1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE automatic transmission fluid

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1-2 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Chitton’s Total Car Care manual for the 199M10
Mitsubishi Mirage, Galant and Diamante is intended
to help you learn more about the inner workings of
your vehicle while saving you money on its upkeep
and operation.
The beginning of the book will likely be referred to
the most, since that is where you will find information
for maintenance and tune-up. The other sections deal
with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Oper-
ating systems from engine through brakes are cov-
ered to the extent that the average do-it-yourselfer be-
comes mechanically involved. This book will not
explain such things as rebuilding a differential for the
simple reason that the expertise required and the in-
vestment in special tools make this task uneconomi-
cal. It will, however, give you detailed instructions to
help you change your own brake pads and shoes, re-
place spark plugs, and perform many more jobs that
can save you money, give you personal satisfaction
and help you avoid expensive problems.
A secondary purpose of this book is a reference for
owners who want to understand their vehicle and/or
their mechanics better. In this case, no tools at all are
required.
Before removing any bolts, read through the entire
procedure. This will give you the overall view of what
tools and supplies will be required. There is nothing
more frustrating than having to walk to the bus stop
on Monday morning because you were short one bolt
on Sunday afternoon. So read ahead and plan ahead.
Each operation should be approached logically and
all procedures thoroughly understood before attempt-
ing any work.
All sections contain adjustments, maintenance, re-
moval and installation procedures, and in some cases,
repair or overhaul procedures. When repair is not con-
sidered practical, we tell you how to remove the part
and then how to install the new or rebuilt replacement.
In this way, you at least save labor costs. “Backyard”
repair of some components is just not practical.
Many procedures in this book require you to “label
and disconnect. . ” a group of lines, hoses or wires.
Don’t be lulled into thinking you can remember where
everything goes-you won’t. If you hook up vacuum
or fuel lines incorrectly, the vehicle may run poorly, if
at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you
may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.
You don’t need to know the official or engineering
name for each hose or line. A piece of masking tape
on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to
assign your own label such as the letter A or a short name. As long as you remember your own code, the
lines can be reconnected by matching similar letters
or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve in
gasolrne or other fluids; if a component is to be
washed or cleaned, use another method of identifica-
tion. A permanent felt-tipped marker or a metal scribe
can be very handy for marking metal parts. Remove
any tape or paper labels after assembly.
It’s necessary to mention the difference between
maintenance and repair Maintenance includes rou-
tine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of
parts which show signs of normal wear Maintenance
compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies
that something has broken or is not working. A need
for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. Ex-
ample, draining and refilling the automatic transaxle
fluid is maintenance recommended by the manufac-
turer at specific mileage intervals. Failure to do this
can shorten the life of the transmission/transaxle, re-
quiring very expensive repairs. While no maintenance
program can prevent items from breaking or wearing
out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS
CHEAPER THAN REPAIR.
Two basic mechanrc’s rules should be mentioned
here. First, whenever the left side of the vehicle or en-
gine is referred to, it is meant to specify the drivers
side. Conversely, the right side of the vehicle means
the passengers side. Second, screws and bolts are
removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened
by turning clockwrse unless specifically noted.
Safety is always the most important rule. Con-
stantly be aware of the dangers involved in working
on an automobile and take the proper precautions.
See the informatron in this section regarding SER-
VICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY and the SAFETY
NOTICE on the acknowledgment page.
Pay attention to the instructions provided. There
are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work:
1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or
adjustment. When taking something apart or putting
it together, performing steps in the wrong order usu-
ally just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break
something. Read the entire procedure before begin-
ning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in
which the instructions say you should, even if you
can’t immedrately see a reason for it. When you’re
taking apart something that is very intricate, you
might want to draw a picture of how it looks when as-
sembled at one point in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. We will supply
exploded views whenever possible. When making
adjustments, perform them in the proper order. One
adjustment possibly will affect another.
2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is
more common for overtorquing to cause damage,
undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose
causing serious damage. Especially when dealing
with aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifi-
cations and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a
torque figure is not available, remember that if you
are using the right tool to perform the job, you will
probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener
tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight
that the tension you put on the wrench will be multi-
plied many times in actual force on what you are
tightening. A good example of how critical torque is
can be seen in the case of spark plug installation, es-
pecially where you are putting the plug into an alu-
minum cylinder head. Too little torque can fail to
crush the gasket, causing leakage of combustion
gases and consequent overheating of the plug and
engine parts. Too much torque can damage the
threads or distort the plug, changing the spark gap.
There are many commercial products available for
ensuring that fasteners won’t come loose, even if they
are not torqued just right (a very common brand is
Loctite? If you’re worried
about getting something
together tight enough to hold, but loose enough to
avoid mechanical damage during assembly, one of
these products might offer substantial insurance. Be-
fore choosing a threadlocking compound, read the
label on the package and make sure the product is
compatible with the materials, fluids, etc. involved.
3. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such
as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong
angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to
occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubri-
cate fasteners, then to start threading the bolt, spark
plug, etc. with your fingers If you encounter resis-
tance, unscrew the part and start over again at a dif-
ferent angle until it can be inserted and turned several
times without much effort. Keep in mind that many
parts, especially spark plugs, have tapered threads,
so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part
you’re threading to the proper angle. Don’t put a
wrench on the part until its been tightened a couple
of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resis-
tance, and the part has not seated fully, don’t force it.
Pull it back out to make sure it’s clean and threading
properly.
