2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 Crankshaft

4. Calculate the main bearing journal to bearing clearance. Maximum clearance is 0.119 mm (0.00475 inch). If the
crankshaft journal is within limits, replace the main bearings. If not within specifications, grind the crankshaft to
next size and use oversize bearings.
5. Measure thrust distance at the No.6 position.

SEAL - CRANKSHAFT OIL - FRONT
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect both battery negative cables.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Partially drain engine coolant into container suitable for re-use (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
4. Lower vehicle.
5. Remove radiator upper hose.
6. Disconnect coolant recovery bottle hose from radiator filler neck.
7. Disconnect windshield washer pump supply hose and electrical connections and lift washer bottle off of fan
shroud.
8. Remove viscous fan/drive assembly. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
9. Remove cooling fan shroud and fan assembly from the vehicle.
10. Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
11. Remove the cooling fan support/hub from the front of the engine.
12. Raisethevehicleonhoist.
13. Remove the crankshaft damper and speed indicator ring.
14. Remove power steering pump.
15. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
16. Remove the gear cover-to-housing bolts and gen-
tly pry the cover away from the housing, taking
care not to mar the gasket surfaces. Remove
crank seal dust shield with cover.
17. Support the cover on a flat work surface with
wooden blocks, and using a suitable punch (1)
and hammer, drive the old seal out of the cover
from the back side of the cover to the front side.

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
thecrankshaftmustbefreeofalloilresidue,to
prevent leaks. The crankshaft and seal surface
must be completely dry when the seal is installed.
1. Clean cover and housing gasket mating surfaces.
Use a suitable scraper and be careful not to dam-
age the gear housing surface. Remove any old
sealer from the oil seal bore. Thoroughly clean the
front seal area of the crankshaft. Do not sand this
surface. The seal lip and the sealing surface on the
crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to pre-
vent seal leaks.
2. Inspect the gear housing and cover for cracks and
replace if necessary. Carefully straighten any bends
or imperfections in the gear cover with a ball-peen
hammer on a flat surface. Inspect the crankshaft
front journal for any grooves or nicks that would
affect the integrity of the new seal.
3. Apply a bead of Mopar
Stud & Bearing Mount to
the outside diameter of the seal. Do not lubricate the inside diameter of thenewseal.
4. With the cover supported by wood blocks, install the seal into the rear ofthe cover using crankshaft seal installer
Special Tool 8281 and driver handle C-4171. Strike the driver handle untilthe installation tool bottoms out on the
inside of the cover.
CAUTION: Do not distort or damage seal.
5. Install the plastic seal pilot (provided with seal kit)
into the crankshaft seal.
6. Apply a bead of Mopar
Silicone Rubber Adhesive
Sealant or equivalent to the gear housing cover
sealing surface.
7. Install the cover to the gear housing, aligning the
seal pilot with the nose of the crankshaft.
NOTE: Failure to follow the cover installation pro-
cedure can result in misalignment of the crank-
shaft seal to the crankshaft, causing an oil leak.
8. Install the cover bolts and hand snug 2 capscrews
at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock position, to keep the
cover from moving when the first capscrew is
torqued. Torque to 24 Nꞏm (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Remove pilot tool.
9. Install dust shield over nose of crankshaft.
10. Install the crankshaft damper and speed indicator ring. Torque the bolts to 40 Nꞏm (30 ft. lbs.). Then rotate an
additional 60°. Use the engine barring tool to keep the engine from rotating during tightening operation.
11. Install the fan support/hub assembly and torque bolts to 32 Nꞏm (24 ft. lbs.).
12. Install power steering pump.
13. Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Torque bolt to 43 Nꞏm (32 ft.lbs.).
14. Install cooling fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
15. Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
16. Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
17. Connect battery negative cables.

SEAL - CRANKSHAFT OIL - REAR
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Remove the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
3. Remove the clutch cover and disc (if manual trans-
mission equipped) (Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH
DISC - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
5. Remove the flywheel adapter plate.
6. Drill holes 180° apart into the seal. Be careful not
to contact the drill against the crankshaft.
7. Install # 10 sheet metalscrews (1) in the drilled
holes and remove the rear seal with a slide ham-
mer (4).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on the crankshaft must be freefrom all oil residue to prevent
seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal surfaces must be completely dry when the seal is installed. Use a soap
and water solution on outside diameter of seal to ease assembly.
1. Clean the crankshaft journal with a suitable solvent and dry with a cleanshop towel or compressed air. Wipe the
inside bore of the crankshaft seal retainer with a clean shop towel.
2. Inspect the crankshaft journal forgouges, nicks, or other imperfections. If the seal groove in the crankshaft is
excessively deep, install the new seal 1/8” deeper into the retainer bore,or obtain a crankshaft wear sleeve that
is available in the aftermarket.
3. Install the seal pilot and new seal, provided in the replacement kit, onto the crankshaft.
4. Remove the seal pilot.
5. Install the installation tool over crankshaft.
6. Using a ball peen hammer, strike the tool (2) at the
12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions until the alignment
tool bottoms out on the retainer.
NOTE: Always install a new clamping ring, never
reuse the old clamping ring.
7. Install the flywheel or converter drive plate, and
clamping ring. Tighten the bolts to 137 Nꞏm (101 ft.
lbs.) torque.
8. Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
9. Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Connect battery negative cables.
12. Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
13. Start engine and check for oil leaks.

