1988 PONTIAC FIERO transmission

REAR AXLE 4B-3
Noise which originates in other places cannot be
corrected by adjustment or replacement of parts in the
differential. It should also be remembered that rear
axle gears, like any other mechanical device, are not
absolutely quiet and should be accepted as being
commercially quiet unless some abnormal noise is
present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise under
standard conditions, observe the following:
1. Select a level smooth asphalt road to reduce tire
noise and body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant to assure correct level,
then drive car far enough to thoroughly warm up
rear axle lubricant.
3. Note speed and RPM at which noise occurs. Then
stop car and with automatic transmission in neutral,
run engine slowly up and down through engine speeds, corresponding to car speed at which noise
was most pronounced, to determine if it is caused by
exhaust, muffler roar or other engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces,
but rear axle noise does not. Temporarily
inflating all tires to approximately 50 pounds
pressure for
test purposes only will materially
alter noise caused by tires, but will not affect noise
caused by rear axle. Rear axle noise usually stops
when coasting at speeds under 30 miles per hour;
however, tire noise continues, but with lower
tone, as car speed is reduced. Rear axle noise
usually changes when comparing acceleration
and coast, but tire noise remains about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise
by noting if noise varies with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration; exhaust
and axle noise show variations under these
conditions while tire noise remains constant and
is more pronounced at speeds of 20 to 30 miles
per hour. Further check for tire noise by driving
car over smooth pavements or dirt roads (not
gravel) with tires at normal pressure. If noise is
caused by tires, it will noticeably change or
disappear and reappear with changes in road
surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause
noise which may be confused with rear axle
noises; however, front wheel bearing noise does
not change when comparing drive and coast.
Light application of brakes while holding car
speed steady will often cause wheel bearing noise
to diminish, as this takes some weight off the
bearing. Front wheel bearings may be easily
checked for noise by jacking up the wheels and
spinning them, also by shaking wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when
correctly installed. Check to see that no metallic
contact exists between the spring and spring
opening in frame or between upper and lower
control arm bushings and frame or axle housing
brackets.
Metal-to-metal contact at those points
may result in telegraphing road noise and normal axle
noise which would not be objectionable if
dampened by bushings.
AXLE NOISES
Gear Noise
After the noise has been determined as being in
the
axle by following the above appraisal procedure,
the type of axle noise should be determined to aid in
maki~~g repairs if necessary.
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 20 to
55 mph
under four driving conditions:
1. Drive - Acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Road Load - Car driving load or constant speed.
3. Float
- Using
enough throttle to keep the car from
driving the engine
- car slows down gradually but
engine still pulls slightly.
4. Coast
- Throttle closed and car in gear. Gear
noise most frequently has periods where noise is
more prominent, usually 30 to 40 mph and 50 to
55 mph.
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce more of a rough
growl or grating sound, rather than the whine typical
of gear noise. Bearing noise frequently "wow-wows" at
bearing rpm, indicating a defective pinion or rear axle
case side bearing. This noise could easily be confused
with rear wheel bearing noise. Inspect and replace as
required.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
A rough rear wheel bearing produces a noise
which continues with car coasting at low speed and
transmission in neutral. Noise may diminish some by
gentle braking. With rear wheels jacked up, spin rear
wheels by hand while listening at hubs for evidence of
rough (noisy) wheel bearing.
I(noclc At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn
universal joints or a side gear hub counterbore in a case
that has worn oversize. Inspect and replace universal
joint or case and side gear as required.
Baclclash Clunk
Excessive clunk with acceleration and
deceleration is caused by worn differential pinion shaft,
excessive clearance between axle shaft and side gear
splines, excessive clearance between side gear hub and
counterbore in case worn pinion and side gear teeth,
worn thrust washers and excessive drive pinion and
rear gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace as
required, selecting close fitting parts when possible.
Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.
REAR AXLE STANDARD AND LIMITED-SLIP
1. Noise is the same in "Drive" or "Coast".
a. Road noise.
b. Tire noise.
c. Front wheel bearing noise.

4B-4 REAR AXLE
d. Incorrect driveline angle.
