1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE check engine

SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-13
W-118 Nm*
71-W ft.lbs: 83Nm

69-78 Nm
Compression lower arm assembly
removal steps
1. Connection for compression lower
arm ball joint and knuckle
2. Comoression lower arm mouniina Lateral lower tmn assembly removal
steps
4. stay
bon ’ 3. Compression lower arm assembly 6. CMlnection for lateral lower arm
ball joint and knuckle
7. lateral lower arm mounting boll
andnllt
0. hleral lower am7 assembly
CWtlOtl
l : Indicates parts which should be temporarily tightened,
and then fully tightened with the vehicle on the ground
in the unladen condition
7923PGB8 Fig. 40 Exploded view of the lower control arms-Galant
tion and replace as required. 8.
9. Inspect all bushings for wear and deteriora-
Check the sway bar for damage, and replace
as required.
To install: 10. Install the sway bar into the vehicle.
11. Install the sway bar brackets on the vehicle,
following any side locating markings on the brackets.
Temporarily tighten the sway bar bracket. Align the
bushing end with the marked part of the sway bar and
then fully tighten the sway bar bracket.
12. If equipped with the pillow-ball type mount-
ing, install the sway bar links and link mounting nuts.
Using a wrench, secure the ball studs at both ends of
the sway bar link while tightening the mounting nuts.
Tighten the nuts on the sway bar bolt so that the dis-
tance of bolt protrusion above the top of the nut is
0.63-0.70 in. (1&18mm).
13. Install the front exhaust pipe with new gasket
in place. Tighten new self-locking nuts to 29 ft. Ibs.
(40 Nm). and the sway bar bracket and bushing.
6. 5. Remove the sway bar bracket installation bolt
Disconnect the sway bar coupling at the right
lower control arm. Pull out the left side sway bar
edge, pulling it out between the driveshaft and the
lower arm. Pull out the right side bar below the lower
arm.
To install:
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
A WD VEHICLE
I
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the front exhaust pipe.
3. Remove the center gusset and transfer as-
sembly.
4. Using a wrench to secure the ball studs at
both ends of the sway bar link, remove the sway bar
link mounting nuts. Remove the sway bar link. 11. Connect the negative battery cable.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
7. Install the bar into the vehicle in the same Diamante, Mirage, 1996-93 Galant, and manner as removal. 1999-00 Galant 8. Temporarily tighten the sway bar bracket.
Align the bushing end with the marked part of the
sway bar and then fully tighten the stabilizer bar
bracket.
9. Install and tighten the sway bar bracket bolt.
10. Install the sway bar links and link mounting
nuts Using a wrench, secure the ball studs at both
ends of the sway bar link while tightening the mount-
ing nuts. Tighten the nuts on the sway bar bolt so
that the distance of bolt protrusion above the top of
the nut is 0.63 to 0.70 in. (16 to 18mm).
11. Install the transfer assembly and gusset.
12. Install the left crossmember. Tighten the rear
mounting bolts to 58 ft Ibs. (80 Nm) and the front
mounting bolts to 72 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm). ) See Figures 45, 46, and 47
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise the vehicle and support safely. Remove
the halfshaft nut.
3. If equipped with ABS, remove the front wheel
speed sensor
1994-90 Galant
4. If equipped with Active Electronic Control
Suspension (Active-ECS), disconnect the height sen-.
sor from the lower control arm.
5. Remove the caliper assembly and brake pads.
Suspend the caliper with a wire
6. Using a suitable ball joint separator tool, dis-
connect the ball joint and tie rod end from the steer-
ing knuckle.
7. Remove the halfshaft from the hub.
8. Unbolt the lower end of the strut and remove
the hub and steering knuckle assembly from the vehi-
cle.
9 Remove the hub, bearings and races as fol-
lows.
# See Figures 42, 43, and 44
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle 3. Disconnect the sway bar links by removing
the self-locking nuts.
4. Remove the sway bar mounting brackets and
bushings.
5. Remove the bar from the vehicle.
6. Inspect all components for wear or damage,
and replace parts as needed.
To install: 7. Install the sway bar into the vehicle.
8. Loosely install the sway bar brackets on the
vehicle.
9. Align the side locating markings on the sway
bar, so that the marking on ihe bar, extends approxi-
mately 0.40 inches (1Omm) from the Inner edge of
the mounting bracket, on both sides.
10. With the sway bar properly aligned, tighten
the mounting bracket bolts to 28 ft. Ibs. (39 Nm).
11. Connect the sway links to the damper fork
and the sway bar. Tighten the locking nuts to 28 ft.
Ibs (39 Nm).
12. Lower the vehicle and connect the negative
battery cable.
Diamante
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise the vehicle and support safely.
3. Remove the front exhaust pipe and engine
undercover.
4. Remove the left and right frame members.
5. Remove the sway bar link.
6. Remove the sway bar brackets and remove
the sway bar from the vehicle.