RETAINER - CRANK REAR OIL SEAL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the engine
oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 Nꞏm (44 ft. lbs.)
torque.
4. Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
5. Remove flywheel or torque converter drive plate.
6. Remove flywheel adapter plate.
7. Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
8. Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL) and
transmission adapter plate assembly.
9. Remove four 4 oil pan rear bolts. Slide a feeler
gauge between the seal retainer and oil pan gasket
to break the seal.
10. Remove the six 6 retainer-to-block bolts (3).
11. Remove the rear seal retainer, and gasket (2).
12. Support the seal retainer and drive out the crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
1. If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft seal
must be replaced.
2. Inspect oil pan gasket for nicks or cuts. If gasket is
damaged, the oil pan must be removed and gasket
must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and
apply light coating of RTV.
3. Using the retainer alignment/seal installation tool
provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block, using a new gasket. Tighten the six (6)
mounting bolts by hand.
4. The seal alignment tool is used to align rear cover
properly. Starting with the center two bolts, tighten
the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 Nꞏm (89 in.
lbs.). Remove the alignment tool.

CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on out-
side diameter of seal to ease assembly.
5. Make sure the provided seal pilot (1) is installed
into the new crankshaft seal (3). Use the align-
ment/installation tool and press the seal onto the
crankshaft. Alternately drive the seal at the 12, 3, 6
and 9 o’clock positions.
6. Remove the alignment tool and trim the retainer
gasket (1) even with the oil pan mounting surface.
7. Remove the seal pilot.
8. Apply a small amount of Mopar
Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant to the oil pan rail T-joints.
9. Install the four (4) oil pan rear mounting bolts and
torque to 28 Nꞏm (21 ft. lbs.).
10. Install new rectangular ring seal for cam bore.
11. Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
boltsto77Nꞏm(57ft.lbs.).
12. Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
boltsto77Nꞏm(57ft.lbs.).
NOTE: A new clamping ring must be used on early
or late builds, automatic or manual. Do not reuse
clamping ring.
13. Install the dual mass flywheel with crankshaft adapter. Tighten boltsto 137 Nꞏm (101 ft. lbs.).
14. Install the starter motor Refer to (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STA R T E R M O TO R - I N S TA L L AT I O N ) .
15. Install the transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
16. Lower vehicle.
17. Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
18. Connect the battery negative cables.
19. Start engine and check for oil leaks.

6. With the tappet in place, rotate the trough one half
turn so the open side is down (toward crankshaft).
7. Remove the tappet installation tool from the tappet.
8. Re-install a dowel rod and secure the rod with a
rubber band.
9. Rotate the trough one half turn and repeat the pro-
cedure for the remaining tappets.
10. Install the camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK) - INSTALLATION).

PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
PISTONS
The piston is constructed of aluminum and is gravity
cast, free floating design. The piston incorporates a
centrally located high swirl combustion bowl, and uti-
lizes a “keystone” style top compression ring, and a
“Tapered Face” intermediate ring, for superior cylinder
wall scraping. Piston cooling nozzles cool the piston
and pin with engine oil supplied by the crankshaft
main journals. All pistons are gallery cooled and utilize
J-jet piston cooling nozzles. Pistons are directional in
order to provide clearance to piston cooling nozzles.
CONNECTING RODS
The connecting rods are a split angle design. They
have a pressed-in-place wrist pin bushing that is lubri-
cated by piston cooling nozzle oil spray.
Machined connecting rods are no longer used in
the diesel engine. Do not install machined con-
necting rods into an engine that has fractured split
connecting rods.
Fractured split connecting rods are first manufactured
asasinglepieceandthenfracturedintotwopieces.Fracturedsplitconnecting rods can be identified by a rough
and irregular surface at the connecting rod split face. To properly assemble the rod cap to the connecting rod, the
bearing tangs on the connecting rod and cap must be located on the same side of the rod. The long end of the
connecting rod must be assembled on theintake or camshaft side of the engine.
Each matched fractured split connecting rod and cap is an assembly and are not interchangeable. If a connecting
rod or cap is damaged, the entire assembly must be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAD GASKET SELECTION
1. Measure piston protrusion for all six pistons.
2. Calculate the average piston protrusion. Maximum allowable protrusion is 0.516 mm (0.020 inch).
NOTE: There are two different head gaskets available. One gasket is for Average piston protrusion less than
0.30 mm (0.011 inch). The other gasket is for Average piston protrusion greater than 0.30 mm (0.011 inch)