1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE oil level

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 1-2
WHERE TOBEGIN l-2
AVOIDINGTROUBLE 1-2
MAINTENANCEORREPAIR? 1-2
AVOIDINGTHEMOSTCOMMONMISTAKES l-2
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 1-2
SPECIALTOOLS l-4
YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY 1-4
DON'TS l-6
FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND
CONVERSIONS l-6
BOLTS,NUTSANDOTHERTHREADED
RETAINERS 1-6
TORQUE l-7
TORQUEWRENCHES l-7
TORQUEANGLEMETERS 1-9
STANDARDANDMETRIC MEASUREMENTS l-9
SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION l-10
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER l-10
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER I-10
TRANSAXLEIDENTIFICATION I-10
DRlVEAXLE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-10
TRANSFERCASE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-10
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP l-14
AIRCLEANER(ELEMENT) 1-14
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 1-14
FUELFILTER 1-15
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION l-15
PCVVALVE l-15
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION l-15
EVAPORATIVECANISTER l-16
SERVICING 1-16
BATTERY 1-16
PRECAUTIONS I-16
GENERALMAINTENANCE 1-16
BEL BATTERYFLUID 1-16
CABLES I-17
CHARGING I-18
REPLACEMENT 1-18
TS 1-18
INSPECTiON l-18
ADJUSTMENT 1-18
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 1-18
TIMINGBELTS l-20
INSPECTION l-20
HOSES I-20
INSPECTION l-20
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
CV-BOOTS 1-21
INSPECTION l-21
SPARKPLUGS l-22
SPARKPLUGHEATRANGE
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
INSPECTION &GAPPING 1.
SPARKPLUG WIRES 1-24
TESTING 1-24
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
DISTRIBUTORCAPANDROTOR
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
INSPECTION 1-25
IGNITIONTIMING 1-25
. GENERALINFORAMTION l-
lNSPECTlON&ADJUSTMENl
VALVE LASH l-27
ADJUSTMENT l-27
IDLESPEED 1-28 1-21
l-22
l-22
-23
1-24
l-25
l-25
.25
1-26
AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM 1-28
SYSTEMSERVlCEiiREPAlR l-28
PREVENTIVEMAINTENANCE 1-28
SYSTEM INSPECTION l-29
WINDSHIELD WIPERS l-29
ELEMENT(REFILL)CARE&
REPLACEMENT l-29
TIRESANDWHEELS l-30
TIRE ROTATION I-30
TIRE DESIGN 1-31
TIRESTORAGE l-31
INFLATION &INSPECTION l-31
CARE OFSPECIALWHEELS l-32 OPERATION INFOREIGNCOUNTRIES l-33
ENGINE l-33
OILLEVELCHECK 1-33
OIL& FILTER CHANGE l-34
MANUALTRANSAXLE l-35
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-35
LEVELCHECK l-35
DRAIN&REFILL l-36
AUTOMATICTRANSAXLE l-36
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-36
LEVELCHECK 1-36
DRAIN&REFILL l-36
PAN & FILTERSERVICE 1-36
TRANSFERCASE(AWDGAlANT ONLY) l-38
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-38
LEVELCHECK l-38
DRAIN&REFILL l-38
REARDRlVEAXLE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-38
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-38
LEVELCHECK l-38
DRAIN&REFILL l-38
COOLINGSYSTEM l-39
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-39
iM-41
FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS 1-33
FLUID DISPOSAL 1-33
FlJELANDENGlNEOILRECOMMENDATlONS
ENGINE OIL l-33
FUEL l-33

*
l-16 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 49 Grasp the valve and gently remove
Fig. 50 Twist and pull on the valve to re-
it from the valve cover
move it from the hose Fig. 51 Inspect the grommet and replace if
cracked or leaking oil
SERVICING
corrosive acid can also eat away at components un-
der the hood.
Always visually inspect the battery case for cracks,
leakage and corrosion. A white corrosive substance
u See Figure 52
The evaporative canister requires no periodic ser-
vicing. However, a careful inspection of the canister
and hoses should be made frequently, Replace dam- on the battery case or on nearby components would
indicate a leaking or cracked battery. If the battery is
cracked, it should be replaced immediately. GENERALMAINTENANCE '_
devices that increase parasitic load may discharge a
battery sooner. If the vehicle is to be stored for 6-B
weeks in a secure area and the alarm system, if pre-
sent, is not necessary, the negative battery cable
should be disconnected at the onset of storage to
protect the battery charge.
