1988 PONTIAC FIERO brake

TIRES AND WHEELS 3E-9
Another method is to dismount the tire and
rotate it 180 degrees on the rim. It is important that
this be done on tire and wheel assemblies which are
known to be causing a vibration as it is just as likely to
cause good assemblies to vibrate.
Refer to Section 3, "Vibration Diagnosis" for
more details.
ALUMINUM WHEEL CLEANING
Aluminum wheels should be cleaned and waxed
regularly. Do not use abrasive cleaners, as they could
damage the protective coating.
ALUMINUM WHEEL HUB CAP
Remove or Disconnect
1. Tire and wheel assembly
2. Place a block of wood approximately 2" in
diameter with a squared off end against the back
surface of the cap.
A sharp hammer biow on the
block of wood will
remove the cap.
Install or Connect
1. Place
cap into position at wheel opening and
place a block of wood at least three inches in
diameter against cap face. Install cap by striking
block of wood with hammer.
2. Tire and wheel assembly
NOTICE: Failure to hit cap squarely without the
load distributed evenly could result in permanent
damage to the cap.
ALUMINUM WHEEL POROSITY REPAIR
1. Remove tire and wheel assembly.
2. Locate
leaking areas by inflating tire to 345
kPa
(50 psi) and dipping tire and wheel assembly into
a water bath.
3. Mark
leak areas and remove tire from wheel.
4. Scuff inside surface at leak area with 80 grit
sandpaper and clean area with general purpose
cleaner such as
3M #08984 or equivalent.
5. Apply 1/8" thick layer of adhesive/sealant P/N
1052366 or equivalent to leak area and allow
twelve hours of drying time.
6. Mount tire on wheel, pressurize to 345 kPa (50
psi) and check for leaks.
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal
injury, do not stand over tire when
inflating. Bead may break when bead
snaps over safety hump. Do not
exceed
275 kPa (40 psi) pressure
when inflating any tire if beads are
not seated.
14 275 kPa (40 psi)
pressure will not seat beads, deflate,
relubricate the beads and reinflate.
Overinflation may cause the bead to
break and cause serious personal
injury.
7. Adjust
tire pressure to meet specifications.
8. Balance tire and wheel assembly.
9. Install tire and wheel assembly.
ALUMINUM WHEEL REFINISHING
A protective clear or color coating is applied to
the surface of original equipment cast aluminum
wheels.
A surface degradation condition can begin to
develop if frequent, repeated automatic car wash
cleaning abrades or wears off the factory applied
protective coating. This can happen at some automatic
car wash facilities using aggressive silicon carbide
tipped tire brushes
to clean white walls and tires. Once
the protective coating is
damaged, exposure to caustic
cleaners and/or road salt further causes surface
degradation. The following procedure details how to
strip, clean
and recoat aluminum wheels that are
affected by these conditions.
Required Materials:
A~nchern Alumi Prep #33 - stock
#DX533 or equivalent - cleaning and
conditioning chemical for aluminum.
Amchem Alodine
# 1001 - stock #DXSOT
or equivalent - coating chemical for
aluminum.
Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane Clear
-
stock #DAU-75 or equivalent.
Ditzler Delthane Ultra-Urethane Additive
- stock DXR-80 or equivalent.
Service Procedure:
1. Mark wheel and wheel stud for position on car.
2. Remove tire and wheel assembly from car.
3. Mark location of outboard weights and remove.
4. Wash wheel inside and out with water base all
purpose cleaner. Remove grease and oil with
solvent cleaner.
5. Mask off tire prior to painting.
6. Select and follow the correct procedure,
"Aluminum Damage on Wheel Surface" or
"Clear Coat Damage on Unpainted Wheels".
7. Replace wheel weights with nylon coated
weights.
8. Install tire and wheel assembly on car and tighten
wheel nuts to proper torque.
Accent Color Preparation
1. Sand over painted areas that will not require
recoloring with 400 grit (wet or dry) to promote
adhesion of clear coat.