Noise changes on a different type of road.
a. Road noise.
b. Tire noise.
Noise tone lowers as car speed is lowered.
a. Tire noise.
Similar noise is produced with car standing and
driving.
a. Engine noise.
b. Transmission noise.
Vibration. a. Rough rear wheel bearing.
b. Unbalanced
or damaged propeller shaft.
c. Tire unbalance.
d. Worn
universal joint in propeller shaft.
e. Incorrect driveline angle.
f. Mis-indexed propeller shaft at pinion
flange.
g. Pinion
flange
runout too great.
A knock or click approximately every two
revolutions of the rear wheel.
a. A rear wheel bearing.
Noise most pronounced on turns.
a. Rear
axle side gear and pinion noise.
A continuous low pitch whirring or scraping
noise starting at relatively low speed.
a. Pinion bearing noise.
Drive noise, coast noise or float noise.
a. Ring and
pinion gear noise.
Clunk on acceleration or deceleration.
a. Worn rear
axle pinion shaft in case or side
gear hub counterbore in case worn oversize.
b. Insufficient
lubrication on propeller shaft
slip yoke.
c. Worn U-joints on
propeller shaft. Front or
rear.
Groan in "Forward" or "Reverse".
a. Wrong
or contaminated lube in rear axle.
b. Worn bushings.
Chatter on turns.
a. Wrong
or contaminated lube in rear axle.
b. Clutch
cone worn and/or
spring(s) worn.
Clunk or knock on rough road operation.
a. Excessive end play of axle shafts to
differential cross shaft.
b. Worn bushings.
PRE-REPAIR INVESTIGATION AND TROUBLE
DIAGNOSIS
A careful1 diagnosis of the rear axle prior to
disassembly will often reveal valuable information as to
the extent and type of repairs or adjustments necessary.
Since frequent causes of axle noises are improper
backlash, pinion bearing pre-load, or side bearing
pre-load, or a combination, a few simple adjustments
may be all that are necessary to correct a problem.
Therefore, before removing the rear axle from the
housing, the following checks should be made with the
results recorded and analyzed:
1) Backlash; 2) Total Assembly
Preload; 3) Tooth Contact Pattern Test;
4)
Fluid Level; and 5) Fluid Contamination.
Use care at all times to keep dirt and other foreign
matter, such as grinder dust, soot or sand, away from
differential to prevent possibility of subsequent failure.
The pinion and ring gear must be completely
assembled, installed and all pre-load and backlash
adjustments completed prior to the start of this method
of pinion depth setting. The following procedure can
be used in place of the gage method of pinion depth
setting.
Gear Tooth Nomenclature
The side of the ring gear tooth which curves
outward, or is convex, is referred to as the "drive" side.
The concave side is the "coast" side. The end of the
tooth nearest center of ring gear is referred to as the
"toe" end. The end of the tooth farthest away from the
center is the "heel" end. Toe end of tooth is smaller
than heel end.
It is very important that tooth contact be tested
before the rear axle carrier assembly is disassembled.
Variations in the carrier or pinion rear bearing may
cause the pinion to be too far away from, or close to,
the ring gear. Thus, the tooth contact must be tested
and corrected, if necessary, or the gears may be noisy.
Tooth Contact Pattern Test
1. Wipe oil out of carrier and carefully clean each
tooth of ring gear.
2. Use gear marking compound part number
1052351 or equivalent and apply this mixture
sparingly to all ring gear teeth, using a medium
stiff brush. When properly used, the area of
pinion tooth contact will be visible when hand
load is applied.
3. Tighten bearing cap bolts to 75
N.m (55 lb. ft.).
4. Expand
brake shoes using parking brake cables
until a torque of 54 to
70 N-m (40-50 lb. ft.) is
required to turn the pinion.
A test made without loading the gears will not
give a satisfactory pattern. Turn pinion flange
with wrench so that ring gear rotates one full
revolution, then reverse rotation so that ring gear
rotates one revolution in opposite direction.
5. Observe
pattern on ring gear teeth and compare
with Fig. 3.
