1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE ignition

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE 1-29
i
*Bug screens which are mounted in front of
the condenser (unless they are original
equipment) are regarded as obstructtons.
l The condensation drain tube expels any water
which accumulates on the bottom of the evaporator
housing into the engine compartment. If this tube is
obstructed, the air conditioning performance can be
restricted and condensation buildup can spill over
onto the vehicle’s floor.
l Make sure the air passage selection lever is
operating correctly. Start the engine and warm it to
normal operating temperature, then make sure the
temperature selection lever is operating correctly.
-w
~1 ELEMENT(REFILL)CARE& REPLACEMENT
SYSTEM INSPECTION
b See Figure 125 b See Figures 126 thru 135
For maximum effectiveness and longest element
Although the A/C system should not be serviced
by the do-it-yourselfer, preventive maintenance can
be practiced and A/C system inspections can be per-
formed to help maintain the efficiency of the vehicle’s
A/C system. For A/C system inspection, perform the
following:
The easiest and often most important check for the
air conditioning system consists of a visual inspec-
tion of the system components. Visually inspect the
air conditioning system for refrigerant leaks, dam-
aged compressor clutch, abnormal compressor drive
belt tension and/or condition, plugged evaporator
drain tube, blocked condenser fins, disconnected or
broken wires, blown fuses, corroded connections and
poor insulation.
A refrigerant leak will usually appear as an oily
residue at the leakage point in the system. The oily
residue soon picks up dust or dirt particles from the
surrounding air and appears greasy. Through time,
this will build up and appear to be a heavy dirt im-
pregnated grease.
For a thorough visual and operational inspection,
check the following: * Check the surface of the radiator and con-
denser for dirt, leaves or other material which might
block air flow.
l Check for kinks in hoses and lines. Check the
system for leaks.
l Make sure the drive belt is properly tensioned.
When the air conditioning is operating, make sure the
drive belt is free of noise or slippage.
l Make sure the blower motor operates at all ap-
propriate positions, then check for distribution of the
air from all outlets with the blower on HIGH or MAX.
*Keep in mind that under conditions of high
humidity, air discharged from the A/C vents
may not feel as cold as expected, even if the
system is working properly. This is because
vaporized moisture in humid air retains heat
more effectively than dry air, thereby making
humid air more difficult to cool.
lifp thp winrkhi&i nnri winor hlarlP~ shmM hP kmt . ..“. .I.” . . * ““I.. “.” I..” ...r”* “.“““” “, ,““,” “” ,~“r~ clean. Dirt, tree sap, road tar and so on will cause
streaking, smearing and blade deterioration if left on
the glass. It is advisable to wash the windshield care-
fully with a commercial glass cleaner at least once a
month. Wipe off the rubber blades with the wet rag
afterwards. Do not attempt to move wipers across the
windshield by hand; damage to the motor and drive
mechanism will result.
To inspect and/or replace the wiper blade ele-
ments, place the wiper switch in the LOW speed po-
sition and the ignition switch in the ACC position.
When the wiper blades are approximately vertical on
the windshield, turn the ignition switch to OFF.
Examine the wiper blade elements. If they are
found to be cracked, broken or torn, they should be
replaced immediately. Replacement intervals will vary
with usage, although ozone deterioration usually lim-
its element life to about one year. If the wiper pattern
is smeared or streaked, or if the blade chatters across
the glass, the elements should be replaced. It is easi-
est and most sensible to replace the elements in
pairs.
If your vehicle is equipped with aftermarket blades,
there are several different types of refills and your vehi-
tcca-23 Fig. 126 Bosch@ wiper blade and fft kit
Fig. 129 T&o* wioer blade and fit kit tCS1224
lW1Z?5 Fig. 127 LexoP wiper blade and fit kit
Fig. 128 Pylon@ wiper blade and adapter
Fig. 131 To remove and install a LexoP
Fig, 130 Tripledge@ wiper blade and fit kit wiper blade refill, slip out the old insert and
slide in a new one

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-43
l Special car washing detergent is the best to
use. Liquid dishwashing detergent can remove wax
and leave the car’s paint unprotected and in addition
some liquid detergents contains abrasives which can
scratch the paint.
l Bird droppings should be removed from the
paintwork as soon as possible, otherwise the finish
may be permanently stained.