Remember that constantly discharging and
recharging will shorten battery life. Take rare not to
allow a battery to be needlessly discharged.
aged components as required.
The canister is typically located under one of the
front fenders, however on some later models it may
be under the rear of the vehicle, near the gas tank,
r on most models # See Figure 53
A battery that is not sealed must be checked peri-
odically for electrolyte level. You cannot add water to
a sealed maintenance-free battery (though not all
maintenance-free batteries are sealed); however, a
sealed battery must also be checked for proper elec-
trolyte level, as indicated by the color of the built-in
hydrometer “eye.”
Always keep the battery cables and terminals free
of corrosion. Check these components about once a
year. Refer to the removal, installation and cleaning
procedures outlined in this section,
Keep the top of the battery clean, as a film of dirt
can help completely discharge a battery that is not
used for long periods. A solution of baking soda and
water may be used for cleaning, but be careful to
flush this off with clear water. DO NOT let any of the
solution into the filler holes. Baking soda neutralizes
battery acid and will de-activate a battery cell.
Batteries in vehicles which are not operated on a
regular basis can fall victim to parasitic loads (small
BA-ITERY FLUID
Check the battery electrolyte level at least once a
month. or more often in hot weather or during peri-
ods of extended vehicle operation. On non-sealed
batteries, the level can be checked either through the
case on translucent batteries or by removing the cell
caps on opaque-cased types. The electrolyte level in
each cell should be kept filled to the split ring inside
each ceil, or the line marked on the outside of the
case.
If the level is low, add only distilled water through
the opening until the level is correct. Each cell is sep-
arate from the others, so each must be checked and
filled individuallv. Distilled water should be used, be-
cause the chemicals and minerals found in most
drinking water are harmful to the battery and could
significantly shorten its life.
If water is added in freezing weather, the vehicle
should be driven several miles to allow the water to
mix with the electrolyte. Otherwise, the battery could
freeze.
current drains which are constantly drawing current
from the battery). Normal parasitic loads may drain a Although some maintenance-free batteries have
removable cell caos for access to the electrolyte, the
cause a short circuit, leading to sparks and possible
personal injury.
Do not smoke, have an open flame or create
sparks near a battery; the gases contained in the bat-
tery are very explosive and, if ignited, could cause se-
vere injury or death.
All batteries, regardless of type, should be care-
fully secured by a battery hold-down device. If this is
not done, the battery terminals or casing may crack
from stress applied to the battery during vehicle oper-
ation. A battery which is not secured may allow acid
to leak out, making it discharge faster; such leaking m / built-in hydrometer. .

*Although the readings from built-in hy-
drometers found in sealed batteries may
vary, a green eye usually indicates a prop
erly charged battery with sufficient fluid
level. A dark eye is normally an indicator of a
battery wlth sufficient fluid, but one which
may be low in charge. And a light or yellow
eye is usually an indication that electrolyte
supply has dropped below the necessary
tcu1@32 Fig. 53 A typical location for the built-in hv- level for battery (and hydrometer) operation.
drometer on maintenan
ce-free batteries ’ I In this last case. sealed batteries with an in-
sufficient electrolyte level must usually be
’ discarded.

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-21
IWSIZXJ FM. 83 A hose clamn that is taa tiaht can
Fig. 82 The cracks developing along this
hose are a result of age-related hardening caise older hoses td separate and ‘iear on
either side of the clamp
lCCS1221 Fig. 84 A soft spongy hose (identifiable by
1 the swollen section) will eventually burst
and should be replaced
IEMOVAL &,INSTALLATION '
1. Remove the radiator pressure cap. her of the sorina tension tvoe (which reouire oliers
3 squeeze the 6bs and loosenj or of the’screw ten-
ion type (which require screw or hex drivers to
oosen). Pull the clamps back on the hose away from
he connection. Never remove the pressure cap while the en-
gine is running, or personal injury from
scalding hot coolant or steam may result. If
possible, wait until the engine has cooled to
remove the pressure cap. If this is not possi-
ble, wrap a thick cloth around the pressure
cap and turn it slowly to the stop. Step back
while the pressure is released from the cool-
ing system. When you are sure all the pres-
sure has been released, use the cloth to turn
and remove the cao.
