1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE stop start

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1-2 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Chitton’s Total Car Care manual for the 199M10
Mitsubishi Mirage, Galant and Diamante is intended
to help you learn more about the inner workings of
your vehicle while saving you money on its upkeep
and operation.
The beginning of the book will likely be referred to
the most, since that is where you will find information
for maintenance and tune-up. The other sections deal
with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Oper-
ating systems from engine through brakes are cov-
ered to the extent that the average do-it-yourselfer be-
comes mechanically involved. This book will not
explain such things as rebuilding a differential for the
simple reason that the expertise required and the in-
vestment in special tools make this task uneconomi-
cal. It will, however, give you detailed instructions to
help you change your own brake pads and shoes, re-
place spark plugs, and perform many more jobs that
can save you money, give you personal satisfaction
and help you avoid expensive problems.
A secondary purpose of this book is a reference for
owners who want to understand their vehicle and/or
their mechanics better. In this case, no tools at all are
required.
Before removing any bolts, read through the entire
procedure. This will give you the overall view of what
tools and supplies will be required. There is nothing
more frustrating than having to walk to the bus stop
on Monday morning because you were short one bolt
on Sunday afternoon. So read ahead and plan ahead.
Each operation should be approached logically and
all procedures thoroughly understood before attempt-
ing any work.
All sections contain adjustments, maintenance, re-
moval and installation procedures, and in some cases,
repair or overhaul procedures. When repair is not con-
sidered practical, we tell you how to remove the part
and then how to install the new or rebuilt replacement.
In this way, you at least save labor costs. “Backyard”
repair of some components is just not practical.
Many procedures in this book require you to “label
and disconnect. . ” a group of lines, hoses or wires.
Don’t be lulled into thinking you can remember where
everything goes-you won’t. If you hook up vacuum
or fuel lines incorrectly, the vehicle may run poorly, if
at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you
may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.
You don’t need to know the official or engineering
name for each hose or line. A piece of masking tape
on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to
assign your own label such as the letter A or a short name. As long as you remember your own code, the
lines can be reconnected by matching similar letters
or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve in
gasolrne or other fluids; if a component is to be
washed or cleaned, use another method of identifica-
tion. A permanent felt-tipped marker or a metal scribe
can be very handy for marking metal parts. Remove
any tape or paper labels after assembly.
It’s necessary to mention the difference between
maintenance and repair Maintenance includes rou-
tine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of
parts which show signs of normal wear Maintenance
compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies
that something has broken or is not working. A need
for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. Ex-
ample, draining and refilling the automatic transaxle
fluid is maintenance recommended by the manufac-
turer at specific mileage intervals. Failure to do this
can shorten the life of the transmission/transaxle, re-
quiring very expensive repairs. While no maintenance
program can prevent items from breaking or wearing
out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS
CHEAPER THAN REPAIR.
Two basic mechanrc’s rules should be mentioned
here. First, whenever the left side of the vehicle or en-
gine is referred to, it is meant to specify the drivers
side. Conversely, the right side of the vehicle means
the passengers side. Second, screws and bolts are
removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened
by turning clockwrse unless specifically noted.
Safety is always the most important rule. Con-
stantly be aware of the dangers involved in working
on an automobile and take the proper precautions.
See the informatron in this section regarding SER-
VICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY and the SAFETY
NOTICE on the acknowledgment page.
Pay attention to the instructions provided. There
are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work:
1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or
adjustment. When taking something apart or putting
it together, performing steps in the wrong order usu-
ally just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break
something. Read the entire procedure before begin-
ning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in
which the instructions say you should, even if you
can’t immedrately see a reason for it. When you’re
taking apart something that is very intricate, you
might want to draw a picture of how it looks when as-
sembled at one point in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. We will supply
exploded views whenever possible. When making
adjustments, perform them in the proper order. One
adjustment possibly will affect another.
2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is
more common for overtorquing to cause damage,
undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose
causing serious damage. Especially when dealing
with aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifi-
cations and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a
torque figure is not available, remember that if you
are using the right tool to perform the job, you will
probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener
tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight
that the tension you put on the wrench will be multi-
plied many times in actual force on what you are
tightening. A good example of how critical torque is
can be seen in the case of spark plug installation, es-
pecially where you are putting the plug into an alu-
minum cylinder head. Too little torque can fail to
crush the gasket, causing leakage of combustion
gases and consequent overheating of the plug and
engine parts. Too much torque can damage the
threads or distort the plug, changing the spark gap.
There are many commercial products available for
ensuring that fasteners won’t come loose, even if they
are not torqued just right (a very common brand is
Loctite? If you’re worried
about getting something
together tight enough to hold, but loose enough to
avoid mechanical damage during assembly, one of
these products might offer substantial insurance. Be-
fore choosing a threadlocking compound, read the
label on the package and make sure the product is
compatible with the materials, fluids, etc. involved.
3. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such
as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong
angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to
occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubri-
cate fasteners, then to start threading the bolt, spark
plug, etc. with your fingers If you encounter resis-
tance, unscrew the part and start over again at a dif-
ferent angle until it can be inserted and turned several
times without much effort. Keep in mind that many
parts, especially spark plugs, have tapered threads,
so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part
you’re threading to the proper angle. Don’t put a
wrench on the part until its been tightened a couple
of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resis-
tance, and the part has not seated fully, don’t force it.
Pull it back out to make sure it’s clean and threading
properly.
Be sure to take your time and be patient, and al-
ways plan ahead. Allow yourself ample time to per-
form repairs and maintenance You may find main-
taining your car a satisfying and enjoyable
experience.
b See Figures 1 thru 15
Naturally, without the proper tools and equipment
it is impossible to properly service your vehicle. It
would also be virtually impossible
to catalog every
tool that you would need to perform all of the opera-
tions in this book. Of course, It would be unwise for
the amateur to rush out and buy an expensive set of
tools on the theory that he/she may need one or more
of them at some time, The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering savings will
be far outweighed by frustration and
a good quality set of those tools that are used most mangled knuckles.
frequently Don’t be misled by the low cost of bargain Begin accumulating those tools that are used most
tools. It is far better to spend a little more for better frequently: those associated with routine maintenance
quality. Forged wrenches, 6 or 12-point sockets and and tune-up. In addition to the normal assortment of
fine tooth ratchets are by far preferable to their less screwdrivers and pliers, you should have the follow-
expensive counterparts. As any good mechanic can ing tools:
tell you, there are few worse experiences than trying
l Wrenches/sockets and combination open
to work on a vehicle with bad tools. Your monetary end/box end wrenches in sizes from %-% in. or

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l-30 GENERAL'INFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
n Pylon@ inserts, the clip
be removed prior to siidi then the insert can be re
After installing the replacement
strip and pull up while twisting counterclockwise.
The backing strip will snap out of the retaining tab.
Do this for the remaining tabs until the refill is free of
the blade. The length of these refills is molded into
the end and they should be replaced with identical
types. cate the front end is out of alignment or that the tires
are out of balance.
TIRE ROTATION
# See Figures 137 and 138
Tires must be rotated periodically to equalize wear
patterns that vary with a tire’s position on the vehicle.
Tires will also wear in an uneven way as the front
1 Fin 1% Tha Trinlarlna@
cle might have any kind. Aftermarket blades and arms
rarely use the exact same type blade or refill as the
original equipment. Here are some typiel aftermarket
blades; not all may be available for your vehicle:
The Anco@ type uses a release button that is
pushed down to allow the refill to slide out of the
yoke jaws. The new refill slides back into the frame
,
and locks in place.
Some Trico@ refills are removed by locating where
the metal backing strip or the refill is wider. Insert a
small screwdriver blade between the frame and metal
backing strip. Press down to release the refill from
the retaining tab.
Other types of Trico@’ refills have two metal tabs
which are unlocked by squeezing them together. The
rubber filler can then be withdrawn from the frame
iaws. A new refill is installed bv insertina the refill lowed to touch the olass steering/suspension system wears to the point where
the alianment should be reset.
# See Figure 138
Common sense and good driving habits will af-
ford maximum tire life. Fast starts, sudden stops
and hard cornering are hard on tires and will
shorten their useful life span. Make sure that you
don’t overload the vehicle or run with incorrect
pressure in the tires. Both of these practices will in-
crease tread wear.
*For optimum tire life, keep the fires prop
eriy inflated, rotate them often and have the
wheel alignment checked periodically.
Inspect your tires frequently. Be especially care-
ful to watch for bubbles in the tread or sidewall,
deep cuts or underinflation. Replace any tires with
bubbles in the sidewall. If cuts are so deep that they
penetrate to the cords, discard the tire. Any cut in
the sidewall of a radial tire renders it unsafe. Also
look for uneven tread wear patterns that may indi- Rotating the tires will ensure maximum life for the
tires as a set, so you will not have to discard a tire
early due to wear on only part of the tread. Regular
DIRECTIONAL TIRES DIRECTIONAL TIRES
jnto the front frame jaws and &ding it rearward to
engage the remaining frame jaws. There are usually
four jaws; be certain when installing that the refill is
engaged in all of them. At the end of its travel, the
tabs will lock into place on the front jaws of the wiper
blade frame.
Another type of refill is made from polycarbonate.