When the car is driven immediately after be-
ing washed, apply the brakes several times
93151p14 93151p12 Fig. 215 Twist the reservoir cap, then lift up
I I
in order to remove any moisture from the
Fig. 216 Wipe the dipstick off, reinsert it braking surfaces.
on the integral cap/dipstick assembly
into the reservoir and check the level
I
Engine cleaning agents should not be used
when the engine is warm, a fire risk is pre-
sent as most engine cleaning agents are
highly flammable.
sition of the fluid against the mark on the dipstick,
Add fluid to the reservoir if the fluid does not reach
the appropriate full line.
On most models, the manufacturer doesn’t install
lubrication fittings on lube points on the steering
linkage or suspension. However, if the lubrication
point does have a grease fitting, lubricate with multi-
purpose NLGI No. 2 (Lithium base) grease.
CAR WASHING
The car should be washed at regular intervals to
remove dirt, dust, insects, and tar and other possibly
damaging stains that can adhere to the paint and may
cause damage. Proper exterior maintenance also
helps in the resale value of the vehicle by maintaining
its like-new appearance.
Mt is particularly important ta frequentiy
wash the car in the wintertime to prevent cor-
rosion, when salt has been used on the roads.
There are many precautions and tips on washing,
including the following:
l When washing the car, do not expose it do di-
rect sunlight.
. Use lukewarm water to soften the dirt before
you wash with a sponge, and plenty of water, to avoid
scratching.
l A detergent can be used to facilitate the soften-
ing of dirt and oil. * A water-soluble grease solvent may be used in
cases of sticky dirt. However, use a washplace with a
drainage separator.
l Dry the car with a clean chamois and remem-
ber to clean the drain holes in the doors and rocker
panels.
l If equipped with a power radio antenna, it must
be dried after washing.
Never clean the bumpers with gasoline or
paint thinner, always use the same agent as
used on the painted surfaces of the vehicle.
l Tar spots can be removed with tar remover or
kerosene after the car has been washed.
l A stiff-bristle brush and lukewarm soapy water
can be used to clean the wiper blades. Frequent
cleaning improves visibility when using the wipers
considerably.
l Wash off the did from the underside (wheel
housings, fenders, etc.).
l In areas of high industrial fallout, more fre-
quent washing is recommended.
During high pressure washing the spray nonle
must never be closer to the vehicle than 13
inches (30cm). Do not spray into the locks.
l When washing or steam cleaning the engine,
avoid spraying water or steam directly on the electri-
cal components or near the distributor or ignition
components. After cleaning the engine, the spark
plug wells should be inspected for water and blown
dry if necessary. Automatic car washing is a simple and quick way
to clean your car, but it is worth remembering that it
is not as thorough as when you yourself clean the
car. Keeping the underbody clean is vitally important,
and some automatic washers do not contain equip-
ment for washing the underside of the car.
When driving into an automatic was, make sure
the following precautions have been taken:
l Make sure all windows are up, and no objects
that you do not want to get wet are exposed.
l In some cases, rotating the side view mirrors
in can help to avoid possible damage.
l If your car is equipped with a power antenna,
lower it. If your vehicle has a solid mounted, non-
power antenna, it is best to remove it, but this is not
always practical. Inspect the surroundings to reduce
the risk of possible damage, and check to see if the
antenna can be manually lowered.
Most manufacturers do not recommend auto-
matic car washing in the first six months due
to the possibility of insufficient paint curing;
a safe bet is to wait until after six months of
ownership (when purchased new) to use an
automatic car wash.
WAXING
eBefore applying wax, the vehicle must be
washed and thoroughly dried.
Waxing a vehicle can help to preserve the appear-
ante of your vehicle. A wide range of polymer-based
car waxes are available today. These waxes are easy
to use and produce a long-lasting, high gloss finish
that protects the body and paint against oxidation,
road dirt, and fading.
