(2) Lower engine into the engine compartment and
install the engine the engine mount through bolts
and nuts.
(3) Tighten the mount through bolts and nuts to
88 N-m (65 ft-lbs) torque.
(4) Remove the engine lifting device (Tool 9009).
(5) Check cylinder head capscrew length and
install into cylinder head.
(6) Torque alternately to 70 N-m (52 ft-lbs). Torque
alternately to 105 N-m (77 ft-lbs). Rotate 90 degrees.
(7) Install rocker housing. Torque to 24 N-m (18 ft-
lbs). Refer to Section 9 Rocker Housing Installation
(8) Replace injector o-ring and sealing washer on
injectors #5 and #6. Install injectors and alternately
tighten hold-down capscrews to 10 N-m (89 in-lbs).
(9) Install fuel connector tube and fuel connector
tube nut. Torque to 50 N-m (37 ft-lb). 10.
(10) Install #5 and #6 high pressure fuel lines. Fol-
low correct torque sequence per section 14. Torque
fuel line fittings to 30 N-m (22 ft-lb). Torque brace
capscrew to 24 N-m (18 ft-lb).
(11) Install rear engine lift bracket. Torque to 77
N-m (57 ft-lb).
(12) Install push tubes, rocker arms, and pedestals
for cylinders #4, #5, and #6. Torque the mounting
bolts to 36 N-m (27 ft-lbs).
(13) Reset valve lash on cylinders #4, #5, and #6.
Torque adjusting nuts to 24 N-m (18 ft-lbs).
(14) Install cylinder head cover. Torque to 24 N-m
(18 ft-lbs).(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD -
INSTALLATION).
(15) Connect breather tube and lube oil drain tube
to breather housing. Install breather housing. Torque
capscrews to 24 N-m (18 ft-lbs)
(16) Connect fuel supply and return hoses.
(17) Connect ECM ground to hydroform screw.
Connect ECM power connector.
(18) Install the APPS cable(s) to the APPS. Install
the throttle linkage cover.
(19) Install the power steering pump.
(20) Install the damper and speed indicator ring.
Torque to 40 N-m (30 ft-lb) plus 60 degrees.
(21) Connect the engine block heater connection.
(22) Connect the A/C compressor and pressure sen-
sor connectors
(23) Install the charge air cooler and a/c condenser
(if equipped). Install and tighten the charge air
cooler mounting bolts to 2 N-m (17 in-lbs).
(24) Connect the charge air cooler piping. Torque
all clamps to 8 N-m (72 in-lbs).
(25) Connect the a/c refrigerant lines to the a/c
condenser (if equipped).
(26) Install the radiator upper support panel.
(27) Install radiator.
(28) Connect the transmission quick-connect oil
cooler lines.(29) Raise vehicle.
(30) Connect a/c compressor suction/discharge hose
(if equipped).
(31) Install the radiator lower hose and clamps.
(32) Install the battery negative cables to the
engine block on the driver and passenger side.
(33) Install the transmission adapter with a new
camshaft rectangular ring seal. Torque to 77 N-m (57
ft-lb).
(34) Install the flywheel/flexplate. Torque to 137
N-m (101 ft-lb).
(35) Install the starter motor. Torque to 43 N-m
(32 ft-lb). (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(36) Connect engine to vehicle harness connectors.
(37) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(38) Connect the exhaust pipe to the turbocharger
elbow.
(39) Connect the transmission auxiliary oil cooler
lines (if equipped).
(40) Lower the vehicle.
(41)
Connect the heater core supply and return hoses.
(42) Install the cooling fan and upper fan shroud
at the same time. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(43) Install the coolant recovery bottle.
(44) Install the windshield washer bottle.
(45) Install the upper radiator hose and clamps.
(46) Raise vehicle.
(47) Connect electronically controlled fan drive
wire harness. Install lower radiator fan shroud.
(48) Change oil filter and install new engine oil.
(49) Fill the cooling system with coolant. (Refer to
7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(50) Connect grid heater harness at grid heater
relays.
(51) Connect electrical connections to rear of alter-
nator.
(52) Start the engine and inspect for engine oil,
coolant, and fuel leaks.
INSTALLATIONÐCRANKCASE BREATHER
(1) Install a new o-ring onto the breather element.
(2) Lubricate o-ring and install into cylinder head
cover. Torque capscrews to 10 N´m (89 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect breather tube and lube oil drain tube.
(4) Install breather cover (Fig. 4). Torque to 24
N´m (18 ft. lbs.)
