2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 oil

BEARINGS - CRANKSHAFT MAIN
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING - FITTING
MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)
Crankshaft removed from the cylinder block.
Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.
Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each end
of the journal.
The maximum allowable taper is 0.008mm (0.0004 inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005mm (0.0002 inch).
Compare the measured diameter with the journal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting Chart). Select inserts
required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.
CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION
The main bearings are “select fit” to achieve proper oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crankshaft coun-
terweight has grade identification marks stamped into it. These marks areread from left to right, corresponding with
journalnumber1,2,3,4and5.
NOTE: Service main bearings are coded. These codes identify what size (grade) the bearing is.
MAIN BEARING SELECTION CHART - 5.7L
GRADE SIZE mm (in.) FOR USE WITH
MARKING JOURNAL SIZE
A0.008 mm U/S 64.988–64.995 mm
(0.0004 in.) U/S (2.5585– 2.5588in.)
BNOMINAL 64.996–65.004 mm
(2.5588–2.5592 in.)
C0.008 mm O/S 65.005–65.012 mm
(0.0004 in.) O/S (2.5592–2.5595 in.)
INSPECTION
Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal wear
patterns and for metal or other foreign material imbed-
ded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert wear pat-
terns are illustrated.
NOTE: If any of the crankshaft journals are scored,
the crankshaft must be repaired or replaced.
Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapings
or irregular wear patterns.
Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.
Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.

SEAL - CRANKSHAFT OIL - FRONT
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
3. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
4. Remove upper radiator hose.
5. Remove radiator shroud attaching fasteners.
6. Remove radiator cooling fan and shroud (Refer to
7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
REMOVAL).
7. Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
8. Remove damper using Special Tools 8513A Insert
(2) and 1023 Three Jaw Puller (1) (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
9. Using Special Tool 9071 (1), remove crankshaft
front seal (2).

SEAL - CRANKSHAFT OIL - REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore cup plugs, oil
galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See Engine, for
proper repair procedures of these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crankcase as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in
general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible
causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehi-
cle.
1. If being performed in vehicle, remove the transmis-
sion.
2. Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Spe-
cial Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the
seal. Continue to tighten the removal tool into the
seal until the tool can not be turned farther. Fail-
ure to install tool correctly the first time will cause
tool to pull free of seal without removing seal from
engine.

3. Using Special Tool 8506 (1), remove the crankshaft rear oil seal (2).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The rear seal must be installed dry for
proper operation. Do not lubricate the seal lip or
outer edge.
1. Position the plastic seal guide (2) onto the crank-
shaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear
oil seal (3) onto the guide.
2. Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
Installer (1) and C-4171 Driver Handle, with a ham-
mer, tap the seal (3) into place. Continue to tap on
the driver handle until the seal installer seats
against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
3. Install the flexplate. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - INSTALLATION).
4. Install the transmission.

RETAINER - CRANK REAR OIL - SEAL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the transmission. (Refer to 21 - TRANS-
MISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 -
REMOVAL).
3. Remove the flexplate. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL)
5. Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting bolts.
6. Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
INSTALLATION
1. Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the engine
block.
2. Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue from
the retainer.
3. Position the gasket onto the retainer.
4. Position the retainer onto the engine block.
5. Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts
to 15 Nꞏm (132 in. lbs.) using the procedure shown.
6. Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
7. Install the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE
BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - INSTALLATION).
8. Install the transmission (Refer to 21 - TRANSMIS-
SION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - NAG1 -
INSTALLATION).
9. Check and verify engine oil level.
10. Start engine and check for leaks.

TAPPETS - HYDRAULIC ROLLER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise, checkthe oil pressure. If vehicle has no oil
pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be between 207-552 kPa
(30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize oil level,
check dipstick. The oil level in the pan should never be above the FULL mark or below the ADD OIL mark on
dipstick. Either of these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible for the connecting rods todip into the oil. With the engine running,
this condition could create foam in the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump
causing them to lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When air is fed to the tappets,they lose length, which allows valves
to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil pump through which air can bedrawn will create the same tappet
action. Check the lubrication system from the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the relief valve retainer
cap. When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will
be noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient
time to allow all of the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
1. To determine source of tappet noise, crank over engine with cylinder head covers removed.
2. Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected spring
and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisytappets. If such is the case,
noise may be dampened by applying side thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it
can be assumed the noise is in the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for
wear.
3. Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a heavy click. A light noiseis usually caused by excessive leak-
down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tappet should
be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles wedged between
the plunger and the tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in the down position. This heavy click will be
accompanied by excessive clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case,
tappet assembly should be removed for inspection and cleaning.
4. The valve train generates a noise very much like a light tappet noise during normal operation. Care must be
taken to ensure that tappets are making the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be noisy, it’s probably not
the tappets.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the air cleaner (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR INTAKE SYSTEM - REMOVAL).
3. Remove intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD-REMOVAL).
4. Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDERHEAD COVER(S) -
REMOVAL).
5. Remove rocker arm assembly and push rods (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL). Identify push rods to ensure installation in original location.
6. Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).

CAUTION: 5.7L engines equipped with MDS uses both standard roller tappetsand deactivating roller tap-
pets, for use with the Multi Displacement System. The deactivating rollertappets must be used in cylinders
1,4,6,7. The deactivating tappets can be identified by the two holes in theside of the tappet body, for the
latching pins.
2. Install tappets in their original positions.
3. Install tappet retainer (1). Install the tappet retainer bolt and tighten to 12 Nꞏm (106 in. lbs.) torque.
4. Install cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
5. Install pushrods and rocker arm assembly (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSY - INSTALLATION).
6. Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLA-
TION).
7. Install intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD-INSTALLATION).
8. Install the air cleaner (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR INTAKE SYSTEM - INSTALLATION).
9. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism, engine must not be run abovefast idle until all hydrau-
lic tappets have filled with oil and have become quiet.
10. Road test vehicle and check for leaks.

4. The coating material is applied to the piston after
the final piston machining process. Measuring the
outside diameter of a coated piston will not provide
accurate results. Therefore measuring the inside
diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial Bore
Gauge isMANDATORY. To correctly select the
proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable
of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) increments is
required.
5. Piston installation intothe cylinder bore requires
slightly more pressure than that required for non-
coated pistons. The bonded coating on the piston
will give the appearance of a line-to-line fit with the
cylinder bore.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the following components:
Oil pan and gasket/windage tray (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -REMOVAL).
Cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL) and
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
Cylinder head(s) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL) and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD - REMOVAL).
3. If necessary, remove top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons from cyl-
inder block.Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered during this operation.Pistons and connecting rods
must be removed from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from the
engine, rotate crankshaft so the each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.
CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch to mark connecting rods or caps,as damage to con-
necting rods could occur
NOTE: Connecting rods and bearing caps are not
interchangeable and should be marked before
removing to ensure correct reassembly.
4. Mark connecting rod and bearing cap positions
using a permanent ink marker or scribe tool.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the
fractured rod and cap joint face surfaces, as
engine damage may occur.