Be sure to take your time and be patient, and al-
ways plan ahead. Allow yourself ample time to per-
form repairs and maintenance You may find main-
taining your car a satisfying and enjoyable
experience.
b See Figures 1 thru 15
Naturally, without the proper tools and equipment
it is impossible to properly service your vehicle. It
would also be virtually impossible
to catalog every
tool that you would need to perform all of the opera-
tions in this book. Of course, It would be unwise for
the amateur to rush out and buy an expensive set of
tools on the theory that he/she may need one or more
of them at some time, The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering savings will
be far outweighed by frustration and
a good quality set of those tools that are used most mangled knuckles.
frequently Don’t be misled by the low cost of bargain Begin accumulating those tools that are used most
tools. It is far better to spend a little more for better frequently: those associated with routine maintenance
quality. Forged wrenches, 6 or 12-point sockets and and tune-up. In addition to the normal assortment of
fine tooth ratchets are by far preferable to their less screwdrivers and pliers, you should have the follow-
expensive counterparts. As any good mechanic can ing tools:
tell you, there are few worse experiences than trying
l Wrenches/sockets and combination open
to work on a vehicle with bad tools. Your monetary end/box end wrenches in sizes from %-% in. or

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l-36 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Install the drain plug and tighten to 22 ft. Ibs.
(304Nm)
5. Refill the transaxle to the proper level, as
shown in the Capacities chart, with the appropriate
fluid. The oil level should be at the bottom of the oil
filler hole. I
6. When the oil reaches the orooer level, install
the filler plug and tighten to 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm).
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
8957i565 Fig, 165 Oil, when at the proper level, will
reach the lower edge of tC=+ frfr*r u*rn -non-
ing Mitsubishi recommends the use of Mercon@auto-
matic transmission fluid.
LEVELCHECK
Fig. 170 The fluid level is OK if it is within
the between the HOT and ADD areas on the
&&i& Do not overfill the transaxle or
-.*".."... -- .*"- problems could o ccur
1. Makesure the vehicle is oarked on a level sur-
face.
2. Remove the filler plug and make sure the oil
level is up to the lower edge of the filler plug hole.
3. Check to be sure that the transaxle oil is not
noticeably dirty and that it has a suitable viscosity. u See Figures 168,169, and 170
fluid is at normal operating temperature, drive the ve- The transaxle dipstick is located behind the air in-
hicle at least 10 miles. let hose, towards the firewall.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. The transaxle should be at normal operating
temperature when checking fluid level. To ensure the 5. Pull the dipstick from its tube again. Holding it
horizontally, road the fluid level. The fkrid should be
between the MIN and MAX mark. If the fluid is below
the MIN mark, add fluid through the dipstick tube.
DRAIN & REFILL
6. Insert the dipstick, and check the level again
after adding any fluid. Be careful not to overfill the
transaxle.
3. With the selector lever in P and the parking
DRAIN & REFILL u See Figures 166 and 167
1. Make sure the vehicle is parked on a level sur-
face.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Place a brake applied, start the engine.
4. Open the hood and locate the transaxle fluid
dipstick. Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it clean,
and reinsert it. Make sure the dipstick is fully in-
serted.
suitable drain pan under the manual transaxle.
3. Remove the filler plug and the drain plug and
allow the oil to drain completely.
Fig. 166 The automatic transaxle dipstick is
typically located under the air cleaner inlet
Fig. 166 Use a box-end wrench to loosen
the manual transaxle drain plug . . . tube. Pull the dipstick up to remove it from
the transaxle
Fig. 169 Wipe the dipstick clean and Insert
/fluid level reading ., it mto the transaxle agam to get the correct
j The fluid should be changed according to the
schedule in the Maintenance Intervals chart. If the car
is normally used in severe service, such as stop and
start driving, trailer towing, or the like, the interval
should be halved. If the car is driven under especially
nasty conditions, such as in heavy city traffic where
the temperature normally reaches 90°F (32%), or in
very hilly or mountainous areas, or in police, taxi, or b See Figures 171 thru 177
1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Place a suitable drain pan under the transaxle
drain plug.
3. Remove the transaxle pan drain plug. Let the
fluid completely drain out of the transaxle.
4. Install the drain plug and tighten it to 22-25 ft.
lbs. (30-35 Nm).
5. If equipped, remove the drain plug on the dif-
ferential of the transaxle.
6. Install the differential drain plug and tighten ft
to 22-25 ft. Ibs. (30-35 Nm).
7. Remove the drain pan.
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. Fill the transaxle through the dipstick to the
proper level.
10. Place the gear selector lever in P and start the
engine. Run the engine at idle, engage the emergency
brake and hold the brake pedal down. Move the gear
selector lever through all transaxle ranges for approx-
imately 5 minutes.
11. Return the selector lever to P and leave the
engine running at idle.
12. Check the transaxle fluid level. The fluid level
at normal operating temperature should read within
the crosshatched area of the fluid level dipstick.
13. If the fluid level reads below the crosshatched
area, adjust the level by adding fluid in small incre-
ments until the correct fluid level is obtained.
PAN &FILTER SERVICE
b See Figures 178 thru 184

1-42 GENERAL~INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 206 The fluid level should be between
llow,be*“retoch~ckiebrake~ . the MAX and MIN hnes if the fhud level IS
93151p31 Fig. 209 If the master cylinder capgasket
is swelled like such, it can be a sign of con-
tamination. If the gasket is swelled . . . Fig. 207 Wipe the master cylinder reservoir
clean before opening the cap to ensure that
no contamination enters the brake fluid
Fig. 210 . . .
make sure to push the gasket
back to the normal position
93151p29 I Fig. 208 Unscrew the master cylinder cap
and remove it from the reservoir
Fig. 211 Carefully pour approved brake fluid
from a fresh, sealed container directly into
the reservoir
2. Inspect the fluid in the reservoir, making sure
fluid is between the MAX and the MIN marks.