2. Position a clean container under the radiator
and/or engine draincock or plug, then open the drain
and allow the cooling system to drain to an appropri-
ate level. For some upper hoses, only a little coolant
must be drained. To remove hoses positioned lower
on the engine, such as a lower radiator hose, the en-
tire cooling system must be emptied.
When draining coolant, keep in mind that
cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene gly-
col antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink
any that is left in an uncovered container or
in puddles on the ground. This will prove fa-
tal in sufficient quantity. Always drain
coolant into a sealable container. Coolant
may be reused unless it is contaminated or
several years old. 9. Close the radiator or engine drains and prop-
erly refill the cooling system with the clean drained
engine coolant or a suitable mixture of ethylene gly-
cot coolant and water.
10. If available, install a pressure tester and check
for leaks. If a pressure tester is not available, run the
engine until normal operating temperature is reached
(allowing the system to naturally pressurize), then
check for leaks.
If you are checking for leaks with the system
at normal operating temperature, BE EX-
TREMELY CAREFUL not to touch any moving
or hot engine parts. Once temperature has
been reached. shut the enaine OFF. and
Fig. 85 Hoses are likely to deteriorate from
the inside if the cooling system is not peri-
odically flushed check for leaks around the-hose fittings and
connections which were removed earlier.
INSPECTION
b See Figures 88 and 87
The CV (Constant Velocity) boots should be
checked for damage each time the oil is changed and
any other time the vehicle is raised for service. These
boots keep water, grime, dirt and other damaging
matter from entering the CV-joints. Any of these
could cause early CV-joint failure which can be ex-
pensive to repair. Heavy grease thrown around the in-
side of the front wheel(s) and on the brake
caliper/drum can be an indication of a torn boot.
Thorouahlv check the boots for missina clamos and 3. Loosen the hose clamps at each end of the
rose requiring replacement. Clamps are usually ei-
4. Twist, pull and slide the hose off the fitting,
sking care not to damage the neck of the component
rom which the hose is being removed.
*If the hose is stuck at the connection, do
lot try to insert a screwdriver or other sharp
ool under the hose end in an eff art to free it,
IS the connection and/or hose may become
lamaged. Heater connections especially
nay be easily damaged by such a procedure.
f the hose is to be replaced, use a single-
!dged razor blade to make a slice along the
lortion of the hose which is stuck on the con-
section, perpendicular to the end of the
lose. 00 not cut deep so as to prevent dam-
aging the connection. The hose can then be
keeled from the connection and discarded. Fig. 86 CV-boots must be inspected period-
5.. Clean both hose mounting connections. In-
,pect the condition of the hose clamps and replace
hem, if necessary.
To install:
6. Dip the ends of the new hose into clean en-
fine coolant to ease installation.
7. Slide the clamps over the replacement hose,
hen slide the hose ends over the connections into
rosition.
8. Position and secure the clamps at least l/d in.
6.35mm) from the ends of the hose. Make sure they
Ire located beyond the raised bead of the connector.

l-28 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
may result in skin or eye irritation or frostbite. Al- formed to help maintain the efficiency of the vehicle’s
though low in toxicity (due to chemical stability), in- A/C system. For preventive maintenance, perform the
The idle speed is factory set and usually no ad- halation of concentrated refrigerant fumes is danger- following:
justments are ever necessary. If an adjustment be- ous and can result in death; cases of fatal cardiac
l The easiest and most important preventive
comes necessary, first check that the spark plugs, in- arrhythmia have been reported in people accidentally maintenance for your A/C system is to be sure that it
jectors, idle air control servo and compression subjected to high levels of refrigerant. Some early is used on a regular basis. Running the system for
pressure are all normal. symptoms include loss of concentration and drowsi- five minutes each month (no matter what the season)
Data from various sensors and switches are used ness. + will help ensure that the seals and all internal compo-
by the ECU to determine the proper fuel/air mixture
for optimal engine performance. cGeneraiiy, the limit for exposure is lower nents remain lubricated.