To install: 7. Note that the bar brackets are marked left and
right. Lubricate all rubber parts and install the bush-
ings, the sway bar and brackets.
8. Install the sway bar link.
9. Install the frame members.
10. Install the engine undercover and exhaust
pipe.

.
8132 SUSPENSION AND STEERING
(42 Nm) on Mirage and 36-39 ft. tbs. (49-53 Nm)
on Galant and Diamante models.
19. Have the front end alignment checked, and
adjusted if necessary.
Inner Tie Rods
11. Loosen the inner tie rod end nut from the
steering gear and remove the inner tie rod end.
To install: 12. Using a new lock plate, install the tie rod end
and tighten the tie rod to 65 ft. Ibs. (90 Nm). REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 13. Bend the tabs of the new lock plate to secure
1. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it
on jackstands.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Remove the cotter pin and the outer tie rod
ball joint stud nut. Note the position of the steering
linkage.
4. Wire brush the threads on the tie rod shaft
and lubricate with penetrating oil.
5. Using a suitable ball joint separator tool, re-
move the tie rod ball joint from the steering knuckle.
6. Loosen the locknut and remove the tie rod
end from the tie rod. Count the number of complete
turns it takes to completely remove it.
7. Remove the tie rod-to-steering gear locknut.
8. Remove the clamps that secure the flexible
boot to the steering gear.
9. Slide the boot from the inner tie rod and re-
move the boot.
IO. Bend the lock plate tabs from the inner tie rod
end nut. the inner tie rod end.
14. Slide the boot onto the steering gear and se-
cure it with new clamps.
15. Install the outer tie rod end to the steering
gear locknut.
16. Install the outer tie rod end, turning it in ex-
actly as many turns as it was to remove the old one.
Make sure it is correctly positioned in relationship to
the steering linkage.
22. Have a front end alignment performed. 17. Connect the outer tie rod end to the steering
knuckle and install the castle nut. Tighten the nut to
25 ft. Ibs. (34 Nm,) on the Mirage and 21 ft. Ibs. (29
Nm) on the Galant and Diamante models.
18. Install a new cotter pin to the castle nut.
19. Tighten the tie rod end locking nut to 30 ft.
Ibs. (42 Nm) on the Mirage and 36-39 ft. Ibs. (49-53
Nm) on the Galant and Diamante models.
20. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
21. Lower the vehicle.
Mirage
) See Figure 95
*Prior to removal of the steering rack, cen-
ter the front wheels and remove the ignition
key. Failure to do so may damage the SRS
clockspring and render SRS system inopera-
tive. Be sure to properly disarm the air bag
system.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Raise the vehicle and support safely and re-
move the wheels.
5. Remove the center member. 3. Disconnect the Heated Oxygen (HOzS) sen-
sor and remove the front exhaust pipe.
4. Properly support the engine. Remove both
roll stopper mounting bolts and the four center mem-
ber installation bolts.
18
Nm 13 ft.lbs.
15 - 33 Nm /
11 - 25 ft.lbs. 7
03
L
69 Nm
51 ftlbs.
4.9 Nm 3.6 ft.lbs.
11 - 25 ft.lbs.
1. Steering shaft assembly and
gear box connecting bolt
2. Band
3. Cotter pin I
4. Tie-rod end and knuckle connection 5. Cylinder clamp
6. Gear housing clamp
7. Gear box assembly
8. Steering cover assembly
Fig. 95 Exploded view of the manual steering gear mounting-Mlrage

SUSPENSION AND STEERING 8-33
*Matchmark the pinion input shaft of the
rack to the lower steering column joint for in-
stallation purposes.
6. Remove the pinch bolt holding the lower
steering column joint to the rack and pinion input
shaft.
7. Remove the cotter pins and disconnect the tie
rod ends from the steering knuckle.
8. Remove the rack and pinion steering assem-
bly and its rubber mounts from the right side of the
vehicle.
To install: 9. Align the matchmarks of the input shaft and
install the rack to the vehicle.
10. Secure the rack using the retainer clamps and
bolts. Tighten the bolts to 51 ft. Ibs. (70 Nm).
11. Tighten the steering column pinch bolt to 13
ft. Ibs. (18 Nm).
12. Install the center member.
13. Install the front exhaust pipe.
14. Connect the HO$ sensor.
15. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering
knuckles and tighten the castle nuts to 25 ft. Ibs. (34
Nm). Install new cotter pins.
16. Install the wheels and connect the negative
battery cable.
17. Have a front end alignment performed.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
Diamante
FRONT
*Prior to removal of the steering gear box,
center the front wheels and remove the igni-
tion key. Failure to do so may damage the
SRS clock spring and render SRS system in-
operative.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the front exhaust pipe.
3. If equipped with AWD, remove the transfer
case assembly.
4. Remove the bolt holding the lower steering
column joint to the rack and pinion input shaft.
5. Remove the cotter pins and disconnect the tie
rod ends.
