2006 DODGE RAM SRT-10 wheel torque

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Excessive main bearing
clearance4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing
for excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main journal out of
round or worn6. Grind journals or replace
crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or torque
converter7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/
flywheel and bolts for damage.
Tighten to correct torque
LOW OIL PRESSURE 1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if
necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit 2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace oil pump assembly.
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity.
6. Excessive bearing clearance 6. Measure bearings for correct
clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck 7. Remove valve to inspect, clean
and reinstall
8. Oil pickup tube loose, broken,
bent or clogged8. Inspect oil pickup tube and pump,
and clean or replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover warped or
cracked9. Install new oil pump
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated
gaskets1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery plug or cup
plug4. Remove and reseal threaded
plug. Replace cup style plug

SPECIFICATION SPECIFICATION
At Curb Idle Speed (MIN)* 25 kPa (4 psi)
@ 3000 rpm 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
* CAUTION: If pressure is zero at curb idle, DO NOT run engine
TORQUE
TORQUE CHART 5.7L ENGINE
DESCRIPTION Nꞏm Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
Block Pipe Plugs
(1/4 NPT)20 — 177
(3/8 NPT) 27 — 240
Camshaft Sprocket—Bolt 122 90 —
Camshaft Tensioner Plate—Bolts 28 — 250
Coil to Cylinder Head Cover—Bolts 7 — 62
Timing Chain Case Cover—Bolts 28 — 250
Lifting Stud 55 40 —
Connecting Rod Cap—Bolts 21
plus 90° Turn15
plus 90° Turn—
Main Bearing Cap—Bolts
M-1227
plus 90° Turn——
Crossbolts
M-828 — —
Cylinder Head—Bolts
M-12 Bolts
Step 1 34 25 —
Step 2 54 40 —
Step 3 Turn 90° Turn 90° —
M-8 Bolts —
Step 1 20 15 —
Step 2 34 25 —
Cylinder Head Cover—Bolts 8 — 70
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head 25 — 220
Flexplate to Crankshaft—Bolts 95 70 —
Flywheel to Crankshaft—Bolts 75 55 —
Front Insulator—Thru bolt/nut 95 70 —
Front Insulator to Support Bracket
—Stud Nut (4WD) 41 30 —
—Through Bolt/Nut (4WD) 102 75 —
Front Insulator to Block—Bolts (2WD) 95 70 —
Generator—Mounting Bolt 55 40 —
Intake Manifold—Bolts Refer to Procedure
Lifter Guide Holder 12 — 106
Oil Pan Bolts 12 — 105
Oil Dipstick Tube 12 — 105

29. Install the a/c condenser (1).
30. Connect the a/c refrigerant lines to the a/c con-
denser.
31. Install the radiator upper support panel.
32. Install radiator.
33. Connect the transmission quick-connect oil cooler
lines.
34. Raise vehicle.
35. Connect a/c compressor suction/discharge hose
(if equipped).
36. Install the radiator lower hose and clamps.
37. Install the battery negative cables to the engine
block on the driver and passenger side.
38. Install the transmission adapter with a new cam-
shaft rectangular ring seal. Torque to 77 Nꞏm (57
ft. lb).
39. Install the flywheel and adapter or flexplate.
Torque to 137 Nꞏm (101 ft. lb).
NOTE: If the engine is equipped with a flexplate or
crankshaft adapter, a new clamp ring must be
used. If the engine has a flywheel with washers,
the washers can be reused.
40. Install the starter motor (2). Torque to 43 Nꞏm (32
ft. lb). (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
41. Connect engine to vehicle harness connectors.
42. Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
43. Connect the exhaust pipe to the turbocharger
elbow.
44. Connect the transmission auxiliary oil cooler lines
(if equipped).
45. Lower the vehicle.
46. Connect the heater core supply and return hoses.

36. Remove the rocker levers (1), cross heads and
push rods. Mark each component so they can be
installed in their original positions.
NOTE: The #5 cylinder exhaust and the #6 cylinder
intake and exhaust push rods are removed by lift-
ing them up and through the provided cowl panel
access holes. Remove the rubber plugs to expose
these relief holes.
37. Remove the fuel return line and banjo bolt at the rear of the cylinder head. Be careful not to drop the two (2)
sealing washers.
38. Remove the fuel injectors (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/FUEL INJECTOR - REMOVAL).
39. Remove rocker housing bolts and rocker housing and gasket.
40. Reinstall the engine lift bracket at the rear of cylinder head. Torque to77Nꞏm(57ft.lbs.).
41. Remove twenty six (26) cylinder head-to-block bolts.
42. Attach an engine lift crane to engine lift brackets and lift cylinder head off engine and out of vehicle.
43. Remove the head gasket and inspect for failure.
CLEANING
CLEANING
CAUTION: Do not wire brush head surface while fuel injectors are still installed. Fuel injector damage can
result.
Remove fuel injectors before cleaning (if not already removed during cylinder head removal).
Clean the carbon from the injector nozzle seat with a nylon or brass brush.
Scrape the gasket residuefrom all gasket surfaces.
Wash the cylinder head in hot soapy water solution (88°C or 140°F).
After rinsing, use compressed air to dry the cylinder head.
Polish the gasket surface with 400 grit paper. Use an orbital sander or sanding block to maintain a flat surface.
CLEANING—CROSSHEADS
Clean all crossheads in a suitable solvent. If necessary, use a wire brush or wheel to remove stubborn deposits.
Rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air.
CLEANING—PUSHRODS
Clean the pushrods in a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with compressed air. If necessary, use a
wire brush or wheel to remove stubborn deposits.

