CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES/LIFTERS 1. High or low oil level in crankcase 1. Check for correct oil level. Adjust
oil level by draining or adding as
needed
2. Thin or diluted oil 2. Change oil. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
3. Low oil pressure 3. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for
engine oil pressure test/
specifications
4. Dirt in tappets/lash adjusters 4. Clean/replace hydraulic
tappets/lash adjusters
5. Bent push rod(s) 5. Install new push rods
6. Worn rocker arms 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms
and replace worn arms as needed
7. Worn tappets/lash adjusters 7. Install new hydraulic tappets/lash
adjusters
8. Worn valve guides 8. Inspect all valve guides and
replace as necessary
9. Excessive runout of valve seats
or valve faces9. Grind valves and seats
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) engine
oil pressure test/specifications
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL - STANDARD
PROCEDURE) for correct
procedure/engine oil specifications
4. Excessive connecting rod
bearing clearance4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance with plasti-gage. Repair
as necessary
5. Connecting rod journal out of
round5. Replace crankshaft or grind
journals
6. Misaligned connecting rods 6. Replace bent connecting rods
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok,
Perform oil pressure test. (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Excessive main bearing
clearance4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing
for excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main journal out of
round or worn6. Grind journals or replace
crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or torque
converter7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/
flywheel and bolts for damage.
Tighten to correct torque
LOW OIL PRESSURE 1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if
necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit 2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace oil pump assembly.
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity.
6. Excessive bearing clearance 6. Measure bearings for correct
clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck 7. Remove valve to inspect, clean
and reinstall
8. Oil pickup tube loose, broken,
bent or clogged8. Inspect oil pickup tube and pump,
and clean or replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover warped or
cracked9. Install new oil pump
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated
gaskets1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery plug or cup
plug4. Remove and reseal threaded
plug. Replace cup style plug
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION
OR SPARK PLUGS OIL FOULED1. CCV System malfunction 1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL/EVAPORATIVE
EMISSIONS - DESCRIPTION) for
correct operation
2. Defective valve stem seal(s) 2. Repair or replace seal(s)
3. Worn or broken piston rings 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace
pistons as required
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove 5. Remove rings and de-carbon
piston
6. Worn valve guides 6. Inspect/replace valve guides as
necessary
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves7. Remove rings and check ring end
gap and side clearance. Replace if
necessary
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consistsof:
Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or equivalent.
Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE—HYDROSTATIC LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock (regardless of what causedthe problem), follow the steps below.
1. Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
2. Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the battery.
3. Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of foreign material.
4. Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure in the cylinder
head. Remove the spark plugs.
5. With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
6. Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel, oil, etc.).
7. Be sure all fluid has been removed from the cylinders.
8. Repair engine or components as necessary to prevent this problem from occurring again.
9. Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent damage on restart.
10. Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark plugs to 41 Nꞏm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
11. Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil filter.
12. Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34 Nꞏm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
13. Install a new oil filter.
14. Fill engine crankcase with the specified amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE -
SPECIFICATIONS).
26. Install the fan shroud (3).
27. Install the fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
28. Connect the radiator upper hose.
29. Install the washer bottle.
30. Connect the transmission cooler lines.
31. Install the air cleaner resonator and duct work..
32. Add engine oil to crankcase (Refer to LUBRICA-
TION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - SPECI-
FICATIONS).
33. Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
34. Connect battery negative cable.
35. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
36. Road test vehicle.
SPECIFICATIONS
5.7L ENGINE
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Engine Type 90° V-8 OHV
Displacement 5.7 Liters
345 ( Cubic Inches)
Bore 99.5 mm (3.91 in.)
Stroke 90.9 mm (3.58 in.)
Compression Ratio 9.6:1
Firing Order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Lubrication Pressure Feed - Full Flow
Filtration
Cooling System Liquid Cooled - Forced
Circulation
Cylinder Block Cast Iron
Cylinder Head Aluminum
Crankshaft Nodular Iron
Camshaft Hollow Assembled Camshaft
Pistons Aluminum Alloy
Connecting Rods Powdered Metal
CYLINDER BLOCK
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Exhaust 120.475 - 120.855 mm
(4.743 - 4.758 in.)
Stem Diameter
Intake 7.935 - 7.953 mm
(0.312 - 0.313 in.)
Exhaust 7.932 - 7.950 mm
(0.312 - 0.313 in.)
Stem - to - Guide Clearance
Intake 0.022 - 0.065 mm
(0.0008 - 0.0025 in.)
Exhaust 0.025 - 0.065 mm
(0.0009 - 0.0025 in.)
ValveLift(@ZeroLash)
Intake 12.0 mm (0.472 in.)
Exhaust 11.70 mm (0.460 in.)