6. Remove the left and right frame members.
7. Remove the stabilizer bar bracket.
8. If equipped with four-wheel steering, discon-
nect the lines going to the rear pump.
9. Remove the rack and pinion steering assem-
bly and its rubber mounts. Move the rack to the right
to remove it from the crossmember.
To install: IO. Install the rack and mounting bolts. Tighten
the bolts to 51 ft. Ibs. (70 Nm). When installing the
rubber rack mounts, align the projection of the
mounting rubber with the indentation in the cross:
member. Install the pinch bolt.
11. Connect the pressure and return lines to the
rack and to the rear pump, if equipped.
12. Install the frame members and tighten the
bolts to 43-51 ft. Ibs. (60-70 Nm).
13. Connect the tie rods and install new cotter
pins. 14. Install the transfer case and front exhaust
pipe.
15. Refill the reservoir and bleed the system.
16. Have a front end alignment performed.
REAR
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise the vehicle and support safely.
3. Drain the power steering fluid.
4. Remove the main muffler assembly.
5. Remove the rear shock absorber lower
mounting bolts.
6. Using the proper equipment, support the
weight of the rear differential. Remove the 2 small
crossmember brackets.
7. Remove the large self-locking crossmember
mounting nuts on the differential side.
8. Remove the oil line clamp bolts.
9. Remove the pressure tubes.
IO. Hold the tie rod ends stationary and remove
the tie rod end nuts. Remove the tie rod ends from
the trailing arms.
11. Remove the mounting bolts and remove the
rear steering gear.
To install: 12. Secure the unit to the crossmember. Move
the power cylinder piston rod over its full stroke to
determine its neutral position.
13. Align the tie rod ends with the holes in the
trailing arms and install the nuts. Adjust the length of
the tie rods with the nuts if necessary. The difference
in length between the 2 tie rod ends should not ex-
ceed 0.04 in. (1 mm). The nuts’ torque specification is
42 ft. Ibs. (58 Nm).
14. Replace the O-rings and install the pressure
tubes. Clamp in place.
15. Install the large self-locking crossmember
mounting nuts on the differential side. Tighten to
80-94 ft. Ibs. (110-130 Nm).
16. Remove the support equipment.
17. Install the 2 small crossmember brackets.
18. Install the shock mounting bolts.
19. Install the muffler assembly.
20. Refill the reservoir and bleed the system.
21. Have a front end alignment performed. _
Galant
1990-93 MODELS
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the power steering fluid.
3. Raise the vehicle and support safely.
4. Remove the bolt holding lower steering col-
umn joint to the rack and pinion input shaft.
5. Remove the transfer case, if equipped.
6. Remove the cotter pins and using the proper
tools, separate the tie rod ends from the steering
knuckle.
7. Locate the triangular brace near the stabilizer
bar brackets on the crossmember and remove both
the brace and the stabilizer bar bracket.
8. Support the center crossmember.
9. Remove the through-bolt from the round roll
stopper and remove the rear bolts from the center
crossmember.
10. Disconnect the front exhaust pipe, if
equipped with FWD.
11. Disconnect the power steering fluid pressure
pipe and return hose from the rack fittings. Plug the
fittings to prevent excess fluid leakage. 12. Lower the crossmember slightly.
13. Remove the rack and pinion steering assem-
bly and its rubber mounts. Move the rack to the right
to remove from the crossmember. Tilt the assembly
downward and remove from the left side of the vehi-
cle. Use caution to avoid damaging the boots.
To install: 14. Install the rack and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 43-58 ft. Ibs. (60-80
Nm). When installing the rubber rack mounts, align
the projection of the mounting rubber with the inden-
tation in the crossmember.
15. Connect the power steering fluid lines to the
rack.
16. Connect the exhaust pipe, if removed.
17. Raise the crossmember into position. Install
the center member mounting bolts and tighten to 72
ft. Ibs. (100 Nm). Install the roll stopper bolt and new
nut. Tighten nut to 47 ft. Ibs. (65 Nm).
18. Install the stabilizer bar brackets and brace.
19. Connect the tie rod ends and tighten nuts to
25 ft. Ibs. (34 Nm).
20. Install the transfer case, if removed. Check
and fill fluid.
21. Refill the reservoir with power steering fluid
and bleed the system.
22. Have a front end alignment performed.
1994-M MODELS
+ See Figure 96
Prior to removal of the steering gear box,
center the front wheels and remove the igni-
tion key. Failure to do so may damage the
SRS clock spring and render SRS system in-
operative.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and properly support the vehicle.
3. Remove both front wheel assemblies.
4. Remove the bolt holding lower steering col-
umn joint to the rack and pinion input shaft.
5. Remove the stabilizer bar.
6. Remove the cotter pins, and using joint sepa-
rator MB991 113 or equivalent, disconnect the tie rod
ends from the steering knuckle.
