1988 PONTIAC FIERO transmission oil

4B-4 REAR AXLE
d. Incorrect driveline angle.
Noise changes on a different type of road.
a. Road noise.
b. Tire noise.
Noise tone lowers as car speed is lowered.
a. Tire noise.
Similar noise is produced with car standing and
driving.
a. Engine noise.
b. Transmission noise.
Vibration. a. Rough rear wheel bearing.
b. Unbalanced
or damaged propeller shaft.
c. Tire unbalance.
d. Worn
universal joint in propeller shaft.
e. Incorrect driveline angle.
f. Mis-indexed propeller shaft at pinion
flange.
g. Pinion
flange
runout too great.
A knock or click approximately every two
revolutions of the rear wheel.
a. A rear wheel bearing.
Noise most pronounced on turns.
a. Rear
axle side gear and pinion noise.
A continuous low pitch whirring or scraping
noise starting at relatively low speed.
a. Pinion bearing noise.
Drive noise, coast noise or float noise.
a. Ring and
pinion gear noise.
Clunk on acceleration or deceleration.
a. Worn rear
axle pinion shaft in case or side
gear hub counterbore in case worn oversize.
b. Insufficient
lubrication on propeller shaft
slip yoke.
c. Worn U-joints on
propeller shaft. Front or
rear.
Groan in "Forward" or "Reverse".
a. Wrong
or contaminated lube in rear axle.
b. Worn bushings.
Chatter on turns.
a. Wrong
or contaminated lube in rear axle.
b. Clutch
cone worn and/or
spring(s) worn.
Clunk or knock on rough road operation.
a. Excessive end play of axle shafts to
differential cross shaft.
b. Worn bushings.
PRE-REPAIR INVESTIGATION AND TROUBLE
DIAGNOSIS
A careful1 diagnosis of the rear axle prior to
disassembly will often reveal valuable information as to
the extent and type of repairs or adjustments necessary.
Since frequent causes of axle noises are improper
backlash, pinion bearing pre-load, or side bearing
pre-load, or a combination, a few simple adjustments
may be all that are necessary to correct a problem.
Therefore, before removing the rear axle from the
housing, the following checks should be made with the
results recorded and analyzed:
1) Backlash; 2) Total Assembly
Preload; 3) Tooth Contact Pattern Test;
4)
Fluid Level; and 5) Fluid Contamination.
Use care at all times to keep dirt and other foreign
matter, such as grinder dust, soot or sand, away from
differential to prevent possibility of subsequent failure.
The pinion and ring gear must be completely
assembled, installed and all pre-load and backlash
adjustments completed prior to the start of this method
of pinion depth setting. The following procedure can
be used in place of the gage method of pinion depth
setting.
Gear Tooth Nomenclature
The side of the ring gear tooth which curves
outward, or is convex, is referred to as the "drive" side.
The concave side is the "coast" side. The end of the
tooth nearest center of ring gear is referred to as the
"toe" end. The end of the tooth farthest away from the
center is the "heel" end. Toe end of tooth is smaller
than heel end.
It is very important that tooth contact be tested
before the rear axle carrier assembly is disassembled.
Variations in the carrier or pinion rear bearing may
cause the pinion to be too far away from, or close to,
the ring gear. Thus, the tooth contact must be tested
and corrected, if necessary, or the gears may be noisy.
Tooth Contact Pattern Test
1. Wipe oil out of carrier and carefully clean each
tooth of ring gear.
2. Use gear marking compound part number
1052351 or equivalent and apply this mixture
sparingly to all ring gear teeth, using a medium
stiff brush. When properly used, the area of
pinion tooth contact will be visible when hand
load is applied.
3. Tighten bearing cap bolts to 75
N.m (55 lb. ft.).
4. Expand
brake shoes using parking brake cables
until a torque of 54 to
70 N-m (40-50 lb. ft.) is
required to turn the pinion.
A test made without loading the gears will not
give a satisfactory pattern. Turn pinion flange
with wrench so that ring gear rotates one full
revolution, then reverse rotation so that ring gear
rotates one revolution in opposite direction.
5. Observe
pattern on ring gear teeth and compare
with Fig. 3.
