2006 MERCEDES-BENZ SPRINTER tire pressure

SUSPENSION AND STEERING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
FRONT END NOISE 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or sus-
pension components.2. Tighten or replace components as nec-
essary.
3. Loose or worn steering or sus-
pension components.3. Tighten or replace components as nec-
essary.
EXCESSIVE PLAY IN
STEERING1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or sus-
pension components.2. Tighten or replace components as nec-
essary.
3. Loose or worn steering gear. 3. Replace steering gear.
FRONT WHEELS SHIMMY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or sus-
pension components.2. Tighten or replace components as nec-
essary.
3. Tires worn or out of balance. 3. Replace or balance tires.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
VEHICLE INSTABILITY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearing. 1. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Loose or worn steering or sus-
pension components.2. Tighten or replace components as nec-
essary.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
EXCESSIVE STEERING
EFFORT1. Loose or worn steering gear. 1. Replace steering gear.
2. Column coupler binding. 2. Replace coupler.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
VEHICLE PULLS TO ONE
SIDE1. Tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Tire. 2. Criss-Cross Front Tires.
3. Alignment. 3. Align vehicle to specifications.
4. Loose or worn steering or sus-
pension components.4. Tighten or replace components as nec-
essary.
5. Radial tire lead. 5. Rotate or replace tire as necessary.
6. Brake pull. 6. Repair brake as necessary.
7. Weak or broken spring. 7. Replace spring.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TOE ADJUSTMENT
CAMBER AND CASTER ARE NOT ADJUSTABLE
(TOE ONLY)..
The wheel toe position adjustment is the final
adjustment.
(1) Start the engine and turn wheels both ways
before straightening the wheels. Secure the steering
wheel with the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.(2) Loosen the tie rod jam nuts.
NOTE: Each front wheel should be adjusted for
one-half of the total toe position specification. This
will ensure the steering wheel will be centered
when the wheels are positioned straight-ahead.
(3) Adjust the wheel toe position by turning the
inner tie rod as necessary.
2 - 18 WHEEL ALIGNMENTVA

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................19
OPERATION...........................19
REMOVAL.............................20
INSTALLATION.........................20
ROTORS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT (SRW)..............20
REMOVAL - REAR (SRW)...............20
REMOVAL - FRONT (DRW)..............21
REMOVAL - REAR (DRW)...............21
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT (SRW)..........22
INSTALLATION - REAR (SRW)...........22
INSTALLATION - FRONT (DRW)..........22
INSTALLATION - REAR (DRW)...........22
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL - REAR......................23
INSTALLATION - REAR...................23
PARKING BRAKE
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................23
SPECIAL TOOLS
PARK BRAKE........................24
CABLE TENSIONER
REMOVAL.............................24INSTALLATION.........................24
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................24
REMOVAL - REAR.....................25
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................25
INSTALLATION - REAR.................26
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE CABLES . 26
LEVER
REMOVAL.............................26
INSTALLATION.........................27
SHOES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - (SRW)....................27
REMOVAL - (DRW)....................27
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....28
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - (SRW).................28
INSTALLATION - (DRW).................28
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................28
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE SYS-
TEM
Base brake components consist of the brake pads,
calipers, brake drum in hat rotor in the rear, rotors,
brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking
brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEVA

(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
VABRAKES - BASE 5 - 3

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT (SRW)
(1) Install the disc brake rotor to the hub and
install two lug studs to hold rotor in place.
(2) Install the locking bolt for the rotor (Fig. 24).
Tighten to 23 N´m (204 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the disc brake caliper adapter (Fig. 24).
Tighten to 170 N´m (125 ft. lbs.) (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(4) Install the brake pads (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE PADS/SHOES
- INSTALLATION) (Fig. 24).
(5) Press and release the brake pedal several times
until pressure has built up.
(6) Check fluid in reservoir and correct if neces-
sary.
(7) Install the front wheels (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS/WHEELS - INSTALLATION).
(8) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - REAR (SRW)
(1) Install the disc brake rotor to the hub and
install two lug studs to hold rotor in place (Fig. 25).
(2) Apply the parking brake.
(3) Install the locking bolt for the rotor (Fig. 25).
Tighten to 23 N´m (204 in. lbs.).
(4) Install the disc brake caliper adapter (Fig. 25).
Tighten to 90 N´m (66 ft. lbs.) (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALI-
PER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the brake pads (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE PADS/SHOES
- INSTALLATION) (Fig. 25).
(6) Release the parking brake.
(7) Adjust the parking brake (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - ADJUST-
MENTS).
(8) Press and release the brake pedal several times
until pressure has built up.
(9) Check fluid in reservoir and correct if neces-
sary.
(10) Install the rear wheels.
(11) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - FRONT (DRW)
(1) Install the disc brake rotor to the hub and
install two lug studs to hold rotor in place.
(2) Install the locking bolt for the rotor (Fig. 26).
Tighten to 23 N´m (204 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the disc brake caliper adapter (Fig. 26).
Tighten to 170 N´m (125 ft. lbs.) (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(4) Install the wheel flange ring. Tighten to 180
N´m (133 ft. lbs.)
(5) Install the brake pads (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE PADS/SHOES
- INSTALLATION) (Fig. 26).
(6) Press and release the brake pedal several times
until pressure has built up.
(7) Check fluid in reservoir and correct if neces-
sary.
(8) Install the front wheels (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS/WHEELS - INSTALLATION).
(9) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - REAR (DRW)
(1) Install the disc brake rotor to the hub and
install two lug studs to hold rotor in place (Fig. 27).
(2) Apply the parking brake.
(3) Install the locking bolt for the rotor (Fig. 27).
Tighten to 23 N´m (204 in. lbs.).
(4) Install the disc brake caliper adapter (Fig. 27).
Tighten to 170 N´m (125 ft. lbs.) (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the wheel flange ring (Fig. 27) Tighten
to 200 N´m (148 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the brake pads (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE PADS/SHOES
- INSTALLATION) (Fig. 27).
(7) Release the parking brake.
(8) Adjust the parking brake (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - ADJUST-
MENTS).
Fig. 27 REAR DISC BRAKE ROTOR WITH DUAL
REAR WHEELS
1 - ADAPTER BOLT
2 - ADAPTER
3 - GUIDE PIN/BOLT
4 - WEAR INDICATOR
5 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
6 - RETAINING SPRING
7 - DISC BRAKE PADS
8 - WHEEL FLANGE RING MOUNITNG BOLT
9 - WHEEL FLANGE RING
10 - DISC BRAKE ROTOR
5 - 22 BRAKES - BASEVA

(9) Press and release the brake pedal several times
until pressure has built up.
(10) Check fluid in reservoir and correct if neces-
sary.
(11) Install the rear wheels.
(12) Lower the vehicle.
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the disc brake caliper adapter (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the disc brake rotor (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the rear park brake shoes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the park brake cable from he support
plate.
(6) Remove the rear axle bearing (Refer to 3 - DIF-
FERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE/AXLE
BEARINGS - REMOVAL).(7) Remove brake support plate.
INSTALLATION - REAR
(1) Press the brake support plate with the axle
bearing onto the axle shaft (Refer to 3 - DIFFEREN-
TIAL & DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE/AXLE BEARINGS
- INSTALLATION).
(2) Install the park brake cable to the support
plate.
(3) Install the rear park brake shoes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - INSTALLA-
TION).
(4) Install the disc brake rotor (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the disc brake caliper adapter (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(6) Adjust the rear park brake shoes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - ADJUST-
MENTS).
(7) Install the rear wheels (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS/WHEELS - INSTALLATION).
PARKING BRAKE
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Pressure Transformer Unit
For Brake Cables To
Frame Crossmember25 Ð 221
Hand Brake Lever To
Seat Frame25 Ð 221
VABRAKES - BASE 5 - 23