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
When adding or changing the fluid in the systems,
use a quality brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 speci-
fications from an sealed container. Never reuse old
brake fluid.
LEVEL CHECK
b See Figures 212, 213, and 214
1. Wipe the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap
and the surrounding area clean with a shop towel. 3. If required, remove the clut ch master cylinder
reservoir lid. then add fresh fluid I FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
mark on the’reservoir. to fill to the top full
When adding or changing the power steering
fll$,“” Dexron@il ATF (Automatic Transmission
-
- .
Be careful to avoid sf Billing any brake fluid on LEVELCHECK
painted surfaces, bet
:ause the paint coat will
become discolored or damaged.
b See Figures 215, 216, 217, and 218
4. Reinstall the lid onto the clutch master cylin- Like all other general maintenance items, check
der. every 3,OOfl miles (4,800 km) or once a month. In-
5. If removed, install the air cleaner assembly. spect the oil level in the reservoir by checking the po-
Fig. 212 The clutch master cylinder has
MAX (A) and MIN (B) fill lines on the reser
volr

7-10 DRIVETRAIN
The automatic transaxle allows engine torque and
power to be transmitted to the front wheels within a
narrow range of engine operating speeds. It will allow
the engine to turn fast enough to produce plenty of
power and torque at very low speeds, while keeping it
at a sensible rpm at high vehicle speeds (and it does
this job without driver assistance). The transaxle uses
a light fluid as the medium for the transmission of
power. This fluid also works in ths operation of vari-
ous hydraulic control circuits and as a lubricant. Be-
cause the transaxle fluid performs all of these func-
tions, trouble within the unit can easily travel from one
part to another For this reason, and because of the
complexity and unusual operating principles of the
transaxle, a very sound understanding of the basic
principles of operation will simplify troubleshooting
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
Pan removal, fluid and filter
in Section 1 of this manual changes are covered
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1990-97 Mirage and 1990-93 Galant
# See Figure 44
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the selector cable from the lever
3. Remove the two retaining screws and lift off
the switch.
To install: 4. Mount and position new switch. Do not tighten
the bolts until the switch is adjusted.
5. Connect selector cable and adjust switch.
6. After installation and adjustment make sure the
engine only starts in the
P and N selections. Also check
that the reverse lights operate only in the R selectlon.
1994-00 Galant and 1998-00 Mirage
e See Figure 44
93157pm Fig. 44 Typically, the park/neutral position
switch is located on the top of the transaxle
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the nut attaching the shift control ca-
ble from the transaxle manual shaft lever. Position
the control cable out of the way.
3. Place the manual shaft lever in the Neutral
position, remove the nut and the manual shaft lever.
4. Detach the park/neutral switch electrical con-
nector.
5. Remove the park/neutral switch mounting
bolts and remove the switch from the transaxle man-
ual shaft.
To install: 6. Install the park/neutral switch to the transaxle
manual shaft and install the switch mounting bolts
Do not tighten the mounting bolts unh the switch is
adjusted.
7. Install the manual shaft lever to the park/neu-
tral switch with the nut. Make sure that the shaft lever
is in the Neutral position.
8. Adjust the switch in the following manner:
turn the switch body until the hole in the body of the
switch aligns with the hole in the manual shaft lever.
Insert a drill bit or equivalent into the holes. Tighten
the switch mounting bolts to 8 ft. Ibs. (11 Nm).
9. Attach the electrical connector.
10. Install the control cable to the manual shaft
lever with the nut. Adjust the cable so that there is no
slack in the cable and that the selector lever moves
smoothly
11. Reconnect the negative battery cable Check
for proper starting and proper reverse light operatron.
Diamante
ti See Figure 44
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Wait at least 90 seconds after the negative
battery cable is disconnected to prevent pos-
sible deployment of the air bag.
2. Disconnect the selector cable from the lever.
3. Remove the two retaining screws and lift off
the switch.
To install: 4. Install the lever, tighten the bolts only hand
tight.
5. Rotate switch body so the manual control lever
0.20 inch (5mm) hole and the switch body 0.20 inch
(5mm) holes are aligned.
6. Tighten the mounting bolts to 7-8 ft. Ibs.
(10-12 Nm).
7. Connect the selector cable to the lever.
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. After installahon and adjustment make sure the
engine only starts in the
P and N selections. Also
check that the reverse lights operate only in the R se- lection.
ADJUSTMENT
1990-97 Mirage and 1990-93 Galant
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and lo-
cate the neutral safety switch on the top of the
transaxle.
*Apply parking brake and chock wheels be-
fore placing transaxle into the N position
2. At the transmission, loosen the shift cable ad-
justment nut. Inside the vehicle place the gearshift
selector lever in N
3. Place the manual shift control lever in N.
4. Loosen neutral safety switch mounhng screws
and rotate switch body so the manual control lever
0.20 in. (5mm) hole and the switch body 0.20 in.
(5mm) holes are aligned.
5. Tighten switch body mounting bolts to 7-8 ft.
Ibs. (lo-12 Nm).
6. At the shift cable adjusting nut, gently pull ca-
ble to remove any slack. Tighten locknut to 8 ft. Ibs.
(12 Nm)
7. Verify that the switch lever moves to positions
corresponding to each position of the selector lever.
Connect the negative battery terminal.
8. Make sure the engine only starts in the
P and
N positions. Also make sure the reverse lights oper-
ate only in
R selection.