Effects of Increasing Load on Teeth Contact
Pattern
When "load" on ring and pinion gear is
increased, such as when car is accelerated forward
from standstill or from normal drive, the tooth contact
will tend to spread out and, under very heavy load, will
extend from near toe to near heel on the drive side. The
entire contact also tends to shift toward heel under
increasingly heavier loads and will become somewhat
broader with respect to tops and bottoms of teeth. The
patterns obtained by this tooth contact pattern test
approximate a light load and, for this reason, they will
extend only about halfway.

BRAKES 5-3
DIAGNOSIS AND INSPECTION
BRAKE SYSTEM TESTING
(Figures
2 through 4)
Brakes should be tested on dry, clean, reasonably
smooth and level roadway. A true test of brake performance
cannot be made if the roadway is wet, greasy or covered
with loose dirt so that all tires do not grip the road equally.
Testing will also be affected if the roadway is crowned
which would throw the weight of the car toward the wheels
on one side. If the roadway is too rough, the wheels will tend
to bounce. Test brakes at different car speeds with both light and
heavy pedal pressure, avoid locking the brakes and sliding
the tires. Locked brakes and sliding tires do not indicate
brake efficiency, because heavily braked, but turning
wheels will stop the car in less distance than locked brakes.
More tire-to-road friction is present with a heavily braked
turning tire than with a sliding tire. The brake system is designed and balanced to avoid
locking the wheels, except at very high deceleration levels.
The shortest stopping distance and best control is achieved
without brake lock-up.
Because of high deceleration capability, a firmer pedal
may be felt at higher deceleration levels.
External Conditions That Affect Brake Performance
1. Tires. Tires having unequal contact and grip on road
will cause unequal braking. Tires must be equally
inflated and tread pattern of right and left tires must
be approximately equal.
2. Car Loading. A heavily loaded car requires more
braking effort. When a car has unequal loading, the
most heavily loaded wheels require more braking
power than others.
3. Wheel Alignment. Misalignment of the wheels, par-
ticularly excessive camber and caster, will cause the
brakes to pull to one side.
4. Front Wheel Bearings. A loose front wheel bearing
BRAKE FLUID LEAKS
With engine running at idle and the transmission in neu-
tral, depress the brake pedal and hold a constant foot pres-
sure.
If the pedal gradually falls away with the constant
pressure, the hydraulic system may be leaking. Perform a
visual check to confirm any suspected leak.
Check the master cylinder fluid levels. While a slight drop
in reservoir level does result from normal lining wear, an
abnormally low level in either reservoir indicates
a leak in
the system. The hydraulic system may be leaking either
internally or externally. See "Master Cylinder Check."
Also, the system may appear to pass this test but still have
slight leakage.
If fluid levels are normal, check the vacuum booster
pushrod length. If an incorrect length pushrod is found,
adjust or replace the
pushrod. Check the service brake
pedal travel and the parking brake adjustment.
When checking the fluid levels, the master cylinder reser-
voir may be as low as
25 mm (1 inch) from the top if the front
linings are worn. This is not abnormal.
MASTER CYLINDER CHECK
These checks will help locate some master cylinder mal-
functions. Use the Brake Diagnosis Charts to help isolate
the problem if it is not found by using these tests.
1. Check for a cracked master cylinder casting or brake
fluid around the master cylinder. Leaks are indicated
only if there is at least a drop of fluid. A damp condi-
tion is not abnormal.
2. Check for a binding pedal linkage.
3. Disassemble the master cylinder and check for swol-
len or stretched piston
seal(s). If swollen seals are
found, substandard or contaminated brake fluid
should be suspected.
If contaminated, all compo-
nents should be disassembled and cleaned. All rub-
ber components should be replaced and all the pipes
should be flushed.
permits the front wheel to tilt and lose contact with the
SUBSTANDARD OR CONTAMINATED brake shoe linings causing erratic brake operation. BRAKE FLUID
WARNING LAMP OPERATION
The brake system uses a single red "BRAKE" warning
lamp located in the instrument panel cluster. When the
ignition switch is in the "START" position, the "BRAKE"
warning lamp should come on. It should go off when the
ignition switch returns to the "RUN" position.
The following conditions will activate the "BRAKE"
warning lamp:
1. Parking brake applied. The lamp should be on when
tfie parking brake is applied and the ignition switch is
"ON."
2. Pressure differential switch detects a failure. See
"Brake Pressure Differential Warning Switch" in this
section. Improper
brake fluid, mineral oil or water in the fluid may
cause the brake fluid to boil or the rubber components to
deteriorate.
