1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE low oil pressure

1-6 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 16 Screwdrivers should be kept in good
:ondition to prevent injury or damage which
:ould result it the blade slips from the screw
0
0
PP tccs1022 Fig. 16 Using the correct size wrench will
help prevent the possibility of rounding off
a nut
7
lwo.WIRE CouDuClOR TMREE-WIRE CONO”CTOI
MIRD WIRE GROUNDING GROUNDING TNRU
THE CASE A CmxlIT
.
i$Y$$pQ
p-+
TNHREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR THREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR
ONE WIRE TO 4 GROUND GROUNOlNG TMRU
AN ADAPTER PLUG
tccm21
Fig. 17 Power tools should always be prop-
erly grounded
Fig. 19 NEVER work under a vehicle unless it
is supported using safety stands (jackstands)
l Do, when possible, pull on a wrench handle l Do set the parking brake and block the drive
rather than push on it, and adjust your stance to pre-
vent a fall. wheels if the work requires a running engine.
l Do be sure that adjustable wrenches are
tightly closed on the nut or bolt and pulled so that
the force is on the side of the fixed jaw.
l Do strike squarely with a hammer; avoid glanc-
ing blows. l Don’t run the engine in a garage or anywhere
else without proper ventilation-EVER! Carbon monoxide is poisonous; it takes a long time to leave
the human body and you can build up a deadly sup-
ply of it in your system by simply breathing in a !ittle
every day. You may not realize you are slowly poi-
soning yourself. Always use power vents, windows,
fans and/or open the garage door.
l Don’t work around moving parts while wearing
loose clothing. Short sleeves are much safer than
long, loose sleeves. Hard-toed shoes with neoprene
soles protect your toes and give a better grip on slip-
pery surfaces. Jewelry such as watches, fancy belt
buckles, beads or body adornment of any kind is not
safe working around a vehicle. Long hair should be
tied back under a hat or cap.
l Don’t use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or bump
can drive a screwdriver deep into your body. Even a
rag hanging from your back pocket can wrap around
a spinning shaft or fan.
l Don’t smoke when working around gasoline,
cleaning solvent or other flammable material.
l Don’t smoke when workrng around the battery.
When the battery is being charged, it gives off explo-
sive hydrogen gas.
l Don’t use gasoline to wash your hands; there
are excellent soaps available. Gasoline contains dan-
gerous additives which can enter the body through a
cut or through your pores. Gasoline also removes all
the natural oils from the skin so that bone dry hands
will suck up oil and grease.
l Don’t service the air conditioning system un-
less you are equipped with the necessary tools and
trainmg. When liquid or compressed gas refrigerant
is released to atmospheric pressure it will absorb
heat from whatever it contacts. This will chill or freeze
anything it touches.
l Don’t use screwdrivers for anything other than
driving screws! A screwdriver used as an prying tool
can snap when you least expect it, causing injuries.
At the very least, you’ll ruin a good screwdriver.
. Don’t use an emergency jack (that little ratchet,
scissors, or pantograph jack supplied with the vehi-
cle) for anything other than changing a flat! These
jacks are only Intended for emergency use out on the
road; they are NOT designed as a maintenance tool. If
you are serious about mamtaining your vehicle your-
self, invest in a hydraulic floor jack of at least a 1%
ton capacity, and at least two sturdy jackstands.
sion which can increase the torque necessary to proper installation and safe operation of the vehicle
achieve the desired clamp load for which that fastener afterwards.
