2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 lock

VALVES & SEATS - INTAKE/EXHAUST
DESCRIPTION
The valves are made of heat resistant steel and have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. Each valve is actu-
ated by a roller rocker arm which pivots on a stationary lash adjuster. All valves use three bead lock keepers to
retain the springs and promote valve rotation.
REMOVAL
NOTE: The cylinder heads must be removed in
order to perform this procedure.
1. Remove rocker arms and lash adjusters (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL).
2. Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the cam-
shaft.
NOTE: All valve springs and valves are removed in
the same manner; this procedure only covers one
valve and valve spring.
3. Using Special Tool C-3422–B or C-3422–C Valve
Spring Compressor and Special tool 8519 Adapter,
compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the
valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks
enough to be removed.
4. Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.
5. Remove the valve spring compressor.
6. Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
NOTE: Check for sharp edges on the keeper grooves. Remove any burrs from thevalvestembeforeremov-
ing the valve from the cylinder head.
7. Remove the valve from the cylinder head.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.
8. Remove the valve stem seal. Mark the valve for proper installation.

TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
NOTE: Whenever the valves are removed from the
cylinder head it is recommended that the valve
springs be inspected and tested for reuse.
Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear or
damage. Turn table of tool C-647 (1) until surface is in
line with the 40.12 mm (1.579 in.) mark on the
threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place
spring over the stud on the table and lift compressing
lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until a
Ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this
instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give the
spring load at test length. Fractional measurements
are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. Refer
to Specifications Section to obtain specified height and
allowable tensions. Replace any springs that do not
meet specifications.
INSTALLATION
1. Coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and
insert it into the cylinder head.
2. Install the valve stem seal (3). make sure the seal
is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top
of the seal is intact.
3. Install the spring (6) and the spring retainer (2).
4. Using the valve spring compressor, compress the
spring (6) and install the two valve locks (1).
5. Release the valve spring compressor and make
sure the two valve locks and the spring retainer are
fully seated.

6. lubricate the camshaft journal with clean engine oil
then Position the camshaft (with the sprocket dowel
on the left camshaft at 11 o’clock and the right
camshaft at 12 o’clock), then position the camshaft
bearing caps.
7. Install the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts.
Tighten the bolts 9–13 Nꞏm (100 in. lbs.) in
1⁄2turn
increments in the sequence shown.
8. Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and rocker
arms.

SPRINGS-VALVE
DESCRIPTION
The valve springs are made from high strength chrome silicon steel. The springs are common for intake and
exhaust applications. The valve spring seat is integral with the valve stem seal, which is a positive type seal to
control lubrication.
REMOVAL
1. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
2. Using Special Tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover (2),
remove the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
3. Remove the spark plug for the cylinder the valve
spring and seal are to be removed from.
4. Apply shop air to the cylinder to hold the valves in
place when the spring is removed
NOTE: All eight valve springs and seals are
removed in the same manner; this procedure only
covers one valve seal and valve spring.
5. Using Special Tool 8387 Valve Spring Compressor,
compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the
valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks
enough to be removed.
6. Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.
7. Remove the valve spring compressor.
8. Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
9. Remove the valve stem seal.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron.The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide
high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate isbolted to the block. The block design
allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat
is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2).
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
The front and rear oil galley holes.
The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealantwith Teflon 592 to the threads of the
front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 Nꞏm (177in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch
NPT plugs to 27 Nꞏm (240 in. lbs.) torque.

INSPECTION
1. It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to mea-
sure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore
gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.)
INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not
available, do not use an inside micrometer.
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at
three levels below top of bore. Start perpendicular
(across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crank-
shaft and then take two additional reading.
3. Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise to
the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the
bore.
4. Determine taper by subtracting the smaller diame-
ter from the larger diameter.
5. Rotate measuring device 90° and repeat steps
above.
6. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the dif-
ference between each measurement.
7. If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.015 mm
(0.0006 inch), the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper orout- of-round condition exceeds these
maximum limits, the cylinder block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore
after the engine has been in use for a period of time.

CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast iron. The crankshaft is a crosshaped four throw design with eight
counterweights for balancing purposes. The crankshaft is supported by five select fit main bearings with the number
three serving as the thrust washer location. The main journals of the crankshaft are cross drilled to improve rod
bearing lubrication. The number eight counterweight has provisions for crankshaft position sensor target wheel
mounting. The select fit main bearing markings are located on the rear sideof the target wheel. The crankshaft oil
seals are one piece design. The front oil seal is retained in the timing chain cover, and the rear seal is pressed in
to a bore formed by the cylinder block and the bedplate assembly.
REMOVAL
NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine, the engine must be removed from the vehicle.
1. Remove the engine. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - REMOVAL).
2. Remove the engine oil pump. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted to
the cylinder block in three locations and will remain attached to block when removing oil pan. Gasket can
not be removed with oil pan.
3. Remove oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the oil pump pickup tube and oil pan gasket /windage tray.
5. Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the location of the three stud bolts for installation.
6. Remove the connecting rods from the crankshaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on
or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear-
ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as
not to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing
main bearing halves in the wrong position will
cause sever damage to the crankshaft.
NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it.
Use these points only. The pry points are on both
the left and right sides, only the left side is shown.
7. Carefully pry on the pry points to loosen the bed-
plate then remove the bedplate.
CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use
care not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
8. Remove the crankshaft.

INSPECTION
NOTE: Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bearing bores and main bearing bores for scoring, blueing or
severe scratches. Further disassembly may be required.
If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston and rod
assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinder block main bearing bores show damage the engine must be replaced.
1. If required, remove the main bearing halves from the cylinder block and bedplate.
2. Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all oil and
sealant residue.
3. Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition exists the
engine must be replaced.
4. Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scoring, scratches, wear or blueing. If either condition exist replace the
thrust washer.
5. Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces. Replace gasket
as necessary.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Main bearings are select fit. (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) for proper
bearing selections.
1. Lubricate upper main bearing halves with clean
engine oil.
CAUTION: When installing crankshaft, use care
not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
2. Position crankshaft in cylinder block.
3. Install the thrust washers (1).