
DRIVETRAIN 7-9 
*When adjusting the clutch pedal height or 
the clutch pedal clevis pin play, be careful 
not to push the pushrod toward the master 
cylinder. 
d. Check that when the clutch pedal is de- 
pressed all the way, the interlock switch switches 
over from ON to OFF. 
ADJUSTMENT 
# See Figure 42 
*The following adjustment is for the cable 
actuated clutch system on the Mirage. The 
Hydraulic systems on all other models are 
self-adjusting. 
1. Measure the clutch pedal height (measurement 
A). The specificatron is 6.38-6.50 in. 
(162-165mm). 
*The clutch pedal height is not adjustable. 
If not within specifications, part replacement 
is required. 
2. Depress clutch pedal several times and check 
the pedal free-play (measurement B). 
3. If measurement is not 0.67-0.87 in. 
(17-22mm), adjustment is required. 
4. To adjust, turn the outer cable adjusting nut, 
located at the firewall, until free-play is within range. 
5. Depress the clutch pedal several times and 
recheck the measurement. 
REMOVALANDINSTALLATION 
1. Rotate the adjusting wheel counterclockwise to 
loosen the cable. 
2. Remove the cable retaining clamps. 
3. Remove the cotter pin from the clutch actuat- 
ing arm at the transaxle and disconnect the cable. 
4. Disconnect the cable at the pedal and remove 
the cable from the vehicle. 
rln order to prevent cable binding or abra- 
sion, be sure to take note of the cable rout- 
ing, so that it can be reinstalled in the same 
position. 
To install: 
5. Route the cable and make the connection at the 
clutch pedal. 
6. Make the connection at the transaxle and se- 
cure the cable with the retaining clamp. Install a new 
cotter pin. 
7. Lubricate all pivot points. 
8 Adjust the cable to achieve proper free-play. 
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 
I 
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 
2. Remove necessary underhood components in 
order to gain access to the clutch master cylinder. 
Clutch pedal height 
Fig. 42 Clutch pedal height (A) measure- 
ment-Mirage 
7923PGDl 
3. Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle to 
catch the fluid once the line IS drsconnected, or place 
a rag or shop towel under the fluid line of the master 
cylinder. 
4. Loosen the line at the cylinder and allow the 
fluid to drain. 
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to 
the safe and proper operation of the brake 
system. You should always buy the highest 
quality brake fluid that is available. If the 
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and 
flush the system, then refill the master cylin- 
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake 
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from 
the system should be discarded. Also, do not 
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with 
a oainted surface; it will damage the paint. 
5. Remove the clevis pin retainer at the clutch 
pedal and remove the washer and clevis pm. 
6. Remove the 2 nuts and pull the cylinder from 
the firewall. A seal should be between the mounting 
flange and firewall. This seal should be replaced. 
7. The installation is the reverse of the removal 
procedure. 
8. Lubricate all pivot points with grease. 
9. Bleed the system at the slave cylinder using 
DOT 3 brake fluid and check the adjustment of the 
clutch pedal. 
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable 
2. Remove necessary underhood components in 
order to gain access to the clutch release cylinder. 
3. Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle, 
then remove the hydraulic line and allow the system 
to drain. 
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to 
the safe and proper operation of the brake 
system. You should always buy the highest quality brake fluid that is available. If the 
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and 
flush the system, then refill the master cylin- 
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake 
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from 
the system should be discarded. Also, do not 
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with 
a uainted surface; it will damage the paint. 
4. Remove the bolts and pull the cylinder from 
the transaxle housing. On some 1.5L engines, in- 
stead of a pushrod bearing against the clutch arm, a 
clevis pin and yoke is used. Simply remove the cir- 
clip, pull out the clevis pin and remove the cylinder. 
5. The installation IS the reverse of the removal 
procedure. 
6. Lubricate all pivot points with grease. 
7. Bleed the system using DOT 3 brake fluid. 
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING 
) See Figure 43 
With Hydraulic Clutch 
1, Fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid meeting 
DOT 3 specificatrons. 