for R-134a than it is for R-12. Exceptional *Some newer vehicles automatically oper-
care must be practiced when handling R- ate the A/C system compressor whenever the
134a. windshield defroster is activated. When run-
Also, refrigerants can decompose at high tempera- ning, the compressor lubricates the A/C sys
tures (near gas heaters or open flame), which may re- tern components; therefore, the A/C system
SYSTEM SERVICE& REPAIR suit in hydrofluoric acid, hydrochloric acid and phos- would not need to be operated each month.
gene (a fatal nerve gas). * In order to prevent heater core freeze-up during
R-12 refrigerant can damage the environment be- A/C operation, it is necessary to maintain proper an-
cause it is a Chlorofluorocarbon (CFC), which has tifreeze protection. Use a hand-held coolant tester
been proven to add to ozone layer depletion, leading (hydrometer) to periodically check the condition of
to increasing levels of UV radiation. UV radiation has the antifreeze in your engine’s cooling system.
been linked with an increase in skin cancer, suppres-
sion of the human immune system, an increase in *Antifreeze should not be used longer than
cataracts, damage to crops, damage to aquatic organ- the manufacturer specifies.
isms, an increase in ground-level ozone, and in- . For efficient operation of an air conditioned ve-
creased global warming. hicle’s cooling system, the radiator cap should have a
R-134a refrigerant is a greenhouse gas which, if holding pressure which meets manufacturers specifi-
allowed to vent into the atmosphere, will contribute to cations. A cap which fails to hold these pressures
global warming (the Greenhouse Effect). should be replaced.
It is usually more economically feasible to have a
l Any obstruction of or damage to the condenser
certified MVAC automotive technician perform A/C configuration will restrict air flow which is essential
system service on your vehicle. Some possible rea- to its efficient operation. It is, therefore, a good rule
sons for this are as follows: to keep this unit clean and in proper physical shape.
l While it is illegal to service an A/C system
without the proper equipment, the home mechanic ti See Figure 122
*it is recommended that the A/C svstem be
serviced by an EPA Section 609 cehified au-
tomotivetechnicfan utilizing a refrigerant re-
covery/recycling machfne.
The do-it-yourselfer should not service his/her
own vehicle’s A/C system for many reasons, includ-
ing legal concerns, personal injury, environmental
damage and cost. The following are some of the rea-
sons why you may decide not to service your own ve-
hicle’s A/C system.
According to the U.S. Clean Air Act, it is a federal
crime to service or repair (involving the refrigerant) a
Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC) system for
money without being EPA certified. It is also illegal to
vent R-12 and R-134a refrigerants into the atmos-
phere. Selling or distributing A/C system refrigerant
(in a container which contains less than 20 pounds oi
refrigerant) to any person who is not EPA 609 certi-
fied is also not allowed by law.
State and/or local laws may be more strict than the
federal regulations, so be sure to check with your
state and/or local authorities for further information.
For further federal information on the legality of ser-
vicing your AK system, call the EPA Stratospheric
Ozone Hotline.
*Federal law dictates that a fine of up to
$25,000 may be levied on people convicted
of venting refrigerant into the atmosphere.
Additionally, the EPA may pay up to $10,000
for information or services leading to a crimf
nai conviction of the violation of these laws.
When servicing an A/C system you run the risk of
handling or coming in contact with refrigerant, which
Fig. 122 A label with information concern-
ing the A/C system is typically located in the
engine compartment
f would haveto purchase an expensive refrigerant re-
covery/recycling machine to service his/her own ve-
hicle.
l Since only a certified person may purchase re-
frigerant-according to the Clean Air Act, there are
specific restrictions on selling or distributing A/C
system refrigerant-it is legally impossible (unless
certified) for the home mechanic to service his/her
own vehicle. Procuring refrigerant in an illegal fash-
ion exposes one to the risk of paying a $25,000 fine
to the EPA.
R-12 Refrigerant Conversion
If your vehicle still uses R-12 refrigerant, one
way to save A/C system costs down the road is to invesh-
gate the possibility of having your system converted
to R-134a. The older R-12 systems can be easily
converted to R-134a refrigerant by a certified auto-
motive technician by installing a few new compo-
nents and changing the system oil.
The cost of R-12 is steadily rising and will con-
tinue to increase, because it is no longer imported or
manufactured in the United States. Therefore, it is of-
ten possible to have an R-12 system converted to R-
134a and recharged for less than it would cost to just
charge the system with R-12.