Aluminum Damage on Wheel Surface
1. Mount tire and wheel on brake lathe and spin
slowly.
2. Sand wheel with backing block or pad by holding
abrasive flat to surface of wheel and moving
slowly back and forth from center to outer edge
to remove damage. Use the following sandpaper
grits in the order listed.
A. Sand with 80 grit
B. Sand with 150 grit
C. Sand with 240 grit
3. Continue with "Recoating Procedure."

3E-10 TIRES AND WHEELS
Clear Coat Damage on Unpainted Wheels
I.
Apply chemical stripper. Use small 1/4" detail
brush dipped in stripper to apply material around
perimeter and spoke-like areas.
2. Remove stripper following manufacturers
recommendations.
3. Sand wheel with 240 grit while rotating wheel on
a slow spinning brake lathe or by mounting on car
and spinning by hand. This will restore the
machined appearance and promote adhesion.
CAUTION: Do not use engine power to
rotate wheel while sanding to avoid
serious personal injury.
4. Continue with "Recoating Procedure."
Recoating Procedure
1. Clean surface of contaminants.
2. Soak wheel with Amchem #33 or equivalent
from
1 to 3 minutes, then rinse with water and
blow dry.
3. Soak wheel with Amchem
#I001 or equivalent
for
1 to 3 minutes, then rinse with water and blow
dry. 4.
Finish with Ditzler Delclear Acrylic Urethane
and Ditzler Ultra-Urethane Additive or
equivalent using three coats.
1st Coat
- Light mist coat, let flash
2nd Coat
- Light, let flash
3rd Coat
- Heavy double wet coat
CAUTION: To avoid serious personal
injury when applying any two part
component paint system, follow the
specific precautions provided by the
paint manufacturer. Failure to follow
these precautions may cause lung
irritation and allergic respiratory
reaction.
5. Let dry for 24 hours - (or flash for 30 minutes,
force dry at
140" for 30 minutes, and allow to cool
for 30 minutes before mounting.
WHEEL NUT TORQUE
F Carline - M 12X 1.5 .............. 1 10 N . m (80 Ibs. ft.)

4819 REAR AXLE
bears against the inner race of the front bearing and a
shoulder on the pinion stem. This spacer is used to
enable accurate bearing pre-load adjustment and
maintain a pre-load on both front and rear pinion
bearings, Adjustment of the fore and aft position of the
pinion is obtained by placing a shim between the rear
pinion bearing cup and axle housing. The differential
case is of two-piece construction and is supported in
the carrier by two tapered roller side bearings. Pre-load
rear axle case by inserting shims between the bearings
and the carrier. The rear axle case assembly is
positioned for proper ring gear to pinion backlash by
varying the shim thickness from side to side. The ring
gear is bolted to the case. Two side gears have splined
bores for driving the axle shafts. They are positioned
to turn in counterbored cavities in the case. The four
rear axle pinions have smooth bores and are held in
position by a pinion cross shaft, mounted and locked
in the rear axle case. All six gears are in mesh with each
other and because the pinion gears turn freely on their
shaft, they act as idler gears when the rear wheels are
turning at different speeds. The pinions and side gears
are backed by steel thrust washers.
LIMITED-SLIP REAR AXLE
The operation of the Limited-Slip differential is
the same as the standard differential, except that there
is additional friction provided by the conical clutches.
Under ordinary driving and cornering conditions, the
cones slip, allowing the outside wheel to turn faster
than the inner. Under poor traction conditions, such as
ice, snow, or loose gravel under one driving wheel, the
increased friction provided by the cones increases the
driving torque available to the wheel with the better
traction. The cones are spring loaded to provide the
increased driving torque under extremely low traction
conditions.