If piston cups are swollen, the rubber parts have dete-
riorated. This deterioration may also be seen by swollen
wheel cylinder piston cups on the drum brake wheels or a
swollen master cylinder cover diaphragm.
If rubber deterioration is evident, disassemble all hydrau-
lic parts and wash with alcohol. Dry these parts with com-
pressed air before assembly to keep alcohol out of the
system. Replace all rubber parts in the system, including
hoses. Check for fluid on the linings. If excessive fluid is
found, replace the linings.
If master cylinder piston seals are satisfactory, check for
leakage or excessive heat conditions. If condition is not
found, drain fluid, flush with brake fluid, fill and bleed the
system.

6A2-8 2.8 LITER V-6
6. Install new mount.
7. Lower transmission.
8. Torque nuts to specifications.
Figure 6A2-6 Rocker Arm Cover
ROCKER ARM COVER
Removal (Left)
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Disconnect air management hose (manual
transmission only).
3. Remove plenum and runners and disconnect
throttle body per Section
6E3.
4. Remove A/C bracket.
5. Remove rocker cover reinforcements and nuts.
6. Remove cover. If cover adheres to cylinder head,
shear off by bumping end of rocker arm cover
with palm of hand or rubber mallet. If cover still
will not come loose, CAREFULLY pry until
loose. DO NOT DISTORT SEALING
FLANGE. It may be necessary to remove the two
spark plug wire harness studs in order to get the
rocker cover past the windshield wiper motor.
Installation (Left)
1. Clean sealing surface on cylinder head, intake
manifold and rocker cover. Make sure sealing
flange or rocker cover is not bent.
2. Place a 3mm diameter
(1/8") dot of RTV sealant,
# 1052917 or equivalent, at the intake manifold
and cylinder head splitline.
3. Install rocker cover gasket over studs in the
manifold and cylinder head.
4. Install the reinforcements and nuts and torque to
8-20
N.m (6-14 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the plenum and runners and connect the
throttle body as per Section
6E3.
6. Connect air management hose (manual
transmission only).
7. Install
A/C bracket.
8. Connect battery.
Removal (Right)
1. Disconnect battery. 2.
Remove EGR valve transfer tube from plenum.
3. Remove coil and coil mounting bracket from
cylinder head.
4. Remove plenum and runners and disconnect
throttle body per Section
6E3.
5. Remove rocker cover retainers and nuts.
6. Remove cover. If cover adheres to cylinder head,
shear off by bumping end of rocker cover with
palm of hand or rubber mallet. If cover still does
not come loose, CAREFULLY pry until loose.
DO NOT DISTORT SEALING FLANGE.
Installation (Right)
Clean sealing surface on cylinder head, intake
manifold, and rocker cover. Make sure sealing
flange or rocker cover is not bent.
Place a 3mm diameter
(1/8") dot of RTV sealant,
# 1052917 or equivalent, at the intake manifold
and cylinder head splitline.
Install rocker cover gasket over studs in the
manifold and cylinder head.
Install the load spreaders and nuts and torque to
90 in. lbs.
Install plenum and runners and connect throttle
body per Section
6E3.
Install coil and coil mounting bracket at cylinder
head.
Install EGR valve and transfer tube at plenum.
Connect battery.
I NOTE ]APPLY A SMOOTH CONTINUOUS BEAD APPROX
2.0-3.0 WIDE AND 3.0-5.0 THICK ON BOTH SURFACES.
BEAD CONFIGURATION MUST INSURE COMPLETE SEALING
OF WATER AND OIL. SURFACE MUST BE FREE OF OIL AND
DIRT TO INSURE ADEQUATE SEAL.
TORQUE INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS
TO
18-34 N.m (1 3-25 FT. LBS.)
841 59
73 2 610 VIEW
Figure 6A2-7 Intake Manifold

2.8 LITER V-6 6A2-9
INTAKE MANIFOLD (FIGURE 6A2-7)
Removal
Disconnect battery.
Remove air cleaner.
Drain coolant.
Refer to Section 6E3 for removal of the following
PFI sub-assemblies.
e Plenum
e Fuel Rail
e Runner
Disconnect spark plug wires at spark plugs.
Disconnect wires at coil.
Remove distributor cap and spark plug wires.
Mark distributor position and remove hold down
bracket.
Remove distributor.
Remove air management hose, manual
transmission only.
Disconnect emission canister hoses. Remove pipe
bracket (front left valve cover).
Remove left valve cover.
Remove air management bracket, manual
transmission only.