SEAL - CRANKSHAFT OIL - REAR
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Remove the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
3. Remove the clutch cover and disc (if manual trans-
mission equipped) (Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH
DISC - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
5. Remove the flywheel adapter plate.
6. Drill holes 180° apart into the seal. Be careful not
to contact the drill against the crankshaft.
7. Install # 10 sheet metalscrews (1) in the drilled
holes and remove the rear seal with a slide ham-
mer (4).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on the crankshaft must be freefrom all oil residue to prevent
seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal surfaces must be completely dry when the seal is installed. Use a soap
and water solution on outside diameter of seal to ease assembly.
1. Clean the crankshaft journal with a suitable solvent and dry with a cleanshop towel or compressed air. Wipe the
inside bore of the crankshaft seal retainer with a clean shop towel.
2. Inspect the crankshaft journal forgouges, nicks, or other imperfections. If the seal groove in the crankshaft is
excessively deep, install the new seal 1/8” deeper into the retainer bore,or obtain a crankshaft wear sleeve that
is available in the aftermarket.
3. Install the seal pilot and new seal, provided in the replacement kit, onto the crankshaft.
4. Remove the seal pilot.
5. Install the installation tool over crankshaft.
6. Using a ball peen hammer, strike the tool (2) at the
12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions until the alignment
tool bottoms out on the retainer.
NOTE: Always install a new clamping ring, never
reuse the old clamping ring.
7. Install the flywheel or converter drive plate, and
clamping ring. Tighten the bolts to 137 Nꞏm (101 ft.
lbs.) torque.
8. Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLA-
TION).
9. Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Connect battery negative cables.
12. Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
13. Start engine and check for oil leaks.

RETAINER - CRANK REAR OIL SEAL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the engine
oil. Re-install plug and torque to 50 Nꞏm (44 ft. lbs.)
torque.
4. Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped) from vehicle.
5. Remove flywheel or torque converter drive plate.
6. Remove flywheel adapter plate.
7. Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
8. Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL) and
transmission adapter plate assembly.
9. Remove four 4 oil pan rear bolts. Slide a feeler
gauge between the seal retainer and oil pan gasket
to break the seal.
10. Remove the six 6 retainer-to-block bolts (3).
11. Remove the rear seal retainer, and gasket (2).
12. Support the seal retainer and drive out the crankshaft seal with a hammer and suitable punch.
INSTALLATION
1. If using the old seal retainer, the crankshaft seal
must be replaced.
2. Inspect oil pan gasket for nicks or cuts. If gasket is
damaged, the oil pan must be removed and gasket
must be replaced. Wipe oil pan gasket dry and
apply light coating of RTV.
3. Using the retainer alignment/seal installation tool
provided in the seal service kit, install the align-
ment tool into the retainer and install to the cylinder
block, using a new gasket. Tighten the six (6)
mounting bolts by hand.
4. The seal alignment tool is used to align rear cover
properly. Starting with the center two bolts, tighten
the retainer in a circular pattern to 10 Nꞏm (89 in.
lbs.). Remove the alignment tool.

CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on
the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to
prevent seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal sur-
faces must be completely dry when the seal is
installed. Use a soap and water solution on out-
side diameter of seal to ease assembly.
5. Make sure the provided seal pilot (1) is installed
into the new crankshaft seal (3). Use the align-
ment/installation tool and press the seal onto the
crankshaft. Alternately drive the seal at the 12, 3, 6
and 9 o’clock positions.
6. Remove the alignment tool and trim the retainer
gasket (1) even with the oil pan mounting surface.
7. Remove the seal pilot.
8. Apply a small amount of Mopar
Silicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant to the oil pan rail T-joints.
9. Install the four (4) oil pan rear mounting bolts and
torque to 28 Nꞏm (21 ft. lbs.).
10. Install new rectangular ring seal for cam bore.
11. Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
boltsto77Nꞏm(57ft.lbs.).
12. Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
boltsto77Nꞏm(57ft.lbs.).
NOTE: A new clamping ring must be used on early
or late builds, automatic or manual. Do not reuse
clamping ring.
13. Install the dual mass flywheel with crankshaft adapter. Tighten boltsto 137 Nꞏm (101 ft. lbs.).
14. Install the starter motor Refer to (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STA R T E R M O TO R - I N S TA L L AT I O N ) .
15. Install the transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
16. Lower vehicle.
17. Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
18. Connect the battery negative cables.
19. Start engine and check for oil leaks.

PA N - E N G I N E O I L
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Install engine support fixture # 8534.
3. Raise vehicle on hoist.
4. Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
5. Remove transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
6. Remove flywheel or flexplate.
7. Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR -REMOVAL) and transmission
adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY.
8. Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
9. Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface is not damaged and tighten to 50 Nꞏm (37 ft. lbs.) torque.
10. Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block seal, and lower pan slightlyandremoveoilsuctiontubefasteners.
11. Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be required
around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces for cracks and damage. Replace any defective component.
Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for straightness. Repair any
minor imperfections with a ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
1. Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear housing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use MoparSilicone
Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent.
2. Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them into place. Slide oil pan gasket into postion.Using a new tube to
block gasket, install and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Startingwith the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the
bolts to 24 Nꞏm (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube brace boltsto 43 Nꞏm (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Starting in the center and working outward, tighten the oil pan bolts to 28Nꞏm(21ft.lbs.)torque.
4. Install the flywheel housing assembly with the starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 Nꞏm (57 ft. lbs.)
torque.
5. Connect starter motor cables.
NOTE: A new clamping ring must be used on early or late builds, automatic or manual. Do not reuse clamp-
ing ring.
6. Install the flywheel to crankshaft adapter. Torque to 137 Nꞏm (101 ft. lbs.).
7. Install transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
10. Install battery negative cables.
11. Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
12. Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine, check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.