Operation
When the vehicle turns a corner, the outer rear
wheel must turn faster than the inner wheel. The inner
wheel, turning slower than the outer wheel, slows its
differential side gear (as the axle shaft is splined to the
side gear) and the differential pinion gears will roll
around the slowed differential side gear, driving the
other differential side gear and wheel faster.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Many noises reported as coming from the rear
axle assembly actually originate from other sources
such as tires, road surfaces, front wheel bearings, axle
bearing, engine, transmission, muffler or body
drumming. A thorough and careful check should be
made to determine the source of the noise before
disassembling the rear axle. Noise which originates in
other places cannot be corrected by adjustment or
replacement of parts in the differential. It should also
be remembered that rear axle gears, like any other
mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet and should
be accepted as being commercially quiet unless some
abnormal noise is present.
To make a systematic check for axle noise under
standard conditions, observe the following:
1. Select a level smooth asphalt road to reduce tire
noise and body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant to assure correct level,
then drive car far enough to thoroughly warm up
rear axle lubricant, approximately 10 miles.
3. Note speed and RPM at which noise occurs. Stop
car and put transmission in neutral. Run engine
slowly up and down through engine speeds,
corresponding to car speed at which noise was
most pronounced, to determine if it is caused by
exhaust, muffler roar or other engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces,
but rear axle noise does not. Temporarily
inflating all tires to approximately 50 pounds
pressure
for test purposes only will materially
alter noise caused by tires, but will not affect noise
caused by rear axle. Rear axle noise usually stops
when coasting at speeds under 30 miles per hour;
however, tire noise continues, but with lower
tone, as car speed is reduced. Rear axle noise
usually changes when comparing acceleration
and coast, but tire noise remains about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise
by noting if noise varies with various speeds or
sudden acceleration and deceleration; exhaust
and axle noise show variations under these
conditions while tire noise remains constant and
is more pronounced at speeds of 20 to 30 miles
per hour. Further check for tire noise by driving
car over smooth pavements or dirt roads (not
gravel) with tires at normal pressure. If noise is
caused by tires, it will noticeably change or
disappear and reappear with changes in road
surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause
noise which may be confused with rear axle
noises; however, front wheel bearing noise does
not change when comparing drive and coast.
Light application of brakes while holding car
speed steady will often cause wheel bearing noise
to diminish, as this takes some weight off the
bearing. Front wheel bearings may be easily
checked for noise by jacking up the wheels and
spinning them, also by shaking wheels to
determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen out rear axle noise when
correctly installed. Check to see that no metallic
contact exists between the spring and spring seat
opening in frame or between upper and lower
control arm bushings and frame or axle housing
brackets. The track bar and torque arm must be
bolted securely. Metal-to-metal contact at those
points may result in telegraphing road noise and
normal axle noise which would not be
objectionable if dampened by bushings.
AXLE NOISES
After the noise has been determined as being in
the axle by following the above appraisal procedure,
the type of axle noise should be determined to aid in
making repairs if necessary.

REAR AXLE 481-3
1-OUTER BRG. RETAINER
2-WHEEL SEAL
3-WHEEL BRG. CONE
4-WHEEL
BRG. CUP
5-INNER BRG. RETAINER
6-AXLE SHAFT
7-COMPANION FLANGE
8 -PINION OIL SEAL
9-FRONT PINION BRG. CUP
10-FRONT PINION BRG. CONE
1 1-COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
12-PINION NUT
13-DIFFERENTIAL
BRG. CAPS
14-DIFFERENTIAL CAP BOLTS
15-FILLER PLUG
16-REAR COVER BOLTS 17-LUBRICATION
TAG
&
IDENTI FlCATlON TAG
18-REAR COVER
19-REAR COVER GASKET
20-REAR PINION BRG. CUP
21-REAR PlNlON BRG. CONE
22-PINION POSITION
SHIM 23-HYPOID PlNlON
24-DIFF. BRG. SHIM
25-DIFF.
BRG. CUP
26-DIFF. BRG. CONE
27-DIFFERENTIAL ASSY
28-BRAKE BACKING PLATE
29-RING GEAR BOLTS
30-HYPOID
RING GEAR
31-CARRIER &TUBE ASSY
32-WHEEL BOLTS
Fig.
