seal (with lip
lubricated) on the rear of the crankshaft.
10Carefully lower the crankshaft into the
crankcase.
11Lubricate the crankshaft main bearing
journals again and then fit No 1 bearing cap. Fit
the two securing bolts but do not tighten yet.12Make sure that the mating faces are clean,
then apply sealant (Loctite 518 or equivalent)
to the areas on the rear main bearing cap (see
illustration).
13Fit the rear main bearing cap. Fit the two
securing bolts, but as before do not tighten yet.
14Apply a little grease to either side of the
centre main bearing cap so as to retain the
thrustwashers. Fit the thrustwashers with the
tag located in the groove and the slots facing
outwards (see illustration).
15Fit the centre main bearing cap and the
two securing bolts, then refit the intermediate
main bearing caps. Make sure that the arrows
point towards the front of the engine.
16Lightly tighten all main cap securing bolts
and then fully tighten in a progressive manner
to the specified torque wrench setting.
17Check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
Some stiffness is to be expected with new
components, but there must be no tight spots
or binding.
18Check that the crankshaft endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
19Make sure that the rear oil seal is fully
located onto its seating. Coat the rear main
bearing cap wedges with sealing compound,
then press them into position with the rounded
red face towards the cap (see illustration).
20Refit the oil pump and strainer.
21Refit the crankshaft front oil seal housing,
and auxiliary shaft front cover, if applicable,
together with a new gasket and tighten the bolts.Make sure that the bottom face of the housing is
aligned with the bottom face of the block.
22Refit the flywheel or driveplate and the
pistons and connecting rods.
23Refit the timing belt and sprockets.
1Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
the recesses in the connecting rods and big-
end caps.
2Press the bearing shells into the connecting
rods and caps in their correct positions and oil
them liberally. Note that the lugs must be
adjacent to each other (see illustration).
3Lubricate the cylinder bores with engine oil.
4Fit a ring compressor to No 1 piston, then
insert the piston and connecting rod into No 1
cylinder. With No 1 crankpin at its lowest
point, drive the piston carefully into the
cylinder with the wooden handle of a hammer,
and at the same time guide the connecting rod
onto the crankpin. Make sure that the arrow on
the piston crown is facing the front of the
engine (see illustrations).
5Oil the crankpin, then fit the big-end bearing
cap in its previously noted position. Oil the
big-end bearing cap nuts, fit the nuts and
tighten them to the specified torque.
6Check that the crankshaft turns freely.
7Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs 4
to 6 inclusive on the remaining pistons.
8Refit the cylinder head and sump.
37Pistons and connecting rods
- refitting
36Crankshaft and main
bearings - refitting
SOHCengines 2A•15
2A
36.12 Apply sealant to the rear main
bearing cap areas shown darkened36.14 Fitting a thrust washer to the centre
main bearing cap36.19 Fitting a sealing wedge to the rear
main bearing cap
37.2 Big-end bearing shell lugs (arrowed)
are adjacent37.4a Fitting a piston ring compressor37.4b Piston crown markings
Arrow points to front of engine
procarmanuals.com