Effects of Increasing Load on Teeth Contact
Pattern
When "load" on ring and pinion gear is
increased, such as when car is accelerated forward
from standstill or from normal drive, the tooth contact
will tend to spread out and, under very heavy load, will
extend from near toe to near heel on the drive side. The
entire contact also tends to shift toward heel under
increasingly heavier loads and will become somewhat
broader with respect to tops and bottoms of teeth. The
patterns obtained by this tooth contact pattern test
approximate a light load and, for this reason, they will
extend only about halfway.

4B-18 REAR AXLE
tire wear patterns. One indication of this condition is
"swerving on acceleration." If swerving on
acceleration is encountered, check the rear wheels for
different tire size, air pressure, or excessively different
wear patterns, and tread depths, before proceeding into
an overhaul operation.
Checking Limited-Slip Operation
1. Place transmisison
in Park position.
2. Raise
rear of vehicle until wheels are off the
ground, remove one wheel and tire assembly.
3. Attach Adapter J 2619-1 to axle shaft flange and
install a 1/2-13 bolt into adapter as shown in Fig.
617,
4. With opposite wheel and tire assembly still on
vehicle and held firmly to prevent turning,
measure torque required to rotate opposite axle
shaft with a torque wrench attached to J 2619-1.
If the torque reading is less than 48
N.m (35 lb.
ft.) the unit should be disassembled and repaired
as required.
5. The Auburn rear axle check with both tires
elevated and transmission in park (differential
case not allowed to rotate).
The torque required to rotate one wheel should
be 169 to 305
N-m (125 to 225 1bs.ft.).
6. This is the Auburn rear axle check with only one
rear wheel raised and transmission in neutral (dif-
ferential case free to rotate). The torque required
to rotate one wheel is
60 to 136 N-m (45 to 100
lbs. ft.)
7. Reinstall wheel and tire assembly.
AUBURN CONE TYPE
This limited slip rear axle transmits torque from
the drive pinion gear to the ring gear and to the case
in the same manner as the conventional rear axle. In
addition, the limited slip rear axle incorporates the use
of cone clutches which tend to lock the axle shafts to
the case, or in effect, to each other.
As driving torque is developed at the rear wheels,
side gear separating loads are developed which load the
rear axle cones. This induced clutch torque capacity re-
sists relative motion between the side gears and the rear
axle case. Therefore, if one wheel is on slippery pave-
ment, such as ice or snow, the other wheel must develop
considerably more torque before the case assembly will
differentiate and allow wheel spin.
The axle shaft torques developed when turning a
corner will overcome the clutch capacities and allow
differentiation.
All rear axle parts of vehicles equipped with this
limited slip rear axle are interchangeable with those
equipped with the conventional rear axle, except for
the case assembly. It is similar in all respects to the
conventional case assembly, with the addition of cone
clutches splined to each side gear.
INOWERVICEABLE) PINION SHAFT SCREW
Figure 6 16 Auburn Cone Type Case
Remove or Disconnect
Figure 6 16
This limited slip rear axle case is non-serviceable,
1. Follow the procedures under standard case
removal in this section.
2. Case side bearings using Tool J-22888.
3. All ring bolts except for two opposite ones.
4. Loosen the two remaining bolts slightly.
5. Tap on the two bolts alternately to loosen ring
gear.
Install or Connect
1.
Ring gear on new case.
NOTICE: Install new ring gear bolts. Never reuse
old bolts.
2. Case side bearings on new case.
3. New case starting with the Side Bearing Preload
Adjustment procedures in this section.
1 -AXLE SHAFT PULLER J-21579
2
-ADAPTER J-2619-1
3-TORQUE WRENCH
Fig.
617 Measuring Limited Slip Rotating Torque

BRAKES 5-3
DIAGNOSIS AND INSPECTION
BRAKE SYSTEM TESTING
(Figures
2 through 4)
Brakes should be tested on dry, clean, reasonably
smooth and level roadway. A true test of brake performance
cannot be made if the roadway is wet, greasy or covered
with loose dirt so that all tires do not grip the road equally.