The refill has a simple locking device at one end
which flexes downward out of the groove into which
the jaws of the holder fit, allowing easy release. By
sliding the new refill through all the jaws and push-
ing through the slight resistance when it reaches the
end of its travel, the refill will lock into position.
To replace the Tridon@ refill, it is necessary to re-
move the wiper blade. This refill has a plastic backing
strip with a notch about 1 in. (25mm) from the end.
Hold the blade (frame) on a hard surface so that the
frame is tightly bowed. Grip the tip of the backing Fig. 138 A label with information concern-
ing the tires is typically located on one of
the door pillars
tion”

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l-36 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Install the drain plug and tighten to 22 ft. Ibs.
(304Nm)
5. Refill the transaxle to the proper level, as
shown in the Capacities chart, with the appropriate
fluid. The oil level should be at the bottom of the oil
filler hole. I
6. When the oil reaches the orooer level, install
the filler plug and tighten to 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm).
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
8957i565 Fig, 165 Oil, when at the proper level, will
reach the lower edge of tC=+ frfr*r u*rn -non-
ing Mitsubishi recommends the use of Mercon@auto-
matic transmission fluid.
LEVELCHECK
Fig. 170 The fluid level is OK if it is within
the between the HOT and ADD areas on the
&&i& Do not overfill the transaxle or
-.*".."... -- .*"- problems could o ccur
1. Makesure the vehicle is oarked on a level sur-
face.
2. Remove the filler plug and make sure the oil
level is up to the lower edge of the filler plug hole.
3. Check to be sure that the transaxle oil is not
noticeably dirty and that it has a suitable viscosity. u See Figures 168,169, and 170
fluid is at normal operating temperature, drive the ve- The transaxle dipstick is located behind the air in-
hicle at least 10 miles. let hose, towards the firewall.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. The transaxle should be at normal operating
temperature when checking fluid level. To ensure the 5. Pull the dipstick from its tube again. Holding it
horizontally, road the fluid level. The fkrid should be
between the MIN and MAX mark. If the fluid is below
the MIN mark, add fluid through the dipstick tube.
DRAIN & REFILL
6. Insert the dipstick, and check the level again
after adding any fluid. Be careful not to overfill the
transaxle.
3. With the selector lever in P and the parking
DRAIN & REFILL u See Figures 166 and 167
1. Make sure the vehicle is parked on a level sur-
face.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Place a brake applied, start the engine.
4. Open the hood and locate the transaxle fluid
dipstick. Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it clean,
and reinsert it. Make sure the dipstick is fully in-
serted.
suitable drain pan under the manual transaxle.
3. Remove the filler plug and the drain plug and
allow the oil to drain completely.
Fig. 166 The automatic transaxle dipstick is
typically located under the air cleaner inlet
Fig. 166 Use a box-end wrench to loosen
the manual transaxle drain plug . . . tube. Pull the dipstick up to remove it from
the transaxle
Fig. 169 Wipe the dipstick clean and Insert
/fluid level reading ., it mto the transaxle agam to get the correct
j The fluid should be changed according to the
schedule in the Maintenance Intervals chart. If the car
is normally used in severe service, such as stop and
start driving, trailer towing, or the like, the interval
should be halved. If the car is driven under especially
nasty conditions, such as in heavy city traffic where
the temperature normally reaches 90°F (32%), or in
very hilly or mountainous areas, or in police, taxi, or b See Figures 171 thru 177
1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Place a suitable drain pan under the transaxle
drain plug.
3. Remove the transaxle pan drain plug. Let the
fluid completely drain out of the transaxle.
4. Install the drain plug and tighten it to 22-25 ft.
lbs. (30-35 Nm).
5. If equipped, remove the drain plug on the dif-
ferential of the transaxle.
6. Install the differential drain plug and tighten ft
to 22-25 ft. Ibs. (30-35 Nm).
7. Remove the drain pan.
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. Fill the transaxle through the dipstick to the
proper level.
10. Place the gear selector lever in P and start the
engine. Run the engine at idle, engage the emergency
brake and hold the brake pedal down. Move the gear
selector lever through all transaxle ranges for approx-
imately 5 minutes.
11. Return the selector lever to P and leave the
engine running at idle.
12. Check the transaxle fluid level. The fluid level
at normal operating temperature should read within
the crosshatched area of the fluid level dipstick.
13. If the fluid level reads below the crosshatched
area, adjust the level by adding fluid in small incre-
ments until the correct fluid level is obtained.
PAN &FILTER SERVICE
b See Figures 178 thru 184

l-40 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
aiffiip98 Fig. 194 Pump the cooling system with pres-
sure, making sure not to overpressurize the
1 system or damage can occur
1. Remove the radiator or recovery tank cap.
2. Using the proper adapter, insert it onto the
opening and connect the pressure tester,
3. Begin pressurizing the system by pumping the
pressure tester and watching the gauge, when the
maximum pressure is reached, stop.