was originally selected. Additionally, be sure that the Thread gauges are available to help measure a bolt
p See Figures 20, 21, 22, and 23 driver surface of the fastener has not been compro- or stud’s thread. Most automotive and hardware
mised by rounding or other damage. In some cases a stores keep gauges available to help you select the
Although there are a great variety of fasteners found driver surface may become only partially rounded, al- proper size. In a pinch, you can use another nut or
in the modern car or truck, the most commonly used lowing the driver to catch in only one direction. In bolt for a thread gauge. If the bolt you are replacing is
retainer is the threaded fastener (nuts, bolts, screws, many of these occurrences, a fastener may be in- not too badly damaged, you can select a match by
studs, etc.). Most threaded retainers may be reused, stalled and tightened, but the driver would not be able finding another bolt which will thread in its place. If
provided that they are not damaged in use or during to grip and loosen the fastener again. (This could lead you find a nut which threads properly onto the dam-
the repair. Some retainers (such as stretch bolts or J to frustration down the line should that component aged bolt, then use that nut to help select the replace-
torque prevailing nuts) are designed to deform when ever need to be disassembled again). ment bolt If however, the bolt you are replacing is so
tightened or in use and should not be reinstalled. If you must replace a fastener, whether due to de- badly damaged (broken or drilled out) that its threads
Whenever possible, we will note any special re- sign or damage, you must ALWAYS be sure to use cannot be used as a gauge, you might start by look-
tainers which should be replaced during a procedure. the proper replacement In all cases, a retainer of the ing for another bolt (from the same assembly or a
But you should always inspect the condition of a re- same design, material and strength should be used. similar location on your vehicle) which will thread
tainer when It is removed and replace any that show Markings on the heads of most bolts will help deter- into the damaged bolt’s mounting. If so, the other bolt
signs of damage. Check all threads for rust or corro- mine the proper strength of the fastener. The same
can be used to select a nut; the nut can then be used
material, thread and pitch must be selected to assure
to select the replacement bolt.

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-21
IWSIZXJ FM. 83 A hose clamn that is taa tiaht can
Fig. 82 The cracks developing along this
hose are a result of age-related hardening caise older hoses td separate and ‘iear on
either side of the clamp
lCCS1221 Fig. 84 A soft spongy hose (identifiable by
1 the swollen section) will eventually burst
and should be replaced
IEMOVAL &,INSTALLATION '
1. Remove the radiator pressure cap. her of the sorina tension tvoe (which reouire oliers
3 squeeze the 6bs and loosenj or of the’screw ten-
ion type (which require screw or hex drivers to
oosen). Pull the clamps back on the hose away from
he connection. Never remove the pressure cap while the en-
gine is running, or personal injury from
scalding hot coolant or steam may result. If
possible, wait until the engine has cooled to
remove the pressure cap. If this is not possi-
ble, wrap a thick cloth around the pressure
cap and turn it slowly to the stop. Step back
while the pressure is released from the cool-
ing system. When you are sure all the pres-
sure has been released, use the cloth to turn
and remove the cao.
2. Position a clean container under the radiator
and/or engine draincock or plug, then open the drain
and allow the cooling system to drain to an appropri-
ate level. For some upper hoses, only a little coolant
must be drained. To remove hoses positioned lower
on the engine, such as a lower radiator hose, the en-
tire cooling system must be emptied.
When draining coolant, keep in mind that
cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene gly-
col antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink
any that is left in an uncovered container or
in puddles on the ground. This will prove fa-
tal in sufficient quantity. Always drain
coolant into a sealable container. Coolant
may be reused unless it is contaminated or
several years old. 9. Close the radiator or engine drains and prop-
erly refill the cooling system with the clean drained
engine coolant or a suitable mixture of ethylene gly-
cot coolant and water.
10. If available, install a pressure tester and check
for leaks. If a pressure tester is not available, run the
engine until normal operating temperature is reached
(allowing the system to naturally pressurize), then
check for leaks.
If you are checking for leaks with the system
at normal operating temperature, BE EX-
TREMELY CAREFUL not to touch any moving
or hot engine parts. Once temperature has
been reached. shut the enaine OFF. and
Fig. 85 Hoses are likely to deteriorate from
the inside if the cooling system is not peri-
odically flushed check for leaks around the-hose fittings and
connections which were removed earlier.
INSPECTION
b See Figures 88 and 87
The CV (Constant Velocity) boots should be
checked for damage each time the oil is changed and
any other time the vehicle is raised for service. These
boots keep water, grime, dirt and other damaging
matter from entering the CV-joints. Any of these
could cause early CV-joint failure which can be ex-
pensive to repair. Heavy grease thrown around the in-
side of the front wheel(s) and on the brake
caliper/drum can be an indication of a torn boot.