1 Standard Rear Axle

481-4 REAR AXLE
Gear Noise
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 20 to 55 mph
under four driving conditions:
1. Light Acceleration - Accelerate slowly.
2. Road Load
- Car
driving load or constant speed.
3. Float - Using enough throttle to keep the car from
driving the engine
- car slows down gradually but
engine still pulls slightly.
4. Coast - Throttle closed and car in gear.
Bearing Noise
Bad bearings generally produce more of a rough
growl or grating sound, rather than the whine typical
of gear noise. Bearing noise frequently "wow-wows" at
bearing rpm, indicating a defective pinion or rear axle
case side bearing. This noise could easily be confused
with rear wheel bearing noise. Inspect and replace as
required.
Rear Wheel Bearing Noise
A rough rear wheel bearing produces a noise
which continues with car coasting at low speed and
transmission in neutral. Noise may diminish some by
gentle braking. With rear wheels jacked up, spin rear
wheels by hand while listening at hubs for evidence of
rough (noisy) wheel bearing.
Knock At Low Speeds
Low speed knock can be caused by worn
universal joints or a side gear hub counterbore in a case
that has worn oversize. Inspect and replace universal
joint or case and side gear as required.
Backlash Clunk
Excessive clunk with acceleration and deceleration
is caused by worn differential pinion gear shaft, excessive
clearance between axle shaft and side gear splines, exces-
sive clearance between side gear hub and counterbore in
case, worn pinion and side gear teeth, worn thrust washers
and excessive drive pinion and ring gear backlash. Re-
move worn parts and replace as required, selecting close
fitting parts when possible. Adjust pinion and ring gear
backlash.
DIAGNOSIS
1. Noise
is the same in "Light Acceleration" or
"Coast".
a. Road noise.
b. Tire noise.
c. Front wheel bearing noise.
d. Rear axle bearing noise.
2. Noise changes on a different type of road.
a. Road noise.
b. Tire noise.
3. Noise tone lowers as car speed is lowered.
a. Tire noise.
b. Front
wheel bearings and rear axle bearings.
c. Gear noise.
4. Similar noise is produced with car standing and
driving. a.
Engine noise.
b. Transmission noise.
c. Exhaust noise.
5. Vibration.
a. Rough rear axle bearing.
b. Unbalanced or damaged propeller shaft.
c. Tire unbalance.
d. Worn universal joint in propeller shaft.
e. Mis-indexed propeller shaft at pinion
flange.
f. Pinion flange runout too great.
6. A knock or click approximately every two
revolutions of the rear wheel.
a. A rear axle bearing.
b. Worn case.
7. Noise most pronounced on turns.
a. Rear axle side gear and pinion noise,
differential gear noise.
b. Axle bearings.
8. A continuous low pitch whirring or scraping
noise starting at relatively low speed.
a. All bearing noise.
9. Drive noise, coast noise or float noise.
a. Ring
and pinion gear noise.
b. Front
pinion bearing noise, coast or drive.
c. Axle bearing noise.
10. Clunk
on
acceleration or deceleration.
a. Worn
rear axle pinion shaft splines.
b. Side
gear hub counterbore in case worn
oversize.
c. Worn U-joints.
d. Excessive transmission backlash.
e. Worn axle shaft splines.
11. Chatter on turns.
a. Wrong
lube in rear axle.
b. Clutch
cone worn or spalled.
12. Clunk
or knock on rough road operation.
a. Worn suspension bushings.
PRE-REPAIR INVESTIGATION AND TROUBLE
DIAGNOSIS
A carefull diagnosis of the rear axle prior to
disassembly will often reveal valuable information as to
the extent and type of repairs or adjustments necessary.
Since frequent causes of axle noises are improper
backlash, pinion bearing pre-load, or side bearing
pre-load, or a combination, a few simple adjustments
may be all that are necessary to correct a problem.
