1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE wiring

.
1-2 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Chitton’s Total Car Care manual for the 199M10
Mitsubishi Mirage, Galant and Diamante is intended
to help you learn more about the inner workings of
your vehicle while saving you money on its upkeep
and operation.
The beginning of the book will likely be referred to
the most, since that is where you will find information
for maintenance and tune-up. The other sections deal
with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Oper-
ating systems from engine through brakes are cov-
ered to the extent that the average do-it-yourselfer be-
comes mechanically involved. This book will not
explain such things as rebuilding a differential for the
simple reason that the expertise required and the in-
vestment in special tools make this task uneconomi-
cal. It will, however, give you detailed instructions to
help you change your own brake pads and shoes, re-
place spark plugs, and perform many more jobs that
can save you money, give you personal satisfaction
and help you avoid expensive problems.
A secondary purpose of this book is a reference for
owners who want to understand their vehicle and/or
their mechanics better. In this case, no tools at all are
required.
Before removing any bolts, read through the entire
procedure. This will give you the overall view of what
tools and supplies will be required. There is nothing
more frustrating than having to walk to the bus stop
on Monday morning because you were short one bolt
on Sunday afternoon. So read ahead and plan ahead.
Each operation should be approached logically and
all procedures thoroughly understood before attempt-
ing any work.
All sections contain adjustments, maintenance, re-
moval and installation procedures, and in some cases,
repair or overhaul procedures. When repair is not con-
sidered practical, we tell you how to remove the part
and then how to install the new or rebuilt replacement.
In this way, you at least save labor costs. “Backyard”
repair of some components is just not practical.
Many procedures in this book require you to “label
and disconnect. . ” a group of lines, hoses or wires.
Don’t be lulled into thinking you can remember where
everything goes-you won’t. If you hook up vacuum
or fuel lines incorrectly, the vehicle may run poorly, if
at all. If you hook up electrical wiring incorrectly, you
may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.
You don’t need to know the official or engineering
name for each hose or line. A piece of masking tape
on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to
assign your own label such as the letter A or a short name. As long as you remember your own code, the
lines can be reconnected by matching similar letters
or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve in
gasolrne or other fluids; if a component is to be
washed or cleaned, use another method of identifica-
tion. A permanent felt-tipped marker or a metal scribe
can be very handy for marking metal parts. Remove
any tape or paper labels after assembly.
It’s necessary to mention the difference between
maintenance and repair Maintenance includes rou-
tine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of
parts which show signs of normal wear Maintenance
compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies
that something has broken or is not working. A need
for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. Ex-
ample, draining and refilling the automatic transaxle
fluid is maintenance recommended by the manufac-
turer at specific mileage intervals. Failure to do this
can shorten the life of the transmission/transaxle, re-
quiring very expensive repairs. While no maintenance
program can prevent items from breaking or wearing
out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS
CHEAPER THAN REPAIR.
Two basic mechanrc’s rules should be mentioned
here. First, whenever the left side of the vehicle or en-
gine is referred to, it is meant to specify the drivers
side. Conversely, the right side of the vehicle means
the passengers side. Second, screws and bolts are
removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened
by turning clockwrse unless specifically noted.
Safety is always the most important rule. Con-
stantly be aware of the dangers involved in working
on an automobile and take the proper precautions.
See the informatron in this section regarding SER-
VICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY and the SAFETY
NOTICE on the acknowledgment page.
Pay attention to the instructions provided. There
are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work:
1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or
adjustment. When taking something apart or putting
it together, performing steps in the wrong order usu-
ally just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break
something. Read the entire procedure before begin-
ning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in
which the instructions say you should, even if you
can’t immedrately see a reason for it. When you’re
taking apart something that is very intricate, you
might want to draw a picture of how it looks when as-
sembled at one point in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. We will supply
exploded views whenever possible. When making
adjustments, perform them in the proper order. One
adjustment possibly will affect another.