Testing will also be affected if the roadway is crowned
which would throw the weight of the car toward the wheels
on one side. If the roadway is too rough, the wheels will tend
to bounce. Test brakes at different car speeds with both light and
heavy pedal pressure, avoid locking the brakes and sliding
the tires. Locked brakes and sliding tires do not indicate
brake efficiency, because heavily braked, but turning
wheels will stop the car in less distance than locked brakes.
More tire-to-road friction is present with a heavily braked
turning tire than with a sliding tire. The brake system is designed and balanced to avoid
locking the wheels, except at very high deceleration levels.
The shortest stopping distance and best control is achieved
without brake lock-up.
Because of high deceleration capability, a firmer pedal
may be felt at higher deceleration levels.
External Conditions That Affect Brake Performance
1. Tires. Tires having unequal contact and grip on road
will cause unequal braking. Tires must be equally
inflated and tread pattern of right and left tires must
be approximately equal.
2. Car Loading. A heavily loaded car requires more
braking effort. When a car has unequal loading, the
most heavily loaded wheels require more braking
power than others.
3. Wheel Alignment. Misalignment of the wheels, par-
ticularly excessive camber and caster, will cause the
brakes to pull to one side.
4. Front Wheel Bearings. A loose front wheel bearing
BRAKE FLUID LEAKS
With engine running at idle and the transmission in neu-
tral, depress the brake pedal and hold a constant foot pres-
sure.
If the pedal gradually falls away with the constant
pressure, the hydraulic system may be leaking. Perform a
visual check to confirm any suspected leak.
Check the master cylinder fluid levels. While a slight drop
in reservoir level does result from normal lining wear, an
abnormally low level in either reservoir indicates
a leak in
the system. The hydraulic system may be leaking either
internally or externally. See "Master Cylinder Check."
Also, the system may appear to pass this test but still have
slight leakage.
If fluid levels are normal, check the vacuum booster
pushrod length. If an incorrect length pushrod is found,
adjust or replace the
pushrod. Check the service brake
pedal travel and the parking brake adjustment.
When checking the fluid levels, the master cylinder reser-
voir may be as low as
25 mm (1 inch) from the top if the front
linings are worn. This is not abnormal.
MASTER CYLINDER CHECK
These checks will help locate some master cylinder mal-
functions. Use the Brake Diagnosis Charts to help isolate
the problem if it is not found by using these tests.
1. Check for a cracked master cylinder casting or brake
fluid around the master cylinder. Leaks are indicated
only if there is at least a drop of fluid. A damp condi-
tion is not abnormal.
2. Check for a binding pedal linkage.
3. Disassemble the master cylinder and check for swol-
len or stretched piston
seal(s). If swollen seals are
found, substandard or contaminated brake fluid
should be suspected.
If contaminated, all compo-
nents should be disassembled and cleaned. All rub-
ber components should be replaced and all the pipes
should be flushed.
permits the front wheel to tilt and lose contact with the
SUBSTANDARD OR CONTAMINATED brake shoe linings causing erratic brake operation. BRAKE FLUID
WARNING LAMP OPERATION
The brake system uses a single red "BRAKE" warning
lamp located in the instrument panel cluster. When the
ignition switch is in the "START" position, the "BRAKE"
warning lamp should come on. It should go off when the
ignition switch returns to the "RUN" position.
The following conditions will activate the "BRAKE"
warning lamp:
1. Parking brake applied. The lamp should be on when
tfie parking brake is applied and the ignition switch is
"ON."
2. Pressure differential switch detects a failure. See
"Brake Pressure Differential Warning Switch" in this
section. Improper
brake fluid, mineral oil or water in the fluid may
cause the brake fluid to boil or the rubber components to
deteriorate.
If piston cups are swollen, the rubber parts have dete-
riorated. This deterioration may also be seen by swollen
wheel cylinder piston cups on the drum brake wheels or a
swollen master cylinder cover diaphragm.
If rubber deterioration is evident, disassemble all hydrau-
lic parts and wash with alcohol. Dry these parts with com-
pressed air before assembly to keep alcohol out of the
system. Replace all rubber parts in the system, including
hoses. Check for fluid on the linings. If excessive fluid is
found, replace the linings.