Thorouahlv check the boots for missina clamos and 3. Loosen the hose clamps at each end of the
rose requiring replacement. Clamps are usually ei-
4. Twist, pull and slide the hose off the fitting,
sking care not to damage the neck of the component
rom which the hose is being removed.
*If the hose is stuck at the connection, do
lot try to insert a screwdriver or other sharp
ool under the hose end in an eff art to free it,
IS the connection and/or hose may become
lamaged. Heater connections especially
nay be easily damaged by such a procedure.
f the hose is to be replaced, use a single-
!dged razor blade to make a slice along the
lortion of the hose which is stuck on the con-
section, perpendicular to the end of the
lose. 00 not cut deep so as to prevent dam-
aging the connection. The hose can then be
keeled from the connection and discarded. Fig. 86 CV-boots must be inspected period-
5.. Clean both hose mounting connections. In-
,pect the condition of the hose clamps and replace
hem, if necessary.
To install:
6. Dip the ends of the new hose into clean en-
fine coolant to ease installation.
7. Slide the clamps over the replacement hose,
hen slide the hose ends over the connections into
rosition.
8. Position and secure the clamps at least l/d in.
6.35mm) from the ends of the hose. Make sure they
Ire located beyond the raised bead of the connector.

l-28 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
may result in skin or eye irritation or frostbite. Al- formed to help maintain the efficiency of the vehicle’s
though low in toxicity (due to chemical stability), in- A/C system. For preventive maintenance, perform the
The idle speed is factory set and usually no ad- halation of concentrated refrigerant fumes is danger- following:
justments are ever necessary. If an adjustment be- ous and can result in death; cases of fatal cardiac
l The easiest and most important preventive
comes necessary, first check that the spark plugs, in- arrhythmia have been reported in people accidentally maintenance for your A/C system is to be sure that it
jectors, idle air control servo and compression subjected to high levels of refrigerant. Some early is used on a regular basis. Running the system for
pressure are all normal. symptoms include loss of concentration and drowsi- five minutes each month (no matter what the season)
Data from various sensors and switches are used ness. + will help ensure that the seals and all internal compo-
by the ECU to determine the proper fuel/air mixture
for optimal engine performance. cGeneraiiy, the limit for exposure is lower nents remain lubricated.
for R-134a than it is for R-12. Exceptional *Some newer vehicles automatically oper-
care must be practiced when handling R- ate the A/C system compressor whenever the
134a. windshield defroster is activated. When run-
Also, refrigerants can decompose at high tempera- ning, the compressor lubricates the A/C sys
tures (near gas heaters or open flame), which may re- tern components; therefore, the A/C system
SYSTEM SERVICE& REPAIR suit in hydrofluoric acid, hydrochloric acid and phos- would not need to be operated each month.
gene (a fatal nerve gas). * In order to prevent heater core freeze-up during
R-12 refrigerant can damage the environment be- A/C operation, it is necessary to maintain proper an-
cause it is a Chlorofluorocarbon (CFC), which has tifreeze protection. Use a hand-held coolant tester
been proven to add to ozone layer depletion, leading (hydrometer) to periodically check the condition of
to increasing levels of UV radiation. UV radiation has the antifreeze in your engine’s cooling system.
been linked with an increase in skin cancer, suppres-
sion of the human immune system, an increase in *Antifreeze should not be used longer than
cataracts, damage to crops, damage to aquatic organ- the manufacturer specifies.
isms, an increase in ground-level ozone, and in- . For efficient operation of an air conditioned ve-
creased global warming. hicle’s cooling system, the radiator cap should have a
R-134a refrigerant is a greenhouse gas which, if holding pressure which meets manufacturers specifi-
allowed to vent into the atmosphere, will contribute to cations. A cap which fails to hold these pressures
global warming (the Greenhouse Effect). should be replaced.