If you are interested in having your system con-
verted, contact local automotive service stations for
more details and information.
u See Figures 123 and 124
Although the A/C system should not be serviced
by the do-it-yourselfer, preventive maintenance can
be practiced and A/C system inspections can be per- Fig. 123 A coolant tester can be used to de-
1 termine the freezing and boiling levels of
the coolant in your vehicle
Fig. 124 To ensure efficient cooling system
operation, inspect the radiator cap gasket
and seal

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANC-E 1133
Used fluids such as engine oil, transaxle fluid, an-
tifreeze and brake fluid are hazardous wastes and
must be disposed of properly. Before draining any
fluids, consult with your local authorities; in many ar-
eas, waste oil, antifreeze, etc. is being accepted as a
part of recycling programs. A number of service sta-
tions and auto parts stores are also accepting waste
fluids for recycling.
Be sure of the recycling center’s policies before
draining any fluids, as many will not accept different
fluids that have been mixed together.
ENGINE OIL
6 See Figure 148
WMitsubishi recommends that SAE 5W-30
viscosity engine oil should be used for all clia
mate conditions, however, SAE low-30 is ac
ceptable for vehicles operated in moderate-
to-hot climates. the SAE number, the lighter the oil; the lower the vis-
cosity, the easier it is to crank the engine in cold
weather but the less the oil will lubricate and protect
the engine in high temperatures. This number is
marked on every oil container.
Oil viscosity’s should be chosen from those oils
recommended for the lowest anticipated temperatures
during the oil change interval. Due to the need for an
oil that embodies both good lubrication at high tem-
peratures and easy cranking in cold weather, multi-
grade oils have been developed. Basically, a multi-
grade oil is thinner at low temperatures and thicker at
high temperatures. For example, a low-40 oil (the W
stands for winter) exhibits the characteristics of a 10
weight (SAE 10) oil when the car is first started and
the oil is cold. Its lighter weight allows it to travel to
the lubricating surfaces quicker and offer less resis-
tance to starter motor cranking than, say, a straight
30 weight (SAE 30) oil. But atier the ensine reaches
operating temperature, the low-40 oil begins acting
like straight 40 weight (SAE 40) oil, its heavier weight
providing greater lubrication with less chance of
foaming than a straight 30 weight oil. Synthetic oil is not for every car and every type of
driving, so you should consider your engine’s condi-
tion and your type of driving. Also, check your car’s
warranty conditions regarding the use of synthetic oils.
FUEL
All models equipped with a SOHC (Single Over-
head Camshaft) engine are designed to operate using
regular unleaded fuel with a minimum of 87 octane.
All models equipped with a DOHC (Dual Overhead
Camshaft) engine are designed to operate using reg-
ular unleaded fuel with a minimum of 91 octane. Mit-
subishi warns that using gasoline with a lower octane
rating can cause persistent and heavy knocking, and
may cause internal engine damage.
If your vehicle is having problems with rough idle
or hesitation when the enoine is cold, it mav be
caused by low volatility fuel. If this occurs, iry a dif-
ferent grade or brand of fuel.
'OPERATION 1~ FOREIGN COUNTRIES
lccS1235 Fig. 148 look for the API oil identification
Non-detergent motor oils or straight mineral
label when choosing your enaine oil oils should not be used in your engine.
When adding oil to the crankcase or changing the
0 Nil or filter, it is important that oil of an equal quality
I original equipment be used in your car. The use of
. tc mtenor 011s may void the warranty, damage your en-
gine, or both. __
The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) grade
number of oil indicates the viscosity of the oil (its
ability to lubricate at a given temperature). The lower
Fig. 149 Grasp the oil level dipstick and pull
upward to remove it from the dipstick
tube
The API (American Petroleum Institute) designa-
tions, also found on the oil container, indicates the
classification of engine oil used under certain given
operating conditions. Only oils designated for use
Service SJ heavy duty detergent should be used in
your car. Oils of the SJ type perform may functions If you plan to drive your car outside the United
States or Canada, there is a possibility that fuels will
be too low in anti-knock quality and could produce
engine damage. It is wise to consult with local au-
thorities upon arrival in a foreign country to deter-
mine the best fuels available.
inside the engine besides their basic lubrication.