4. Watch the gauge carefully and see if the pres-
sure on the gauge drops, if it does, a leak is definitely
present.
5. If the pressure stayed somewhat stable, visu-
ally inspect the system for leaks, If the pressure
dropped, repressurize the system and then visually
inspect the system.
,
/ observe the pressure reading “@‘p~ 1 Fig 195 Watch the gauge on the system and
dropped more than 20%, a leak definitely exists, if
the oressure droo is less than 20%. the svstem is
most likely okay:
, cooling system when hot; serious burns can
Another way coolant is lost is by a internal engine occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also,
leak, causing the oil to be contaminated or the when draining engine coolant, keep in mind
coolant to be burned in the process of combustion that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene
and sent out the exhaust. To check for oil contamina- glyeol antifreeze and could drink any that is
tion, remove the dipstick and check the condition of left in an uncovered container or in puddles
the oil in the oil pan. If the oil is murky and has a on the ground. This will prove fatal in suffi-
white or beige “milkshake” look to it, the coolant is cient quantities. Always drain coolant into a
contaminating the oil through an internal leak and the sealable container. Coolant should be reuser
enqine must be torn down to find the leak. If the oil mless it is contaminated or is several years
6. If no signs of a leak are noticed visually, pres-
surize the system to the maximum pressure rating of
the system and leave the uressure tester connected
fl sr about 30 minutes. Return after 30 minutes and
V erify the pressure on the gauge, if the pressure does not verify the situation, removing the spark
plugs one at a time and checking the electrodes for a
green or white tint can verify an internal coolant leak
and identify which cylinder(s) is the culprit and aiding
your search for the cause of the leak. If the spark
plugs appear okay, another method is to use a gas
analyzer or emissions tester, or one of several hand-
held tools that most professional shops possess. This
tools are used to check the cooling system for the
presence of Hydrocarbons (HC’s) in the coolant.
DRAIN & REFILL
p See figures 196 thru 205
Ensure that the engine is completely cool prior to
starting this service.
Never open, service or drain the radiator or
Ippears okay, the coolant can be burned and going
jut the tailpipe. A quick test for this is a cloud of
Nhite smoke appearing from the tailpipe, especially
In start-up. On cold days, the white smoke will ap-
Iear, this is due to condensation and the outside
emperature, not a coolant leak. If the “smoke test”
Fig. 196 The draincock is usually located at
Fig. 197 Gently rotate the draincock coun-
the bottom of the radiator
terclockwise to open the draincock . . .
Fig. 199 Allow the fluid to drain until it stops
and tighten the draineock hand tight
93151p27
1. Remove the recovery tank or radiator cap.
2, Raise and support the vehicle.
3. If necessary, remove the splash shield from un
ler the front of the vehicle.
93im76 Fig, 198 . _ . then allow the coolant to drain
out of the radiator and cooling system
Fig. 200 Make sure to heed the caution on
the radiator cap and NEVER open the cap
1 when the engine is hot ,, Fig. 201 Grasp the radiator cap and rotate
it counterclockwise . . .

3-2 ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
# See Figure 1
In the process of removing the engine, you will
come across a number of steps which call for the re-
moval of a separate component or system, such as
“disconnect the exhaust system” or “remove the radi-
ator.” In most instances, a detailed removal proce-
dure can be found elsewhere in this manual.
It is virtually impossible to list each individual
wire and hose which must be disconnected, simply
because so many different model and engrne combi-
nations have been manufactured Careful observation
and common sense are the best possible approaches
to any repair procedure.
Removal and installation of the engine can be
made easier if you follow these basic points:
l If you have to drain any of the fluids, use a
suitable container.
l Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possrble,
the components they came from before disconnect-
ing them.
l Because there are so many bolts and fasteners
involved, store and label the retainers from compo-
nents separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans.
This will prevent confusion during installatron.
l After unbolting the transmisston or transaxle,
always make sure it is properly supported.
l If it is necessary to disconnect the air condi-
tioning system, have this service performed by a
qualified technician using a recovery/recycling sta-
tion If the system does not have to be disconnected,
unbolt the compressor and set it aside.
l When unbolting the engine mounts, always
make sure the engine is properly supported. When
removing the engine, make sure that any lifting de-
vices are properly attached to the engine. It is recom-
mended that if your engine IS supplied with lifting
hooks, your lifting apparatus be attached to them.
l Lift the engine from its compartment slowly,
checking that no hoses, wires or other components
are still connected.
l After the engine is clear of the compartment,
place it on an engine stand or workbench.
l After the engine has been removed, you can
perform a partial or full teardown of the engine using
the procedures outlined in this manual.
