2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 air condition

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION OR
SPARK PLUGS OIL
FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check and repair PCV system as
necessary.
2. Defective valve stem seal(s). 2. Repair or replace seal(s).
3. Worn or broken piston rings. 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings.
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls. 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace pistons
as necessary.
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove. 5. Remove rings and de-carbon piston.
6. Worn valve guides. 6. Ream and install new valves with
oversize stems.
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves.7. Remove piston rings. Check ring end
gap and side clearance. Replace as
necessary.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compressionpressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.
Ensurethebatteryiscompletelychargedandtheenginestartermotorisingood operating condition. Otherwise the
indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
1. Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
2. Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Select a route free from traffic and other
forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws, and accelerate through thegears several times briskly.
3. Remove the Auto Shut Down (ASD) relay from the Power Distribution Center(PDC).
4. Disconnect ignition cables from spark plugs.
5. Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnormal firing
indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cylinder number of spark plug for future reference.
6. Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the compression check.
7. Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool 8116 or the equivalent, into the No. 1 spark plug hole in cylinder
head. Connect the 0-500 psi (Blue) pressure transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adaptors to the scan
tool. For Special Tool identification, (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
8. Crank engine until maximum pressure is reached on gauge. Record this pressure as No. 1 cylinder pressure.
9. Repeat the previous step for all remaining cylinders.
10. Compression should not be less than 689 kPa (100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder to
cylinder.
11. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
12. If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it could
indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question.The recommended compression pressures
are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be disassembled
to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.
CYLINDER COMBUSTIONPRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.
WARNING: Do not remove the cooling system pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure
because serious burns from coolant can occur.
1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the pressurecap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.

CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent.
Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.
HYDRAULIC TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
PRELIMINARY STEP TO CHECKING THE HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise, checkengine oil level and oil pressure.
1. Check the engine oil level.
Oil Level Check: stop engine after reaching normal operating temperature
The oil level should never be above the FULL mark on dipstick, or below the ADD mark. Either of
these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize oil level,
check dipstick.
2. Remove oil pressure sensor.
3. Install a reliable oil pressure gauge at oil pressure sensor location.
The oil pressure should be 206.8 - 551.6 kPa (30 - 80 psi) at 2000 rpm.
OIL LEVEL TOO HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark on dipstick, it is possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil while engine
is running and create foam. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
become soft and allow valves to seat noisily.
OIL LEVEL TOO LOW
Low oil level may allow pump to take in air which when fed to the tappets, causes them to become soft and allows
valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of pump through which air canbedrawnwillcreatethesametappet
action. Check the lubrication system from the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the relief valve retainer
cap. When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will
be noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected, engine should be operated at fast idle to allow all of the air
inside of the tappets to be bled out.
VALVE TRAIN NOISE DIAGNOSIS
To determine source of valve train noise, operate engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed and listen for
source of the noise.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisytappets. If such is the case,
noise may be dampened by applying side thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it
can be assumed the noise is in the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for
wear.
Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a heavy click. A light noise isusually caused by excessive leak-down
around the unit plunger which will necessitate replacing the tappet, or bythe plunger partially sticking in the tappet
body cylinder. A heavy click is caused either by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles becoming
wedged between the plunger and the tappet body causing the plunger to stickin the down position. This heavy click
will be accompanied by excessive clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case,
tappet assembly should be removed and replaced.
ENGINE OIL LEAK INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at thearea of the suspected leak. If an oil leak
source is not readily identifiable, thefollowingstepsshouldbefollowed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents maycause rubber to swell, temporarily
stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15
minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color
under a black light.

5. Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., coolant, fuel, oil or other).
6. Make sure all fluid has been removed from the cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting rods, pis-
tons, valves, etc.)
7. Repair engine or components as necessary to prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil into the cylinders, rotateenginetolubricatethecylin-
der walls to prevent damage on restart.
8. Install new spark plugs.
9. Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
10. Fill engine with specified amount of approved oil and install new oil filter.
11. Connect negative battery cable.
12. Start engine and check for any leaks.
REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
1. Perform fuel pressure release procedure (Refer to
14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Disconnect throttle body air inlet duct, remove air
cleaner cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR INTAKE
SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER ELEMENT - REMOVAL).
4. Raise and support the vehicle.
5. Remove the lower engine shield.
6. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING
COOLING SYSTEM).
7. Paint mark and remove the driveshaft (Refer to 3 -
DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER
SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL).
8.Removethetransmission(Referto21-TRANS-
MISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL - REMOVAL).
9. Remove the starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
10. Disconnect the front exhaust pipe flange to
exhaust manifold fasteners (1 and 2).
11. Disconnect the hydraulic cooling fan lines and capture any spillage (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
FA N - R E M O VA L ) .
12. Drain engine oil and remove the oil filter.
13. Separate the air conditioning hose from the fan shroud.
14. Disconnect the lower radiator hose.
15. Disconnect the power steering line support bracket at the lower left ofthe radiator.
16. Loosen both engine mount through bolts.

17. Separate the ground strap (1) from the floor
board, above the right exhaust flange.
18. Lower the vehicle.
19. Discharge air conditioning system (Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/RE-
FRIGERANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
20. Remove the upper radiator hose.
21. Disconnect windshield washer hose at the splice.
22. Remove radiator core support.
23. Disconnect the cooling fan harness connector
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN
- REMOVAL).
24. Remove the radiator and radiator fan assembly
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR -
REMOVAL).
25. Remove the A/C condenser, cap and position the
hoses aside.
26. Disconnect the heater hoses at the top front cover
and at the lower coolant housing and position
aside.
27. Disconnect the oil cooler hoses from the engine
and position aside (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL COOLER & LINES - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
28. Remove accessory drive belt (1).
29. Disconnect and remove generator.
30. Remove power steering pump mounting bolts and
set pump aside.

4. Install the exhaust manifold heat shield nuts (2)
and tighten to 6 Nꞏm (50 in. lbs.).
5. Connect the ground strap to the thermostat hous-
ing and route the electrical and purge harness
underneath the throttle body and attach the con-
nectors.
6. Connect the fuel vapor purge lines.
7. Properly route and connect the spark plug wires.
8. Connect the engine electrical harnesses.
9. Connect the brake booster vacuum hose, fuel line,
cruise control and accelerator cables.
10. Install the A/C lines at the A/C compressor (Refer
to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMB-
ING/A/C COMPRESSOR - REMOVAL).
11. Connect A/C clutch electrical connector (Refer to
24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMB-
ING/A/C COMPRESSOR - REMOVAL).
12. Install the power steering pump.
13. Install the generator.
14. Install the accessory drive belt.
15. Connect the heater hoses to the engine.
16. Install the radiator and cooling fan assembly.
17. Install the A/C condenser.
18. Connect the A/C lines to the condenser.
19. Connect the cooling fan electrical connector.
20. Connect the windshield washer hose at the splice.
21. Install the coolant recovery container.
22. Install the upper radiator hose.
23. Install the throttle body air inlet duct and the air
cleaner element cover.
24. Raise and support the vehicle.
25. Install transmission.
26. Install transmission bolts and tighten bolts to:
7/16 Transmission bolts and washers (2) - 68
Nꞏm (50 ft. lbs.)
Transmission to top of engine - 41 Nꞏm (30 ft.
lbs.)
Transmission to oil pan (3) - 30 Nꞏm (22 ft. lbs.)
27. Install drive shaft.