Before disassembling the rear axle, the following
checks should be made with the results recorded and
analyzed: 1) Backlash;
2) Total Assembly Preload; 3)
Tooth Contact Pattern Test; 4) Fluid Level; and 5)
Fluid Contamination.
If axle shaft end play is excessive then check
bearings, retainer, and bolts securing backing plate.
The axle bearings could be worn and need replacement.
The four bolts or nuts securing the brake backing plate
may be loose, stripped, or missing. If the inner bearing
retainer worked loose it must be replaced.
Use care at all times to keep dirt and other foreign
matter, such as grinder dust, soot or sand, away from
differential to prevent possibility of subsequent failure.

REAR AXLE 481-7
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
CARRIER COVER AND GASKET
Remove or Disconnect
1. Having
a container in place remove drain plug
with tool
J-35117,remove cover bolts and pry
cover loose to drain lubricant.
2. Make sure both
gasket sealing surfaces are clean.
Install or Connect
Use cover gasket (do not assemble with
sealant alone).
NOTICE: Apply locktite part No. 573, GM Part
Nos. 1052080, or 1052279 or equivalent to cover
bolts before installing cover. If sealant is not applied
bolts may loosen causing fluid leak and damage to
rear axle assembly.
1. Torque cover bolts in a crosswise pattern to
insure uniform draw on gasket. Torque
26 N.m
(20 1b.ft.).
2. Fill with lubricant to bottom of filler plug hole.
Refer to specifications for correct lubricant usage
and quantity.
AXLE SHAFT
Remove or Disconnect
1. Wheel
and brake components as necessary.
2. The
four nuts holding the brake anchor plate and
outer bearing retainer.
3. Withdraw the axle shaft and wheel bearing assem-
bly using axle shaft remover
J 21579 and slide
hammer
J 2619-01 (Fig. 4).
Fig. 4 Axle Shaft Removal
4. Inner
bearing retainer and bearing from axle
shaft. To do this carefully split the retainer with
a chisel and remove from shaft. Press off bearing
with tool
5-22912-01 from axle. Discard bearing
and seal (Fig. 5).
Fig. 5 Bearing and Seal Removal
Examine axle shaft. If axle shaft is in satisfactory
condition it may be re-used.
Important
Bearings and inner bearing retainers which
have been removed from an axle shaft
should not be re-used.
Install or Connect
1. Place the outer bearing retainer on the axle shaft.
Important
Right and left hand axle shaft seals are
different in construction. Right hand seal is
black banded with right hand ridges. Left
hand seal is gold banded with left hand
ridges. The part numbers designate left and
right sides.
2. Place the oil seal on the axle shaft ensuring that
the spring side of the oil seal faces the center of
the axle. Lubricate seals lips with a light coat of
grease. Note use of excessive amounts of grease
may damage seal.
3. Press wheel bearing and inner bearing retainer hard
against bearing shoulder on axle shaft with tool
J 8853-01, ensuring that the retainer is tight against
the bearing and with
O.D. chamfer towards
bearing.
4. Place the axle shaft through the brake anchor
plate and align axle shaft and side gear splines.
5. Once the splines have been engaged in the side
gears the wheel bearing and oil seal may be
pushed into the housing.
A light coat of grease on
the seal outside diameter will assist in installation.
Tighten four backing plate bolts alternately. Use
new locknuts on bolts. (Refer to specifications).
NOTICE: If a limited-slip differential is used
ensure that both axle shaft splines are fully
engaged before the axle shafts are rotated. This is
to mainatain spline alignment, refer to limited-slip
instructions.

481.8 REAR AXLE
6. Replace
brake components and wheel.
7. Tighten wheel nuts and lower vehicle.
Tooth Contact Pattern Test
The side of the ring gear tooth which curves
outward, or is convex, is referred to as the "drive" side.
The concave side is the "coast" side. The end of the
tooth nearest center of ring gear is referred to as the
"toe" end. The end of the tooth farthest away from the
center is the "heel" end. Toe end of tooth is smaller
than heel end.