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
Diamante
) See Figures 45, 46, 47, and 48
1. Properly disarm the SRS system (air bag).
Refer to Section 6.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. Remove the engine side cover and undercov-
ers.
5. Drain the transaxle assembly into a suitable
container.
6. If equipped, remove the front catalytic con-
verter.
7. Remove the exhaust pipe, main muffler and
catalytic converter.
8. Disconnect the tie rod end and ball joint from
the steering knuckle.
9. Unbolt the support bearing for the left side
halfshaft.
10. Remove the halfshafts by inserting a prybar
between the transaxle case and the driveshaft and
prying the shaft from the transaxle.
11. Remove the air cleaner assembly and adjoin-
ing duct work.
12. Detach the engine harness connection.
13. If the vehicle is equipped with Active Elec-
tronlc Controlled Suspension (Active-ECS), remove
the compressor assembly from the transaxle and sus-
pend with wire. Do not allow the compressor to hang
from the air hose.
14. If equipped, remove the roll stopper stay
bracket.
15. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the
transaxle.
16. Remove the clip that secures the shifter and
disconnect the shifter control cable from the
transaxle.
17. Disconnect and plug the oil cooler hoses
from the transaxle.
18. Detach the following:

.
7-12 DRIVETRAIN
26-33Nm
19 - 24 itlbs.
45 - 52 Nm
69 Nm
51 ftlbs.

66 Nm
65 ftlbs.
52 Nm
36 fl.lbs.
:ig.
the prybar. Do not insert the prybar so far the oil seal
in the case is damaged. Tie the halfshafts aside.
14. On AWD vehicles, disconnect the exhaust
pipe and remove the transfer case.
15. Remove the lower bellhousing cover and re-
move the special bolts holding the flexplate to the
torque converter. To remove, turn the engine crank-
shaft with a box wrench and bring the bolts into a po-
sition appropriate for removal, one at a time. After re-
moving the bolts, push the torque converter toward
the transaxle so it doesn’t stay on the engine allowing
oil to pour out the converter hub or cause damage to
the converter,
16. Remove the lower transaxle to engine bolts
and remove the transaxle assembly. To install: 17. After the torque converter has been mounted
on the transaxle, install the transaxle assembly on the
engine. Tighten the driveplate bolts to 34-38 ft. Ibs.
(4653 Nm). Tighten the transaxle-to-engine bolts to
35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm). Install the bellhousing cover.
18. On AWD vehicles, install the transfer case
and frame pieces. Connect the exhaust pipe using a
new gasket.
19. Replace the circlips and install the halfshafts
to the transaxle.
20. Install the tie rods and ball joint to the steer-
ing arm.
21. Install the transaxle mounting bracket.
22. install the under guard.
23. Install the starter.
24. Connect the speedometer cable and oil cooler
lines.
25 Connect the solenoid, neutral safety switch
(inhibitor switch), the pulse generator kickdown
servo switch and oil temperature sensor.
26. Install the shift control cable.
27. Install the air hose, intercooler and air cleaner
assembly.
If equipped with an active ECS, connect the
mante with a F4A33 automatic transaxle
30 Refill with Dexron II, Mopar ATF Plus type
7176, Mitsubishi Plus ATF or equivalent, automatic
transaxle fluid. If vehicle is AWD check and fill the
transfer case.
31. Start the engine and allow to idle for 2 min-
utes. Apply parkrng brake and move selector through
each gear posrtion, ending in N. Recheck fluid level
and add if necessary. Fluid level should be between
the marks in the HOT range.
1994-90 MODELS
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner and intake hoses.
3. Drain the transaxle into a suitable waste con-
tainer.
4. Remove the nut securing the shifter lever to
the transaxle. Remove the cable retaining clip and re-
move the cable from the transaxle.
5. Remove the shifter cable mounting bracket,
6. Tag and detach the electrical connectors for
the speedometer, solenoid, neutral safety switch (in-
hibitor switch), the pulse generator, kickdown servo
switch, and the oil temperature sensor.
7. Tag and disconnect the oil cooler lines at the
transaxle.
8. Remove the bolt securing the fluid dipstick
tube to the transaxle. Remove the dipstrck and tube
from the transaxle.
9. Remove the starter motor and position it
aside.
10. Using special tool MZ203827 or equivalent,
support the engine assembly.
11. Remove the rear roll stopper mounting
bracket.
12. Remove the transaxle mount bracket.
13. Remove the upper transaxle mounting bolts.
14. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
15. Remove the front wheel assemblies.
16. Remove the right hand undercover.
17. Remove and discard the cotter pin, then dis-
connect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle,
18. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the
damper fork.
19. Disconnect the damper fork from the lateral
lower control arm.
20. Disconnect the lateral lower arm, and the
compression arm lower ball joints from the steering
knuckle.
21. Pry the halfshafts from the transaxle, and se-
cure aside.
22. Remove the cover from the transaxle bell-
housing.
23. Remove the engine front roll stopper
through-bolt.
24. Remove the crossmember and the triangular
right hand stay.
25. Remove the bolts holding the flexplate to the
torque converter with a box wrench Rotate the engine
to bring the bolts into a position appropriate for re-
moval, one at a time. After removing the bolts, push
the torque converter toward the transaxle. This will
prevent the converter from remaining intact with the
engine, possibly damaging the converter,
26. Support the transaxle, using a transmission
jack, and remove the transaxle lower coupling bolt.
*The coupling bolt threads from the engine
side, into the transaxle, and is located just
above the halfshafl opening.