1. Relieve fuel system pressure.
Observe all applicable safety precautions
when working around fuel. Whenever servic-
ing the fuel system, always work in a well
ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or
vapors to come in contact with a spark or
open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extin-
guisher near the work area. Always keep fuel
in a container specifically designed for fuel
storage; also, always properly seal fuel con-
tainers to avoid the possibility of fire or ex-
plosion.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the engine undercover if equipped. 4. Matchmark the hood and hinges and remove
the hood assembly.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and all ad-
joining air intake duct work.
6. Drain the engine coolant, remove the radiator
hoses, and remove the radiator assembly, coolant
reservoir, and intercooler, as equipped.
cooling system when hot; serious burns can
occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also,
when draining engine coolant, keep in mind
that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene
glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is
left in an uncovered container or in puddles
on the ground. This will prove fatal in suffi-
cient quantities. Always drain coolant into a
sealable container. Coolant should be reused
unless it is contaminated or is several years
old.
7. Remove the transaxle and transfer case as
equipped.
8. Tag and detach the following electrical con-
nections:
l Accelerator cable l Heater hoses l Brake booster vacuum hose l Vacuum hoses l Fuel lines l Engine ground cables l Any applicable sensors l Coolant temperature and oil pressure send-
ing units
l Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tempera-
ture sensor
l Connection for the idle speed control mo-
tor
l Fuel injectors l Power transistor l Ignition coil and any applicable distributor
connections
l The connections for the alternator l Power steering pressure switch l A/C compressor l Refrigerant temperature switch l Condenser
9. Remove the air conditioner drive belt and the
air conditioning compressor. Leave the hoses at-
tached. Do not discharge the system. Place the com-
pressor aside and secure it using a suitable device.
10. Remove the power steering pump and place
the pump asrde and secure it using a surtable device.
11. Remove the exhaust manifold-to-exhaust
pipe nuts. Discard the gasket.
12. Install the engine hoist equipment and make
certain the attaching points on the engine are secure.
13. Raise the hoist enough to support the engine.
14. Remove the front and rear engine roll stop-
pers
15. Remove the left engine mount and support
Double check that all cables, hoses, harness
connectors, etc., are disconnected from the
engine.
16. Slowly lift the engine and remove it from the
vehicle.
To install:
17. Install the engine and secure all control
brackets and mounts.
18. Install the transaxle, and transfer case if
equipped.
19. The balance of the installation is the reverse
of removal with the addition of the following notes:
a. Use new clamps or O-rings to connect the
high pressure fuel lme and the fuel return line.
b. Use new gaskets to connect the exhaust
system to the engine.
c. Fill the engine with the proper amount of
engine oil and coolant.
d. Start the engine, allow it to reach normal
operating temperature.
e. Check for leaks.
f. Check the ignition timing and adjust if nec-
essary.
g. Road test the vehicle and check all fluid
levels and functions for proper operation.
Fig. 1 Alignment of the engine mount stop-
oer bracket-Diamante shown
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
Except 3.OL (SOHC and DOHC) and 3.5L
Engines
# See Figures 2 thru 11
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If necessary, remove the air intake hose.
3. If necessary, remove the throttle cable from
the cable routing clips.
Fig. 2 If necessary, remove the throttle ca-
ble from the cable routing clips

.
3-32 ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL
9. Inspect the oil pan for damage and cracks.
Replace if faulty, While the pan is removed, inspect
the oil screen for clogging, damage and cracks, Re-
place if faulty.
To install: 10. Using a wire brush or other tool, scrape clean
all gasket surfaces of the cylinder block and the oil
pan so that all loose material is removed. Clean seal-
ing surfaces of all dirt and oil.
11, Apply sealant around the gasket surfaces of
the oil pan in such a manner that all bolt holes are
circled and there is a continuous bead of sealer
around the entire perimeter of the oil pan.
*The continuous bead of sealer should be
applied in a bead approximately 0.16 in.
(4mm) in diameter.
12. Install the oil pan onto the cylinder block
within 15 minutes after applying sealant. Install the
fasteners and tighten to 4-6 ft. Ibs. (68 Nm).
13. Install the oil return pipe using a new gasket,
if removed. Tighten retainers to 5-7 ft. Ibs. (7-10
Nm).
14. Install the left member and tighten the forward
retainer bolts to 72 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm). Tighten the
rearward left member bolts to 58 ft. Ibs. (80 Nm).
15. Install the transfer assembly and right drive-
shaft.
16. Connect the exhaust pipe from the engine
manifold with new gasket in place. Tighten the ex-
haust pipe to manifold flange nuts to 29 ft. Ibs. (40
Nm).
17. Install the oil drain plug and tighten to 33 ft.
Ibs.