(5) Install oil fill cap.
9 - 292 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)
(3) Consult the parts catalog for the proper head
gaskets which must be used with refaced blocks to
ensure proper piston-to-valve clearance.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE -
DE-GLAZE
(1) New piston rings may not seat in glazed cylin-
der bores.
(2) De-glazing gives the bore the correct surface
finish required to seat the rings. The size of the bore
is not changed by proper de-glazing.
(3) Cover the lube and tappet holes in the top of
the block with waterproof tape.
(4) It crankshaft is installed, wrap connecting rod
journals with clean cloth. Cover cloth with water-
proof tape.
(5) A correctly honed surface will have a cross-
hatch appearance with the lines at 15É to 25É angles
(Fig. 46). For the rough hone, use 80 grit honing
stones. To finish hone, use 280 grit honing stones.
(6) Use a drill, a fine grit Flex-hone and a mixture
of equal parts of mineral spirits and SAE 30W engine
oil to de-glaze the bores.
(7) The crosshatch angle is a function of drill
speed and how fast the hone is moved vertically (Fig.
47).
(8) Vertical strokes MUST be smooth continuous
passes along the full length of the bore (Fig. 47).(9) Inspect the bore after 10 strokes.
(10) Use a strong solution of hot water and laun-
dry detergent to clean the bores. Clean the cylinder
bores immediately after de-glazing.
(11) Rinse the bores until the detergent is removed
and blow the block dry with compressed air.
(12) Check the bore cleanliness by wiping with a
white, lint free, lightly oiled cloth. If grit residue is
still present, repeat the cleaning process until all res-
idue is removed. Wash the bores and the complete
block assembly with solvent and dry with compressed
air. Place a clean shop towel around the top main
bearing saddle to deflect water and residue from pis-
ton cooling nozzels. Remove directed piston cooling
nozzles if installed.
(13) Be sure to remove the tape covering the lube
holes, rod journals, and piston cooling nozzles after
the cleaning process is complete.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
REPAIR
Cylinder bore(s) can be repaired by one of two
methods:
²Method 1:ÐOver boring and using oversize pis-
tons and rings.
²Method 2:ÐBoring and installing a repair sleeve
to return the bore to standard dimensions.
METHOD 1ÐOVERSIZE BORE
Cylinder bore(s) can be repaired by one of two
methods:
Oversize pistons and rings are available in two
sizes - 0.50 mm (0.0197 inch) and 1.00 mm (0.0393
inch).
Any combination of standard, 0.50 mm (0.0197
inch) or 1.00 mm (0.0393 inch) overbore may be used
in the same engine.
Fig. 45 Stamp Block after Reface
Fig. 46 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
Fig. 47 De-Glazing Drill Speed and Vertical Speed
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 313
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)
CONNECTING RODS
The connecting rods are a split angle design (Fig.
89). They have a pressed-in-place wrist pin bushing
that is lubricated by piston cooling nozzle oil spray.
There are two different types of connecting rods:
machined and fractured split. The main different
between the two styles is the surface finish on the
connecting rod split face.
Machined connecting rods can be identified by a
machined surface at the connecting rod and cap split
face. Machined connecting rods have numbers
stamped on the rod cap and connecting rod near the
parting line. The number stamped on the connecting
rod must match the number stamped on the rod cap
and be installed on the camshaft or intake side of the
engine.
Fractured split connecting rods are first manufac-
tured as a single piece and then fractured into two
pieces. Fractured split connecting rods can be identi-
fied by a rough and irregular surface at the connect-
ing rod split face. To properly assemble the rod cap to
the connecting rod, the bearing tangs on the connect-
ing rod and cap must be located on the same side of
the rod. The long end of the connecting rod must be
assembled on the intake or camshaft side of the
engine.
Measuring methods and specifications are common
between fractured split and machined connecting
rods.
Both fractures split and machined connecting rods
and caps are machined as an assembly and are not
interchangeable. If a connecting rod or cap is dam-
aged, the entire assembly must be replaced.
Machined and fractured split connecting rods cannot
be used in the same engine.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAD GASKET
SELECTION
(1) Measure piston protrusion for all six pistons.
(2) Calculate the average piston protrusion. Maxi-
mum allowable protrusion is 0.516 mm (0.020 inch).
NOTE: There are two different head gaskets avail-
able. One gasket is for Average piston protrusion
less than 0.30 mm (0.011 inch). The other gasket is
for Average piston protrusion greater than 0.30 mm
(0.011 inch)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery cables.