7. On vehicles equipped with Electronic Control
Power steering (EPS), detach the wiring harness from
the solenoid connector.
8. Locate the two triangular braces near the
crossmember and remove both.
9. Support the center crossmember. Remove the
through-bolt from the front round roll stopper and re-
move the bolts securing the center crossmember.
10. Remove the center crossmember. ,
Il. Properly support the engine and remove the
rear roll stopper through-bolt.
12. Disconnect the power steering fluid pressure
pipe and return hose from the rack fittings. Plug the
fittings to prevent excessive fluid leakage.
13. Remove the clamp bolts and the two bolts se-
curing the rack assembly to the chassis.
14. Remove the rack and pinion steering assem-
bly and its rubber mounts.
*When removing the rack and pinion as-
sembly, tilt the assembly to the vehicle side
of the compression lower arm and remove
from the left side of the vehicle.

9-2 BRAKES
Hydraulic systems are used to actuate the brakes
of all modern automobiles. The system transports the
power required to force the frictional surfaces of the
braking system together from the pedal to the indi-
vidual brake units at each wheel. A hydraulic system
is used for two reasons.
First, fluid under pressure can be carried to all
parts of an automobile by small pipes and flexible
hoses without taking up a significant amount of room
or posing routing problems.
Second, a great mechanical advantage can be
given to the brake pedal end of the system, and the
foot pressure required to actuate the brakes can be
reduced by making the surface area of the master
cylinder pistons smaller than that of any of the pis-
tons in the wheel cylinders or calipers.
The master cylinder consists of a fluid reservoir
along with a double cylinder and piston assembly.
Double type master cylinders are designed to sepa-
rate the front and rear braking systems hydraulically
in case of a leak. The master cylinder converts me-
chanical motion from the pedal into hydraulic pres-
sure within the lines. This pressure is translated back
into mechanical motion at the wheels by either the
wheel cylinder (drum brakes) or the caliper (disc
brakes).
Steel lines carry the brake fluid to a point on the
vehicle’s frame near each of the vehicle’s wheels. The
fluid is then carried to the calipers and wheel cylin-
ders by flexible tubes in order to allow for suspen-
sion and steering movements.
In drum brake systems, each wheel cylinder con-
tains two pistons, one at either end, which push out-
ward in opposite directions and force the brake shoe
into contact with the drum.
In disc brake systems, the cylinders are part of the
calipers. At least one cylinder in each caliper is used
to force the brake pads against the disc.
All pistons employ some type of seal, usually
made of rubber, to minimize fluid leakage. A rubber
dust boot seals the outer end of the cylinder against
dust and dirt. The boot fits around the outer end of
the piston on disc brake calipers, and around the
brake actuating rod on wheel cylinders.
The hydraulic system operates as follows: When at
rest, the entire system, from the piston(s) in the mas-
ter cylinder to those in the wheel cylinders or
calipers, is full of brake fluid. Upon application of the
brake pedal, fluid trapped in front of the master cylin-
der piston(s) is forced through the lines to the wheel
cylinders. Here, it forces the pistons outward, in the
case of drum brakes, and inward toward the disc, in
the case of disc brakes. The motion of the pistons is
opposed by return springs mounted outside the
cylinders in drum brakes, and by spring seals, in disc
brakes.
Upon release of the brake pedal, a spring located
inside the master cylinder immediately returns the
master cylinder pistons to the normal position. The
pistons contain check valves and the master cylinder
I
has compensating ports drilled in it. These are un-
covered as the pistons reach their normal position.
The piston check valves allow fluid to flow toward the
wheel cylinders or calipers as the pistons withdraw.
Then, as the return springs force the brake pads or
shoes into the released position, the excess fluid
reservoir through the compensating ports. It is during the time the pedal is in the released position that any
fluid that has leaked out of the system will be re-
placed through the compensating ports.
Dual circuit master cylinders employ two pistons,
located one behind the other, in the same cylinder.
The primary piston is actuated directly by mechanical
linkage from the brake pedal through the power
booster. The secondary piston is actuated by fluid
trapped between the two pistons. If a leak develops in
front of the secondary piston, it moves forward until it
bottoms against the front of the master cylinder, and
the fluid trapped between the pistons will operate the
rear brakes. If the rear brakes develop a leak, the pri-
mary piston will move forward until direct contact
with the secondary piston takes place, and it will
force the secondary piston to actuate the front brakes.
In either case, the brake pedal moves farther when the
brakes are applied, and less braking power is avail-
able.
All dual circuit systems use a switch to warn the
driver when only half of the brake system is opera-
tional. This switch is usually located in a valve body
which is mounted on the firewall or the frame below
the master cylinder. A hydraulic piston receives pres-
sure from both circuits, each circuits pressure being
applied to one end of the piston. When the pressures
are in balance, the piston remains stationary. When
one circuit has a leak, however, the greater pressure
in that circuit during application of the brakes will
push the piston to one side, closing the switch and
activating the brake warning light.
