1993 DODGE TRUCK run flat

•

FRONT
SUSPENSION
AND
AXLE
2 - 5 (4) Front wheels for excessive radial, lateral
runout and unbalance. Refer to Group 22, Wheels and Tires for diagnosis information.
(5) Suspension components for wear and noise. Check
components for correct torque. Refer to Groups 2 and 3, Suspension and Axle for additional information.

WHEEL
ALIGNMENT
MEASUREMENTS/ADJUSTMENTS
The front wheel alignment positions must be set to
the specified limits. This will prevent abnormal tire
tread wear. The equipment manufacturer's recommenda­
tions for use of their
equipment
should always
be followed. All
damaged
front suspension sys­
tem components
should
be replaced. Do not at­ tempt to straighten any
bent
component.

CAMBER AND CASTER-2WD VEHICLES Camber and caster angle adjustments involve repo­
sitioning the upper suspension arm cam adjustment
bolts (Fig. 2). Alignment adjustments are accom­
plished by loosening the nuts and changing the posi­
tion of the cam bolt.
(1) Remove all foreign material from the adjust­
ment bolt threads.
(2) Record the camber and caster measurements
before loosening the adjustment bolt nuts.
(3) The camber angle should be adjusted as near as
possible to the preferred angle. The caster should be
the same at both sides of the vehicle. Refer to the Specifications chart.
CAMBER AND CASTER—4WD VEHICLES For 4WD vehicles, the correct wheel camber (verti­
cal tilt) angle is factory preset at zero degree (0°).
Camber cannot be altered by adjustment.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to
adjust
the
camber
an­
gle by
heating
or bending the axle or any
suspen­

sion
component. If camber angle is
incorrect,
the
component(s)
causing
an
incorrect
angle must be replaced.
(1) It is important that the camber (vertical tilt)
angle be the same for both front wheels.
(2) The camber angle should be measured with ac­
curate wheel alignment equipment. The acceptable
range is -1° to +1°. Refer to the Specifications chart.
Road test the vehicle and observe the steering
wheel return-to-center position. Before road testing,
check
and
correct
the tire
inflation pressures. Inflate
both
of the front tires
with exactly the
same
pressure.
During the road test, make vehicle turns to both
the left and right. If the steering wheel returns to­
ward the center position unassisted, the caster angle is correct. However, if the steering wheel does not re­ turn toward the center position unassisted, an incor­
rect caster angle is probable.
(1) The caster angle is factory preset at positive
two degrees
(
+
2°).
The acceptable range is +1/2° to +
3
1/2°.
(2) The caster angle should be measured with ac­
curate wheel alignment equipment.
(3) Caster angle can be adjusted by installing ta­
pered shims between the front axle pads and the spring brackets. The caster angle should be adjusted
as near as possible to the preferred angle.
(4) Record the caster measurement before remov­
ing the original shims from the spring pads.
(5) The caster should be the same at both sides of
the vehicle. Refer to the Specifications chart.
RN1030

Fig.
2 Caster &
Camber
Adjustment Location—2WD
Vehicles

WHEEL TOE POSITION The wheel toe position adjustment should be the fi­
nal front wheel alignment adjustment. In all in­ stances, follow the equipment manufacturer's
recommended procedure.
(1) Secure the steering wheel with the front wheels
in the straight-ahead position. For vehicles equipped
with power steering, start the engine before straight­ ening the wheels.
With power steering, the engine should be op­
erating during the wheel toe position adjust­
ment.
(2) Loosen the tie rod adjustment sleeve clamp
bolts (Fig. 3).
(3) Adjust the wheel toe position by rotating the
tie rod adjustment sleeve (Fig. 3). Rotate each tie-rod end in the direction of
sleeve rotation during the adjustment (Fig. 3).
This will ensure that both tie-rod ends are at the center of their travel.
(4) If applicable, turn the ignition switch off.