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to 
the safe and proper operation of the brake 
system. You should always buy the highest 
quality brake fluid that is available. If the 
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and 
flush the system, then refill the master cylin- 
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake 
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from 
the system should be discarded. Also, do not 
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with 
a painted surface; it will damage the paint. 
2. Press the clutch pedal to the floor, then open 
the bleeder screw on the slave cvlinder. 
3. Tighten the bleed screw and release the clutch 
pedal. 
4. Repeat the procedure until the fluid is free of 
air bubbles. 
7923PG91 Fig. 43 Bleeding a typical clutch hydraulic 
system  

9-4 BRAKES 
Fig 8 Unfasten the master cylinder-to- 
power booster retaining nuts . . . F57g’6~ Fig. 9 . . . then remove the master cylinder 
assembly from the vehicle Fig. 10 The brake booster pushrod and prf- 
mary piston clearance (A) must be adjusted 
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 
2. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap, 
then use a clean turkey baster or equivalent to siphon 
out as much fluid as possible and place in a suitable 
container. Install the cap. 
Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and 
polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and 
wash your hands thoroughly after handling 
brake fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your 
eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running wa- 
ter for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, 
or if you have taken brake fluid internally, 
IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance. 
3. Disconnect and plug the lines from the brake 
master cylinder reservoir. 
4. Detach the fluid level sensor connector, un- 
fasten the retainers, then remove the master cylinder 
reservoir. 
5. For vehicles equipped with manual transaxle, 
remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir bracket. 
6. Disconnect and plug the brake lines from the 
master cylinder. 
7. Unfasten the master cylinder-to-power 
booster retainino nuts, then remove the master cvlin- ante value will become 0.004-0.012 in. 
(0.1-0.3mm). 
9. install the master cylinder to the brake 
booster, then install the retaining nuts. Tighten the 
nuts to 7 ft. Ibs. (10 Nm). 
10. Install the master cylinder reservoir, securing 
the retainers. 
11. Attach the fluid level sensor connector, then 
unplug and connect the fluid lines to the reservoir. 
12. The remainder of installation is the reverse of 
the removal procedure. Fill the reservoir with the 
proper type and amount of DOT 3 brake fluid from a 
fresh, sealed container. 
I l 
Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to 
the safe and proper operation of the brake 
system. You should always buy the highest 
quality brake fluid that is available. If the 
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and 
flush the system, then refill the master cylin- 
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake 
fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from 
the system should be discarded. Also, do not 
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with 
a painted surface; it will damage the paint. Measure the brake pedal height from the floor of 
the vehicle to the upper surface of the brake pedal. 
The distance should be 6.9-7.1 in (176181mm). If 
the brake pedal height is incorrect, adjust as follows: 
1. Detach the stop lamp switch connector. 
2. Loosen the locknut on the base of the stop 
light switch and move the switch to a position where 
it does not contact the brake pedal. 
3. Loosen the operating rod locknut. Adjust the 
height of the brake pedal by turning the operating rod 
using pliers. Once the desired pedal height is ob- 
tained, tighten the locknut on the operating rod. 
4. Screw the stop light switch until the it contacts 
the brake pedal stopper. Turn switch in until the 
brake pedal just starts to move. At this point, return 
(loosen) the stoplight switch $-1 turn and secure in 
this position by tightening the locknut. In this posi- 
tion, the distance between the lower stop light switch 
case and the brake pedal stop should be 0.02-0.04 
in. (0.5-l .Omm). 
5. Attach the electrical connector to the stop light 
switch. 
6. Check to be sure that the stop lights are not il- 
luminated with no pressure on the brake pedal. 
7. Without starting the vehicle, depress the brake 
pedal. If the brake light switch is properly connected, 
the brake lights will illuminate. 
der from the vefiicle. 
To install: 
8. Adjust the clearance (A) 
booster pushrod ant 
a. Calculate tl -, 
between the brake 
I the primary piston as follows: 
le clearance A from the B, C 
accompa- 
i D. 
I.335 in. 
negative  and D measurements, as shown in the 
nying figure.A equals B minus C minus 
b. The clearance should be 0.256-t 
(0.65-0.858mm). When brake booster I 
pressure 9.7 psi (67 kPa) is applied, then clear- 13. Bleed the brake system, as outlined later in 
this section. 