30. Connect oil cooler lines (4) and connect the oil
pressure sensor (1) and oil temperature sensor
(5).
31. Install the power steering line support bracket at
the radiator.
32. Install lower radiator hose.
33. Connect the cooling fan hydraulic lines (Refer to 7
- COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTAL-
LATION).
34. Connect the A/C line to the fan shroud.
35. Install under body shield.
36. Lower vehicle.
37. Fill engine crankcase with the proper oil to the
correct level (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTE-
NANCE/FLUID TYPES - SPECIFICATIONS).
38. Evacuate and recharge the air conditioning (Refer
to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMB-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
39. Fill the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
40. Fill power steering to proper leveland purge the system (Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
41. Connect the negative battery cable.
42. Start the engine and run until operating temperature is obtained.
43. Turn engine off and inspect for leaks.
44. Recheck all fluid levels, fill as required.
SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Ty pe 9 0° V-1 0
Number of Cylinders 10
Firing Order 1-10-9-4-3-6-5-8-7-2
Compression Ratio 9.6:1
Brake Horsepower 501@5600 RPM
Torque 525 ft. lbs. @4100 RPM
Crankshaft Forged Steel
Cylinder Block Aluminum Alloy with Interference Fit Cast Iron Liners
Connecting Rods Cracked Cap Powdered Metal
Pistons Cast Aluminum Alloy
Metric Standard
Displacement 8.3L 505 cu. in.
Bore 102.4 mm 4.03 in.
Stroke 100.6 mm 3.96 in.
Compression Pressure 1069-1172 kPa 155-170 psi
Engine Weight (Approx.) 284 Kilograms 625 Lbs.

SPRINGS/SEALS-VALVE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
VA LV E S P R I N G T E S T I N G
The valve springs should be tested whenever
removed for inspection, reconditioning, or replace-
ment.
1. Obtain specifications for spring tension at specified
spring length (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICA-
TIONS).
2. Turn table of Special Tool C-647 (2) until the sur-
face is in line with the spring length specification
mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark is on
the front.
3.Placespringoverstudonthetableandliftcom-
pressing lever to set tone device.
4. Pull on torque wrench (beam or dial type) until ping
is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this
instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give
the spring load at test length.
5. Compare reading to the specification. Discard the springs that do not meet specifications.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVE SPRING/SEAL SERVICE IN-CAR
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect secondary ignition wires and remove
spark plugs.
3. Remove cylinder head cover(s) (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
4. Rotate crankshaft until No. 1 piston is at TDC on
compression stroke.
5. Remove rocker arms with pivots. The rocker arms
should not be disturbed and remain on pivot block.
6. With air hose attached to spark plug adapter
installed in No. 1 spark plug hole, apply 620.5 -
689 kPa (90 - 100 psi) air pressure. This is to hold
valves into place while servicing components.
CAUTION: Place a suitable shop towel around the
valve spring being serviced to prevent the valve
retaining locks from entering the engine once the
valve spring is compressed.
7. Using valve spring compressor MD998772-A with
insert 6716-A (1), compress valve spring (2) and
remove valve retaining locks.
8. Release valve spring compressor (1).
9. Remove valve spring and retainer.
10. Remove valve seal.
NOTE: Black valve seals are intake. Brown valve seals are exhaust.

BLOCK-ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of a sand-cast aluminum alloy. The cylinder block has interference-fit cast iron cylinder
liners. The cylinder liners are thermally installed during block manufacturing; they are not serviceable items.
Six iron main bearing caps use four bolts per cap; two vertical and two horizontal. A crankshaft oil scraper is
attached to the main bearing caps via extended main bearing cap bolts and nuts.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern. The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings.
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
CAUTION: Remove all gasket material from cylinder block using a plastic gasket scraper and MoparBrake
Parts Cleaner or the equivalent, this will prevent damage to the cylinder block.
1. When cleaning the cylinder block, remove the oil gallery plugs at the front and rear of the block.
2. Spray compressed air into all oil gallery passages to ensure they are clear of blockage.
3. Use a wooden or plastic scraper and MOPAR
Brake Parts Cleaner or the equivalent to remove the old gasket.
4. Clean the oil passages in the crankshaft with a brush.