•

BRAKES
i - 3 BRAKE DIAGNOSIS

INDEX

page

Brake
Warning Lights
3

Diagnosing
Brake Problems .................
4

Diagnosis
Procedures
3

Low
Vacuum
Switch—Diesel
Models
3
page

Master
Cylinder/Power Booster Test
5

Power
Booster
Check
Valve Test .............
6

Power
Booster
Vacuum
Test .................
6

Testing Diesel
Engine
Vacuum
Pump
Output
.... 6

DIAGNOSIS
PROCEDURES
Brake diagnosis involves determining
if the
prob­
lem
is
related
to a
mechanical, hydraulic
or
vacuum
operated component.
A
preliminary check, road test­
ing
and
component inspection
can all be
used
to de­

termine
a
problem cause. Road testing will either verify proper brake opera­
tion
or
confirm
the
existence
of a
problem. Compo­ nent inspection will,
in
most cases, identify
the
actual part causing
a
problem. The first diagnosis step
is the
preliminary check. This
involves inspecting fluid level, parking brake action,
wheel
and
tire condition, checking
for
obvious leaks
or

component damage
and
testing brake pedal response. A road test will confirm
the
existence
of a
problem.
Final diagnosis procedure involves road test analysis and
a
visual inspection
of
brake components.

BRAKE
WARNING LIGHTS
The
red
brake warning light
is
connected
to the

parking brake switch
and to the
pressure differential switch
in the
combination valve. The
red
light will illuminate when
the
parking
brakes
are
applied
or
when
a
fluid pressure drop
oc­
curs
in the
front
or
rear brake circuit.
The
light will
also illuminate
for
approximately
2-4
seconds
at en­

gine start
up.
This
is a
self test feature designed
to

check bulb
and
circuit operation each time
the en­

gine
is
started. The amber antilock light
is
connected
to the
anti-
lock rear brake hydraulic valve.
The
light will illu­
minate
if a
fault occurs within
the
antilock system.

LOW VACUUM SWITCH-DIESEL MODELS
On diesel models,
the red
brake warning light
is
also
used
to
alert
the
driver
of a low
brake booster vacuum
condition.
The
warning light
is in
circuit with
a
vacuum
warning switch mounted
on the
driver side fender
panel.
The
vacuum side
of the
switch
is
connected
to the

power brake booster.
The
electrical side
of the
switch
is
connected
to the
brake warning light. The
low
vacuum switch monitors booster vacuum
level whenever
the
engine
is
running.
If
booster vac­
uum falls below
8.5
inches vacuum
for a
minimum
of
10 seconds,
the
switch completes
the
circuit
to the

warning light causing
it to
illuminate.
The
warning light
is
designed
to
differentiate between
a low
vac­
uum condition
and a
hydraulic circuit fault.

PRELIMINARY
BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition
of
tires
and
wheels. Damaged
wheels
and
worn, damaged,
or
underinflated tires
can
cause pull, shudder, tramp,
and a
condition similar
to
grab.

(2)
If
complaint
was
based
on
noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front
and
rear
of

vehicle
and
listen
for
noise that might
be
caused
by

loose, worn
or
damaged suspension
or
steering compo­

nents.

(3) Inspect brake fluid level
and
condition. Note
that
the
front disc brake reservoir fluid level will drop
in
proportion
to
normal lining wear. Also note
that brake fluid tends
to
darken over time. This
is normal
and
should
not be
mistaken
for
con­
tamination.
If the
fluid
is
still clear
and
free
of

foreign material,
it is OK.

(a)
If
fluid level
is
abnormally
low,
look
for
evi­
dence
of
leaks
at
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake-
lines
and
master cylinder.
(b)
If
fluid appears contaminated, drain
out a

sample.
If
fluid
is
separated into layers,
or
obvi­
ously contains
oil or a
substance other than brake
fluid,
the
system seals
and
cups will have
to be re­

placed
and the
hydraulic system flushed.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement
and
full release
of
cables
and
pedal. Also
note
if
vehicle
was
being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does
not
bind
and has
adequate free play.
If
pedal
lacks free play, check pedal
and
power booster
for be­

ing loose
or for
bind condition.
Do not
road test until
condition
is
corrected.
(6)
If
components checked appear
OK,
road test
the

vehicle.

