2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 check engine

VALVES & SEATS - INTAKE/EXHAUST
DESCRIPTION
The valves are made of heat resistant steel and have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. Each valve is actu-
ated by a roller rocker arm which pivots on a stationary lash adjuster. All valves use three bead lock keepers to
retain the springs and promote valve rotation.
REMOVAL
NOTE: The cylinder heads must be removed in
order to perform this procedure.
1. Remove rocker arms and lash adjusters (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL).
2. Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the cam-
shaft.
NOTE: All valve springs and valves are removed in
the same manner; this procedure only covers one
valve and valve spring.
3. Using Special Tool C-3422–B or C-3422–C Valve
Spring Compressor and Special tool 8519 Adapter,
compress the valve spring.
NOTE: It may be necessary to tap the top of the
valve spring to loosen the spring retainers locks
enough to be removed.
4. Remove the two spring retainer lock halves.
NOTE: the valve spring is under tension use care when releasing the valve spring compressor.
5. Remove the valve spring compressor.
6. Remove the spring retainer, and the spring.
NOTE: Check for sharp edges on the keeper grooves. Remove any burrs from thevalvestembeforeremov-
ing the valve from the cylinder head.
7. Remove the valve from the cylinder head.
NOTE: The valve stem seals are common between intake and exhaust.
8. Remove the valve stem seal. Mark the valve for proper installation.

ROCKER ARM - VALVE
DESCRIPTION
The rocker arms are steel stampings with an integral roller bearing. The rocker arms incorporate an 0.5 mm (0.019
inch) oil hole in the ball socket forroller and camshaft lubrication.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several items. Check the followingitems.
1. Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be
spongy.
2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder head. Low speed runningupto1hourmayberequired.
3. Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has
reached normal operating temperature.
4. Low oil pressure.
5. The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
6. Airingestedintooilduetobrokenorcrackedoilpumppickup.
7. Worn valve guides.
8. Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.
9. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
10. Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylinder head.
11. Faulty lash adjuster.
a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base circle.
Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy adjusters can be bot-
tomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at least partially full ofoil. This can be verified by little or no
plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Disconnect the battery negative cable to
prevent accidental starter engagement.
1. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
2. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 3 and 5
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
exhaust stroke.
3. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 2 and 8
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC
compression stroke.
4. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 4 and 6
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #3 is at TDC
compression stroke.
5. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 1 and 7
Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #2 is at TDC
compression stroke.
6. Using special tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover (2),
press downward on the valve spring, remove
rocker arm.

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron.The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide
high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate isbolted to the block. The block design
allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat
is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2).
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
The front and rear oil galley holes.
The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealantwith Teflon 592 to the threads of the
front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 Nꞏm (177in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch
NPT plugs to 27 Nꞏm (240 in. lbs.) torque.

SEAL - CRANKSHAFT OIL - REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter
runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crankcase as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in
general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible
causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehi-
cle.
1. If being performed in vehicle, remove the transmis-
sion.
2. Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Spe-
cial Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the
seal. Continue to tighten the removal tool into the
seal until the tool can not be turned farther. Fail-
ure to install tool correctly the first time will cause
tool to pull free of seal without removing seal from
engine.
3. Using Special Tool 8506 (2), remove the crankshaft rear oil seal (1)

INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bending.
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into thecylinder bore (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECTING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Checkthe ring lands for cracks and/or deteri-
oration.
INSTALLATION
1. Before installing piston and connecting rod assem-
blies into the bore, install the piston rings.
2. Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine
oil. Position a ring compressor (3) over the piston
and rings. Tighten ring compressor.Ensure posi-
tion of rings do not change during this opera-
tion.
3. Position bearing onto connecting rod. Ensure that
hole in bearing shell aligns with hole in connecting
rod. Lubricate bearing surface with clean engine
oil.
4. Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod Guides
(4) into connecting rod bolt threads.

Engine Lubrication Flow Chart—Block: Table 1
FROM TO
Oil Pickup Tube Oil Pump
Oil Pump Oil Filter
Oil Filter Block Main Oil Gallery
Block Main Oil Gallery 1. Crankshaft Main Journal
2. Left Cylinder Head*
3. Right Cylinder Head*
Crankshaft Main Journals Crankshaft Rod Journals
Crankshaft Number One Main Journal 1.Front Timing Chain Idler Shaft
2.Both Secondary Chain Tensioners
Left Cylinder Head See Table 2
Right Cylinder Head See Table 2
* The cylinder head gaskets have an oil restricter to control oil flow to thecylinder heads.
Engine Lubrication Flow Chart—Cylinder Heads: Table 2
FROM TO
Cylinder Head Oil Port (in bolt hole) Diagonal Cross Drilling to Main Oil Gallery
Main Oil Gallery (drilled through headfrom rear to front) 1. Base of Camshaft Towers
2. Lash Adjuster Towers
Base of Camshaft Towers Vertical Drilling Through Tower to Camshaft Bearings**
Lash Adjuster Towers Diagonal Drillings to Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Pockets
** The number three camshaft bearing journal feeds oil into the hollow camshaft tubes. Oil is routed to the intake
lobes, which have oil passages drilled into them to lubricate the rocker arms.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
1. Remove oil pressure sending unit (2) and install
gauge assembly C-3292.
2. Run engine until thermostat opens.
3. Oil Pressure:
Curb Idle - 25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
3000 rpm - 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
4. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check
for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief
valve stuck open.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at thearea of the suspected leak. If an oil leak
source is not readily identifiable, thefollowingstepsshouldbefollowed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents maycause rubber to swell, temporarily
stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15
minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color
under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
1. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
2. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valvegrommet.
3. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
4. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applyingsoapy water at the suspected source.
Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak
source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
5. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area Leak.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV
valve and breather cap hose.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter
runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL SERVICE
The engine oil level indicator (2) is located at the right
rear of the engine on the 4.7L engines.
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil, pressure loss or oil foaming can result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800 kilometers (500 miles).Unless the engine has exhibited loss of oil
pressure, run the engine for about five minutes before checking oil level.Checking engine oil level on a cold engine
is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The acceptable
levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
1. Position vehicle on level surface.
2. With engine OFF, allow approximately ten minutes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove engine oil
dipstick.
3. Wipe dipstick clean.
4. Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
5. Remove dipstick, with handle held above the tip, take oil level reading.
6. Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules.
Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.
1. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
2. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
3. Remove oil fill cap.
4. Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
5. Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspectdrain plug threads for stretching or
other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
6. Install drain plug in crankcase.
7. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil described in this section.
8. Install oil fill cap.
9. Start engine and inspect for leaks.