If master cylinder piston seals are satisfactory, check for
leakage or excessive heat conditions. If condition is not
found, drain fluid, flush with brake fluid, fill and bleed the
system.

2.8 LITER V-6 6A2-7
I I Figure 6A2-5 Engine Mounting
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
POWERTRAIN MOUNTS but not down (mount bottomed out), replace the
mount. If there is relative movement between a metal
Engine mounts (Figure 6A2-5) are the plate of the mount and its attaching point, tighten the nonadjustable type and seldom require service. Broken screws or nuts attaching the mount to the transmission or deteriorated mounts should be replaced or cross member^
immediately, because of the added strain placed on
other mounts and drive line components.
Front Mount Replacement
Checking Engine Mounts
1. Disconnect battery.
Front Mount 2. Remove top half of fan shroud.
3. Raise vehicle.
Raise the engine to remove weight from the
4. Remove mount through bolt. mounts and to place a slight tension in the rubber.
Observe both mounts while raising engine. If an engine 5. Raise front of engine and remove
mount exhibits: mount-to-engine
bolts and remove mount.
l
a. Hard rubber surface covered with heat
check cracks;
b. Rubber separated from a metal plate
of the
mount;
c. Rubber split through center, replace the
mount. If there is relative movement
between a metal plate of the mount and its
attaching points, lower the engine on the
mounts and tighten the screws or nuts
attaching the mount to the engine, frame, or
bracket.
Rear Mount
Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Push up and pull
down on the transmission tailshaft while observing the
transmission mount. If the rubber separates from the
metal plate of the mount or if the tailshaft moves up
NOTICE: Raise engine only enough for sufficient
clearance. Check for interference between rear of
engine and cowl panel which could cause
distributor damage.
6. Replace mount to engine and lower engine into
place.
7. Install retaining bolt and torque all bolts to
specifications.
Rear Mount Replacement
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Raise vehicle.
3. Remove mount and support nuts.
4. Raise transmission.
5. Remove mount.

6A2-8 2.8 LITER V-6
6. Install new mount.
7. Lower transmission.
8. Torque nuts to specifications.
Figure 6A2-6 Rocker Arm Cover
ROCKER ARM COVER
Removal (Left)
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Disconnect air management hose (manual
transmission only).
3. Remove plenum and runners and disconnect
throttle body per Section
6E3.
4. Remove A/C bracket.
5. Remove rocker cover reinforcements and nuts.
6. Remove cover. If cover adheres to cylinder head,
shear off by bumping end of rocker arm cover
with palm of hand or rubber mallet. If cover still
will not come loose, CAREFULLY pry until
loose. DO NOT DISTORT SEALING
FLANGE. It may be necessary to remove the two
spark plug wire harness studs in order to get the
rocker cover past the windshield wiper motor.
Installation (Left)
1. Clean sealing surface on cylinder head, intake
manifold and rocker cover. Make sure sealing
flange or rocker cover is not bent.
2. Place a 3mm diameter
(1/8") dot of RTV sealant,
# 1052917 or equivalent, at the intake manifold
and cylinder head splitline.
3. Install rocker cover gasket over studs in the
manifold and cylinder head.
4. Install the reinforcements and nuts and torque to
8-20
N.m (6-14 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the plenum and runners and connect the
throttle body as per Section
6E3.
6. Connect air management hose (manual
transmission only).
7. Install
A/C bracket.
8. Connect battery.
Removal (Right)
1. Disconnect battery. 2.
Remove EGR valve transfer tube from plenum.
3. Remove coil and coil mounting bracket from
cylinder head.
4. Remove plenum and runners and disconnect
throttle body per Section
6E3.
5. Remove rocker cover retainers and nuts.
6. Remove cover. If cover adheres to cylinder head,
shear off by bumping end of rocker cover with
palm of hand or rubber mallet. If cover still does
not come loose, CAREFULLY pry until loose.
DO NOT DISTORT SEALING FLANGE.
Installation (Right)
Clean sealing surface on cylinder head, intake
manifold, and rocker cover. Make sure sealing
flange or rocker cover is not bent.