ROAD
TESTING (1)
If
complaint involved
low
brake pedal, pump
the pedal
and
note
if the
pedal comes back
up to
nor­ mal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral
and
engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under steady foot pressure.

•

BRAKES
5 - 5 Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or
thickness variation, or out of round brake drums are
the primary causes of pulsation. Other causes are loose
wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged tires.

PULL A
front pull condition could be the result of con­
taminated lining in one caliper, seized caliper piston,
binding caliper, loose caliper, loose or corroded slide

pins,
improper brakeshoes, or a damaged rotor.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo­
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi­
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops.
The cause is a combination of brake drag fol­
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in fa­
vor of the normally functioning brake unit.
When diagnosing a change in pull condition, re­
member that pull will return to the original direction
if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is not seriously damaged).

REAR BRAKE GRAB
OR
PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by an improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cable, contaminated
lining, bent or binding shoes and support plates, or im­
properly assembled components. This is particularly
true when only one rear wheel is involved. However,
when both rear wheels are affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve could be at fault.

BRAKES
DO NOT
HOLD
AFTER
DRIVING
THROUGH
DEEP
WATER
PUDDLES

This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by driv­
ing with the brakes very lightly applied for a few min­

utes.
However, if the lining is thoroughly wet and dirty,
disassembly and cleaning will be necessary.

BRAKE NOISE

Squeak/Squeal
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con­
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded in the brake lining can also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brakeshoes in spots, metal-to-metal con­
tact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue, ro­ tors can become so scored that replacement is necessary.
Thump/Clunk

Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre­
quently not caused by brake components. In many

cases,
such noises are caused by loose or damaged steering, suspension, or engine components. How­
ever, calipers that bind on the slide pins, or slide sur­

faces,
can generate a thump or clunk noise. Worn
out, improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled
rear brakeshoes can also produce a thump noise.

Chatter
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional
causes of chatter are out of tolerance rotors, brake
lining not securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel
bearings and contaminated brake lining.
Brakelining Contamination Brakelining contamination is usually a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, driving through
deep water puddles, or lining that has become cov­
ered with grease and grit during repair.
Wheel and
Tire
Problems Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and re­ covers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel
tramp and generate shudder during brake operation. A tire with internal damage such as a severe
bruise or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.

MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER TEST
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. Hissing noise indicates a vacuum leak. Correct any leaks before proceeding. (2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu­
tral (3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted. (4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. (a) If pedal holds firm, proceed to step (5).
(b) If pedal does not hold firm and falls away,
master cylinder is faulty (internal leakage). (5) Start engine and note pedal action. (a) If pedal falls away slightly under light foot
pressure then holds firm, proceed to step (6). (b) If pedal is effort is high, or no pedal action is
discernible, power booster or vacuum check valve is
faulty. Install known good check valve and repeat steps (2) through (5).

•

CLUTCH
6-17
CLUTCH PEDAL INSTALLATION

(1) Lubricate pedal shaft, pedal shaft bore and all
bushings with Mopar Multi Mileage grease. (2) Insert pedal pin into cylinder push rod. Then
position clutch pedal in support. (3) Slide pedal shaft through clutch pedal bore and
bushings. (4) Install bolt that retains pedal shaft in support.
(5) Secure push rod to pedal pin with wave washer,
flat washer and retaining ring.