TROUBLESHOOiNG 11-7
4. Starter motor spins, but does not engage
a. Check the starter motor for a seized or binding pinion gear.
b. Remove the flywheel inspection plate and check for a damaged ring gear.
Gasoline Engines
1. Engine runs poor/y, hesiiates
a. Check the engine ignition system operation and adjust if possible, or replace defective
parts.
b. Check for restricted fuel injectors and replace as necessary.
c. Check the fuel pump output and delivery. Inspect fuel lines for restrictions. If the fuel
pump pressure is below specification, replace the fuel pump.
d. Check the operation of the engine management system and repair as necessary.
2. Enfline lacks power
a. Check the engine’s tune-up status. Note the tune-up specifications and check for items
such as severely worn spark plugs; adjust or replace as needed. On vehicles with
manually adjusted valve clearances, check for tight valves and adjust to specification.
b. Check the air filter and air intake system. Replace the air filter if it is dirty or contami-
nated. Check the fresh air intake system for restrictions or blockage.
c. Check the operation of the engine fuel and ignition management systems. Check the
sensor operation and wiring. Check for low fuel pump pressure and repair or replace
components as necessary.
d. Check the throttle linkage adjustments. Check to make sure the linkage is fully open-
ing the throttle. Replace any worn or defective bushings or linkages.
e. Check for a restricted exhaust system. Check for bent or crimped exhaust pipes, or in-
ternally restricted mufflers or catalytic converters. Compare inlet and outlet tempera-
tures for the converter or muffler. If the inlet is hot, but outlet cold, the component is
restricted.
f. Check for a loose or defective knock sensor. A loose, improperly torqued or defective
knock sensor will decrease spark advance and reduce power. Replace defective knock
sensors and install using the recommended torque specification.
g. Check for engine mechanical conditions such as low compression, worn piston rings,
worn valves, worn camshafts and related parts. An engine which has severe mechani-
cal wear, or has suffered internal mechanical damage must be rebuilt or replaced to re-
store lost power.
h. Check the engine oil level for being overfilled. Adjust the engine’s oil level, or change
the engine oil and filter, and top off to the correct level.
i. Check for an intake manifold or vacuum hose leak. Replace leaking gaskets or worn
vacuum hoses.
j. Check for dragging brakes and replace or repair as necessary.
k. Check tire air pressure and tire wear. Adjust the pressure to the recommended set-
tings. Check the tire wear for possible alignment problems causing increased rolling
resistance, decreased acceleration and increased fuel usage.
I. Check the octane rating of the fuel used during refilling, and use a higher octane rated
fuel.
3. Poor fuel economy
a. Inspect the air filter and check for any air restrictions going into the air filter housing.
Replace the air filter if it is dirty or contaminated.
b. Check the engine for tune-up and related adjustments. Replace worn ignition parts,
check the engine ignition timing and fuel mixture, and set to specifications if possible.
c. Check the tire size, tire wear, alignment and tire pressure. Large tires create more
rolling resistance, smaller tires require more engine speed to maintain a vehicle’s road
speed. Excessive tire wear can be caused by incorrect tire pressure, incorrect wheel
alignment or a suspension problem. All of these conditions create increased rolling
resistance, causing the engine to work harder to accelerate and maintain a vehicle’s
speed.
d. Inspect the brakes for binding or excessive drag. A sticking brake caliper, overly ad-
justed brake shoe, broken brake shoe return spring, or binding parking brake cable or
linkage can create a significant drag, brake wear and loss of fuel economy. Check the
brake system operation and repair as necessary.
4. Engine runs on (diesels) when turned off
a. Check for idle speed set too high and readjust to specification.
b. Check the operation of the idle control valve, and replace if defective.
c. Check the ignition timing and adjust to recommended settings.
Check for defective
sensors or related components and replace if defective.
d. Check for a vacuum leak at the intake manifold or vacuum hose
and replace defective
gaskets or hoses.
e. Check the engine for excessive carbon build-up in the combustion chamber. Use a
recommended decarbonizing fuel additive or disassemble the cylinder head to remove
the carbon.
f. Check the operation of the engine fuel management system and replace defective sen-
sors or control units.
g. Check the engine operating temperature for overheating and repair as necessary. 5. Engine knocks and pinfls during heavy accele/ation, and on steep hills
a. Check the octane rating of the fuel used during refilling, and use a higher octane rated
fuel.
b. Check the ignition timing and adjust to recommended settings. Check for defective
sensors or related components and replace if defective.
c. Check the engine for excessive carbon build-up in the combustion chamber. Use a
recommended decarbonizing fuel additive or disassemble the cylinder head to remove
the carbon.
d. Check the spark plugs for the correct type, electrode gap and heat range. Replace worn
or damaged spark plugs. For severe or continuous high speed use, install a spark plug
that is one heat range colder.
e. Check the operation of the engine fuel management system and replace defective sen-
sors or control units.
f. Check for a restricted exhaust system. Check for bent or crimped exhaust pipes, or in-
ternally restricted mufflers or catalytic converters. Compare inlet and outlet tempera-
tures for the converter or muffler. If the inlet is hot, but outlet cold, the component is
restricted.
6. Engine atxelerates, but vehicle does not gain speed
a. On manual transmission vehicles, check for causes of a slipping clutch. Refer to the
clutch troubleshooting section for additional information.
b. On automatic transmission vehicles, check for a slipping transmission” Check the
transmission fluid level and condition. If the fluid level is too high, adjust to the cor-
rect level. If the fluid level is low, top off using the recommended fluid type. If the fluid
exhibits a burning odor, the transmission has been slipping internally. Changing the
fluid and filter may help temporarily, however in this situation a transmission may re-
quire overhauling to ensure long-term reliability.