In disc brake systems, this valve body also con-
tains a metering valve and, in some cases, a propor-
tioning valve. The metering valve keeps pressure
from traveling to the disc brakes on the front wheels
until the brake shoes on the rear wheels have con-
tacted the drums, ensuring that the front brakes will
never be used alone. The proportioning valve con-
trols the pressure to the rear brakes to lessen the
chance of rear wheel lock-up during very hard brak-
ing.
Warning lights may be tested by depressing the
brake pedal and holding it while opening one of the
wheel cylinder bleeder screws. If this does not cause
the light to go on, substitute a new lamp, make conti-
nuity checks, and, finally, replace the switch as nec-
essary.
The hydraulic system may
be checked for leaks by applying pressure to the pedal gradually and steadily.
If the pedal sinks very slowly to the floor, the system
has a leak. This is not to be confused with a springy
or spongy feel due to the compression of air within
the lines. If the system leaks, there will be a gradual
change in the position of the pedal with a constant
pressure.
Check for leaks along all lines and at wheel cylin-
ders. If no external leaks are apparent, the problem is
inside the master cylinder,
DISC BRAKES
Instead of the traditional expanding brakes that
press outward against a circular drum, disc brake
systems utilize a disc (rotor) with brake pads posi-
tioned on either side of it. An easily-seen analogy is
the hand brake arrangement on a bicycle. The pads
squeeze onto the rim of the bike wheel, slowing its
motion. Automobile disc brakes use the identical principle but apply the braking effort to a separate
disc instead of the wheel.
The disc (rotor) is a casting, usually equipped with
cooling fins between the two braking surfaces. This
enables air to circulate between the braking surfaces
making them less sensitive to heat buildup and more
resistant to fade. Dirt and water do not drastically af-
fect braking action since contaminants are thrown off
by the centrifugal action of the rotor or scraped off
the by the pads. Also, the equal clamping action of
the two brake pads tends to ensure uniform, straight
line stops. Disc brakes are inherently self-adjusting.
There are three general types of disc brake:
1. A fixed caliper.
2. A floating caliper.
3. A sliding caliper.
The fixed caliper design uses two pistons
mounted on either side of the rotor (in each side of
the caliper). The caliper is mounted rigidly and does
not move.
The sliding and floating designs are quite similar.
In fact, these two types are often lumped together. In
both designs, the pad on the inside of the rotor is
moved into contact with the rotor by hydraulic force.
The caliper, which is not held in a fixed position,
moves slightly, bringing the outside pad into contact
with the rotor. There are various methods of attaching
floating calipers. Some pivot at the bottom or top,
and some slide on mounting bolts. In any event, the
end result is the same.
DRUM BRAKES
Drum brakes employ two brake shoes mounted on
a stationary backing plate. These shoes are posi-
tioned inside a circular drum which rotates with the
wheel assembly. The shoes are held in place by
springs. This allows them to slide toward the drums
(when they are applied) while keeping the linings and
drums in alignment. The shoes are actuated by a
wheel cylinder which is mounted at the top of the
backing plate. When the brakes are applied, hydraulic
pressure forces the wheel cylinder’s actuating links
outward. Since these links bear directly against the
top of the brake shoes, the tops of the shoes are then
forced against the inner side of the drum. This action
forces the bottoms of the two shoes to contact the
brake drum by rotating the entire assembly slightly
(known as servo action). When pressure within the
wheel cylinder is relaxed, return springs pull the
shoes back away from the drum.
Most modern drum brakes are designed to self-
adjust themselves during application when the vehi-
cle is moving in reverse. This motion causes both
shoes to rotate very slightly with the drum, rocking
an adjusting lever, thereby causing rotation of the ad-
justing screw. Some drum brake systems are de-
signed to self-adjust during application whenever the
brakes are applied. This on-board adjustment system
reduces the need for maintenance adjustments and
keeps both the brake function and pedal feel satisfac-
tory.
POWER BOOSTERS
Virtually all modern vehicles use a vacuum as-
sisted power brake system to multiply the braking
force and reduce pedal effort. Since vacuum is always
available when the engine is operating, the system is

BRAKiS 9-3
simple and efficient. A vacuum diaphragm is located gine. Have an assistant observe the brake lights at the
on the front of the master cylinder and assists the dri- rear of the vehicle while you push on the brake pedal.
ver in applying the brakes, reducing both the effort The lights should come on just as the brake pedal
and travel he must put into moving the brake pedal. passes the point of free play.
The vacuum diaphragm housing is normally con- 9.
Adjust the brake light switch as necessary. The
netted to the intake manifold by a vacuum hose. A small amount of free play in the
pedal should not
check valve is placed at the point where the hose en-
ters the diaphragm housing, so that during periods
Of low manifold vacuum brakes assist will not be lost.