18. Lower the vehicle and fill the crankcase to the
proper level with clean engine oil.
Operating the engine without the proper
amount and type of engine oil will result in
severe enaine damage.
19. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the
engine and check for leaks.
2.4L Engine
) See Figure 139
1, Disconnect the negative battery cable. -
,(L.. K%
2 mM_
-Ip
t 8*t.almcwr
:y&pn
::Elm
93153g30 Fig. 139 Oil pan and related components-
2.4L engine
2. Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
engine oil.
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with
used engine oil may cause a number of skin
disorders, including cancer! You should
make every effort to minimize your exposure
to used engine oil. Protective gloves should
be worn when changing the oil. Wash your
hands and any other exposed skin areas as
soon as possible after exposure to used en-
gine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand
cleaner should be used.
3. Remove the oil dipstick and tube assembly.
4. Detach the Heated Oxygen (HOaS) sensor
connector.
5. Remove the front exhaust pipe from the vehi-
cle.
6. Remove the bell housing cover.
7. Remove the oil pan retainer bolts. Using spe-
cial tool MD998727 or equivalent, tap in between the
engine block and the oil pan.
*Do not use a prytool when removing the oil
pan. Damage to engine components may oc-
cur.
To install:
8. Apply sealant around the gasket surfaces of
the oil pan.
9. Install the oil pan onto the cylinder block
within 15 minutes after applying sealant. Install the
fasteners and tighten to 6 ft. Ibs. (8 Nm).
10. Install the oil drain plug and tighten to 29 ft.
Ibs. (39 Nm).
11. Install the bell housing cover, and tighten the
mounting bolts to 7 ft. Ibs. (9 Nm).
12. Install the front exhaust pipe and tighten the
bolts at the catalytic converter to 36 ft. Ibs. (49 Nm).
Tighten the nuts at the exhaust manifold to 32 ft. Ibs.
(44 Nm).
13. Reconnect the HOPS sensor connector.
Operating the engine without the proper
amount and type of engine oil will result in
severe engine damage.
15. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the
engine and check for leaks.
3.OL Engines
u See Figure 140
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with
used engine oil may cause a number of skin
disorders, including cancer! You should
make every effort to minimize your exposure
to used engine oil. Protective gloves should
be worn when changing the oil. Wash your
hands and any other exposed skin areas as
soon as possible after exposure to used en-
Groove
Hole of bolt 7923PG67 Fig. 140 Oil pan bolt tightening sequence
and application of sealant to the pan-Dia-
mante 3.OL engines
gine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand
cleaner should be used.
3. Remove the left side crossmember. If
equipped with 4WS, it will also be necessary to re-
move the right side crossmember.
4. Remove the starter motor.
5. Disconnect the roll stopper stay bracket, from
the rear transaxle stay bracket. Remove the both
transaxle stay brackets.
6. Remove the bell housing lower cover.
7. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts. Using
special tool MD998727 or equivalent, separate and
remove the engine oil pan.
To install: 8. Apply a 0.16 in. (4mm) continuous bead of
sealer around the surface of the oil pan.
*Assemble the oil pan to the cylinder block
within 15 minutes after applying the sealant.
9. Install the oil pan mounting bolts. Following
proper sequence, tighten mounting bolts to 48 inch
Ibs. (6 Nm).
10. Install lower bell housing cover and the
starter motor.
11, Install the transaxle stay brackets and connect
the roll stopper bracket.
12. Install the crossmember and tighten the
mounting bolts to 43-51 ft. Ibs. (60-70 Nm).
13. Fill the engine with the proper amount of oil.
.
Operating the engine without the proper
amount and type of engine oil will result in
severe engine damage.
14. Connect the negative battery cable and check
for leaks.
3.5L Engine
p See Figures 141, 142, and 143
1, Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the engine oil.
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with
used engine oil may cause a number of skin
disorders, includina cancer! You should
make eve’ry effort to minimize your exposure

.
3-42 ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL
Fig. 180 Silent shaft alignment marks. No,
tice the tension side of the inner (silen
shaft) belt-2.41 enaine
Timing merk
(pun+ on sprocket)
liming m&k
(notch in sprocket)
79245g31 :ig. 181 Timing belt pulley alignmenl
narks-2.41 enoine
20. Hold the pulley tightly so it does not rotate
when the bolt is tlghtened. Tighten the bolt to 15 ft.
Ibs. (20 Nm). If the pulley has moved, the belt will be
too tight
21. Install the timing belt tensioner fully toward
the water pump and temporarily tighten the bolts.
Place the upper end of the spring against the water
pump body. Align the timing marks of the cam,
crankshaft and oil pump sprockets with the corre-
sponding marks on the front case or head.