Diesel Engines
1. Engine runs pOOr!y a. Check the injection pump timing and adjust to specification.
b. Check for air in the fuel lines or leaks, and bleed the air from the fuel system.
c. Check the fuel filter, fuel feed and return lines for a restriction and repair as necessary.
d. Check the fuel for contamination, drain and flush the fuel tank and replenish with fresh
fuel.
2. Enfline lacks power
a. Inspect the air intake system and air filter for restrictions and, if necessary, replace the
air filter.
b. Verify the injection pump timing and reset if out of specification.
c. Check the exhaust for an internal restriction and replace failed parts.
d. Check for a restricted fuel filter and, if restricted, replace the filter.
e. Inspect the fuel filler cap vent. When removing the filler cap, listen for excessive hiss-
ing noises indicating a blockage in the fuel filler cap vents, If the filler cap vents are
blocked, replace the cap.
f. Check the fuel system for restrictions and repair as necessary.
g. Check for low engine compression and inspect for external leakage at the glow plugs
or nozzles. If no external leakage is noted, repair or replace the engine.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS When troubleshooting an engine running or performance condition, the mechanical
condition of the engine should be determined before lengthy troubleshooting procedures
are performed.
The engine fuel management systems in fuel injected vehicles rely on electronic sen-
sors to provide information to the engine control unit for precise fuel metering. Unlike
carburetors, which use the incoming air speed to draw fuel through the fuel metering jets
in order to provide a proper fuel-to-air ratio, a fuel injection system provides a specific
amount of fuel which is introduced by the fuel injectors into the intake manifold or intake
port, based on the information provided by electronic sensors.
The sensors monitor the engine’s operating temperature, ambient temperature and the
amount of air entering the engine, engine speed and throttle position to provide informa-
tion to the engine control unit, which, in turn, operates the fuel injectors by electrical
pulses. The sensors provide information to the engine control unit using low voltage
electrical signals. As a result, an unplugged sensor or a poor electrical contact could
cause a poor running condition similar to a failed sensor.
When troubleshooting a fuel related engine condition on fuel injected vehicles, care-
fully inspect the wiring and electrical connectors to the related components. Make sure
the electrical connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If neces-
sary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of cleaning
agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts should not be used, as they could
leave a surface film or damage the insulation of the wiring.
The engine electrical system provides the necessary electrical power to operate the ve-
hicle’s electrical accessories, electronic control units and sensors. Because engine man-
agement systems are sensitive to voltage changes, an alternator which over or under-
charges could cause engine running problems or component failure. Most alternators
utilize internal voltage regulators which cannot be adjusted and must be replaced indi-
vidually or as a unit with the alternator.

TROUBLESHOOTING 11-9
c. On vehicles with electrically controlled cooling fans, check the cooling fan operation.
Check for blown fuses or defective fan motors, temperature sensors and relays, and
replace failed components.
d. Check for a coolant leak caused by a failed head gasket, or a porous water jacket cast-
ing in the cylinder head or engine block. Replace defective parts as necessary.
e. Check for an internally restricted radiator. Flush the radiator or replace if the blockage
is too severe for flushing.
f. Check for a damaged water pump. If coolant circulation is poor, check for a loose wa-
ter pump impeller. If the impeller is loose, replace the water pump.
2. Engine loses coolant
a. Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap for leaks. Check for seepage caused
by loose hose clamps, failed coolant hoses, and cooling system components such as
the heater control valve, heater core, radiator, radiator cap, and water pump. Replace
defective parts and fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant mixture.
b. Check for a coolant leak caused by a failed head gasket, or a porous water jacket cast-
ing in the cylinder head or engine block. Replace defective parts as necessary.
3. Engine temperature remains co/d when driving
a. Check the thermostat operation. Replace the thermostat if it sticks in the open posi-
tion.
b. On vehicles with electrically controlled cooling fans, check the cooling fan operation.
Check for defective temperature sensors and stuck relays, and replace failed compo-
nents.
c. Check temperature gauge operation if equipped to verify proper operation of the
gauge. Check the sensors and wiring for defects, and repair or replace defective com-
ponents.
4. Engine runs hot
a. Check for an internally restricted radiator. Flush the radiator or replace if the blockage
is too severe for flushing.
b. Check for a loose or slipping water pump drive belt. Inspect the drive belt condition.
Replace the belt if brittle, cracked or damaged. Check the pulley condition and prop-
erly tension the belt.
c. Check the cooling fan operation. Replace defective fan motors, sensors or relays as
necessary.
d. Check temperature gauge operation if equipped to verify proper operation of the
gauge. Check the sensors and wiring for defects, and repair or replace defective com-
ponents.
e. Check the coolant level. Set the heater temperature to full hot, check for internal air
pockets, bleed the cooling system and inspect for leakage. Top off the cooling system
with the correct coolant mixture. Once the engine is cool, recheck the fluid level and
top off as needed.
NOTE: The engine cooling system can also be affected by an engine’s me-
chanical condition. A failed head gasket or a porous casting in the engine
block or cylinder head could cause a loss of coolant and result in engine
overheating.
Some cooling systems rely on electrically driven cooling fans to cool the radiator and
use electrical temperature sensors and relays to operate the cooling fan. When diagnos-
ing these systems, check for blown fuses, damaged wires and verify that the electrical
connections are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If necessary, clean
the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of cleaning igents not specifically designed for electrical contacts could leave a film or damage the insulation of
the wiring.