The heated seat relay cannot be repaired or
adjusted and, if faulty or damaged, it must be
replaced.
OPERATION
The ISO relay consists of an electromagnetic coil, a
resistor or diode, and three (two fixed and one mov-
able) electrical contacts. The movable (common feed)
relay contact is held against one of the fixed contacts
(normally closed) by spring pressure. When the elec-
tromagnetic coil is energized, it draws the movable
contact away from the normally closed fixed contact,
and holds it against the other (normally open) fixed
contact. When the electromagnetic coil is de-ener-
gized, spring pressure returns the movable contact to
the normally closed position. The resistor or diode is
connected in parallel with the electromagnetic coil in
the relay, and helps to dissipate voltage spikes that
are produced when the coil is de-energized.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEATED SEAT
RELAY
The heated seat relay is located in the Fuse Block,
under the drivers seat. Refer toWiringfor the loca-
tion of complete heated seat system wiring diagrams.
(1) Remove the heated seat relay from the fuse
block.
(2) A relay in the de-energized position should
have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and
no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go
to Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(3) Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (elec-
tromagnet) should be 75   5 ohms. If OK, go to Step
4. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(4) Connect a battery to terminals 85 and 86.
There should now be continuity between terminals
30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A
and 30. If OK, check the relay supply circuits. If not
OK, replace the faulty relay.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) The heated seat relay is located in the fuse
block, under the drivers seat. Refer to wiring for
detailed location.
(3) Grasp the heated seat relay firmly and pull it
straight out from the fuse block. A slight rocking
motion will aid in removal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Grasp the heated seat relay firmly and push it
straight in the fuse block.
(2) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
HEATED SEAT SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The heated seat temperature sensor is a Negative
Temperature Coefficient (NTC) thermistor. One tem-
perature sensor is used for each seat. The sensor is
located in the seat cushion heating element for all
models.
The heated seat sensor cannot be adjusted or
repaired and if it is found to be faulty, the complete
heated seat element must be replaced.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEATED SEAT
SENSOR
For complete circuit diagrams, refer toWiring.
NOTE: Any resistance values (ohmsV) given in the
following text are supplied using the automatic
range generated by a FLUKETautomotive meter. If
another type of measuring device is used the val-
ues generated may not be the same as the results
shown here, or may have to be converted to the
range used here.
(1) Backprobe the heated seat relay wire harness
connector, do not disconnect. Using an voltmeter,
check the voltage of the seat temperature sensor
input cavity of the heated seat relay wire harness
connector. The seat sensor input voltage should be
between 1.7 volts and 3.0 volts with the system ON.
If OK, sensor is OK at this time. If not OK, replace
the faulty seat cushion heating element and sensor
assembly.
PASSENGER HEATED SEAT
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The heated seat switches are located on the instru-
ment panel, in the accessory switch bezel. The two,
momentary rocker type switches provide a signal to
the Heated Seat Relay through separate hard wired
circuits. Each switch contains two light emitting
diodes (LED), one for each High and Low setting to
let the occupant know that the seat heater system is
on.
The heated seat switches and their LED's cannot
be repaired. If either switch is faulty or damaged the
entire switch must be replaced.
OPERATION
There are three modes that can be selected with
each of the heated seat switches: Off, Low, and High.
When the top of the switch rocker is depressed, the
low mode is selected and the low mode LED indicator
illuminates. Depressing the top of the switch rocker a
VAHEATED SEATS 8G - 13

The two washer nozzles have integral mounts with
snap features that secure them near the tops of the
two wiper arms on the windshield. The lower surface
of the washer nozzle has an integral barbed nipple
that connects to the washer hose, and three nozzle
orifices are oriented to dispense the washer fluid on
the windshield glass throughout the wiped area of
the glass (Fig. 15). The washer nozzles are con-
structed entirely of molded plastic. The washer noz-
zles cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if faulty or
damaged, they must be replaced.
OPERATION
The two washer nozzles are designed to dispense
washer fluid into the wiper pattern area on the out-
side of the windshield glass. Pressurized washer fluid
is fed to each nozzle from the washer reservoir by the
washer pump/motor through rubber hoses, which are
attached to a barbed nipple on the underside of each
washer nozzle below the wiper arm. The three ori-
fices of each nozzle causes the pressurized washer
fluid to be emitted generously in several streams
throughout the travel of the wiper arm to more effec-
tively cover a larger area of the glass to be cleaned.
REMOVAL
(1) Using hand pressure, unsnap the washer noz-
zle from the wiper arm (Fig. 16).
(2) Disconnect the hose from the barbed nipple of
the washer nozzle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Reconnect the hose to the barbed nipple of the
washer nozzle (Fig. 16).
(2) Using hand pressure, slide the washer nozzle
onto the wiper arm until it snaps into place. Be cer-tain the nozzle snap feature is engaged in the locator
hole on the wiper arm.
WASHER PUMP / MOTOR
DESCRIPTION
The washer pump/motor unit is located in a dedi-
cated hole on the top of the sump area near the back
of the windshield washer reservoir on the right front
fender wheel house in the engine compartment (Fig.
17). A small permanently lubricated and sealed elec-
tric motor is coupled to the rotor-type washer pump.
An inlet nipple on the bottom of the pump housing
passes through a rubber grommet seal installed in
the dedicated mounting hole in the washer reservoir.
A small barbed outlet nipple near the bottom of the
pump housing connects the unit to the washer hose.
The washer pump/motor unit is retained on the res-
ervoir by the interference fit between the inlet nipple
and the grommet seal, which is a light press fit. An
integral electrical connector receptacle is located on
the top of the motor housing.
An optional version of the washer pump/motor unit
incorporates an integral washer fluid level switch.
This version can be distinguished from models with-
out the switch by a vent nipple at the top of the
switch housing that is connected to a vent hose that
is retained in an integral clip behind the filler cap
near the top of the reservoir, and by a third terminal
pin in the washer pump/motor connector receptacle.
The washer pump/motor unit cannot be repaired. If
faulty or damaged, the entire washer pump/motor
unit must be replaced.
Fig. 16 Washer Nozzle Remove/Install
1 - WIPER ARM
2 - WASHER NOZZLE
3 - HOSE GUARD
4 - WASHER HOSE
5 - WIPER BLADE
Fig. 17 Washer Pump/Motor
1 - INLET NIPPLE
2 - WASHER PUMP/MOTOR
3 - CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE
4 - VENT NIPPLE (W/FLUID LEVEL SWITCH ONLY)
5 - WASHER FLUID LEVEL SWITCH HOUSING
6 - OUTLET NIPPLE
VAWIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 19