14. Adjust the brake pedal, as outlined later in 
this section. 
BRAKE PEDAL ADJUSTMENTS 
Brake Pedal Height 
b See Figures 11, 12, and 13 Brake Pedal Free-Play 
II See Figure 14 
1. With the engine off, depress the brake pedal 
fully several times to evacuate the vacuum in the 
booster. 
2. Once all the vacuum assist has been elimi- 
nated, press the brake pedal down by hand and con- 
/ 
  0.5-1.0 mm (.020-B40in.J I 
I   
I I 
Fig. 12 Adjust the brake pedal height by in- I I. 
@57w 
Cir 44 “a*., .._^ *I.- 9.--l,- ---I-* L-@-L. -I Fig. 13 Inspect the clearance between thf . . - _-.L -*.a- - . . * _ . . . . ._ . rly. I I rnca~urc we urime peoai nefgnr ar 
A and compare to specifications creasmg or aecreasing the lengrn or me op- 
erating rod mop llgnt WItCh arm the brake pedal stop 
and compare to specifications  

BODYANDTRIM 10-3 
3. Check the hood latch operation; it should en- 
gage easily and smoothly. The latch should release 
without the use of excessive force. The hood latch 
mounting bolts may be loosened; the latch can be 
adjusted left/right or up/down to compensate for the 
hood striker position. 
4. With the hood closed and latched, check the 
height of the hood. It should sit even with the fender 
tops; this dimension may be adjusted by turning the 
hood stops to a higher or lower position. Note that 
adjusting these stops may require readjustment of the 
latch to position the hood correctly. 
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 
1999-92 Mirage 
1. Disconnect the liftgate support or strut. The 
9315Ql10 struts are held by either a cross-point screw or a bolt. 
2. Disconnect the washer tube running to the 
glass. 
3. Disconnect any necessary wiring harnesses. 
4. Close the hatch. From the inside of the vehi- 
cle, remove the nuts holding the lid to the hinge. 
With an assistant. carefullv ooen the lid and remove it 
from the car. ’ 
To install: 
5. Fit the hatch into place and install the nuts 
finger tight. 
6. Reinstall the support. 
7. Close the tailgate and align it by checking the 
seam all around. Thegap must be equal and even. 
Align the hatch by moving it on the hinges until cor- 
rectly placed, then tighten the hinge nuts to 11 ft. Ibs. 
(15 Nm). 
8. Attach the electrical harnesses. 
9. Connect the rear windshield washer tube. 
Make sure it is pressed firmly onto the fitting. 
10. Check the alignment of the hatch. 
ALIGNMENT 
Close the hatch and align it by checking the seam 
all around. The gap must be equal and even. Align 
the hatch by moving it on the hinges until correctly 
placed, then tighten the hinge nuts. The final position 
of the lid may be further adjusted by moving the latch 
and/or striker on their mounts. When fully closed, the 
hatch must be flush with the surrounding body pan- 
els. Minor adjustments in this dimension may be 
made by turning the rubber bumpers in or out as 
needed. 
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 
then remove the hose retaining 
ALIGNMENT 
1, Close the hood, at least engaging the first 
latch, and check the hood-to-fender and hood-to- 
cowl seams and alignment. Re-open the hood and Fig. 7 With an assistant supporting the 
make adjustments as needed to give equal seams all 
around. When the hood is in final alignment, tighten 
the hinge bolts. 
2. Reconnect the washer lines and any electrical 
lines which were disconnected. Diamante Wagon 
ti See Figure 8 
1. Disconnect the tailgate support. 
2. Disconnect the washer fluid tube. 
3. Disconnect any necessary wiring harnesses. 
4. Have an assistant support the tailgate. 
5. Remove the nuts holding the tailgate to the 
hinge.  

10-4 BODYANDTRIM 
Fig. 8 Tailgate assembly mounting-Dia- 
mante Wagon 
6. Remove the tailgate from the vehicle and place 
it in a safe place. 