Through a balanced system of metallic detergents
and polymeric dispersants, the oil prevents high and
low temperature deposits and also keeps sludge and
dirt particles in suspension. Acids, particularly sulfu-
OILLEVELCHECK ric acid, as well as other by-products of engine com-
bustion are neutralized by the oil. If these acids are
# See Figures 149, 150, and 151
allowed to concentrate, thev can cause corrosion and
rapid wear of the internal engine parts.
Synthetic Oil
There are many excellent synthetic and fuel-effi-
cient oils currently available that can provide better
gas mileage, longer service life and, in some cases,
better engine protection. These benefits do not come
without a few hitches, however; the main one being
the price of synthetic oil, which is significantly more
expensive than conventional oil.
.
The EPA warns that urolonoed contact with used engine oil ma; cause-a number of skin
disorders, including cancer! You should
make every effort to minimize your exposure
to
used engine oil. Protective gloves should
be worn when changing the oil. Wash your
hands and any other exposed skin areas as
soon as possible after exposure to used en-
gine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand
cleaner should be used.
Fig. 150 Wipe the dipstick clean and rein-
sert it into the dipstick
tube to get the cor-
rect oil level The engine oil dipstick is typically located in the
Fig. 151 The oil level should be between the
marks/notches on the dipstick

.
l-34 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Engine oil level should be checked every time you
put fuel in the vehicle or are under the hood perform- miles of highway driving. Fluid which is warmed to
normal operating temperature will flow faster, drain
ing other maintenance.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. The enaine mav be either hot or cold when
, if it is hot, wait a few min- checking oil level. The EPA warns that prolonged contact with
used engine oil may cause a num’ * * *
dianrAnrr inrldinn ranrnrl V#lll more completely and remove more contaminants
frnm tho clnnine
utes after the engine has been turned OFF to allow the
oil to drain back into the crankcase. If the engine is
cold, do not start it before checking the oil level. point on the oil pan. If not, you may have to raise the
vehicle slightly higher on one jackstand (side) than
3. Open the hood and locate the engine oil dip-
stick. Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it clean,
and reinsert it. Make sure the diDstick is fullv in-
serted.
4. Pull the dipstick from its tube again. Holding it to used engin
be worn whet
handsandan
so*m ..#a . . . . .
IDer 01 SKlll u,yu,u=,+, ,,,u,uu,,,u uu,,u=, i , vu should
uff art to minimize your exposure
le oil. Protective gloves should
1 changing the oil. Wash your
y other exposed skin areas as
111 aJ vv4ble after exposure to used en-
m nil St-mn mwl w&or nr umtarlncr hand gin Y “II. ““up “ll” .,U.“I, “rn W.Y.“. .““I .I....” cleaner should be used.
horizontally, read the oil level. The oilshould be be-
tween the MIN and MAX marks or the notches on the
dipstick. If the oil is below the MIN mark or lower
notch, add oil of the proper viscosity through the
capped opening of the valve cover. *The engine oil and oil filter should be
changed at the recommended intervals on
the Maintenance Chart. Though some manu-
facturers have at times recommended chang-
ing the filter only at every other oil change, ’
Chilton recommends that you always change
ll”,,, Cl>” ““y”‘“. 1. Raise and support the vehicle safely on jack-
stands. Make sure the oil drain olua is at the lowest
the other.
2. Before you crawl under the vehicle, take a look
at where you will be working and gather all the nec-
essary tools, such as a few wrenches or a ratchet and
strip of sockets, the drain pan, some clean rags and,
if the oil filter is more accessible from underneath the
vehicle, you will also want to grab a bottle of oil, the
new filter and a filter wrench at this time.
5. Reolace the diostick. and check the level aaain
. The benefit of fresh oil
p See Figures 152 thru 153
The oil and filter should be changed every 7,500
miles (12,000 km) under normal service and every
3,000 miles (5,000 km) under severe service.
93151p-55 Fig. 152 loosen the drain plug on the en-
a wrench. The drain plug’s 3. Position the drain pan beneath the oil pan
drain plug. Keep in mind that the fast flowing oil,
which will spill out as you pull the plug from the pan,
will flow with enough force that it could miss the pan.