2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is
more common for overtorquing to cause damage,
undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose
causing serious damage. Especially when dealing
with aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifi-
cations and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a
torque figure is not available, remember that if you
are using the right tool to perform the job, you will
probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener
tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight
that the tension you put on the wrench will be multi-
plied many times in actual force on what you are
tightening. A good example of how critical torque is
can be seen in the case of spark plug installation, es-
pecially where you are putting the plug into an alu-
minum cylinder head. Too little torque can fail to
crush the gasket, causing leakage of combustion
gases and consequent overheating of the plug and
engine parts. Too much torque can damage the
threads or distort the plug, changing the spark gap.
There are many commercial products available for
ensuring that fasteners won’t come loose, even if they
are not torqued just right (a very common brand is
Loctite? If you’re worried
about getting something
together tight enough to hold, but loose enough to
avoid mechanical damage during assembly, one of
these products might offer substantial insurance. Be-
fore choosing a threadlocking compound, read the
label on the package and make sure the product is
compatible with the materials, fluids, etc. involved.
3. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such
as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong
angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to
occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubri-
cate fasteners, then to start threading the bolt, spark
plug, etc. with your fingers If you encounter resis-
tance, unscrew the part and start over again at a dif-
ferent angle until it can be inserted and turned several
times without much effort. Keep in mind that many
parts, especially spark plugs, have tapered threads,
so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part
you’re threading to the proper angle. Don’t put a
wrench on the part until its been tightened a couple
of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resis-
tance, and the part has not seated fully, don’t force it.
Pull it back out to make sure it’s clean and threading
properly.
Be sure to take your time and be patient, and al-
ways plan ahead. Allow yourself ample time to per-
form repairs and maintenance You may find main-
taining your car a satisfying and enjoyable
experience.
b See Figures 1 thru 15
Naturally, without the proper tools and equipment
it is impossible to properly service your vehicle. It
would also be virtually impossible
to catalog every
tool that you would need to perform all of the opera-
tions in this book. Of course, It would be unwise for
the amateur to rush out and buy an expensive set of
tools on the theory that he/she may need one or more
of them at some time, The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering savings will
be far outweighed by frustration and
a good quality set of those tools that are used most mangled knuckles.
frequently Don’t be misled by the low cost of bargain Begin accumulating those tools that are used most
tools. It is far better to spend a little more for better frequently: those associated with routine maintenance
quality. Forged wrenches, 6 or 12-point sockets and and tune-up. In addition to the normal assortment of
fine tooth ratchets are by far preferable to their less screwdrivers and pliers, you should have the follow-
expensive counterparts. As any good mechanic can ing tools:
tell you, there are few worse experiences than trying
l Wrenches/sockets and combination open
to work on a vehicle with bad tools. Your monetary end/box end wrenches in sizes from %-% in. or

I-4 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 12 A screw-in type compression gauge- Fig. 13 A vacuum/pressure tester is neces-
is recommended for compression testing sary for many testing procedures
Fig. 14 Most modern automotive multime-
ters incorporate many helpful features
your workbench. Some useful household items are: a
large turkey baster or siphon, empty coffee cans and
ice trays (to store parts), ball of twine, electrical tape
for wiring, small rolls of colored tape for tagging lines
or hoses, markers and pens, a note pad, golf tees (for
plugging vacuum lines), metal coat hangers or a roll
of mechanic’s wire (to hold things out of the way),
dental pick or similar long, pointed probe, a strong
magnet, and a small mirror (to see into recesses and
under manifolds).
A more advanced set of tools, suitable for tune-up
work, can be drawn up easily. While the tools are
lmvl Fig. 15 Proper information is vital, so at
ways have a Chiiton Total Car Care manua
handy
l Feeler aauoes for valve adiustment
* Timing-light.
The choice of a timing fight should be made
carefully. A light which works on the DC current
supplied by the vehicle’s battery is the best choice;
it should have a xenon tube for brightness. On any
vehicle with an electronic ignition system, a timing
light with an inductive pickup that clamps around
the No. 1 spark plug cable is preferred.
