13. Remove the seal pilot. Install front seal dust shield.
14. Raise the vehicle.
15. Install the crankshaft damper and speed indicator ring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - INSTALLATION). Torque bolts to 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.), plus an additional 60°.
16. Install the lower fan shroud bracket. Torque bolts to 24 Nꞏm (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
17. Install the upper fan shroud brackets. Hand tighten only.
18. Lower vehicle.
19. Install the fan support/hub assembly and tighten bolts to 32 Nꞏm (24 ft.lbs.) torque.
20. Install the power steering pump.
21. Install the accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque bolt to 43 Nꞏm (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
22. Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
23. Install the upper cooling fan/drive/shroud assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTAL-
LATION).
24. Torque the upper fan shroud brackets to 24 Nꞏm (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
25. Connect the coolant recovery bottle hose to the radiator filler neck.
26. Install the radiator upper hose and clamps.
27. Add engine oil.
28. Add coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
29. Connect the battery cables.
30. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
COVER - TIMING
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect both battery negative cables.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Partially drain engine coolant into container suitable for re-use (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
4. Lower vehicle.
5. Remove radiator upper hose.
6. Remove viscous fan/drive/shroud assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
7. Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
8. Remove the cooling fan support/hub from the front of the engine.
9. Raise the vehicle on hoist.
10. Remove power steering pump.
11. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
12. Remove the crankshaft damper and speed indicator ring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL).
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Remove the gear cover-to-housing bolts and gently pry the cover away from the housing, taking care not to mar
the gasket surfaces.
INSTALLATION
1. Install a new front crankshaft oil seal.
2. Obtain a seal pilot (1) installation tool from a crank-
shaft front seal service kit and install the pilot into
the seal.
3. Apply a bead of Mopar
Silicone Rubber Adhesive
Sealant or equivalent to the gear housing cover. Be
sure to surround all through holes.
4. Using the seal pilot to (1) align the cover , install
the cover to the housing and install the bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 24 Nꞏm (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
5. Remove the seal pilot. Install front seal dust shield.
6. Raise the vehicle.
7. Install the speed indicator ring and the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - INSTALLATION).
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Install the fan support/hub assy, and tighten bolts to 32 Nꞏm (24 ft. lbs.) torque.
10. Install power steering pump.
11. Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque bolt to 43 Nꞏm (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
12. Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
13. Install the cooling fan/drive/shroud assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
14. Install the radiator upper hose and clamps.
15. Add coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
16. Connect the battery cables.
17. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT
CRANK1. Weak or discharged battery. 1. Charge or replace battery as necessary.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY
SYSTEM - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
Check charging system. Refer to the
appropriate Diagnostic Information for
charging system diagnosis.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean/tighten battery/starter connections.
3. Faulty starter or related circuits. 3. Check starting system. (Refer to8-
ELECTRICAL/STARTING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
4. Seized accessory drive
component.4. Remove accessory drive belt and
attempt to start engine. If engine cranks,
repair/replace seized component.
5. Engine internal mechanical failure
or hydrostatic lock.5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD
PROCEDURE - HYDROSTATIC LOCKED
ENGINE).
ENGINE CRANKS BUT
WILL NOT START1. No spark. 1. Check for spark. Refer to the appropriate
Diagnostic Information for ignition system
diagnosis.
2. No fuel. 2. Perform fuel pressure test. Refer to the
appropriate Diagnostic Information for fuel
system diagnosis.
3. Low or no engine compression. 3. Perform cylinder compression test.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING - CYLINDER COMPRESSION
PRESSURE TEST).
ENGINE LOSS OF
POWER1. Worn or incorrect gapped spark
plugs.1. Replace spark plugs or set gap.
2. Dirt or water in fuel system. 2. Clean system and replace fuel filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump. 3. Replace fuel pump.
4. Incorrect valve timing. 4. Correct valve timing.
5. Blown cylinder head gasket(s). 5. Replace cylinder head gasket(s).
6. Low compression. 6. Test cylinder compression. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING -
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE
TEST)
7. Burned, warped, or pitted valves. 7. Install new or reface valves as
necessary.
8. Plugged or restricted exhaust. 8. Replace parts as necessary.
9. Faulty ignition cables. 9. Replace ignition cables as necessary.
10. Faulty coil(s). 10. Test and replace as necessary.
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION OR
SPARK PLUGS OIL
FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check and repair PCV system as
necessary.
2. Defective valve stem seal(s). 2. Repair or replace seal(s).
3. Worn or broken piston rings. 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings.
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls. 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace pistons
as necessary.
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove. 5. Remove rings and de-carbon piston.
6. Worn valve guides. 6. Ream and install new valves with
oversize stems.
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves.7. Remove piston rings. Check ring end
gap and side clearance. Replace as
necessary.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compressionpressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.
Ensurethebatteryiscompletelychargedandtheenginestartermotorisingood operating condition. Otherwise the
indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
1. Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
2. Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Select a route free from traffic and other
forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws, and accelerate through thegears several times briskly.
3. Remove the Auto Shut Down (ASD) relay from the Power Distribution Center(PDC).
4. Disconnect ignition cables from spark plugs.
5. Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnormal firing
indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cylinder number of spark plug for future reference.
6. Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the compression check.
7. Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool 8116 or the equivalent, into the No. 1 spark plug hole in cylinder
head. Connect the 0-500 psi (Blue) pressure transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adaptors to the scan
tool. For Special Tool identification, (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
8. Crank engine until maximum pressure is reached on gauge. Record this pressure as No. 1 cylinder pressure.
9. Repeat the previous step for all remaining cylinders.
10. Compression should not be less than 689 kPa (100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder to
cylinder.
11. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
12. If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it could
indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question.The recommended compression pressures
are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be disassembled
to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.
CYLINDER COMBUSTIONPRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.
WARNING: Do not remove the cooling system pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure
because serious burns from coolant can occur.
1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the pressurecap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair as necessary.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.
5.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method
as follows:
1. Disconnect the PCV hoses at the cylinder head covers and plug or cap the outlet on the covers.
2. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
3. Gradually apply air pressure from 6.89 kPa (1 psi) to 17.23 kPa (2.5 psi) maximum while applying soapy water
at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
4. If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply. Remove the air hose, allplugs, and caps. Connect the PCV
hoses. Proceed to next step.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube to oil pan location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using Mopar
Stud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube applications only), and for O-ring style tubes, remove
tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove clutch housing inspection cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check
for the oil leak. If a leak is present in this area, remove transmission for further inspection.
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup plug or rear
crankshaft seal retainer gasket leak. See proper repair procedures for these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, replace component(s) as
necessary.
material also will prevent corrosion. MoparGasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4 oz./16 oz. can
w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER APPLICATION
MoparGasket Maker material should be applied sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant to one
gasket surface. Be certain the material surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off.
Components should be torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel is recommended during
assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.
Mopar
Engine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 3
mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing,a3.17mmor6.35mm(1/8in.
or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a shop
towel. Components should be torqued in place while the sealant is still wettothetouch(within10minutes).The
usage of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.
Mopar
Gasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely over both
surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a can w/applicator can
be brushed on evenly over the sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can shouldbeusedonengineswithmulti-
layer steel gaskets.
ENGINE GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface prep-
aration must be performed, especially with the use of
aluminum engine components and multi-layer steel
cylinder head gaskets.
Neveruse the following to clean gasket surfaces:
Metal scraper
Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block
and head
High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a
wire brush (1)
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets
require a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
Plastic or wood scraper (3)
Drill motor with 3M Roloc™ Bristle Disc (white or yellow) (2)
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond the recommended speed), can damage the sealing sur-
faces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80 grit) bris-
tle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces with care.
HYDROSTATIC LOCKED ENGINE
When an engine is suspected to be hydrostatically locked, regardless of what caused the problem, the following
steps should be used.
CAUTION: DO NOT use starter motor to rotate the engine, severe damage may occur.
1. Inspect air cleaner, induction system and intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of foreign material.
2. Remove negative battery cable.
3. Place a shop towel around the spark plugs when removing them from the engine. This will catch any fluid that
may possibly be in the cylinder under pressure.
4. With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
5. Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., coolant, fuel, oil or other).
6. Make sure all fluid has been removed from the cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting rods, pis-
tons, valves, etc.)
7. Repair engine or components as necessary to prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil into the cylinders, rotateenginetolubricatethecylin-
der walls to prevent damage on restart.
8. Install new spark plugs.
9. Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
10. Fill engine with specified amount of approved oil and install new oil filter.
11. Connect negative battery cable.
12. Start engine and check for any leaks.
REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
1. Perform fuel pressure release procedure (Refer to
14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Disconnect throttle body air inlet duct, remove air
cleaner cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR INTAKE
SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER ELEMENT - REMOVAL).
4. Raise and support the vehicle.
5. Remove the lower engine shield.
6. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING
COOLING SYSTEM).
7. Paint mark and remove the driveshaft (Refer to 3 -
DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER
SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL).
8.Removethetransmission(Referto21-TRANS-
MISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL - REMOVAL).
9. Remove the starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
10. Disconnect the front exhaust pipe flange to
exhaust manifold fasteners (1 and 2).
11. Disconnect the hydraulic cooling fan lines and capture any spillage (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
FA N - R E M O VA L ) .
12. Drain engine oil and remove the oil filter.
13. Separate the air conditioning hose from the fan shroud.
14. Disconnect the lower radiator hose.
15. Disconnect the power steering line support bracket at the lower left ofthe radiator.
16. Loosen both engine mount through bolts.
30. Connect oil cooler lines (4) and connect the oil
pressure sensor (1) and oil temperature sensor
(5).
31. Install the power steering line support bracket at
the radiator.
32. Install lower radiator hose.
33. Connect the cooling fan hydraulic lines (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTAL-
LATION).
34. Connect the A/C line to the fan shroud.
35. Install under body shield.
36. Lower vehicle.
37. Fill engine crankcase with the proper oil to the
correct level (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTE-
NANCE/FLUID TYPES - SPECIFICATIONS).
38. Evacuate and recharge the air conditioning (Refer
to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMB-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
39. Fill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
40. Fill power steering to proper leveland purge the system (Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
41. Connect the negative battery cable.
42. Start the engine and run until operating temperature is obtained.
43. Turn engine off and inspect for leaks.
44. Recheck all fluid levels, fill as required.
SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Ty pe 9 0° V-1 0
Number of Cylinders 10
Firing Order 1-10-9-4-3-6-5-8-7-2
Compression Ratio 9.6:1
Brake Horsepower 501@5600 RPM
Torque 525 ft. lbs. @4100 RPM
Crankshaft Forged Steel
Cylinder Block Aluminum Alloy with Interference Fit Cast Iron Liners
Connecting Rods Cracked Cap Powdered Metal
Pistons Cast Aluminum Alloy
Metric Standard
Displacement 8.3L 505 cu. in.
Bore 102.4 mm 4.03 in.
Stroke 100.6 mm 3.96 in.
Compression Pressure 1069-1172 kPa 155-170 psi
Engine Weight (Approx.) 284 Kilograms 625 Lbs.