It is very important that tooth contact be tested
before the rear axle carrier assembly is disassembled.
Variations in the carrier or pinion rear bearing may
cause the pinion to be too far away from, or close to,
the ring gear. Thus, the tooth contact must be tested
and corrected, if necessary, or the gears may be noisy.
Procedure
1. Drain
oil out of carrier and carefully clean each
tooth of ring gear.
2. Apply parking brake until a torque of 54 to 70
N-m (40-50 lb. ft.) is required to turn the pinion.
3. Tighten bearing cap bolts to 52 N-m (40 lb. ft.).
4. Use gear marking compound part number
1052351 or equivalent and apply this mixture
sparingly to all ring gear teeth, using a medium
stiff brush. When properly used, the area of
pinion tooth contact will be visible when hand
load is applied.
A test made without loading the gears will not
give a satisfactory pattern. Turn pinion flange
with wrench so that ring gear rotates five full
revolutions, then reverse rotation so that ring
gear rotates five
revolutio~ls in opposite direction.
5. Observe pattern on ring gear teeth and compare
with Fig.
6.
Effects of Increasing Load on Teeth Contact
Pattern
When "load" on ring and pinion gear is
increased, such as when car is accelerated forward
from standstill or from normal drive, the tooth contact
will tend to spread out and, under very heavy load, will
extend from near toe to near heel on the drive side. The
entire contact also tends to shift toward heel under
increasingly heavier loads and will become somewhat
broader with respect to tops and bottoms of teeth. The
patterns obtained by this tooth contact pattern test
approximate a light load and, for this reason, they will
extend only about halfway.
The important thing to note is that the contact
pattern is centrally located up and down on the face of
the ring gear teeth.
Adjustments Affecting Tooth Contact
Two adjustments can be made which will affect
tooth contact pattern, backlash and position of drive
pinion in carrier. The effects of bearing pre-loads are
not readily apparent
on (hand-loaded) tooth contact
pattern tests; however, these adjustments should be within
specifications before proceeding with backlash
and drive pinion adjustments.
Backlash is adjusted by means of the side bearing
adjusting shims, which moves the entire case and ring
gear assembly closer to, or farther from, the drive
pinion (the adjusting shims are also used to set side
bearing pre-load). The position of the drive pinion is
adjusted by increasing or decreasing the shim thickness
between the rear pinion cup and axle housing
. The
shim is used in the rear axle case to compensate for
manufacturing tolerances. Increasing shim thickness
will move the pinion closer to centerline of the ring
gear. Decreasing shim thickness will move pinion
farther away from centerline of the ring gear.
Effects of Pinion Position on Tooth Pattern
When the drive pinion is too far away from
centerline of the ring gear, the pattern will be a high
heel contact on the drive side and high toe contact on
coast side (Fig. 6). Moving the pinion closer to
centerline of the ring gear by increasing shim thickness
will cause the high heel contact on drive side to lower
and move toward the toe; the high toe contact on coast
side will lower and move toward the heel.
When the pinion is too close to the centerline of
the ring gear, the pattern will be a low toe contact on
drive side and a low heel contact on the coast side.
Moving the pinion farther away from the ring gear by
decreasing shim thickness will cause low toe contact on
drive side to raise and move toward the heel; the low
heel contact on coast side will raise and move toward
the toe.
PINION OIL SEAL AND COMPANION FLANGE
REPLACEMENT
Remove or Disconnect
1. Mark the propeller shaft and companion flange
so they can be reassembled in the same position.
Remove four nuts and lock washers from two
saddles retaining
U-joints to companion flange
and remove propeller shaft.
2. Measure and record preload at pinion - this
includes pinion bearing, differential bearings,
effect of grease and oil seal. (Figure
7).
3. Pinion nut with companion flange remover
J-8614-01. (Figure 8).
4. Companion flange with companion flange
remover
5-8614-01. (Figure 8).