It is usually more economically feasible to have a
l Any obstruction of or damage to the condenser
certified MVAC automotive technician perform A/C configuration will restrict air flow which is essential
system service on your vehicle. Some possible rea- to its efficient operation. It is, therefore, a good rule
sons for this are as follows: to keep this unit clean and in proper physical shape.
l While it is illegal to service an A/C system
without the proper equipment, the home mechanic ti See Figure 122
*it is recommended that the A/C svstem be
serviced by an EPA Section 609 cehified au-
tomotivetechnicfan utilizing a refrigerant re-
covery/recycling machfne.
The do-it-yourselfer should not service his/her
own vehicle’s A/C system for many reasons, includ-
ing legal concerns, personal injury, environmental
damage and cost. The following are some of the rea-
sons why you may decide not to service your own ve-
hicle’s A/C system.
According to the U.S. Clean Air Act, it is a federal
crime to service or repair (involving the refrigerant) a
Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC) system for
money without being EPA certified. It is also illegal to
vent R-12 and R-134a refrigerants into the atmos-
phere. Selling or distributing A/C system refrigerant
(in a container which contains less than 20 pounds oi
refrigerant) to any person who is not EPA 609 certi-
fied is also not allowed by law.
State and/or local laws may be more strict than the
federal regulations, so be sure to check with your
state and/or local authorities for further information.
For further federal information on the legality of ser-
vicing your AK system, call the EPA Stratospheric
Ozone Hotline.
*Federal law dictates that a fine of up to
$25,000 may be levied on people convicted
of venting refrigerant into the atmosphere.
Additionally, the EPA may pay up to $10,000
for information or services leading to a crimf
nai conviction of the violation of these laws.
When servicing an A/C system you run the risk of
handling or coming in contact with refrigerant, which
Fig. 122 A label with information concern-
ing the A/C system is typically located in the
engine compartment
f would haveto purchase an expensive refrigerant re-
covery/recycling machine to service his/her own ve-
hicle.
l Since only a certified person may purchase re-
frigerant-according to the Clean Air Act, there are
specific restrictions on selling or distributing A/C
system refrigerant-it is legally impossible (unless
certified) for the home mechanic to service his/her
own vehicle. Procuring refrigerant in an illegal fash-
ion exposes one to the risk of paying a $25,000 fine
to the EPA.
R-12 Refrigerant Conversion
If your vehicle still uses R-12 refrigerant, one
way to save A/C system costs down the road is to invesh-
gate the possibility of having your system converted
to R-134a. The older R-12 systems can be easily
converted to R-134a refrigerant by a certified auto-
motive technician by installing a few new compo-
nents and changing the system oil.
The cost of R-12 is steadily rising and will con-
tinue to increase, because it is no longer imported or
manufactured in the United States. Therefore, it is of-
ten possible to have an R-12 system converted to R-
134a and recharged for less than it would cost to just
charge the system with R-12.
If you are interested in having your system con-
verted, contact local automotive service stations for
more details and information.
u See Figures 123 and 124
Although the A/C system should not be serviced
by the do-it-yourselfer, preventive maintenance can
be practiced and A/C system inspections can be per- Fig. 123 A coolant tester can be used to de-
1 termine the freezing and boiling levels of
the coolant in your vehicle
Fig. 124 To ensure efficient cooling system
operation, inspect the radiator cap gasket
and seal

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE 1-39
leak. In most cases, you will be able to trace the leak
to a loose fitting or damaged hose.
Evaporating ethylene glycol antifreeze will have a
sweet smell and leave small, white (salt-like) de-
oosits, which can be heloful in tracino a leak. glove box and passenger side floorboard area, and
check the carpet for any signs of moisture. The
smartest way to go about finding a leak visually is to
first inspect any and all joints in the system such as
where the radiator hoses connect to the radiator and
the engine. Another thing to look for is white crusty
stains that are signs of a leak where the coolant has
6. Install the filler plug and tighten to’24 ft. Ibs.
(32 Nm).