Sometimes, waxing a neglected vehicle, or one
that has sustained chemical or natural element dam-
age (such as acid rain) require more than waxing,
and a light-duty compound can be applied. For se-
verely damaged surfaces, it is best to consult a pro-
fessional to see what would be required to repair the
damage.
Waxing procedures differ according to manufac-
turer, type, and ingredients, so it is best to consult
the directions on the wax and/or polish purchased.

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE 1-45
SLING TYPE
WHEEL LIFT TYPE
cles
SUNG TYPE
WHEEL LIFT TYPE
FLAT BED TYPE
Fig. 220 Rear towing position-FWD vehi
cles
personal injury. Remember that batteries contain a
small amount of explosive hydrogen gas which is a
by-product of battery charging. Sparks should always
be avoided when working around batteries, especially
when attaching jumper cables. To minimize the pos-
sibility of accidental sparks, follow the procedure
carefully.
NEVER hook the batteries up in a series cir-
cuit or the entire electrical system will go up
in smoke. includino the starter!
Vehicles equipped with a diesel engine may utilize
two 12 volt batteries. If so, the batteries are con-
nected in a parallel circuit (positive terminal to posi-
tive terminal, negative terminal to negative terminal).
owrng methods
a tow truck IS used
Lrftrng method for 4 wheels-Good
Front wheels lifted-No good
Front wheels lifted-No good
Rear wheels lifted-No good
Towing by rope or cable-Good
e9571g92 qemarks
. For4WD models, the basic principle is that
all four wheels are to be rarsed before
towing.
. The shift lever should be set to 1 st gear and
the parking brake should be applied.
l The vehicle must not be towed by tofacing
only its front wheels or only the rear wheels
on a rollino dollv, because to do so will
result in d&e&ration of the visfx~s
coupling and result in the viscous coupling
causing the vehicle to jump forward
suddenly.
l If only the front wheels or only the rear
wheels are lifted for towing, the bumper
wrll bedamyd.
In addrtron. II trng of the rear wheels causes
the or1 to flow forward. and may result in
heat damage to the rear bushing of the
transfer, and so should never be done.
l The front and rear wheels must rotate
normally.
l The various mechanisms must function
normally.
l The shift lever must be set to the neutral
~Asi&n and the ignition key must be set to
Fig. 221 Towing instructions-AWD models
Hooking the batteries up in parallel circuit increases
battery cranking power without increasing total bat-
tery voltage output. Output remains at 12 volts. On
the other hand, hooking two 12 volt batteries up in a
series circuit (positive terminal to negative terminal,
positive terminal to negative terminal) increases total
battery output to 24 volts (12 volts plus 12 volts).
l Be sure that both batteries are of the same volt-
age. Vehicles covered by this manual and most vehi-
cles on the road today utilize a 12 volt charging sys-
tem.
l Be sure that both batteries are of the same po-
larity (have the same terminal, in most cases NEGA-
TIVE grounded).
l Be sure that the vehicles are not touching or a
short could occur.
l On serviceable batteries, be sure the vent cap
holes are not obstructed.
l Do not smoke or allow sparks anywhere near
the batteries.
l In cold weather, make sure the battery elec-
trolyte is not frozen, This can occur more readily in a
battery that has been in a state of discharge.
l Do not allow electrolyte to contact your skin or
clothing.
1. Make sure that the voltages of the 2 batteries
are the same. Most batteries and charging systems
are of the 12 volt variety.
MAKE CONNECTIONS IN NUMERICAL ORDER
A FIRST JUMPER CABLE
WITH CHARGED BATTERY
-
lccslQ?,Q
Fig. 222 Connect the jumper cables to the
batteries and engine in the order shown

.
I-46 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
2. Pull the jumping vehicle (with the good bat-
tery) into a position so the jumper cables can reach
the dead battery and that vehicle’s engine. Make sure
that the vehicles do NOT touch.