(2) Remove the cylinder head (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the oil pan and suction tube (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove bolts and the block stiffener.(5) Using Miller Tool 7471-B crankshaft barring
tool, rotate the crankshaft so all of the pistons are
below TDC.
(6) Before removing the piston(s) from the bore(s):
(a) Remove any carbon ridge formations or
deposits at the top of the bore with a dull scraper
or soft wire brush.
(b) If cylinder bore wear ridges are found, use a
ridge reamer to cut the ridge from the bore. DO
NOT remove more metal than necessary to remove
the ridge.
(7) Remove the J-jet cooling nozzels, if equipped.
NOTE: If cylinders have ridges, the cylinders are
oversize and will more than likely need boring.
(8) Using a hammer and steel stamp, stamp the
cylinder number in the top of each piston. The front
of the piston is identified by a stamping on the top of
the piston. DO NOT stamp in the outside 5 mm (.197
in.) of the piston diameter. DO NOT stamp over the
piston pin.
(9) Mark the connecting rod and cap with the cor-
responding cylinder numbers.
(10) Remove the connecting rod bolts and rod caps.
Use care so the cylinder bores and connecting rods
are not damaged.
Fig. 89 Connecting Rod
9 - 330 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)
REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(2) Position a transmission jack in place.
(3) Remove support cushion stud nuts (Fig. 110).
(4) Raise rear of transmission and engine
SLIGHTLY.
(5) Remove the bolts holding the support cushion
to the transmission support bracket. Remove the sup-
port cushion.
(6) If necessary, remove the bolts holding the
transmission support bracket to the transmission.
INSTALLATION
(1) If removed, position the transmission support
bracket to the transmission. Install new attaching
bolts and tighten to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position support cushion to transmission sup-
port bracket. Install stud nuts and tighten to 47 N´m
(35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Using the transmission jack, lower the trans-
mission and support cushion onto the crossmember
(Fig. 110).
(4) Install the support cushion bolts and tighten to
47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove the transmission jack.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
NOTE: Refer to (Fig. 111) and (Fig. 112) for circuit
illustrations.
A gear driven gerotor type oil pump is mounted
behind the front gear cover in the lower right portion
on the engine.
OPERATION
A gerotor style oil pump draws oil from the crank-
case through the suction tube and delivers it through
the block where it enters the oil cooler cover and
pressure regulator valve. When oil pressure exceeds
517 kPa (75 PSI), the valve opens exposing the dump
port, which routes excess oil back to the oil pump.
At the same time, oil is directed to a cast in pas-
sage in the oil cooler cover, leading to the oil cooler
element. As the oil travels through the element
plates, it is cooled by engine coolant traveling past
the outside of the plates. It is then routed to the oil
filter head and through a full flow oil filter. If a
plugged filter is encountered, the filter by-pass valve
opens, allowing unfiltered oil to lubricate the engine.
This condition can be avoided by frequent oil and fil-
ter changes, per the maintenance schedules found in
Fig. 110 Engine Rear Support Cushion Assembly
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 337
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL LEVEL
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil,
oil foaming and oil pressure loss can result.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the
engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level.
The acceptable oil level is in the SAFE RANGE on
the engine oil dipstick (Fig. 113).
Unless the engine has exhibited loss of oil pres-
sure, run the engine for about five minutes before
checking oil level. Checking engine oil level of a cold
engine is not accurate.
(1) Position vehicle on level surface.
(2) With engine OFF, allow approximately ten min-
utes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove
engine oil dipstick.
(3) Wipe dipstick clean.
(4) Replace dipstick and verify it is seated in the
tube.
(5) Remove dipstick, with handle held above the
tip, take oil level reading.
(6) Add oil only if level is below the SAFE RANGE
area on the dipstick.
(7) Replace dipstick
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
SERVICE
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
NOTE: Change engine oil and filter at intervals
specified in the owner's manual.
(1) Operate the engine until the water tempera-
ture reaches 60ÉC (140ÉF). Shut the engine off.
(2) Use a container that can hold at least 14 liters
(15 quarts) to hold the used oil. Remove the oil drain
plug and drain the used engine oil into the container.
(3) Always check the condition of the used oil. This
can give you an indication of engine problems that
might exist.
²Thin, black oil indicates fuel dilution.
²Milky discoloration indicates coolant dilution.
(4) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL).
(5) Install new oil filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION).
(6) Clean the drain plug and the sealing surface of
the pan. Check the condition of the threads and seal-
ing surface on the oil pan and drain plug.