7. If raised, carefully lower the vehicle. amount of fluid. The level should ieach thk bottom of me rating on It, lap3 1s a danciara 10 use out some
the oil filler hole. A Qss
tin,t.as ran +tw,, 4liE cars are higher. Overpressurizing the system can
lose, or worse, in the radiator or
your cooling system is con- IIC~KI LUG MU PuaJbly cause an injury or a burn if
s of a leak are probable. There the coolant is hot. Overpressurizing is normally con-
WI” U”.VlUl ,.“,,I I” 9” about finding the source of trolled by the radiator cap which has a vent valve in it
your leak. which is opened when the system reaches it’s maxi-
The first wav should be a visual insnection. Durina mum pressure rating. To pressure test the system: 7 “1sl I ly”lsJa IJ” Wll” IJU
If a the fluid level of
stantly low, the chance cause a rupture in a I:
h.n+n. nrrrn nnA . . . . ..I.
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS the visual inspection, look around the &tire engine -
area including the radiator and the heater hoses. The *The pressure test should be performed with
the enaine OFF.
A good quality ethylene glycol based or other alu-
minum compatible antifreeze is recommended for
use in the vehicles covered by this manual. It is best
to add a 50150 mix of antifreeze and distilled water to
avoid diluting the coolant in the system. interior of the car should be inspected behind the
LEVELCHECK
recovery tank and its marking as a guideline.
*Never overfill the recovery tank.
A coolant level that consistently drops is usually a
sign of a small, hard to detect leak, although in the
worst case it could be a sign of an internal engine “_y “,~--
1 Fia. 190 A visual insaection for leaks will 1
sometimes find a leak. This photo shows Fig. 191 Remove the recovery tank cap to
/ * ,, / evfdence of a leak at the upper radfator
* / /the system allow the pressure tester
to be connected to hose-to-thermostat housing junction
Fig. 189 The coolant level should be be-
1 coo,ant recovery tank tween the FULL and LOW levels on the
“‘~‘_I j Fig. 192 This cooling system requires a Fig. 193 Thread the adapter onto the re-
e’ffi1pg7 / g’051p96 / 1 covety tank threaded adapter for the recovery tank to al-
low the pressure tester to
be connected

l-40 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
aiffiip98 Fig. 194 Pump the cooling system with pres-
sure, making sure not to overpressurize the
1 system or damage can occur
1. Remove the radiator or recovery tank cap.
2. Using the proper adapter, insert it onto the
opening and connect the pressure tester,
3. Begin pressurizing the system by pumping the
pressure tester and watching the gauge, when the
maximum pressure is reached, stop.
4. Watch the gauge carefully and see if the pres-
sure on the gauge drops, if it does, a leak is definitely
present.
5. If the pressure stayed somewhat stable, visu-
ally inspect the system for leaks, If the pressure
dropped, repressurize the system and then visually
inspect the system.
,
/ observe the pressure reading “@‘p~ 1 Fig 195 Watch the gauge on the system and
dropped more than 20%, a leak definitely exists, if
the oressure droo is less than 20%. the svstem is
most likely okay:
, cooling system when hot; serious burns can
Another way coolant is lost is by a internal engine occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also,
leak, causing the oil to be contaminated or the when draining engine coolant, keep in mind
coolant to be burned in the process of combustion that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene
and sent out the exhaust. To check for oil contamina- glyeol antifreeze and could drink any that is
tion, remove the dipstick and check the condition of left in an uncovered container or in puddles
the oil in the oil pan. If the oil is murky and has a on the ground. This will prove fatal in suffi-
white or beige “milkshake” look to it, the coolant is cient quantities. Always drain coolant into a
contaminating the oil through an internal leak and the sealable container. Coolant should be reuser
enqine must be torn down to find the leak. If the oil mless it is contaminated or is several years
6. If no signs of a leak are noticed visually, pres-
surize the system to the maximum pressure rating of
the system and leave the uressure tester connected
fl sr about 30 minutes. Return after 30 minutes and
V erify the pressure on the gauge, if the pressure does not verify the situation, removing the spark
plugs one at a time and checking the electrodes for a
green or white tint can verify an internal coolant leak
and identify which cylinder(s) is the culprit and aiding
your search for the cause of the leak. If the spark
plugs appear okay, another method is to use a gas
analyzer or emissions tester, or one of several hand-
held tools that most professional shops possess. This
tools are used to check the cooling system for the
presence of Hydrocarbons (HC’s) in the coolant.