3. Place the transmissions/transaxles of both ve-
hicles in Neutral (MT) or P (AT), as applicable, then
firmly set their parking brakes.
*ff necessary for safety reasons, the hazard
lights on both vehicles may be operated
throughout the entire procedure without sig-
nificantiy increasing the diff icuity of jumping
the dead battery.
4. Turn all lights and accessories OFF on both
vehicles. Make sure the ignition switches on both ve-
hicles are turned to the OFF position.
5. Cover the battery cell caps with a rag, but do
not cover the terminals.
6. Make sure the terminals on both batteries are
clean and free of corrosion or proper electrical con-
nection will be impeded. If necessary, clean the bat-
tery terminals before proceeding.
7. Identify the positive (+) and negative (-) termi-
nals on both batteries.
8. Connect the first jumper cable to the positive
(t) terminal of the dead battery, then connect the
other end of that cable to the positive (t) terminal of
the booster (good) battery.
9. Connect one end of the other jumper cable to
the negative (−) terminal on the booster bat-
tery and the final cable clamp to an engine bolt head,
alternator bracket or other solid, metallic point on the
engine with the dead battery. Try to pick a ground on
the engine that is positioned away from the battery in
order to minimize the possibility of the 2 clamps
touching should one loosen during the procedure.
DO NOT connect this clamp to the negative (-) termi-
nal of the bad battery. cable on the donor battery. Disconnect the positive
cable from the donor battery and finally, disconnect
the positive cable from the formerly dead battery. Be
careful when disconnecting the cables from the posi-
tive terminals not to allow the alligator clips to touch
any metal on either vehicle or a short and sparks will
occur.
I
$ See Figures 223,224, 225,226, and 227
Your vehicle was supplied with a jack for emer-
gency road repairs. This jack is fine for changing a
flat tire or other short term procedures not requiring
you to go beneath the vehicle. If it is used in an emergency situation, carefully follow the instructions
provided either with the jack or in your owners man-
ual. Do not attempt to use the jack on any portions of
the vehicle other than specified by the vehicle manu-
facturer. Always block the diagonally opposite wheel
when using a jack.
A more convenient way of jacking is the use of a
garage or floor jack. You may use the floor jack to
raise the front of the vehicle by placing it under the
front subframe. The rear of the vehicle is most easily
raised by using the lift points on the drip rail. All
models are equipped with lift points located on the
mid- crossmember in the front and a bracket located
on the floorpan underneath the trunk.
Never place the jack under the radiator, engine or
transaxle components. Severe and expensive damage
will result when the jack is raised. Additionally, never
jack under the floorpan or
bodywork; the
metal will
Whenever you plan to work under the vehicle, you
must support it on jackstands or ramps. Never use
cinder blocks or stacks of wood to support the vehi-
cle, even if you’re only going to be under it for a few
minutes. Never crawl under the vehicle when it is
supported only by the tire-changing jack or other
*Always position a block of wood or small
rubber pad on top of the jack or jackstand to
protect the lifting point’s finish when lifting
or supporting the vehicle.
Small hydraulic, screw, or scissors jacks are satis-
factory for raising the vehicle. Drive-on trestles or
Be very careful to keep the jumper cables
away from moving parts (cooling fan, belts,
etc.) on both engines.
10. Check to make sure that the cables are routed
away from any moving parts, then start the donor ve-
hicle’s engine. Run the engine at moderate speed for
several minutes to allow the dead battery a chance to
receive some initial charge.
11. With the donor vehicle’s engine still running
slightly above idle, try to start the vehicle with the
dead battery. Crank the engine for no more than 10 &stands also on the
Fig. 225 The most practical place to place
front of the vehicle is
seconds at a time and let the starter cool for at least
20 seconds between tries. If the vehicle does not start
in 3 tries, it is likely thatsomething else is also
wrong or that the battery needs additional time to
charge.
12. Once the vehicle is started, allow it to run at
idle for a few seconds to make sure that it is operat-
ing properly.