Place a 3mm diameter
(1/8") dot of RTV sealant,
# 1052917 or equivalent, at the intake manifold
and cylinder head splitline.
Install rocker cover gasket over studs in the
manifold and cylinder head.
Install the load spreaders and nuts and torque to
90 in. lbs.
Install plenum and runners and connect throttle
body per Section
6E3.
Install coil and coil mounting bracket at cylinder
head.
Install EGR valve and transfer tube at plenum.
Connect battery.
I NOTE ]APPLY A SMOOTH CONTINUOUS BEAD APPROX
2.0-3.0 WIDE AND 3.0-5.0 THICK ON BOTH SURFACES.
BEAD CONFIGURATION MUST INSURE COMPLETE SEALING
OF WATER AND OIL. SURFACE MUST BE FREE OF OIL AND
DIRT TO INSURE ADEQUATE SEAL.
TORQUE INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS
TO
18-34 N.m (1 3-25 FT. LBS.)
841 59
73 2 610 VIEW
Figure 6A2-7 Intake Manifold

2.8 LITER V-6 6A2-9
INTAKE MANIFOLD (FIGURE 6A2-7)
Removal
Disconnect battery.
Remove air cleaner.
Drain coolant.
Refer to Section 6E3 for removal of the following
PFI sub-assemblies.
e Plenum
e Fuel Rail
e Runner
Disconnect spark plug wires at spark plugs.
Disconnect wires at coil.
Remove distributor cap and spark plug wires.
Mark distributor position and remove hold down
bracket.
Remove distributor.
Remove air management hose, manual
transmission only.
Disconnect emission canister hoses. Remove pipe
bracket (front left valve cover).
Remove left valve cover.
Remove air management bracket, manual
transmission only.
Remove right valve cover.
Remove upper radiator hose.
Disconnect heater hose.
Disconnect coolant switches.
Remove manifold bolts.
Remove manifold. Discard manifold gaskets and
remove loose RTV from front and rear ridges of
cylinder case.
Installation
When installing intake gaskets, notice that the
gaskets are marked Right Side and Left Side
(carbureted only). Use them only as indicated to
maintain designed efficiency of this engine.
1. Make
sure that no oil or water is present on
surface when new RTV is applied. Place a 5mm
diameter
(3/16") bead of RTV, # 1052917 or
equivalent, on each ridge.
2. Install
new intake gaskets on cylinder heads.
Hold in place by extending ridge RTV bead up
6mm onto the gasket ends. The new intake
gaskets will have to be cut, where indicated, to
install behind push rods. Cut only those areas
that are necessary.
3. Install intake
manifold on engine. Make sure
areas between case ridges and intake are
completely sealed.
4. Install manifold retaining bolts and nuts and
torque in the sequence shown in Figure 6A2-7.
5. Install heater and radiator hose to manifold.
6. Install rocker covers as previously outlined.
7. Connect coolant switches.
8. Install air management bracket.
9. Install pipe bracket (front left rocker cover).
10. Install distributor, distributor cap and retaining
nut. Do not tighten.
11. Refer to Section 6E3 for installation of PFI
sub-assemblies removed. 12.
Connect
necessary wires and hoses.
13. Fill cooling system with
the proper mixture of
ethylene glycol anti-freeze and water. Do not
install radiator cap.
14. Start
engine, set intitial timing. After set, torque
distibutor hold down clamp bolt to 34
N-m (25
lb. ft.). Recheck timing after torquing bolt.
15. Let engine
run until radiator upper hose becomes
hot (thermostat open).
16. With
engine idling, add coolant to radiator, if
necessary, until level reaches bottom of filler
neck.
17. Install
radiator cap, making sure arrows on cap
line up with overflow tube.
Figure 6A2-8 Exhaust Manifold
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (FIGURE 6A2-8)
Removal (Left)
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Raise vehicle.
3. Disconnect exhaust pipe.
4. Remove
(4) rear manifold bolts and (1) nut.