1. Exhaust rattles at idle speed
a. Check the engine and transmission mounts and replace mounts showing signs of
damage or wear.
b. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
c. Check for internal damage to mufflers and catalytic converters. The broken pieces from
the defective component may travel in the direction of the exhaust flow and collect
and/or create a blockage in a component other than the one which failed, causing en-
gine running and stalling problems. Another symptom of a restricted exhaust is low
engine manifold vacuum. Remove the exhaust system and carefully remove any loose
or broken pieces, then replace any failed or damaged parts as necessary.
d. Check the exhaust system clearance, routing and alignment. If the exhaust is making
contact with the vehicle in any manner, loosen and reposition the exhaust system.
2. Exhaust system vibrates when driving
a. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
b. Check the exhaust system clearance, routing and alignment. If the exhaust is making
contact with the vehicle in any manner, check for bent or damaged components and
replace, then loosen and reposition the exhaust system.
c. Check for internal damage to mufflers and catalytic converters. The broken pieces from
the defective component may travel in the direction of the exhaust flow and collect
and/or create a blockage in a component other than the one which failed, causing en-
gine running and stalling problems. Another symptom of a restricted exhaust is low
engine manifold vacuum. Remove the exhaust system and carefully remove any loose
or broken pieces, then replace any failed or damaged parts as necessary.
3. Exhaust system hangs too low
a. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
b. Check the exhaust routing and alignment. Check and replace bent or damaged com-
ponents. If the exhaust is not routed properly, loosen and reposition the exhaust sys-
tern.
4. Exhaust sounds loud
a. Check the system for looseness and leaks. Check the exhaust pipes, clamps, flange
bolts and manifold fasteners for tightness. Check and replace any failed gaskets.
b. Check and replace exhaust silencers that have a loss of efficiency due to internally
broken baffles or worn packing material.
c. Check for missing mufflers and silencers that have been replaced with straight pipes
or with non-original equipment silencers.
NOTE: Exhaust system rattles, vibration and proper alignment should not
be overlooked. Excessive vibration caused by collapsed engine mounts,
damaged or missing exhaust hangers and misalignment may cause surface
cracks and broken welds, creating exhaust leaks or internal damage to ex-
haust components such as the catalytic converter, creating a restriction to
exhaust flow and loss of power.
1. Transmission shit& erratically
a. Check and if not within the recommended range, add or remove transmission fluid to
obtain the correct fluid level. Always use the recommended fluid type when adding
transmission fluid.
b. Check the fluid level condition. If the fluid has become contaminated, fatigued from
excessive heat or exhibits a burning odor, change the transmission fluid and filter us-
ing the recommended type and amount of fluid. A fluid which exhibits a burning odor
indicates that the transmission has been slipping internally and may require future re-
pairs.
c. Check for an improperly installed transmission filter, or missing filter gasket, and re-
pair as necessary.
d. Check for loose or leaking gaskets, pressure lines and fittings, and repair or replace as
necessary.
e. Check for loose or disconnected shift and throttle linkages or vacuum hoses, and re-
pair as necessary. ,
2. Transmission will not engage
a. Check the shift linkage for looseness, wear and proper adjustment, and repair as nec-
essary. b. Check for a loss of transmission fluid and top off as needed with the recommended
fluid.
c. If the transmission does not engage with the shift linkage correctly installed and the
proper fluid level, internal damage has likely occurred, requiring transmission removal
and disassembly.
3. Transmission will not downshift during heavy acceleration
a. On computer controlled transmissions, check for failed sensors or control units and
repair or replace defective components.
b. On vehicles with kickdown linkages or vacuum servos, check for proper linkage ad-
justment or leaking vacuum hoses or servo units.
NOTE: Mlany automatic transmissions use an electronic control module,
electrical sensors and solenoids to control transmission shifting. When
troubleshooting a vehicle with this type of system, be sure the electrical
connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If nec-
essary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The
use of cleaning agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts
could leave a film or damage the insulation of the wiring.

II-10 TROUBLESHOOTING
1. Transmission grinds going into forward gears while driving
a. Check the clutch release system. On clutches with a mechanical or cable linkage,
check the adjustment. Adjust the clutch pedal to have 1 inch (25mm) of free-play at
the pedal.
b. If the clutch release system is hydraulically operated, check the fluid level and, if low,
top off using the recommended type and amount of fluid. ,
c. Synchronizers worn. Remove transmission and replace synchronizers.
d. Synchronizer sliding sleeve worn. Remove transmission and replace sliding sleeve.
e. Gear engagement dogs worn or damaged. Remove transmission and replace gear.
2. Transmission jumps out of gear
a. Shift shaft detent springs worn. Replace shift detent springs.
b. Synchronizer sliding sleeve worn. Remove transmission and replace sliding sleeve.
c. Gear engagement dogs worn or damaged. Remove transmission and replace gear.
d. Crankshaft thrust bearings worn. Remove engine and crankshaft, and repair as neces-
sary.
3. Transmission difficult to shift
a. Verify the clutch adjustment and, if not properly adjusted, adjust to specification.
b. Synchronizers worn. Remove transmission and replace synchronizers.
c. Pilot bearing seized. Remove transmission and replace pilot bearing.
d. Shift linkage or bushing seized. Disassemble the shift linkage, replace worn or dam-
aged bushings, lubricate and reinstall.
4. Transmission leaks fluid
a. Check the fluid level for an overfilled condition. Adjust the fluid level to specification.
b. Check for a restricted transmission vent or breather tube. Clear the blockage as neces-
sary and check the fluid level. If necessary, top off with the recommended lubricant.
c. Check for a porous casting, leaking seal or gasket. Replace defective parts and top off
the fluid level with the recommended lubricant.