Remove right valve cover.
Remove upper radiator hose.
Disconnect heater hose.
Disconnect coolant switches.
Remove manifold bolts.
Remove manifold. Discard manifold gaskets and
remove loose RTV from front and rear ridges of
cylinder case.
Installation
When installing intake gaskets, notice that the
gaskets are marked Right Side and Left Side
(carbureted only). Use them only as indicated to
maintain designed efficiency of this engine.
1. Make
sure that no oil or water is present on
surface when new RTV is applied. Place a 5mm
diameter
(3/16") bead of RTV, # 1052917 or
equivalent, on each ridge.
2. Install
new intake gaskets on cylinder heads.
Hold in place by extending ridge RTV bead up
6mm onto the gasket ends. The new intake
gaskets will have to be cut, where indicated, to
install behind push rods. Cut only those areas
that are necessary.
3. Install intake
manifold on engine. Make sure
areas between case ridges and intake are
completely sealed.
4. Install manifold retaining bolts and nuts and
torque in the sequence shown in Figure 6A2-7.
5. Install heater and radiator hose to manifold.
6. Install rocker covers as previously outlined.
7. Connect coolant switches.
8. Install air management bracket.
9. Install pipe bracket (front left rocker cover).
10. Install distributor, distributor cap and retaining
nut. Do not tighten.
11. Refer to Section 6E3 for installation of PFI
sub-assemblies removed. 12.
Connect
necessary wires and hoses.
13. Fill cooling system with
the proper mixture of
ethylene glycol anti-freeze and water. Do not
install radiator cap.
14. Start
engine, set intitial timing. After set, torque
distibutor hold down clamp bolt to 34
N-m (25
lb. ft.). Recheck timing after torquing bolt.
15. Let engine
run until radiator upper hose becomes
hot (thermostat open).
16. With
engine idling, add coolant to radiator, if
necessary, until level reaches bottom of filler
neck.
17. Install
radiator cap, making sure arrows on cap
line up with overflow tube.
Figure 6A2-8 Exhaust Manifold
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (FIGURE 6A2-8)
Removal (Left)
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Raise vehicle.
3. Disconnect exhaust pipe.
4. Remove
(4) rear manifold bolts and (1) nut.
5. Lower vehicle.
6. Disconnect air management, hoses and wires.
7. Remove power steering and fuel line bracket.
8. Remove manifold.
Installation (Left)
1. Clean mating surfaces on manifold and head,
then install manifold in position and install bolts.
2. Torque
manifold bolts to 34
N.m (25 ft. lbs.).
3. Install power steering bracket.
4. Raise vehicle.
5. Install exhaust pipe.
6. Lower vehicle.
7. Connect battery.
Removal (Right)
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Raise vehicle.
3. Disconnect exhaust pipe.
4. Lower vehicle.

2.8 LITER V-6 6A2-21
SEAL BORE TO SEAL SURFACE
TO BE LUBRICATED
WlTH ENGINE OK BEFORE I ASSEMBLY
Figure
6A2-27 Seal and Tool J-34686
ALIGNMENT HOLE
DUST
LIP
I SCREWS I
Figure 6A2-28 Installing Seal
OIL SEAL - REAR MAIN
Repair
1. Remove transmission.
2. Remove flexplate.
3. Old
seal, insert a screwdriver or similar tool
through the dust lip at an angle as shown in
Figure
6A2-26. Pry seal out by moving handle of
tool towards the end of the crankshaft. Repeat as
required around the seal until seal is removed.
CARE MUST BE TAKEN NOT TO
DAMAGE THE CRANKSHAFT O.D.
SURFACE
WlTH THE PRY TOOL.
4. Check
the I.D. of bore for knicks or burrs and
correct as required. Inspect crankshaft for burrs
or knicks on surface which contacts seal. Repair
or replace crankshaft as required.
5. Install new seal using Tool J-34686, Figure
6A2-27.
6. Apply a
light coat of oil to I.D. of new seal and
install over mandril, slide the seal on the mandril
until the dust lip (back of seal) bottoms squarely
against collar of tool, Figure
6A2-28.
7. Align dowel pin of tool with dowel pin hole in
crankshaft and attach tool to crankshaft by hand
or torque attaching screw to 2-5 ft. lbs.
8. Turn
"T" handle of tool so that collar pushes seal
into the bore, turn handle until the collar is tight
against the case. This will insure that the seal is
seated properly.