In addition to these basic tools, there are several
other tools and gauges you may find useful. These
include:
l Compression gauge. The screw-in type is
slower to use, but eliminates the possibility of a
fauliy reading due to escaping pressure.
l Manifold vacuum gauge. l 12V test light. l A combination volt/ohmmeter l induction Ammeter. This is used for determin-
ing whether or not there is current in a wire. These
are handy for use if a wire is broken somewhere in a
wiring harness.
As a final note, vou will orobablv find a torque
wrench necessary for all but the most basic work.
The beam type models are perfectly adequate, al-
though the newer click types (breakaway) are easier
to use. The click type torque wrenches tend to be
more expensive. Also keep in mind that all types of
torque wrenches should be periodically checked
and/or recalibrated. You will have to decide for your-
self which better fits your pocketbook, and purpose.
ilightly more sophisticated, they need not be outra-
feously expensive. There are several inexpensive
achldwell meters on the market that are every bit as
Toad for the average mechanic as a professional
nodel. Just be sure that it goes to a least 1200-1500
pm on the tach scale and that it works on 4,6 and 8-
:ylinder engines. The key to these purchases is to
nake them with an eye towards adaptability and wide
ange. A basic list of tune-up tools could include:
l Tach/dwell meter. l Spark plug wrench and gapping tool. Normally, the use of special factory tools is
avoided for repair procedures, since these are not
readily available for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
When it is possible to perform the job with more
commonly available tools, it will be pointed out, but
occasionally, a special tool was designed to perform
a specific function and should be used. Before sub-
stituting another tool, you should be convinced that
neither your safety nor the performance of the vehicle
will be compromised.
Special tools can usually be purchased from an
automotive parts store or from your dealer. In some
cases special tools may be available directly from the
tool manufacturer.
p See Figures 16, 17, 16, and 19
It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the haz-
ards involved with automotive maintenance and ser-
vice, but care and common sense will prevent most
accidents.
The rules of safety for mechanics range from “don’t
smoke around gasoline,” to “use the proper tool(s) for
the job.” The trick to avoiding injuries is to develop
safe work habits and to take every possible precaution.
Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit
l handy.
Do wear safety glasses or goggles when cut- l ting, drilling, grinding or prying, even if you have
20-20 vision. If you wear glasses for the sake of vi-
sion, wear safety goggles over your regular glasses.
l Do shield your eyes whenever you work around
the battery. Batteries contain sulfuric acid. In case of
contact with the eyes or skin, flush the area with water
or a mixture of water and baking soda, then seek im-
mediate medical attention.
l Do use safety stands (jackstands) for any un-
dervehicle service. Jacks are for raising vehicles;
jackstands are for making sure the vehicle stays
raised until you want it to come down. Whenever the
vehicle is raised, block the wheels remaining on the
ground and set the parking brake.
l Do use adequate ventilation when working
with any chemicals or hazardous materials, Like car-
bon monoxide, the asbestos dust resulting from
some brake lining wear can be hazardous in suffi-
cient quantities.
l Do disconnect the negative battery cable when
working on the electrical system. The secondary ig- nition system contains EXTREMELY HIGH VOLT-
AGE. In some cases it can even exceed 50,000 volts.
l Do follow manufacturer’s directions whenever
working with potentially hazardous materials. Most
chemicals and fluids are poisonous if taken inter-
nally.
l Do properly maintain your tools. Loose ham-
merheads, mushroomed punches and chisels, frayed
or poorly grounded electrical cords, excessively
worn screwdrivers, spread wrenches (open end),
cracked sockets, slipping ratchets, or faulty droplight
sockets can cause accidents.
* Likewise, keep your tools clean; a greasy
wrench can slip off a bolt head, ruining the bolt and
often harming your knuckles in the process.
l Do use the proper size and type of tool for the
job at hand. Do select a wrench or socket that fits the
nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit straight,
not cocked.