DRAIN & REFILL
p See figures 196 thru 205
Ensure that the engine is completely cool prior to
starting this service.
Never open, service or drain the radiator or
Ippears okay, the coolant can be burned and going
jut the tailpipe. A quick test for this is a cloud of
Nhite smoke appearing from the tailpipe, especially
In start-up. On cold days, the white smoke will ap-
Iear, this is due to condensation and the outside
emperature, not a coolant leak. If the “smoke test”
Fig. 196 The draincock is usually located at
Fig. 197 Gently rotate the draincock coun-
the bottom of the radiator
terclockwise to open the draincock . . .
Fig. 199 Allow the fluid to drain until it stops
and tighten the draineock hand tight
93151p27
1. Remove the recovery tank or radiator cap.
2, Raise and support the vehicle.
3. If necessary, remove the splash shield from un
ler the front of the vehicle.
93im76 Fig, 198 . _ . then allow the coolant to drain
out of the radiator and cooling system
Fig. 200 Make sure to heed the caution on
the radiator cap and NEVER open the cap
1 when the engine is hot ,, Fig. 201 Grasp the radiator cap and rotate
it counterclockwise . . .

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-43
l Special car washing detergent is the best to
use. Liquid dishwashing detergent can remove wax
and leave the car’s paint unprotected and in addition
some liquid detergents contains abrasives which can
scratch the paint.
l Bird droppings should be removed from the
paintwork as soon as possible, otherwise the finish
may be permanently stained.
When the car is driven immediately after be-
ing washed, apply the brakes several times
93151p14 93151p12 Fig. 215 Twist the reservoir cap, then lift up
I I
in order to remove any moisture from the
Fig. 216 Wipe the dipstick off, reinsert it braking surfaces.
on the integral cap/dipstick assembly
into the reservoir and check the level
I
Engine cleaning agents should not be used
when the engine is warm, a fire risk is pre-
sent as most engine cleaning agents are
highly flammable.
sition of the fluid against the mark on the dipstick,
Add fluid to the reservoir if the fluid does not reach
the appropriate full line.
On most models, the manufacturer doesn’t install
lubrication fittings on lube points on the steering
linkage or suspension. However, if the lubrication
point does have a grease fitting, lubricate with multi-
purpose NLGI No. 2 (Lithium base) grease.
CAR WASHING
The car should be washed at regular intervals to
remove dirt, dust, insects, and tar and other possibly
damaging stains that can adhere to the paint and may
cause damage. Proper exterior maintenance also
helps in the resale value of the vehicle by maintaining
its like-new appearance.
Mt is particularly important ta frequentiy
wash the car in the wintertime to prevent cor-
rosion, when salt has been used on the roads.
There are many precautions and tips on washing,
including the following:
l When washing the car, do not expose it do di-
rect sunlight.
. Use lukewarm water to soften the dirt before
you wash with a sponge, and plenty of water, to avoid
scratching.
l A detergent can be used to facilitate the soften-
ing of dirt and oil. * A water-soluble grease solvent may be used in
cases of sticky dirt. However, use a washplace with a
drainage separator.
l Dry the car with a clean chamois and remem-
ber to clean the drain holes in the doors and rocker
panels.
l If equipped with a power radio antenna, it must
be dried after washing.
Never clean the bumpers with gasoline or
paint thinner, always use the same agent as
used on the painted surfaces of the vehicle.
l Tar spots can be removed with tar remover or
kerosene after the car has been washed.
l A stiff-bristle brush and lukewarm soapy water
can be used to clean the wiper blades. Frequent
cleaning improves visibility when using the wipers
considerably.
l Wash off the did from the underside (wheel
housings, fenders, etc.).
l In areas of high industrial fallout, more fre-
quent washing is recommended.