Depressing the brake pedal closes off the vacuum
source and allows atmospheric pressure to enter on
one side of the diaphragm. This causes the master
cylinder pistons to move and apply the brakes. When
the brake pedal is released, vacuum is applied to
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
both sides of the diaphragm and springs return the
diaphragm and master cylinder pistons to the re- ) See Figures 2 thru 10
leased position.
If the vacuum supply fails, the brake pedal rod will
contact the end of the master cylinder actuator rod
and the system will apply the brakes without any
power assistance. The driver will notice that much
higher pedal effort is needed to stop the car and that
the pedal feels harder than usual.
Vacuum leak Test
1. Operate the engine at idle without touching the
brake pedal for at least one minute.
2. Turn off the engine and wait one minute.
3. Test for the presence of assist vacuum by de-
pressing the brake pedal and releasing it several
3 MASTER N- 188A11Ly
times. If vacuum is present in the system, light appli- . KLNsIMEm 0s CLWRANCE
BETWEEN BRAKE WOSTER
cation will produce less and less pedal travel. If there PUSHROO AN0 PRIMARY PISTCU
is no vacuum, air is leaking into the system.
System Operation Test
1. With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal
until the supply vacuum is entirely gone.
2. Put light, steady pressure on the brake pedal.
3. Start the engine and let it idle. If the system is
operating correctly, the brake pedal should fall to-
ward the floor if the constant pressure is maintained.
Power brake systems may be tested for hydraulic
leaks just as ordinary systems are tested.
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
$ See Figure 1
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Detach the stop lamp switch electrical harness
connector.
3. Loosenthe locknut holding the switch to the
bracket. Remove the locknut and the switch.
To install:
4.
Install the new switch and install the locknut,
tightening it just snug.
5. Reposition the brake light switch so that the
distance between the outer case of the switch and the
pedal is 0.02-0.04 in. (0.5-l .Omm). Note that the
switch plunger must press against the pedal to keep
the brake lights off. As the pedal moves away from
the switch, the plunger extends and closes the
switch, which turns on the stop lights.
6.
Hold the switch in the correct position and
tighten the locknut.
7. Connect the wiring to the switch.
8. Check the operation of the switch. Turn the ig-
nition key to the ON position but do not start the en-

9-4 BRAKES
Fig 8 Unfasten the master cylinder-to-
power booster retaining nuts . . . F57g’6~ Fig. 9 . . . then remove the master cylinder
assembly from the vehicle Fig. 10 The brake booster pushrod and prf-
mary piston clearance (A) must be adjusted
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap,
then use a clean turkey baster or equivalent to siphon
out as much fluid as possible and place in a suitable
container. Install the cap.
Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and
polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and
wash your hands thoroughly after handling
brake fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your
eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running wa-
ter for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists,
or if you have taken brake fluid internally,
IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance.
3. Disconnect and plug the lines from the brake
master cylinder reservoir.
4. Detach the fluid level sensor connector, un-
fasten the retainers, then remove the master cylinder
reservoir.
5. For vehicles equipped with manual transaxle,
remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir bracket.
6. Disconnect and plug the brake lines from the
master cylinder.
7. Unfasten the master cylinder-to-power
booster retainino nuts, then remove the master cvlin- ante value will become 0.004-0.012 in.
(0.1-0.3mm).
9. install the master cylinder to the brake
booster, then install the retaining nuts. Tighten the
nuts to 7 ft. Ibs. (10 Nm).
10. Install the master cylinder reservoir, securing
the retainers.
11. Attach the fluid level sensor connector, then
unplug and connect the fluid lines to the reservoir.
12. The remainder of installation is the reverse of
the removal procedure. Fill the reservoir with the
proper type and amount of DOT 3 brake fluid from a
fresh, sealed container.
I l
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to
the safe and proper operation of the brake
system. You should always buy the highest
quality brake fluid that is available. If the
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and
flush the system, then refill the master cylin-
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from
the system should be discarded. Also, do not
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with
a painted surface; it will damage the paint. Measure the brake pedal height from the floor of
the vehicle to the upper surface of the brake pedal.
The distance should be 6.9-7.1 in (176181mm). If
the brake pedal height is incorrect, adjust as follows:
1. Detach the stop lamp switch connector.
2. Loosen the locknut on the base of the stop
light switch and move the switch to a position where
it does not contact the brake pedal.
3. Loosen the operating rod locknut. Adjust the
height of the brake pedal by turning the operating rod
using pliers. Once the desired pedal height is ob-
tained, tighten the locknut on the operating rod.
4. Screw the stop light switch until the it contacts
the brake pedal stopper. Turn switch in until the
brake pedal just starts to move. At this point, return
(loosen) the stoplight switch $-1 turn and secure in
this position by tightening the locknut. In this posi-
tion, the distance between the lower stop light switch
case and the brake pedal stop should be 0.02-0.04
in. (0.5-l .Omm).
5. Attach the electrical connector to the stop light
switch.
6. Check to be sure that the stop lights are not il-
luminated with no pressure on the brake pedal.