l-24 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
b%slZl2 Fig. 97 A variety of tools and gauges are
needed for spark plug service tm2903 Fig. 98 Checking the spark plug @au with a tccs2904 feeler gauge. - Fig. 99 Adjusting the spark plug gap
ig. 100 If the standard plug Is in good con-
ftlon, the electrode may be filed flat- the two ends. Take the length and multiply it by 6,000
to achieve the maximum resistance allowable in each
wire, resistance should not exceed this value. If resis-
tance does exceed this value, replace the wire.
*Whenever the high tension wires are re- ’
moved from the plugs, coil, or distributor,
silicone grease must be applied to the boot
before reconnection. Coat the entire Interior
surface with a suitable silicone grease.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
# See Figures 90,103 and 104
1. Remove the air cleaner inlet tube.
2. If eouiooed, remove the center cover from the
WARNING: do not file platinum plugs
valve covei.
3. Label each spark plug wire and make a note of
should go through easily, while the larger one its routing.
I’ shouldn’t go through at all. Wire gapping tools usu-
ally have a bending tool attached. Use that to adjust
the side electrode until the proper distance is ob-
tained. Absolutely never attempt to bend the center
electrode. Also, be careful not to bend the side elec- *Don’t rely on wiring diagrams or sketches
for spark plug wire routing. Improper
arrangement of spark plug wires will induce
voltage between wires, causing misfiring
and surging. Be careful to arrange spark plug
wires properly.
4. Starting with the longest wire, disconnect the
spark plug wire from the spark plug and then from
the coil pack or distributor cap.
To install:
5. If replacing the spark plug wires, match the olc
wire with an appropriately sized wire in the new set.
6. Lubricate the boots and terminals with dielec-
tric grease and install the wire on the coil pack. Make
sure the wire snaps into place.
a 7. Route the wire in the exact path as the original
nd connect the wire to the spark plug.
8. Repeat the process for each remaining wire,
iorking from the longest wire to the shortest.
9. Install the air cleaner inlet tube.
trode too far or too often as it may weaken and break
off within the engine, requiring removal of the cylin-
der head to retrieve it.
TESTING
# See Figures 191 and 102
At every tune-up/inspection, visually check the
spark plug cables for burns cuts, or breaks in the in-
sulation. Check the boots and the nipples on the dis-
tributor cap and/or coil. Replace any damaged wiring.
Every 50,000 miles (80,000 km) or 60 months, the
resistance of the wires should be checked with an
ohmmeter. Wires with excessive resistance will cause
misfiring, and may make the engine difficult to start in
damp weather.
To check resistance, an ohmmeter should be used ’
on each wire to test resistance between the end con-
nectors. Remove and install/replace the wires in or- ’
der, one-by-one.
Resistance on these wires should be 4,000-6,000
ohms per foot. To properly measure this, remove the
wires from the plugs and the coil pack. Do not pierce
any ignition wire for any reason. Measure only from Fig. 103 Remove the spark plug wires from
tcG1009 Fig. 102 Checking individual plug wire re-
sistance with a digital ohmmeter
Fig. 104 Remove the plug wires from the
wire dividers

ENGINEELECTRICAL 2-7
3. Detach the electrical connectors for the COIL
4. Remove the retaining screws and coil from en-
gine.
5. Installation is the reverse of the removal proce-
dure.
1997-00 1.81 and 1994-00 2.4L Engines
) See Figure 31
1, Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Detach the electrical connector(s) for the
coil(s).
3. Remove the spark plug wire(s) to the compan-
ion cylinder(s).
4 Remove the coil retaining bolts and lift the coil
from the cylinder head.
5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.
3.OL DOHC Engine
# See Figure 32
1, Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the intake manifold plenum (upper in-
take mamfold) Refer to Section 3.
3. Tag and remove the spark plug wires from the
ignition coil by gripping the boot and not the cable.
4 Detach the electrical connectors for the coil.
5. Remove the retaining screws and coil from en-
gine.