5. Lower vehicle.
6. Disconnect air management, hoses and wires.
7. Remove power steering and fuel line bracket.
8. Remove manifold.
Installation (Left)
1. Clean mating surfaces on manifold and head,
then install manifold in position and install bolts.
2. Torque
manifold bolts to 34
N.m (25 ft. lbs.).
3. Install power steering bracket.
4. Raise vehicle.
5. Install exhaust pipe.
6. Lower vehicle.
7. Connect battery.
Removal (Right)
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Raise vehicle.
3. Disconnect exhaust pipe.
4. Lower vehicle.

2.8 LITER V-6 6A2-21
SEAL BORE TO SEAL SURFACE
TO BE LUBRICATED
WlTH ENGINE OK BEFORE I ASSEMBLY
Figure
6A2-27 Seal and Tool J-34686
ALIGNMENT HOLE
DUST
LIP
I SCREWS I
Figure 6A2-28 Installing Seal
OIL SEAL - REAR MAIN
Repair
1. Remove transmission.
2. Remove flexplate.
3. Old
seal, insert a screwdriver or similar tool
through the dust lip at an angle as shown in
Figure
6A2-26. Pry seal out by moving handle of
tool towards the end of the crankshaft. Repeat as
required around the seal until seal is removed.
CARE MUST BE TAKEN NOT TO
DAMAGE THE CRANKSHAFT O.D.
SURFACE
WlTH THE PRY TOOL.
4. Check
the I.D. of bore for knicks or burrs and
correct as required. Inspect crankshaft for burrs
or knicks on surface which contacts seal. Repair
or replace crankshaft as required.
5. Install new seal using Tool J-34686, Figure
6A2-27.
6. Apply a
light coat of oil to I.D. of new seal and
install over mandril, slide the seal on the mandril
until the dust lip (back of seal) bottoms squarely
against collar of tool, Figure
6A2-28.
7. Align dowel pin of tool with dowel pin hole in
crankshaft and attach tool to crankshaft by hand
or torque attaching screw to 2-5 ft. lbs.
8. Turn
"T" handle of tool so that collar pushes seal
into the bore, turn handle until the collar is tight
against the case. This will insure that the seal is
seated properly.
9. Loosen the "T" handle of the tool until it comes
to a stop. This will insure that the collar will be
in the proper position for installing a new seal.
Remove attaching screws.
10. Check seal,
making sure seal is seated squarely in
the bore.
1
1. Install flywheel.
12. Install transmission.
13. Start
engine, check for leaks.
PISTONS, RINGS AND CONNECTING RODS
Removal
1. Remove cylinder heads.
2. Examine the cylinder bores above the ring tavel.
If bores are worn so that a shoulder or ridge exists
at the top of the cylinder, remove the ridges with
a ridge reamer to avoid damaging rings or
cracking ring lands in pistons during removal.
3. Use a silver pencil or quick drying paint to mark
the cylinder number on all pistons, connecting
rods and caps. Starting at the front end of the
crankcase the cylinders in the right bank are
numbered 1-3-5 and those in the left bank are
number 2-4-6.
4. Remove rod bearing
cap and bearing.
5. Install
guide hose over threads of rod bolts. This
is to prevent damage to bearing journal and rod
bolt threads.
6. Remove rod
and piston assembly through the top
of the cylinder bore.
Disassembly
1. Remove compression rings
and oil ring.
2. Install piston and connecting rod assembly on
fixture and support J-24086-20 and place in an
arbor press. Press pin out of connecting rod.
Inspection
1. Inspect cylinder walls for scoring, roughtness, or
ridges which indicate excessive wear. Check
cylinder bores for taper and out-of-round with an
accurate cylinder gage at top, middle and bottom
of bore, both parallel at right angles to the
cylinder bores at any point may be measured with
an inside micrometer or setting the cylinder gage
dial at
"0" and measuring across the gage
contact points with outside micrometer while the
gage is at same
"0" setting.
2. If a cylinder bore is moderately rough or slightly
scored but is not out-of-round or tapered, it is
usually possible to remedy the situation by
honing the bore to fit a standard service piston
since standard service pistons are high limit
production pistons. If cylinder bore is very rough
or deeply scored, however, it may be necessary to