*If the following steps are not followed ex-
actly, there is a chance that the silent shaft
alignment will be 180 degrees off. This will
cause a noticeable vibration in the engine
and the entire procedure will have to be re-
peated.
22. Before installing the timing belt, ensure that
the left side silent shaft is in the correct position.
*It is possible to align the timing marks on
the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket
and the oil pump sprocket with the lefl bal-
ance shaft out of alignment.
23. With the timing mark on the oil pump pulley
aligned with the mark on the front case, check the
alignment of the left balance shaft to assure correct
shaft timing. a. Remove the plug located on the left side of
the block in the area of the starter.
b. Insert a tool having a shaft diameter of 0.3
in. (8mm) into the hole.
c. With the timing marks still aligned, the tool
must be able to go in at least 2l/s in. (59mm). If
it can only go m about 1 in. (25mm), turn the oil
pump sprocket one complete revolution.
d. Recheck the position of the balance shaft
with the timing marks reahgned. Leave the tool in
place to hold the silent shaft while continuing.
24. Install the belt to the crankshaft sprocket, oil
pump sprocket and the camshaft sprocket, in that or-
der. While doing so, be sure there is no slack be-
tween the sprockets except where the tensioner will
take it up when released.
25. Recheck the timing marks’ alignment.
26. If all are aligned, loosen the tensioner mount-
ing bolt, and allow the tensioner to apply tension to
the belt.
27. Remove the tool that is holding the silent
shaft in place and turn the crankshaft clockwise a dis-
tance equal to two teeth of the camshaft sprocket.
This will allow the tensioner to automatically tension
the belt the proper amount.
Do not manually apply pressure to the ten-
sioner. This will overtighten the belt and will
cause a howling noise.
28. First tighten the lower mounting bolt and then
tighten the upper spacer bolt.
If any binding is felt when adiustino the tim-
ing delt tension by turning th;! crankshaft,
STOP turning the engine, because the pis-
tons may be hitting the valves.
29. To verify that belt tension is correct, check
that the deflection of the longest span (between the
camshaft and oil pump sprockets) is I/* in. (13mm).
30. Install the lower timing belt cover. Be sure the
packing is properly positioned in the inner grooves of
the covers when installing.
31. Install the water pump pulley and the crank-
shaft pulley(s).
32. Install the upper front timing belt cover.
33. Install the power steering pump, alternator,
air conditioning compressor, tension pulley and ac-
companying brackets, as required.
34. Install the radiator, shroud, fan and accessory
drive belts.
35. Install the spark plug wires to the tree on the
upper cover.
36. Refill the cooling system.
37. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the
engme and check for leaks.
3.OL SDHC Engine
1992-94 MODELS
# See Figures 182 and 183
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the engine undercover
3. Remove the cruise control
actuator 4. Remove the accessory drive belts. 5. Remove the air conditioner compressor ten-
sion pulley assembly.
6. Remove the tension pulley bracket.
7. Using the proper equipment, slightly raise
the engine to take the weight off the side engine
mount. Remove the engine mounting bracket.
8. Detach the power steering pump pressure
switch connector. Remove the power steering pump
and wire aside.
9. Remove the engine support bracket.
10. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
11. Remove the timing belt cover cap.
12. Remove the timing belt upper and lower cov-
ers.
13. If the same timing belt will be reused, mark
the direction of the timing belt’s rotation for installa-
tion in the same direction. Make sure the engine is
positioned so the No. 1 cylinder is at the TDC of its
compression stroke and the sprockets’ timing marks
are aligned with the engine’s timing mark indicators.
14. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt and re-
move the belt. If the tensioner is not being removed,
position it as far away from the center of the engine
as possible and tighten the bolt.
15. If the tensioner is being removed, paint the
outside of the spring to ensure that it is not installed
backwards. Unbolt the tensioner and remove it along
with the spring.
To install:
16. Install the tensioner, if removed, and hook the
upper end of the spring to the water pump pin and
the lower end to the tensioner in exactly the same po-
sition as originally installed. If not already done, po-
sition both camshafts so the marks align with those
on the rear. Rotate the crankshaft so the timing mark
aligns with the mark on the oil pump.
17. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft
sprocket and while keeping the belt tight on the ten-
sion side, install the belt on the front camshaft
sprocket.
18. Install the belt on the water pump pulley, then
the rear camshaft sprocket and the tensioner.
19. Rotate the front camshaft counterclockwise to
tension the belt between the front camshaft and the
crankshaft. If the tlmlng marks became misaligned,
repeat the procedure.
20. Install the crankshaft sprocket flange.
21. Loosen the tensioner bolt and allow the
spring to apply tension to the belt.
22. Turn the crankshaft 2 full turns in the clock-
wise direction until the timing marks align again.