7. Without starting the vehicle, depress the brake
pedal. If the brake light switch is properly connected,
the brake lights will illuminate.
der from the vefiicle.
To install:
8. Adjust the clearance (A)
booster pushrod ant
a. Calculate tl -,
between the brake
I the primary piston as follows:
le clearance A from the B, C
accompa-
i D.
I.335 in.
negative and D measurements, as shown in the
nying figure.A equals B minus C minus
b. The clearance should be 0.256-t
(0.65-0.858mm). When brake booster I
pressure 9.7 psi (67 kPa) is applied, then clear- 13. Bleed the brake system, as outlined later in
this section.
14. Adjust the brake pedal, as outlined later in
this section.
BRAKE PEDAL ADJUSTMENTS
Brake Pedal Height
b See Figures 11, 12, and 13 Brake Pedal Free-Play
II See Figure 14
1. With the engine off, depress the brake pedal
fully several times to evacuate the vacuum in the
booster.
2. Once all the vacuum assist has been elimi-
nated, press the brake pedal down by hand and con-
/
0.5-1.0 mm (.020-B40in.J I
I
I I
Fig. 12 Adjust the brake pedal height by in- I I.
@57w
Cir 44 “a*., .._^ *I.- 9.--l,- ---I-* L-@-L. -I Fig. 13 Inspect the clearance between thf . . - _-.L -*.a- - . . * _ . . . . ._ . rly. I I rnca~urc we urime peoai nefgnr ar
A and compare to specifications creasmg or aecreasing the lengrn or me op-
erating rod mop llgnt WItCh arm the brake pedal stop
and compare to specifications

BRAKES 9-5
Inspect brake pedal free-play
firm that the amount of movement before resistance
is felt is within 0.1-0.3 in. (3-8mm).
3. If the free-play is less than desired, confirm
that the brake light switch is in proper adjustment.
4. If there is excessive free-play, look for wear or
play in the clevis pin and brake pedal arm. Replace
worn parts as required and recheck brake pedal free-
Play*
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION '
b See Figure 15
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Siphon the brake fluid from the master cylin-
der reservoir.
Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and
polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and
wash your hands thoroughly after handling
brake fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your
eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running wa-
. ter for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists,
or if you have taken brake fluid internally,
IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance.
3. Remove and relocate the air conditioning re-
lay box and the solenoid valve located at the power
brake unit.
4. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
booster by pulling it straight off. Prying off the vac-
uum hose could damage the check valve installed in
the brake booster vacuum hose.
5. Detach the electrical harness connector from
the brake level sensor.
6. Remove the nuts attaching the master cylin-
der to the booster and remove the master cylinder
and position aside. If necessary, disconnect and plug
the brake fluid lines at the master cylinder.
7. From inside the passenger compartment, re-
move the cotter pin and clevis pin that secures the
booster pushrod to the brake pedal.
8. From inside the vehicle, remove the nuts that
attach the booster to the dash panel. Remove the
brake booster from the engine compartment.
To install: 9. Install the brake booster to the dash panel.
From inside the vehicle, install the attaching nuts and
tighten to 12 ft. Ibs. (17 Nm). 10. Apply grease to the clevis pin and install with
washers in place. Install new cotter pin and bend to
secure in place.
11. Attach the vacuum hose to the booster fitting.
12. Install the master cylinder assembly to the
mounting studs on the brake booster. Install the mas-
ter cylinder mounting nuts and tighten to 9 ft. Ibs. (12
Nm).
13. Reconnect the brake fluid reservoir to the
master cylinder, if disconnected. Attach the electrical
connector to the brake fluid level sensor.
14. Install the solenoid valve assembly and the
relay box, if removed.
15. Connect the negative battery cable.
16. Add fluid to the brake fluid reservoir as re-
quired.
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essentlal to
the safe and proper operation of the brake
system. You should always buy the highest
quality brake fluid that is available. If the
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and
flush the system, then refill the master cylin-
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from
the system should be discarded. Also, do not
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with
a painted surface; it will damage the paint.
17. Bleed the master cylinder. If after bleeding the
master cylinder the brake pedal feels soft, bleed the
brake system at all wheels.
18. Check the brake system for proper operation. *
rn( mr
'13 1. Relay box for air
conditioner
l-13 t- I, Ltx5. 5-18 NM 2. Solenoid valve
3. Brake fluid level
sensor connector
6 4. Brake tube
5. Master cylinder, hose
and reservoir
assem biy
Fig. 15 Exploded view of the power brake booster and related components-most models
12.
13.
14. Fitting 1
Cotter pin;
Washer 1
Clevis pin’ Fuel retuti tub8 installatiob bolt
Brake tUd8 installatioh bolt
Brake booster
Sealer
89579glt

BRAKES 9-23
1. Make sure the parking brake cable is free and
is not frozen or sticking.