CATALYTIC CONVERTER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the clamp nuts with heat valve lubri-
cant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration. Remove the
rear clamp. (Fig. 1)
(3) Saturate the clamp nuts with heat valve lubri-
cant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration. Remove the
front clamp.
(4) Remove the cataylic converter and muffler
assembly from the isolators.
(5) Seperat the cataylic converter and muffler
assembly from the tailpipe and the exhaust pipe.
(6) Remove the cataylic converter and muffler
assembly and isolators from the vehicle.
(7) Remove the bolt, nut and front isolator from
the cataylic converter and muffler assembly.
(8) Remove the rear isolator from the cataylic con-
verter and muffler assembly.
(9)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install bolt, front isolator and nut (Fig. 1).
(2) Install rear insulator onto the cataylic con-
verter and muffler assembly
(3) Position the cataylic conveter and muffler
assembly into the exhaust pipe and tailpipe until
alignment tab is inserted into the alignment slot.
(4) Install the front and rear insulators.
(5) Install the real clamp.
(6) Install the front clamp.
(7) Lower vehicle.
(8) Start the vehicle and inspect for exhaust leaks.
Repair exhaust leaks as necessary.
(9) Check the exhaust system for contact with the
body panels. Make necessary adjustments, if neces-
sary.
EXHAUST PIPE
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the clamp nuts with heat valve lubri-
cant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration. Remove the
front and rear clamp (Fig. 1).
(3) Remove the mounting bracket nuts.
(4) Remove the exhaust pipe.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the exhaust pipe into the exhaust pipe
into the cataylic converter and muffler assembly
until alignment tab is inserted into the alignment
slot.
(2) Install mounting bracket and nuts (Fig. 1).
(3) Install clamp.(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Start the vehicle and inspect for exhaust leaks.
Repair exhaust leaks as necessary.
(6) Check the exhaust system for contact with the
body panels. Make necessary adjustments, if neces-
sary.
TAILPIPE
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the clamp nuts with heat valve lubri-
cant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration (Fig. 1).
(3) Remove the clamp.
(4) Remove the tailpipe and insulator form the
vehicle
(5) Remove the insulator from the tailpipe.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the tail pipe into the cataylic converter
and muffler assembly until alignment tab is inserted
into the alignment slot.
(2) Install the insulator.
(3) Install the clamp.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Start the vehicle and inspect for exhaust leaks.
Repair exhaust leaks as necessary.
(6) Check the exhaust system for contact with the
body panels. Make necessary adjustments, if neces-
sary.
TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: The turbocharger is a performance part
and must not be tampered with. The boost pressure
bracket is an integral part of the turbocharger. Tam-
pering with the boost pressure components can
reduce durability by increasing cylinder pressure
and thermal loading due to incorrect inlet and
exhaust manifold pressure. Poor fuel economy and
failure to meet regulatory emissions laws may
result. Increasing the turbocharger boost WILL NOT
increase engine power.
The turbocharger used on this vehicle is of the
variable turbine type. These turbochargers use the
entire exhaust energy to boost efficiency of the turbo-
charger and the engine.
The advantages of a turbocharger with variable
turbine geometry are:
²Higher charge pressure already in the lower and
in upper engine speed ranges.
²Higher torque as a result of improved cylinder
charge.
VAEXHAUST SYSTEM 11 - 3