(7) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 50
N´m (37 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Use only High-Quality Multi-Viscosity lubricat-
ing oil in the Cummins Turbo Diesel engine. Choose
the correct oil for the operating conditions (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
(9) Fill the engine with the correct grade of new oil
(Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID
CAPACITIES - SPECIFICATIONS).
(10) Start the engine and operate it at idle for sev-
eral minutes. Check for leaks at the filter and drain
plug.
(11) Stop engine. Wait several minutes to allow the
oil to drain back to the pan and check the level
again.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing of used
engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle's
engine.
1 - ROCKER ARM
2 - ROCKER SHAFT
3 - PEDESTAL
4 - FROM MAIN OIL RIFLE
5 - TO VALVE TRAIN
6 - MAIN OIL RIFLE
7 - FROM MAIN OIL RIFLE8 - TO CAMSHAFT
9 - TO PISTON COOLING NOZZLE
10 - FROM OIL COOLER
11 - CRANKSHAFT MAIN JOURNAL
12 - ROD JOURNAL
13 - TO ROD BEARING
14 - MAIN OIL RIFLE
Fig. 113 Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick)
1 - ADD OIL MARK
2 - O-RING
3 - SAFE RANGE
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 341
OIL (Continued)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES/LIFTERS 1. High or low oil level in crankcase 1. Check for correct oil level. Adjust oil
level by draining or adding as needed
2. Thin or diluted oil 2. Change oil. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
3. Low oil pressure 3. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform
oil pressure test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING) for engine oil pressure
test/specifications
4. Dirt in tappets/lash adjusters 4. Clean/replace hydraulic tappets/lash
adjusters
5. Bent push rod(s) 5. Install new push rods
6. Worn rocker arms 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms and
replace worn arms as needed
7. Worn tappets/lash adjusters 7. Install new hydraulic tappets/lash
adjusters
8. Worn valve guides 8. Inspect all valve guides and replace
as necessary
9. Excessive runout of valve seats or
valve faces9. Grind valves and seats
CONNECTING ROD
NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform
oil pressure test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING) engine oil pressure
test/specifications
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL -
STANDARD PROCEDURE) for correct
procedure/engine oil specifications
4. Excessive connecting rod bearing
clearance4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance with plasti-gage. Repair as
necessary
5. Connecting rod journal out of round 5. Replace crankshaft or grind journals
6. Misaligned connecting rods 6. Replace bent connecting rods
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform
oil pressure test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
9 - 356 ENGINE 8.0LDR
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
4. Excessive main bearing clearance 4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing for
excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main journal out of round
or worn6. Grind journals or replace crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or torque converter 7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/flywheel
and bolts for damage. Tighten to correct
torque
LOW OIL PRESSURE 1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit 2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace oil pump assembly.
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity.
6. Excessive bearing clearance 6. Measure bearings for correct
clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck 7. Remove valve to inspect, clean and
reinstall
8. Oil pickup tube loose, broken, bent or
clogged8. Inspect oil pickup tube and pump, and
clean or replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover warped or cracked 9. Install new oil pump
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets 1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery plug or cup plug 4. Remove and reseal threaded plug.
Replace cup style plug
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION OR
SPARK PLUGS OIL
FOULED1. CCV System malfunction 1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL/EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS
- DESCRIPTION) for correct operation
2. Defective valve stem seal(s) 2. Repair or replace seal(s)
3. Worn or broken piston rings 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace
pistons as required
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove 5. Remove rings and de-carbon piston
6. Worn valve guides 6. Inspect/replace valve guides as
necessary
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves7. Remove rings and check ring end gap
and side clearance. Replace if
necessary
DRENGINE 8.0L 9 - 357
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE DIAGNOSIS - LUBRICATION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. 1.
(a) Misaligned or damaged. (a) Replace as necessary.
(b) Loose fasteners, broken or
porous metal parts.(b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary.
3. Crankshaft seal flange.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan.
5.Front cover seal, damaged or
misaligned.5. Replace seal.
6. Scratched or damaged vibration
damper hub.6. Polish or replace damper.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check pump and bearing
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter.
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance. 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Replace oil pump.
9. Oil pickup tube loose or
damaged.9. Replace as necessary.
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK
PLUGS FOULING1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings.
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings.
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace valves.
5. Leaking intake gasket. 5. Replace intake gaskets.
6. Leaking valve guide seals. 6. Replace valve guide seals.
9 - 358 ENGINE 8.0LDR
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)