2. Apply the parking brake with 45 Ibs. (200 N) of
force while counting the number of notches. The de-
sired parking brake stroke should be 5-7 notches.
3. If adjustment is required, access the adjusting
nut from inside the floor console.
4. Loosen the locknut on the cable rod.
5. Rotate the adjusting nut to adjust the parking
brake stroke to the 5-7 notch setting. After making
the adjustment, check there is no looseness between
the adjusting nut and the parking brake lever, then
tighten the locknut.
*Do not adjust the parking brake too tight. If
the number of notches is less than specifica-
tion, the cable has been pulled too much and
the automatic adjuster will fail or the brakes
will drag.
6. After adjusting the lever stroke, raise the rear of
the vehicle and safely support. With the parking brake
lever in the released position, turn the rear wheels to
confirm that the rear brakes are not dragging.
7. Check that the parking brake holds the vehicle
on an incline.
Galant
‘ 1990-93 VEHICLES
# See Figure 111
1. Pull the parking brake lever up with a force of
about 45 Ibs. (200 N). The total number of clicks
heard should be 5-7 clicks. If the number of clicks
was not within that range, the system requires adjust-
ment.
*The parking brake shoes must be adjusted
before attempting to adjust the cable mecha-
nism
2. To adjust the parking brake shoes perform the
following steps.
a. Remove the floor console, release the lever
and back off the cable adjuster locknut at the
base of the lever.
b. Raise the vehicle, support safely and re-
move the wheel.
c. Remove the hole plug in the brake rotor.
d. Remove the brake caliper and hang out of
the way with wire. Do not disconnect the fluid
line.
e. Use a suitable prybar to pry up on the self-
adjuster wheel until the rotor will not turn.
f. Return the adjuster 5 notches in the oppo-
site direction. Make sure the rotor turns freely
with a slight drag.
Fig. 111 Parking brake system adjustment
points-1993 Galant
g. Install the caliper and check operation.
3. Once the parking brake shoes have been prop-
erly adjusted, adjust the cable mechanism, by per-
forming the following steps: _
a. Turn the adjusting nut to give the proper
number of clicks when the lever is raised full
travel.
b. Raise and support the rear of the car on
jackstands.
c. Release the brake lever and make sure that
the rear wheels turn freely. If not, back off on the
adjusting nut until they do.
1994470 VEHICLES
1, Pull the parking brake lever with a force of ap-
prox. 45 Ibs. (200 N) and count the number of
notches. Standard value is: 5-7 notches.
The 45 lbs. (200 N) force of the parking brake
lever must be strictly observed.
2. If the parking brake lever is not the standard
value, adjust in the following manner:
a. Remove the inner compartment mat of the
floor console
b. Loosen the adjusting nut at the end of the
cable rod, freeing the parking brake.
c. With the engine idling, forcefully depress
the brake pedal five or six times and confirm that
the pedal stroke stops changing. If the pedal
stroke stops changing, the automatic-adjustment
mechanism is functioning normally, and the
clearance between the shoe and the drum is cor-
rect.
d. After adjusting the parking brake lever
stroke, safely raise and support the rear of the
vehicle and with the parking brake lever in the re-
leased position, turn the rear wheels to confirm
that there is no brake drag.
Diamante
1. Pull the parking brake lever up with a force of
about 45 Ibs. (200 N). The total number of clicks
heard should be 3-5. If the number of clicks was not
within that range, the system requires adjustment.
93159901 Fig. 112 Exploded view of the parking shoes
and related components-1994-00 Galant
with disc brakes *The parking brake shoes must be adjusted
before attempting to adjust the cable mecha-
nism
2. To adjust the parking brake shoes, perform the
following steps: -
a. Remove the floor console, release the lever
and back off the cable adjuster locknut at the
base of the lever.
b. Raise the vehicle, support safely and re-
move the wheel. Remove the hole plug in the
brake rotor.
c. Remove the brake caliper and hang out of
the way with wire, Do not disconnect the fluid
line.
d. Use a suitable prybar to pry up on the self-
adjuster wheel until the rotor will not turn.
e. Return the adjuster 5 notches in the oppo-
site direction, Make sure the rotor turns freely
with a slight drag.
f. Install the caliper and check operation.
3. Once the parking brake shoes have been prop-
erly adjusted, adjust the cable mechanism, by per-
forming the following steps:
a. Pull the parking brake lever up with a force
of 45 Ibs. (200 N). The total number of clicks
heard should be 3-5.
b. Turn the adjusting
nut to give the proper
number of clicks when the lever is raised.
c. Raise and support the rear of the car on
jackstands.
d. Release the brake lever and make sure
that the rear wheels turn freely.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1994-00 Galant and 1992-96 Diamante
# See Figures 112, 113, and 114
1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely
on jackstands.
2. Remove the caliper assembly.
3. Remove the rear brake rotor.
I
I 93159902 Fig. 113 Exploded view of the parking brake
shoes and related components-1992-96
Diamante