7. The installation is the reverse of removal. 
Tighten the hinge 
nuts to IO ft. Ibs. (14 Nm). 
8. Check the alignment of the tailgate. 
ALIGNMENT 
To adjust the tailgate, loosen the tailgate hinge-to- 
body bolts or tailgate latch assembly mounting 
screws and adjust as necessary. 
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 
2. Open the trunk lid. Identify the trunk release 
cable running from the latch to the body. 
3. Disconnect the cable from the latch. 
4. Detach any necessary electrical connectors. 
5. Outline the position of the hinges on the 
trunk lid. 
6. Support the trunk lid in the open position. 
7. If equipped, insert a small prytool into the 
lock cover slit, remove the lock covers, then remove 
the trunk lid gas springs. 
8. Unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the 
trunk lid hinges. 
9. Remove the trunk lid from the vehicle 
10. Installation is the reverse of the removal pro- 
cedure. 
11. If necessary, align the trunk lid. 
ALIGNMENT 
1. Close the lid and check both the seam width 
all around and the closed height. The trunk lid must 
be flush with the adjacent panels. Minor height ad- 
justments may be made by turning the rubber 
bumpers on the trunk lid. Additional adjustments re- 
quire loosening and repositioning of the latch and/or 
striker. 
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 
? See Figure 9 
1. Knob 2. Delta cover inner 
3. Boot 
4. Door mirror 
5. Mirror 
Fig. .9 Outside door mirror 
1994-98 Galant shown 
, others 9315oQ1 i mounting- 
similar 
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 
2. Remove the delta cover (the triangular trim 
cover) from the top of the door panel. 
3. On manual mirrors remove the set screw and 
the adjustment knob. 
4. If the mirror is electric, disconnect the wire 
harness. 
5. Remove the mounting nuts and the door trim 
bracket. 
6. Lift the mirror from the vehicle. 
To install: 7. Position the mirror on the vehicle. 
8. Install the door trim bracket and the mount- 
ing nuts. 
9. If the mirror is electric, reconnect the wire 
harness. 
IO. On manual mirrors, install the knob and set 
screw. 
11. Install the delta cover. 
12. Connect the negative battery cable. 
13. If electric, cycle the mirror several times to 
make sure that it works properly. 
# See Figure 11 
REPLACEMENT 
1990-92 Mirage 
b 
See Figure 10 
*The mast may be replaced separately by 
simply unscrewing it from the base. The fol- 
1. center panel and glove box 
2 scuff plate 
3 cowl 51ae wm 
4 Washer duct 
7 CaMeband 
8 cap 
9 Anrsnna mast 
10 Antenna base “ourmng ““f 
11 Antennz.base 
%i%Qol 
Fig. 10 Antenna mounting-1990-92 Mi- 
rage lowing procedure is for replacing the base 
and cable as a unit. 
1 I Raise and safely support the vehicle securely 
on jackstands. 
2. Remove the passenger side front wheel. 
3. Remove the splash shield inside the passen- 
ger side front wheel arch. 
4. Remove the center panel {for radio access) 
and remove the glove box. 
5. Remove the right side sill plate and remove 
the kick panel. 
6. If the car has a rear heater, remove the 
shower duct under the glove box. 
7. Carefully remove the PCM. For more details, 
please refer to Section 4. 
8. Remove the radio and disconnect the antenna 
cable. 
9. Release the cable from the bands and clips 
holding it under the dash. 
10. Unscrew the mast from the antenna base. 
II. Remove the upper base mounting nut (at the 
fender) and disconnect the lower bolt holding the 
mast. Remove the mast and carefully remove the ca- 
ble. 
12. Install the new unit, tightening both the upper 
nut and lower bolt. 
13. Carefully feed the cable into the car and route 
it to the radio. Engage the cable in the clips and in- 
stall new retaining bands. 
14. Connect the antenna cable to the radio and 
reinstall the radio. 
15. Replace the MPI control unit. t 
16. Install the heater duct, if it was removed, and 
install the kick panel on the right side. 
17. Install the sill plate. Install the glove box. 
18. Install the center panel. 
19. Reinstall the wheel arch splash shield. Install 
the wheel if it was removed. Lower the car to the 
ground. 