During high pressure washing the spray nonle
must never be closer to the vehicle than 13
inches (30cm). Do not spray into the locks.
l When washing or steam cleaning the engine,
avoid spraying water or steam directly on the electri-
cal components or near the distributor or ignition
components. After cleaning the engine, the spark
plug wells should be inspected for water and blown
dry if necessary. Automatic car washing is a simple and quick way
to clean your car, but it is worth remembering that it
is not as thorough as when you yourself clean the
car. Keeping the underbody clean is vitally important,
and some automatic washers do not contain equip-
ment for washing the underside of the car.
When driving into an automatic was, make sure
the following precautions have been taken:
l Make sure all windows are up, and no objects
that you do not want to get wet are exposed.
l In some cases, rotating the side view mirrors
in can help to avoid possible damage.
l If your car is equipped with a power antenna,
lower it. If your vehicle has a solid mounted, non-
power antenna, it is best to remove it, but this is not
always practical. Inspect the surroundings to reduce
the risk of possible damage, and check to see if the
antenna can be manually lowered.
Most manufacturers do not recommend auto-
matic car washing in the first six months due
to the possibility of insufficient paint curing;
a safe bet is to wait until after six months of
ownership (when purchased new) to use an
automatic car wash.
WAXING
eBefore applying wax, the vehicle must be
washed and thoroughly dried.
Waxing a vehicle can help to preserve the appear-
ante of your vehicle. A wide range of polymer-based
car waxes are available today. These waxes are easy
to use and produce a long-lasting, high gloss finish
that protects the body and paint against oxidation,
road dirt, and fading.
Sometimes, waxing a neglected vehicle, or one
that has sustained chemical or natural element dam-
age (such as acid rain) require more than waxing,
and a light-duty compound can be applied. For se-
verely damaged surfaces, it is best to consult a pro-
fessional to see what would be required to repair the
damage.
Waxing procedures differ according to manufac-
turer, type, and ingredients, so it is best to consult
the directions on the wax and/or polish purchased.

.
2-8 ENGINEELECTRICAL
Front
of the
Vehicle
Fig. 35 1.61(4661) and 2.OL (4663) DDHC
engines
Firing order: l-3-4-2
Distributorless ignition system
Fig. 36 2.4L (4664) DDHC engine with dis-
lributorless ignition
Firing order: l-3-4-2
gistributorless ignition system
Front
of the
Vehicle
+
Fig. 36 1997-00 1.6L (4693) and 1999-00
2.41(4664) Engines with distributorless ig-
nition
Firing order: l-3-4-2
Distributorless ignition system
792!33g26 Fig. 39 3.OL (6672) SDHC and 3.5L (6674)
engines
Firing order: l-2-3-65-6
Distributor rotation: Counterclockwise Fig. 37 2.4L (4664) engine with distributor
ignition
Firing order: l-3-4-2
Distributor rotation: Counterclockwise
:ig. 40 3.OL (6672) DDHC engine
Yring order: l-2-3-4-5-6
Iistributorless ignition system
The automobile charging system provides electri-
cal power for operation of the vehicle’s ignition and
starting systems and all the electrical accessories.
The battery serves as an electrical surge or storage
tank, storing (in chemical form) the energy originally
produced by the engine driven alternator. The system
also provides a means of regulating generator output
to protect the battery from being overcharged and to
avoid excessive voltage to the accessories.
The storage battery IS a chemical device incorpo-
rating parallel lead plates in a tank containing a sul-
furic acid/water solution. Adjacent plates are slightly
dissimilar, and the chemical reaction of the 2 dissim-
ilar plates produces electrical energy when the battery
is connected to a load such as the starter motor. The
chemical reaction is reversible, so that when the gen-
erator IS producing a voltage (electrical pressure)
greater than that produced by the battery, electricity is
forced into the battery, and the battery is returned to
its fully charged state.