13. Turn ON the headlights, heater blower and, if
equipped, the rear defroster of both vehicles in order
to reduce the severity of voltage spikes and subse-
quent risk of damage to the vehicles’ electrical sys-
tems when the cables are disconnected. This step is
especially important to any vehicle equipped with
computer control modules.
14. Carefully disconnect the cables in the’reverse
order of connection. Start with the negative cable that
is attached to the engine ground, then the negative Fig. 226 Place the jackstands also
subframe to support the front of the Fig. 227 All models covered by this
are equipped with lift points on t
crossmember in the front and on a

DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION SYSTEM
GENERALINFORMATION 2-2
DIAGNOSISANDTESTING 2-2
SECONDARYSPARKTEST 2-2
CYLINDERDROPTEST 2-2
ADJUSTMENTS 2-3
IGNITION COIL 2-3
TESTING 2-3
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-3
POWERTRANSISTOR
(Ignition Module) 2-4
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-4
DISTRIBUTOR 2-4
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-4 2-2
INSTALLATION 2-4
CRANKSHAFTANDCAMSHAFTPOSITION
SENSORS 2-5
DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION
SYSTEM 2-5
GENERALINFORMATION 2-5
DIAGNOSISANDTESTING 2-5
ADJUSTMENTS 2-5
IGNITION COIL(s) 2-5
TESTING 2-5
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-6
POWERTRANSISTOR
(IGNITION MODULE) 2-7
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-7
CRANKSHAFTANDCAMSHAFTPOSITION
SENSORS 2-7
FIRING ORDERS 2-7
CHARGING SYSTEM 2-8
GENERALINFORMATION 2-8
ALTERNATORPRECAUTIONS 2-8
ALTERNATOR 2-8
TESTING 2-8 I
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-9
REGULATOR 2-10
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-10
STARTING SYSTEM 2-10
GENERALINFORMATION 2-10
STARTER 2-10
TESTING 2-10
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-11
SENDING UNITS 2-11
ENGINECOOLANTTEMPERATURE
SENDING UNIT 2-11
TESTING 2-11
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-11
OIL PRESSURESENDING UNIT 2-12
TESTING 2-12
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-12

.~ P.X I_ - “, .- I .-., IS ” .~.I .r
2-2 ENGINE ELECTRICAL
nn
ity and trouble: shooting electrical circuits,
please refer to Section 6 of this manual.
I
The ignition system on the 1.5L, 1993-96 1.8L,
2.OL SOHC, 1994-98 2.4L SOHC, 3.OL SOHC, and
3.5L engines uses a pointless type distributor, whose
advance mechanism is controlled by the Engine Con-
trol Unit (ECU). On the 1.5L, 1.8L, 2.4L and 3.5L en-
gines, the distributor houses a built in ignition coil
and ignition power transistor. The 2.8L SOHC and
3.OL SOHC engines utilize a separate coil and tran-
sister assemblv.
When the ignition switch is turned ON, battery
voltage is applied to the ignition coil primary winding.
As the shaft of the distributor rotates, signals are
transmitted from the oowertrain control module to the
9105zp11 Fig. 1 This spark tester looks iust like a
Fiu. 2 This spark tester has an adjustable
spark plug, attach the clip to ground and air-gap for measuring spark strength and
crank the engine to check for spark testing different voltage ignition systems
.
ignition power trar rsistor. These signals activate the
power transistor to cause ignition coil primary wind-
ing current flow from the ignition coil negative termi-
nal through the power transistor to ground repeatedly.
This interruption induces high voltage in the ignition
coil secondarv windinas, which is diverted throuah
the distributor, spark plug cable and spark plug 6
ground, thus causing ignition in each cylinder.
I
SECONDARYSPARKTEST l;h.4-
! ,L ".~
'$ >,%
If See Figures 1 thru 6
91rJszp12 Fig. 4 This spark tester is the easiest to use
iust alace it on a plug wire and the spark
The best way to perform this procedure is to use a Fig. 3 Attach the clip to ground and crank
spark tester (available at most automotive parts stores). the engine to check for spark
I I voltage is detected and the bulb on the tof
-. will flash with each pulse
I nree types ot spark testers are commonly available.