FLYWHEEL SERVICE
Inspect the flywheel whenever the clutch disc,
cover and housing are removed for service. Check
condition of the flywheel face, hub, ring gear teeth,
and flywheel bolts. Minor scratches, burrs, or glazing on the flywheel
face can be scuff sanded with 180 grit emery cloth. However, the flywheel should be replaced if the disc
contact surface is severely scored, heat checked,
cracked, or obviously worn. Cleanup of minor flywheel scoring should be per­
formed with surface grinding equipment. Remove
only enough material to reduce scoring (approximate­
ly 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal is not rec­
ommended. Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe
and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive
stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or
warpage after installation; it can also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release. Check flywheel runout if misalignment is sus­
pected. Runout should not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003
in.).
Measure runout at the outer edge of the fly­
wheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the dial in­
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the
flywheel attaching bolts. Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Check condition of the flywheel hub and attaching

bolts.
Replace the flywheel if the hub exhibits cracks in the area of the attaching bolt holes. Install new attaching bolts whenever the flywheel
is replaced and use Mopar Lock N' Seal, or Loctite
242 on replacement bolt threads.
Recommended flywheel bolt torques are:
• 75 N»m (55 ft. lbs.) for gas engine flywheels
• 137 N*m (101 ft. lbs.) for diesel flywheels Inspect the teeth on the starter ring gear. If the
teeth are worn or damaged, the flywheel should
be replaced as an assembly. This is the recom­ mended and preferred method of repair.
In cases where a new flywheel is not readily avail­

able,
a replacement ring gear can be installed. How­
ever, the following precautions must be observed to
avoid damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
(a) Mark position of the old gear for alignment
reference on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this
purpose.
(b) Wear protective goggles or approved safety
glasses. Also wear heat resistent gloves when han­
dling a heated ring gear. (c) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the
way through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut­ off wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel
or punch. (d) The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating in order to install it. The method of heating and expanding the gear is extremely important. Ev­
ery surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem­
perature required for uniform expansion is 325-350° F.

CAUTION:
Never
use an
oxy/acetylene torch
to re­
move
the old
gear,
or to
heat
and
expand
a new

gear.
The
high temperature
of the
torch flame
will

cause
localized heating
and
damage
the
flywheel.
In

addition,
using
the
torch
to
heat
a
replacement gear

will
cause uneven heating
and
expansion.
The
torch
flame
will
also
anneal
the
gear
teeth
resulting
in
rapid wear
and
damage
after
installation.

(e) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion. A shop press and
suitable press plates should be used to install the
gear if at all possible.
(f) Be sure to wear eye and hand protection.
Heat resistent gloves and safety goggles are needed
for personal safety. Also use metal tongs, vise
grips,
or similar tools to position the gear as neces­sary for installation.
(g) Allow the flywheel and ring gear to cool
down before installation. Set the assembly on a
workbench and let it cool in normal shop air.

CAUTION:
Do not
use water,
or
compressed
air to

cool
the
flywheel.
The
rapid cooling produced
by

water
or
compressed
air can
distort,
or
crack
the
gear
and
flywheel.

•

LAMPS
8L - 3
EXTERIOR
LAMPS
SERWICE PROCEDURES

INDEX

page

Cargo
Lamp
7

Clearance Lamps
for
Dual Wheel Model
........
5
Daytime Running
Light
Module (Canada Only)
... 8

Front
Park
and
Turn Signal Lamp Bulb
4

Headlamp
Adjustment
Using
Alignment
Screen
... 3

Headlamp
Alignment
3

Headlamp
Alignment
Preparation
3
page

Headlamp Switch
4

License
Lamp
............................
7

Sealed
Beam Replacement
4

Side
Marker Lamp
and
Bulb
. 5

Tail,
Stop, Turn Signal, Rear Side Marker
and

Back-Up
Lamps
5

Underhood Lamp
8

HEADLAMP
ALIGNMENT
Headlamps
can be
aligned using
the
screen method
provided
in
this section. Alignment Tool C4466-A
or

equivalent
can
also
be
used. Refer
to
instructions
provided with
the
tool
for
proper procedures.
The
preferred headlamp alignment setting
is 0 for

the left/right adjustment
and
1" down
for the up/
down adjustment.