VALVE SPRING
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Spring Force (Valve Closed)
Intake and Exhaust 435.0 N +/- 22.0 N @ 45 mm
(97.8 lbs +/- 5.0 lbs. @ 1.771 in.)
Spring Force (Valve Open) 1077.0 N +/- 48.0 N @ 32.6 mm.
Intake and Exhaust ( 242.0 lbs. +/- 11 lbs. @ 1.283 in. )
Free Length (approx) 55.6 mm (2.189 in.)
Number of Coils
Intake and Exhaust 7.95
Wire Diameter
Intake and Exhaust 4.95 × 4.1 mm
(0.194 - 0.161 in.)
Installed Height (Spring Seat to Bottom of Retainer)
Intake and Exhaust 46.0 mm (1.81 in.)
OIL PUMP
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Clearance Over Rotors (MAX) 0.095 mm (0.0038 in.)
Outer Rotor to Pump Body Clearance (MAX) .235 mm (.009 in.)
Tip Clearance Between Rotors (MAX) 0.150 mm (0.006 in.)
OIL PRESSURE
SPECIFICATION SPECIFICATION
At Curb Idle Speed (MIN)* 25 kPa (4 psi)
@ 3000 rpm 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
* CAUTION: If pressure is zero at curb idle, DO NOT run engine
TORQUE
TORQUE CHART 5.7L ENGINE
DESCRIPTION Nꞏm Ft. In.
Lbs. Lbs.
Block Pipe Plugs
(1/4 NPT)20 — 177
(3/8 NPT) 27 — 240
Camshaft Sprocket—Bolt 122 90 —
Camshaft Tensioner Plate—Bolts 28 — 250
Coil to Cylinder Head Cover—Bolts 7 — 62
Timing Chain Case Cover—Bolts 28 — 250
Lifting Stud 55 40 —
Connecting Rod Cap—Bolts 21
plus 90° Turn15
plus 90° Turn—
Main Bearing Cap—Bolts
M-1227
plus 90° Turn——
Crossbolts
M-828 — —
Cylinder Head—Bolts
M-12 Bolts
Step 1 34 25 —
Step 2 54 40 —
Step 3 Turn 90° Turn 90° —
M-8 Bolts —
Step 1 20 15 —
Step 2 34 25 —
Cylinder Head Cover—Bolts 8 — 70
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head 25 — 220
Flexplate to Crankshaft—Bolts 95 70 —
Flywheel to Crankshaft—Bolts 75 55 —
Front Insulator—Thru bolt/nut 95 70 —
Front Insulator to Support Bracket
—Stud Nut (4WD) 41 30 —
—Through Bolt/Nut (4WD) 102 75 —
Front Insulator to Block—Bolts (2WD) 95 70 —
Generator—Mounting Bolt 55 40 —
Intake Manifold—Bolts Refer to Procedure
Lifter Guide Holder 12 — 106
Oil Pan Bolts 12 — 105
Oil Dipstick Tube 12 — 105
Oil Pressure Gauge C-3292
Piston Ring Compressor C-385
Pressure Tester Kit 7700
Rear Crankshaft Seal Installer 8349
Rear Crankshaft Seal Remover 8506
Valve Spring Compressor C-3422-B
Valve Spring Tester C-647
Adapter, Valve Spring Compressor Off-vehicle 8464
TAPPETS - HYDRAULIC ROLLER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise, checkthe oil pressure. If vehicle has no oil
pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be between 207-552 kPa
(30-70 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize oil level,
check dipstick. The oil level in the pan should never be above the FULL mark or below the ADD OIL mark on
dipstick. Either of these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible for the connecting rods todip into the oil. With the engine running,
this condition could create foam in the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump
causing them to lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When air is fed to the tappets,they lose length, which allows valves
to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil pump through which air can bedrawn will create the same tappet
action. Check the lubrication system from the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the relief valve retainer
cap. When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will
be noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient
time to allow all of the air inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
1. To determine source of tappet noise, crank over engine with cylinder head covers removed.
2. Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected spring
and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisytappets. If such is the case,
noise may be dampened by applying side thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it
can be assumed the noise is in the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for
wear.
3. Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a heavy click. A light noiseis usually caused by excessive leak-
down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tappet should
be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles wedged between
the plunger and the tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in the down position. This heavy click will be
accompanied by excessive clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case,
tappet assembly should be removed for inspection and cleaning.
4. The valve train generates a noise very much like a light tappet noise during normal operation. Care must be
taken to ensure that tappets are making the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be noisy, it’s probably not
the tappets.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the air cleaner (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR INTAKE SYSTEM - REMOVAL).
3. Remove intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD-REMOVAL).
4. Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDERHEAD COVER(S) -
REMOVAL).
5. Remove rocker arm assembly and push rods (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM /
ADJUSTER ASSY - REMOVAL). Identify push rods to ensure installation in original location.
6. Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).