9. Loosen the "T" handle of the tool until it comes
to a stop. This will insure that the collar will be
in the proper position for installing a new seal.
Remove attaching screws.
10. Check seal,
making sure seal is seated squarely in
the bore.
1
1. Install flywheel.
12. Install transmission.
13. Start
engine, check for leaks.
PISTONS, RINGS AND CONNECTING RODS
Removal
1. Remove cylinder heads.
2. Examine the cylinder bores above the ring tavel.
If bores are worn so that a shoulder or ridge exists
at the top of the cylinder, remove the ridges with
a ridge reamer to avoid damaging rings or
cracking ring lands in pistons during removal.
3. Use a silver pencil or quick drying paint to mark
the cylinder number on all pistons, connecting
rods and caps. Starting at the front end of the
crankcase the cylinders in the right bank are
numbered 1-3-5 and those in the left bank are
number 2-4-6.
4. Remove rod bearing
cap and bearing.
5. Install
guide hose over threads of rod bolts. This
is to prevent damage to bearing journal and rod
bolt threads.
6. Remove rod
and piston assembly through the top
of the cylinder bore.
Disassembly
1. Remove compression rings
and oil ring.
2. Install piston and connecting rod assembly on
fixture and support J-24086-20 and place in an
arbor press. Press pin out of connecting rod.
Inspection
1. Inspect cylinder walls for scoring, roughtness, or
ridges which indicate excessive wear. Check
cylinder bores for taper and out-of-round with an
accurate cylinder gage at top, middle and bottom
of bore, both parallel at right angles to the
cylinder bores at any point may be measured with
an inside micrometer or setting the cylinder gage
dial at
"0" and measuring across the gage
contact points with outside micrometer while the
gage is at same
"0" setting.
2. If a cylinder bore is moderately rough or slightly
scored but is not out-of-round or tapered, it is
usually possible to remedy the situation by
honing the bore to fit a standard service piston
since standard service pistons are high limit
production pistons. If cylinder bore is very rough
or deeply scored, however, it may be necessary to

2.8 LITER V-6 6A2-25
Fitting
1. Select rings comparable in size to the piston being
used.
2. Slip
the compression ring in the cylinder bore;
then press the ring down into the cylinder bore
about 6mm above ring travel. Be sure ring is
square with cylinder wall.
3. Measure the space or gap between the ends of the
ring with a feeler gage (Figure
6A2-33).
4. If
the gap between the ends of the ring is below
specifications, remove the ring and try another
for fit.
5. Fit each compression ring to the cylinder in
which it is going to be used.
6. If the pistons have not been cleaned and inspected
as previously outlined, do so.
7. Slip the outer surface of the top and second
compression ring into the respective piston ring
groove and roll the ring entirely around the
groove (Figure
6A2-34). If binding occurs at any
point, the cause should be determined. If there is
a ring groove, remove by dressing with a fine cut
file. If the binding is caused by a distorted ring,
check a new ring.
Installation
1. Install oil ring spacer in groove being sure ends
are butted and not overlapped.
2. Hold
spacer ends butted and install lower steel oil
ring rail.
3. Install upper
steel oil ring rail with gap staggered.
4. Flex
the oil ring assembly to make sure ring is
free. If binding occurs, the cause should be
detemined. If caused by ring groove, remove by
dressing groove with a fine cut file. If binding is
caused by a distorted ring, check a new ring.
5. Install second compression ring. Stagger gap
from other rings.
6. Install top compression ring with gap properly
located.
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
Removal
Disconnect battery.
Remove air cleaner.
Remove hood. Drain radiator.
Remove lower radiator hose.
Remove upper fan shroud.
Remove upper radiator hose and coolant
recovery hose.
Remove transmission cooler lines. Remove radiator.
Remove fan assembly.
Remove heater hoses.
Disconnect carburetor linkage, includes cruise
control detent cable.
Remove vacuum brake booster line.
Remove distributor cap and lay wiring aside.
Disconnect necessary wires and hoses.
Remove power steering pump and lay aside. Raise
vehicle.
Remove exhaust pipes at exhaust manifold.
Remove dust cover.
Remove converter bolts.
Disconnect starter wires.
Remove bell housing bolts.
Remove motor mount through bolts.
Disconnect fuel lines at fuel pump.
Lower vehicle. Support transmission.
Remove
A.I.R./Converter pipes bracket.