HEADLAMP
ALIGNMENT PREPARATION
(1) Verify headlamp dimmer switch
and
high beam
indicator operation. (2) Correct defective components that could hinder
proper headlamp alignment. (3) Verify proper tire inflation. (4) Clean headlamp lenses.
(5) Verify that luggage area
is not
heavily loaded.
(6) Fuel tank should
be
FULL.
Add 2.94 kg (6.5

lbs.)
of
weight over
the
fuel tank
for
each estimated
gallon
of
missing fuel.

HEADLAMP
ADJUSTMENT USING ALIGNMENT

SCREEN

ALIGNMENT SCREEN PREPARATION (1) Position vehicle
on a
level surface perpendicu­
lar
to a
flat wall
7.62
meters
(25 ft)
away from front
of headlamp lens.
(2)
If
necessary, tape
a
line
on the
floor
7.62

meters
(25 ft)
away from
and
parallel
to the
wall.

CENTER
OF

VEHICLE
TO
CENTER
OF

HEADLAMP
LENS

VEHICLE
CENTERLINE" LOW BEAM
HOT

SPOT AREA FLOOR
TO

CENTER
OF

HEADLAMP
LENS

PREFERRED
HOT SPOT
LOCATION

7.62
METERS
(25
FEET)

FRONT
OF

HEADLAMP
938L-25X

Fig.
1 Headlamp
Alignment
Screen
—Typical

-
CHIME/BUZZER WARNING SYSTEMS
8U - 1

CHIME/BUZZER
WARNING SYSTEMS

CONTENTS
page

DIAGNOSIS

GENERAL
INFORMATION
page

1
KEY-IN SWITCH REPLACEMENT
3

1
OPERATION
1

GENERAL
INFORMATION
The buzzer module is located to the right of the
steering column (Fig. 1). The buzzer sounds an audi­
ble warning tone in any of the following conditions: • Vehicle lights are ON when the driver's door is
opened.
• The key is in the ignition and the driver's door is
open. • The ignition is switched ON and the driver's seat
belt is not buckled. Buzzer will quit after 4 to 8 sec­
onds.
In addition to the buzzer, a seat belt light in­
dicator turns on as a reminder to fasten seat belt.

BUZZER

MODULE

INTERMITTENT

WIPE MODULE

Fig, 1 Buzzer Module Location

OPERATION
Battery voltage for module operation is supplied to
two pins. Battery voltage is present at pin 7 at all
times (Figs. 2 and 3). Pin 1 receives voltage when
the ignition switch is turned ON.
SEA T BELT WARNING To sound the seat belt warning, the module needs:
• battery voltage at the ignition switch input (Pin 1)
• a ground at the seat belt switch.
• a ground at Pin 3 to activate the timer. This occurs when the seat belt switch is closed be­
cause the driver's seat belt is not buckled. The "fas­
ten belt" light will also turn on along with the
warning sound. KEY IN IGNITION
To sound the "key in ignition" alarm, the module

needs:

• the ignition key warning switch must be closed
• the driver's door jamb switch must be closed. These conditions ground pin 6 of the module. These
switches are closed when the driver's door is open
and the key is in the ignition.
LIGHTS ON To sound the "lights on" warning, the module

needs:

• the headlamp switch must be closed
*> the driver's door jamb switch must be closed. These conditions ground pin 6 of the module. These
switches are closed when the driver's door is open
and the headlamp switch is on.

DIAGNOSIS
If the buzzer unit does not operate as described,
check the two fuses for pins 1 and 7 (Figs. 2, 3 and 4) and replace as required. If the fuses are not defec­

tive,
perform the following tests to determine if the
problem is in the module or in the wiring. Using a flat blade screwdriver, release the locking plastic clip
while carefully pulling out the module. Plug in a known good module and check its operation. If the
problem is not corrected by replacing the module, re­ move the module and continue as follows:
VOLTAGE TESTS Ignition in run, measure between the following
pins and vehicle ground.
• Measure voltage at buzzer module connector pin 1.
Meter should read battery voltage. If not, repair open
to ignition switch.
Turn ignition off and remove key from igni­

tion.