6. Installation is the reverse of the removal proce-
dure.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1 AL, 2.01 DOHC, and 2.4L DOHC Engines
) See Figure 30
1 lgnltlo” co,,
2 sparlt plug case
3 Spark plug
4 Imltlon fatlure semm
93152g1:
Fig. 31 Ignition system component loca,
iions-1997-00 1.8L engine shown
1999-00 2.4L engine similar
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Detach the electrical connectors for the transis-
tor.
3. Remove the retaining screws and remove the
transistor from engine.
4. Installation is the reverse of the removal proce-
dure.
1.8L and 1999-00 2.4L Engines
The power transistor (ignition module) is an inte-
gral part of the powertrain control module.
3.OL DOHC Engine
# See Figure 32
9315291 Fig. 32 Ignition system component loca,
tions-3.01 DOHC engine
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the intake manifold plenum (upper in-
take manifold). Refer to Section 3.
3 Detach the electrical connectors for the transis-
tor.
4. Remove the retaining screws and remove the
transistor from engine.
5. Installation is the reverse of the removal proce-
dure.
For procedures on the positlon sensors, please re-
fer to Section 4 in this manual.
# See Figures 33 thru 40
*To avoid confusion, remove and tag the
spark plug wires one at a time, for replace-
ment.
If a distributor is not keyed for installation with
only one orientation, it could have been removed pre-
viously and rewired. The resultant wiring would hold
the correct firing order, but could change the relative
placement of the plug towers in relation to the en-
gine. For this reason it is imperative that you label all
wires before disconnecting any of them. Also, before
removal, compare the current wiring with the accom-
panying illustrations. If the current wiring does not
match, make notes in your book to reflect how your
engine is wired.
ujamm-p:@
79233921
Fig. 33 1.5L (4615) and 1993-96 1.81
(4693) engines
Firing order: l-3-4-2
Distributor rotation: Counterclockwise 7923392: :ig. 34 2.OL (4663) SOHC engine
‘iring order: l-3-4-2
Distributor rotation: Clockwise

ENGlNEELECTRldAL 2-9
TESTING
Voltage Test able for use by customers. An alternator
bench test is the most definitive way to de-
termine the condition of your alternator.
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
1. Make sure the engine is OFF, and turn the 1.51,1.61, 1.6L, 2.OL and 2.4L Engines
headlights on for 15-20 seconds to remove any sur-
face charge from the battery. , See Figures 4, thru 48
2. Using a DVOM set to volts DC, probe across
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
the battery terminals.
3. Measure the battery voltage. 2. Remove the left side cover panel under the
vehicle.
4. Write down the voltage reading and proceed to
3. On turbocharaed Galant models, remove the
the next test.
air intake hose. -
No-load Test
1. Connect a tachometer to the engine. 4. Remove the drive belts.
5. Remove the water pump pulleys.
6. Remove the alternator upper bracket/brace.
Ensure that the transmission
is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel
is optional and an added safety measure.
2. Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower mo-
tor, wipers, etc.)
3. Start the engine and increase engine speed to
approximately 1500 rpm.
4. Measure the voltage reading at the battery with
the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage
should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more
than 2.5 volts.
5. If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5
volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage
goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is over-
* 7. On the 1.6L engine remove the battery, wind-
shield washer reservoir and battery tray.
8. On the 1.6L engine, remove the attaching
bolts at the top of the radiator and lift up the radiator.
Do not disconnect the radiator hoses.
9. Detach the alternator wiring connectors.
10. Remove the alternator mounting bolts and re-
move the alternator.
To install:
11. Position the alternator on the lower mountina
fixture and install the lower mounting bolt and nut. U
Tighten nut just enough to allow for movement of the
alternator.
12. On the 1.6L engine, lower the radiator and re-
install the upper attaching bolts.
13. On the 1.6L engine, install the battery, wind-
shield washer reservoir and battery tray.