Remove engine, include removing wire from
bracket at rear left of engine.
Installation
Position engine assembly in vehicle.
Attach motor mount to engine brackets and
lower engine in place.
Remove engine lifting device.
Remove transmission floor jack.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Install mount "through" bolts. Torque to
specifications.
Install bell housing bolts. Torque to
specifications.
On vehicles with automatic transmission, install
converter to flywheel attaching bolts. Torque to
specifications.
Install flywheel splash shield of conveter housing
cover as applicable. Torque attaching bolts to
specifications.
Install starter wires.
Connect fuel lines.
Connect exhaust pipe at manifold.
Lower vehicle on hoist.
Reinstall power steering pump, if so equipped.
Connect necessary wires and hoses.
Install radiator and fan shroud and reconnect
radiator and heater hoses.
Fill cooling system.
Fill crankcase with oil. See owner's manual for
specifications.
Install air cleaner.
Install hood.
Connect battery cables.
NOTICE: To avoid possible arcing of battery,
connect positive battery cable first.
22. Start engine, check for leaks and check timing.
CRANKSHAFT
The crankshaft can be removed while the engine
is dissasembled for overhaul, as previously outlined or
without complete disassembly.
Removal
1. With the engine removed from the vehicle,
remove the clutch assembly (if equipped) and
flywheel. Mount engine in stand and clamp
securely.

6A3-18 V-8 ENGINE
bore, remove remover and installer tool and
bearing from puller screw.
5. Remove remaining bearings (except front and
rear) in the same manner. It will be necessary to
index pilot in camshaft rear bearing to remove the
rear intermediate bearing.
6. Assemble remover
and installer tool on driver
handle and remove camshaft front and rear
bearings by driving towards center of cylinder
block.
lnstallation
The camshaft front and rear bearings should be
installed first. These bearings will act as guides for the
pilot and center the remaining bearings being pulled
into place.
1. Assemble remover
and installer tool on driver
handle and install camshaft front and rear
bearings by driving towards center of cylinder
block.
2. Using Tool Set J-6098, with nut then thrust
washer installed to end of threads, index pilot in
camshaft front bearing and install puller screw
through pilot.
3. Index camshaft bearing in bore (with oil hole
aligned as outlined below), then install remover
and installer tool on puller screw with shoulder
toward bearing.
e Number one cam bearing oil hole must be
positioned so that oil holes are equidistant
from 6 o'clock position.
e Number two through number four bearing
oil holes must be positioned at 5 o'clock
position (toward left side of engine and at a
position even with bottom of cylinder bore).
e Number five bearing oil hole must be in 12
o'clock position.
4. Using two wrenches, hold puller screw while
turning nut. After bearing has been pulled into
bore, remove the remover and installer tool from
puller screw and check alignment of oil hole in
camshaft bearing.
5. Install remaining bearings in the same manner. It
will be necessary to index pilot in the camshaft
rear bearing to install the rear intermediate
bearing.
6. Coat new camshaft rear plug O.D. with
# 1052080 sealant, or equivalent, and install
flush to 1/32"
(.80mm) deep.
OIL PAN
Removal
1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Remove fan shroud.
3. Remove air cleaner and lay aside if equipped.
4. Remove distributor cap and lay aside.
5. Raise vehicle.
6. Drain crankcase.
7. Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
8. Disconnect AIR pipe clamp.
9. Disconnect converter hanger bolts and allow
exhaust to hang down.
GASKET
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE 10 LBS.
1 REINFORCEMENT
MINIMUM AT 500 RPM AND 30-55
1 OIL PAN
LBS. AT 2000 RPM.
161 RETAINER
OIL FILTER BY-PASS VALVE STUD
(LB9, L98)
OPERATES
AT 9- TO 11 LBS. STUD (L98)
PRESSURE.
OIL PUMP
Fig. 6A3-32 Oil Pan
10. Remove front starter brace.
11. Remove starter bolts and let starter hang.
12. On vehicles equipped with manual transmission,
it may be necessary to remove the oil filter in
order to remove the inspection cover.
13. Remove inspection cover.
14. Remove engine mount through bolts.
15. Remove oil pan bolts.
16. Raise engine.
17. Rotate crankshaft to position throws so as not to
block pan removal.
18. Remove oil pan.
lnstallation
1.
Clean sealing surfaces on cylinder case and oil
pan.
2. Check oil pan gasket for damage and replace if
necessary.
