2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 check engine

TIMING CHAIN ANDCAMSHAFT SPROCKET INSTALLATION
1. Rotate the crankshaft sprocket so the timing mark
is at the 12 O’clock position.
2. Place the timing chain around the camshaft
sprocket and place the timing mark to the 6 O’clock
position.
3. Place the timing chain around crankshaft sprocket
and install the camshaft sprocket into position.
4. Using straight edge, check alignment of timing
marks.
5. Install the camshaft sprocket bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 23 Nꞏm (200 in. lbs.).
6. Rotate crankshaft 2 revolutions. Timing marks
should line up. If timing marks do not line up,
remove cam sprocket and realign.
7. Measure camshaft end play. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
- SPECIFICATIONS). If not within specifications,
install new thrust plate.
8. Install timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING CHAIN COVER -
INSTALLATION).

LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The engine lubrication system is a full-flow filtration pressure feed type.
OPERATION
Engine oil stored in the oil pan is taken in and discharged by an internal geartypeoilpump,whichisdrivenbythe
crankshaft. A pressure relief valve is located in the timing chain case cover; it regulates oil pressure. The oil is
pumped through an oil filter and feeds a main oil gallery. Also, oil is routedtoanexternaloilcooler.Themainoil
gallery feeds oil under pressure to the main bearings, connecting rod bearings, and camshaft bearings. Passages in
the cylinder block feed oil to the hydraulic lifters. The oil then flows through hollow pushrods, which feed the rocker
arm pivots.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
1. Remove oil pressure sensor (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PRESSURE SENSOR - REMOVAL).
2. Install oil pressure gauge.
3. Warm engine at high idle until thermostat opens.
CAUTION: If oil pressure is 0 at idle, Do Not Run engine at 3000 RPM.
4. Oil pressure should be 68.9 kPa (10 psi) at idle or 310 - 517 kPa (45 - 75 psi)at 3000 RPM.
5. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck
open.
ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at thearea of the suspected leak. If an oil leak
source is not readily identifiable, thefollowingstepsshouldbefollowed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents maycause rubber to swell, temporarily
stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15
minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color
under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test
method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
1. Remove the PCV valve from the IAFM. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
2. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
3. Gradually apply air pressure from 6.89 - 17.23 kPa (1 - 2.5 psi) maximum while applying soapy water at the
suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure thatprovide the best bubbles which will pin-
point the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
4. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area Leak.
5. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV
valve.
6. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.

INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal, camshaft
bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CHECKING ENGINE OIL LEVEL
The best time to check engine oil level is after the
vehicle has sat overnight. If the engine has been run-
ning, allow the engine to be shut off for at least 5 min-
utes before checking oil level.
Checking the oil while the vehicle is on level ground
will improve the accuracy of the oil level reading.
Remove the engine oil indicator. The indicator is cali-
brated for 1 quart within the SAFE zone.
ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL. CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY INTER-
NAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED SKIN WITH
SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR SOLVENTS,
HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL PROPERLY. CON-
TACT YOUR DEALER OR GOVERNMENT AGENCY FOR LOCATION OF COLLECTION CENTER INYOUR
AREA.
Change engine oil and filter at mileage and time intervals described in LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE (Refer
to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION).
ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE
1. Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.
2. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
3. Open hood, remove oil fill cap.
4. Raise vehicle on hoist.
5. Remove underbody front shield
6. Place a suitable drain pan under oil pan drain plug.
7. Remove drain plug from oil pan and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other
damage. Replace drain plug and gasket if damaged.
8. Install drain plug in crankcase.
9. Remove oil filter and replace with new.
10. Install under body shield.
11. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES
- DESCRIPTION) and amount of engine oil (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).

INSTALLATION
1. Position oil cooler to mounting position.
2. Install oil cooler fasteners. Tighten to 12 Nꞏm (105
in. lbs.).
3. Connect oil supply (1) and return lines (2) to oil
cooler and.
4. Connect oil cooler coolant hoses (3).
5. Install air cleaner housing assembly, connect throt-
tle body air inlet hose (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER HOUSING -
INSTALLATION).
6. Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE
- STANDARD PROCEDURE).
7. Start the engine to circulate and fill the oil cooler.
Shut off the engine and check the oil level. Add oil
as needed.
8. Inspect the oil cooler connections for leaks.

BLOCK-ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of a sand-cast aluminum alloy. The cylinder block has interference-fit cast iron cylinder
liners. The cylinder liners are thermally installed during block manufacturing; they are not serviceable items.
Six iron main bearing caps use four bolts per cap; two vertical and two horizontal. A crankshaft oil scraper is
attached to the main bearing caps via extended main bearing cap bolts and nuts.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern. The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings.
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
CAUTION: Remove all gasket material from cylinder block using a plastic gasket scraper and MoparBrake
Parts Cleaner or the equivalent, this will prevent damage to the cylinder block.
1. When cleaning the cylinder block, remove the oil gallery plugs at the front and rear of the block.
2. Spray compressed air into all oil gallery passages to ensure they are clear of blockage.
3. Use a wooden or plastic scraper and MOPAR
Brake Parts Cleaner or the equivalent to remove the old gasket.
4. Clean the oil passages in the crankshaft with a brush.

INSPECTION
The cylinder walls should be checked for out-of-round
and taper with Special Tool C-119 (1). If the cylinder
walls are badly scuffed or scored, the cylinder bore
can be machined oversize. Oversize piston and rings
are available.
Measure the cylinder bore at three levels in directions
A and B. Top measurement should be 12 mm (0.50
in.) down and bottom measurement should be 12 mm
(0.50 in.) up from bottom of bore. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for cylinder bore and
piston specifications.

MEASURING CONNECTING ROD SIDE CLEARANCE
1. Using a feeler gauge, check connecting rod side
clearance. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICA-
TIONS) for connecting rod side clearance
specifications.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Pistons and connecting rods are to be
removed as an assembly from top of cylinder
block.
1. Remove engine (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - REMOVAL)
and place in a suitable engine stand.
2. Remove cylinder heads (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYL-
INDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
3. Remove oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the oil pump pick up tube (2)