Now that the belt is properly tensioned, torque the
tensioner lock bolt to 21 ft. Ibs. (29 Nm). Measure
the belt tension between the rear camshaft sprocket
and the crankshaft with belt tension gauge, The spec-
ification is 46-68 Ibs. (210-310 N).
23. Install the timing covers. Make sure all pieces
of packing are positioned in the inner grooves of the
covers when Installing.
24. install the crankshaft pulley. Tighten the bolt
to 108-116ft. Ibs. (150-160 Nm)
25. Install the engine support bracket.
26. Install the power steering pump and recon-
nect wire harness at the power steering pump pres-
sure switch.
27. Install the engine mounting bracket and re-
move the engine support fixture.
28. Install the tension pulleys and drive belts.
29. Install the cruise control actuator.
30 Install the engine undercover.

.
5-16 FUELSYSTEM
6. Disconnect the return hose and the high
pressure fuel hose.
7. Using special tool MB991480 or equivalent,
remove the fuel pump retaining cap and remove the
pump assembly.
Observe all applicable safety precautions
when working around fuel. Whenever servic-
ing the fuel system, always work in a well
ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or
vapors to come in contact with a spark or
open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extin-
guisher near the work area. Always keep fuel
in a container specifically designed for fuel
storage; also, always properly seal fuel con-
tainers to avoid the possibility of fire or ex-
plosion.
To install:
*If the packing material is damaged or de-
formed, replace it with new packing.
8. Install the packing to the fuel tank.
9. Install the fuel pump assembly to the tank
and align the mating marks on the pump and the
floorpan.
10. Tighten the fuel pump retaining cap using
tool MB991480 or equrvalent.
11. Connect the high pressure hose, return hose
and the fuel tank wirmg.
12. Connect the negative battery cable.
13. Check the fuel pump for proper pressure and
inspect the entire system for leaks.
14. Apply sealant to the access cover and install
the cover.
15. Install the rear seat cushion.
TESTING
1. Relieve fuel system pressure.
2. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
3. Disconnect the fuel hrgh pressure hose at the
delivery pipe side.
Observe all applicable safety precautions
when working around fuel. Whenever servic-
ing the fuel system, always work in a well
ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or
vapors to come in contact with a spark or
open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extin-
guisher near the work area. Always keep fuel
in a container specifically designed for fuel
storage; also, always properly seal fuel con-
tainers to avoid the possibility of fire or ex-
alosion.
4. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to tools
MD998709 and MD998742 or exact equivalent, with
appropriate adapters, seals and/or gaskets to prevent
leaks during the test. Install the gauge and adapter
between the delivery pipe and high pressure hose. In-
stall carefully to prevent leaks.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
6. Apply battery voltage to the terminal for fuel
pump activation (located in the engine compartment)
to run the fuel pump, and check for leaks.
7. Start the engine and run at curb idle speed.
8. Measure the fuel pressure and compare to
the specifications listed in the chart in Section 1.
9. Locate and disconnect the vacuum hose run-
ning to the fuel pressure regulator. Plug the end of
the hose and record the fuel pressure again. The fuel
pressure should have increased approximately IO
psi. 10. Reconnect the vacuum hose the fuel pressure
regulator. After the fuel pressure stabilizes, race the
engine 2-3 times and check that the fuel pressure
does not fall when the engine is running at idle.
il. Check to be sure there is fuel pressure in the
return hose by gently pressing the fuel return hose
with fingers while racing the engine. There will be no
fuel pressure in the return hose when the volume of
fuel flow is low.
12. If fuel pressure is too low, check for a
clogged fuel filter, a defective fuel pressure regulator
or a defective fuel pump, any of which will require re-
placement.
13. If fuel pressure is too high, the fuel pressure
regulator is defective and will have to be replaced or
the fuel return is bent or clogged. If the fuel pressure
readmg does not change when the vacuum hose is
disconnected, the hose is clogged or the valve is
stuck in the fuel pressure regulator and it will have to
be replaced.
14. Stop the engine and check for changes in the
fuel pressure gauge. It should not drop. If the gauge
reading does drop, watch the rate of drop. If fuel
pressure drops slowly, the likely cause is a leaking
injector which will require replacement. If the fuel
pressure drops immediately after the engine is
stopped, the check valve in the fuel pump isn’t clos-
ing and the fuel pump will have to be replaced.
15. Relieve fuel system pressure.
16. Disconnect the high pressure hose and re-
move the fuel pressure gauge from the delivery pipe.
17. Install a new O-ring in the groove of the high
pressure hose. Connect the hose to the delivery pipe
and tighten the screws. After Installation, apply bat-
tery voltage to the terminal for fuel pump activation to
run the fuel pump. Check for leaks.