5. Seal and discard.
NOTICE: Before installing a new seal examine the
surface of the companion flange on which the seal
runs. Should this surface be damaged or the splines
excessively worn, a new companion flange should
be installed. Also examine the housing bore and
remove any nicks or burrs.

REAR AXLE 4Bl-I I
Fig. 11 Installing Wheel Bolt
Loosen parking brake cable adjuster nut and
remove two parking brake cables from adjuster
and body clips.
Shock absorbers from axle.
Track bar from rear axle and body.
Stabilizer bar links from axle and bushings.
Mark propeller shaft and companion flange, then
disconnect and remove propeller shaft.
Brake line junction block bolt at axle housing,
then disconnect brake lines at wheel cylinders.
Brake lines from clips.
Lower rear axle and remove springs.
Torque arm from rear axle.
Lower control arms from rear axle.
Lower hoist and remove rear axle assembly from
vehicle.
Install or Connect
Raise hoist and rear axle assembly.
Lower control arms to rear axle.
Torque arm to rear axle.
Springs and raise rear axle assembly.
Brake lines to clips.
Brake line junction block bolt at axle housing,
then connect brake lines at wheel cylinders or
calipers.
Align drive shaft and pinion flange, then install
drive shaft and connect.
Stabilizer bushings and links to axle.
Track bar to body and rear axle.
Shock absorbers to axle.
Parking brake cables to body clips and cable
adjuster, then tighten parking brake cable
adjuster nut.
Wheels and tighten lug nuts.
Frame supports and lower hoist.
NOTICE: Lubricant level is to the bottom of the
filler plug hole. Use only the specified lubricant.
(Refer to Specifications).
Before attempting any service procedures the
technician must know what type rear axle is to be
serviced. Refer to chart (Rear Axle Codes And
Identification) to identify codes, ring gear size, and ratios.
Remember that all ring gear bolts have
L.H.
threads.
Most rear axle service repairs can be made by
supporting the car by the frame with the axle housing
supported and lowered to its lowest travel. On some
models it may be necessary to disconnect shock
absorbers to obtain additional clearance. When doing
this, do not allow the rear brake hose to become
kinked
or stretched.
Lubricant may be drained by backing out all
cover bolts and breaking cover loose at the bottom.
If the rear axle housing is removed for any reason,
rear axle service can be performed on the bench.
When a new ring gear and pinion is installed, the
owner should be advised not to accelerate rapidly or
exceed 50 mph for the first 50 miles of driving.
It is necessary to perform a service diagnosis
before disassembly of the rear axle. Check all fasteners
with torque wrench for correct torque. Check level and
condition of fluid.
If fluid is contaminated the rear axle
will require disassembly and a complete inspection and
cleaning. The bearing preloads should be checked with
a torque wrench. A dial indicator reading should be
made for run out of ring gear and backlash between
ring and pinion gear. Use specifications from chart
below to perform suggested diagnostic checks. Roll
gears and paint to read out pattern.
DRAIN REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
1. Loosen cover and pry cover away from carrier.
2. Let axle fluids drain from carrier.
3. Remove cover bolts and cover from carrier.
4. Scrape off gasket and sealer from cover and
carrier.
Remove or Disconnect
Differential Assembly
1. Bearing caps and bolts. Identify bearing caps with
paint. The bearing caps are not interchangeable.
2. The differential assembly is worked out of the
carrier by putting a box wrench on ring gear bolt.
The box wrench contacts back of housing when
companion
tlange is rotated with tool 3-8614-01.
When the differential assembly rotates out of the
carrier from pinion rotation the shims will also
come out. The shims and bearing caps location,
left or right, must be identified for reassembly.
(Fig. 12).
3. Differential assembly from carrier.
Remove or Disconnect
Hypoid Pinion and Pinion Bearings
1. Pinion nut and companion flange from pinion
with companion flange tool 5-8614-01. (Fig. 8).
2. Drive pinion gear through rear of carrier with
soft face hammer.