3. Apply a small amount of 1052751, or equivalent,
to front and rear corners of oil pan.
NOTICE: Only a small amount of sealant is
required. Excessive amounts of sealant may cause
a problem with proper sealing of oil pan.
4. Reverse removal procedures.
OIL PUMP
Removal
1. Remove oil pan as previously outlined.
2. Remove pump to rear main bearing cap bolt and
remove pump and extension shaft.
Disassembly (Figure 6A3-33)
1. Remove the pump cover attaching screws and the
pump cover.

BA3-22 V-8 ENGINE
5. On the edge of gaging plastic envelope there is a
graduated scale which is correlated in
thousandths of an inch. Without removing the
gaging plastic, measure its compressed width (at
the widest point) with the graduations on the
gaging plastic envelope (fig. 6A3-40).
Normally main bearing journals wear evenly and
are not out-of-round. However, if a bearing is
being fitted to an out-of-round journal
(.00lU
max.), be sure to fit to the maximum diameter of
the journal: If the bearing is fitted to the
minimum diameter and the journal is
out-of-round
.001", interference between the
bearing and journal will result in rapid bearing
failure. If the flattened gaging plastic tapers
toward the middle or ends, there is a difference
in clearance indicating taper, low spot or other
irregularity of the bearing or journal. Be sure to
measure the journal with a micrometer if the
flattened gaging plastic indicates more than
.00lV
difference.
6. If the bearing clearance is within specifications,
the bearing insert is satisfactory. If the clearance'
is not within specifications, replace the insert.
Always replace both upper and lower inserts as
a unit.
If a new bearing cap is being installed and
clearance is less than
.00 1 ", inspect for burrs or
nicks; if none are found then install shims as
required.
I MEASURE END PLAY
Fig. 6A3-4 1 Measuring Crankshaft End Play - Typical
7. A standard, .001" or .002" undersize bearing may
produce the proper clearance. If not, it will be
necessary to regrind the crankshaft journal for
use with the next undersize bearing.
After selecting new bearing, recheck clearance.
8. Proceed to the next bearing. After all bearings
have been checked rotate the crankshaft to see
that there is no excessive drag.
When checking
&t 1 main bearing, loosen
accessory drive belts so as to prevent tapered
reading with plastic gage.
9. Measure crankshaft end play (see specifications)
by forcing the crankshaft to the extreme front
position. Measure at the front end of the rear
main bearing with a feeler gage (fig.
61\3-41),
10. Install a new rear main bearing oil seal in the
cylinder block and main bearing cap.
Replacement
Main bearings may be replaced with or without
removing the crankshaft.
NOTICE: Some production engines may come
with rear main bearings with the distance between
thrust faces
,008" wider than the standard size.
The crankshaft will be identified by
,008" stamped
on the rear counterweight. If the rear main
bearings are replaced, they must have the proper
distance between thrust faces to ensure correct
crankshaft end play.
With Crankshaft Removal
1. Remove and inspect the crankshaft.
2. Remove the main bearings from the cylinder
block and main bearing caps.
3. Coat bearing surfaces of new, correct size, main
bearings with oil and install in the cylinder block
and main bearing caps.
4. Install the crankshaft.
Without Crankshaft Removal
1. With oil pan, oil pump and spark plugs removed,
remove cap on main bearing requiring
replacement and remove bearing from cap.
2. Install a
main bearing removing and installing
tool in oil hole in crankshaft journal. If such a
tool is not available, a cotter pin may be bent as
required to do the job.
3. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise as viewed from
the front of engine. This will roll upper bearing
out of block.
4. Oil new selected size upper bearing and insert
plain (unnotched) end between crankshaft and
indented or notched side of block.
Rot$e the bearing into place and remove tool from oil
hole in crankshaft journal.
5. Oil new lower bearing and install in bearing cap.
6. Install main bearing cap with arrows pointing
toward front of engine.
7. Torque all main bearing caps, EXCEPT THE
REAR MAIN CAP, to specifications. Torque
rear main bearing cap to 10- 12 lb. ft. (14-
16N. m)
then tap end of crankshaft, first rearward then
forward with a lead hammer. This will line up
rear main bearing and crankshaft thrust surfaces.
Retorque all main bearing caps to specifications.
REAR MAIN SEAL
Removal
1. Remove transmission as outlined in Section 7.
2. Using notches provided
in retainer, pry out seal
with a screwdriver (Figure 6A4-43).