• Measure voltage at buzzer module connector pin 7.
Meter should read battery voltage. If not, repair open
to fuse. Battery voltage is present at Pin 7 at all
times regardless of key position.

9
- 28 3.9L
ENGINE
•
accompanied by excessive clearance between the
valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either
case,
tappet assembly should be removed for inspec­
tion and cleaning.
The valve train generates a noise very much like a
light tappet noise during normal operation. Care
must be taken to ensure that tappets are making the
noise. In general, if more than one tappet seems to
be noisy, its probably not the tappets.

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the air cleaner.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover.
(3) Remove rocker assembly and push rods. Iden­
tify push rods to ensure installation in original loca­
tion.
(4) Remove intake manifold.
(5) Remove yoke retainer and aligning yokes.
(6) Slide Hydraulic Tappet Remover/Installer Tool

C-4129-A
through opening in cylinder head and seat
tool firmly in the head of tappet.
(7) Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion.
If all tappets are to be removed, identify tappets to
ensure installation in original location. (8) If the tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored,
scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to
next oversize. Replace with oversize tappet.

CAUTION:
The
plunger
and
tappet bodies
are not

interchangeable.
The
plunger
and
valve must
al­

ways
be fitted to the
original body.
It is
advisable
to

work
on one
tappet
at a
time
to
avoid mixing
of
parts.
Mixed parts
are not
compatible.
DO NOT
dis­

assemble
a
tappet
on a
dirty
work bench.

DISASSEMBLE (1) Pry out plunger retainer spring clip (Fig. 17).
(2) Clean varnish deposits from inside of tappet
body above plunger cap.
(3) Invert tappet body and remove plunger cap,
plunger, check valve, check valve spring, check valve retainer and plunger spring (Fig. 17). Check valve
could be flat or ball.
ASSEMBLE (1) Clean all tappet parts in a solvent that will re­
move all varnish and carbon.
(2) Replace tappets that are unfit for further ser­
vice with new assemblies. (3) If plunger shows signs of scoring or wear, in­
stall a new tappet assembly. If valve is pitted, or
valve seat on end of plunger is prevented from seat­ ing, install a new tappet assembly.
(4) Assemble tappets (Fig. 17).

INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate tappets.
PLUNGER
SPRING CHECK
BALL PLUNGER
RETAINER
SPRING CLIP
ROLLER

TAPPET
BODY RETAINER
I
PLUNGER
CHECK VALVE
SPRING PLUNGER
CAP
J9109-220
Fig.
17 Hydraulic
Tappet
Assembly

(2) Install tappets and push rods in their original
positions. Ensure that the oil feed hole in the side of
the tappet body faces up (away from the crankshaft).
(3) Install aligning yokes with ARROW toward
camshaft.
(4) Install yoke retainer. Tighten the bolts to 23
N*m (200 in. lbs.) torque. Install intake manifold.
(5) Install push rods in original positions. (6) Install rocker arms.
(7) Install cylinder head cover.
(8) Start and operate engine. Warm up to normal
operating temperature.

CAUTION:
To
prevent damage
to
valve mechanism,
engine must
not be run
above fast idle
until
all hy­
draulic tappets have
filled
with
oil and
have become
quiet.

VALVE
TIMING
(1) Turn crankshaft until the No.6 exhaust valve
is closing and No.6 intake valve is opening. (2) Insert a 6.350 mm (1/4 inch) spacer between
rocker arm pad and stem tip of No.l intake valve.
Allow spring load to bleed tappet down giving in ef­ fect a solid tappet. (3) Install a dial indicator so plunger contacts
valve spring retainer as nearly perpendicular as pos­ sible. Zero the indicator. (4) Rotate the crankshaft clockwise (normal run­
ning direction) until the valve has lifted 0.254 mm (0.010 inch). The timing of the crankshaft should
now read from 10° before top dead center to 2° after
top dead center. Remove spacer.