/ tery cable to the alternator . , . 93152p12 Fig 42 Remove the nut retaining the bat-
cnargmg.
*Usually under and overcharging is‘caused
by a defective alternator, or its related parts
(regulator), and replacement will fix the
problem; however, faulty wiring and other
problems can
cause the charging system to
malfunction. Further testing, which is not
covered by this book, will reveal the exact
component failure. Many automotive parts
stores have alternator bench testers avaii-
able for use by customers. An alternator
bench test is the most definitive way to de-
termine the condition of your alternator.
6. If the voltage is within specifications, proceeU
to the next test.
Load Test
1. With the engine running, turn on the blower
motor and the hioh beams (or other electrical acces-
sories to place aioad on the charging system). Fig. 44 Remove the nut retaining the
then remove the batte harness to the alternator and remov
,
2. Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
3. Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
4. The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts
from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet
specifications, the charging system is malfunction-
ing.
*Usually under and overcharging is caused
by a defective alternator, or its related parts
(regulator), and replacement will fix the
problem; however, faulty wiring and other
problems can cause the charging system to
malfunction. Further testing, which is not
covered by this book, will reveal the exact
component failure. Many automotive parts
stores have alternator bench testers avaii-
93152p17 en remove the pivot bolt from

.
2-10 ENGINEELECTRICAL 1
2. Disconnect and remove the air intake hose.
3. Loosen the tensioner pulley and remove the
alternator drive belt.
4. On California models, remove the rear bank
converter assembly.
5. Remove the engine roll stopper stay bracket
assembly.
6. On the 3.OL SDHC engine, disconneCt the
EGR temperature sensor wire and remove the EGR
pipe assembly.
7. On the 3.OL SOHC engine, remove the intake
plenum stay bracket assembly.
8. Detach the alternator wiring harness connec-
tors.
Fig, 47 Remove the alternator adjusting bolt
. a a 9. Remove the alternator upper and lower
mounting bolts.
10. From beneath the vehicle, remove the alterna-‘
I^”
._. To install:
11. Position the alternator on the lower mountino
fixture. Install and tighten the mounting bolt and nu<
to M-18 ft. Ibs. (20-25 Nm).
12. Connect the alternator wiring harness.
13. On the 3.OL SOHC engine, install the intake
plenum stay bracket and tighten the mounting bolt to
13 ft. Ibs. (18 Nm).
14. On the 3.OL SOHC engine, install the EGR
pipe and tighten the fitting connections to 43 ft. Ibs.
(60 Nm).
93152015
12. Position the alternator on the mour
sting hmrkd lnrtnll rmr( tinhtnn thn mm dim L VIUVI,VL. lllcllUll Ully llylllvll LltU ,,tvuln,,ly volt and nut
to 17 ft. Ibs. (24 Nm).
13. Reinstall the drive belt and adjust the ten-
pinnor fmtil the nmnor hdt toncinn ic art-:--~
15. On the 3.OL SOHC enoine. connect the EGR
- temperature sensor wire.
16. Connect the engine roll stopper stay and
tighten the mountina bolt to 35 ft. Ibs. (45 Nm) and
the nut to 36-43 ft. Tbs. (50-60 Nm).
’
17. Install the rear converter assembly, if re- Fia. 49 Alternator mountinu-3.0L DOHC enoine
14. Install the alternator upper bracket/brace and
connect the alternator electrical harness.
15. Install the water pump pulleys.
16.
Install the drive belts and adjust to the proper moved.
18. Reinstall the drive belt and adjust the ten-
sioner until the proper belt tension is achieved.
19. Connect the air intake hose.
20. Connect the neoativa hatterv rzahle and check -_. -_. __. _. _=-__
_ _-.._. , ___ _ _. _ _ _ _
the charoina system for orooer ooeration. - - _ -rr- -- - I Ull” Yvll air intake hose.
denser fan.
18.
Install the left side cover panel unde
r the ve-
15. Install the headlamp washer reservoir tank.
hid@ zx ran~kwl 1IIVI” YY ‘“~“““Y.