Position the drain pan accordingly and be ready to
move the pan more directly beneath the plug as the
oil flow lessens to a trickle.
4. Loosen the drain ~lua with a wrench (or socket
and driver), then carefuliy unscrew the plug with your
fingers. Use a rag to shield your fingers from the
heat. Push in on the plug as you unscrew it so you
draining the oil, make sure that the engine is at oper- can feel when all of the screw threads are out of the
ating temperature. Hot oil will hold more impurities hole (and so you will keep the oil from seeping past
in suspension and will flow better, allowing the re- the threads until you are ready to remove the plug).
moval of more oil and dirt. You can then remove the plug quickly to avoid hav-
It is a good idea to warm the engine oil first so it ing hot oil run down your arm. This will also help as-
will flow better. This can be accomolished bv 15-20 sure that have the plug in your hand, not in the bot-
tom of a pan of hot oil.
Fig. 153 When loosened sufficiently, slowly
turn the drain plug by hand, keeping con- Fig. 154 When you are ready, carefully pull
Fig. 156 Also inspect the drain plug th
before installing it back into the oil
Fig. 155 Clean and inspect the threads on
the oil pan Make sure the gasket on the drain plug is
in place and does not require replacement Fig. 157 A plier-type filter wrench Is used
here to loosen the filter

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-35
Fig. 158 When the filter is sufficiently loos-
Fig. 181 Before installing a new oil filter,
clean the gasket mounting surface of the oil
filter housing and inspect the threads Fig. 182 Loosen and remove the oil filler
cap . . .
surface. When you tighten the filter, rotate it about a
quarter-turn after it contacts the mounting boss (or Fig. 183 . , , then insert a funnel, and pour
oil directly into the engine
follow any instructions
which are provided on the fil-
ter or parts box).
Operating the engine without the proper
amount and type of engine oil will result In
severe engtne damage. FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
For all vehicles with manual transaxles, use Hy-
poid gear oil SAE 75W-85W, or 75W-9OW conform-
ing to API specifications GL-4 or higher.
LEVELCHECK Be careful of the oil; when at operating tem-
perature, it is hot enough to cause a severe
bum.
5. Allow the oil to drain until nothing but a few
drops come out of the drain hole. Check the drain
plug to make sure the threads and sealing surface are
not damaged. Carefully thread the plug into position
and tighten it snug, and give a slight additional turn.
You don’t want the plug to fall out (as you would
quickly become stranded), but the pan threads are
EASILY stripped from overtightening (and this can be
time consuming and/or costly to fix).
6. To remove the filter, you may need an oil filter
wrench since the filter may have been fitted too
tightly and/or the heat from the engine may have
made it even tighter. A filter wrench can be obtained
at any auto parts store and is well-worth the invest-
ment. Loosen the filter with the filter wrench. With a
rag wrapped around the filter, unscrew the filter from
the boss on the side of the engine. Be careful of hot
oil that will run down the side of the filter. Make sure
that your drain pan is under the filter before you start
to remove it from the engine; should some of the hot
oil happen to get on you, there will be a place to
dump the filter in a hurry and the filter will usually
spill a good bit of dirty oil as it is removed.
7. Wipe the base of the mounting boss with a
clean, dry cloth. When you install the new filter,
smear a small amount of fresh oil on the gasket with
your finger, just enough to coat the entire contact 8. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the
vehicle, then IMMEDIATELY refill the engine
crankcase with the proper amount of oil. DO NOT
WAIT TO DO THIS because if you forget and some-
one tries to start the vehicle, severe engine damage
will occur.
9. Refill the engine crankcase slowly, checking
the level oflen, you may r..‘:-- U.-1 :L ..-..” II.. .-L-e
lVL,VY II,UL II UUUU,,J ,“,\U.J
less than the amount of oil listed in the capacity chart
to refill the crankcase. But, that is only until the en-
gine is run and the oil filter is filled with oil. To make
sure the proper level is obtained, run the engine to
normal operating temperature, shut the engine OFF,
allow the oil to drain back into the oil pan, and
recheck the level. Top off the oil at this time to the fill
mark.
*If the vehicle Is not resting on level
ground, the oil level reading on the dipstick
may be slightly off. Be sure to check the level
only when the vehicle is sitting level.