1. Clutch slips on hills or during sudden acceleration
a. Check for insufficient clutch pedal free-play. Adjust clutch linkage or cable to allow
about 1 inch (25mm) of pedal free-play.
b. Clutch disc worn or severely damaged. Remove engine or transmission and replace
clutch disc.
c. Clutch pressure plate is weak. Remove engine or transmission and replace the clutch
pressure plate and clutch disc.
d. Clutch pressure plate and/or flywheel incorrectly machined. If the clutch system has
been recently replaced and rebuilt, or refurbished parts have been used, it is possible
that the machined surfaces decreased the clutch clamping force. Replace defective
parts with new replacement parts.
2. Clutch will not disengage, difficult to shift
a. Check the clutch release mechanism. Check for stretched cables, worn linkages or
failed clutch hydraulics and replace defective parts. On hydraulically operated clutch
release mechanisms, check for air in the hydraulic system and bleed as necessary.
b. Check for a broken, cracked or fatigued clutch release arm or release arm pivot. Re-
place defective parts and properly lubricate upon assembly.
c. Check for a damaged clutch hub damper or damper spring. The broken parts tend to
become lodged between the clutch disc and the pressure plate. Disassemble clutch
system and replace failed parts.
d. Check for a seized clutch pilot bearing. Disassemble the clutch assembly and replace
the defective parts.
e. Check for a defective clutch disc. Check for warpage or liningthicknesses larger than
original equipment.
3. Clutch is noisy when the clutch pedal is pressed
a. Check the clutch pedal stop and pedal free-play adjustment for excessive movement
and adjust as necessary.
b. Check for a worn or damaged release bearing. If the noise ceases when the pedal is re-
leased, the release bearing should be replaced.
c. Check the engine crankshaft axial play. If the crankshaft thrust bearings are worn or
damaged, the crankshaft will move when pressing the clutch pedal. The engine must
be disassembled to replace the crankshaft thrust bearings.
4. Clutch pedal extremely difficult to press
a. Check the clutch pedal pivots and linkages for binding. Clean and lubricate linkages.
b. On cable actuated clutch systems, check the cable routing and condition. Replace
kinked, frayed, damaged or corroded cables and check cable routing to avoid sharp
bends. Check the engine ground strap for poor conductivity. If the ground strap is
marginal, the engine could try to ground itself via the clutch cable, causing premature
failure. c. On mechanical linkage clutches, check the linkage for binding or misalignment. Lubri-
cate pivots or linkages and repair as necessary.
d. Check the release bearing guide tube and release fork for a lack of lubrication. Install a
smooth coating of high temperature grease to allow smooth movement of the release
bearing over the guide tube.
5. Clutch pedal remains down when pressed
a, On mechanical linkage or cable actuated clutches, check for a loose or disconnected
link.
b. On hydraulically actuated clutches, check the fluid level and check for a hydraulic leak
at the clutch slave or master cylinder, or hydraulic line. Replace failed parts and bleed
clutch hydraulic system. If no leakage is noted, the clutch master cylinder may have
failed internally. Replace the clutch master cylinder and bleed the clutch hydraulic sys-
tem.
6. clutch chatters when engaging
a. Check the engine flywheel for warpage or surface variations and replace or repair as
necessary.
b. Check for a warped clutch disc or damaged clutch damper hub. Remove the clutch
disc and replace.
c. Check for a loose or damaged clutch pressure plate and replace defective components.
NOTE: The clutch is actuated either by a mechanical linkage, cable or a
clutch hydraulic system. The mechanical linkage and cable systems may
require the clutch pedal free-play to be adjusted as the clutch disc wears. A
hydraulic clutch system automatically adjusts as the clutch wears and, with
the exception of the clutch pedal height, no adjustment is possible.
1. Differential makes a low pitched rumbling noise
a. Check fluid level type and amount. Replace the fluid with the recommended type and
amount of lubricant.
b. Check the differential bearings for wear or damage. Remove the bearings, inspect the
drive and driven gears for wear or damage, and replace components as necessary.
2. Differential makes a howling noise
a. Check fluid level type and amount. Replace the fluid with the recommended type and
amount of lubricant.
b. Check the differential drive and driven gears for wear or damage, and replace compo-
nents as necessary.
All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles
1. Leaks fluid from seals or vent after being driven
a. Fluid level overfilled. Check and adjust transfer case fluid level.
b. Check for a restricted breather or breather tube, clear and check the fluid level and top
off as needed.
c. Check seal condition and replace worn, damaged, or defective seals. Check the fluid
level and top off as necessary.
2. Makes excessive noise while driving
a. Check the fluid for the correct type of lubricant. Drain and refill using the recom-
mended type and amount of lubricant.
b. Check the fluid level. Top off the fluid using the recommended type and amount of lu-
bricant.
c. If the fluid level and type of lubricant meet specifications, check for internal wear or
damage. Remove assembly and disassemble to inspect for worn, damaged, or defec-
tive components.
3. Jumps out of gear
a. Stop vehicle and make sure the unit is fully engaged.
b. Check for worn, loose or an improperly adjusted linkage. Replace and/or adjust link-
age as necessary.
c. Check for internal wear or damage. Remove assembly and disassemble to inspect for
worn, damaged, or defective components.
Rear Wheel, All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles
1. Clunking noise from center of Vehicle shifting from forward to reverse
a. Worn universal joint. Remove driveshaft and replace universal joint.
2. Excessive vibration from center of vehicle when accelerating
a. Worn universal joint. Remove driveshaft and replace universal joint.