16. Connect the negative battery cable and check
19. Connect the negative battery cable and check
the charging svstem for proper operation.
-,-.- for proper operation. REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
3.OL SOHC n C, n---I_--
3.OL DOHC Engine
i fhs Itin** tension.
17. On turbocharged Galant models, install the
b See Figure 49
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the headlamp washer reservoir tank.
3.
Remove the condenser fan and upper radiator
insulator.
4.
Loosen the tensioner pulley and remove the
alternator drive belt. and J.DL engines
, - , lyures 50 and 51
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. The voltage regulator on models covered by this
manual is an integral part of the alternator. If the reg-
ulator is defective, replace the alternator assembly.
5. Remove the alternator upper and lower
mounting bolts.
6. Remove the alternator support bracket
mn~lntinn h&c
_ _ _ _ -. ._ ,_._
--TT-.. -.--..-. ..-...
the vehicle.
8. Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
Q Romnm thn slternatnr frnm thn mhirln V. llYlll”“Y LI1”“I~Y1IIU,“I II”,,, Lll” ,“,,,“,“. To install:
10.
Install the alternator to the vehicle and con-
nect the wiring harness. :z
E$llaf 3EG RtEWtiW~-~ 11
Install the alternatnr wnnnrt hrxket tn thp .._. -.. .._ - .._..._._.
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specifications.

ENGINE ELECTRICAL 2-11
l.unVeMlil(GSflWtWJ
2.Gwwator harness con- connectk,,,
3. Engme OS, level d,pst,&
4 Generator
Fig. 51 Alternator mounting -3.51 engine
The starting system includes the battery, starter
motor, solenoid, ignition switch, circuit protection
and wiring connecting the components. An inhibitor
switch located in the park/neutral safety switch or
Transmission Range (TR) sensor is included in the
starting system to prevent the vehicle from being
started with the vehicle in gear.
When the ignition key is turned to the START po-
sition, current flows and energizes the starters sole-
noid coil. The solenoid plunger and clutch shift lever
are activated and the clutch pinion engages the ring
gear on the flywheel. The switch contacts close and
the starter cranks the engine until it starts.
To prevent damage caused by excessive starter ar-
mature rotation when the engine starts, the starter in-
corporates an over-running clutch in the pinion gear. 2. Connect a voltmeter between the positive ter-
minal of the battery and the starter B+ circuit.
3. Turn the ignition key to the START position
and note the voltage on the meter.
4. If voltage reads 0.5 volts or more, there is high
resistance in the starter cables or the cable ground,
repair as necessary. If the voltage reading is ok pro-
teed to the next step.
5. Connect a voltmeter between the positive ter-
minal of the battery and the starter M circuit,
6. Turn the ignition key to the START position
and note the voltage on the meter.
7. If voltage reads 0.5 volts or more, there is high
resistance in the starter. Repair or replace the starter
as necessary.
*Many automotive parts stores have starter
bench testers available for use by customers.
A starter bench test is the most definitive
way to determine the condition of your
starter. 3. Remove the resonator retaining nuts and re-
move the air intake hose and resonator assembly as
required.
rllse care when removing the air cleaner
cover because the air-flow sensor is attached
and is a sensitive component.
4. If equipped with Active-ECS suspension, re-
move the air compressor as follows:
a. Detach the two electrical connectors, from
the compressor.
b. Disconnect the air line at the compressor.
c. Remove the three mounting bolts, securing
the compressor to the chassis.
5. Raise the vehicle and support safely.
6. Remove the engine undercover.
7. Remove the heat shield from beneath the in-
take manifold on the 1.5L engine.
8. If necessary, detach the speedometer cable
connector at the transaxle end.
9. Detach the starter motor electrical connac-
TESTING
Voltage Drop Test
*The battery must be in good condition and
fully charged prior to performing this test. REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
# See Figures 52 and 53
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Detach the air-flow sensor assembly connec-
tor and remove the breather hose.