The Neon Bulb type is connected to the spark plug
wire and flashes with each ignition pulse. The Air Gap
type must be adjusted to the individual spark plug gap
specified for the engine. The last type of spark plug
tester looks like a spark plug with a grounding clip on
the side, but there is no side electrode for the spark to
jump to. The last two types of testers allows the user to
not only detect the presence of spark, but also the in-
tensity (orange/yellow is weak, blue is strong).
1. Disconnect a spark plug wire at the spark plug
end.
2. Connect the plug wire to the spark tester and
ground the tester to an appropriate location on the
engine.
3. Crank the engine and check for spark at the
tester.
4. If spark exists at the tester, the ignition system
is functioning properly.
5. If spark does not exist at the spark plug wire,
perform diagnosis of the ignition system using indi-
vidual component diagnosis procedures,
CYLINDER DROPTEST
p See Figures 7, 8, and 9
The cylinder drop test is performed when an en-
gine misfire is evident. This test helps determine
which cylinder is not contributing the proper power.
The easiest way to perform this test is to remove the
plug wires one at a time from the cylinders with the
engine running. 1. Place the transaxle in P, engage the emer-
gency brake, and start the engine and let it idle.
2. Using a spark plug wire removing tool, prefer-
ably the plier type, carefully remove the boot from
one of the cylinders.
i ’
Make sure your body is free from touching
any part of the car which is metal. The sec-
ondary voltage in the ignition system is high and although it cannot kill you, it will shock
you and it does hurt.
3. The engine will sputter, run worse, and possi-
bly nearly stall. If this happens reinstall the plug wire
and move to the next cylinder. If the engine runs no
differently, or the difference is minimal, shut the en-
gine off and inspect the spark plug wire, spark plug,
and if necessary, perform component diagnostics as
covered in this section. Perform the test on all cylin-
ders to verify the which cylinders are suspect.

ENGINEELECTRICAL 2-3
91c6zp16 Fig. 9. . . note the idle speed and idle char-
acteristics of the engine. The cylinder(s)
with the least drag is the non-contributing
cyltnder(s) -
1
There are no adjustments to the distributor ignition
system other than the ignition timing adjustment. Re-
fer to section 1 for ignition timing adjustment.
TESTING
1.5L, 1.8L, 2.41, and 3.51 Englnes
u See Figures 10, 11, and 12
*The ignition cog is an integral part of the
distributor.
1. Measure the resistance of the primary ignition
coil as follows:
a. Unplug the electrical connector at the dis-
tributor. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resis-
tance between the two terminals of the distributor,
NOT THE WIRE HARNESS, except for the 3.5L
engine, in which you test across terminals 1 and
2 of the distributor.
b. Measure the resistance and compare to the
desired specifications of:
l 0.9-1.2 ohms on the 1.5L, 1.8L, and 2.4L
engines
l 0.5-0.7 ohms on the 35L engine
c. If the actual reading differs from the desired
specification, replace the ignition coil.
d. If the measured value is within standard al-
lowance, there are no broken wires or short cir-
cuits. 2. Measure the resistance of the secondary igni-
desired specifications of: tion coil as follows:
l 21329 kilo-ohms on the 1.5L, 1.8L, and
2.4L engines a. Insert one of the test leads into the sec-
ondary ignition coil terminal on top of the dis-
l 9-13 kilo-ohms on the 3.5L engine tributor cap.
d. If the measured value is within standard al- b. Touch the second test lead to terminal 1 or
terminal 2 of the distributor connector.
lowance, there are no broken wires or short cir-
cuits. c. Measure the resistance and comnare to the
e. If the actual reading differs from the de
sired specification, replace the ignition coi!l.
2.OL SOHC and 3.OL SOHC Engines
# See Figure 13

1. Measure the resistance of the primary ignition
coil as follows:
a. Unplug the electrical connector at the coil.