The vehicle’s alternator is driven mechanically, by
a belt(s) that is driven by the engine crankshaft. In an alternator, the field rotates while all the current pro-
duced passes only through the stator winding. The
brushes bear against continuous slip rings rather
than a commutator. This causes the current produced
to periodically reverse the direction of its flow creat-
ing alternating current (A/C). Diodes (electrical one-
way switches) block the flow of current from traveling
in the wrong direction. A series of diodes is wired to-
gether to permit the alternating flow of the stator to be
converted to a pulsating, but unidirectional flow at
the alternator output, The alternators field is wired in
series with the voltage regulator.
The regulator consists of several circuits. Each cir-
cuit has a core, or magnetic coil of wire, which oper-
ates a switch. Each switch is connected to ground
through one or more resistors. The coil of wire re-
sponds directly to system voltage. When the voltage
reaches the required level, the magnetic field created
by the winding of wire closes the switch and inserts a
resistance into the generator field circuit, thus reduc-
ing the output. The contacts of the switch cycle open
and close many times each second to precisely con-
trol voltage. Several precautions must be observed when per-
forming work on alternator equipment.
l If the battery is removed for any reason, make
sure that it is reconnected with the correct polarity.
Reversing the battery connections may result In dam-
age to the one-way rectifiers.
l Never operate the alternator with the main cir-
cuit broken. Make sure that the battery, alternator,
and regulator leads are not disconnected while the
engine is running.
l Never attempt to polarize an alternator. l When charging a battery that is installed in the
vehicle, disconnect the negative battery cable.
l When utilizing a booster battery as a starting
aid, always connect it in parallel; negatrve to nega-
tive, and positive to positrve.
l When arc (electric) welding is to be performed
on any part of the vehicle, disconnect the negative
battery cable and alternator leads.
l Never unplug the PCM while the engine is run-
ning or with the ignition in the ON position. Severe
and expensive damage may result within the solid
state equipment.

ENGINE ELECTRlCiL 2-13
ing the oil pressure sending unit
1. Detach the oil pressure gauge unit electrical
connector.
2. Use a suitable test lioht (12V-3.4W) to around
the harnesssideconnecto~ ’ ’ -
3. Turn the ignition to the ON position.
4. Check the condition of the test light and gauge
as follows:
a. If all components are operating properly,
the test light will flash or light steadily and the
oil pressure gauge needle will move. b. If the test light flashes or lights steadily but
the gauge does not move, the gauge must be re-
placed.
c. If neither the test light or the gauge oper-
ate, check the oil pressure gauge circuit and re-
place, if necessary.
Sending Unit Check
1. Remove the electrical harness connector from
the sending unit and remove the sending unit from
the oil filter head.
2. Connect an ohmmeter between the terminal
and the sending unit body cavity and check for con-
ductivity. If there is no conductivity, replace the send-
ing unit.
3. Next, insert a very thin wedge through the oil
hole in the end of the sending unit. Push the wedge
in slightly and measure resistance. There should be
- - -- d . . . .
no conoucovey.
4. If there is conductivity, even when wedge is
pushed, replace the sending unit.
5. If there is no conductivity when a 71 psi pres-
sure is placed through the oil hole, the sending unit
is operating properly. 6. Check to see that there is no air pressure leak-
age through the sending unit. If there is air pressure
leakage, the diaphragm is broken and the sending
unit will require replacement.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
b See Figures 60 thru 65
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3. Detach the electrical harness connector from
the sending unit, then remove the unit from the oil fil-
ter head.
To install:
4. Aoolv a thin bead of sealant to the threaded
portion of the oil pressure sending unit. Do not allow
sealer to contact the end of the threaded portion of
the sending unit.
5. Install the sending unit and tighten to 8 ft. tbs.
(12 Nm). Do not over-tighten the sending unit.
6. Attach the electrical harness connector to the
/pressure sending unit g3’9wi / m&e shape . . . Fig 60 Detach the connector from the oil
g3152w Fig 61 The body of the sending unit has a sending unit.
7. Carefully lower the vehicle, then connect the
negative battery cable.
93152PM Fig. 62 . , .
and the use of an oil pressure
sending unit socket greatly aids the removal
and installation
Fig. 65 Before installing the sending unit,
it is a good idea to place Teflon@ tape on
the threads