10. Drain your used oil in a suitable container for
recycling. b See Flgures 184 and 185
Inspect each component for leaking. Check the oil
level by removing the filler plug. If the oil is contami-
nated, it is necessary to replace it with new oil. Check
the oil level as follows:
89571gM Fig. 164 Typtcal manual transaxle drain and
filler plug location

.
l-36 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Install the drain plug and tighten to 22 ft. Ibs.
(304Nm)
5. Refill the transaxle to the proper level, as
shown in the Capacities chart, with the appropriate
fluid. The oil level should be at the bottom of the oil
filler hole. I
6. When the oil reaches the orooer level, install
the filler plug and tighten to 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm).
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
8957i565 Fig, 165 Oil, when at the proper level, will
reach the lower edge of tC=+ frfr*r u*rn -non-
ing Mitsubishi recommends the use of Mercon@auto-
matic transmission fluid.
LEVELCHECK
Fig. 170 The fluid level is OK if it is within
the between the HOT and ADD areas on the
&&i& Do not overfill the transaxle or
-.*".."... -- .*"- problems could o ccur
1. Makesure the vehicle is oarked on a level sur-
face.
2. Remove the filler plug and make sure the oil
level is up to the lower edge of the filler plug hole.
3. Check to be sure that the transaxle oil is not
noticeably dirty and that it has a suitable viscosity. u See Figures 168,169, and 170
fluid is at normal operating temperature, drive the ve- The transaxle dipstick is located behind the air in-
hicle at least 10 miles. let hose, towards the firewall.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. The transaxle should be at normal operating
temperature when checking fluid level. To ensure the 5. Pull the dipstick from its tube again. Holding it
horizontally, road the fluid level. The fkrid should be
between the MIN and MAX mark. If the fluid is below
the MIN mark, add fluid through the dipstick tube.
DRAIN & REFILL
6. Insert the dipstick, and check the level again
after adding any fluid. Be careful not to overfill the
transaxle.
3. With the selector lever in P and the parking
DRAIN & REFILL u See Figures 166 and 167
1. Make sure the vehicle is parked on a level sur-
face.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Place a brake applied, start the engine.
4. Open the hood and locate the transaxle fluid
dipstick. Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it clean,
and reinsert it. Make sure the dipstick is fully in-
serted.
suitable drain pan under the manual transaxle.
3. Remove the filler plug and the drain plug and
allow the oil to drain completely.
Fig. 166 The automatic transaxle dipstick is
typically located under the air cleaner inlet
Fig. 166 Use a box-end wrench to loosen
the manual transaxle drain plug . . . tube. Pull the dipstick up to remove it from
the transaxle
Fig. 169 Wipe the dipstick clean and Insert
/fluid level reading ., it mto the transaxle agam to get the correct
j The fluid should be changed according to the
schedule in the Maintenance Intervals chart. If the car
is normally used in severe service, such as stop and
start driving, trailer towing, or the like, the interval
should be halved. If the car is driven under especially
nasty conditions, such as in heavy city traffic where
the temperature normally reaches 90°F (32%), or in
very hilly or mountainous areas, or in police, taxi, or b See Figures 171 thru 177
1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Place a suitable drain pan under the transaxle
drain plug.
3. Remove the transaxle pan drain plug. Let the
fluid completely drain out of the transaxle.
4. Install the drain plug and tighten it to 22-25 ft.
lbs. (30-35 Nm).
5. If equipped, remove the drain plug on the dif-
ferential of the transaxle.
6. Install the differential drain plug and tighten ft
to 22-25 ft. Ibs. (30-35 Nm).
7. Remove the drain pan.
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. Fill the transaxle through the dipstick to the
proper level.
10. Place the gear selector lever in P and start the
engine. Run the engine at idle, engage the emergency
brake and hold the brake pedal down. Move the gear
selector lever through all transaxle ranges for approx-
imately 5 minutes.
11. Return the selector lever to P and leave the
engine running at idle.
12. Check the transaxle fluid level. The fluid level
at normal operating temperature should read within
the crosshatched area of the fluid level dipstick.
13. If the fluid level reads below the crosshatched
area, adjust the level by adding fluid in small incre-
ments until the correct fluid level is obtained.
PAN &FILTER SERVICE
b See Figures 178 thru 184