CAUTION:
DO NOT
turn
crankshaft
any
further

clockwise
as
valve spring might bottom
and
result in serious damage.

(5) If reading is not within specified limits: (a) Check sprocket index marks.
(b) Inspect timing chain for wear. (c) Check accuracy of DC mark on timing indica­
tor.

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS (CONT.f

Oil
Pump

Clearance
Over
Rotors
(Max.).....
0.1016
mm (0.004 in)

Cover
Out-of-Flat
(Max.)
0.0381 mm (0.0015 in)

Inner
Rotor
Thickness
(Min.) ...... 20.955 mm (0.825 in)

Outer
Rotor

Clearance
(Max.)
0.3556 mm (0.014 in)

Diameter
(Min.) 62.7126 mm (2.469 in)

Thickness
(Min.) . . ........ 20.955 mm
(0.825 in)

Tip
Clearance
Between
Rotors
(Max).
. 0.2032 mm
(0.008 in)

Oil
Pressure

At
Curb
Idle
Speed*
41.4 kPa
(6 psi)

At
3000 rpm 207-552 kPa
(30-80 psi)

Oil
Pressure
Switch

Actuating
Pressure
(Min.) ... 34.5-48.3 kPa (5-7 psi)

*CAUTION:
If
pressure
is
ZERO
at
curb
idle,
DO
NOT run
engine
at
3,000
rpm.

Oil
Filter
Bypass
Valve
Setting
. 62-103 kPa (9-15 psi)

Pistons

Clearance
at
Top
of
Skirt
0.0127-0.0381 mm
(0.0005-0.0015 in)

Land
Clearance
(Diametrical) 0.635-1.016 mm (0.025-0.040 in)

Piston
Length
86.360 mm (3.40 in)

Piston
Ring
Groove
Depth
Nos.
1 and 2 4.572-4.826 mm (0.180-0.190 in)

No.
3 3.810-4.064 mm (0.150-0.160 in)

Weight
592.6-596.6
grams
(20.90-21.04
oz)
Piston
Pins

Clearance
In
Piston
0.00635-0.01905 mm (0.00025-0.00075 in)

In
Rod
(Interference) 0.0178-0.0356 mm (0.0007-0.0014 in)

Diameter.
24.996-25.001 mm (0.9841-0.9843 in)

End
Play..
NONE

Length
75.946-76.454 mm (2.990-3.010 in)

Piston
Rings

Ring
Gap
Compression
Rings
0.254-0.508 mm (0.010-0.020 in)

Oil
Control
(Steel
Rails)
0.254-1.270 mm (0.010-0.050 in)

Ring
Side
Clearance
Compression
Rings
0.038-0.076 mm
(0.0015-0.0030 in)

Oil
Ring
(Steel
Rails)
0.06-0.21
mm
(0.002-0.008 in)

Ring
Width
Compression
Rings
1.971-1.989 mm
(0.0776-0.0783 in)

Oil
Ring
(Steel
Rails)
3.848-3.975 mm (0.1515-0.1565 in)

Valves
Face
Angle
43.25° - 43.75°

Head
Diameter

Intake
48.666 mm (1.916 in)

Exhaust
41.250 mm (1.624 in)

Length
(Overall)
Intake
124.28-125.92 mm (4.893-4.918 in)

Exhaust
124.64-125.27 mm (4.907-4.932 in)

Lift
(Zero
Lash)
10.973 mm (0.432 in)

Stem
Diameter 7.899-7.925 mm (0.311-0.312 in)

Stem-to-Guide
Clearance
0.0254-0.0762 mm
(0.001-0.003 in)

Max.
Allowable
(Rocking
Method).
. 0.4318 mm (0.017 in)

Guide
Bore
Diameter (Std) 7.950-7.976 mm (0.313-0.314 in)
J9309-32