1993-00 Mirage 
I. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 
2. Remove the antenna base retaining screws. 
3. Lift the base and mast assembly up from the 
roof. 
4. Detach the connector for the antenna. 
5. The installation is the reverse of removal. 
1. Pole 
2. Knee protactor 
3. Air outlet center panel assembly 4. Radto and laps player 
5. Cowl side trim (driver’s side) 
6. Chp 
7. Antenna base 
6. Base 
931 !iogo2 Fig. 11 Antenna mounting-1993-00 Mi- 
rage  

II-10 TROUBLESHOOTING 
1. Transmission grinds going into forward gears while driving 
a. Check the clutch release system. On clutches with a mechanical or cable linkage, 
check the adjustment. Adjust the clutch pedal to have 1 inch (25mm) of free-play at 
the pedal. 
b. If the clutch release system is hydraulically operated, check the fluid level and, if low, 
top off using the recommended type and amount of fluid. , 
c. Synchronizers worn. Remove transmission and replace synchronizers. 
d. Synchronizer sliding sleeve worn. Remove transmission and replace sliding sleeve. 
e. Gear engagement dogs worn or damaged. Remove transmission and replace gear. 
2. Transmission jumps out of gear 
a. Shift shaft detent springs worn. Replace shift detent springs. 
b. Synchronizer sliding sleeve worn. Remove transmission and replace sliding sleeve. 
c. Gear engagement dogs worn or damaged. Remove transmission and replace gear. 
d. Crankshaft thrust bearings worn. Remove engine and crankshaft, and repair as neces- 
sary. 
3. Transmission difficult to shift 
a. Verify the clutch adjustment and, if not properly adjusted, adjust to specification. 
b. Synchronizers worn. Remove transmission and replace synchronizers. 
c. Pilot bearing seized. Remove transmission and replace pilot bearing. 
d. Shift linkage or bushing seized. Disassemble the shift linkage, replace worn or dam- 
aged bushings, lubricate and reinstall. 
4. Transmission leaks fluid 
a. Check the fluid level for an overfilled condition. Adjust the fluid level to specification. 
b. Check for a restricted transmission vent or breather tube. Clear the blockage as neces- 
sary and check the fluid level. If necessary, top off with the recommended lubricant. 
c. Check for a porous casting, leaking seal or gasket. Replace defective parts and top off 
the fluid level with the recommended lubricant. 
1. Clutch slips on hills or during sudden acceleration 
a. Check for insufficient clutch pedal free-play. Adjust clutch linkage or cable to allow 
about 1 inch (25mm) of pedal free-play. 
b. Clutch disc worn or severely damaged. Remove engine or transmission and replace 
clutch disc. 
c. Clutch pressure plate is weak. Remove engine or transmission and replace the clutch 
pressure plate and clutch disc. 
d. Clutch pressure plate and/or flywheel incorrectly machined. If the clutch system has 
been recently replaced and rebuilt, or refurbished parts have been used, it is possible 
that the machined surfaces decreased the clutch clamping force. Replace defective 
parts with new replacement parts. 
2. Clutch will not disengage, difficult to shift 
a. Check the clutch release mechanism. Check for stretched cables, worn linkages or 
failed clutch hydraulics and replace defective parts. On hydraulically operated clutch 
release mechanisms, check for air in the hydraulic system and bleed as necessary. 
b. Check for a broken, cracked or fatigued clutch release arm or release arm pivot. Re- 
place defective parts and properly lubricate upon assembly. 
c. Check for a damaged clutch hub damper or damper spring. The broken parts tend to 
become lodged between the clutch disc and the pressure plate. Disassemble clutch 
system and replace failed parts. 
d. Check for a seized clutch pilot bearing. Disassemble the clutch assembly and replace 
the defective parts. 
e. Check for a defective clutch disc. Check for warpage or liningthicknesses larger than 
original equipment. 