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance be-
tween the two terminals of the coil, NOT THE
WIRE HARNESS.
b. Measure the resistance and compare to the
desired specifications of:
l 0.9-1.2 ohms on the 2.OL SOHC engine l 0.72-0.88 ohms on the 3.OL SOHC engine
c. If the actual reading differs from the de-
sired specification, replace the ignition coil.
d. If the measured value is within standard al-
lowance, there are no broken wires or short cir-
cuits. 2.
desired specifications of: Measure the resistance of the secondary igni-
tion coil as follows:
l 20-29 kilo-ohms on the 2.OL SOHC en-
gine a. Insert one of the test leads into the sec-
ondary ignition coil terminal on top of the dis-
l 10.29-13.92 kilo-ohms on the 3.01 SOHC tributor cap.
engine b. Touch the second test lead to terminal 1 or
terminal 2 of the distributor connector.
d. If the measured value is within standard
allowance, there are no broken wires or short c. Measure the resistance and comoare to the
circuits.
e. If the actual reading differs from the
desired specification, replace the ignition
coi!l.
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
1.5L, 1.8L, 2.4L, and 3.5L Engines
*The ignition coil is an tntegral part of the
distributor.
2.OL SOHC and 3.OL SDHC Engines
u See Figure 14
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the coil wire from the ignition coil by
gripping the boot and not the cable.
3. Detach the electrical connectors for the coil.
High voltage terminal -r
I Q3 ‘I u,
/ - Blm/ I L tflgn
tension
terminal
,
3=%@ @l&M Fig. IO Distributor connector pins and loca-
Fig. 11 Distributor connector pins and loca- Fig. 12 Dlstrfbufor connector plus and loca-
tiou-l.LL and 1.8L engines
lion-2.4L SOHC engtne tio&.5L engine

2-4 ENGINEELECTRICAL
2. Install the distributor in the engine so the rotor
is aligned with the matchmark on the housing and the
housing is aligned with the matchmark on the engine.
4.‘ Remove the retaining screws and coil from en-
gine.
5. Installation is the reverse of the removal proce-
dure. Before removing the distributor, position No. 1
‘cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compres-
sion stroke and align the timing marks.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the ignition wire cover, if equipped.
3. Detach the distributor harness connector.
4. Remove the distributor cap with all ignition wires
still connected. Remove the coil wire, if necessary.
5. Matchmark the rotor to the distributor housing
and the distributor housing to the engine.
6. Remove the hold-down nut.
7. Carefully remove the distributor from the engine.
INSTALLATION
6 See Figures 19 and 2g
Timing Not Disturbed
1, Install a new distributor housing O-ring and 4. Attach the distributor harness connectors.
5. Install the distributor cap.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.
7. Adjust the ignition timing and tighten the hold-
down nut to 6 ft. Ibs. (11 Nm).
Timing Dlsturbed
1. Install a new distributor housing O-ring and
lubricate with clean oil.
2. Position the engine so the No. 1 piston is at
Top Dead Center (TDC) of its compression stroke
and the mark on the vibration damper is aligned with
REMOVALS& INSTALLATION lubricate with clean oil. 0 on the timing indicator.
3. Align the distributor housing and gear mating
marks. Install the distributor in the engine so the slot
or groove of the distributor’s installation flange aligns
with the distributor installation stud in the engine
block. Be sure the distributor is fully seated. Inspect
alignment of the distributor rotor making sure the ro- tnr ic dinnnd with thn qn,c$nn of the Nn innitinn
ISL, 1 AIL, 2.4L, and 3.5L Engines
The power transistor (ignition module) is an inte-
gral part of the distributor.
2.gL SDHC and 3.OL SOHC Engines
# See Figure 14
1 x Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the retaining screws and power tran-
Detach the connectors from the dis- Fig. 16 Remove the bolt holding the wire
harness and capacitor, then move the har-
ness and capacitor to the side
Fig. 18 . . . then slide the distributor from
the engine
/ tion’s-3.gL SOHC engine g3is~@ 1 Fig 14 Ignition system component loca-