1. Disable the ignition system by unplugging the
coil pack. Verify that the vehicle will not start. tions.
10. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts and
remove the starter.
11. The installation is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Tighten the starter mounting bolts to 22 ft.
Ibs. (31 Nm).
12. Connect the negative battery cable and check
the starter for proper operation.
9315zp19 Fig. 53 Location of the two starter retaining bolts

.
2-12 ENGINEELECTRICAL
*This section describes the operating prina
ciples of sending units, warning lights and
gauges. Sensors which provide information
to the Enafne Control Unit (ECU) or Electronic
or Power&in Control Module (FCM/PCM) are
covered in Section 4 of this manual.
Instrument panels contain a number of indicating
devices (gauges and warning lights). These devices
are composed of two separate components. One is
the sending unit, mounted on the engine or other re-
mote part of the vehicle, and the other is the actual
gauge or light in the instrument panel.
Several types of sending units exist, however most
can be characterized as being either a pressure type
or a resistance type. Pressure type sending units
convert liquid pressure into an electrical signal which
is sent to the gauge. Resistance type sending units
are most often used to measure temperature and use
variable resistance to control the current flow back to
the indicatinq device. Both types of sendinq units are
connected inseries by a wimto the batteryithiough
the ignition switch). When the ignition is turned ON,
current flows from the battery through the indicating
device and on to the sending unit.
89572$43 Fig. 54 Place the sending unit in water and
measure the resistance
2. Disconnect the sending unit wiring harness
and remove the coolant temperature sending unit.
3. Place the sending unit tip in a pan of warm wa-
ter. Use a thermometer to measure the water tempera-
tl KP
L”,“.
4. Measure the resistance across the sending uni
terminals while the sending unit is in the water.
5. Note the ohm reading and compare to the fol-
lowing specifications: i, 56, 57, and 56
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Position a suitable drain pan under the radia-
tor.
3. Drain the engine coolant a level below the
coolant temperature sending unit.
4. Disconnect the sending unit wiring harness,
then remove the coolant temperature sending unit
from the engine.
To install:
5. Coat the sending unit threads with a suitable
thread sealant.
6. Install the engine coolant temperature gauge
sending unit into the bore in the engine and tighten
to 7-8 ft. Ibs. (10-12 Nm).
7. Attach the electrical harness connector to the
sendina unit.
8. fill the cooling system to the proper level.
:onnect the negative battery cable.
l Water temperature of 68°F (2O”C)-
2.21-2.69 kilo-ohms resistance
l Water temperature of 158°F (7O’Ck
90.5-117.5 ohms resistance
TESTING l Water temperature of 176°F (8O”C)-
264-328 ohms resistance.
The coolant temperature sendina unit is used to
operate the temperature gauge. Donot confuse this
sending unit with the other switches or sensors used
to signal the engine control unit or air conditioning
regarding temperature of the coolant. Usually, these
other units are mounted near the coolant temoerature
sensor used for engine control. If the resistance is not approximately accurate for
the temperature, the sending unit must be replaced.
Gauge Check
1. Detach the engine coolant gauge sending unit
electrical connector.
2. Connect a suitable test liaht (12V-3.4W) be-
tween the harness side connector and the around.
I
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
4. Check the condition of the test light and gauge
as follows:
a. If all components are operating properly,
the test light should illuminate and the gauge
needle should move.
b. If the test light is illuminated and the
gauge needle does not move, replace the coolant
temperature gauge.
c. If the test light is illuminated and the
gauge needle does not move, check the fuse for
a broken wire, or resistance between the gauge
terminals
d. If the test light is not illuminated and the
gauge is not moving, check, then replace the
wiring harness, if necessar!y.
Sender Check
p See Figure 64
1. Drain the engine coolant to a level below the
coolant temperature sending unit Fig. 55 Detach the connector from the
coolant temperature sending unit
'ESTING
tauga Check
See Ftgure 69