3. Clutch is noisy when the clutch pedal is pressed 
a. Check the clutch pedal stop and pedal free-play adjustment for excessive movement 
and adjust as necessary. 
b. Check for a worn or damaged release bearing. If the noise ceases when the pedal is re- 
leased, the release bearing should be replaced. 
c. Check the engine crankshaft axial play. If the crankshaft thrust bearings are worn or 
damaged, the crankshaft will move when pressing the clutch pedal. The engine must 
be disassembled to replace the crankshaft thrust bearings. 
4. Clutch pedal extremely difficult to press 
a. Check the clutch pedal pivots and linkages for binding. Clean and lubricate linkages. 
b. On cable actuated clutch systems, check the cable routing and condition. Replace 
kinked, frayed, damaged or corroded cables and check cable routing to avoid sharp 
bends. Check the engine ground strap for poor conductivity. If the ground strap is 
marginal, the engine could try to ground itself via the clutch cable, causing premature 
failure. c. On mechanical linkage clutches, check the linkage for binding or misalignment. Lubri- 
cate pivots or linkages and repair as necessary. 
d. Check the release bearing guide tube and release fork for a lack of lubrication. Install a 
smooth coating of high temperature grease to allow smooth movement of the release 
bearing over the guide tube. 
5. Clutch pedal remains down when pressed 
a, On mechanical linkage or cable actuated clutches, check for a loose or disconnected 
link. 
b. On hydraulically actuated clutches, check the fluid level and check for a hydraulic leak 
at the clutch slave or master cylinder, or hydraulic line. Replace failed parts and bleed 
clutch hydraulic system. If no leakage is noted, the clutch master cylinder may have 
failed internally. Replace the clutch master cylinder and bleed the clutch hydraulic sys- 
tem. 
6. clutch chatters when engaging 
a. Check the engine flywheel for warpage or surface variations and replace or repair as 
necessary. 
b. Check for a warped clutch disc or damaged clutch damper hub. Remove the clutch 
disc and replace. 
c. Check for a loose or damaged clutch pressure plate and replace defective components. 
NOTE: The clutch is actuated either by a mechanical linkage, cable or a 
clutch hydraulic system. The mechanical linkage and cable systems may 
require the clutch pedal free-play to be adjusted as the clutch disc wears. A 
hydraulic clutch system automatically adjusts as the clutch wears and, with 
the exception of the clutch pedal height, no adjustment is possible. 
1. Differential makes a low pitched rumbling noise 
a. Check fluid level type and amount. Replace the fluid with the recommended type and 
amount of lubricant. 
b. Check the differential bearings for wear or damage. Remove the bearings, inspect the 
drive and driven gears for wear or damage, and replace components as necessary. 
2. Differential makes a howling noise 
a. Check fluid level type and amount. Replace the fluid with the recommended type and 
amount of lubricant. 
b. Check the differential drive and driven gears for wear or damage, and replace compo- 
nents as necessary. 
All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles 
1. Leaks fluid from seals or vent after being driven 
a. Fluid level overfilled. Check and adjust transfer case fluid level. 
b. Check for a restricted breather or breather tube, clear and check the fluid level and top 
off as needed. 
c. Check seal condition and replace worn, damaged, or defective seals. Check the fluid 
level and top off as necessary. 
2. Makes excessive noise while driving 
a. Check the fluid for the correct type of lubricant. Drain and refill using the recom- 
mended type and amount of lubricant. 
b. Check the fluid level. Top off the fluid using the recommended type and amount of lu- 
bricant. 
c. If the fluid level and type of lubricant meet specifications, check for internal wear or 
damage. Remove assembly and disassemble to inspect for worn, damaged, or defec- 
tive components. 
3. Jumps out of gear 
a. Stop vehicle and make sure the unit is fully engaged. 
b. Check for worn, loose or an improperly adjusted linkage. Replace and/or adjust link- 
age as necessary. 
c. Check for internal wear or damage. Remove assembly and disassemble to inspect for 
worn, damaged, or defective components. 
Rear Wheel, All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles 
1. Clunking noise from center of Vehicle shifting from forward to reverse 
a. Worn universal joint. Remove driveshaft and replace universal joint. 
2. Excessive vibration from center of vehicle when accelerating 
a. Worn universal joint. Remove driveshaft and replace universal joint.